3 slow weeks in Bavaria

Sep 23rd, 2018, 12:00 PM
Join Date: Feb 2006
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What lovely photos, Adelaidean - I love the Fachwerkhäuser. How long here you there in total? Nice to be able to have a Ruhetag!

And where to next, i wonder.
annhig is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 01:07 PM
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Hi annhig,

we leave on Saturday, head to Munich tomorrow.

We had a wonderful holiday in Switzerland last September

Switzerland (and a bit of Italy) trip report

and we are returning in June - the Engadin needs more exploring....
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 01:13 PM
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Link to my Flickr photo album here:

https://flickr.com/photos/[email protected]

adding as I go.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 01:28 PM
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I'm loving your report, Adelaidean. We also love spending several days in one place to get a feel for it which also increases our appreciation. Garmisch holds a special place in our hearts as it is one of the first places in Germany that we visited many years ago. We visited again in 2016 and they had thunderstorms during the afternoons. The alps with the moody clouds above were gorgeous. We also ate at Zum Steiner Sepp -- it just happened to be close to our hotel -- and liked it so well that we ate there again several nights later. We've been wanting to return to GaP and your report provides lots of ideas for our future visit. Your photos are lovely! Can't wait for your next installment.
Trophywife007 is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 02:32 PM
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Love your pictures and the easy tone of your trip report.
bon_voyage is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 07:25 PM
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What a wonderful trip report of a amazing trip. I'm so glad you both were able to return and spend more time together with family. BTW, your pictures are so gorgeous I'm ready to plan a trip following your route. Thank you for sharing your trip with us.
Dee_Dee is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 07:28 PM
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Love, love, love your report! Usually, I don't care about the personal stuff or what people eat, but you write in such a wonderful way, it makes me happy for you and your Father. I am enjoying knowing what you are eating and all the photos and knowing about the family you are meeting up with. Thank you for taking time to share your memorable experience.
Sassafrass is offline  
Sep 23rd, 2018, 11:33 PM
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Day 13:

My aunt taking my father back to her home overnight, while I have a weekend in Lauf.

Took my father and aunt to the station, bought them Bavaria tickets for today and their return tomorrow, wrote down the times and platforms, got them to the correct train (it splits - check this on the signage, electronic sign shows 2 destinations and which carriage for which end point) and sent them on their way. They were looking forward to some ‘unsupervised’ time…

I took the S Bahn to Lauf (20 min €4.80)

Met my friend and we walked to Dehnberg through forest and past farms, had a look at the private theatre there, then on to Simonshofen for coffee and cake, probably about 5 km. Love how there is a little village every few kilometres. We passed tractors, people riding horses, cows in paddocks, pear and apple trees, enjoying the gentle rural life. We were met there by her sisters (in a car) and we were off exploring the back roads, their favourite farm to buy cherries, and the best local bakery. The typical Franconian farm village buildings with a steep roof, and the upper stories used for drying produce.

Passed through Neunhof (Welser Castle) and Beerbach (visited the church, beautiful parish buildings alongside), before finally dining at Nuschelberg (Gasthaus Hallerschlösschen) for a dinner of crispy pork and potato dumpling. Yum. And again, astounded at cheap this is compared to home, €61 for 4 substantial dinners and drinks, in lovely surroundings.

Lovely, peaceful day.

Typical Franconian farmhouse

Peaceful rural views

Beerbach church

The locals

Private theatre in Dehnberg

Dinner in Nuschelberg

Country living

Wood storage goals

Forest walking

My dream weekender

Village walking

Easy paths


Forest walk
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 24th, 2018, 03:38 AM
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A wonderful trip report. I am so enjoying reading about you and yours fathers meandering through Bavaria. What a wonderful trip to be able to do together and connect with family.

We are heading to Nuremberg among other places this December and spending Christmas in Seefeld just over the border from Garmisch. Your pictures are just wonderful and have got me so excited to see this amazing country.
Charnley is offline  
Sep 24th, 2018, 02:18 PM
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Such lovely trips you make, and how nice to have the weekend "off". Did the "elderly" get their trains correctly?

i love that sort of meandering, it's so relaxing.
annhig is offline  
Sep 25th, 2018, 02:10 AM
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Lovely writing, and how nice that you have a parent willing to travel. Neither DH nor I have been able to convince our able-bodied parents to hop across the pond, even to see the grandchildren.

