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Ah, beautiful Prague. You've captured it so well, Adelaidean. Looking forward to some of the different parts of your trip that will be unfamiliar to us.
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The walk home…
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Gorgeous pictures in Prague!
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Gurl...you do hit the ground running!
Excellent photos (looks like you've got a new camera?) I've yet to be in Germany during Spargel season - wonder if it's still in season end of May??? PS - so sorry to hear about your dad. |
Adelaidean Your photos are stunning, esp the evening ones and with lightning strike! Is that the view from your hotel room? Did you find Prague to be overrun with tourists (doesn't look that way in your photos), as that's what others have told me. I have yet to visit Prague!
Melnq8 Spargel season runs from mid-late April until June 24 (st John's day, the official end day of spargel season). YOU HAVE TO TRY IT on your upcoming trip. I discovered spargelzeit 20 years ago when I was in Belgium in May. Ever since then I dream of returning for that. One May I was in Franconia and had spargel for every lunch and dinner. :) In fact 2 years ago I deliberately took my son to Germany for April vacation because I have been deprived of spargel for too many years. mid-April is early but I managed to get a few meals of it too. |
Day 6: Prague
Bought Prague Castle ticket online on Get Your Guide. Can enter the complex at 8am, but buildings open at 9am General ticket gives access to St Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St George’s Basilica, and Golden Lane, the ticket is scanned at each site (no repeat entry) but can walk around complex and gardens without a ticket. It was a 15 minute walk from hotel, via Nerudova St, a very lovely walk. Even at 9 am, opening time, it was very busy, and the most congested is Golden Lane as it’s so narrow and the tiny houses are exactly that. The South Gardens are very attractive and have sweeping views, a very pleasant escape from the crowds. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4d4247a5.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cf112f1e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...406d5e122.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28664799a.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...be7de4a89.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6923aaed.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ca724abc.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7bf7a9ac7.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...299d0f765.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c8ecea09.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4867b1df.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56d1b8431.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ceb2c5f06.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bf8cf1b6.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12a49cf8b.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...905520d36.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...65db61e27.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3cae65317.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea4c96805.jpeg Returned next door for dinner, an excellent beef dish, followed by a pistachio mousse dessert. Light and not overly sweet, really good. Evening walk to see the Church of our Lady before Tyn, as the golden hour / blue hour light is so atmospheric in this historic city. Fantastic summery evening vibe, with buskers, artists, people outdoors at wine bars, dogs being walked, a lively and fun atmosphere; and then arriving at that square with the gracious buildings, just wow. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a10d65771.jpeg Evening https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c5879ede.jpeg Lots of locals out with their dogs https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bef3e7744.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81f2f4d8f.jpeg Gorgeous evening https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c095fa1f4.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7315ff16a.jpeg They were great! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d70598127.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8c7d7148.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05291094b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6fc70fe1.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61e21bebf.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...916a65077.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...02a4af8f9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30fb84fea.jpeg Walked 8 km and 13 flights stairs today |
Thanks, Mel, yes, my father passed away in January, and in the time spent caring for him, I had lots of chats about his childhood and it meant a lot to him that I had planned this trip.
I am using a new phone for my photos now, camera is not necessary although I did bring it. It is very busy, I do wait for the sea of tourists to part… and that can take awhile… and I’m out early or later. I will post some “reality check” photos soon. |
Day 7: Prague
Visited the Wallenstein/ Waldtstein gardens (the palace was built in 1624 and now houses the Czech Senate). A large pond, hedging, garden rooms, huge trees, small fountains, it’s so pretty. I arrived at opening time of 9 am and it was quite busy already an hour later. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c5e60887.jpeg Lovely breakfast room https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...433483055.jpeg Entrance to free garden https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbf53df5b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a790672f2.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4dfdf9e97.jpeg Quiet at 9 am, busy by 10am https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...080ced03e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f415bc26.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a7266d65.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abfefaa71.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e1a5093c.jpeg Then headed to the Communism Museum, very interesting, but it is a lot of reading and standing. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cf1cea72.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f84c7513c.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24d690ac9.jpeg The usual foot traffic https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...98ff6dfc1.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8835c0928.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41fcb0500.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9772d0cd.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e47f03e58.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46c75f885.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93f2fd190.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2067f4b91.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8faed5585.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7eda0a3e6.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3e4a1610.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45679fb7c.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42ec040ff.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b251e6efc.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1ed2ab56.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d979ba5e2.jpeg The route over the Charles Bridge and through to the old town square was heaving with people, my preferences for early morning and late night walking here paid off. Then wandered toward river, many more elegant buildings and high end stores, passed the Spanish synagogue and stopped at a nice Italian restaurant for lunch. Slow roasted capscicum, eggplant, zucchini and onion; under a beef tagliata. Walked 7.5 km today |
Great photos, adelaidean! 38 nights is quite a lot. I know you are an active traveler, but hope you build in some relaxation time!
