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4 Cs-Champagne, Cartier, Chanel & Christmas in Paris 2013 were fantastic!

4 Cs-Champagne, Cartier, Chanel & Christmas in Paris 2013 were fantastic!

Old Jan 7th, 2014, 12:53 PM
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Sighing for Paris!
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 01:51 PM
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Love you trip report.....and would love to know location of Marco Polo. Heading to Paris & the 6th arr in May. Always looking for a " new " place to eat (that the Fodorites recommend).
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 01:52 PM
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....should be love YOUR trip report......and many thanks for posting !
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 02:01 PM
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I've enjoyed reading about your time in Paris, Denise! The dining, the shopping and the whole holiday experience once again inspires me to consider Christmas in Paris! The idea is so appealing. For now, Paris in September will have to do!

Waiting to hear about your dinner at Reed and more!
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 06:30 PM
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ziggypop, your comments may be the best part of my report! So, I have a sister from another mother, huh?

Cornelius01 - we really prefer the area we were in this time. I am less of a 7th arr. fan than many. I can't explain it and it is truly a matter of preference. I have never had a close affinity to the Eiffel Tower - maybe that's why. We enjoy the energy more in the 5th/6th arr. The apartment was close to the Metro.
The Seyssel is HUGE compared to the Kir and it is a very nice apartment (great water pressure, elevator in the bldg, right around the corner from Notre Dame, close fresh air market and Metro). Far more appliances than the Kir (large refrigerator, washer/dryer combo, dishwasher). I felt like there was a bit more noise in the building but Chaz didn't notice anything and I notice everything like that. It didn't interfere with sleep. The smoky smell was the only drawback. (The Paris Perfect management has contacted the owner who has promised to take care of it).

Nottingham - Marco Polo is right around the corner from the Odeon metro stop. It's the most picturesque angled cornered area...can't explain it but we both love it!
The address is 8 rue de Condé 75006, at the corner of rue St Sulpice.

Patty - that auction would have been dangerous.

I miss it - all of it and I can't recommend Christmas in Paris enough. I will get to Reed.

I got stuck trying to get into JFK today, so I am behind. My real job is interfering with my dream job as Paris food critic and travel reporter!!! I enjoy your comments and thoughts, so much. Writing the T/R is fun for me (when the pesky job doesn't get in the way) and reading it over again when I am missing Paris, helps take the "edge". I have learned so much through all of you over the years, so I hope to contribute to you all. Your ideas and trip reports have made our trips great.
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 08:15 PM
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)))ziggypop, your comments may be the best part of my report! So, I have a sister from another mother, huh? (((

Denise, click on my name for a picture of your sister. These reports do take a lot of time, I get the feeling you are a blast to travel with. You have an infectious enthusiasm and it's easy to see that you are an optimist. Thank you for writing another report.
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Old Jan 7th, 2014, 08:48 PM
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Denise
Thank you for the Cartier reporting and photos...I feel better now.
Sheesh...
I always have regrets of what I missed in Paris.
That's why I keep going back at the expense of going somewhere new.
I have my favorite things to do but love the new discoveries and usually there is something extra special that is happening in Paris.
I totally relate to your sentiment about reliving your trips-you're inspiring me to write a trip report of my time in Paris.
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Old Jan 8th, 2014, 07:28 AM
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Denisea I just love this report; you took the trip that I would take if my husband had a little more (that means, any) enthusiasm for shopping.

We just booked a trip to Geneva and Lake Como and I had reconciled myself to the fact that I am not going to Paris this year when I read this, and...now missing Paris dreadfully. I am hoping to make it to Paris for Christmas soon - maybe this year?- as this will be the first holiday in seven years that I will not be in school (mid-life career change led to new BA and then new MA program).

Since you love champagne I'm wondering if you might know what brand they pour at the Opéra? We had glasses last summer and I can't remember the brand; it is one that I had heard of and thus probably sold here (I'm dying to get my hands on some).

I'll be archiving your reports for my next trip. Thank you so much!

Debra
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Old Jan 8th, 2014, 04:40 PM
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Debra - I don't remember for sure but am thinking that Opera Garnier serves Moet & Chandon.

Here are some favorites of ours, in case you run across them:
Nicolas Feuillatte , Veuve Clicquot, Tsarine, Bruno Paillard, Billecart-Salmon and Lanson.
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Old Jan 8th, 2014, 06:04 PM
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Reed – December 26, 2013

We looked forward to going back to Reed. Catherine is so welcoming and although the menu is small, it is all good! I had been talking about the risotto for the past 2 years, so we had to go back.

