2 full days in Coimbra
Apr 8th, 2022, 05:39 PM
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2 full days in Coimbra
We'll have 2 full days in Coimbra, arriving from Porto, going then to Tomar. My original plan was to use one of the full days to visit Aveiro and Costa Nova.
But I'm thinking now to stop on Aveiro on our way to Coimbra, and that opens up another day in Coimbra. What do do?
I'm intrigued about Talasnal and the Schist Villages, but there doesn't seem to be that much info online. Which village or villages to visit? Any recommendation for an easy hike, with nice views? Where to stop for lunch?
Or is there anything else in the area that we should consider? Thanks
But I'm thinking now to stop on Aveiro on our way to Coimbra, and that opens up another day in Coimbra. What do do?
I'm intrigued about Talasnal and the Schist Villages, but there doesn't seem to be that much info online. Which village or villages to visit? Any recommendation for an easy hike, with nice views? Where to stop for lunch?
Or is there anything else in the area that we should consider? Thanks
Apr 8th, 2022, 07:10 PM
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For Coimbra itself, I would focus first on the University. To enter the Joanina library you must have timed tickets, groups of up to 50 are ushered in and given a few minutes to contemplate the library and then are ushered out and no photography is allowed. The most impressive for us, and with photography allowed, was the beautiful chapel.
After touring the University, we headed downhill to the really excellent Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, one of central Portugal's best museums, with a Roman Cryptoporticis in the basement (loved this museum! photos to follow!) and the Old Cathedral and a visit to the market.
Maybe enjoy a session of fado in the evening at Fado ao Centro, the male only version of fado, very different from Lisbon fado, the Lisbon version to me is more "melancholy". But I like fado, and luckily we've seen contempoary artists Mariza and Ana Moura in person here in Seattle.
We also visited the Roman ruins of Conímbriga with beautifully preserved mosaic floors, which took us a couple of hours, for the ruins themselves and the excellent museum. We first checked into our Coimbra hotel, then drove out to the ruins without luggage in the car, so that was our first afternoon, but coming from Tomar, not from Porto. The next day we spent the entire day visiting Coimbra itself, a very full day.
For a lunch stop in Aveiro, you might want to look at O Bairro or one of the places in Costa Nova.
https://portugalconfidential.com/o-b...ine-in-aveiro/
https://www.centerofportugal.com/entity/o-bairro.
We plan to stop to see the candy strip fishermen's huts in Costa Nova in October.
It will be about an hour from Coimbra to the schist village of Talasnal, a great road trip if you have the time, but I don't know if you'll have the time. About hikes there, again, I don't know.
https://www.roadtripsaroundtheworld....lage-portugal/.
https://www.indietraveller.co/schist...s-of-portugal/
Look at Julie Dawn Fox's number 9 hike in Talasnal here:
https://juliedawnfox.com/best-portugal-hiking-trails/
After touring the University, we headed downhill to the really excellent Museu Nacional Machado de Castro, one of central Portugal's best museums, with a Roman Cryptoporticis in the basement (loved this museum! photos to follow!) and the Old Cathedral and a visit to the market.
Maybe enjoy a session of fado in the evening at Fado ao Centro, the male only version of fado, very different from Lisbon fado, the Lisbon version to me is more "melancholy". But I like fado, and luckily we've seen contempoary artists Mariza and Ana Moura in person here in Seattle.
We also visited the Roman ruins of Conímbriga with beautifully preserved mosaic floors, which took us a couple of hours, for the ruins themselves and the excellent museum. We first checked into our Coimbra hotel, then drove out to the ruins without luggage in the car, so that was our first afternoon, but coming from Tomar, not from Porto. The next day we spent the entire day visiting Coimbra itself, a very full day.
For a lunch stop in Aveiro, you might want to look at O Bairro or one of the places in Costa Nova.
https://portugalconfidential.com/o-b...ine-in-aveiro/
https://www.centerofportugal.com/entity/o-bairro.
We plan to stop to see the candy strip fishermen's huts in Costa Nova in October.
