3 Weeks in Naples, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast!
Nov 29th, 2012 | 04:14 PM
#24
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Day 10 - Sorrento
We arrived in Sorrento by SITA bus, over the mountains (which was MUCH smoother than the bus ride to Amalfi) and checked into Hotel Antiche Mura, a lovely hotel one block from the historic town piazza. It was just a short walk from the bus station to our hotel.
The weather has officially turned back to seasonally typical - Fall - but it is the last week of October. Unfortunately, we packed for lighter weather, and today it was cool and rainy. So we spent our first day shopping a little, and eating our way through the town - starting with a mediocre American breakfast at the hotel. Then at 1:00pm, beer and salads at Ristorante Syrenuse. Then at 3:00pm, Oriecchette with clams and broccoli, and pizza marinara at Pizzeria da Gigino. We ended at Fauno Bar with Espresso con panna, gelato, and sfoggliatelle.
I can't take much more of this eating!
Tomorrow is Pompeii...or is it? Husband just saw a notice in the elevator notifying guests that the train workers on the Circumvesuviana train will be on strike between 8am and 4pm. This is just like our trip to Machu Picchu with a planned strike. Hopefully it only lasts a day!
Day 11-12
Our plans to go to Pompei were thwarted by an 8 hour transit strike by the train workers, so we spent the day discovering even more of the historic town. Sorrento is very nice, more scenic and manicured than Naples. The weather was snotty with wind and driving rain, but we walked down to the Marina Piccola, had soup at a local joint, which tasted great, and watched a ferry actually try and take passengers to Capri. I wouldn't have wanted to be on that boat. Afternoon snack of wine, mussels, and the antipasti bar was at Ristorante L'Abate and a great dinner later on at Inn Bufalito. Husband and I both had buffalo - mine was stewed with potatoes, and his was a leg shank. Nice vibe to that place as well.
Day 13 - Finally, Pompei
I couldn't have imagined it in my wildest dreams... the story behind it, the amount of stuff that's preserved, and the enormity of Pompei. We essentially toured an entire small city in one day. Most of what we read suggested allowing 2 hours. We got there at 10am and left at 4:30! There was so much to see. And though our feet were killing us by the end of the day (and believe it or not we were starving having not eaten all day) we still wanted to duck in every last house or dwelling where there was something to see.
Most everything was impressive about Pompei - walking on preserved mosaic floors, seeing original structures still standing for the most part, and the preserved frescoed paintings. We walked through gardens of the wealthy, small homes and markets, Roman baths, their Colosseum, the streets with giant stepping stones still in place that protected their sandals from getting wet when the streets were flooded for cleaning. There are also a number of human remains cast in plaster under glass. When archeologists began excavation, they found hollow pockets underfoot where people fell from the pyroclastic blast and were buried in ash. Their bodies decomposed, leaving hollow pockets which were later filled with plaster to recreate the forms. They're very haunting, and reveal the sudden and grueling nature of their deaths. In many cases, bones remain as part of the casts (see the skull and fingers in my photos).
Another amazing thing we saw in one villa was a marble table with three lion paw legs. It was owned by Roman Senator Casca Longus, who was the first to strike Caesar in 44BC when the Roman Senate assassinated him on the Senate floor. It's presumed that after he was exiled to Macedonia with Brutus and his other co-conspirators, his belongings were sold to the public and the owner of this villa bought the table. How cool was that to see!
What wasn't so impressive about the site is some of the preservation, or rather, the lack of. Closets full of relic bins, intact terra cotta pots and urns and bones, are completely covered with dust, and exposed to the sun and elements, and tens of thousands of tourists a day I'm sure doesn't help! Honestly, there must have been 25,000 tourists there when we went - I can't imagine what it's like in summer. And tour groups who are literally running to keep up with their guide, leaving trash behind. We were nearly run over a few times. There also doesn't seem to be much regulation or interpretation for visitors, and tour guides seem to vary greatly in terms of site knowledge.
As far as hiring a guide, we saw much more of Pompei on our own between the free English map and guide available at the Visitor Info office, and Rick Steves' walking tour of Pompeii.
Overall, seeing Pompeii was a highlight of our trip - it's amazing to imagine life, and death, as it was back in August of 79 AD.
