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-   -   38N in Germany and north Italy (+ Prague and Wroclaw) (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/38n-in-germany-and-north-italy-prague-and-wroclaw-1735508/)

tripplanner001 May 12th, 2026 04:56 AM

I've never been to Wroclaw but was just as surprised at how attractive the old quarters of Krakow and Warsaw are. Those dwarfs are fun; I wonder if there is a dwarf trail of some sort. And those tulips - when were you there?

Adelaidean May 13th, 2026 05:25 AM

Day 10: Wroclaw (daytrip to Swidnica)



Train ticket PLN 22 (54 min journey) bought at ticket machine as the Koleo App wouldn’t continue to payment.

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I like to check the upcoming stations


The Swidnica Peace Church (built 1657) and Jawor Peace churches are the last remaining of these incredible timber framed churches (only allowed to be built from impermanent materials and in a short timespan)

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1054/


It was a really cold day - my phone told me

Swidnica 9C, feels like: 5C

and I didn’t disagree;

luckily it was a short 20 min walk to the Peace Church from Swidnica train station.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38595160a.jpeg
The entry

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d24ff958c.jpeg
The grounds are pretty

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Stunning interior

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The grounds :

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Cemetery

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School


Then a wander around the Swidnica old market square and a visit to the Museum of Old Merchants to escape the cold (it contained a lot of historic weighing scales, typewriters, cash registers, old coins, ..)

https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...nego-kupiectwa


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(I did need a haircut and there was an empty looking hairdresser so popped in and booked a haircut for after my church visit, a fun experience with hand signals and I have no doubt I was her only Australian tourist client, lol)



Rookie mistake - buying return ticket in Swidnica at the machine, pulled out the paper ticket from dispenser and wandered off to look at the departure board and on checking the ticket found it was a receipt probably from previous travellers purchase (mine hadn’t printed yet).

Lucky I checked. Of course my ticket was gone by the time I returned, so bought another, but it’s cheap, at least I discovered this before I boarded.


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It is distracting trying to figure stuff out sometimes


Once back in Wroclaw, went via the Monument of the Anonymous Passerby as it reflects the disappearance of citizens during communist regime. There are 14 life size figures that disappear into the street.


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They start to disappear into the ground this side of street…

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And reappear other side

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(My father had told me of a neighbour when he lived in Silesia, who unwisely made some negative remark about the ruling communist regime that was reported to authorities and was taken from his home; no one dared to ask his whereabouts or situation - he returned 6 months later, again, no one dared ask what happened)



Walked 10 km today



most of that is to and from train stations - can take tram to Wrocław Glowny or bus to the church in Swidnica but I like the discoveries on walking.

Adelaidean May 13th, 2026 07:02 AM

3 Attachment(s)
tripplanner - I visited the Botanic Gardens only a few days ago, maybe 10 May..
I was surprised and delighted the tulips were still in peak condition

Day 11: Wrocław

Another cold day today.

Decided to visit the Japanese gardens

https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...i-we-wroclawiu

but took the tram to save my legs.


The walk between the tram stop and the entry is through a lovely public park.


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What a fantastic site.

So beautifully displayed and organised so that visitors follow a one way route but with lots of spots to sit and enjoy.

Azaleas and rhododendrons in flower, and so green and lush.


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it must be gorgeous in autumn too…


On return I walked via the multi media display


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-which must be great at night https://dolnyslask.travel/en/obiekt/...-multimedialna -



to the Zoo tram stop



Public transport, contactless, no ticket, show your card https://www.wroclawguide.com/en/more...rt-in-wroclaw/



I had used the ticketless scan with digital wallet but a ticket check by conductor led to a bit of agitated Polish and when I didn’t understand her she just got louder - then another conductor came by and did a read of my phone and all ok.

I used Maps on my phone to help decide on trams numbers and stops and that worked well.


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Had a much needed warm and cosy late lunch in a tiny restaurant, Pod przykrywką, which is near my hotel and has a small menu of regional cuisine. I had a horseradish and potato soup and pierogi with sauerkraut and mushrooms.
Tasty and filling.



