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3.5 week itinerary for Spain - need help filling in details

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3.5 week itinerary for Spain - need help filling in details

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Old Dec 4th, 2012, 05:47 PM
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You can get non-stop flights from Madrid to San Sebastian [expensive] and San Sebastion to Barcelona [very reasonable on Vueling.com] You could also look at kayak.com

Both flights in air about one hour, plus at least another hour on each end of a flight. So, 3 to 4 hours each flight.

Train Madrid to San Sebastion may work better--not sure.
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Old Dec 4th, 2012, 06:07 PM
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To get from Salamanca to San Sebastian it's probably best via train. In order to fly you'd have to get back to Madrid (3 hours), then get to the airport from the train station, check in at the airport (probably at least an hour in advance for the flight) and then fly an hour to San Sebastian, wait for luggage, then get into San Sebastian from the Hondarribia airport. By the time you go through all of this you might as well have just taken the train from Salamanca to San Sebastian with a transfer in Palencia or Vallodolid (approx 6 hours). Train Madrid to San Sebastian is 5.5 hours at best. But you'd first need to get to Madrid from Salamanca so it would be best to not go via Madrid by train.

There are 2 buses a day Salamanca to San Sebastian but they take between 7-8 hours.

Hence my comment that it's alot of travel to get to San Sebastian for only 3 days - it basically cuts out an entire day.
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Old Dec 4th, 2012, 06:40 PM
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CathyM; It seems like the OP is skipping Salamanca, so that's why I suggested flying Madrid to SS. By dropping Salamanca the OP could add another day in SS or elsewhere.

But your thought about the train gives the OP an idea of time. I think train time is reasonable.

Then there may be a bus.

The flight is expensive.
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Old Dec 4th, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Geez..just saw the note about skipping Salamanca for Toledo. Sorry.

So you will need to get from Madrid to San Sebastian:

-Train is comfortable but 5.5 hours.
-Bus takes nearly the same amount of time - I'd consider if you could get the supra bus which doesn't have as many stops and also is more roomer (like flying premium economy vs economy).
www.alsa.es

-You can also fly from Madrid to San Sebastian. I don't think Vueling flys direct Madrid to San Sebastian - you may have to make a long connection in Barcelona. but I could be wrong. It may be cheaper to fly Madrid to Bilbao and then take the shuttle directly from the Bilbao airport to San Sebastian - it runs frequently and takes an hour, 15 minutes. Note: Vueling has extremely tight luggage restrictions. What could seem like a great fare could become extremely expensive with add on fees for luggage. Given the lengh of your trip you may have alot of luggage.

San Sebastian is a bit out of the way logistically between Madrid and Barcelona. So I'd really suggest adding more time. Salamanca is incredible and the entire old town is an UNESCO World Heritage site....but yes, there's so much to see!
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Old Dec 5th, 2012, 04:46 AM
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I like the idea of taking a bus. Your luggage will be more secure in the locked compartments in the undercarriage of the bus.
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Old Dec 5th, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Thanks all for the travel advice - much appreciated!

I'm starting to plan out more of the details for Seville, but need help picking an area to have an apartment for my 5 nights there. I need it to be easy access to the bus station since I'll be doing 2 day trips (Jerez and Cordoba), plus coming in and out on bus.

The one I like best is located opposite the Fine Arts Museum Square: http://www.vrbo.com/258394wnerprofile. It fits my budget and has great reviews. Thoughts? Would I feel safe from muggings in this neighborhood by myself at night?

Others I'm considering:
http://www.ownersdirect.co.uk/spain/S7061.htm
http://www.only-apartments.com/en/se.../2013,32,1,0,0
http://www.only-apartments.com/en/se.../2013,32,1,0,0
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Old Dec 5th, 2012, 02:27 PM
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My favorite area is El Arenal. It's very central and has a lively tapas bar scene. It's close to everything yet has a neighborhood and local feel. I also like the are around Plaza Alfalfa in El Centro. I spend a week or so in Sevilla every spring traveling solo and have never felt unsafe walking around at night (or during the day).

I'd try sevilla5.com for apartment rentals - used them last year and they were very responsive and professional. The apartments were exactly as they appeared in the photos.
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Old Dec 5th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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I'm starting a fan club called "Spain Travelers Heart CathyM" because you are so helpful - thanks!
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Old Dec 7th, 2012, 03:26 AM
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if you are headed to malaga i would make the journey to marbella and go to Puerto Banus. There are loads of restaurants on the port where you can sit outside, sip wine, and look at all of the luxury yachts. Also you can eat in a few places that have a menu of the day for well under your budget. Or if you dont want to go as far down as Puerto Banus you could always goto the port in Marbella and sit outside, have an amazing view of the sea and enjoy a nice menu of the day. Then after that it is a short walk to old town Marbella where there is cobble stone roads and plenty of little shops.
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Old Dec 7th, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Sounds like a fabulous plan! Close to what I would have done for a roundtrip with the same amount of time after 25 years of intense travel in the country. The Málaga and Antequera part of the trip tells me you know what you're doing...

