6 Aussies escape to France - Paris, Provence & Dordogne
Mar 29th, 2010, 09:47 PM
#83
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I'm back and determined to finish my trip report even if I stay up all night. Thank you for being patient!.....
We awoke to a crisp autumn morning and drove the short distance to Beynac. As we drove along, the castle was clearly visible on an impregnable cliff edge on the north bank of the Dordogne river. The site of Beynac-et-Cazenac and its castle is undoubtedly one of the finest in France it is so imposing. It was built in the days when the river was the only route open to traders and invaders. A steep lane leads up through the village to the castle and its fortresses it takes about fifteen minutes by foot along the cobblestoned pathways and lanes. It's protected on the landward side by a double wall; elsewhere the sheer drop of almost 200m does the job. There is a flat terrace at the base of the keep, which was added by the English. From the top of the tower there is a breathtaking view over the whole of the valley and the opposing view of Castelnaud.
During the Hundred Years’ War, Beynac Castle housed the French, while the British headquarters were across the water at Chateau Castlenaud. We loved wandering the rooms of the castle with its ancient weaponry, tapestries, artefacts and reading of the history of the battles for ownership of the castle during the Hundred Years War, the area has so much history. There were fierce battles fought between the English and French, as neighbouring castles changed hands frequently. It makes you understand some of the animosity between the French and English people. We virtually had the place to ourselves and stopped at the nearby cafe where the owner was thrilled to discover we were Aussies, as his daughter was living in Australia and happily waved a Wallabies (Rugby Union) scarf.
The day was another beautiful sunny one and we decided to make the short drive beside the Dordogne River to Domme, founded by ‘Philip the Bold’ Even if it wasn't one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’, Domme would still be high on the list of places you must visit in the Dordogne. The stone of the buildings is that lovely golden honey colour that is found in the Dordogne area and it is perched above the river giving it amazing views. There are lots of beautiful houses with cute flower boxes, making it a lovely village to walk around.
Domme still has most of its ancient ramparts including three ancient gates, the best preserved is the Porte des Tours, flanked by two guard towers. These were converted into prisons in 1307 when the Knights Templars were arrested by the king. The tourist office and Marie are located on the Place de la Halle. This is the main part of the town and you can find the entrance to the Grottes de Domme. The stalactite caves (grottes) have been used in the past to shelter the town's inhabitants during the Hundred Years' War. Just above the Place de la Halle is the Belvedere de la Barre, a great viewpoint and the start of the Promenade des Falaises - a short walk leading to a public park. The walk is all high up above the River Dordogne and with 180 degree panoramic views. It was here that we met a man walking 10 dogs! Imagine the poops to pick up!
There are a lot of tourist shops to browse with lovely ceramics, clothing, food, wine and souvenirs to be purchased. It was a glorious sunny Sunday afternoon and this was the busiest village that we visited in the area – although at this time of year, it wasn’t crowded - but I believe it would be very busy in the height of summer.
In many of the French villages we have visited we have seen a cut off tree with flags attached standing in the main square. Apparently it is cut down and put up in May and will remain there until November. I’m not sure of the significance. I’m sure someone on Fodors will know.
We awoke to a crisp autumn morning and drove the short distance to Beynac. As we drove along, the castle was clearly visible on an impregnable cliff edge on the north bank of the Dordogne river. The site of Beynac-et-Cazenac and its castle is undoubtedly one of the finest in France it is so imposing. It was built in the days when the river was the only route open to traders and invaders. A steep lane leads up through the village to the castle and its fortresses it takes about fifteen minutes by foot along the cobblestoned pathways and lanes. It's protected on the landward side by a double wall; elsewhere the sheer drop of almost 200m does the job. There is a flat terrace at the base of the keep, which was added by the English. From the top of the tower there is a breathtaking view over the whole of the valley and the opposing view of Castelnaud.
During the Hundred Years’ War, Beynac Castle housed the French, while the British headquarters were across the water at Chateau Castlenaud. We loved wandering the rooms of the castle with its ancient weaponry, tapestries, artefacts and reading of the history of the battles for ownership of the castle during the Hundred Years War, the area has so much history. There were fierce battles fought between the English and French, as neighbouring castles changed hands frequently. It makes you understand some of the animosity between the French and English people. We virtually had the place to ourselves and stopped at the nearby cafe where the owner was thrilled to discover we were Aussies, as his daughter was living in Australia and happily waved a Wallabies (Rugby Union) scarf.
