We have 6 nights in Provence planned, 4 nights in St. Remy and 2 nights in the Luberon. Where should we go? What would give us the best Provence experience? We are not the type of travelers than can squeeze 5 things in one day. We prefer to rise late and do things leisurely. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Right now we're thinking Les Baux, Arles, Aix when we are in St. Remy, but have no fixed ideas for the Luberon.

Yep. If you're going to St Remy first, it's fine that you have a plan. Plus you'll pick up your rythm for your days and nights. Let yourself relax and enjoy the Luberon. You'll find plenty enough to do (or not!)

With 4 nights in St-Rémy you can visit Arles, the Pont du Gard, Uzès, Les Baux and the Alpilles, and even the Camargue. Fontvielle is also a charming small town to visit in the area, and you might even run up to Tarascon. Aix is a bit out of the way for your two destinations; so unless there's some particular reason you want to go there, I'd skip it in favor of more time in the Luberon, or even St-Rémy.

Rick Steves does not recommend the Camargue highly. Do you agree with his assessments. Is Aix not worth vsiting? We have no particular reason for seeing Aix, except hearing about it for years?

We just didn't find Aix all that interesting, but there are people who love the town. I suppose we just found other places more interesting, of which the Camargue was one. I'm glad Rick Steves doesn't recommend it so it will stay wild and unswamped with tourists.

annetti, in St. Remy we loved Glanum, the van Gogh asylum and just strolling in the town. I'd second Underhill's recommendation for the Pont du Gard and Les Baux. For the Luberon, we stayed in Bonnieux and really enjoyed the small bread museum in town and the village of Rousillon. We liked Aix but not nearly as much as some of the smaller towns. I think I'd need a couple of days in Aix to get a good sense of the place. Good luck.

I'm glad Rick Steves doesn't love one of my favorite places, The Camargue.
I was worried it would be over run after the film, A man and a woman came out but I had nothing to fear, we can still drive slowly to spot the pink flamingos and wild white horses and black bulls.

Here's a good link for Roussillon:

http://www.beyond.fr/villages/roussillon.html

We also enjoyed our drive up Mont Ventoux (a little scary at times).

In the Luberon, I love Lourmarin.
Here's a beautiful site for you:
www.2docstock.com/provence

1. If you are in St Remy you must take a trip up into the Alpilles, the wild empty hills south of town. Eygalieres is the best known village.

2. Recalling Pont du Gard before the terrible flood of a few years ago, I find it ruined now. Not the bridge itself of course but the setting. The flood waters scraped away much of the shoreline. No doubt the enterprising French authorities will "reamenage" the site so it's even better than before -- until then, I can't enjoy it. But if you go, take the Uzes road 5 km north and have a glance at the roadside Chateau de Castille. A noble family spent a fortune in the mid-18th C. building curving columned wings to the house -- the money ran out or the revolution came before the work was done and the result is a grandiose ruin, flanking the relatively small chateau at the heart of the complex.

Art lovers will know Castille as the home of a rebarbative millionaire, the Australo-English connoisseur and collector Douglas Cooper. Cooper and his lover, Picasso biographer John Richardson, lived there in the 50s and entertained Picasso and all the beau monde of the day.

tedgale, if you haven't read it, you are in for a treat: John Richardson's "Sorcerers Apprentice"It covers the time in Provence with Picasso.

Msg RE Sorcerer's Apprentice, recommended above by cigalechanta: Great tip: Wdn't that be great reading on that train from Spain to Perpignan? Look on abebooks.com for the copy nearest you.

Cigalechanta: Am intrigued by your compound name -- As the verb is in the past tense, I wondered if name is from a quotation...

Try to visit the Abbeye de Senanque near Gordes. It has the most spectacular lavender fields ever and is a lovely, quiet place even if the lavender is not blooming. If you have the time, stay for vespers.

annetti,
Mt. Ventoux's major attraction is the Hang Gliders, the panorama, the drive up (being careful of bicycles) and the grassy area to have some wine, cheese, fruit and sausage. You may also want to look into visiting the Ardeche. In Provence Uzes is a great town with one of the best markets. I also loved the Camargue and the Sea. I can't figure out why Rick would pan it. He's probably not "sun" tolerant. My suggestions aren't very leisurely however because they would mean driving but would give you a "heads up" as to what to expect.

A drive up and through the Ardèche Gorge would be a marvelous day-trip, especially if you can fit in the Aven d'Orgnac: a really magnificent cavern.

Just hanging around St. Remy would be fine with me. Hope you are there for the Wednesday market day. Great place to buy fabric, herbs, tablecloths etc. St. Remy has wonderful restaurants, shops, walks thru narrow curved streets. Enjoy.
Les Baux is too touriesty.
How about Avignon

I like the idea of lazing around St. Remy. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I think we'll hold off from Aix on this trip. BTW I read that St. Remy became popular a few yrs back when Princess Caroline (of Monaco fame) moved there. I did not realize it was so trendy. Is that still the case? I hope not.

I hope you get an explanation, on this thread, of St Remy charms and the mysterious cachet it holds for its rich and choosy residents and many Fodorites.

I had long been familiar with the immediate environs -- Les Baux etc -- and, knowing the town's reputation, chose St Remy for a base for a few days early last summer. I found the town and its restaurants quite average -- though the "average" in that part of Provence is remarkably high, of course. And the driving was hellish.

When we picked St. Remy, we did not know it was a "trendy" spot, nor did we think the driving would be "hellish." Were you there on a holiday weekend or is that typical? We picked SR because we thought driving in a small town would be easier than in a large city like Arles NOT harder. Comments appreciated on the driving situation there? Thanks.

I drive around the St-Rémy area with some regularity and would never call it "hellish." In fact, it's a piece of cake, though on market day (Wednesday) it's crowded - but so is every market day in every French town.
That said, although I like St-Rémy well enough and appreciate its historical offerings, I've never understood why so many people seem to revere it. It strikes me as a fairly average provençal town.