Sidny

I've been spinning my wheels for several hours now doing internet research. Thought it might be a better use of my time to get some basic advice from the experts!

My basic parameters are: leaving Paris on the morning of Mon., March 9th, and need to meet a friend in Prague on Sat., March 14th in the afternoon. I'm traveling on a 2-month consecutive day Eurail pass, so want to make use of that rather than flying. Looking through the basic Eurail timetable book that came with my pass, it looks like getting to Prague will be a 2-day affair, so I'm tentatively planning to travel from Switzerland to Munich on Fri 3/13, then continuing on to Prague on the morning of Sat 3/14 (although I'm certainly open to a better suggestion).

So, assuming I'm in Switz from the afternoon of the 9th through the morning of the 13th (3 full days, 4 nights), can anyone help me with suggested itineraries? I'm not a skier (gave up my extremely amateur status after that rash of trees attacking celebrities several years back). I'd love to do some walking, (not hiking, as I don't have the footwear for it), and take some pictures of really big mountains. Had originally planned to do the BO, but it doesn't look like I have the time for that, as it turns out. But if I'm wrong will happily be corrected.

I will have been in Paris for 3 weeks, so wouldn't mind skipping some of the larger cities in favor of smaller towns. From preliminary research I seem to be less interested in Zurich, and intrigued by Bern and Lucerne. Also many of the smaller towns that at this time of year are basically ski resort towns (is it worthless visiting these if I'm not skiing)? I've never been to Switz, so anything would be new to me.

As always, thanks in advance for your advice!

swandav2000

Hi Sidny,

I have a few thoughts --

First, if you really don't have the footware for hiking trails, I'm afraid even the gentle walking trails won't be fun for you. They are kept clear of piles of snow throughout the winter, but naturally there is some ice in the shade, lots of melting snow, and lots of muddy puddles. You really should take some sturdy, waterproof shoes so that you're not miserable.

I do think you have time for the villages of the Berner Oberland; after all, they are only about an hour from Bern, so if you were considering Bern, then you should also consider the villages. I think especially the car-free ones have such a unique atmosphere and situation that you would really enjoy your stay there. Again, the villages would seem to be especially suited for you as you are in favor of the smaller towns.

No, it's not at all worthless to stay in a ski resort if you don't ski -- believe me, you will not be alone!! There are many, many family members who do not ski who will be around you as you walk or hike or day-trip, and lots of skiers (like me) take a day off for a nice walk.

You can always go down and see Bern as a day-trip or enroute (the TGV from Paris goes right to Bern, so you can stop for a few hours to see the city).

For your further research, here's a link to the Swiss rail site, which will give you great, detailed information on the schedules and fares for the trains:

www.rail.ch

You'll find a lot of information, and lots of trains, that isn't in the booklet.

Have fun!

s

Sidny

swandav2000--Thanks for the information, and advice on shoes. I'm still not quite clear on the BO (and will review the website you referred me to in more detail), but would you suggest I do the BO villages as a series of day trips from my base in Bern, or move each day from village to village (or is there a better base than Bern)? I kind of hate the idea of a different hotel each night, but if I'm not going to have trouble finding a room each night, I could do it. Sorry to ask what might seem to be dumb questions, but I'm just not "getting it" yet. Thanks!

swandav2000

Hi again,

No, not a different base every night; I'm with you there!

I meant to say, use one of the villages as your base, not Bern. I just think these villages, particularly the car-free ones, are very special and well worth using as a base. I would do Bern as a day-trip.

You can take a look at this site to get oriented:

www.myjungfrau.ch

Have fun!

s

Sidny

swandav2000--that jungfrau website was great! It definitely helped me understand the area better. I highly recommend it for anyone interested in that area at any time of year.

In fact, after looking at the maps and some of the webcams, it made me realize that I'm not really prepared for that area at this time of year (I've packed lightly for a 2 month trip and tried to go middle of the road for weather from London to Rome). So I'm thinking I'll save the BO for another trip--not to mention it's my understanding that the Eurail pass doesn't cover the trains in that area.

So, guess I'm back to cities more like Bern, Lucerne, Lausanne. Anyone have other suggestions, particularly for smaller towns? And any comments on the eventual travel from Switzerland to Prague? Thanks to all.

Sidny

ttt

suze

Lausanne(!) it's easy to get to by train from Paris, has a lovely setting on Lac Leman, should have somewhat milder weather as it is at sealevel than up in the mountains, no skiing involved, the towns next door of Vevey and Montreux are both great oo.

Sidny

Thanks Suze! Was just reading about Lausanne and had decided it would be my first stop, so glad to get some confirmation of that. The description I was reading had me at "the San Francisco of Switzerland".

suze

I have friends living in Vevey and Montreux so have been to that area 5 trips to date. It's absolutely gorgeous. It's not in the Alps or anything, but a beautiful setting on the lake, with the mountains in the distance.

Lausanne is a fairly good-sized city, Vevey and Montreux smaller. All easily reached and right on the train route.