We have walked the Eibsee trail in GAP in both winter and summer, and honestly I don't know which I prefer more, they're both entirely different experiences.

Though we don't consider ourselves "slow travelers," after reading this it seems that our weekend explorations here and there could be compiled into a trip report: "6 Slow Years in Central Europe."
fourfortravel is offline  
Sep 25th, 2018, 11:00 AM
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Day 14:

A festival in Lauf, so wandered along river into town. Lauf has some wonderfully restored historic buildings, a castle, a pedestrian zone, so pretty. Nice atmosphere with food stalls, buskers, lots of people.

Lauf pedestrian zone


Lauf aldstadt

Lauf castle

Lauf castle

Home made plum streusel cake (and recipe to take home).

Back to Nuremberg, the seniors had a successful overnighter, and returned without mishap.

We had a farewell dinner and a stroll to the Volksbad thinking there was some exhibition there, but at 9 pm (on a Sunday night) we came across the entrance and footpath spilling over with people and a ‘silent’ disco. Chatted with a Mongolian woman who had moved to Germany 19 years ago to study mathematics. She speaks Mongolian, Russian, Thai, German, English and some Spanish….

Day 15:

Nuremberg to Munich

I had intended to stop in Regensburg for a few hours visit, but having spent some time with my aunt, I realised it wasn’t a realistic option - she is not a morning person and it all takes too long to get ready (if I told my Dad to be ready by 7am, he’d be at the door, packed, at 6:45am). Not wanting to have her fret, we opted for a late start and direct trip to Munich. Train was packed and I had to be a little unladylike to secure them seats.

Then, arrived at the train station to find all lockers taken with Oktoberfest tourists, so even popping in to the Residenz museum wasn’t on the cards (aunt had a suitcase that weighed something akin to a small car - while our check in luggage weighed 7 kg)

So jumped on an S Bahn and headed to suburbia to my other cousin’s house. Nice reunion with all, lots of chatting, the seniors really animated and had lots of adventures to share.

Having read threads about Airbnb, it was interesting to hear how their son used social media to find himself a room in Berlin for his 3 month uni practical.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 25th, 2018, 11:06 AM
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Charnley, hope you have a wonderful trip.

annhig, all went well, I probably needn’t have worried so much.

fourfortravel, both my parents are quite adventurous, they walked the Maccu Picchu trail in their 60’s, took the Trans Siberian many years ago, have been to China, southern Africa, Alaska - apart from family reasons this trip has been a great experience for Dad as he has always loved travel.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 25th, 2018, 11:18 AM
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Day 16:

Today’s outing was to Herrenchiemsee, King Ludwig II’s palace, that was modelled on Versailles. As it sits on an island, access is by ferry, which adds to the experience. Then a really pretty walk to the palace.

Visit to the interior is by tour only, with the Hall of Mirrors and bedrooms incredibly grand and opulent (no photography, so my shots are from museum).

At the ferry dock

Walk from ferry to palace

Beautiful trees

Gardens at the palace


There was a modern art exhibition, too, some weird stuff, but some fun and more thought provoking.

Self portrait Andy Warhol

Green fluorescent lights apparently “defies visual narration”

I think I have one of these at home

Car body parts, reshaped

A beautiful location, and a very relaxing way to spend a day, so our plan to stop at

Wasserburg am Inn on our return did not eventuate. We sat outdoors with a potato soup and wiener, enjoying the sun and gardens.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 10:50 AM
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Day 17:

Looking for a few days on own...a smallish town with historic centre, river, ...

Options on my wishlist….Regensburg, Burghausen, Oberstdorf, Hall In Tirol.

Chose Hall in Tirol as the mountainous location and aldstadt looked like my kind of place, reading online can see many travellers prefer Innsbruck - which is only 9 mins away by train (more to do, buzzy vibe) - but I like small towns.