More to come tomorrow, when we head to Domicella in the Avellino province, where my grandfather was born, and emigrated from back in 1906! Can't wait…..
Link to Sorrento photos (slideshow): http://www.lorisorrentino.com/photos...lbumKey=JqPdLw
Link to Pompei photos (slideshow): http://www.lorisorrentino.com/photos...lbumKey=QZRzcM
We arrived in Sorrento by SITA bus, over the mountains (which was MUCH smoother than the bus ride to Amalfi) and checked into Hotel Antiche Mura, a lovely hotel one block from the historic town piazza. It was just a short walk from the bus station to our hotel.
The weather has officially turned back to seasonally typical - Fall - but it is the last week of October. Unfortunately, we packed for lighter weather, and today it was cool and rainy. So we spent our first day shopping a little, and eating our way through the town - starting with a mediocre American breakfast at the hotel. Then at 1:00pm, beer and salads at Ristorante Syrenuse. Then at 3:00pm, Oriecchette with clams and broccoli, and pizza marinara at Pizzeria da Gigino. We ended at Fauno Bar with Espresso con panna, gelato, and sfoggliatelle.
I can't take much more of this eating!
Tomorrow is Pompeii...or is it? Husband just saw a notice in the elevator notifying guests that the train workers on the Circumvesuviana train will be on strike between 8am and 4pm. This is just like our trip to Machu Picchu with a planned strike. Hopefully it only lasts a day!
Day 11-12
Our plans to go to Pompei were thwarted by an 8 hour transit strike by the train workers, so we spent the day discovering even more of the historic town. Sorrento is very nice, more scenic and manicured than Naples. The weather was snotty with wind and driving rain, but we walked down to the Marina Piccola, had soup at a local joint, which tasted great, and watched a ferry actually try and take passengers to Capri. I wouldn't have wanted to be on that boat. Afternoon snack of wine, mussels, and the antipasti bar was at Ristorante L'Abate and a great dinner later on at Inn Bufalito. Husband and I both had buffalo - mine was stewed with potatoes, and his was a leg shank. Nice vibe to that place as well.
Day 13 - Finally, Pompei
I couldn't have imagined it in my wildest dreams... the story behind it, the amount of stuff that's preserved, and the enormity of Pompei. We essentially toured an entire small city in one day. Most of what we read suggested allowing 2 hours. We got there at 10am and left at 4:30! There was so much to see. And though our feet were killing us by the end of the day (and believe it or not we were starving having not eaten all day) we still wanted to duck in every last house or dwelling where there was something to see.
Most everything was impressive about Pompei - walking on preserved mosaic floors, seeing original structures still standing for the most part, and the preserved frescoed paintings. We walked through gardens of the wealthy, small homes and markets, Roman baths, their Colosseum, the streets with giant stepping stones still in place that protected their sandals from getting wet when the streets were flooded for cleaning. There are also a number of human remains cast in plaster under glass. When archeologists began excavation, they found hollow pockets underfoot where people fell from the pyroclastic blast and were buried in ash. Their bodies decomposed, leaving hollow pockets which were later filled with plaster to recreate the forms. They're very haunting, and reveal the sudden and grueling nature of their deaths. In many cases, bones remain as part of the casts (see the skull and fingers in my photos).
Another amazing thing we saw in one villa was a marble table with three lion paw legs. It was owned by Roman Senator Casca Longus, who was the first to strike Caesar in 44BC when the Roman Senate assassinated him on the Senate floor. It's presumed that after he was exiled to Macedonia with Brutus and his other co-conspirators, his belongings were sold to the public and the owner of this villa bought the table. How cool was that to see!
What wasn't so impressive about the site is some of the preservation, or rather, the lack of. Closets full of relic bins, intact terra cotta pots and urns and bones, are completely covered with dust, and exposed to the sun and elements, and tens of thousands of tourists a day I'm sure doesn't help! Honestly, there must have been 25,000 tourists there when we went - I can't imagine what it's like in summer. And tour groups who are literally running to keep up with their guide, leaving trash behind. We were nearly run over a few times. There also doesn't seem to be much regulation or interpretation for visitors, and tour guides seem to vary greatly in terms of site knowledge.
As far as hiring a guide, we saw much more of Pompei on our own between the free English map and guide available at the Visitor Info office, and Rick Steves' walking tour of Pompeii.
