I think you will enjoy everything a lot more renting a car--either in Rouen or Paris. The days are short--don't be tied to train schedules. Driving is easy and charming on the back roads.

We took the train to Caen and rented a car and it was not bad driving at all. Not a lot of traffic in May so am sure Dec will be even quieter. I liked it because some of the places we only stayed a short time and others longer. We enjoyed going to the German cemetery and I was on the hunt for other things besides the D-Day sites. Ouistreham was ok, we spent the night there for an early morning ferry ride to England. We stayed three nights in Bayeux and it was very charming and our best meal in France was eaten there. Great seafood at Ouistreham. There is a huge seafood market there and I had these huge scallops.

d not have to worry about train schedules being different on a holiday!>

Well trains that day run pretty much like any Sunday IME - having lived right next to a main rail line - no disruption on Christmas Day or New Year's or any other day - this ain't the UK!

I imagine that you have a good reason to base yourself in Rouen but there are many more convenient locations nearer to your prime objective. In any case, if you get a chance, I highly recommend lunch in one my favourite little towns - Honfleur. Try the seafood platter.

I think your plan to spend a night in Rouen to visit your friend and then move on to Bayeux is a good one. You won't have to navigate the long drive to and from Rouen on the short days you will have in December.

The name of a GREAT private tour guide in Normandy is Ellwood von Siebold. www.ddaybattletours.com or [email protected]. I have toured with him twice.