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-   -   38N in Germany and north Italy (+ Prague and Wroclaw) (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/38n-in-germany-and-north-italy-prague-and-wroclaw-1735508/)

leifields May 19th, 2026 07:43 AM

Adelaidean – I’m late on board. Catching up after returning from a trip to South America.

Loving reading your report and all the stories and information. Great photography!

I enjoyed seeing Singapore, looks amazing but so far for me. Seeing beautiful Prague brought back good memories of our visit of 2016. The Basilica of St Peter and St Paul looks stunning!

The tulips in Wroclaw, wow, a real heaven! And Stadt Wehlen, lovely!

Had to do some additions to my long list…

Adelaidean May 19th, 2026 06:32 PM

Day 17: Stadt Wehlen (day trip near Bad Schandau)



Again, we used the ferry to cross the river, and then the train to Bad Schandau.

Another passenger was asking how to get to Schmilka and I jumped onto the DB App and explained timing and platform and my terrible German led him to ask “From where you come?” 😂 so we continued in English.



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ffa3cbd8.jpeg
You can see the Bastei bridge from the train

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea728a148.jpeg
The unusual sandstone mountains



Once at Bad Schandau, we crossed the river by ferry again.

Then took the Kirnitzschtalbahn (old tram now electrified)



https://www.vvo-online.de/en/leisure...ahn-196.cshtml

and walked the forest trail to the Kuhstall, a natural stone arch.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2adb3d54f.jpeg
We are headed to the Kuhstall

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9f6dd78f.jpeg
So lush and green

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd8c69e7a.jpeg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...49642caf6.jpeg
This man was helping his wife tackle the uphill path, an admirable effort by both of them.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...704155a10.jpeg
The arch

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...521291950.jpeg
The arch

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Lots of crevices in the rock, some narrow access steps we did not attempt

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...414227ae4.jpeg
Lunch

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccde3d862.jpeg
Lunch

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b026db262.jpeg
The beer garden



It is another wonderful forest walk, and some German gemütlichkeit at a beer garden there, with a lentil soup and bread; lots of hikers and a friendly chatty atmosphere, with those at our shared table helping me understand the menu.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15aaace1c.jpeg

Bad Schandau

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbeefcabe.jpeg
Bad Schandau

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f81bedf5.jpeg
Return ferry to train station Bad Schandau

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4d4ca1d1.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4256f020c.jpeg




We returned to home base and had dinner in our market square, which had a bit of extra excitement as the village sirens went off, as they did last night just before midnight. Some locals ran through the square, hopped on a quad bike and raced across to the ferry. Quad bikes a sensible mode of transport for first responders in these steep hillsided villages and rivers to cross.



We then had a final walk along the river in the evening light.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63043681c.jpeg
Evening stroll along river

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f3a51c45.jpeg
The ‘train line’ side of Stadt Wehlen

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb7595867.jpeg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4db640728.jpeg
Nice homes on steep hillsides

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e299bee6.jpeg
Some of these homes had flood indicators from terrible floods in 2002 and 2013

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ea7eb4b7.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcceeba67.jpeg




Today we walked 10 km, 13 flights



All transport covered by the guest card today.



This was our last day in the region.

Really lovely and relaxing holiday base.



I will farewell my cousin and her DH in the morning.

(We meet sporadically, and it’s an unlikely relationship as they remained behind the Iron Curtain in the 1950’s and my mother had left before significant border restrictions, then emigrated to Australia.

I had visited other family members in the 1980’s prior to the fall of the wall, but they were both working in positions in government and were unable to have contact with ‘the West’ and they were both sent to Cuba for 4 years - so we have not had the family connections until later in life where they have met me on various trips.)





You will not run out of trails to enjoy -

Hiking bus routes:

https://www.saechsische-schweiz.de/e...-bus-wanderbus

Or a bit further -

To Bad Schandau ferry over Elbe, then the Wanderschiff, to Hrensko in Bohemian Switzerland Czechia, hike / visit the gorges.



National park brochure and map

https://www.nationalpark-saechsische...e-Englisch.pdf



The Malerweg stages:



https://thedetoureffect.com/blog/mal...-trail-report/





Ingo, you live in a gorgeous part of the world!


millie2112 May 19th, 2026 11:13 PM

Wonderful pics Adelaidean. So great you did a bit of Poland. A wonderful country with amazing food,

Ingo May 20th, 2026 10:19 AM

Adelaidean, thank you for reminding me. After a while you get used to it and it's nothing special anymore. It takes a wonderful trip report like yours with all the details and brilliant pictures to recall how beautiful the region is.

You're off to Quedlinburg, right? Another picturesque town. Have a great time there! And keep posting ... I'll follow you virtually on your journey.

