4 Days in Rome - a brief overview
May 30th, 2009, 03:25 AM
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4 Days in Rome - a brief overview
My husband & I were in Rome for a brief visit (4/29 – 5/4/09). I have fodorites to thank for a lot of the information I got during the planning phase that made it such great trip.
In the spirit of returning the favor I’m going to write a little trip report – or expand on the post I did the other day -- but I feel like there’s already so much great Rome info here that I hope it’s not too repetitive.
We had an uneventful but sleepless flight direct from Philadelphia to Rome and were met at FCO airport by a driver from RomeCabs. It was nice to have him waiting for us to whisk us off into his Mercedes and through the countryside. I’m sure a taxi at the airport would be cheaper but it just felt nice to have a ride set up ahead of time and not have to deal with whatever hassle might be involved. We used them for another ride and had the same very professional, reliable service. I highly recommend them.
Our B&B in Trastevere, the Arco del Lauro, was wonderful. Nothing fancy, very simple and minimalist. I had read good reviews here and they were accurate. The owner was prompt and helpful in her replies to my emails. We were able to book a year ahead and lock in at that current room rate. The common area is just a tiny room with a computer (free internet access) and a fridge that is stocked with yogurt, water, juices, and lemoncello. Our room was a nice size, had a large bed, a good size bathroom, and flat-screen TV. Everything was spotless. We were on the ground floor and at the front so I’m not sure if there are quieter rooms at the back but we didn’t have any issues with noise at night. During the day there would be a certain amount of traffic (obnoxious sounding scooters) going by the window but at night there was no traffic and we slept well.
The breakfast is served at a small café around the corner – you get a ticket to take to them – coffee & a (huge) croissant of your choice.
Daniela was working the desk while we were there and was very sweet and helpful. She booked restaurant reservations for us 2 nights and made recommendations for other places.
Trastevere is a very authentic-feeling, not so touristy neighborhood. We enjoyed being able to come back after long days in the thick of the tourist frenzy to our quiet home away from home. There are several beautiful churches and other sites to see there and also a lot of good restaurants & shops – our B&B was not quite in the heart of that area so we were even more removed and quiet. Although apart from the heart of Rome, everything is within walking distance and there is a tram/bus stop quite close to the B&B.
We were able to walk everywhere – except to the Galleria Borghese and Vatican – at which we had early reservations so we splurged and took taxis. An example – the Pantheon is a 15-20 minute walk.
On the day we arrived it was too early to get into our room. We left our luggage and toured around Trastevere then had lunch where I had my first experience with ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do.’ I asked for our check while my husband was still eating so we could pay & be ready to move on quickly and he did not like that. He ignored me, waited until DH was finished, then brought it over and said “NOW you can have.” Strike one for the impatient American!
After getting settled in our room we headed back out and across the Tiber to explore. We had a 1:30 reservation for a walking tour so we didn’t have much time but we were able to go to the Pantheon and also check out the view from atop the Victor Emmanuelle monument. Stunning views over the Forum and the beautiful rooftops of the city.
Our walking tour was of the Colosseum and Forum with Icon which I had booked online. We had only one other couple in the group and really enjoyed the guide. She brought it all to life. Not too dry or overly scholarly but really quite thorough, not Rome for Dummies. The tour lasted 3 hours. At this point we had been awake for 36 hrs but somehow the excitement of being in such an amazing place gives you enough energy to keep moving. Our entrance ticket was good for 2 days and also included the Palatine so we intended to hit that the next day but never made it. If I had it to do over I’d time it so that we could see all 3 on the same day.
We walked back to Trastevere and had time to unpack and chill out for a bit before our 8:00 dinner reservation at Da Enzo which Daniela had set up for us. Wow – great meal. Teeny restaurant, maybe 15 seats? Definitely recommend & wish we had gone back there again.
In the spirit of returning the favor I’m going to write a little trip report – or expand on the post I did the other day -- but I feel like there’s already so much great Rome info here that I hope it’s not too repetitive.