Overall, seeing Pompeii was a highlight of our trip - it's amazing to imagine life, and death, as it was back in August of 79 AD.
More to come tomorrow, when we head to Domicella in the Avellino province, where my grandfather was born, and emigrated from back in 1906! Can't wait…..
Link to Sorrento photos (slideshow): http://www.lorisorrentino.com/photos...lbumKey=JqPdLw
Link to Pompei photos (slideshow): http://www.lorisorrentino.com/photos...lbumKey=QZRzcM
Nov 30th, 2012 | 03:04 AM
#25
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
The weather was snotty with wind and driving rain, but we walked down to the Marina Piccola, had soup at a local joint, which tasted great, and watched a ferry actually try and take passengers to Capri. I wouldn't have wanted to be on that boat.>>
lol, travelinmad, you remind me of the trip we made on the Capri ferry, more years ago than I care to admit to - although it was a very short boat ride, my stomach was so upset that I threw up on the harbour. i threw up again on the hydrofoil back from Naples to Sorrento. My then boyfriend [now my DH] was not impressed.
lovely pics - thanks for the memories.
lol, travelinmad, you remind me of the trip we made on the Capri ferry, more years ago than I care to admit to - although it was a very short boat ride, my stomach was so upset that I threw up on the harbour. i threw up again on the hydrofoil back from Naples to Sorrento. My then boyfriend [now my DH] was not impressed.
lovely pics - thanks for the memories.
Dec 1st, 2012 | 05:54 AM
#26
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
annhig -- yes, those poor souls! Once onboard there's no stopping it until you reach Capri, and if you're there for a day trip, well, it wouldn't be a pleasant one. The night bus ride back from Amalfi to Positano one night with a gentleman with bad cologne sitting behind me, was enough for me!
Aug 17th, 2013 | 05:00 AM
#27
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,301
Likes: 0
I just found this thread. Utterly gorgeous photos. I will check out other parts of your website as well.
What camera do you use? I use a Canon 7D. I have a fantastic lightweight travel tripod (Gitzo) and I think I've taken it with me once on a trip - a crying shame.
What camera do you use? I use a Canon 7D. I have a fantastic lightweight travel tripod (Gitzo) and I think I've taken it with me once on a trip - a crying shame.
Nov 20th, 2013 | 09:17 PM
#28
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Lori, Thanks for your detailed TR. Hubby & I are going to Italy on 1st May for 5 weeks and after reading your blog am wondering if we shouldn't structure our trip differently. Like you, I was told today not to bother with Naples, but I still want to see it. Capri and Sorrento weren't really on my list - just the major places - but perhaps I should have a rethink before the airfare is paid for in a few days. I've already booked the Rome apartment, mostly because the location is fabulous and didn't want to miss it. Lyn
Jan 18th, 2014 | 04:16 PM
#33
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
travlinmad thank you very much for the trip report. Your report and pictures were very exciting especially since I am going to Capri and Amalfi town for two nights each in September.
My hotels aren't quite as lavish as yours, Capri Wine Hotel & Hotel Aurora, but I have terrace rooms in each and the one in Amalfi is right down close to the beach which I am hoping will be a great contrast to the views from Ravello & Capri.
Your pictures are amazing. It was a great idea to include the Amalfi manhole cover picture. With the natural beauty of the Amalfi Coast and Capri you almost forget people actually live there and it is real
Thanks also for the mentioning the Sunflower guide. I am not an extreme hiker but definitely want to walk enough to see the hidden gems of the area and work off the gelato and bread. I see a lot of delicious bread in my future in Paris, Rome and the AC. Thanks again.
My hotels aren't quite as lavish as yours, Capri Wine Hotel & Hotel Aurora, but I have terrace rooms in each and the one in Amalfi is right down close to the beach which I am hoping will be a great contrast to the views from Ravello & Capri.
Your pictures are amazing. It was a great idea to include the Amalfi manhole cover picture. With the natural beauty of the Amalfi Coast and Capri you almost forget people actually live there and it is real
Thanks also for the mentioning the Sunflower guide. I am not an extreme hiker but definitely want to walk enough to see the hidden gems of the area and work off the gelato and bread. I see a lot of delicious bread in my future in Paris, Rome and the AC. Thanks again.
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