More dwarfs https://visitwroclaw.eu/en/discover-...plore/dwarves/


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If I had a few more days :


Hydropolis Museum https://hydropolis.pl/en/

St Mary Magdalene church footbridge

St Elisabeth Church tower

University of Wrocław :

Aula Leopoldina

https://visitwroclaw.eu/en/atrakcje/...roclaw-museum/

National museum

Battle of Raclawice painting - is timed entry

https://mnwr.pl/en/branches/panorama...-of-raclawice/


Książ Castle 3rd largest castle in Poland

https://www.zamkipolskie.com/ksiaz/ksiaz_eng.html

Huge castle set in a forest, beautiful gardens How to arrive using public transport

Attachment 9624 train to Walbrych, then bus



There’s plenty to see here.

tripplanner001 May 13th, 2026 08:30 AM

Thanks for introducing me to Wroclaw. Definitely putting it on my list of places to visit.

Ingo May 13th, 2026 12:41 PM

I like Wroclaw a lot. Been there a couple of times but never overnight. Brilliant pictures here again! That peace church in Swidnica is indeed gorgeous - still on my list.

Btw, Dresden is Germany's sister city of Wroclaw. They gave us one of those dwarfs - it is on the western side of the town hall.

love_travel_Aus May 13th, 2026 04:15 PM

Oh thank you Adelaidean for your photos and writing about The Swidnica Peace Church!
I have just read the link you attached and am now going to spend some time looking into the history of this region and the conflict/s that saw the building of these churches, all of which is new to me.
Your travels have opened up a whole new learning field for me, so again, thank you.

Hambagahle May 13th, 2026 10:55 PM

Wow! I had no idea that Wroclaw was so lovely. And I have to assume many other Polish cities are too. Need to think about a trip there but maybe not this spring. As usual Adelaidean - great photos!

Adelaidean May 15th, 2026 09:20 PM

Thanks for your comments.


Day 12: Wrocław to Stadt Wehlen



I could have used a regional train and buy on this route on the day : regional train Wrocław to Zgorzelec to Görlitz €33 (which deserves a full day, so didn’t plan on stopping there)

Then ongoing train to Stadt Wehlen is €29.



However DB offered an IC option - so I pre booked on DBB €31 (total price, surprisingly cheaper than the regional train option) : IC train to Hoyerswerda with a 9 min transfer, arr Dresden Neustadt then to Stadt Wehlen

Then ferry across the Elbe River.

It sounded too good to be true, and it was.



The train departing from Wroclaw left 40 minutes late, and I missed my connection. The Hoyerswerda train station looks like an abandoned apocalyptic industrial wasteland, the station was locked, it was freezing, no people around, and there was no warm cosy cafe to pass the time in.

Fortunately the next train was only 30 minutes away, a few passengers trickled onto platform, and the train was welcomingly warm and quiet.

But the train connection following this was absolutely packed - new routing now - I was one of the few able to squeeze in but we were standing for the next hour.

Others could not get on board (public holiday crowds).



Arrived mid afternoon, to a sweet tiny little village surrounded by forest, and a teeny tiny hotel room overlooking the little market square. Heaven.

Reunited with my cousin and her DH, and we wandered up to the castle ruins for nice views. The visitors here mostly consist of hikers and cyclists, we have heard mostly German. The square was buzzing with people from their walks and bike rides, enjoying a beer or ice cream.


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View from my room

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The little ferry on the right is our transport across the river

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Train station across river too, view from castle ruins

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Castle ruins

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Lovely dining room for dinner and breakfast, watching the river boats pass


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Square from my room

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I have previously visited the very popular sights here, including the Bastei bridge, and Konigstein fortress, Dresden, but the region has lots of tiny villages and lovely walks so met a cousin here for a more laid back part of trip.

This area is on the train line between Dresden and Prague, on river Elbe, lovely hiking, beautiful river, forests, gorges, very popular with locals, good transport, accommodation and dining options.