Thanks again.

tripplanner001 May 20th, 2026 11:04 AM

Still following along and very much enjoying it. Are you getting up to Dresden at all? I know I've looked at Saxon Switzerland when researching Dresden.

Adelaidean May 21st, 2026 02:13 AM

Thanks for your comments, it has been a nicely paced trip of great variety so far.



Ingo, that’s the same for all of us, I think, regarding appreciating where we live.

But also travelling, that first sight of a castle and I’m snapping away, then next day I walk past barely glancing at it, lol.



Tripplanner, I did not visit Dresden this time, but I have been before. Certainly a stunning city with many sights and fascinating museums. It would be a wonderful base to explore the region, as a 30 min train ride brings you to these walking trail options.

I just needed a nature based week after 2 city bases.

Adelaidean May 21st, 2026 02:32 AM

Day 18: Stadt Wehlen to Quedlinburg



Our final breakfast together and I hopped on the ferry to the local train station, then train to Dresden, to pick up the pre booked IC to Magdeburg, then regional train to Quedlinburg.



I took an earlier train than the DB App suggested, given potential delays (quite a busy line with freight trains to and from Czechia). Worked well, there was a 10 min delay and I still arrived at Dresden HBF with plenty of time to seek the facilities, a lunch purchase, and locate platform.



Dresden HBF easy to navigate and the IC train departed on time.

Very comfortable 1st class carriage, only half full, arrived on schedule.



Quedlinburg is a historic, wealthy trading town with a large number of preserved half timbered (fachwerk) houses remaining.

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/535/



It lies in the Harz region, and together with Wernigerode, Goslar, Halberstadt, Stolberg, and others, features as some of the prettiest medieval towns in Germany. The train from Quedlinburg to Thale is is 12 minutes, for easy hiking in the Bodetal.

It looks like the Brocken steam railway, and Rammelsberg mining tour are also popular.



The walk to the hotel in Quedlinburg is short and pleasant.

This is definitely a nice part of town.



My room is huge, and quiet. The hotel is only a 5 minute walk from the castle and the market square.



Had a short wander and dinner, then a stroll a few blocks around my hotel, admiring the gracious mansions (not half timbered in this part).
Plus really well kept parks, now busy with dogs getting their evening walk.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f8072e42.jpeg
The castle, abbey, church above the town

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9f22cfa6.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0011dc877.jpeg


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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebca45925.jpeg
Waterworks building

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8eb6cdd0d.jpeg
The historic waterworks building, built 1885

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8892cbbec.jpeg
Nice parks surrounding the waterworks

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37f7b7fdd.jpeg
Very elegant buildings in the block around the hotel, with beautiful large trees and gardens

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2dacd255a.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1274dde9c.jpeg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13b9daa3c.jpeg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7af0ab685.jpeg
Public green spaces, well tended

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a95b63b28.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9dd3e2c5.jpeg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31dc45c10.jpeg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de6967ff2.jpeg



Walked 6.5 km today



tripplanner001 May 21st, 2026 04:45 AM

The buildings look gorgeous. Do you know if it is post-WWII reconstruction or are the buildings originals that escaped the world wars?

ANUJ May 21st, 2026 09:11 AM

Enjoying the "unseen" Poland, we've only been to Gdansk, Warsaw and Krakow. You've covered a lot on this trip !

Adelaidean May 21st, 2026 07:48 PM

Tripplanner, Quedlinburg escaped the wartime destruction that so many other towns and cities endured.

But there are some East German era buildings that are just ugly. Aesthetics were not a priority.

https://www.thegermanyinsider.com/quedlinburg-guide/



Adelaidean May 21st, 2026 08:25 PM

Day 19: Quedlinburg



A charming breakfast room, and another excellent breakfast.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dec190922.jpeg


A short wander to experience the town before the day trippers descend and many of the visitors are not yet out.

Really like this time of day, locals walking their dogs and heading to work, the car drivers waiting patiently for the rubbish collection to come through the tiny lanes, not yet busy with tourists.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c8ff5818.jpeg
Carparking is minimal when you live next to a castle

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ced7a3e34.jpeg
Managed to squeeze in a front garden

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7ac008ec.jpeg
Narrow lanes

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abd46e160.jpeg
Narrow lanes

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9637ed43e.jpeg
Quiet early morning

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb6a7c037.jpeg
Decorative wooden detail

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...871957497.jpeg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2637fe4ea.jpeg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e675c8097.jpeg
Larger buildings with communal entry areas

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eea024240.jpeg
Bookstore tucked away in this lane

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e578bb367.jpeg
Scary German fairy tales featuring witches

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b1c2813b.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4eb879c75.jpeg


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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48b3a4bad.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca6e28b81.jpeg
Where the locals were doing their everyday shopping

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8da100424.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec130ea51.jpeg
Tiny front spaces

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cc4a1acf.jpeg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bef8c8fd9.jpeg
Squeezing in 2 cars

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3b000ed1.jpeg
Tiny houses

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da378a66a.jpeg



The Marktplatz was busy though, with stalls being erected, as there’s an upcoming annual city festival, the Königstage (King’s Days)

Passed through the main historic centre and to the less touristy outer ring where you find hairdressers, and optometrist, etc.

