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29 Days in Glorious Greece

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29 Days in Glorious Greece

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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 10:30 AM
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After departing from the amazing Meteora we drove a little over 3 hours on the serpentine mountain roads to the Zagori region. When I was planning the trip I didn't want to backtrack and go back South to get to the Peloponnese. I was looking for someplace to cut what would a be a long days drive into 2 days drive. An area that would be scenic and have enough to do to keep us occupied for a couple days. Zagori sounded like an interesting area to seek out. You never know how these type of decisions will work out. It can be perfect or a bust. In this case it worked out well. Loved the area. Zagori’s mountainous beauty was breathtaking. This seemed to be the old, traditional Greece to me. There are sleepy thousand-year-old hamlets and villages tucked below the pine-clad Pindus Range. The Vikos Gorge is said to be the world’s deepest canyon based on a width-to-depth ratio & it cuts through the area offering several different spectacular views of it. There are centuries old stone bridges to be seen and rocks, more rocks then I have ever seen in my life.

The mgr of the place we stayed, Zagori Suites, provided us with a great map and an in-depth introduction into the area. I'm not sure we would have discovered all we did without her guidance. Aside from the wonderful scenery and interesting villages and castles and bridges, the area had really delicious food. I imagine this area could be a hikers delight. We spent 2 glorious days in this region and thought it an undiscovered gem in NW Greece. We were about an hour from the Albania border and it tempted us to go across the border, but there was so much to see in this little area, we resisted. (Note: Gottravel is my traveling partner)

Pindus Mts

Stone houses

Vikus Gorge

Sunrise through a screen

One of 46 stone villages

Stone bridge - The 18th-century bridges, called gefiri, are concentrated around the village of Kipi

Stone bridge - "These bridges usually have one to three arches called “kamares“ in Greek. One of the most iconic is the three arched bridge of Plakidas, also known as Kalogeriko, near the village of Kipi..."


Stone forest

Incredible rock formations in the Stone forest. They appear to have been placed there.

stacked rocks in the Stone Forest

Cool enough at night for a fire

Gottravel's Ansel Adam's Moon over the Gorge

Road shrines (iconostases or kandilakia) are everywhere in Greece -- some are to commemorate a life saved or a life lost.

Last edited by yestravel; Jun 3rd, 2022 at 10:33 AM.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 11:44 AM
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Thanks for posting. Just saw this and will begin reading tonight. I took a quick glance and noticed you mentioned your IPhone 13. Funny, we have just begun a report after just returning from Sicily. We posted about 1,000 of our 13,000 photos on a Sicily-centered Facebook page during our travel in May. Are than 20,000 "likes." Had many people asking what type of camera we use, and we said IPhone 13. Many said they were heading to the Apple store. Yes, it's remarkable. We had a fancy digital camera the last time we were in Sicily 12 years ago, but security seized my tripod at the Naples airport as a possible weapon (even though t was not a problem in NY or Paris). I look at the quality of those photos vs. our IPhone, and it's night and day. Anyway, we fly to Athens early September until Oct. 12. Only plan so far is 5 nights in Paros to join up with our daughter and new husband. While in Sicily, our distant cousins invited us to help with the family grape harvest late September, so we will give up a chunk of our time in Greece, since flights Athens to Catania are cheap. Your report looks to be a great resource for what to do with any remaining time.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by whitehall
Thanks for posting. Just saw this and will begin reading tonight. I took a quick glance and noticed you mentioned your IPhone 13. Funny, we have just begun a report after just returning from Sicily. We posted about 1,000 of our 13,000 photos on a Sicily-centered Facebook page during our travel in May. Are than 20,000 "likes." Had many people asking what type of camera we use, and we said IPhone 13. Many said they were heading to the Apple store. Yes, it's remarkable. We had a fancy digital camera the last time we were in Sicily 12 years ago, but security seized my tripod at the Naples airport as a possible weapon (even though t was not a problem in NY or Paris). I look at the quality of those photos vs. our IPhone, and it's night and day. Anyway, we fly to Athens early September until Oct. 12. Only plan so far is 5 nights in Paros to join up with our daughter and new husband. While in Sicily, our distant cousins invited us to help with the family grape harvest late September, so we will give up a chunk of our time in Greece, since flights Athens to Catania are cheap. Your report looks to be a great resource for what to do with any remaining time.
Greece has a lot to offer. I hope my TR helps you some. I am not doing an in-depth TR, just hitting the highlights, but happy to a answer any questions you may have.
My husband gave up his camera when he got the iPhone 11 and thinks the 13 is far superior. I don't even know how may photos the 2 of us took. Way too many!