The day was another beautiful sunny one and we decided to make the short drive beside the Dordogne River to Domme, founded by ‘Philip the Bold’ Even if it wasn't one of ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France’, Domme would still be high on the list of places you must visit in the Dordogne. The stone of the buildings is that lovely golden honey colour that is found in the Dordogne area and it is perched above the river giving it amazing views. There are lots of beautiful houses with cute flower boxes, making it a lovely village to walk around.
Domme still has most of its ancient ramparts including three ancient gates, the best preserved is the Porte des Tours, flanked by two guard towers. These were converted into prisons in 1307 when the Knights Templars were arrested by the king. The tourist office and Marie are located on the Place de la Halle. This is the main part of the town and you can find the entrance to the Grottes de Domme. The stalactite caves (grottes) have been used in the past to shelter the town's inhabitants during the Hundred Years' War. Just above the Place de la Halle is the Belvedere de la Barre, a great viewpoint and the start of the Promenade des Falaises - a short walk leading to a public park. The walk is all high up above the River Dordogne and with 180 degree panoramic views. It was here that we met a man walking 10 dogs! Imagine the poops to pick up!
There are a lot of tourist shops to browse with lovely ceramics, clothing, food, wine and souvenirs to be purchased. It was a glorious sunny Sunday afternoon and this was the busiest village that we visited in the area – although at this time of year, it wasn’t crowded - but I believe it would be very busy in the height of summer.
In many of the French villages we have visited we have seen a cut off tree with flags attached standing in the main square. Apparently it is cut down and put up in May and will remain there until November. I’m not sure of the significance. I’m sure someone on Fodors will know.
Mar 30th, 2010, 07:41 PM
#84
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Next morning we wander down the street to the main part of town via one of the most impressive patisserie shops I have ever seen. The display window is colourful and the produce exquisite, each day there are beautifully decorated flans, cakes, slices and chocolates more tempting than the day before. It is a popular tourist photo stop and a must to go inside and try and choose just one mouth watering morsel or two! to savour.
In the main square is a huge cathedral and today there is a funeral. We wander around the back of the cathedral and listen to the beautiful mournful singing as we take black and white photos of some quaint little cottages. Sarlat is quiet this morning and we enjoy wandering around the little back streets, sitting at a cafe enjoying a coffee and people watching. There are many stores selling foie gras in tins, wines and anything duck related. The wines are different to the ones we sampled in Provence, the Rose a little heavier, but still delicious and the reds with a bit more body......we have tried in vain to purchase French wine in Australia - the choice is soo limited.......... I think I will have to start a French wine importing business and of course I will have to have a fact finding and produce sampling tour to France every year........now we’re talking! - But I digress.
We headed out of town via Beynac past rolling hills and lazy rivers to Monpazier. - When we were first looking at accommodation in the Dordogne area, we contemplated a property at Monpazier; however we are glad we chose Sarlat. Sarlat was much more central to the areas we wanted to explore. - The road to Monpazier meanders past lots of medieval houses, turreted chateaus begging for pictures at every turn, cute farmhouses and lush countryside complete the pastoral scene and not much traffic. Life seems on relax mode here.
Monpazier was founded in 1284 during the reign of the English King, Edward I. Its town plan is perfectly rectangular and develops around the village square, the Place des Cornières, which is itself surrounded by houses built between 1200 and 1600. The eight centuries old bastide has managed to preserve its original character and the market hall is perfectly preserved.
The town is very sleepy and quiet and many of the square’s building are covered with a colourful red creeper vine that gleams in the afternoon sun. There is a beautifully restored clock tower and one of the most interesting shops in the square is a clock maker and restorer who once lived in Paris but now prefers the sleepy town of Monpazier to call home. He has an amazing array of clocks and time pieces either restored or in the process. It is Monday and I’m sure the town would be more livelier on other days. We meet up with an Australian couple push biking around the countryside, I admire their fortitude.
We return via Belves. Belves is a lovely medieval town, with a typical bastide layout and centre, and a preserved 15th century covered market hall. In the centre of the town you can visit some troglodyte dwellings that date from around the 13th century. You can also see the medieval belfry and walls, a 14th century castle, and the city hall. It is famous as being the 'town of seven bell towers'. We wander the streets and alleys. Belves is listed as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France'. But today it is very quiet we couldn’t even find a place to buy a coffee.
We travelled home through tree covered little roads which were kissed by the autumn colours as the fading sun filtered through the falling leaves. We enjoyed meandering along the roads taking the smaller ones to soak in the scenic countryside.
