7 Nights in Vibrant Madrid
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:28 AM
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7 Nights in Vibrant Madrid
Hi everyone,
A "bucket list" wish of mine was to spend 2 months in Europe, the last couple of years we managed 6 weeks at a time but - hard to believe but true! - it STILL wasn't enough time! We had too many 2 night stays and a couple of overnight stays which made the itinerary a little too rushed. This year I wanted to visit Hungary, Austria and Bavaria and the goal was to NOT go crazy and that means long stays in beautiful comfortable apartments in cities for a week at a time, with country breaks and some moving around of no less than 2-3 nights. No one night stands. We ended up in 13 different accommodations in 8 weeks…not bad!
I managed to get Business Class award travel - not into Budapest, but into Madrid! After our week in Madrid we took a cheap Ryanair flight to Budapest.
This was our 4th visit to Madrid, and I'll never understand why some people don't like this wonderful city.
I posted the TR below, and the post with pictures, links, the trip diary and expenses is on http://rebeccasnyder.com/travel/7-ni...ibrant-madrid/ if you want to take a look at it there.
A "bucket list" wish of mine was to spend 2 months in Europe, the last couple of years we managed 6 weeks at a time but - hard to believe but true! - it STILL wasn't enough time! We had too many 2 night stays and a couple of overnight stays which made the itinerary a little too rushed. This year I wanted to visit Hungary, Austria and Bavaria and the goal was to NOT go crazy and that means long stays in beautiful comfortable apartments in cities for a week at a time, with country breaks and some moving around of no less than 2-3 nights. No one night stands. We ended up in 13 different accommodations in 8 weeks…not bad!
I managed to get Business Class award travel - not into Budapest, but into Madrid! After our week in Madrid we took a cheap Ryanair flight to Budapest.
This was our 4th visit to Madrid, and I'll never understand why some people don't like this wonderful city.
I posted the TR below, and the post with pictures, links, the trip diary and expenses is on http://rebeccasnyder.com/travel/7-ni...ibrant-madrid/ if you want to take a look at it there.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:33 AM
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Pintxos, Tapas, City Treks and Late Nights
Don’t you love going back to a much admired city? You’re not in a hurry to see the Top 10 because you’ve already done that. This year our destination was Hungary, Austria and Germany but we started with award flights into Madrid and a week later a cheap flight out to Budapest. Tip: Getting that perfect Business Class award from San Diego to Europe can be tricky, think outside the box and check different cities to fly into. Madrid is a great choice with lots of low cost carriers to all over Europe from Madrid.
Best things about Madrid
Pintxos! Tapas!
Wandering around the city
Worst things about Madrid
The homeless in cardboard boxes in Plaza Major
Would I change anything?
Our flight changed and arrived at 8:00 am – I’d consider renting the apartment the night before.
Madrid Apartment: Santa Anna Downtown Madrid 74m2, 7 nights in a luxurious 1 bedroom penthouse in Plaza Santa Ana. (Airbnb)
Plaza Santa Ana is a perfect location – it seemed that every direction we wanted to go was no more than a 15-20 minute walk away, and one direction we went to almost every night was toward Cava Baja – seeking out Basque-style pintxos. We didn’t have far to look. Cava Baja is well known for it’s tapas bars and Txirimiri at the southern end had some delicious specialties – PLUS our favorites, Solomillo and Foie Planche.
Tip: The Aeropuerto Expres (Airport Express shuttle bus) “Yellow Bus” is easy, comfortable, fast and cheap (5€) to get from Barajas T4 to Atocha Train Terminal. Free WIFI too. Look for it where all the buses stop and just pay the cash to the driver. From Atocha we walked to Plaza Santa Ana.
Walking Tour
Another city, another great Sandeman’s walking tour. Anytime there’s one of these “free” tours (you know it’s for tips, right?) – we’re there. You always learn a lot of history and go some surprising places you wouldn’t have known about on your own. On this tour you end up in the green Plaza de Oriente across from the Royal Palace. And not too far away is another Txirimiri – there are about 4 in Madrid, all serving the same delicious Basque-style pintxos.
Tip: Bring your umbrella! You never know what an April day in Madrid may bring.
Heavenly Cookies
We were walking back from Txirimiri and in the vicinity of the Monasterios de las Descalzas Reales (Convent of Barefoot Royals), I wanted to see the art inside (Rubens, Titian, Murillo) but like many others standing in line we didn’t get in. They’re only open for tours certain hours and the tours are limited to about 20.
