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1st leg: Paris

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Old Oct 27th, 2012, 04:14 PM
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I stayed in that apartment several years ago and really enjoyed the apartment and the neighborhood. If all the people from this message board who stayed in that apartment got together, it would be quite a gathering.
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Old Oct 27th, 2012, 05:02 PM
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Excellent report, cindyjo.
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Old Oct 27th, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Thanks for the report cindyjo, and the head's up about the construction noise. DH won't be happy...we're headed to that very apartment next week!
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Old Oct 28th, 2012, 02:43 AM
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can you get some ear-plugs, Iregeo?
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Old Oct 29th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Well, it feels as we have been north, south, east and west in the last few days. Weather continues to hold with grey mornings and clearing afternoons. Tonight it is a beautiful full moon.

Saturday morning we made our way to the Marche Bio des Batignolles and enjoyed people watching as well as buying vegies for our last few days. Bought a potato/pancake from a young man making them as fast as he could. Again we found trying a bit of French often paves the way for a nice interaction. He told us of his car trip across the United States from Boston to Los Angeles with points inbetween. Or at least I think that is what he said to us! We decided to visit the cheese shop in rue Levis again. I was a bit intimated at the cheese stand at the marche. The lines were long and I knew I had to be ready with my choice and the cash which makes me nervous and those nice folks at Androuet sur la Pouce were so helpful. Had the same good experience there again.
Home again to Rue Truffaut to drop off our groceries and organize for our trip to Monparnase. We took the Metro Line 13 all the way to Gare Monparnasse and spotted the Tour across the street. We pretty much walked right in. No lines. Took the fast elevator to the 59th floor and stepped out to a fabulous view of Paris. All the major sights of Paris in a 360 degree view. We have enjoyed the view from the Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame but did not want to fight the crowds this time
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Old Oct 29th, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Oops, hit the submit button......

Anyway, would recommend the Monparnasse tower for a wonderful view of all of Paris.

We walked to Bistrot du Dome, 1 rue Delambre for a 2:30 lunch reservation. The place was filled when we arrived and empty when we left. It was a delicious meal. Fortified with fish, we spent the rest of the daylight walking through the Monparnasse Cemetary where we visited Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, Saint Saens, Susan Sontag and Man Ray. Back to Chez Truffaut for bread and cheese for dinner.

Here is an observation with a question. We are from Seattle where it is often grey and rainy. We have noticed that the temperature in Paris may be the same as Seattle but feels tres tres colder. does this have something to do with proximity to the Atlantic vs Pacific?

Iregeo, the noise is over promptly at 4pm and most likely you will be out and about during most of the work. Do bring slippers or warm socks. The apartment is warm but the wooden floor is a bit chilly in bare feet. Also take care as the floor is a little slippery in socks. No complaints though, it is a great place.

Latedaytraveler, totally entralled with the McCullough book.

Next up Pompidou, Victor Hugo, and a walk in the Marais making us grateful to be in the 17th.
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Old Oct 30th, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Addendum to our Monparnasse day: A visit to Fondation Jacques Cartier Bresson for an exhibit by Moi Wer entitled Ci-Contre. The photographic techniques used to superimpose images were no doubt ground breaking but the photos that held my interest were those of the lives of workers in the early 1930s. No picnic to be a blue collar worker in those days. We had to laugh again at a CNN clip seen the night before of scion of industry justifying his wealth by complaining about how hard he works. He needs to see these photos......

Sunday: On our way to,the Pompidou we passed Eglise St. Nicolas just as mass was ending. We were surprised at the full to capacity service and smiled to see a pile of little scooters surrounding one of the huge stone pillars inside the church, even bigger smiles as we watched the kids ride their scooters down the aisles toward their parents!
Got to the Pompidou at opening. No lines, no crowds. I know there are those who have a low opinion of the Pompidou, but we love it. The museum is easy to navigate and we like the artistic timeline broken into 2 floors. But what we really love is the juxtaposition of inside art on the walls and the outside art of the Paris skyline. I do think the building is ugly from the outside but it was a stroke of genious to place the escalators outside of the building, blurring the outside/inside space.
Many of the installations make us smile and sometimes laugh but there is plenty to love. I especially like the Chagall pieces, the Matisse gouaches decoupee and the various outside sculptures. Adel Abdessemed's floating skeleton and Kadar Attia's ghosts and Cy Twombley's unnamed spire will be remembered from this visit.

We spent 2-3 hours in the museum and then walked toward the Marais with my destination Pylones on rue
de la St. Croix de la Bretonnerie. Great inexpensive shop for grandchildren presents. Bought a crepe on the street to tide us over and made our way through the throngs to Place de Vosges. We sat on a bench watching parents watching their kids playing in the large sandbox and then walked over to Maison de Victor Hugo. My husband's father was named after him by his mother who revered the author. Visiting the maison was an homage to them both as well as an interesting experience in itself. And the site is free!