Dinner tonight at Le Bistro de l’Octroi this restaurant sits on a point between 2 streets in Sarlat literally 20 meters from our gite. I had scallops in a light sauce and DH the game casserole both delicious, but the dessert was the masterpiece of the dinner. Called ‘Symphony of Dessert’ consisted of 9 petite desserts, panna cotta, pineapple, citron tart, pear sorbet, chocolate brownie, puree rhubarb, crème brulee, rice pudding and floating meringue.......dessert heaven!
In the main square is a huge cathedral and today there is a funeral. We wander around the back of the cathedral and listen to the beautiful mournful singing as we take black and white photos of some quaint little cottages. Sarlat is quiet this morning and we enjoy wandering around the little back streets, sitting at a cafe enjoying a coffee and people watching. There are many stores selling foie gras in tins, wines and anything duck related. The wines are different to the ones we sampled in Provence, the Rose a little heavier, but still delicious and the reds with a bit more body......we have tried in vain to purchase French wine in Australia - the choice is soo limited.......... I think I will have to start a French wine importing business and of course I will have to have a fact finding and produce sampling tour to France every year........now we’re talking! - But I digress.
We headed out of town via Beynac past rolling hills and lazy rivers to Monpazier. - When we were first looking at accommodation in the Dordogne area, we contemplated a property at Monpazier; however we are glad we chose Sarlat. Sarlat was much more central to the areas we wanted to explore. - The road to Monpazier meanders past lots of medieval houses, turreted chateaus begging for pictures at every turn, cute farmhouses and lush countryside complete the pastoral scene and not much traffic. Life seems on relax mode here.
Monpazier was founded in 1284 during the reign of the English King, Edward I. Its town plan is perfectly rectangular and develops around the village square, the Place des Cornières, which is itself surrounded by houses built between 1200 and 1600. The eight centuries old bastide has managed to preserve its original character and the market hall is perfectly preserved.
The town is very sleepy and quiet and many of the square’s building are covered with a colourful red creeper vine that gleams in the afternoon sun. There is a beautifully restored clock tower and one of the most interesting shops in the square is a clock maker and restorer who once lived in Paris but now prefers the sleepy town of Monpazier to call home. He has an amazing array of clocks and time pieces either restored or in the process. It is Monday and I’m sure the town would be more livelier on other days. We meet up with an Australian couple push biking around the countryside, I admire their fortitude.
We return via Belves. Belves is a lovely medieval town, with a typical bastide layout and centre, and a preserved 15th century covered market hall. In the centre of the town you can visit some troglodyte dwellings that date from around the 13th century. You can also see the medieval belfry and walls, a 14th century castle, and the city hall. It is famous as being the 'town of seven bell towers'. We wander the streets and alleys. Belves is listed as 'one of the most beautiful villages in France'. But today it is very quiet we couldn’t even find a place to buy a coffee.
We travelled home through tree covered little roads which were kissed by the autumn colours as the fading sun filtered through the falling leaves. We enjoyed meandering along the roads taking the smaller ones to soak in the scenic countryside.
Dinner tonight at Le Bistro de l’Octroi this restaurant sits on a point between 2 streets in Sarlat literally 20 meters from our gite. I had scallops in a light sauce and DH the game casserole both delicious, but the dessert was the masterpiece of the dinner. Called ‘Symphony of Dessert’ consisted of 9 petite desserts, panna cotta, pineapple, citron tart, pear sorbet, chocolate brownie, puree rhubarb, crème brulee, rice pudding and floating meringue.......dessert heaven!
May 5th, 2010, 08:19 PM
#85
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An early morning start for our trip to Lascaux 11 it was an easy drive through wooded valleys with very little traffic. We arrived early and waited for the ticket box to open and purchased tickets for the 10.30 English tour no one else was around.
Whilst waiting were wandered up the road watching a lady with a plastic bag gathering lots of walnuts (or was it chestnuts?). At the top of the road is a lovely panoramic view sweeping across the valley looking out to Montignac and the beautiful Vezere River.
Lascaux is the setting of a complex of caves famous for its Paleolithic cave paintings. These paintings are estimated to be 17,000 years old. They primarily consist of realistic images of large animals, most of which are known from fossil evidence to have lived in the area at the time. The cave was discovered on September 12, 1940 by four teenagers, the cave was closed to the public in 1963 in order to preserve the art.