Sidny

Suze, given your experience in the area, any suggestions for hotels or areas for hotels? In initial searching it seems rooms are not plentiful for next week, or cheap. If you have any tips on areas to avoid, I'll take that into consideration. It looks like with my last minute plans I may end up with not a great hotel, but that's okay. Hoping to stay around $100/night.

swandav2000

Hi again,

Like suze, I have personal attachments to this region; I went to school there (a lifetime ago!) and have visited many times.

Is that $100/night for a single or a double? Here are some thoughts until suze can get back to this thread:

Hotel Masson (www.hotelmasson.ch), which sits outside of town in the suburb of Territet. Its range says that rates run 100-200 chf. It's easy to get to on foot along the glorious flowered promenade (maybe 30-40 minutes) or by bus. You'll get a Riviera Card to give you free use of the city's busses.

Hotel Tralala (www.tralalahotel.ch), uphill in the old town. I stayed here under the old management when it was the Auberge des Planches, so can't comment on current decor or service. The location is not ideal -- no lakeviews at all, and quite a challenging walk uphill (and I'm in pretty good shape). But the price was right, 99 chf/night for a single.

If you would also consider staying in Vevey, a more residential and slightly less touristy town, you might cosider staying in the Hotel Negociants, which a friend of mind enjoyed. It's well located near the train station, but it does sit over a popular restaurant so could be noisy.

Anyway, here are my "reviews" (w/photos) of things to do along the lake:

Montreux old town
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html

Lavaux
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html

Promenade Fleuri
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...reux_Vaud.html

Morges
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...rges_Vaud.html

Gruyeres
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR..._Fribourg.html

Saanen
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...wiss_Alps.html


Note though that the vineyards of the Lavaux will not be pretty in March!

Have fun!

s

Sidny

Wonderful info, thanks! I'll read more and research websites later.

suze

In Vevey, www.hotelnegociants.ch or www.hotelgeneve.ch or the hostel which has some private rooms www.rivieralodge.ch Any of these would be my first choice because I love Vevey best.

In Montreux, www.montreux.ch/helvetie

In Lausanne, www.elite-lausanne.ch

Sidny

Thanks again to both suze and swandav2000 for your tips and info. Just a quick update about how things turned out... I decided to head to Lausanne and had trouble finding a hotel that was available, so ended up staying in Vevey 2 nights at the Hotel Negociants (single 117chf/night w/ breakfast included). It was fine, but in retrospect I would have stayed elsewhere (different town and hotel). Vevey is very nice and has beautiful vistas of Lake Geneva and the mountains, and I would imagine it's a virtual paradise in nice weather, but at this time of the year it's pretty dead, and I wasn't even looking for nightlife (I know, that's what I get for traveling in March). I would look for another hotel if staying in Vevey again, but would stay at HN if it was the only hotel available at the right price. It was clean and offered free wi-fi, but the room was stark, not warm at all (not to mention the tp was like sandpaper). I described it to one friend as Motel 6 meets Ikea. I walked down (over, up?) to Montreaux one day, which was a great walk mostly along the lake. The best part of Vevey (again, only at this time of year), was the tip I got at the tourist office when I asked about thermal baths in the area, and Lavey les Bains was suggested. I'll write a separate post on that, but I loved it and spent my 3rd night there at the Grand Hotel des Bains (single 169chf/night w breakfast and free admission to baths). The 4th night was spent at Hotel Nydeck in Bern (single 110chf). Great location at the tip of old town, just across the river from the bear pits (which are being expanded thankfully), and the TI. Small hotel with about 15 rooms just over a cafe/bar. Not even as nice as HN, but b/c of location and price I thought it was a good deal.

I ended up taking the night train from Basel to Prague, my first couchette experience. I'm glad I didn't mess with overnighting in Munich. I got to enjoy the whole day in Bern before hopping a 50-minute train to Basel, then onto CNL train to wake up in Prague (technically I think I woke up just before Dresden).

Couple of thoughts on Switzerland...I was surprised that smoking is allowed indoors. I never would have predicted that I would associate the smell of a dirty ashtry with Switzerland. My hotel rooms in Vevey and Bern both had a faint smell, even though smoking wasn't allowed in the rooms. But both hotels had cafes on the bottom floors so I think the smoke just seeped through the floors. Loved the trains, no reservations needed just hopped on whatever train I wanted (exception being the CNL and I was only on a few intercity trains, not the Glacier Express, etc.) Lastly, it was a trip to leave Paris after several weeks, go to Lausanne and keep speaking French, then head one hour north to Bern and have everyone speaking German (and French, and Italian...) The Swiss people I encountered were all very nice, easy country to travel in, even being completely unprepared. I hope to be back some day on a much better planned trip (which will undoubtedly include a return to Lavey les Bains for a night or two)!!

simpsonc510

I go to both Lucerne and Lausanne annually. For me, Lucerne wins, hands down. Next time you go to Switzerland, give it a try.

I'll be back in Lucerne for about a week, coming up in just a couple of weeks. I'm always anxious to get back. Lausanne will be in December again.