It will be about an hour from Coimbra to the schist village of Talasnal, a great road trip if you have the time, but I don't know if you'll have the time. About hikes there, again, I don't know.
https://www.roadtripsaroundtheworld....lage-portugal/.
https://www.indietraveller.co/schist...s-of-portugal/
Look at Julie Dawn Fox's number 9 hike in Talasnal here:
https://juliedawnfox.com/best-portugal-hiking-trails/
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 8th, 2022 at 07:18 PM.
Apr 9th, 2022, 02:40 AM
#3
xyz, we really do think alike! I’m glad you posted this as I was thinking along the same lines! We also have 2 full days in Coimbra and was wondering whether we would do a day trip on one of them, and if so, where. I’m also intrigued by the schist villages, and will leave that as a possible option. I actually saved this link yesterday!
https://nowinportugal.com/exploring-...tral-portugal/
maribel, great suggestions for the city! The museum is right up our alley, too. And I’m so glad you mentioned the Fado ao Centro as that sounds like a great thing to do and I was wondering where Mel went to see a show.
We will also be coming from Tomar - would it make sense to stop off at Conimbriga before arriving or, as you did, drop our luggage and then visit. That will be a definite stop - we love visiting as many Roman ruins as possible.
The question of whether a place is “worth” a visit is, of course, very personal. I’ve looked at Aveiro and it looks like a cute place, and the idea of the Venice-like canals with its pretty boats is appealing, but the city itself doesn’t really call to me and I wondered what I was missing.
3 1/2 weeks to go!
https://nowinportugal.com/exploring-...tral-portugal/
maribel, great suggestions for the city! The museum is right up our alley, too. And I’m so glad you mentioned the Fado ao Centro as that sounds like a great thing to do and I was wondering where Mel went to see a show.
We will also be coming from Tomar - would it make sense to stop off at Conimbriga before arriving or, as you did, drop our luggage and then visit. That will be a definite stop - we love visiting as many Roman ruins as possible.
The question of whether a place is “worth” a visit is, of course, very personal. I’ve looked at Aveiro and it looks like a cute place, and the idea of the Venice-like canals with its pretty boats is appealing, but the city itself doesn’t really call to me and I wondered what I was missing.
3 1/2 weeks to go!
Apr 9th, 2022, 03:18 AM
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Great minds think alike: We also will be spending two days in Coimbra after two days in Tomar in mid May. We always enjoy day trips from our designated stays but this year for the first time in a looooong time we are traveling exclusively by rail. So much easier for day trips with a car. Also this year we are breaking up our 16 nights into shorter stays and I think we can stay fairly enjoyably busy for two full days in Tomar and Coimbra. Although I would love to see the Roman ruins in Conimbriga. We stopped in Aveiro a few years back en route from Viana do Castelo to Figueira do Foz for a brief couple of hours and lunch. It was pretty and the gondolas are pretty cool-good picture taking, but the town itself was not very impressive.
Apr 9th, 2022, 04:45 AM
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Maribel, all of the Coimbra things you mentioned are on the list, and of course, one of the 2 full days will be spent there, with the main attraction the university. Thanks for the fado place recommendation. Do you remember, how big is the Museu Nacional Machado de Castro? How much time should we allocate for it? Need to save time for sardines shopping 😉
We'll stop at Conímbriga on our way to Tomar.
For Aveiro, I was thinking lunch in Costa Nova, but we'll see....O Bairro looks really nice. For me, the main reason to go there are the striped houses in Costa Nova.
Why don't you think we'll have time for the schist village of Talasnal? Here is the "plan"
Sun - pick up car in Porto (airport), drive to Coimbra via Aveiro + Costa Nova
Mon - Coimbra all day
Tue - schist villages
Wed - stop at Conímbriga on the way to Tomar
Are you suggesting we spend both Mon + Tue in Coimbra? Thanks.
We'll stop at Conímbriga on our way to Tomar.
For Aveiro, I was thinking lunch in Costa Nova, but we'll see....O Bairro looks really nice. For me, the main reason to go there are the striped houses in Costa Nova.
