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-   -   38N in Germany and north Italy (+ Prague and Wroclaw) (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/38n-in-germany-and-north-italy-prague-and-wroclaw-1735508/)

Ingo May 30th, 2026 03:03 AM

You probably took the same route to Italy that I took! Nice train ride, especially passing the Alps. I remember the stop Rovereto, wondering if it would make a good base for exploring Trentino. Now I know, thanks to you, Adelaidean! Beautiful pictures of your day trip to Lake Garda :-)

tripplanner001 May 30th, 2026 03:41 AM

Lake Garda looks beautiful and such a contrast from where you've been in Central Europe. I've not made it to any of the Italian Lakes yet.

Adelaidean May 30th, 2026 10:27 AM

Tripplanner, we have stayed in very north of Lake Como, on Lake Maggiore in Stresa (and Locarno, but that is Switzerland), have had 2 daytrips to Lake Lugano annd 1 to Lake Orta, and stayed in Lake Garda previously.
It is hard to choose!

Ingo, the train is very convenient from here, part of the reason I chose it.

Cherthor, I haven’t ventured into south Italy.


Adelaidean May 30th, 2026 10:37 AM

My evening wanderings last night..


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8c598f18.jpeg
Mozart held his first concert here in 1769

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c03de4f8.jpeg
Mozart’s first private concert in Italy was in Rovereto

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70b99d5ba.jpeg
Lovely small stores

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c04193f7a.jpeg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1a46fb4a.jpeg

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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad6e126b2.jpeg
Menswear - very stylish

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ed954e7d.jpeg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf07cc90a.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7599161cd.jpeg

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Adelaidean May 30th, 2026 11:10 AM

Day 28: Rovereto


Slow morning, had an espresso at the nearby square where a tiny food market had set up.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c36e4fc5.jpeg


Then headed to the castle. It’s 5 mins walk from my apartment, and included in the Guest card

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd300cc65.jpeg
The walk to the castle is a pretty nice 5 minutes!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cfdc97568.jpeg

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The original fortress was built around 1300, came under Venetian rule in 1416, and redesigned with towers and improved fortifications after that. In 1509 it was ceded to the Habsburgs.

The castle now houses the Italian Historical Museum of War. Rovereto lies on the WW1 frontline between Italy and Austria-Hungary and the collection preserved is enormous.

https://museomitag.it/en/the-castle/

https://museomitag.it/en/



This is a most incredible museum.

It’s set in a castle, so that in itself is a challenge of modernising and accessibility and it is so fantastically well done.

The museum displays are excellent, I’m too deaf to use an audio guide but the signage was clear and very readable (pet peeve- too many museums have difficult to read labelling, pale script on glass, or over lit and causing reflections)

There is an enormous display of weapons and uniforms.

Each space has a theme related to war, for example, changes in technology and strategy, propaganda to encourage nationalism and conscription, communication systems, life in the trenches, the human cost.

There are personal letters, photos, short films, it is very moving.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f9371f93.jpeg

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Fill up your water bottle - but just look at that tap!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f12c3daa2.jpeg
Toilets in a castle

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81236396b.jpeg
Not that door…

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa314a6c5.jpeg
Nor this one…


And you wander through rooms, and tunnels, and outside to panorama viewpoints, and into towers (displays of archaeological finds and medieval weaponry).

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38f343f9a.jpeg


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Personal items


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1f319a8b.jpeg
Tobacco advertising back in the day.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2da7daefb.jpeg
There are a lot of weapons..

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6e04ce8b.jpeg
And uniforms

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Elaborate headwear

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3c0c2983.jpeg
War Photographs

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...642f1555f.jpeg
Cut out showing plane interior

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Photographer captured an explosion as troops advance

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ae502e86.jpeg
No words

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Refugees

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...810dc3785.jpeg
In between you get to wander to viewpoints

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Alpine fighters

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a939694bb.jpeg
Winter requirements

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...547450ae2.jpeg
Fighting in the mountains

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mobile kitchen facilities

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A propaganda film produced by a Turin company in 1916

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f08b3d6d.jpeg
A prosthetic leg

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Views to the hills

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Views down to the river

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Beautiful

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Armour detail

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More armour detail

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And more

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Fortress towers held the older displays

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...203698bf8.jpeg
Archaeological finds

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You exit the tower through a tunnel

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adb1ec174.jpeg
More views

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9019bbb0f.jpeg
Heading home, nice carport

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This is the view near my door, hillside village barely visible


Could ‘chat’ to the museum attendants, (without a common language but Google translate) because it’s so quiet. They also guide you through to the next space as it’s not purpose built and some access via external walls or through tunnels.