So how about another convent? This one not for art but for the special cookies made by the nuns at the Convento de las Carboneros de Corpus Christi around the corner from Plaza Major. When you get there, check the sign on the wall next to the door to make sure you’re within their opening hours, ring the bell and someone tells you to enter. Follow the signs through small halls and a courtyard to the end where there’s turntable window with a box of cookies, not necessarily the cookies you want! You never see anyone, just a list of the cookies and box sizes on the wall. The real mystery is knowing how and what to order, when a nun spoke to us I didn’t quite understand what she said but asked for the almond “pastas de almendra, por favor”, put our 10€ on the turntable and whoosh the turntable spun around, then around again with our cookies. Quite an experience and the cookies were heavenly delicious!
Museums – but not the Big 3
Two of the 3 big museums in Madrid are my favorites – The Prado and Thyseen-Bornmisza – the Reina Sofia not so much. But last time in Madrid we spent a lot of time at The Prado, so this trip we sought out the smaller museums we’ve never been to. First, Museo Cerralbo – this museum was the Marquis Cerralbo’s palace complete with ballroom, art, all kinds of collections. A step back in time to the 19th century and the life of an aristocrat in Madrid.
Great Eats: Casa Mingo makes a great stop and isn’t too far from Museo Cerralbo. Famous for the Asturia style grilled chicken and cider and a nice change from tapas.
Some of the less known museums we visited on this trip are free all the time or have free days, if you can’t take advantage of that the admission price is only a few Euros.
Madrid’s metro system is terrific but we didn’t use it once this trip. Staying in a central location like Plaza Santa Ana made walking to anywhere easy, plus walking to your destination lets you see different parts of Madrid every day. Saturday was our day for the always free Municipal Museum in the Justicia district, with it’s huge scale model of the walled city of Madrid, and the free after 2pm Museo Arqueologico Nacional in the Salamanca. Sunday was the free day for the interesting Sorolla Museum in the Castellana district, the artist Joaquin Sorolla’s studio and home.
Great Eats: Always on the lookout for Basque style pintxos, a short walk from the Sorolla museum is Sagaretxe, a local place serving up some great pintxos with very little English.
Museum’ed Out? Nah
Visiting the little museums is a treat, they don’t take long which leaves plenty of time for pintxos, chocolat con churros, and café breaks. Not having anything else going on we decided to go to the Thyssen-Bornemisza after the Sorrola. Tip: The Thyssen-Bornemisza is free on Mondays between 12:00 and 16:00. Hmmm, didn’t plan that one.
Late Nights in Madrid
Where else do you find traffic jams at 2:00 am? That was our first experience of the nightlife in Madrid, way back in 1996. We loved Madrid for that, the architecture, the world class museums and of course – the FOOD!
This was our 4th time in Madrid and we still love it. Spain and Madrillenos really have a terrific social lifestyle, and with a 9 hour time difference between the Pacific Coast and Central Europe, we were late night non-stop with them at our favorite tapas bars.
Don’t you love going back to a much admired city? You’re not in a hurry to see the Top 10 because you’ve already done that. This year our destination was Hungary, Austria and Germany but we started with award flights into Madrid and a week later a cheap flight out to Budapest. Tip: Getting that perfect Business Class award from San Diego to Europe can be tricky, think outside the box and check different cities to fly into. Madrid is a great choice with lots of low cost carriers to all over Europe from Madrid.
Best things about Madrid
Pintxos! Tapas!
Wandering around the city
Worst things about Madrid
The homeless in cardboard boxes in Plaza Major
Would I change anything?
Our flight changed and arrived at 8:00 am – I’d consider renting the apartment the night before.
Madrid Apartment: Santa Anna Downtown Madrid 74m2, 7 nights in a luxurious 1 bedroom penthouse in Plaza Santa Ana. (Airbnb)
Plaza Santa Ana is a perfect location – it seemed that every direction we wanted to go was no more than a 15-20 minute walk away, and one direction we went to almost every night was toward Cava Baja – seeking out Basque-style pintxos. We didn’t have far to look. Cava Baja is well known for it’s tapas bars and Txirimiri at the southern end had some delicious specialties – PLUS our favorites, Solomillo and Foie Planche.
Tip: The Aeropuerto Expres (Airport Express shuttle bus) “Yellow Bus” is easy, comfortable, fast and cheap (5€) to get from Barajas T4 to Atocha Train Terminal. Free WIFI too. Look for it where all the buses stop and just pay the cash to the driver. From Atocha we walked to Plaza Santa Ana.