Lascaux II, a replica of two of the cave halls — the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery — was opened in 1983. The caves were amazing although replicas and hard to comprehend that the real caves could have been drawn & coloured 17,000 years ago with such wonderful perspective by the artists. The guides were informative and obviously proud of the work to maintain the integrity of the caves. There was just something missing......................
We drove on to Hautefort had lunch at the local pub, our first French pub meal – very similar to an Aussie pub, we even had a game of pool and were watched by the lunching locals who were amused by our presence. It is the 20th Oct and we see very few tourists up here in this area.
Hautefort Chateau stands in an enviable position overlooking the Vezere Valley and Hautefort village. It is a well preserved and grand chateau with two wings each terminating in a round tower. Apart from the splendours of the building itself, Chateau de Hautefort contains an impressive collection of 17th century paintings and tapestries.
The chateau is surrounded by impressive formal sculptured gardens of intricate designs and vast beautiful grounds. It was a lovely feeling looking out over the rolling French countryside of cute villages and tiny working farms.
Drove home to Sarlat, dinner of cheeses, pizzas and yummy patisseries (oh so many delicious choices we will never have time to savour them all) at home with a well built fire to warm the room.
Whilst waiting were wandered up the road watching a lady with a plastic bag gathering lots of walnuts (or was it chestnuts?). At the top of the road is a lovely panoramic view sweeping across the valley looking out to Montignac and the beautiful Vezere River.
Lascaux is the setting of a complex of caves famous for its Paleolithic cave paintings. These paintings are estimated to be 17,000 years old. They primarily consist of realistic images of large animals, most of which are known from fossil evidence to have lived in the area at the time. The cave was discovered on September 12, 1940 by four teenagers, the cave was closed to the public in 1963 in order to preserve the art.
Lascaux II, a replica of two of the cave halls — the Great Hall of the Bulls and the Painted Gallery — was opened in 1983. The caves were amazing although replicas and hard to comprehend that the real caves could have been drawn & coloured 17,000 years ago with such wonderful perspective by the artists. The guides were informative and obviously proud of the work to maintain the integrity of the caves. There was just something missing......................
We drove on to Hautefort had lunch at the local pub, our first French pub meal – very similar to an Aussie pub, we even had a game of pool and were watched by the lunching locals who were amused by our presence. It is the 20th Oct and we see very few tourists up here in this area.
Hautefort Chateau stands in an enviable position overlooking the Vezere Valley and Hautefort village. It is a well preserved and grand chateau with two wings each terminating in a round tower. Apart from the splendours of the building itself, Chateau de Hautefort contains an impressive collection of 17th century paintings and tapestries.
The chateau is surrounded by impressive formal sculptured gardens of intricate designs and vast beautiful grounds. It was a lovely feeling looking out over the rolling French countryside of cute villages and tiny working farms.
Drove home to Sarlat, dinner of cheeses, pizzas and yummy patisseries (oh so many delicious choices we will never have time to savour them all) at home with a well built fire to warm the room.
May 6th, 2010, 01:58 PM
#86
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We awoke to a little morning drizzle. Our friends decided to spend a quiet day in Sarlat (it is also Wednesday market morning). DH and I decided to take a scenic drive and just meander along the small country laneways in the mist and sprinkling rain. We chose the remote roads for their “cuteness” with a lack of traffic and the promise of a surprise around the corner. We were rewarded with deep green hillsides, fairy-tale houses, small working farms and rows of walnut trees.
Before we knew we had arrived in the village of Les Eyzies and realised we were not far from Font du Gaume.
So we headed out on the off chance that we could catch a tour of the caves. Luck was with us and we were able to book an afternoon English speaking tour. So back to Les Eyzies for lunch at a popular local bistrot, 10E for a 3 course menu – good value!
We toured the Pre-historic museum with a large noisy school group and drove back to Font du Game.
Font du Gaume was very impressive as it is the only original cave that you can visit. Only 200 people per day, we were even more in awe of what we were seeing. It was almost a spiritual experience as I walked through a confined passageway, into a slightly larger chamber, recognized vague shadows on the wall that became more distinct and real as the tour proceeded, as the images became more solid and the significance more real. These images are not primitive; they are the works of great artists that understood perspective, musculature and movement. These artists had the skills, intelligence and emotional sophistication and we felt honoured to be able to view these ancient drawings.