You've already got loads of great suggestions. I just add some hopefully to the point tips for some of your cities/towns with a focus on laid-back atmosphere, wine and food.

Sevilla:
Start an evening in some of the tapas bars/cafés along Calle Betis in the wonderful and vibrant Triana district on the other side of the Guadalquivir river, a cradle of flamenco culture. Plenty of bars and clubs long into the night in this neighbourhood. http://www.sevilla5.com/activities/goingout/betis.html

Córdoba:
Has got lots more to offer than the obvious tourist atractions such as the Mezquita, the Alcazar etc. Go a little North of the major tourist atractions to find "Roman" Córdoba around central Plaza de las Tendillas with excellent and affordable tabernas on every corner and a much more local atmosphere.

I love Taberna El Gallo in C/Mária Cristina, 6, two minutes from Plaza de las Tendillas, and next door to the Roman temple ruins. Great wines - try the dry Amargoso - and excellent tapas. In one word: Genuine!
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
http://cordobapedia.wikanda.es/wiki/Taberna_El_Gallo

Málaga:
You don't find more laid-back and true Andalucian atmosphere anywhere. Loads of tapas bars, cafés, clubs etc just east and north of central and pedestrian Marqués de Larios street. El Pimpi is an institution in town and a must at night: http://www.bodegabarelpimpi.com/launch_eng.html

Antequera:
I love the bar/restaurant/terrace in the corner of the peaceful square in front of the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, the first partly Renaissance-style church in Spain (built 1514-1550). Up here it's totally peace and quiet. Next to the recently excavated Roman baths beneath and looking up on the 13th century Moorish alcazaba/fortress. Great views over unique landscapes (the spectacular Torcal limestone mountain etc.). http://www.wild-about-travel.com/201...ing-antequera/

Granada:
Perhaps go for the Thursday night performance at Peña Flamenca La Platería, one of the oldest exisiting flamenco clubs in Spain. In the unique Albaycín district close to the center and Plaza Nueva. This would be the real deal, and you could be up for an excperience to remember for very long. Sometimes they also have performances on Saturday nights. The entrance is only some 10-12€ with one drink included. Also a restaurant: http://www.laplateria.org.es/

One of the greatest up and coming flamenco dancers in the world today, Patricia Guerrero, literally grew up here, and the greatest local flamenco artists perform here on a regular basis. This clip gives you an idea of the place and the atmosphere. Here, the extremely popular singer Diana Navarro from Málaga performs. She is not a traditional flamenco singer, but she has a beautiful voice and is fully capable of creating magic: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgPrfjinEgQ

Madrid:
The Madrileños are called "Los Gatos" (the cats) and never goes to sleep. Start a long days journey into the night at hard to find Casa Granada on the 6th floor of an apartment building just off local feel Plaza Tirso de Molina right in the middle of everything. Great terrace: http://www.tripfilms.com/Travel_Vide...ada-Video.html

Watch the sunset over the Guadarrama mountains from the terrace at El Ventorrillo in the Vistillas park. Great pollo al ajillo (garlic chicken), some say the best in town. Map, video and some pictures: http://11870.com/pro/restaurante-ventorrillo

Café Central, just off bustling Plaza Santa Ana, is a fabulous jazz venue with live performances from the best artists every night at 10. Entrance 15€. Good food also. Populart, a little further down the street, is also a great place. http://www.cafecentralmadrid.com/

San Sebastián:
My favourite city on the planet, and I could go on for ages. Shall limit myself to say that you can't do much wrong going for the world famous pintxos in the Parte vieja/Old town. All about, suggested routes etc: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php?lang=en

For nightlife there are several laid-back music bars just behind the cathedral that probably are the best bet in San Sebastián for a really late night out when (if) you are over the disco age. The Reyes Católicos area thus is one of the very the best area for nightlife in San Sebastián (Udaberri, Pokhara, El Nido, Splash etc etc).

Traditional Bar Restaurante Casa Vallés from 1942 is one of my absolute favourites in the city when you get tired of the gourmet hype and in the same area: http://www.barvalles.com/
http://www.frommers.com/destinations...an/D51870.html

I also highly recommend the jazz/blues/funk Bar Be Bop on the seaside in the outskirts of the Parte vieja. The best atmosphere, and often great artists performing here.
http://www.barbebop.com/contacto/

Barcelona:
I very much recommend the Poble Sec district, the small and very local feel area just between Montjuich and Avenida Paral.lel. Great cafés and restaurants, the best atmosphere and several great theaters close by. http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.c...poble-sec.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU3ePGy1_Y0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGb2pcWnJaI
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Old Dec 7th, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Wow amazing post from kimhe.