I last visited Prague 12 years ago, and it was heaving with tourists then, but at that time only in old town square/astronomical clock, Wenceslas square, the Charles Bridge, and up on the main street to the castle. I stayed six nights, I think, and with that length of time it was relatively easy to take the long way to/from places, thus usually avoiding the wildly crowded areas. And we were able to see a number of less visited museums and churches that were nearly devoid of visitors--same story in every city. You are a walker, and I am a daily jogger, so my morning runs enabled me to see many parts of the city during the quiet hour and in golden light. It certainly is one of the most beautiful cities I've ever visited, with some fantastic parks. |
Loving this report and photos!
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Enjoying your trip report. Great photos.
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Very sorry about your father passing away. My sympathies!
Fantastic trip report and brilliant pictures. These reality check pictures of Charles Bridge and Old Town Square are shocking ... was hoping it was not too bad :( It's probably much less crowded in the outskirts. The park of Pruhonice comes to my mind. Must be so beautiful right now with rhododendron in full bloom. I also noticed that inflation has hit quite hard - sausage for 160 CZK? Yuck. And the Vysehrad church costs an admission of 130 CZK? Whoa! More please ;-) |
yk - Yay! I will make sure to try some Spargel while in Germany later this month.
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Hi Adelaidean - I finally got my password accepted. So am back and loving your photos. Will keep checking in. Meantime have a wonderful time in Central Europe.
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Day 8: Prague to Wrocław
It is a 30 min walk to the station that was inevitably going to take longer - as I went a different route (last look at Prague) and I didn’t want to rush through. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...084d59166.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d16e47d94.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c637740d.jpeg Plus wanted to locate the old train entrance hall, which took some searching for amongst the crowds and the large station, so I allowed for that. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d2280b39.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b89bd7810.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93791b744.jpeg The old entrance hall is above the current one, escalators are signed to the ‘historic’ entrance https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c8caab1f.jpeg Booked train at Czech Railways 2 months prior, called “first minute fare” (is the saver fare) English version https://www.cd.cz/en/default.htm 4 hours journey Prague to Wrocław (Glowny) We think my grandmother lived here in Breslau (Wroclaw) when she was very young, and moved to a village about 80 km away. She attended school there in the village (meeting my grandfather), where grades 1-8 were taught in the single classroom, by 1 teacher. My grandfather’s family farm was bequeathed to the youngest son, and the other sons learnt trades, and my grandfather became a bricklayer. The family home he bought in the village was originally wooden, but he sourced seconds and damaged bricks and bricked around the wood and plastered internally. My grandmother later worked as a cleaner at the local school in the village, and also as a maid to a wealthy family. The children (my father and aunt) were born in the village prior to the war. I don’t have a car, so won’t be visiting the village. The train journey was pleasant and comfortable; and the Wrocław train station was a surprise. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19983f933.jpeg Lovely! But unexpected facade. The short walking route I took to the historic centre was a bit uninspiring, with unattractive blocks of flats, but crossing the river to the old quarter is really dramatic. Checked in to my hotel and then wandered the historic old town: 3 pedestrian squares in the old town, Market Square (Rynek) with the spectacular Gothic Town Hall and enormous tower and colourful building facades. It’s huge, pedestrianised, and so stunning. The Salt Market Square and New Market Square, adjoin, there are lots of outdoor dining options and it was buzzing in a very appealing sunny afternoon (but not too crowded) atmosphere. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...452f82fbe.jpeg First dwarf! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...74160c5be.jpeg Town hall https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...182bd3cb0.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f7a7d6e5.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b9cd809a.jpeg Stunning main square in old quarter https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab7aa9507.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3c42a416.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96d08083d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...289fe0ae7.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef9ab9580.jpeg The river Oder meanders around the old town with picturesque islands, canals, bridges, can walk along the waterway ‘Podwale’. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89f0287b7.jpeg Huge square, pastel coloured facades, and so pretty https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...10f4c43a6.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4d254084.jpeg Pierogi, delicious https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2b7e72d5.jpeg Evening entertainment in square https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c92a91ad.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...408d13a73.jpeg Detail on town hall https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...776867b63.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b90285dc6.jpeg 2 remaining narrow buildings of the old church yard https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e86e32817.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b0b2ecf4.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57ddf75ad.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f45f8403b.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a67287be.jpeg Wandered the market square, had a late lunch/ dinner of excellent fried pierogi, coleslaw and a beer, then walked to and around Cathedral Island (Ostrów Tumski), crossing several of the many bridges. Such a beautiful spot, the island is so peaceful, several stunning churches (the most prominent is the Cathedral of St John the Baptist), the Romanesque church of St Giles and other lovely buildings such as the archbishop’s palace; and the University botanic gardens which I’ll visit another day. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...111739e71.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6dab9b661.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68d076e19.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...300419495.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5f0f0ab8.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25223ae8f.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00427579a.