After returning to Sarlat we all went out to dinner to Restaurant de Commerce which had very average food (although there seemed to be a lot of French patrons) and a funny little owner who liked us better when he found out we were Aussies. He insisted on being in our photos and when we look back at them it evokes mixed memories of the night.
It is DH’s birthday tomorrow and I had earlier in the week booked him a surprise balloon flightover the Dordogne River. The weather had turned and was now quite drizzly, that night I had to reluctantly cancel the trip as the weather forecast for tomorrow was not good, and morning fog and drizzle was predicted. My plans of a beautiful sunrise balloon flight over the Dordogne were not to be.
Before we knew we had arrived in the village of Les Eyzies and realised we were not far from Font du Gaume.
So we headed out on the off chance that we could catch a tour of the caves. Luck was with us and we were able to book an afternoon English speaking tour. So back to Les Eyzies for lunch at a popular local bistrot, 10E for a 3 course menu – good value!
We toured the Pre-historic museum with a large noisy school group and drove back to Font du Game.
Font du Gaume was very impressive as it is the only original cave that you can visit. Only 200 people per day, we were even more in awe of what we were seeing. It was almost a spiritual experience as I walked through a confined passageway, into a slightly larger chamber, recognized vague shadows on the wall that became more distinct and real as the tour proceeded, as the images became more solid and the significance more real. These images are not primitive; they are the works of great artists that understood perspective, musculature and movement. These artists had the skills, intelligence and emotional sophistication and we felt honoured to be able to view these ancient drawings.
After returning to Sarlat we all went out to dinner to Restaurant de Commerce which had very average food (although there seemed to be a lot of French patrons) and a funny little owner who liked us better when he found out we were Aussies. He insisted on being in our photos and when we look back at them it evokes mixed memories of the night.
It is DH’s birthday tomorrow and I had earlier in the week booked him a surprise balloon flightover the Dordogne River. The weather had turned and was now quite drizzly, that night I had to reluctantly cancel the trip as the weather forecast for tomorrow was not good, and morning fog and drizzle was predicted. My plans of a beautiful sunrise balloon flight over the Dordogne were not to be.
May 6th, 2010, 04:42 PM
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DH’s birthday, how nice to spend it in France. He had a nice breakfast and some French pressies from all of us.
Our last day in the Dordogne, so we decided to head off for a meandering drive out through Vitrac, the early morning mist started to clear. We crossed the Dordogne River and were rewarded with a different perspective of the landscape as we drove on to Souillac and back via Carlux and stopped in La Roque-Gageac. It is very easy to find your way around this area. Signposting is excellent. You don’t even need maps – just follow the signs.
In a stunning position on the north bank of the Dordogne River, and backed by steep cliffs, with little to suggest that much has changed there in the last 300 years, La Roque-Gageac is truly the perfect picture postcard village.
The golden yellow houses with their traditional perigord roofs, line the river and spread up the hill behind. When we were there in autumn the houses were covered in a most beautiful red creeper which contrasted with the stone houses. Lining the tiny winding, climbing passageways, there is a small Botanical garden. There are exotic tropical plants, bamboos, flowering climbers and tall grasses, from a far warmer climate. The variety of plants is made possible because the cliff behind the village protects it from the cold weather from the north, while the open view to the south ensures it catches plenty of sunshine.
Above this there are steep steps to troglodyte caves with great views. While some of the properties in La Roque Gageac are quite modest, there is also the impressive 19th century Chateau de la Malartrie on the road to Beynac.
Tonight is DH’s birthday dinner an our final dinner in Sarlat after much menu checking we settled on Restaurant ‘Le Petite Manior’ recommended by our gite owners. Set in an old building done up like a Manor House, wide ornate chairs with black velvet covering. The walls were a soft grey and beautiful chandeliers decorated the main room. The menu was French with a hint of oriental (I think the owners wife is Vietnamese). I had trio of foie gras, soo delicious, soo smooth, main was feather light battered prawns with noodles and dessert was a taste tantalising black and white chocolate ganache. The owners dimmed the lights and brought out DH’s dessert adorned with sparklers and the whole restaurant sang Happy Birthday.
A visit to the bathrooms is rewarded with the toilet seat set up like a throne and worthy of a photo shot or two.
We walked home one last time through the romantically lit streets and laneways of Medieval Sarlat with contented smiles on our faces and good food in our stomachs. I had seen the birth of man, in the caves of Font du Gaume, wandered the bastide towns of the medieval era, and visited the massive castles that experienced centuries of warfare. I was glad that we had experienced the Dordogne.