We dined at our hotel tonight, half board is offered, but we opted to try different restaurants over the stay.

Ingo May 15th, 2026 11:53 PM

Welcome to my (almost) backyard ;-)

Very sorry about your train experience :( It has been a zoo lately. Too many carriages in maintenance, so not enough room for passengers, endless delays and cancelled trains. That IC train connection Wroclaw - Leipzig was only introduced last December (I think), so it is still quite new and doesn't work properly yet. It is also ridiculous that it ignores Görlitz and Dresden, runs a more northern route so passengers to those bigger cities must change to regional trains (and spend long waiting times at deserted stations like Hoyerswerda ...)

The pictures of Stadt Wehlen are beautiful. Seems you were lucky with the weather. Spring is wonderful with all the fresh green and blooming flowers. Looking forward to the next chapter!

Adelaidean May 16th, 2026 11:52 AM

The green is amazing, Ingo, so beautiful here.

Day 13: Stadt Wehlen

We have a local guest card from the hotel, for transport (free ferry and regional train / bus).

Wonderful long slow breakfast today, with those serene views over the Elbe.

We chose to walk a portion of the Malerweg, first the ferry across river, then through this charming village and on a trail through the forest, clambering up and down steps, lunch at a tiny inn, and continued on to Rathen.

So lush and green. Absolutely beautiful forest trail.

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Waiting for the ferry

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Fantastic public transport, runs ‘on demand’

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On the other side now


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Can take other boats up and down the river


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Heading to the trail

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Following the M (Malerweg) sign on tree trunks

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Gorgeous forest



Malerweg ‘The Painter’s Way’ Is a 110 km 8 day walk


https://thedetoureffect.com/blog/mal...-trail-report/


Malerweg https://whatifwewalked.com/malerweg-guide/.

Most choose sections to walk and use bus/ ferry back.



Very typical local foods, had a lentil soup, rye bread, plum cake for lunch. Excellent walking sustenance.



There are a lot of steps and stairs. Some steps built between boulders are really narrow, and quite the squeeze.

It’s so interesting with lots of panorama points, occasionally viewing the Konigstein fortress, or the Bastei bridge.



Arrived in the lovely town of Rathen, where we stopped for excellent icecream, then a few minutes train journey and ferry back to the hotel for a rest, then the (on demand) ferry for the 30 second trip across river and a 1 minute walk to a restaurant for dinner.

Lovely laidback day.



We walked 8.5 km and 29 flights of stairs equivalent


Can’t load photos so I’ll try again tomorrow…

Adelaidean May 16th, 2026 07:35 PM

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Time for lunch

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Arriving in Rathen

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The next village from Stadt Wehlen

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Returned by train to our hotel

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View from hotel terrace - can see our chosen restaurant for dinner across the river

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Ferry across river for dinner

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Dinner here, looking across to our hotel


Adelaidean May 16th, 2026 08:17 PM

Day 14: Stadt Wehlen (day trip to Meissen)



It has been cool, but really pleasant: 3-13C in Meissen today

We took the direct train to Meissen, and it’s a short walk to the historic town; great luck that this weekend the annual pottery market is on, so a great atmosphere with food huts, stalls, and interesting locally crafted products.


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poking around the shops first ..
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Modernised traditional Christmas decorations

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Traditional räuchermann

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We had a short visit to the Albrechtsburg

https://www.albrechtsburg-meissen.de...astle/history/

the oldest castle in Germany, and the original site of porcelain manufacturing.

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X
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Cathedral next to the castle

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Early Meissen porcelain

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Then a stop at the Cafe am Dom for excellent cake, before wandering the market stalls, indulging in some hot Chemnitzer krapfen (yeast donuts) and trying some local wine, chatting to other locals from Dresden (me not keeping up)


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We returned to Stadt Wehlen for dinner - mine was a tasty locally made pasta with salmon and white asparagus (it’s spargel season).


Then an evening walk around this sweet village, with the lovely fading light.