Home by Metro and made a lovely dinner with the produce from the Marche on Saturday. Caught up on the presidential race and the upcoming Sandy Storm. Tomorrow we will learn how to recharge our Navigo passes and endure the perspiration inducing experience of purchasing a sim card for my ipad from Orange. Also planning to visit The Memorial de la Shoah.
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Old Oct 30th, 2012, 08:24 AM
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Here is an observation with a question. We are from Seattle where it is often grey and rainy. We have noticed that the temperature in Paris may be the same as Seattle but feels tres tres colder. does this have something to do with proximity to the Atlantic vs Pacific?>>

cindyjo - i think it's more to do with maritime [which are warmer and wetter] as opposed to continental climates [which have greater extremes of temperature] I know that Paris is not exactly in the middle of a land mass, but it is much more "continental" then Seattle [if my geography is any good]. any way, i know what you mean about Paris being cold - my DH worked there one spring, and the weekends I went to visit him are some of the coldest I can remember.
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Old Oct 30th, 2012, 10:21 AM
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I think it might be more a case of knowing how, when and where to take cover when necessary in one's home city. I have been chilled to the bone in both Seattle and Vancouver simply because I did not know where to go to warm up on a damp chilly rainy day (I have even been to Vancouver in the snow, and that is apparently a rare event!).
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Old Oct 30th, 2012, 11:41 AM
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very true, kerouac. DH was staying in a cheap hotel in the 19th and i don't think he ever got warm there [except when I was staying of course!]
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Old Oct 31st, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Monday: after spending the morning tidying up the apartment and doing some reading, we walked to Clichy to the nearby Orange store. It was a positive experience although by the time we left I had sweat running down the small of my back. I wanted a French sim card for my ipad. I approached a young man at the counter and asked my usual "Parlez vous anglais, monsieur?". He answered me as several youth have answered "Parlez vous francais"? Having a 28 year old I recognize the cockiness of a twenty something when I see it. But after attempting my pauvre French, he warmed up and made a very concerted effort to help us. Yes, you must call to recharge your sim after 48 hours. We ended up buying 2 eight euro sims to last long enough to get us through this leg. My French is definitely not good enough for automated telephone conversations so we figured we could do the recharge with the help of our British landlords in the Dordogne. Next was our Navigo recharge from the same nice Metro worker at Place de Clichy. Easy peasy.

We then caught the Metro to St. Paul and meandered around this area which we have always liked, very quiet on a Monday. In the little antique square owners were sitting outside polishing their silver in the sunshine. We crossed the river to l'isle de Louis and had an ice cream for lunch "Why not? We're on vacation" has become our refrain.
We stopped at BHV to do a bricollage walk through. My husband found the perfect big hinges for our barn door: Right size, color, look. Too bad he had to modify ugly ones last spring after looking high and low in the states. Also made a trip to the drapery department for silk tassel purchase for my 10 year old grandaughter. This makes a great gift for a tween girl just beginning to seek the solitude of her own room. She hangs them from her door.

The last 2 visits to Paris we managed to miss openings of the Shoah Memorial and this was a priority for this visit. The memorial is the result of incredible research with a focus not only on the historical context of the Holocaust but on the personal stories of those who were lost, those who survived and those who resisted. We spent 2 emotionally exhauting hours there. I am sure that those who pass through this memorial will "never forget".

Needing to walk off the intensity of the experience we made our way through the backstreets around rue Rivoli to Bastille and then by subway to Oberkamph where we had dinner at Soya, 20 rue de la Peree. Great vegetarian restaurant with friendly staff who are willing to trade English and French back and forth. Metro home to catch up on Sandy. Hoping any readers from the area affected are out of harm's way.

It already appears we won't be able to finish our To Do list this visit. Doesn't seem to matter because we are having a great time. And I have to say, it is heavenly coming home to rue Truffaut every evening.

If all goes well, tomorrow we will hit the Louvre Arts Decoratifs thanks to Nukesafe's trip report.
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Old Oct 31st, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Cindyjo, you wrote re Shoah Memorial:

“The memorial is the result of incredible research with a focus not only on the historical context of the Holocaust but on the personal stories of those who were lost, those who survived and those who resisted.”

Since we talked books earlier, may I suggest one to read when you return? BAD FAITH, A Forgotten History of Family, Fatherland, and Vichy France by Carmen Cahill. Rather hefty, it tells the story of one of history’s most despicable villains and con men—Louis Darquier de Pellepoix, Nazi collaborator and “Commissioner for Jewish Affairs,” who managed the Vichy government’s dirty work, “controlling” its Jewish population.

I have a particular interest in the machinations of the Nazi occupation in France during WWII. Love SUITE FRANCAIS.

On a lighter note, I really enjoyed the Victor Hugo Museum in the Place des Vosges – especially the view from the top floor of the “square” below – wow!

Continuing to enjoy your great trip report…
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Old Oct 31st, 2012, 05:04 PM
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cindyjo, we made it home, safe and sound. It was a good week.