Hall in Tirol 2 nights …

Left the seniors to have a few days quiet time together in Munich, while I headed off:

Vaterstetten to Grafing on the S Bahn, then train to Kufstein, change for train to Hall,

€33.50, over 2 hours from Munich.

Lovely train ride

Between Kufstein and Hall

Kufstein monastery

Where I stayed:

Goldener Engl at Unterer Stadtplatz 5, near TI (got my town map on the way).

€81 per night (pre paid via booking.com) while the walk in price is €95.50, for single use of double room with breakfast

A 700 year old building in the historic old town (right on edge of town, so busy street frontage). My room is enormous! Queen bed, chair and desk, tv and cabinet, and an armchair, huge ensuite, too.

Lunched at the hotel restaurant, having a bread dumpling in a veal sauce and cabbage salad and drink (€22). Then ready to explore.

Cute alleys, St Nicholas church, St Magdalen’s chapel (frescoes and memorial to fallen soldiers), the Rathaus, the abbey, the sweet shopfronts with lovely window dressings, a walk up the hill to cemetery and on to Absam, lovely mountains all around.

Rathaus square

Charming alleys

Colourful facades

Colourful facades


The crooked house

Tiny shops, fun strolling and window shopping

Street life

Beautiful facades


View from cemetery



The narrow cobblestones alleys in the old town aren’t actually pedestrian only, but drivers very considerate and careful.

Had an early dinner (at Ristorante Bar Centrale, Schlossergasse 1) - as I am not used to solo travel and dining, my strategy was to eat early so as to not feel awkward. Well, it was lovely. The restaurant/ bar has a nice ambience, the waiter was charming, I didn’t feel at all uncomfortable. Enjoyed a really fresh Greek salad, light and perfectly cooked tagliatelle with Gorgonzola and walnuts, an Aperol Spritz and an espresso (€21.70). Some tiny little bars open in the alleys.

Another new development thanks to my solo mini break...I was in my PJ ‘s at 7 pm. Totally knackered.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 02:14 PM
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Still loving hearing about your adventures and you pictures are wonderful. Never been to Hall in Tirol and I want to go NOW!

A thought about solo dining, of which I've done a lot - having a book [kindle nowadays] or a notebook [sometimesI've wished I had one of those when I've been dining with others!] may stop you feeling awkward. Just look as if you belong, and you will.
annhig is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 02:19 PM
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I am continuing to enjoy your TR! Excuse me if this has been asked and answered earlier, but, what camera (or cell phone) did you use? Your pictures continue to amaze and convince me to make another trip to Bavaria (plus a bit of Austria) and follow in your footsteps. You also have a great eye for framing a picture too!
Dee_Dee is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 09:26 PM
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Thank you both.

dee dee my camera is a Panasonic DMC-FZ200
it’s a little bulkier than my previous, also excellent Panasonic, but this has a longer zoom.
I use it on automatic, so no skill involved. I do like to crop out the ugly bits, though, so take lots and discard where there is too much shadow or not well composed. There’s a lot of rubbish between the good shots! And as we have had a fair bit of time in each location, I have been able to wander back and take more photos when weather improved, so have lots of blue sky.
I found it really hard to get clear, non hazy shots in the mountains last year, I think filters and manual photography required in certain light, so my good ones there were just good luck with light.
Adelaidean is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 10:38 PM
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It's too much. Too many gorgeous towns. Too many interesting alleys. Too many stately churches. Too many curious shops. Too many inviting beer gardens. I want to see it all, and there's just not enough time. So just stop tempting me, wouldja please?

A few days ago I was going to say that your trip report kept getting better and better. . . but now it's simply amazing. I really want to follow your steps! Ah well.

And your photos are going to be a seminar for me in framing and cropping! Such a great eye! I'm really happy to see that you leave it on auto, because I do that too, and I was trying to get out of it. No need now. You're showing how important framing is!

Thanks for this! Or, er.... hate you for this

swandav2000 is offline  
Sep 26th, 2018, 11:00 PM
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It looks lovely!
Nonconformist is offline  

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