This morning it is an early wake up and final pack, clean and farewell to Sarlat. It is about a 2 ½ hour drive to Bordeaux we set the TomTom and are surprised at the lack of traffic and have an easy drive to Bordeaux. The TomTom comes in handy to navigate to the airport and if we had known it would be this easy, maybe we would have planned a stop along the way. But it is better to be safe than sorry.
2 couples are flying back to Paris by Air France and DH and I are moving on to London via Easyjet – now that is whole new experience!
To summarise; was our trip all we expected – absolutely!
We were so happy with the choices we made.
- Our accommodations were varied and wonderful each offered a different experience in France and better than we could have hoped for.
- All bookings made via the internet went to plan we didn’t have a hiccup with anything
- Our leased Renaults were a dream to drive.
- Each area of France that we visited and explored was beautiful, unique and amazing.
- The French people were lovely, so friendly, proud and full of character.
- We went 1 week in September, 3 weeks in October the weather was brilliant, better than we expected. Sometimes weather can make or break a much anticipated holiday. I would go this time again. There were now crowds at all, anywhere.
- The help from Fodors and Fodorites was immeasurable. I learnt so much through research and helpful hints, which encouraged me to experience so much more.
We had a dream holiday, with lovely memories and a thirst to go back. My love affair with France has begun, I will be back................. How could I keep away!..... Au revoir
Our last day in the Dordogne, so we decided to head off for a meandering drive out through Vitrac, the early morning mist started to clear. We crossed the Dordogne River and were rewarded with a different perspective of the landscape as we drove on to Souillac and back via Carlux and stopped in La Roque-Gageac. It is very easy to find your way around this area. Signposting is excellent. You don’t even need maps – just follow the signs.
In a stunning position on the north bank of the Dordogne River, and backed by steep cliffs, with little to suggest that much has changed there in the last 300 years, La Roque-Gageac is truly the perfect picture postcard village.
The golden yellow houses with their traditional perigord roofs, line the river and spread up the hill behind. When we were there in autumn the houses were covered in a most beautiful red creeper which contrasted with the stone houses. Lining the tiny winding, climbing passageways, there is a small Botanical garden. There are exotic tropical plants, bamboos, flowering climbers and tall grasses, from a far warmer climate. The variety of plants is made possible because the cliff behind the village protects it from the cold weather from the north, while the open view to the south ensures it catches plenty of sunshine.
Above this there are steep steps to troglodyte caves with great views. While some of the properties in La Roque Gageac are quite modest, there is also the impressive 19th century Chateau de la Malartrie on the road to Beynac.
Tonight is DH’s birthday dinner an our final dinner in Sarlat after much menu checking we settled on Restaurant ‘Le Petite Manior’ recommended by our gite owners. Set in an old building done up like a Manor House, wide ornate chairs with black velvet covering. The walls were a soft grey and beautiful chandeliers decorated the main room. The menu was French with a hint of oriental (I think the owners wife is Vietnamese). I had trio of foie gras, soo delicious, soo smooth, main was feather light battered prawns with noodles and dessert was a taste tantalising black and white chocolate ganache. The owners dimmed the lights and brought out DH’s dessert adorned with sparklers and the whole restaurant sang Happy Birthday.
A visit to the bathrooms is rewarded with the toilet seat set up like a throne and worthy of a photo shot or two.
We walked home one last time through the romantically lit streets and laneways of Medieval Sarlat with contented smiles on our faces and good food in our stomachs. I had seen the birth of man, in the caves of Font du Gaume, wandered the bastide towns of the medieval era, and visited the massive castles that experienced centuries of warfare. I was glad that we had experienced the Dordogne.
This morning it is an early wake up and final pack, clean and farewell to Sarlat. It is about a 2 ½ hour drive to Bordeaux we set the TomTom and are surprised at the lack of traffic and have an easy drive to Bordeaux. The TomTom comes in handy to navigate to the airport and if we had known it would be this easy, maybe we would have planned a stop along the way. But it is better to be safe than sorry.
2 couples are flying back to Paris by Air France and DH and I are moving on to London via Easyjet – now that is whole new experience!
To summarise; was our trip all we expected – absolutely!
We were so happy with the choices we made.
- Our accommodations were varied and wonderful each offered a different experience in France and better than we could have hoped for.
- All bookings made via the internet went to plan we didn’t have a hiccup with anything
- Our leased Renaults were a dream to drive.
- Each area of France that we visited and explored was beautiful, unique and amazing.