We had an uneventful but sleepless flight direct from Philadelphia to Rome and were met at FCO airport by a driver from RomeCabs. It was nice to have him waiting for us to whisk us off into his Mercedes and through the countryside. I’m sure a taxi at the airport would be cheaper but it just felt nice to have a ride set up ahead of time and not have to deal with whatever hassle might be involved. We used them for another ride and had the same very professional, reliable service. I highly recommend them.
Our B&B in Trastevere, the Arco del Lauro, was wonderful. Nothing fancy, very simple and minimalist. I had read good reviews here and they were accurate. The owner was prompt and helpful in her replies to my emails. We were able to book a year ahead and lock in at that current room rate. The common area is just a tiny room with a computer (free internet access) and a fridge that is stocked with yogurt, water, juices, and lemoncello. Our room was a nice size, had a large bed, a good size bathroom, and flat-screen TV. Everything was spotless. We were on the ground floor and at the front so I’m not sure if there are quieter rooms at the back but we didn’t have any issues with noise at night. During the day there would be a certain amount of traffic (obnoxious sounding scooters) going by the window but at night there was no traffic and we slept well.
The breakfast is served at a small café around the corner – you get a ticket to take to them – coffee & a (huge) croissant of your choice.
Daniela was working the desk while we were there and was very sweet and helpful. She booked restaurant reservations for us 2 nights and made recommendations for other places.
Trastevere is a very authentic-feeling, not so touristy neighborhood. We enjoyed being able to come back after long days in the thick of the tourist frenzy to our quiet home away from home. There are several beautiful churches and other sites to see there and also a lot of good restaurants & shops – our B&B was not quite in the heart of that area so we were even more removed and quiet. Although apart from the heart of Rome, everything is within walking distance and there is a tram/bus stop quite close to the B&B.
We were able to walk everywhere – except to the Galleria Borghese and Vatican – at which we had early reservations so we splurged and took taxis. An example – the Pantheon is a 15-20 minute walk.
On the day we arrived it was too early to get into our room. We left our luggage and toured around Trastevere then had lunch where I had my first experience with ‘when in Rome, do as the Romans do.’ I asked for our check while my husband was still eating so we could pay & be ready to move on quickly and he did not like that. He ignored me, waited until DH was finished, then brought it over and said “NOW you can have.” Strike one for the impatient American!
After getting settled in our room we headed back out and across the Tiber to explore. We had a 1:30 reservation for a walking tour so we didn’t have much time but we were able to go to the Pantheon and also check out the view from atop the Victor Emmanuelle monument. Stunning views over the Forum and the beautiful rooftops of the city.
Our walking tour was of the Colosseum and Forum with Icon which I had booked online. We had only one other couple in the group and really enjoyed the guide. She brought it all to life. Not too dry or overly scholarly but really quite thorough, not Rome for Dummies. The tour lasted 3 hours. At this point we had been awake for 36 hrs but somehow the excitement of being in such an amazing place gives you enough energy to keep moving. Our entrance ticket was good for 2 days and also included the Palatine so we intended to hit that the next day but never made it. If I had it to do over I’d time it so that we could see all 3 on the same day.
We walked back to Trastevere and had time to unpack and chill out for a bit before our 8:00 dinner reservation at Da Enzo which Daniela had set up for us. Wow – great meal. Teeny restaurant, maybe 15 seats? Definitely recommend & wish we had gone back there again.
May 30th, 2009, 03:28 AM
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Day two – Friday, May 1, was Labor Day and almost everything was closed. I knew that ahead of time so had planned on doing our own walking tour of the outdoor ‘must-sees’ – piazzas, fountains, obelisks. The weather was perfect – sunny & 70 – and we walked all day and covered a huge area. Walked through Campo de’ Fiori – the outdoor market was open but starting to shut down by the time we got there (slept a little late that day) then to the Piazza Navona. Every street along the way was gorgeous – the old buildings, cobblestones, fountains, climbing ivy. And every other corner has a church more beautiful than the last. So much to see just by poking around the different neighborhoods.
After hanging out in P. Navona and doing some serious people-watching we headed to the Trevi Fountain. It was a mob scene and we weren’t able to get close enough to throw our coins in but knew we’d check it out again. From there we made our way to the Spanish Steps. Early May was the perfect time to see the gorgeous azaleas blooming along the steps. There were tons of people and we enjoyed sitting high up on the steps and watching. Lots of high school groups – maybe class trips and also a wedding party having their pictures done. They got a huge reaction from the crowds and took lots of shots with them – getting hugs, etc. The bride looked a tad overwhelmed and the bottom of her dress was no longer white, but, wow, what cool & unique wedding pictures they’ll have.