Walking Tour
Another city, another great Sandeman’s walking tour. Anytime there’s one of these “free” tours (you know it’s for tips, right?) – we’re there. You always learn a lot of history and go some surprising places you wouldn’t have known about on your own. On this tour you end up in the green Plaza de Oriente across from the Royal Palace. And not too far away is another Txirimiri – there are about 4 in Madrid, all serving the same delicious Basque-style pintxos.
Tip: Bring your umbrella! You never know what an April day in Madrid may bring.
Heavenly Cookies
We were walking back from Txirimiri and in the vicinity of the Monasterios de las Descalzas Reales (Convent of Barefoot Royals), I wanted to see the art inside (Rubens, Titian, Murillo) but like many others standing in line we didn’t get in. They’re only open for tours certain hours and the tours are limited to about 20.
So how about another convent? This one not for art but for the special cookies made by the nuns at the Convento de las Carboneros de Corpus Christi around the corner from Plaza Major. When you get there, check the sign on the wall next to the door to make sure you’re within their opening hours, ring the bell and someone tells you to enter. Follow the signs through small halls and a courtyard to the end where there’s turntable window with a box of cookies, not necessarily the cookies you want! You never see anyone, just a list of the cookies and box sizes on the wall. The real mystery is knowing how and what to order, when a nun spoke to us I didn’t quite understand what she said but asked for the almond “pastas de almendra, por favor”, put our 10€ on the turntable and whoosh the turntable spun around, then around again with our cookies. Quite an experience and the cookies were heavenly delicious!
Museums – but not the Big 3
Two of the 3 big museums in Madrid are my favorites – The Prado and Thyseen-Bornmisza – the Reina Sofia not so much. But last time in Madrid we spent a lot of time at The Prado, so this trip we sought out the smaller museums we’ve never been to. First, Museo Cerralbo – this museum was the Marquis Cerralbo’s palace complete with ballroom, art, all kinds of collections. A step back in time to the 19th century and the life of an aristocrat in Madrid.
Great Eats: Casa Mingo makes a great stop and isn’t too far from Museo Cerralbo. Famous for the Asturia style grilled chicken and cider and a nice change from tapas.
Some of the less known museums we visited on this trip are free all the time or have free days, if you can’t take advantage of that the admission price is only a few Euros.
Madrid’s metro system is terrific but we didn’t use it once this trip. Staying in a central location like Plaza Santa Ana made walking to anywhere easy, plus walking to your destination lets you see different parts of Madrid every day. Saturday was our day for the always free Municipal Museum in the Justicia district, with it’s huge scale model of the walled city of Madrid, and the free after 2pm Museo Arqueologico Nacional in the Salamanca. Sunday was the free day for the interesting Sorolla Museum in the Castellana district, the artist Joaquin Sorolla’s studio and home.
Great Eats: Always on the lookout for Basque style pintxos, a short walk from the Sorolla museum is Sagaretxe, a local place serving up some great pintxos with very little English.
Museum’ed Out? Nah
Visiting the little museums is a treat, they don’t take long which leaves plenty of time for pintxos, chocolat con churros, and café breaks. Not having anything else going on we decided to go to the Thyssen-Bornemisza after the Sorrola. Tip: The Thyssen-Bornemisza is free on Mondays between 12:00 and 16:00. Hmmm, didn’t plan that one.
Late Nights in Madrid
Where else do you find traffic jams at 2:00 am? That was our first experience of the nightlife in Madrid, way back in 1996. We loved Madrid for that, the architecture, the world class museums and of course – the FOOD!
This was our 4th time in Madrid and we still love it. Spain and Madrillenos really have a terrific social lifestyle, and with a 9 hour time difference between the Pacific Coast and Central Europe, we were late night non-stop with them at our favorite tapas bars.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:34 AM
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Leaving Madrid
First time on Ryanair (the world’s most hated airline!) from Madrid Barajas to Budapest – a 3.25 hour flight. The fastest way to get to Barajas from Plaza Santa Ana was a cab for 30€, a good decision after that last late night. The cabs queue up right outside the ME Madrid Reina Victoria hotel, the beautiful lit up facade you admire every night from the apartment.
Tip: Ryanair procedure at the airport is confusing. You MUST FIRST go to a window right next to the security entrance to get your boarding pass stamped, THEN you wait in the long line for the counter agent where you check your bags. When through with those two lines, go to the line at the security entrance next to where you got your boarding pass stamped.
After you’re through security you’ll queue up again in the Priority boarding line if you paid for and selected your seat online (a Premium seat). I think everyone paid for a Premium seat!