- The French people were lovely, so friendly, proud and full of character.
- We went 1 week in September, 3 weeks in October the weather was brilliant, better than we expected. Sometimes weather can make or break a much anticipated holiday. I would go this time again. There were now crowds at all, anywhere.
- The help from Fodors and Fodorites was immeasurable. I learnt so much through research and helpful hints, which encouraged me to experience so much more.
We had a dream holiday, with lovely memories and a thirst to go back. My love affair with France has begun, I will be back................. How could I keep away!..... Au revoir
May 7th, 2010, 08:24 AM
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Aussie_10: I have enjoyed your trip report immensely and followed it closely as I am planning a very similar trip next summer.
One little thing concerns me a bit, though, and that was your comment that >>a funny little owner . . . liked us better when he found out we were Aussies.<< My instant thought was, "liked you better as opposed to what?"
While I agree that Aussies are definitely most lovable (what's not to like), I'm wondering if there is some sort of wariness or even hostility to other English speakers. Other threads have led me to believe I need to prepare for some sort of prejudice to lessen any potential shock or hurt. On the one hand, I don't want to be paranoid, but I prefer not to be clueless, either.
Anyway, I'm so happy you had such a lovely experience.
One little thing concerns me a bit, though, and that was your comment that >>a funny little owner . . . liked us better when he found out we were Aussies.<< My instant thought was, "liked you better as opposed to what?"
While I agree that Aussies are definitely most lovable (what's not to like), I'm wondering if there is some sort of wariness or even hostility to other English speakers. Other threads have led me to believe I need to prepare for some sort of prejudice to lessen any potential shock or hurt. On the one hand, I don't want to be paranoid, but I prefer not to be clueless, either.
Anyway, I'm so happy you had such a lovely experience.
May 7th, 2010, 04:25 PM
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Oh Kerouac are you referring to the Rainbow Warrior incident or atom bomb testing in the Pacific?. All is forgiven.
In fact Aussies have embraced a closer bond with the French people as more and more is exposed of our relationships in the First and Second World War. Our recent Anzac Day Ceremonies were not only screened from Gallipoli but from France as well.
France is high on many Aussies "visiting dream wish list".
We did have some lovely experiences meeting and conversing with "the locals".
Sap: I do not wish to offend anyone on this forum. Maybe Aussies were "the flavour of the month" and not as many tour some regions of France, maybe it is a Rugby thing.
I'm sure you will have a great time and will not experience any hostility.
I think in some parts of the Dordogne there is the France v England medieval history of ownership. And there are quite a few Brits who own property in that area. Our gite was owned by Brit expats.
The restaurant owner I mentioned was at first quite indifferent to us, even speaking in French to some other local diners about us. But DH understood what he was saying and said "no no we are Aussies" from then on he was our best friend and brought out free bottles of wine, wanted photos taken with us. We just went with the flow had a good night of laughs with him, but the food still was not that good. I mean who deep frys prawns in their shells?!
But seriously we met many tourists from many countries and enjoyed sharing experiences with them in France. It enriches the memories.
I think the French people have a lovely resonating accent and I loved greeting people with 'Bonjour' and a smile, and they always make eye contact whilst saying it.
What a great first impression!
In fact Aussies have embraced a closer bond with the French people as more and more is exposed of our relationships in the First and Second World War. Our recent Anzac Day Ceremonies were not only screened from Gallipoli but from France as well.
France is high on many Aussies "visiting dream wish list".
We did have some lovely experiences meeting and conversing with "the locals".
Sap: I do not wish to offend anyone on this forum. Maybe Aussies were "the flavour of the month" and not as many tour some regions of France, maybe it is a Rugby thing.
I'm sure you will have a great time and will not experience any hostility.
I think in some parts of the Dordogne there is the France v England medieval history of ownership. And there are quite a few Brits who own property in that area. Our gite was owned by Brit expats.
The restaurant owner I mentioned was at first quite indifferent to us, even speaking in French to some other local diners about us. But DH understood what he was saying and said "no no we are Aussies" from then on he was our best friend and brought out free bottles of wine, wanted photos taken with us. We just went with the flow had a good night of laughs with him, but the food still was not that good. I mean who deep frys prawns in their shells?!
But seriously we met many tourists from many countries and enjoyed sharing experiences with them in France. It enriches the memories.
I think the French people have a lovely resonating accent and I loved greeting people with 'Bonjour' and a smile, and they always make eye contact whilst saying it.