It was a very interesting stroll.



Then back for a rest.

Returned to the historic centre, and the now open stores with goods spilling onto footpath - it’s a completely different, more lively street vibe.

I was drawn in by a garden store, which I noticed also had simple lunches on offer, so I entered this unexpected sweet and cosy cafe with indoor and outdoor eating nooks.

Had a very good vegetable soup, and a strawberry ice cream.

Then lots of meandering, into churches, down alleyways, with no plan.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...defec9c15.jpeg
Please don’t block my driveway!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...258a7ac2a.jpeg
Stores wares on footpath

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cea63c81.jpeg
It changes the atmosphere as stores open up

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f9f472f8.jpeg
Ate here at the garden centre

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75f2b4432.jpeg
A little cafe out the back

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73b8aa3a3.jpeg
So cosy!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...480548ad8.jpeg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04b3a9a65.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6eadb00e3.jpeg


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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...962e3d0f1.jpeg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01cf5d034.jpeg
Small cars only…

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b29f1358.jpeg


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7eb02fb4.jpeg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e4076201.jpeg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35dd4d196.jpeg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...327e0c653.jpeg

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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9939b7a14.jpeg
Frontage straight onto street but has a walled back garden

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ab407b8d.jpeg
Walled back garden


Walked 8 km today, mainly wandering the alleys.

Adelaidean May 21st, 2026 08:33 PM

ANUJ and Millie, yes, Poland was wonderful, and just a taster.

Hambaghale, glad you were able to log back in to Fodor’s.


yk2004 May 22nd, 2026 07:21 AM

Adelaidean, just got caught up with your time in Stadt Wehlen, and now Quedlinburg! What charming towns and gorgeous countryside. I have to look them up in the map to see where they are, and now have to put them on my list to visit in the future. Thank you for telling us about these lesser known places outside of the big cities. So many places... so little time.

Ingo May 22nd, 2026 08:42 AM

Adelaidean - you make look Quedlinburg so charming, so picturesque! And it is exactly that ... however, somehow I never really enjoyed my visits there. Maybe it was the lousy weather (March), the crowds (Advent weekend) or the mediocre food and still run down houses back in the 1980s. It looks so beautiful on your pictures! I realize I must go back and give it another chance. So far my favorite in the area is Wernigerode.

Cannot wait for the next chapter!

Adelaidean May 22nd, 2026 08:39 PM

Somehow can’t add any more to my TR, when adding photos I get the message “you are no longer logged in”
maybe I’ve posted too many photos, lol

but can just add a written reply -

Ingo, on choosing bases, everyone I spoke to had their favourite.
My cousin said Goslar, my friend said Wernigerode.
It would definitely be bleaker in March. I prefer trees greening up, and flowers. And blue sky 😎
There are no charming canals and flowerboxes like those Alsace villages, and Bavaria.


yk, yes, I like to mix it up a bit.

Cherthor May 23rd, 2026 12:40 AM

Adelaidean,

What a wonderful on the go trip report you have, I thoroughly enjoy the journey through your photography.

I also like the way you travel, a morning riser, and with a wonderful mix of cities with nature. No driving travel is my motto too.

Sorry for your loss, and it was great that you were traveling to parts of your ancestors homeland.

I had just returned from my recent trip to Greece and southern Italy. I will tag along your remaining journey to northern Italy.

All the best for your journey.

KayF May 23rd, 2026 09:42 PM

Wonderful photos Adelaidean, thank you! I love seeing a part of the world I don't know at all. As already said - too many places, not enough time.

Hambagahle May 23rd, 2026 11:30 PM

Someone at Fodor's helped - and sorted it all. I absolutely love the contrast between the early morning walk when places are not open and the later one with all those fascinating store fronts and things for sale. What an amazing small (I assume ? ) town!

sassy27 May 24th, 2026 05:46 AM

I've been following along Adelaidean and as always what a trip report you have here. I had to laugh when I saw your pictures of the Wroclaw dwarf statues. I have pictures of some of the same ones from when I was there. I now know what this area looks like when there isn't a ton of snow all around. You make me want to go back as there is just so much more to see and love. I had vowed to get up early when in Prague, but I now know what I missed. Hopefully with a small break, you can continue to post more pictures.

Adelaidean May 24th, 2026 09:38 AM

Thanks, glad it brings back memories or is of interest.
Agree, we can’t see it all, and virtual travel can also be fun and enlightening.


But… still can’t post photos.

I’ll wait for tech support to help.



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