Why don't you think we'll have time for the schist village of Talasnal? Here is the "plan"
Sun - pick up car in Porto (airport), drive to Coimbra via Aveiro + Costa Nova
Mon - Coimbra all day
Tue - schist villages
Wed - stop at Conímbriga on the way to Tomar
Are you suggesting we spend both Mon + Tue in Coimbra? Thanks.
Apr 9th, 2022, 09:37 AM
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The Museu Nacional Machado de Castro we just found fascinating and so filled with treasures and spent almost 2 hours there.
We were a wee bit disappointed with our visit to the U. buildings, as we tried to do it on our own rather than with a student (or former student) guide, who could have told us tales of student life and would have brought the buildings more alive to us.
We were a bit "herded" through the Joanina library in a large group with no photos allowed, and we had to wait quite a while to visit the magnificent chapel because of an unexpected private event, but we could photograph there (our photos are coming later) and our traveling companion, an organist, really enjoyed our "unherded" time there.
I know that Go Walks does a walking tour of the University (a former student gives them), which in retrospect, we might have really enjoyed. They also do a. walking tour of Coimbra's Jewish Heritage.
https://www.gowalksportugal.com/coimbra-walking-tours.
I think Mel may have gone to Fado ao Centro, but there's another venue, A Capela.
Fado ao Centro is a good spot and could be combined with a dinner at one of the petiscos spots nearby that I mentioned on her ongoing thread.
progol,
We went first to check in at the Quinta das Lagrimas to unload our luggage then went by car to Conímbriga because the parking lots there are (or weren't) supervised. I had read a TA report, long ago, of a car theft (but just one), but I think we would have been ok. We could have parked as close as possible to the museum, but it was just an added precaution that the 4 of us agreed to take.
xyz99,
I think that's actually a good plan now that I see the details. We stopped on our way from Tomar to Coimbra at one of the schist villages, Casal de São Simão, because it was an easy detour from the A-13.
In Tomar we visited, of course, the Convento de Cristo, the 15th century Gothic church of São João Baptista on the main square and the oldest synagogue in Portugal, built in 1430 (open Wed-Sun), now a small museum. And outside of town, the other Templars Castle of Almoural.
In Tomar "Amor Lusitano" was a charming spot for a light lunch. I had a huge tosta sandwich and a delicious dessert, and the total for lunch for 4 persons was 25 euros! Our friend who has a home outside of town recommended it to us--not on the trodden tourist path.
https://www.amorlusitano.pt.
We were a wee bit disappointed with our visit to the U. buildings, as we tried to do it on our own rather than with a student (or former student) guide, who could have told us tales of student life and would have brought the buildings more alive to us.
We were a bit "herded" through the Joanina library in a large group with no photos allowed, and we had to wait quite a while to visit the magnificent chapel because of an unexpected private event, but we could photograph there (our photos are coming later) and our traveling companion, an organist, really enjoyed our "unherded" time there.
I know that Go Walks does a walking tour of the University (a former student gives them), which in retrospect, we might have really enjoyed. They also do a. walking tour of Coimbra's Jewish Heritage.
https://www.gowalksportugal.com/coimbra-walking-tours.
I think Mel may have gone to Fado ao Centro, but there's another venue, A Capela.
Fado ao Centro is a good spot and could be combined with a dinner at one of the petiscos spots nearby that I mentioned on her ongoing thread.
progol,
We went first to check in at the Quinta das Lagrimas to unload our luggage then went by car to Conímbriga because the parking lots there are (or weren't) supervised. I had read a TA report, long ago, of a car theft (but just one), but I think we would have been ok. We could have parked as close as possible to the museum, but it was just an added precaution that the 4 of us agreed to take.
xyz99,
I think that's actually a good plan now that I see the details. We stopped on our way from Tomar to Coimbra at one of the schist villages, Casal de São Simão, because it was an easy detour from the A-13.
