I will soon be in Madrid for my annual visit . I have enough time for an overnight trip outside the city.
If you have been to Burgos, please share your impressions. Thx.

I thoroughly enjoyed Burgos! The Cathedral is, IMO, quite impressive. As you probably know, it houses a Da Vinci (among other treasures) and it is architecturally fascinating, with glorious stone work and an unusual internal entry staircase. The Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real de las Huelgas has some exquisite textiles among its holdings. And I had a very pleasant walk along the river to the Cartuja de Miraflores, with its impossibly ornate chapel. I think I would have welcomed a visit of a few hours to the Museum of Human Evolution, but unfortunately, I didn't have time.

Post # 7, days 1-2 and then again on day 4.
Four Awesome Weeks in the North of Spain and Catalunya

Hope that helps!

Hi danon,
We love Burgos and now can go often since it's much closer to home, about a 2.5 hour drive. We were there in July, coming down from the Basque Country, and I highly recommend an overnight to take it all in.

As kja notes, the Gothic Cathedral is spectacular, the audio guide in English extremely informative (can take about 2 hours to visit) and will be a lasting memory. We also, as kja did, went out to the Cartuja de Miraflores, in a very peaceful setting in the middle of a forest (we had our car, so didn't walk although the walk looked pleasant). I loved being so close to the altarpiece that one could even touch it, and the museum is very well done.
As kja notes, in town, you also have the Museum of the Evolution of Man, and outside of town the Monasterio de las Huelgas, so there is plenty to see, more than enough for an overnight!

Since you plan on spending the night, I would encourage you to choose the handily located and more recently renovated AC rather than the NH, as the latter, as we found out, although within an historic building, needs an update in its rooms, especially the baths (we opted for a standard room and wished we had booked at our usual AC). Also if your visit is on a weekend, there will be special events in the cloister (weddings, fashion shows, etc) and the noise filters up to the rooms, loudly, until said event stops.

Burgos also has a very lively tapas bar scene at night. Our favorite, is yes, La Favorita at Avellanos 8 and our second favorite, La Quinta del Monje at San Lorenzo at San Lorenzo 21. For dining on Burgos' favorite, iconic dish, the roast suckling lamb, or "lechazo" you have the classic Casa Ojeda at Victoria 5, since 1921. The Burgos province is known for this iconic dish, and here is one of the best places to have it. For a single diner, you can request the chops, chuletillas.
https://www.grupojeda.com/restaurante-ojeda/
https://lafavoritaburgos.com

Or if you want to opt for a Michelin experience we enjoyed Cobo Estratos. We opted for the Tradición rather than the Evolution to avoid a long tasting menu, but it´s widely considered the best fine dining in the city.
https://coboestratos.com

People often ask me which cathedral city on the Camino I like most, Burgos or León. Having been to both very recently, I would say Burgos for its beauty and its more prosperous or "prettified", manicured look, but León for its just very bit as magnificent cathedral with stunning stained glass, which at night will simply take your breath away, and its even more solemn and elaborate Holy Week ceremonies, where we last week started our Holy Week adventure, León, Zamora, Valladolid. It´s all good!

I'm glad La Favorita is still worth recommending! I loved it.

Thank you Maribel and kja.
I was hoping for your input .
The suggestions regarding hotels and restaurants are also very much appreciated.

kja,
So glad you loved La Favorita; we went there for breakfast too. It has such a great vibe and terrific food, including their cheese platter and their jamón.

A bit more info-
The Cartuja de Miraflores, 15th century monastery (open daily but closes at midday), is so worth the walk along the river as kja did or a taxi ride, 4 km. north, because of its incredibly rich interior.
It has both a magnificent polychromed altarpiece by my favorite Flemish sculptor Diego de Siloé, that’s said to have been gilded from the first gold arriving from the New World, and an exquisite, lavishly sculpted alabaster tomb (flamboyant Gothic-it’s a wow!) in the shape of a star with 8 points. It´s also the work of Siloé, which was designed to be the royal pantheon of Queen Isabella la Católica’s parents, Juan II of Castilla and Isabel of Portugal. To the side in the north wall is the tomb of Isabel’s brother, the Infante Alfonso, with his statue kneeled in prayer.His untimely death in 1468 allowed Isabel to claim Castilla’s throne.
Unlike the Monasterio de las Huelgas, the visits here are not guided.
Here are the opening hours:
https://www.cartuja.org/iglesia-y-exposiciones/horarios-y-contacto/

There are two lively tapas zones in Burgos: the area around the cathedral on Sombrerería street and the San Lorenzo zone (also called "Los Herreros") with its neighboring streets, with a more local feel, where we and kja! like La Favorita Taberna Urbana at the end of San Lorenzo, to the left at Calle Avellanos. Casa Pancho at San Lorenzo 13 and La Quinta del Monje at #19 are also on our list. The latter has won awards for its tapas creations.