Last edited by yestravel; Jun 3rd, 2022 at 02:03 PM.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 03:58 PM
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A trip like yours is like a waking dream... thank you for sharing, since I shall never get that far...
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Old Jun 4th, 2022, 03:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ebrahimchahardovali1
I would appreciate your help cause I'm planning to visit Santorini soon. any recommendations on the hotel?
We stayed at the Blue Dolphins Apartments in Firostefani on Santorini. Highly recommend. Our room had a balcony overlooking the caldera. Delicious breakfasts for 25 euros for 2 people. Staff delivered breakfast to our room, and we enjoyed it on the balcony. Nikki was very, very helpful. They have a van that will pick you up at the airport, drive you wherever you want to go, such as Oia, and they brought us to the port to catch our ferry to Naxos. Firostefani is less crowded than Oia and Fira but still near many restaurants and cafes.
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Old Jun 4th, 2022, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by travelerjan
A trip like yours is like a waking dream... thank you for sharing, since I shall never get that far...
Yes, it was truly a dream -- Greeks are so warm and welcoming which only made each day more dreamlike.
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Old Jun 4th, 2022, 10:56 AM
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After 2 wonderful days in Zagori & a long drive from northern Greece near the Albanian border, we made it to Olympia in the Peloponnese. The Olympic Games were conducted here for over eleven centuries in Classical times. After checking in to our guesthouse and resting up for a bit, we checked out the Archaeological Museum of Olympia. After the Archaeological Museum, we visited the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games of Antiquity, housed in a wonderful neoclassical building. Other than the long-winded name, it was a delight. Finally we trudged down the long walkway to the site itself -- splendid! I highly recommend checking out the self guided VR tour that you can rent in town. I spaced that and was so disappointed when I remembered. Some other people in the ruins showed me theirs and it was really cool. I have included a photo of where you get it.

Archaia Olympia was another 1 nighter and I was glad of that as the town was not much. I had read that and it was so true. I had tried to stay along the coast but nothing was open until the weekend. We arrived to hordes of school kids who thankfully departed by the time we went out. the owner of the Guesthouse suggested seeing the museums and the site in the late afternoon/evening. He said even first thing in the am its really busy. That's what we did and we had the place practically to ourselves. I read Olympia is the most popular archeological site in Greece.


Lovely roses everywhere in town

Check this out -- it seemed really cool

Museum


Museum

Museum

Museum

Walkway to the stadium

ENtrance to stadium

Olympia

Lion water spouts


In front of the terraces with the treasuries, there was a row of sixteen bronze statues of Zeus, called Zanes, which is the plural of Zeus in the local dialect. They were erected in the fourth century BC and later, with the money of fines imposed upon persons or cities who had been found guilty of corruption in the games.

Sculpture outside the ruins

Last edited by yestravel; Jun 4th, 2022 at 11:15 AM.
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Old Jun 5th, 2022, 12:47 PM
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Moving along -- Not sure anyone is with me, but I continue...
We made our way through the maze of tour buses happy we saw the museums and site and just as happy to be leaving this town behind. First day of driving where we had no place to be at any particular time and could meander as we saw fit. And meander we did. We stopped repeatedly and took photos, enjoying the silence and the beauty of the area. We started following signs to various sites, many closed, but it was all about the journey and not the destination.
Had a lunch in a charming small village, Andritsaina, with a bigger name than village. After lunch we took off determined to find the Temple of Apollo. After the usual winding mountain roads, success! Its been tented since 1987 to protect it from the elements as it is restored. It was in superb condition and splendidly located looking over the valley. So per our usual road trips we turned a 2 hour drive into a 6 hour day & couldn't be happier.

Love our little guesthouse in the mountains with a stellar view and with delightful owner. We would be spending a couple days in Arcadia in the town of picturesque Dimitsana, touted as a land of monasteries, mountains, stone villages and ruins. It purports to be what the Peloponnese is all about and what sets it apart from the rest of Greece. Its popular with the Greeks in the winter -- its about 3 hours from Athens, so easy weekend trip. Again lots of hiking if that's what you are looking for. We originally planned 3 nights here, but the weather forecast was heavy storms each afternoon so we cut it back to just the 2 nights. And storm it did each afternoon.

The road less travelled. If you come to this part of Greece be prepared for lots of serious mountain driving.

Wildflowers continue to dot the landscape making it a riot of colors.

Folk Art

Village

Always men sitting around -- where have all the women gone???