The big stores like Gucci and Prada along the Via Condotti were closed for the holiday but the streets were packed with people. It was fun window shopping as we walked by without the temptation of going in and doing serious c/c damage.
We criss-crossed the city on our walk back to Trastevere and had another great dinner there (forget the restaurant name).
After hanging out in P. Navona and doing some serious people-watching we headed to the Trevi Fountain. It was a mob scene and we weren’t able to get close enough to throw our coins in but knew we’d check it out again. From there we made our way to the Spanish Steps. Early May was the perfect time to see the gorgeous azaleas blooming along the steps. There were tons of people and we enjoyed sitting high up on the steps and watching. Lots of high school groups – maybe class trips and also a wedding party having their pictures done. They got a huge reaction from the crowds and took lots of shots with them – getting hugs, etc. The bride looked a tad overwhelmed and the bottom of her dress was no longer white, but, wow, what cool & unique wedding pictures they’ll have.
The big stores like Gucci and Prada along the Via Condotti were closed for the holiday but the streets were packed with people. It was fun window shopping as we walked by without the temptation of going in and doing serious c/c damage.
We criss-crossed the city on our walk back to Trastevere and had another great dinner there (forget the restaurant name).
May 30th, 2009, 03:29 AM
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Day three: Saturday – had a tour scheduled with myvaticantour for 9:00 so we taxied up to the Vatican. The group was relatively small (16) and used headphones so we could always hear our guide. The Vatican was extremely crowded, though, maybe because of the holiday, and it was hard to enjoy. Literally, we were elbow-to-elbow as we made our way through the museum. I wished that we had done the Vatican by ourselves because our guide went into a lot of detail about the meaning of different paintings and then would zoom through or past whole rooms so I didn’t get to spend time the way I would’ve wanted. However, we did get to skip the line to get in so that’s one good reason to book a tour. When we got there before 9 the line was already very long and only creeping. If I go back I’ll look into one of the tours at night when you’re there alone – it’s probably worth the expense.
From the Vatican we crossed the bridge to the Castel Sant’ Angelo. Very cool. Spent an hour or so exploring the old castle and the fabulous views from the top.
Walking from the castle back to P. Navona we went through a charming neighborhood of cool stores and little sidewalk bistros. I believe a lot of the restaurants were along the Via de Governo Vecchio. We wanted to eat dinner there but it was too early and by dinner time we were over near the Pantheon so we chose one of the restaurants on the P. Rotunda and ate there. Tourist prices, so not inexpensive but the food was good if not amazing and dining a stone’s throw from the Pantheon: priceless.
From the Vatican we crossed the bridge to the Castel Sant’ Angelo. Very cool. Spent an hour or so exploring the old castle and the fabulous views from the top.
Walking from the castle back to P. Navona we went through a charming neighborhood of cool stores and little sidewalk bistros. I believe a lot of the restaurants were along the Via de Governo Vecchio. We wanted to eat dinner there but it was too early and by dinner time we were over near the Pantheon so we chose one of the restaurants on the P. Rotunda and ate there. Tourist prices, so not inexpensive but the food was good if not amazing and dining a stone’s throw from the Pantheon: priceless.
May 30th, 2009, 03:31 AM
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Day four: Sunday – had morning reservations at the Galleria Borghese – taxied there. Can’t say enough about how fabulous this museum is. The timed entrance makes it such an enjoyable visit – no crowds. The art is amazing, the rooms themselves are amazing. Highly, highly recommend. I got tickets about a month in advance online – had no problem picking the day & timeslot I wanted. You need to arrive about a half hour before your appointed time to pick up your tix and check your bags.
I mentioned on an earlier post: get your tickets at the will-call window before you queue up to check your bag. They require the ticket and you can waste a lot of time waiting only to get turned away at the bag counter.
There was a little snack bar on the bottom floor where we had a bite after our tour. Cheap prices, good paninis, pastries, etc.