We were running a few minutes ahead of time and decided to re-visit rue St. Dominique. A little window shopping and we stopped into a Starbucks to avoid being the first ones in the restaurant.

I got a bottle of water and we sat down….right next to a 25 year old couple who apparently thought it was Valentine’s Day. They put the couple at the bar at Georges V to shame. Hard not watch, but we didn’t want to but we weren’t ready to leave. We probably could have recorded them with the iPhone. I doubt they would have noticed.

Seven thirty came and we walked back to Reed. Catherine was so sweet. I can’t believe she would have remembered us and maybe Gracejoan reminded her that we were coming in, but she said she remembered and knew where we sat 2 years ago and we took our seats there. We chatted a bit and she has been putting in such long hours. I can only imagine how difficult opening and running restaurant in Paris must be. I have a ton of respect for anyone who is gutsy enough to open a place. Catherine does everything on her own, plus teaching cooking lessons during the day. I am sure it is tough and has to be exhausting!

I love the red cushions and taupey walls at Reed. There is a bit more room between tables than there is at most Paris restaurants, which is nice. We got a little Champagne (shocking, I know) and Catherine reviewed the menu with us. She had changed it the day before. There are usually 4 choices for entrées and mains and 3-4 dessert choices.

Although the selection is smaller, they all sounded great. I hated to not try the celery root/granny smith apple soup, but the salad with pear and Roquefort salad won out for me. Chaz chose the roasted tomato tart. Both were excellent, but that tomato tart is one of the best things we ate in Paris. Super flavorful and not heavy at all.

Somewhere during this, two American men rushed in and were carrying on about running late, trying to call, yada yada yada and Catherine just asked them to sit down, no problem but she had to get back into the kitchen. They sat next to us and it wasn’t long before I was ready to punch them both out. Because she had just changed the menu, the printed one was not totally current. She did review all the options with the gentlemen and after walking away, one of them began to make sharp comments about the purpose of the printed menu, which really irritated me. (Who cares she just told you what she was serving…can’t you remember it)? Then they started trying to figure out if she was French, as if she isn't French so the restaurant would suck.

Our dinner came out, mushroom risotto for me (which she offered to make the pumpkin risotto for me, if I preferred) and Chaz got the boeuf bourguignon. And we started to enjoy, while Catherine stopped off at the table next to us to get their order. One of them said something like, “what was the entrée du jour again” or something like that – a snide little jab to be insulting, as if she changes the menu every 5 minutes. Again, I am close to asking them to watch what they say about her (and there are other tables that she was waiting on and cooking for).

Ok, so the risotto was excellent (again) and Chaz said the mushrooms are the best ones he had anywhere. The boeuf bourguignon was also terrific. As Catherine came by, she saw that I was slowing down (the serving was huge and it was rich). She looked a little worried and I told her (over our friends at the next table), “I’ve been looking forward to the risotto for 2 years but I couldn’t finish it all if I sat here all night.”

They looked a little surprised (which I enjoyed immensely). She came over to see if they were ready to order and we overheard tone of them openly considering the tomato tart which we both spoke up and told him he should definitely get.

After she walked away, they asked how we knew about the restaurant and then expressed concern that there were mostly English speaking people there. We explained that Reed had been recommended by people we know. I also mentioned that if the food is good, I don’t care who is dining with me. We told them about Verjus and how we had seen some criticism of it because there are a lot of English speaking diners there, but our meal was amazing. They got a lot friendlier and stopped being so critical, which was a relief. Turns out they were in an apartment in the same area we were staying in. Eventually, they turned the cattiness on each other but by then we were working on dessert.

Dessert….me: tarte tatin, Chaz: profiteroles both: excellent. As before, we absolutely enjoyed Reed. The food is wonderful and it’s comfortable and cozy. Catherine is so sweet and creates wonderful food. She is very appreciative of her customers and I think she is just lovely. We wish her every success and certainly recommend Reed.

We had a great night. Unfortunately, the Metro seemed to not be running from the station we were at although it was not late. Bummer…we decided to cut our losses (as we lost a ticket) and headed back up to the street to grab a cab back to the apartment.

Only one more day left. Next: Musee Marmottan and Bistro Belhara with Florent and Michael (and Maman).
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 06:37 AM
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Ah ... lovely Catherine! Beautiful meal! I wonder if risotto will be on the menu when we are in Paris in September?