In Tomar we visited, of course, the Convento de Cristo, the 15th century Gothic church of São João Baptista on the main square and the oldest synagogue in Portugal, built in 1430 (open Wed-Sun), now a small museum. And outside of town, the other Templars Castle of Almoural.
In Tomar "Amor Lusitano" was a charming spot for a light lunch. I had a huge tosta sandwich and a delicious dessert, and the total for lunch for 4 persons was 25 euros! Our friend who has a home outside of town recommended it to us--not on the trodden tourist path.
https://www.amorlusitano.pt.
Apr 9th, 2022, 10:23 AM
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I forgot the link for Casal de São Simão-
https://aldeiasdoxisto.pt/en/village/casal-de-são-simão.
And a YouTube video-
The village is less than 2 km away from the freeway, A13. If you’re traveling on it, take the exit number 24 to the IC8, direction Castelo Branco (east).
On the ICB you must get out at “Aguda, Fato” exit. After 200 meters, turn left, where you can already see the traffic signs pointing to Casal de São Simão. If you don’t miss the next sign 1 km ahead (be careful with the road and don’t fall into the cliff), you’ll be at the end of the journey within a minute.
A few photos-
https://aldeiasdoxisto.pt/en/village/casal-de-são-simão.
And a YouTube video-
The village is less than 2 km away from the freeway, A13. If you’re traveling on it, take the exit number 24 to the IC8, direction Castelo Branco (east).
On the ICB you must get out at “Aguda, Fato” exit. After 200 meters, turn left, where you can already see the traffic signs pointing to Casal de São Simão. If you don’t miss the next sign 1 km ahead (be careful with the road and don’t fall into the cliff), you’ll be at the end of the journey within a minute.
A few photos-
Apr 9th, 2022, 10:39 AM
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A photograph "report" of why we loved the Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro. So many reasons, from the views (for free) of the city from its Loggia, to the labyrinth of underground tunnels that remain from Roman Coimbra from 2,000 years ago, a complete 11th c cloister, furniture, life size terracotta sculptures, tile works and on and on...It's housed in a beautiful bishop's palace.
The Bishop's Palace, now Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro and its loggia
The Bishop's Palace, now Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro and its loggia
Apr 9th, 2022, 11:01 AM
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Here are the 2 Coimbra's--the "scruffy" one, and the tidy, manicured one (the Baixa). And views of the city from the Mondego River and our "home", the Quinta das Lagrimas, in the Santa Clara neighborhood.
Coimbra's upper town
The beautiful University
Our lunch stop on the Rua Fernandes Thomas, one of the upper town's
the tidy downtown, Baixa, area
More of the Baixa and here the tuk tuks also do a good business, as they do in Sintra, Lisbon and Porto
Our home, the romantic Quinta das Lagrimas
Coimbra's upper town
The beautiful University
Our lunch stop on the Rua Fernandes Thomas, one of the upper town's
the tidy downtown, Baixa, area
More of the Baixa and here the tuk tuks also do a good business, as they do in Sintra, Lisbon and Porto
Our home, the romantic Quinta das Lagrimas
Apr 9th, 2022, 11:03 AM
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Hmm, I was thinking of doing the U. tour on our own too, but maybe that's not such a good idea. The Go Walks tour includes pretty much everything, except the Aqueduct, so we'll have to do that after on our own.
The lunch place in Toma really looks charming, adding it to the list, thanks!
So in Tomar, we'd have enough time in 1 day for Tomar sites (Convento de Cristo, São João Baptista church, synagogue), AND the Castle of Almoural? Hmmmm
The lunch place in Toma really looks charming, adding it to the list, thanks!
So in Tomar, we'd have enough time in 1 day for Tomar sites (Convento de Cristo, São João Baptista church, synagogue), AND the Castle of Almoural? Hmmmm
Apr 9th, 2022, 11:29 AM
#13
Ohh, Maribel! What beautiful photos! I love the contrast between the gritty and the more polished Coimbra! The university chapel - wow! And the small schist village is so charming. And I love the pix of Conimbriga - especially the shot with the devil in the center! Oh, my heart skipped a beat looking at the museum pix! Amazing!