Tip: From reading how strict Ryanair was about carry-on bags, I’d paid to check our 2 rolling carry-ons as we were also packing our BIG laptop bags. Lots of people had 2 big carry-ons and breezed right through. Good to know if we take this airline again, which may be likely – we paid a total of $196 for the flight for both of us.
Tip: Make sure you book your flight with a credit card that doesn’t charge transaction fees and select the option NOT to convert Euros to Dollars – the conversion rate Ryanair charges is much higher, and that’s on top of the credit card processing fee.
The Ryanair agents, attendants, and flight were all fine, the seats are narrow and seat backs don’t recline on this no-frills flight but it was only a little over 3 hours and a terrific way to get quickly and cheaply from Madrid to Budapest.
First time on Ryanair (the world’s most hated airline!) from Madrid Barajas to Budapest – a 3.25 hour flight. The fastest way to get to Barajas from Plaza Santa Ana was a cab for 30€, a good decision after that last late night. The cabs queue up right outside the ME Madrid Reina Victoria hotel, the beautiful lit up facade you admire every night from the apartment.
Tip: Ryanair procedure at the airport is confusing. You MUST FIRST go to a window right next to the security entrance to get your boarding pass stamped, THEN you wait in the long line for the counter agent where you check your bags. When through with those two lines, go to the line at the security entrance next to where you got your boarding pass stamped.
After you’re through security you’ll queue up again in the Priority boarding line if you paid for and selected your seat online (a Premium seat). I think everyone paid for a Premium seat!
Tip: From reading how strict Ryanair was about carry-on bags, I’d paid to check our 2 rolling carry-ons as we were also packing our BIG laptop bags. Lots of people had 2 big carry-ons and breezed right through. Good to know if we take this airline again, which may be likely – we paid a total of $196 for the flight for both of us.
Tip: Make sure you book your flight with a credit card that doesn’t charge transaction fees and select the option NOT to convert Euros to Dollars – the conversion rate Ryanair charges is much higher, and that’s on top of the credit card processing fee.
The Ryanair agents, attendants, and flight were all fine, the seats are narrow and seat backs don’t recline on this no-frills flight but it was only a little over 3 hours and a terrific way to get quickly and cheaply from Madrid to Budapest.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:35 AM
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Favorite Pintxos and Tapas Bars
We dropped in at lots of tapas bars in the evenings, a pintxo and a vino here and there – these are our favorites:
Txirimiri – Solomillo and Foie Planche. Calle del Humilladero at the end of Cava Baja, and Calle Ferraz 38. Other locations but we didn’t get to them.
Meson del Champinon – Mushrooms. A classic. Always a good time standing at the bar, never know who’ll you meet.
Casa Revuelta – You’ve never had cod like this before. If they’re open – get some!
Museo del Jamon – Jamon Iberico. Elbow to elbow – strike up a conversation! The location off of Calle Major (Calle Postas), not the one in Plaza Major.
We dropped in at lots of tapas bars in the evenings, a pintxo and a vino here and there – these are our favorites:
Txirimiri – Solomillo and Foie Planche. Calle del Humilladero at the end of Cava Baja, and Calle Ferraz 38. Other locations but we didn’t get to them.
Meson del Champinon – Mushrooms. A classic. Always a good time standing at the bar, never know who’ll you meet.
Casa Revuelta – You’ve never had cod like this before. If they’re open – get some!
Museo del Jamon – Jamon Iberico. Elbow to elbow – strike up a conversation! The location off of Calle Major (Calle Postas), not the one in Plaza Major.
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:39 AM
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Madrid is a beautiful city and a terrific first stop to get over jet lag from the Pacific Coast. Your internal clock is 9 hours behind so you feel like staying up late late late - terrific for tapas bar hopping with the locals!
Jun 19th, 2015, 05:48 AM
#6
Thanks for the report and tips. I'm one of those who didn't care for Madrid on my first visit - much preferred Lisbon - but I'm giving it a second look on my upcoming trip. Just three nights, at the Hotel Europa, though.
Since I saw the palace, the Prado and Reina Sofia and Retiro Park on my first visit I'm also doing smaller museums this trip. Current list is Anthropology if I arrive in time Friday (train from Salamanca), Musee de Traje and/or Musee de America and the Archaeology museum Saturday, Decorative Arts and the Thyssen on Sunday - the Thyssen seems to be the only place on my list open Sunday afternoon. However, I always enjoy house museums, so I'm tempted by your mention of the Museo Cerralbo - unless it's heavily baroque or rococo?