Village was the site of of one of the schools that kept Greek Culture alive during the Turkish occupation. Panayotis Anagastopoulos graduated from it and was a key member of the independence movement.

Temple of Apollo Epikourios (Apollo the Helper). Tenting has been around the temple since 1987 to ,protect it from the elements during reconstruction

The Temple, one of the most important and most imposing temples of antiquity, stands in the bare and rocky landscape of Bassae. The building is dated to 420-400 BC and stunning.

I loved this photo in the lobby of the Guesthouse -- I ws told that its from 100 years ago when females were not allowed out of the house so this young woman tries to peer out.


windows and

doors

Sunset on our first night in Historic Dimitsana
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Old Jun 5th, 2022, 01:58 PM
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I’m still following, as are many others I’m sure, so please go on. We visited Olympia in 2014 and the site, gave me goosebumps, especially that archway. I didn’t get the same feeling at Nemea last month, perhaps because I’d seen Olympia before. The museum too was extremely interesting.

How I wish I could also explore Greece for a month! We’re traveling vicariously with you, so please keep it coming…
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Old Jun 5th, 2022, 02:29 PM
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I almost dread seeing photos of the Temple @ Bassae because it makes me furious all over again, about the British looter, Charles Cockerell that sought it out when it was in almost pristine condition in the Victorian era. One of the party even sketched the interior showing all its glories.He was inspired by the success of Lord Elgin in despoiling he Parthenon. He & his fellow-schemers put a bribe in hands of the local Turkish Pasha, then stripped the interior -- 23 slabs from the frieze alone and sold them at auction where they were bought by -- 3 guesses -- the British Museum. Subsequent visits completed the looting. The same guy did the same thing to the then-99% intact gorgeous temple of Aphaia on Aegina, hacking down & selling off its artworks... most of which are now in a Munich museum. Not only was this looter never chastised, he was regarded as one of the outstanding architects of his time, appointe professor of architecture to the Royal Academy of Arts and in 1848 the 1st recipient oof the Royal Gold Medal. One would think his descendants would change their name to avoid the shame.
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Old Jun 5th, 2022, 06:45 PM
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I'm continuing with you on your journey through Greece too. I'm making notes of your visit for a future trip, especially on and around the Peloponnese.
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Old Jun 6th, 2022, 06:30 AM
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tp & geetika - thanks for letting me know you are following along.
jan -- interesting but horrible backstory. Thanks for sharing I had not read that about the site.

Because of the storm forecast we were only going to have 1 full day in Dimitsana. Since we were not planning on hiking that worked out ok for us.
For the first time in 7 days I did not get into a car. Spent the day exploring our charming village and there was much to see as well as drooling over the stellar scenery.
First we visited the library. We had a lovely woman who walked us thru it and gave us the background.
The Greek School Public Library and Museum in Dimitsanas is the oldest library in Greece. The oldest books are handwritten and date to the 16th Century. The library was founded in the 18th Century to preserve Greek culture during the Ottoman occupation. Its initial library of 4,000 volumes was reduced to about 600 during the Greek War of independence; Dimitsanas was a major gunpowder producer during the war and gunpowder portions for soldiers were stored in twists of paper taken from the books. I’d note that 1821 was not a good year for colonial tyrants. In addition to being the first year of the successful Greek war for independence, it was the last year of the successful Mexican war for independence.
The library acquired new volumes through public donation. The space also serves as a regional museum.
The library’s folklore museum was really interesting. We keep striking out trying to see a folklore museum.
From there we slowly made our way thru the tiny village popping into many of the stores. We left the main town and walked ~3km downhill to the Open Air Water Power Museum, the name alone intrigued me. This relatively new outdoor museum ~1997, gives insight into the early industrial life in the Peloponnese. Lots of good info all translated into English. We saw demos of the grain mill and also the gunpowder mill. There was a video explaining the history of area. The area was a major contributor to making gunpowder for the War for Greek Independence which started in 1821. The librarian talked about the loss of books then as the parchment was used for twists of gunpowder. Since we walked downhill we had to drudge back uphill. We stopped along the way and had lunch. The shop/cafe was getting all set up for the summer season.
After lunch we wandered some more coming across Saint Charalampos Holy Orthodix Church. Just let me say simplicity was not in their decor.

And then the downpours came - it rained and rained and we were happy to just stay put in our lovely guesthouse. That night it was really cold out.

Library

Folklore Museum Crown from the Bishop

Folklore Museum

More windows


View over the town out to the mountains

Walking to the Open Air Power Museum

Tannery at the Open Air Water Powder Museum


Thinking this may have been leftover from Easter?