Too bad about the 'fuss' created by the other table of diners. I'm glad it didn't spoil your evening. Not sure I would have handled it quite so gracefully!

Can't wait to hear more ... even if it will be your last (sigh) day!
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 07:27 AM
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Catherine Reed is such a lovely woman. I don't think I would have kept my composure either. We leave February 21 and WILL definitely be visiting Reed. We look forward to eating at her restaurant as her food is always fabulous.
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 09:49 AM
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Thanks for listing your favorite champagnes! I was just thinking about posting the question.

I always enjoy traveling vicariously through your Paris (and Rome!) dining and bubbly reports.
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 09:57 AM
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Mmmm loving all the food descriptions!! Yummmm...I miss Paris!
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 01:47 PM
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http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/de...?sort=3&page=1

Why can't remember to put up the photo links?
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 07:17 PM
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Posting a picture of those profiteroles is just plain cruel. I'll be there in July. Le sigh.
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Old Jan 9th, 2014, 08:04 PM
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Hi Denisea,

Fabulous report. You have a gift – thank you for sharing it!

I am interested on your take at the Marottan – I loved it. Merci encore…
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Old Jan 10th, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Good to the last drop-The Last Day, Friday December 27, 2013

At long last, I will finally be going to Musee Marmottan. I had planned to go on the last trip but a sssstomach virusssss (remember the snakes on a plane?), robbed me of my visit.

I reserve the right to add to this later, as I do not have my notes with me but have some time to write. The last day might be in multiple installments.

I talked Monsieur Starbucks into breakfast at Le Metro instead of 'Bucks. Chaz had a ham and cheese omelette and I a croissant and chocolat chaud...sadly the only one of the trip! It just wasn't that cold!!

It's strange how we tend to go all Metro or all bus in Paris. I have no idea why. I wish I had planned better and taken the bus, but we didn't.

So, the usual "we can't read a map and went the wrong way" thing. We eventually were figuring it out and for the second time in Paris, we had a local stop us and give us advice, without us asking. So, again, the French are not rude! I appreciate someone recognizing that we obviously didn't know where we were going and offering to help.

This is one of those times where we probably should have spent more time in the area. There were a number of restaurants that looked promising. I love the huge seafood towers and we passed a place that had all kinds of gorgeous seafood. And, I spotted a luggage store.

The second thing we needed to do was to find an extra bag of some kind to carry all our loot back to the States in. We passed another interesting restaurant called Gare or Le Gare, I think. Hmm, need to spend more time in Passy next time, I think.

We passed through Jardin de Ranelagh near the museum and I spotted a very interesting statue. I would love for someone to tell me about it. It was a statue of a man smiling down at an animal (maybe a fox) and a bird holding a coin it it's mouth. Is he a nice man, are they tricking the fox, is this a story I should remember from school??

Finally, we got there and I had to laugh that the bus stop was right across the street. Not the best planning but then I wouldn't have seen that statue, so maybe it was for the best.

And, finally we arrived. I was happy to find that museum was also hosting an exhibit on the Bonaparte family. I immediately spotted a small replica or model of the sculpture we saw at Borghese Galley last year of Pauline Bonaparte. I find her intriguing and so this a welcome surprise.

Over the years in visiting Paris, I have tried to learn more about the historical figures and Napoleon is certainly a historical figure!

The museum is up next!
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Old Jan 10th, 2014, 05:27 PM
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denisea - I've been so busy recently I haven't even read one post of this thread but I felt I'd be rude if I didn't at least drop in to say hello after your trip so....hello.
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Old Jan 11th, 2014, 08:30 AM
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Mussee Marmottan--when we took the Metro there we got totally lost, took a wrong turn right out of the Metro. Finally stopped in a real estate office and a charming man helped us. As you said, the French are not rude, and definitely willing to help. Even with the language barrier, he looked at our map and led us in the right direction.
Thankfully, because the artwork there was outstanding. Looking forward to your time there.

As far as bringing home the "goods" we always take one of these, put our dirty laundry in it and check it on the way home, and put our new purchases in our carry ons.
http://www.totes-isotoner.com/totes/...ortby=ourPicks

We have a black one but it seems that color is not available so I ordered the dark gray. As I'm writing this it arrived and looks good. Very useful. There was a long thread on Fodors with some other folding bags but I can't seem to find it.
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