Since I saw the palace, the Prado and Reina Sofia and Retiro Park on my first visit I'm also doing smaller museums this trip. Current list is Anthropology if I arrive in time Friday (train from Salamanca), Musee de Traje and/or Musee de America and the Archaeology museum Saturday, Decorative Arts and the Thyssen on Sunday - the Thyssen seems to be the only place on my list open Sunday afternoon. However, I always enjoy house museums, so I'm tempted by your mention of the Museo Cerralbo - unless it's heavily baroque or rococo?
Jun 19th, 2015, 06:03 AM
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@thursdaysd: Museo Cerralbo is baroque, I have a pic of the ballroom and some others on the website. I really enjoyed it because this is the way the wealthy aristocrats lived and it's a trip back in time! If you don't want to spend your time in that type of palace, you might enjoy the artist Jaoquin Sorolla Museum which is were he lived and worked. I really didn't know about him until visiting the museum but he was quite successful and lots of his art is in the house. It is also open on Sunday and also free on that day. Both of these museums have audioguides. Have fun in Madrid!
Jun 19th, 2015, 08:29 AM
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Thanks for the report.
I love Madrid (, been six times)
Most visitors seldom venture north of Retiro to upscale Salamanca district.
Beautiful architecture, some of the best restaurants, elegant shops, galleries ,few tourists.
Yes, it is not hopping at night but that is not the point.
( I also recommend Sorolla museum)
I understand the attraction of proximity to many bars and restaurants , but there is more to the city than area around Sol, Mayor and Santa Ana.
I love Madrid (, been six times)
Most visitors seldom venture north of Retiro to upscale Salamanca district.
Beautiful architecture, some of the best restaurants, elegant shops, galleries ,few tourists.
Yes, it is not hopping at night but that is not the point.
( I also recommend Sorolla museum)
I understand the attraction of proximity to many bars and restaurants , but there is more to the city than area around Sol, Mayor and Santa Ana.
Jun 19th, 2015, 10:43 AM
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A great museum open on Mondays is Museo Lazaro Galdiano in the Salamanca district. Amazing collections..open all the drawers under the glass cases.. tons more stuff to see.
http://www.flg.es
http://www.flg.es
Jun 19th, 2015, 01:42 PM
#14
Great blog! wonderful post on Madrid, too. I want to go back now to see all the places we didn't get to see (admittedly, this was our first visit) or activities, such as the tour, that we didn't do. Lots for next time!
Thanks for posting. I'm definitely going to look at your blog for lots of other ideas, too.
Thanks for posting. I'm definitely going to look at your blog for lots of other ideas, too.
Jun 19th, 2015, 02:20 PM
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RebeccahS,
Basque names. Txirimiri means "light drizzle", Sagaretxe means "cider house".
As an introduction to the traditional Basque cuisine you can try 'Zerain' for steaks and cider and 'Dantxari' for fish.
http://www.restaurante-vasco-zerain-...english/pages/
http://www.dantxari.com/index_en.htm
Basque names. Txirimiri means "light drizzle", Sagaretxe means "cider house".
As an introduction to the traditional Basque cuisine you can try 'Zerain' for steaks and cider and 'Dantxari' for fish.
http://www.restaurante-vasco-zerain-...english/pages/
http://www.dantxari.com/index_en.htm
Jun 19th, 2015, 02:26 PM
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Lots of tapas in central Madrid
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?m..._4&usp=sharing
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?m..._4&usp=sharing
Jun 19th, 2015, 03:17 PM
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Thanks a lot everyone for your nice comments and taking a look!
@lincasanova - We went to the Museo Lazaro Galdiano back in 2007 and I loved that museum - thanks for reminding me!
@Revulgo - thanks for the Basque name info and I love your google map of places - do you mind if I put a link to it under my "Resources" heading?
@lincasanova - We went to the Museo Lazaro Galdiano back in 2007 and I loved that museum - thanks for reminding me!
@Revulgo - thanks for the Basque name info and I love your google map of places - do you mind if I put a link to it under my "Resources" heading?
Jun 19th, 2015, 07:44 PM
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Hello Rebeccah,
Thanks for your wonderful report. So glad you had fun in one of my favorite cities in Europe! I also dont understand why more people dont make Madrid into a destination, but whatever, their choice. Isnt Casa Revuelta awesome for tajadas de bacalao (cod)?? I have my friend Lincasanova to thank for me going there, superb!!
Thanks for your wonderful report. So glad you had fun in one of my favorite cities in Europe! I also dont understand why more people dont make Madrid into a destination, but whatever, their choice. Isnt Casa Revuelta awesome for tajadas de bacalao (cod)?? I have my friend Lincasanova to thank for me going there, superb!!