Simplicity!

At lunch I watched this man cut his grape leaves -- probably making something with them.





And the storms came



A nice sunset

Last edited by yestravel; Jun 6th, 2022 at 06:32 AM.
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Old Jun 6th, 2022, 07:47 AM
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I am also following your excellent trip report. Your photos are stunning!
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Old Jun 6th, 2022, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by HappyTrvlr
I am also following your excellent trip report. Your photos are stunning!
Thank you! Nice to hear that this is being read and hopefully helpful.
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Old Jun 6th, 2022, 02:55 PM
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Also following along!
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Old Jun 6th, 2022, 08:30 PM
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Thanks so much for posting about your holiday, yestravel. It's been great to hear about some new places and revisit old ones with you. We're currently planning to do some hiking from Dimitsana but it looks like buses there are very, very in frequent (best I can find is once a fortnight but hoping to find something better) so might have to get a taxi there.
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Old Jun 7th, 2022, 04:53 AM
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Karen -- thanks -- looking forward to reading about your time in Greece when you have a chance to do a TR.
dreamon, -- thanks for following along -- the hiking in that area looked great. Trails seemed clearly marked with destinations, length and time to hike it and difficulty all listed. My husband has some knee issues with a surgery upcoming, so that was out for us for this trip. I don't even recall seeing any buses in the area. Where would you be coming from?

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Old Jun 7th, 2022, 09:34 AM
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Saturday began like so many others on this wonderful journey with bright, blue, sunny skies. Our room overlooked a cemetery so of course we had to finally check it out before leaving town.

The drive to Stemnitsa was once again along the serpentine roads. Hard to capture what they are like, but they are not for the faint of heart, narrow, rarely a guard rail and extreme drop offs, essentially you are driving on the edge of a precipice.

Stemnitsa was another cute little mountain village with the usual square and ornate church. I saw a sign to the panorama of the town and we figured WTH, lets take the car and go see it. Oh my, not a good idea. After about 5 minutes going straight uphill on a narrow road, the road got about as wide as our little car. We wanted to turn around, but literally no where wide enough to attempt it, so we ventured further and further up the mountain, doubting our sanity with each narrow curve. Alan somehow managed to get the car turned around and it took multiple tries to get it around one curve without scraping the side of the car. We vowed never to do this again…a vow we have made sooo many times before.
We breathed a sigh of relief when we got back down the mountain and continued on our way to the Ancient city of Messene. We went via the Arcadian gate and that was fantastic way to begin our excursion. Messene is often mentioned as one of the less visited sites so it was much to our surprise to pull up and find 6 buses parked. Oh well it was a Saturday and mid afternoon. We weaved our way thru the chaos at the entrance and entered the site. No one was there! It is a terrific site, maybe one of the best preserved. The museum was small and ok, but nothing special.

We continued on our way to our next 3 day location -- sweet Gialova. I want to thank travelerjan for being an advocate of Zoe Resort. It was a great place to spend 3 nights.

Another picture perfect day

Cemetery

Stemnitsa on a Satruday am -- nice town and worth a stop
Church

Serpentine roads not for the faint of heart

Arcadia Gate Messene -- Enter this way

Messene

Messene

Messene

Messene

Quite the greeter to the museum


Statue of Isis Pelagia, protector of sailors

Seren3 Gialova


Gialova

Early sunset from our balcony

What a beautiful ending to the sunset

Nightime in Gialova

We continued on our way to our destination at the seaside for the next 3 nights. Its a cute, laid back beach town, Gialova.

Last edited by yestravel; Jun 7th, 2022 at 09:39 AM.
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Old Jun 7th, 2022, 04:22 PM
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Ohhhh... so wonderful to catch a glimpse of HOtel Zoe. Yes, we all know that one of those horrible International Super-Deluxe "Resort" Monsters has bought a chunk of seafront & acreage to the South end of Gialova beach... but others say it isn't visible from Zoe area, thank god. I love that little Pier - Dock that never has any boats... just provides parking for the locals who bring their kiddies for splash-time. And I see the Lanterns in the Zoe Palm Grove, for dinner lighting. Sigh.

Also glad to see pix of Messine.. which I toured on my first visit to the area. Happy TImes...
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Old Jun 7th, 2022, 04:26 PM
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PS - now, having stayed there, I think you will agree that Zoe is not a "Resort" in the usual sense .... thankfully... just a welcoming, peaceful, well-appointed Swell Place, established and still run by a family that does it right.
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