We walked from there down the Via Veneto – a whole different kind of neighborhood. Big, ritzy hotels and restaurants. Much newer buildings. Which is still antique by US standards. We always laugh at how people here get excited and think something’s so old when it’s from the 1700s. There’s a funny Eddie Izzard bit where he talks about a Miami Beach tour where they reverently describe buildings as being built “over 50 years ago!”
Clueless. But I digress...
On the Via Veneto close to Piazza Barberini we visited the church of Santa Maria della Concezione to see the crypts of the Capuchin monks. There are five chapels beneath the church decorated with 1000s of bones of long-dead monks. Pretty creepy but fun creepy.
From there we made our way back to the center of the city and re-visited some of the hot spots – had to get our coins thrown in the Trevi. Ended back in Trastevere for dinner – another delicious and inexpensive meal.
I mentioned on an earlier post: get your tickets at the will-call window before you queue up to check your bag. They require the ticket and you can waste a lot of time waiting only to get turned away at the bag counter.
There was a little snack bar on the bottom floor where we had a bite after our tour. Cheap prices, good paninis, pastries, etc.
We walked from there down the Via Veneto – a whole different kind of neighborhood. Big, ritzy hotels and restaurants. Much newer buildings. Which is still antique by US standards. We always laugh at how people here get excited and think something’s so old when it’s from the 1700s. There’s a funny Eddie Izzard bit where he talks about a Miami Beach tour where they reverently describe buildings as being built “over 50 years ago!”
Clueless. But I digress...
On the Via Veneto close to Piazza Barberini we visited the church of Santa Maria della Concezione to see the crypts of the Capuchin monks. There are five chapels beneath the church decorated with 1000s of bones of long-dead monks. Pretty creepy but fun creepy.
From there we made our way back to the center of the city and re-visited some of the hot spots – had to get our coins thrown in the Trevi. Ended back in Trastevere for dinner – another delicious and inexpensive meal.
May 30th, 2009, 03:34 AM
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Day 5: Monday, had reservations for the Scavi tour at the Vatican. Highly recommend. They take small groups – maybe 10 – and only a few groups a day. I requested tickets online almost a year in advance and received the date I wanted. Kinda neat to see the Vatican’s email address pop up in your inbox to confirm. That Pope is no luddite!
There were a few doubting Thomas’s in our group that kept challenging the proof that the tomb was really St. Peter’s. Didn’t seem to rattle the guide though, she calmly re-explained the various reasons they have to believe it is. And really, isn’t it all about faith, people? Definitely a fun tour to take – the old tombs, musty, humid tunnels – very Indiana Jones. Or I guess I should say Angels & Demons but I’ve not read the book or seen the movie so Indie will have to do. The tour comes out in the catacombs of the Popes so you also get to see that area.
And that ended our first but not last visit to Rome. I know we only scratched the surface and will have to return some day. Fabulous, fabulous city.
There were a few doubting Thomas’s in our group that kept challenging the proof that the tomb was really St. Peter’s. Didn’t seem to rattle the guide though, she calmly re-explained the various reasons they have to believe it is. And really, isn’t it all about faith, people? Definitely a fun tour to take – the old tombs, musty, humid tunnels – very Indiana Jones. Or I guess I should say Angels & Demons but I’ve not read the book or seen the movie so Indie will have to do. The tour comes out in the catacombs of the Popes so you also get to see that area.
And that ended our first but not last visit to Rome. I know we only scratched the surface and will have to return some day. Fabulous, fabulous city.
May 30th, 2009, 03:42 AM
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A couple of random things --
Knowing some basic Italian phrases helps. People everywhere like to know you’re making an effort even if you’re pretty much bungling it (my high school Spanish kept wanting to leak out). I think it’s selfishly assumed everyone speaks English in big cities but we found that not to be the case. We had several pantomimed conversations.
We used ATMs with no problems. The max they would give was the equivalent of $350. If we asked for more it would much just spit our card out with no explanation and you might think the machine was not working. If that happens try again at the same machine and ask for less.
Many restaurants only took cash; same with our B&B. We did use credit cards a few times with no problems (Capital One has zero foreign transaction fee).
