I will be going to Provence with my husband and another couple, as part of a visit to several areas of France and northern Italy over 3 weeks in May. We only have 4 full days to see Provence and we are most interested in seeing local life, antiques and small villages with plenty of atmosphere. I've looked at lots of guidebooks, and every one has a different opinion about the best places to see. I would like input from recent visitors about the places we can drive to and really enjoy in only 4 days. Any ideas about where to shop (specifically, if you know good stores or markets) for Provencal fabrics and handcrafts? Our base is in Flassan on Mt. Ventoux.

I recommedn Uzes and Arles. Try and make the Saturday market in Uzes. It is a bustling market and also filled with good shops. Have lunch at Terroir which is right in the middle of the downtown.

I like Arles because it is, among other things, the heart of Provence. It also has an immensely nice feel. While some like the market there, I did not so much. But to wander around the town and even take in the museum is a delight.

There is also the Sunday antiques and others market in Isle sur le Sorgue. I have found some great items over the years.
There is a nice market on the "inner ring" at which you can buy herbs, cheeses and various other things.

Since you will near Apt, I recommend at Provencal lunch at Auberge de Loup(in the hills).

And, also do have dinner at Le Ferme de Huppe on the road between Jocaus and Gordes. This is one of the best meals and at a very reasonable price you can have in France(IMHO). You can sit inside or out. It's lovely!

What are the specific dates you'll be going? - lavender season, antique market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue, market in Bedoin (near Flasson). On Sundays, shops are closed, and some on Monday too. How are you arriving & departing??? How much driving do you want to do each day - Arles, Aix, & Nimes are pretty far away - so are St Remy & Uzes.

With only 4 days, timing makes a difference.

Stu Dudley

One of the best stores I have found for fabrics in Provence is Tissus Gregoire in St. Saturnin de Avignon. I've been there twice now and both times we couldn't hardly drag ourselves away. Such gorgeous fabrics, includiong Provencal fabrics by the meter and then tons of other "stuff:" wash mitts (which I LOVE!), placemats, napkins, table runners, bath towels, decorate dish towels, etc., etc.

The market in L'Isle sur la Sorgue is not just antiques. It is a fabulous market on Sunday mornings but you need to be there before 9A or parking will be a big problem. LOVE that market.

If you want to do a daytrip up the "wine route" and visit some wineries, do stop in Gigondas and Seguret. Both are just a short distance off the main road and Seguret, in particular, is just a precious little perched village. Gigondas has a "cave" in town for wine tastings. Several of the perched villages are just off the main route going north, but not sure of what your times constraints might be.

Roussillon has my heart for all the terra cotta, ochres, and texture.

Get a good map of the Luberon/Vaucluse area and see what might "sing" to you.

We also loved the drive on the D99 (I believe) into St. Remy. Miles of arched plane trees over the road which made you feel you were driving through a beautiful green tunnel.

Enjoy!

joy/luvparee

P.S. Any of the markets in the area will have Provencal tablecloths, napkins, dishtowels, etc., but not fabric by the meter.

Remember to change measurements from yards to meters before you leave.

Driving in the South of France is soooo easy!

Thanks for all the great info. I will definitely take this list with me. We are driving to Flassan from Paris and will head to Italy when we leave Provence. Arles was one of my considerations, as was Isle sur la Sorgue, and both are now on the itinerary. It's really hard to know what to focus on in only four days, so these suggestions are really helpful.

There is a fellow in Flassan who makes really nice olive oil
soaps out of his garage - he sells at various markets but
you can buy direct. Very inexpensive and lovely scents.
Sorry, forgotten the name, but there were signs in Flassan.

Vaison is a nice shopping town and the Bedoin market is
really 'authentique'.

Wow - that's a huge amount of driving and not much time "being there". Why are you driving from Paris to Flassan - are you a European and have your own car there? What's wrong with the 3 hr TGV to Provence. Driving south to Provence from Paris is something I would sure avoid - unless I was going to take 3 days/2 nights to do it. Driving from Provence into italy isn't fun either - especially if you go through Genoa and all the tunnels there.

Stu Dudley

I agree with Stu about taking the TGV to Avignon and picking up your rental car there. Remember my info on making certain you do not book to depart in Avignon Centre. The train ride is relaxing and so short. I took a book to read while on the train and ended up just staring out the window for the full trip.

You might also consider taking the train to Italy and picking up a car there as well.

Have you checked out Autoeurope?

And driving in Italy is not for the faint of heart.

Since you are going to Arles, I recommend a little place to eat "The Cricket". It is open for both lunch and dinner and is near the amphitheater. We loved it! We made the big mistake(IMHO) of eating at "Joel...(I now forget the name). He had formerly cooked at La Chassagnete which we loved on a prior to trip. The whole experience at his new place was just too precious for us. I also recommend you go to the Nord Pinus if not for anything but a drink. It is a beautiful building and will be our hotel next time we visit. BTW~we stayed at Le Calendal which was reasonable, clean and up near the Amphitheater. You do want to use their private parking option.

<<P.S. Any of the markets in the area will have Provencal tablecloths, napkins, dishtowels, etc., but not fabric by the meter.>>

Actually, a few vendors at the street market in St. Remy did have fabric available by the meter when we were there.

We've purchased lots of fabric by the yard in Provence. However, over the last 20 years, there are fewer & fewer vendors doing so.

Stu Dudley