Unlike León, the Burgos tapas aren´t complimentary with each drink order.

Favorites: the patatas bravas, the tigres (fried mussels battered in their own shell) the morcilla de Burgos (rice filled) served everywhere and at Casa Pancho Bar/Restaurante, the “cojonudo” (chorizo with a quail egg and slice of red pepper on a slice of bread) and the “cojonuda” (with morcilla instead of chorizo).

The AVE station, Rosa Manzano (formerly Rosa de Lima), purpose built, sits 6 kilometers north of town. You’ll want to taxi in. The fare may be between 14-17 euros. AVEs/Alvias from Madrid to Burgos leave from Chamartín.

Hi Maribel,
Very kind of you, thx.
Being a slow traveler , I may consider staying for two nights ( if I can “ give up” another day in Madrid 🙂 )

Hi danon,
I know, I know, giving up a day in Madrid.....sigh! But there´s a lot to enjoy in Burgos, and it´s only, via the fastest train, a 1 hr. 38 min. train ride away. Glad you´re thinking about Burgos. It´s such a lovely city.

Thanks four your support..I booked the AC for two nights..!

Glad you are headed to Burgos. We enjoyed our stay there very much. I think we also stayed at the AC.

Thank you eks…good to hear.

A tapa from Burgos that I love —and that I can't find in Madrid— is 'morro de ternera rebozado' (battered veal snout).

Thank you for the suggestion, sounds like a very different tapa.

I think you'll find two nights in Burgos well worth it, even if it means the loss of a night in Madrid. I hope so!

danon,
Scenes from Burgos...

The city is statue filled; a pilgrim at rest

Resting on the Plaza Mayor

El Arco de Santa María, the 14th century gateway in the city walls

Chestnut vendor

Evening shot

Diego de Siloé's striking altarpiece, Capilla Mayor, Cartuja de Miraflores

The Mausoleo Real, the Flamboyant Gothic tombs of Isabel la Católica's parents, Juan II and Isabel de Portugal, work of Diego de Siloé.

Detail of the Royal Mausoleum, Cartuja de Miraflores

The statue of the prince, Infante Alfonso at prayer, Cartuja de Miraflores

Our favorite Burgos hangout, La Favorita Taberna Urbana--the jamón is Joselito

Don´t miss this place at Calle Avellanos 8



Why we also have breakfast here....

Two classic Burgos tapas

Wow, great photos!

We very much enjoyed Burgos and the Cathedral and agree with preferring a different hotel than the NH; it was ok but I would also choose the AC.

We also have wonderful memories of hot chocolate near the Cathedral! 🤩

Thx for the great photos Maribel. Siloé’s work is incredible.
I hope the electricity outing is resolved soon.

kja. and annw, thank you for the comments.

Yes, the electricity apagón has been resolved, although Renfe´s trains are still not running normally (full service not yet restored), nor are the Cercanías or Cataluña's Rodalies.

One poor passenger was trapped in her train car for a full 26 hours in her quest to reach Albacete via train from Barcelona and had to spend the night (well, attempt to sleep) on the train. Difficult stories abound but also “feel good” stories of neighbors helping neighbors, people living close to Atocha rail station emptying out their refrigerators and distributing food to those stranded at the rail station, even people offering rail passengers a night’s sleep in their homes.We were very, very lucky, caught here at home (free standing home, no elevator needed) with 2 fridges filled with food, plenty of wine and two barbecue grills. But the 86-year old patriarch of our family had to climb 8 flights of steps carrying groceries to reach his Madrid apartment after his mid-morning daily shopping excursion. His son then came to spend the day with the parents. And a friend here on business had to walk from his business meeting in the center city all the way to Barajas airport. Once he arrived they canceled his flight back to Geneva.

Yes, isn't Siloé's work remarkable? (born in Burgos). His work is also found in Granada's cathedral, in its Capilla Real and in the Monasterio de San Jerónimo.

Hi Maribel,
Glad to hear you and other Spanish Fodorites were safe.

I was reading some stories about apagón in the El País and other press.
It is fortunate there were no serious casualties.

My original visit to Madrid was planed for this week ( I had tickets for the Madrid Open), but a month ago I had to move the trip into May. Lucky coincidence.

There is so much beautiful art and architecture in Spain one feels greatful to have the opportunity to enjoy even small
”samples”.
I am not going to mention the food and vino !

I was wondering if you planned, as you sometimes do, to attend the Madrid Open. 22 matches were cancelled yesterday, but it continues as normal today, although it started an hour late.

If you´re coming next week, the lead singer of the Portuguese group, Madredeus, Rodrigo Leão, will performa at the Teatros del Canal on May 6 (but maybe before your arrival?). And there are several May performances there of the yearly Madrid en Danza festival.