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Stadt Wehlen is pretty small

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Steep hillside

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Evening light on the river


Walked 8 km today

Ingo May 16th, 2026 11:48 PM

Two wonderful days, it seems to me. Right up my alley. I have done the Rauenstein hike a couple of times - always fantastic. I noticed the prices went considerably up in that small Berggasthaus, though, with the new guys running it now.

Love the reflections and evening light on the river.

Meißen is always worth a visit. So picturesque. And the cake looks yummy! Btw, I prefer the Schieler wine (a local specialty) dry.

neckervd May 17th, 2026 08:19 AM

Thanks. This mix of well known and lesser known towns in Germany and in the former Habsburg Empire (Breslau was part of Austria until 1740 only, whereas Prague and Rovereto left Austria 1918, after WW1) looks very interesting.

Adelaidean May 17th, 2026 11:05 AM

Day 15: Stadt Wehlen



https://www.saechsische-schweiz.de/e...l-stadt-wehlen

Today the sky is clear and we wanted to walk part of Stage 1 Malerweg from Stadt Wehlen to Uttewalde Grund and on to Lohmen, as it passes through woods, gorges and interesting rock formations.

It was peaceful, and so pretty.


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Heading to the trail

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Perfect!

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the gorge is damp, with mosses and ferns

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Some rocks are wedged in the narrow gorge

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The town of Lohmen had a lot of old farms converted to homes and garages, with nice gardens.

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We ate at a very basic outdoor beer garden, a hearty bean soup and a beer, before catching the bus back.



Dinner was at our hotel restaurant, which also makes its own pasta.



Walked 10 km today.



Ingo May 17th, 2026 12:16 PM

A fairy tale landscape. Love the glens around Wehlen. Nice and cool even in the summer heat. Beautiful pictures!

Adelaidean May 18th, 2026 10:56 AM

Day 16 Stadt Wehlen (to Hohnstein)



We start every day at 8:30 with our excellent long breakfast and plan our day, my cousin popping in to the TI next door to check we have the details correct.

Today we took the train to Pirna, then the bus to Hocksteinschänke bus stop, picking up the Malerweg trail there, intending to walk to Hohnstein via the Wolfschlucht (gorge)


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This is what rush hour at the ferry stop looks like

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It was a lovely trail, through forest, up high on the rocky outcrop, down through the narrow chasm, into the valley, then uphill to the Hohnstein village.


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The start of the trail

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At a rocky outcrop

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The village across the valley, we still need to go down and back up

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Heading down via the ravine and a lot of stairs

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The exit out of the rock

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So green and quiet in the forest

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Entering the village after that slog uphill was exhausting, but astonishing to see the Burg Hohnstein towering on the ledge overlooking the village and backyards of locals.


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Their back garden with the castle overhead!

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What a charming village

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Parking spaces are tight

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We ate a late lunch at the castle terrace cafe, I had a tasty Solyanka sour soup with bread, and poppyseed cake.



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It is now a youth hostel

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The upper castle

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We took the bus to Bad Schandau, which passes through gentle countryside of farms and small villages, then the train to Stadt Wehlen, which follows the river, the overall trip took about an hour.


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Heading ‘home’


Walked 8 km and 23 flights today

Ingo May 18th, 2026 12:14 PM

I like that rush hour a lot ;-)

The fresh green is amazing. You are so lucky with the weather, too.

Castle Hohnstein will undergo major reconstruction works in the next couple of years. I am not sure I like that - it will probably lose most of its patina and charm.

Hambagahle May 18th, 2026 11:59 PM

Those stairs would have done me in! I admire those who have no problem walking on those grids. They make me feel very insecure (and anyway right now lots of stairs are out!!) But what a gorgeous area you are in at the moment. So lush, green and the houses so pretty. I liked that castle a lot and hope if "ingo" is right about the restoration they leave the outside walls alone.

Paqngo May 19th, 2026 03:24 AM

What a wonderful trip! Love all your photos.


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