What a great first impression!
May 7th, 2010, 05:15 PM
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>>I think in some parts of the Dordogne there is the France v England medieval history of ownership.<<
(Yes, I imagine so & it would probably be wise to refrain from mentioning to them that I'm descended from Henry & Eleanor - can't imagine that going over too well.)
I'm quite looking forward to the visit and can only hope it comes off half as well as yours. The "bonjour" to strangers thing may be my biggest hurdle as I'm somewhat shy & reserved, though I do think the politeness is a highly admirable cultural trait.
BTW, you are a very good writer and have really offered fab close-ups and slice-of-life anecdotes of your experiences. (I've told the Never/neuf heure story to everyone in my family; it's just so terribly funny!)
(Yes, I imagine so & it would probably be wise to refrain from mentioning to them that I'm descended from Henry & Eleanor - can't imagine that going over too well.)
I'm quite looking forward to the visit and can only hope it comes off half as well as yours. The "bonjour" to strangers thing may be my biggest hurdle as I'm somewhat shy & reserved, though I do think the politeness is a highly admirable cultural trait.
BTW, you are a very good writer and have really offered fab close-ups and slice-of-life anecdotes of your experiences. (I've told the Never/neuf heure story to everyone in my family; it's just so terribly funny!)
May 7th, 2010, 08:39 PM
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Thank you sap
Yes when the 6 of us get together we often retell that story, one of the little gems of cultural experience. I do love the French people. They are passionate.
I have tried to be acurate with my relating of travels and tales, probably why it has been a little long in completion. The longer I left it the more blurred days and villages became. So I would sit with my computer, map and diary to do the writing. I have thoroughly enjoyed reliving the trip and hope it will be helpful to others.
I will look forward to your trip report.
Yes when the 6 of us get together we often retell that story, one of the little gems of cultural experience. I do love the French people. They are passionate.
I have tried to be acurate with my relating of travels and tales, probably why it has been a little long in completion. The longer I left it the more blurred days and villages became. So I would sit with my computer, map and diary to do the writing. I have thoroughly enjoyed reliving the trip and hope it will be helpful to others.
I will look forward to your trip report.
May 9th, 2010, 10:49 PM
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anarweiss if you are looking for an apartment just type in "Paris apartment thread" in the search area.
There are lots of suggestions. BTW we loved our Paris apartment, but 2 teenage boys may not want to share a double bed
There are lots of suggestions. BTW we loved our Paris apartment, but 2 teenage boys may not want to share a double bed
Jun 1st, 2010, 07:02 AM
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The tree with the flags on you saw is placed in celebration of the election of a new mayor and his councillors (adjoints). If the commune is small (so only has a few councillors) then there will be one 'pole' with a flag for each adjoint(e) plus one for the Maire which will be placed outside the Mairie. However, in some communes the poles are planted individually - one at the home of the Maire and one at the home of each new adjoint(e). The 'planting of each the pole' (at least in our commune) is usually accompanied by fireworks, drinks and food and the ceremonies often (in good French tradition) end with a party. (Some pictures of our local ceremonies (in the Dordogne - Perigord Noir) here: http://www.facebook.com/?sk=media#!/...1&id=606966780)
Jun 4th, 2010, 12:49 PM
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Aussie_10 -- thank you so much for your trip report. We are doing a similar trip, also visiting Provence & the Dordogne as well as Languedoc, this coming Sept/Oct -- so I just hope we have as good weather as you had. I plan to print out your report and use it has one of our travel guides for restaurant suggestions & not-to-be-missed sights.
Jun 5th, 2010, 04:43 AM
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Oh how I wish I was going back this Sept/Oct!
I'm sure you will have a fantastic time and yes I think weather wise it is a great time in France.
We have a digital photo frame on my kitchen window and I watch our photos go by and reminisce. We were only commenting today how great a time we had.
I hope my trip report helps you I enjoyed recalling the memories.
I'll look forward to yours
I'm sure you will have a fantastic time and yes I think weather wise it is a great time in France.
We have a digital photo frame on my kitchen window and I watch our photos go by and reminisce. We were only commenting today how great a time we had.
I hope my trip report helps you I enjoyed recalling the memories.
I'll look forward to yours
Jun 5th, 2010, 10:15 AM
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You know, aussie_10, I simply have to say once again how entertaining this trip report is. I like your style of writing so much that I want you to take another trip again soon, so you can tell another story! (Should we set up a "Send Aussie to Europe" fund?)