So enjoyable after having been in Prague castle and the tourist frenzy.

I spent nearly 4 hours there.

So, by the time I emerged, Rovereto had gone to sleep, post lunch.

Most places shut, so headed back to my apartment to refresh a baguette for my very late lunch and a rest.







Ingo May 30th, 2026 11:57 PM

That castle is right up my alley. Beautiful pictures, moving exhibit. Rovereto looks more and more appealing.

Cherthor May 31st, 2026 04:16 AM

On the whole, I am not a museum goer, but I do like to visit to castles and fortresses. I truly enchanted by this museum inside the fortress. I just wonder how do soldiers put on those heavy armors. The details of that prosthetic leg is amazing.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Adelaidean May 31st, 2026 07:50 AM

Day 29: Rovereto (daytrip to Ala)



Ala is about to host stage 6 of the Women’s Giro d’Italia: so thought I’d visit before it got hectic.

This town is just a short 10 minute train ride south of Rovereto.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c1ffe61b.jpeg
Ala is a small station

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...92f9dbcfe.jpeg
View from station


Ala is also known as the “City of Velvet”, as it was a landmark city for the production of silk velvet between the late 17th and 18th centuries. Hence the elegant town centres and palazzos.

https://www.visitrovereto.it/en/disc...alazzo-taddei/

This would have been interesting
https://www.initaly.it/en/articolo/g...pubblico-15466
but I missed it


What a sweet and charming town. Wandering rather aimlessly along the narrowing lanes, into the historic centre until I was in need of coffee and searched for a cafe.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5bdf1bf6.jpeg

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Getting ready for the bike race

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16f201c89.jpeg
Nice murals

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ffdd4325.jpeg
Even the street art is good

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6820eb959.jpeg
Lovely alleys

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Oooh tight parking… or too much vino…

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Off street parking

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Lots of pink flowers ready for the race

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Ohhh yes

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ecd9af01.jpeg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5982b240.jpeg
I had the one on the right - sooo good

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc4b439d1.jpeg
Ok I had the custard one too

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f041c2e0.jpeg
2 different creams inside a crusty layer, with almonds, best pastry combination yet

€6.60!! Double espresso and 2 pastries. I think I’m going to move here…


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...822349ef6.jpeg

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A bit more wandering and then an easy train ride back.


The afternoon was spent at the MART, Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, not my favourite thing to do, but it was hot, and the museum free with my Guest card.

I’ll post those photos later as my host has just arrived ..

Adelaidean May 31st, 2026 08:21 AM

Ok, the host is siliconing the shower…

so MART photos, …

these I liked…

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these not so much…

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12de9f7f1.jpeg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3631b9348.jpeg

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The building is interesting…

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a09f662d0.jpeg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bc7d05ba5.jpeg

and the walk home very photogenic, plus several gelati stores on the way so…


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Ingo May 31st, 2026 09:18 AM

What a find! Ala is super picturesque! However, there is NEVER too much wine! ;-)

The first batch of MART pictures I like, too. The second batch is ... interesting.

I need gelato also!

Adelaidean May 31st, 2026 09:48 AM

Ingo, my hosts just took me out for an aperitivo, and we have had those snacks you get with it, so now I hardly need dinner.

tripplanner001 May 31st, 2026 01:21 PM

Ala looks very quiet but great for wandering on foot. Makes me think of our most recent visit to Semur-en-Auxois in Burgundy.

KarenWoo Jun 1st, 2026 06:13 AM

Adelaidean, we just returned from a trip to Ireland, so this is the first chance I have to start reading your awesome trip report. I skipped ahead to Prague since we have visited twice, and I wanted to read about what you did there and see your photos. Wow!!!! Your photos of Prague are spectacular!!! So much better than ours! You really captured the beauty of the city, especially its architecture. You have a great eye for composition and focusing on details of the buildings and the best angles. Your photos make me want to return to Prague! During both of our visits, we did not visit any of the parks. They look so beautiful, especially at this time of year.

So wonderful to see your photos of Vysehrad. We first visited Prague in 2003 when our youngest daughter studied in Prague. Her classrooms were held in Vysehrad, so she took us there to see her classrooms. We fell in love immediately with this area of Prague that was not crowded at all in 2003. We love the Sts Peter and Paul Church and the lovely National Cemetery. We also visited the Communism Museum, which at the time was located either above the McDonald's or right next door, which struck us as very funny.

When I have a chance, I will next read your installment about Wroclaw. My mom's mother was born in Poland, and my Dad's parents were Polish, too, but born in the US. We visited Krakow on our first trip to Prague, but we haven't been back since. I would love to return to Poland at a future date, as long as our health and mobility is in our favor, at our ages.