Jeans were worn by almost everyone, locals included. I have read a lot of posts where people worry about looking like tourists (I think the guidebook in hand and camera around neck are the bigger give-aways!) or looking sloppy. Truly, jeans are the uniform of the day. Or any other dark pants. Also, running shoes or flat boots or sandals – whatever is comfortable. I think the women in stilettos were either locals only walking a short distance or major masochists. I wore dark New Balances or Keens the whole time.
We didn’t use any public transportation – it just seemed like a hassle to figure out for only a couple of days. And we were able to walk everywhere except the couple trips in taxis. I thought the fare was reasonable (they had meters) and not a big deal to get a taxi at a stand. I don’t think you can really flag them down like in other cities – but I could be wrong. There are taxi stands all over the place, though.
I wish I had done more research on restaurants ahead of time. I knew there would be tons of options and that we probably couldn't go too wrong. Which we didn't - every meal was pretty close to stellar -but there was a bit of stress at meal times when we would sort of wander aimlessly trying to decide from menus which places looked the best. Next time probably not so much winging it on the food front.
I had read a lot of warnings about pickpockets but didn’t see or sense anything like that. Of course, you don’t sense it until it’s too late so maybe we got lucky but we never at any time felt any bad vibes or fear. No ‘gypsies’ threw babies at us. No one stuffed roses in our faces to distract us before they cleaned us out. Common sense prevails. Keeping a hold of your bag, not hanging it on the back of a chair, for example, or keeping your wallet in your front pocket and staying aware of your personal space being invaded – which is sort of impossible to avoid in crowds.
Hope that wasn’t a big snooze. If anyone has questions I’ll try to answer.
Here’s a link to some of our pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jamison.leslie/Rome2009#
And a final note to self : don't title your trip report "4 Days in Rome" if it was 5. I'll blame the early hour and the fact that it was really 4.5 days
Happy travels everyone.
Knowing some basic Italian phrases helps. People everywhere like to know you’re making an effort even if you’re pretty much bungling it (my high school Spanish kept wanting to leak out). I think it’s selfishly assumed everyone speaks English in big cities but we found that not to be the case. We had several pantomimed conversations.
We used ATMs with no problems. The max they would give was the equivalent of $350. If we asked for more it would much just spit our card out with no explanation and you might think the machine was not working. If that happens try again at the same machine and ask for less.
Many restaurants only took cash; same with our B&B. We did use credit cards a few times with no problems (Capital One has zero foreign transaction fee).
Jeans were worn by almost everyone, locals included. I have read a lot of posts where people worry about looking like tourists (I think the guidebook in hand and camera around neck are the bigger give-aways!) or looking sloppy. Truly, jeans are the uniform of the day. Or any other dark pants. Also, running shoes or flat boots or sandals – whatever is comfortable. I think the women in stilettos were either locals only walking a short distance or major masochists. I wore dark New Balances or Keens the whole time.
We didn’t use any public transportation – it just seemed like a hassle to figure out for only a couple of days. And we were able to walk everywhere except the couple trips in taxis. I thought the fare was reasonable (they had meters) and not a big deal to get a taxi at a stand. I don’t think you can really flag them down like in other cities – but I could be wrong. There are taxi stands all over the place, though.
I wish I had done more research on restaurants ahead of time. I knew there would be tons of options and that we probably couldn't go too wrong. Which we didn't - every meal was pretty close to stellar -but there was a bit of stress at meal times when we would sort of wander aimlessly trying to decide from menus which places looked the best. Next time probably not so much winging it on the food front.
I had read a lot of warnings about pickpockets but didn’t see or sense anything like that. Of course, you don’t sense it until it’s too late so maybe we got lucky but we never at any time felt any bad vibes or fear. No ‘gypsies’ threw babies at us. No one stuffed roses in our faces to distract us before they cleaned us out. Common sense prevails. Keeping a hold of your bag, not hanging it on the back of a chair, for example, or keeping your wallet in your front pocket and staying aware of your personal space being invaded – which is sort of impossible to avoid in crowds.
Hope that wasn’t a big snooze. If anyone has questions I’ll try to answer.