We were in Spain last year and you may find something useful on my blog, in particular the post on Tapas in Sevilla which will at least make you hungry

http://somuchmoretosee.blogspot.com/search/label/Spain

I never got around to posting on Grenada but one suggestion is to book the first tour of the day at the Alhambra and walk past everyone who enters with you on the timed ticket, continue through the rooms and walk back. This allows you to see some of it on your own, which is a magical experience and quite different. The only difficulty is that you fight the crowds back in the beginning rooms. It may be more manageable in February, though we found it busy last March.

We'll visit Madrid in late Jan between our Portugal and Paris rental, so I can''t comment on it yet but I wouldn't cut out Barcelona. If you like museums and architecture it is a great city, MIro, Gaudi, Picasso etc.

Have you considered a rail pass it may be worth it if you're covering the entire country? I know from looking at prices on Renfe for our trip that train tickets (on the same route) vary enormously in price and it seems discounts are available when booked in advance or if there's still availability at the last minute. Given that you are planning a fixed itinerary it may be worth buying in advance?

Also, one last thought. It may be that you're most interested in the permanent collections only, but it may be worth look at what exhibits are on at particular museums when planning your trip. For example in Madrid I want to make it to the Cartier exhibit at the Thyssen before it ends on Feb 17th and I had this in mind when planning our dates..

http://www.museothyssen.org/microsit.../index_en.html

Hope this helps.
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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What amazing suggestions, kimhe! Thanks!

How does this look for my Southern Spain portion? Any key sites I’m missing or great restaurants I should add in?

Seville
Tues: Arr late in Seville to apt near Fine Arts Museum, tapas nearby
Weds: Triana neighborhood and market, wander old Seville, Dinner at PuraTasca
Thurs: Day trip to Jerez (Harveys of Bristol tour, Lunch: Reino De Leon Gastrobar, González Byass), dinner in Seville at Vinería San Telmo
Fri: Day trip to Cordoba, back to Seville for tapas and then Casa de la Memoria for flamenco
Sat: Alcázar in AM, tapas wandering for dinner and drinks into the wee hours

Malaga:
Sun: Travel to Malaga, Atarazanas Market and snack at nearby café, Walk Paseo del Parque, wander and visit Alcazar, tapas around Calle Larios
Mon: Cathedral, wander the city, Plaza de la Marina for shops and cafes, Walk along the beach: Paseo Marítimo, Dinner: El Tapeo de Cervantes
Tues: AM: Day trip to Antequera

Granada:
Weds: travel to Granada, walk around Old Center, Places of Worship self-guided tour and Shopping at Calle Calderería Nueva, Plaza Nueva area for tapas
Thurs: Alhambra and surrounding area in AM, Lunch at el huerte de Juan Ranas, wander Albayzín area (self-guided walk), Peña Flamenca La Platería
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 02:41 PM
  #33  
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Many of us - and I'm one - think it worth visiting the Alhambra twice, once in the day and then visit the Nasrid Palace again in the evening. I thought it absolutely magical at night! Do book ahead.
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 04:10 PM
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That's a great idea - getting to see it in different light.
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Your plan sounds good! In Sevilla don't miss the Cathedral. The beauty of Sevilla is just wandering around the neighborhoods. In addition to El Arenal and Triana I enjoy the Macarena area. One of the best websites I've found for Seville is ExploreSeville -a wealth of information.

exploreseville.com
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Different lights and different contexts: The night tour is limited to a small number of people; during the day, there may be masses of them with competing tour guides.

As CathyM says, don't miss the cathedral in Sevilla. And don't miss the one in Grenada, either.
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Old Dec 9th, 2012, 11:41 PM
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This site is great for tapas bars/restaurants in Sevilla. Azahar lives there and knows what she's talking about. http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

Here are two great places close to the Fine Arts museum:
Bodega Dos de Mayo: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...a-dos-de-mayo/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
Eslava: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/category/eslava/
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Old Dec 10th, 2012, 04:43 AM
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You have to visit Segovia, it's very close to Madrid and can easily visited in a day trip. There is a train from Madrid, and it takes 20 mins to go there. Segovia is quite famous for the gastronomic tourism, you'll eat good and cheap (while, for example, in Toledo it's not that easy to find this combination). There is a great restaurant in the Plaza Mayor of Segovia (the one where is the town hall and the Cathedral), I think the name is Meson Mayor, but not completely sure, where you can eat for a bout 15$ with everything included (first, second dish, dessert, bread and drink). Usually this offer is valid only for lunch time (between 2pm and 4 pm usually).
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Old Dec 12th, 2012, 07:15 AM
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If you take cathy and kimhe's advice you are almost guaranteed a great trip.
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Old Dec 12th, 2012, 08:58 AM
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Cordoba is great for one night. I know it sounds crazy but the restaurant across from the main church is wonderful, some of the best paella I have had in Spain. Do not take any nights from Barcelona it is my favorite city in Europe, well maybe after Paris. Do not miss the Barcadero (sp) the market just off the Ramblas. Sounds like a great trip.
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