Adelaidean Jun 1st, 2026 12:19 PM

Day 30: Rovereto (daytrip to Trento)



We previously overnighted in Trento when we did a family trip to north Italy, loved the city, so knew it’d be a nice and easy day out.



Decided to take the bus to Trento (60 min) and the train back (15min).

I enjoy the bus rides, I’m getting on with the nonnas as it’s mid morning, and passing through the little towns, it’s a slice of suburbia too, and quite a different view than the trainline.


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The Guest card is valid, just remember to validate using the QR code on board the bus, and the code is next to the validating machines at the train stations (before you board).

Trento is such a spectacular city, I just wandered the lovely squares and admired the facades, and had lunch in a quiet back lane, before heading to the river for the Sardagna cablecar, but it wasn’t running today.
So I’ll return another day.
The castle is very impressive, we visited it last time, might revisit again.


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cablecar wasn’t running

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d049fc423.jpeg


The bus station and train station are next to each other, and a 2 minute walk through a park to the historic centre.



On my return to Rovereto, I passed the local museum (Museo Civico) and thought I’d pop in.

Well, turned out to be a fascinating museum of (some gifted) collections related to the regions and a donated collection from a Rovereto archaeologist with an incredible coin display.

https://www.visitrovereto.it/en/disc...-museo-civico/



The staff tried so hard to find me some English pamphlets and even chased after me when I left as I’d missed visiting the astronomy section.

Natural history, fossils, archaeology, astronomy - it really was a great visit. Free, quiet, and on my way home.


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Fascinating coins

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I rarely visit museums, and I really enjoyed it. I had to use a translate app, but it was so quiet and I wasn’t holding anyone up.


Then decided I needed to do the Italian thing and walk 100 m to a piazza and have my late afternoon aperitivo, watching the locals sit with the sport papers or chitchat with passersby.

€5 well spent!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db68ba2fa.jpeg

Adelaidean Jun 1st, 2026 12:33 PM

Tripplanner, there’s no doubt those smaller places in France were some of my favourite also.
Karen, I think you might have been the poster that led me to include Vysehrad, so glad I visited. But it was a big day of walking.

Ingo Jun 1st, 2026 12:37 PM

Fantastic pictures again, Adelaidean! Another city I have to visit ... Trento looks very interesting. Aperol Spritz?

ANUJ Jun 1st, 2026 10:23 PM

Enjoying your report, and the useful information about Rovereto and Trento, haven't been to either of them.

twk Jun 2nd, 2026 11:11 AM

Lots of great photos. I am a sucker for a good military museum.

KarenWoo Jun 2nd, 2026 01:48 PM

Adelaidean, I just finished your installments about Wroclaw. Wow!!! I had no idea Wroclaw is so beautiful! It is so pretty with the colorful pastel-colored buildings! The main square is stunning! The pastel colors and architecture remind me a little bit of Telc, a small town in the Czech Republic, but on a much grander scale.

That plate of pierogi reminds me of my childhood when my grandmother made home-made pierogi all the time. We grew up on piergoi, golompki, kielbasa, borscht, and cabbage soup.

The Disappearing Figures is so sad and profound. A unique way to commemorate the victims and heartache of that time period.

And those tulips!!! Wow, Wow, and more Wow's!!!!

Adelaidean Jun 2nd, 2026 07:45 PM

Day 31: Rovereto (daytrip to Verona)



Thunderstorm warning for later today, so headed out early.

DH (not with me this holiday), our 2 teens and I had a wonderful 4 nights in this stunning city about 10 years ago, when I had gifted my DH a David Gilmour concert ticket at the Arena (remains one of his best travel experiences ever).

It is a short train ride, and only €7



A short walk to the historic centre, the Arena, the very busy main streets and piazzas.

I escaped the crowds by walking the riverside (dog walkers and joggers and parents with strollers) and having an espresso at a tiny bar.


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The Arena

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Verona Arena

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This is early, still ‘quiet’

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Porta Borsari, Roman gate

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The Porta Borsari

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Escaping the crowds

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Gardening in cities

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A bit of green when you have minimal space

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The riverside is a lovely area

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Those little coffee / wine bars that seem tiny, but have lots of little rooms, and even some garden spaces

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Impressive greenery - a successful attempt at privacy

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It was just an ambling kind of day, no real plans; as we had visited before.

Which was fortunate, as I hate crowds; it felt kind of crushing and suffocating and I just needed to escape once I re-entered the fray.



Returning ‘home’ to a cracking thunderstorm, heavy rain, and then that gorgeous stillness afterwards. Spent the afternoon reading.


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