Here’s a link to some of our pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jamison.leslie/Rome2009#
And a final note to self : don't title your trip report "4 Days in Rome" if it was 5. I'll blame the early hour and the fact that it was really 4.5 days
Happy travels everyone.
May 30th, 2009, 04:26 AM
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Very nice photos! I love the one of Piazza Venezia with the flag. Did it take many tries to catch the flag in the open position?
We were there the same week, and I agree that it was good to stay in Trastevere, go to the more touristy places during the day, and come go back "home" for the restaurants instead of the other way around.
We were there the same week, and I agree that it was good to stay in Trastevere, go to the more touristy places during the day, and come go back "home" for the restaurants instead of the other way around.
May 30th, 2009, 04:39 AM
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Definitely not a big snooze Leslie, you did a lovely job of your report, thank you for posting. We are planning on staying in Trastevere next time we go to Rome and your B&B sounds just right, do you think you could put up a link for it? I like the idea of being close enough to go back and freshen up or put our feet up for a while and then head out again for dinner or more exploring etc. I'm glad you enjoyed your Roman Holiday. 
May 30th, 2009, 04:42 AM
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What an interesting report of your trip to Rome. I have been 2 times and still could go back and find things I did not see or would like to revisit. Alot of good info in your report.
Your pics are great also. Thanks for sharing.
Your pics are great also. Thanks for sharing.
May 30th, 2009, 05:04 AM
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Thanks everyone - glad the report could be of some use.
The Arco del Lauro website is: www.arcodellauro.it
Ha - yes the flag picture took many tries!
The Arco del Lauro website is: www.arcodellauro.it
Ha - yes the flag picture took many tries!
May 31st, 2009, 09:53 AM
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We are on our way to spend 4 1/2 days in Rome at the end of June. We envy you the early May weather, but had no choice about when we go due to DH's work shutdown in honor of the recession, so carpe diem! We'll take lots of taxis.
I was sorry to read about the crowds at the Vatican Museum; it was not too crowded the last time we were there. I read somewhere that you can reserve for 4 euro and go in the group line rather than the indvidual line, also that a good time to go can be around the noon hour.
Any comments, Fodorites? Also we are thinking of going to Villa Giulia to see the Etruscan art for the first time, also perhaps the National Museum. Any comments?
Mille grazie for the enjoyable trip report!
I was sorry to read about the crowds at the Vatican Museum; it was not too crowded the last time we were there. I read somewhere that you can reserve for 4 euro and go in the group line rather than the indvidual line, also that a good time to go can be around the noon hour.
Any comments, Fodorites? Also we are thinking of going to Villa Giulia to see the Etruscan art for the first time, also perhaps the National Museum. Any comments?
Mille grazie for the enjoyable trip report!
Jun 6th, 2009, 03:05 PM
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Loved reading your report. All the tips on tours and getting tickets ahead is really helpful. I am considering your B&B for our trip in late October. Although you said its not far from the sights (coliseum, forum, p. navona etc.) I am wondering if staying near the P. Navona would be better for me, even if a little more expensive. I am older, and know the walking will wear me out. If I could save my legs from the walk across the river, so as to be fresher for the sights, perhaps that would be better for me.
Jun 6th, 2009, 04:53 PM
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Nancy - yes, even tho' the walk was not what I'd consider far, it still was an effort at the end of the day when we were tired. We didn't use the bus, but there is a stop in Trastevere close to the Arco del Lauro-- not sure how frequently it runs. I think the P. Navona area would be lovely. I don't know what the neighborhood is called but the section between P. Navona & the Vatican is gorgeous & charming.
Apr 19th, 2010, 10:52 AM
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The Scavi tour is very cool. Don't forget about not bringing a big purse or backpack - or you have to check it beforehand so give yourself enough time.
Enjoy your trip - June's weather should be lovely - in May there were times when it was chilly.
Enjoy your trip - June's weather should be lovely - in May there were times when it was chilly.
Apr 19th, 2010, 02:52 PM
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Great report Leslie, thanks for taking the time to write it. I liked your comment about jeans in Rome. The thing that struck me is how stylish that the locals make their jeans look. The men in particular - their jeans fit beautifully and are usually accessorised with perfectly polished shoes, a fabulous jacket or a sweater thrown jauntily across their shoulders.