Thank you, too, for the recs for Tomar. So many good suggestions here!
Many, many thanks!
Thank you, too, for the recs for Tomar. So many good suggestions here!
Many, many thanks!
Last edited by progol; Apr 9th, 2022 at 12:01 PM.
Apr 9th, 2022, 12:10 PM
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My pleasure, progol,
Just a couple more, our lunch at Amor Lusitano, with white wine from the Ribatejo (after our touring, of course, and the 4 of us shared 1 bottle). Tomar's waterwheel
and the very pretty Igreja de São João Baptista with its so pretty Manueline touches (I adore the Manueline architecture--just wait until you see Jerónimos!)
Just a couple more, our lunch at Amor Lusitano, with white wine from the Ribatejo (after our touring, of course, and the 4 of us shared 1 bottle). Tomar's waterwheel
and the very pretty Igreja de São João Baptista with its so pretty Manueline touches (I adore the Manueline architecture--just wait until you see Jerónimos!)
Apr 9th, 2022, 12:17 PM
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xyz99,
We stopped at the Castle of Almoural on our way into Tomar, not on our full Tomar touring day. Again, we got up early on our full touring day to get to the Convento de Cristo before the bus crowds arrived. My BFF and I had to share an audio guide as they only had 1 available in English, but I hope that's changed.
We stopped at the Castle of Almoural on our way into Tomar, not on our full Tomar touring day. Again, we got up early on our full touring day to get to the Convento de Cristo before the bus crowds arrived. My BFF and I had to share an audio guide as they only had 1 available in English, but I hope that's changed.
Apr 9th, 2022, 01:07 PM
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From my 2006 trip report:
That evening we drove to Mealhada for a meal of roast suckling pig at Pedro Dos Leitão. It took a few tries to get to the restaurant, because the directions given in http://tinyurl.com/pq376 were somewhat unclear. Coming from the south, the restaurant is located at the fifth or sixth roundabout on IC2 aka rte. 1; it is well north of the town center. There is nothing fancy about this place. It is mass production, with four or five ovens in full view when one walks in. The piglets are placed on a long spear and placed in the enclosed ovens. The dining room is a great big room with the servers mainly women of a certain age, but there is a maître d' who speaks English. He recommended the Pedro Dos Leitão special, which is roast suckling pig charged by the kilo, fried potatoes which are essentially hot fresh potato chips and a salad. He also recommended the dry sparkling white, which worked well with the meal. The pork was delicious, as were the potatoes. This is a family place, obviously patronized by people in the local area.
Or for a quick lunch in the lower part of the town in Coimbra:
https://flic.kr/p/2gxvfdZ
That evening we drove to Mealhada for a meal of roast suckling pig at Pedro Dos Leitão. It took a few tries to get to the restaurant, because the directions given in http://tinyurl.com/pq376 were somewhat unclear. Coming from the south, the restaurant is located at the fifth or sixth roundabout on IC2 aka rte. 1; it is well north of the town center. There is nothing fancy about this place. It is mass production, with four or five ovens in full view when one walks in. The piglets are placed on a long spear and placed in the enclosed ovens. The dining room is a great big room with the servers mainly women of a certain age, but there is a maître d' who speaks English. He recommended the Pedro Dos Leitão special, which is roast suckling pig charged by the kilo, fried potatoes which are essentially hot fresh potato chips and a salad. He also recommended the dry sparkling white, which worked well with the meal. The pork was delicious, as were the potatoes. This is a family place, obviously patronized by people in the local area.
Or for a quick lunch in the lower part of the town in Coimbra:
https://flic.kr/p/2gxvfdZ
Apr 9th, 2022, 01:16 PM
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xyz99,
We stopped at the Castle of Almoural on our way into Tomar, not on our full Tomar touring day. Again, we got up early on our full touring day to get to the Convento de Cristo before the bus crowds arrived. My BFF and I had to share an audio guide as they only had 1 available in English, but I hope that's changed.