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52d1bd3b0.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f0b38312.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...366bf544b.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afd3f62e2.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6718a4a4.jpeg University https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e19edddb.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9a685b13.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c483b39fa.jpeg I didn’t stay late enough, but a lamp lighter still lights the 102 gas street lamps on Cathedral island using a butane pole, 2 remaining in the EU (also in Zagreb) Wroclaw has hundreds of dwarf statues - The history of the dwarfs started in the 80’s when the Polish anti-communist underground movement (“Orange Alternative”) decided to fight the government by painting graffiti of little dwarfs on city walls. The first dwarf statue was placed in 2003 and now there are over 800. Each dwarf has its own character, outfit and profession, there’s a couch potato dwarf, musician dwarf, a prisoner and a ‘love lock dwarf’ whose job it is to remove those stupid vandalising bridge love locks. They are so well made with great character and really fun to find. It was a fabulous afternoon and evening getting my bearings and enjoying the atmosphere of a much quieter city. Somehow walked 12.5 km today. |
Day 9: Wrocław
Wow, breakfast deserves its’ own post! A buffet of regional dishes (salads, sour cabbage, soft cheeses mixed with vegetables), great bread, cheeses and sliced meats, chia puddings, fruit, … and option to also order from a hot menu. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a255efe2.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b1fe4342.jpeg Savoury regional dishes https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc4c4d44d.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...314511d31.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23cf194c2.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4b1b92cd.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...deaee1e69.jpeg Had a short wander around the old market square again, before the IPA games (international police association) start. There’s a lot of activity going on in preparation. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1427f9b5.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f66b3f87.jpeg Spot the dwarf waving… https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e934d9b45.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bbd6dfca3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f0fc0c8d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5a9fd0ee.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8202a3007.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c4a97860a.jpeg The flower market is in this adjoining square https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45061d176.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b25b8ab98.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8dc3328ed.jpeg The town hall https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8eb77cfd2.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a84536207.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce21d3f66.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a06826506.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e0937b6d.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...034a4f358.jpeg Strolled around the 4 denomination district and the Podwale (canal). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7e9b3561c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3b0fa275.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37d3dcc42.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d35eb408.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24153b72f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34177ac38.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d26453a20.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0171e5808.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b174e5c5.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f129d52e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13da83e5f.jpeg A rest in the hotel, and a return to Cathedral Island for lunch of cabbage rolls, then a visit to the Botanic Garden of the Wroclaw University (30PLN entry) And wow, so fabulous. I love gardens and this is large and winding, with many seats to stop and enjoy the moment. I chose a weekday, hoping there’d be less people and it was perfect. The tulips! Heaven. Swathes of colours, with gorgeous conifers and chestnuts as a backdrop. I spent the afternoon, sitting in various parts of the garden, messaging home, it was so relaxing. Walked 11 km today |
The botanic garden on Cathedral Island :
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7d3dbe81d.jpeg Just wow! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05166d588.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ec0bf926.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...87c09505c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fdba7af1.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f17b0949.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dbab8dd22.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c00459c33.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fe5958b6.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a9d2bf00.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...921a0d0ad.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...944bd77f4.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0e48e6d0.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c7975971.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6175f2daf.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b177058c.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4c075b67.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6f5be2cc.jpeg |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38a12b3fa.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4618a6cd.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...222f2a3c0.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...646375ce8.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...695784131.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...714417714.jpeg Azaleas and rhododendrons https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b4a8255a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24b3b1a8f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9829a1e4.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64cc45c0f.jpeg Even the bins are craftsmanship https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7fd669aae.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...efb0d1cd9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c93200e2.jpeg If this was Prague, you wouldn’t be able to move. Here, it was peaceful, I sat for an hour or so, wandered slowly, there were young couples just strolling, a mother with her toddler and a picnic blanket, mostly singles or couples, no groups, I heard no English. |
Wroclaw is amazing (not just because of your breakfast!), sadly we didnt have time to include it in our Poland itinerary a few years ago. Sigh!
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