We stopped at the Castle of Almoural on our way into Tomar, not on our full Tomar touring day. Again, we got up early on our full touring day to get to the Convento de Cristo before the bus crowds arrived. My BFF and I had to share an audio guide as they only had 1 available in English, but I hope that's changed.
Option 1:
Wed - From Coimbra to Tomar, via Conimbriga - PM Tomar visit. Will the Convent of Christ be very busy in the afternoon in Oct?
Thu - Obidos day trip
Fri - the 2 monasteries
Option 2:
Wed - From Coimbra to Tomar, via Conimbriga and stop in Obidos
Thu - Tomar all day
Fri - the 2 monasteries
I'm not a big fan of leaving the car in a parking lot with all out belongings in, so I don't really like option 2. What do you think?
Apr 9th, 2022, 01:34 PM
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Although I'm not a fan of leaving the car in the outdoor parking lot at the Conímbriga ruins, I would actually email the Museum to ask if the parking lots are now secure.
Option 2 would be better for me (but I'm not you two!), since I wouldn't want to spend the entire day in Obidos
but...
Option 1, if you combine Obidos with Caldas da Rainha and the beach at Foz do Arelho (to the north) or the fishing village of Peniche (to the west), that could make for a nice day. I don't know how busy the Convento de Cristo would be in the late afternoon, but the bus tours will be long gone, I imagine.
I'm going to give Obidos another try in October, since we will have a week on the Silver Coast. We're renting an apartment in Nadadouro, near Foz do Arelho, so that we can explore all of the coast. It will be a danger to my pocketbook, since I plan to stop at the Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics factory store in Caldas da Rainha.
About that roast suckling pig in Mealhada, Portugal's home of the leitão asado, the Rei dos Leitões restaurant there just won a "Platinum Fork" award, the highest award from Portugal's food and lodging guide, Boa Cama, Boa Mesa (that I heavily depend on, like the Repsol Guide for Spain). The restaurant is legendary. Been on my "must try" list for quite a while to compare the Mealhada version to Segovia's. It's 25 min. north of Coimbra and may be the restaurant that the Quinta das Lagrimas sent HappyTravlr to on her visit or another one in Mealhada, such as the one where Michael ate.
Option 2 would be better for me (but I'm not you two!), since I wouldn't want to spend the entire day in Obidos
but...
Option 1, if you combine Obidos with Caldas da Rainha and the beach at Foz do Arelho (to the north) or the fishing village of Peniche (to the west), that could make for a nice day. I don't know how busy the Convento de Cristo would be in the late afternoon, but the bus tours will be long gone, I imagine.
I'm going to give Obidos another try in October, since we will have a week on the Silver Coast. We're renting an apartment in Nadadouro, near Foz do Arelho, so that we can explore all of the coast. It will be a danger to my pocketbook, since I plan to stop at the Bordallo Pinheiro ceramics factory store in Caldas da Rainha.
About that roast suckling pig in Mealhada, Portugal's home of the leitão asado, the Rei dos Leitões restaurant there just won a "Platinum Fork" award, the highest award from Portugal's food and lodging guide, Boa Cama, Boa Mesa (that I heavily depend on, like the Repsol Guide for Spain). The restaurant is legendary. Been on my "must try" list for quite a while to compare the Mealhada version to Segovia's. It's 25 min. north of Coimbra and may be the restaurant that the Quinta das Lagrimas sent HappyTravlr to on her visit or another one in Mealhada, such as the one where Michael ate.
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 9th, 2022 at 02:01 PM.
Apr 9th, 2022, 02:40 PM
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About leaving the stuff in the car, it's not Conímbriga that worries me, but Obidos. A lot more people there...
And still, I like option #2 better. I'm sure a full day in Tomar would be better than just 1/2 day. I think we'll risk the stuff in the car. We carry valuables with us (passports, money and my camera), but if "they" take our clothes, that would not be pretty.
And still, I like option #2 better. I'm sure a full day in Tomar would be better than just 1/2 day. I think we'll risk the stuff in the car. We carry valuables with us (passports, money and my camera), but if "they" take our clothes, that would not be pretty.