You have certainly been off the beaten path on this trip! It is a pleasure to read your report.
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 06:37 AM
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TTT
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Tuesday: Slow morning and lunch again at Joy of Food at the corner of rue Truffaut and rue des Dames. We like it very much. Had read Nukesafe's trip report and we were excited to visit The Arts Decoratif at the Louvre. Disappointed that the line was huge so headed for the Rodin, one of our favorite museums in Paris. We walked past the horrendous crowds at the Musee d'Orsay and wandered through the 6th doing some window shopping. The crowds at the Rodin were manageable and entry took just minutes. For those on their way to Paris, the gardens close at 5pm. The changes in the museum are for the better with a lovely entry and exhibition of pieces in marble as well as an improved boutique. We did miss some favorite pieces, either the museum is still in repair or they are on loan. The garden was outstanding with rose blooms still framing The Thinker. We thorougly enjoyed our visit. We headed back to the 17em to do some grocery shopping for dinner. All in all a lovely day after the disappointment of missing our primary destination.

Wednesday: Determined to see,the Arts Decoratif, we got moving early and arrived at the Louvre around 10am. i enjoyed being the only one in line for awhile, feeling somewhat relevant as I answered "onze heures" to the folks asking me about the opening. A father and son joined me. We laughed as they had tried to attend yesterday as well and were determined to be in the front of the line today. They took the train from the Netherlands and were in Paris for a few days holiday. We had a very nice conversation (of course they were fluent in English). Upon entering we headed to the Van Cleef and Arpels exhibition which was beautifully displayed. One of the best parts of the exhibition was a short film on the process of concept, design and manufacture of pieces of jewelry. It was subtitled in English and very interesting to someone who knows very little about the art form.
We wandered through the museum enjoying the floors 1-3 with the exception of the Star Wars exhibit. Disappointed to see that the two floors devoted to Fashion were closed for preparations for a new exhibit. After going around in circles trying to find our way to,the upper floors to view the furniture, I sought help from the Information Desk........STRIKE. Those floors would not be open that afternoon and to add insult to injury, entrance was now free to the musee due to the strike! We were, of course, again disappointed but realize this is Paris and one has to accept strikes. A few years back, we were turned away from a highly anticipated performance at Opera Garnier - STRIKE. I did talk with the clerk at the Boutique at the Musee. She apologized for the inconvenience but said she supports the strike as she "doesn't make such a good salary".

We had lunch midway through our visit at Le Saut de Loup at the museum and it was very good. We sat outside as it was beautiful clear and warm for an end of October day. What an incredible setting to have a delicious lunch. A whitefish perfectly cooked with mashed sweet potatoes, a glass of wine and a trio of desserts with a cafe for 19 euros. A delicious bargain. Who would have thought? We also had a laugh at the maitre d' running around with a squirt bottle aimed at the pigeons trying to sneak a bite from the plates of unsuspecting diners.
We spent a couple of hours walking through the Tuileries, admiring the last of the garden blooms and the kids with their little boats on the water. We admired the Pyramid, loving the juxtaposition to the grounds of the Louvre. Yes, we really do like it and cannot imagine anything else in it's spot.
Walked to Notre Dame and got there just as the bells began to ring. This was a first for me and quite an acoustical thrill. We lined up for the slow march into,the church and stayed for mass. We are not affiliated with a religion but appreciate the faith of others and very much enjoy liturgical music. We did not make it to a concert this trip despite our best intentions and were happy to experience music in this beautiful space. Home again to rue Truffaut for dinner and a plan for our last day in Paris.
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Thursday: Last day in Paris....awoke to rain. Decided last night to head to St. Denis today to see the Basilica. What a good decision that was!
We caught the Metro 13 at Place de Clichy for the 15-20 minute to St. Denis. As we came up the stairs a huge storm blew through with high wind and a downpour of rain and hail. We took cover along with many laughing and shouting Parisians and waited a few minutes until it blew through. A huge market was underway in the square area, and I mean huge. We strolled through but didn't buy anything. But now I know where to come to buy socks when I need them.

What can I say about St. Denis Basilica? It knocked our socks off! How did we never visit this church before. It is magnificant. It should be on everyone's list who visits Paris. The architecture, the stained glass, the rainbows cast upon the stone pillars from the sun streaming through the glass, the necropolis with the remains of royalty including Clovis.......Clovis! We were awed. The audio guide is an extra expense but well worth it as it gives historical context to the Basilica and those who are buried there.

Please don't be put off by the comments you may read about the safety of the neighborhood. Just folks living their lives as far as I could see.

As an aside: In researching our trek to St. Denis, I read an old Fodors post recommending a Nova program: Building the Great Cathedrals. We downloaded it last night and watched before heading to the Basilica. I am so glad we did. It added to,our appreciation of gothic architecture.

Had our our last meal in Paris (pad thai at Aux Colouers du Monde at the end of Truffaut. Tasted great.) Now home to pack up for our train ride to start our week in the Dordogne. Had a grand time in Paris and will miss this great apartment. Thanks to all who took the time to read this report. I hope it may be of help in some small way to those planning a trip or reliving a past one.
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 02:47 PM
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I am reading this in anticipation of our 6th trip to Paris in March. We leave 4 months from today and we are just as excited as if it were our first time. We are going to Rome and Sicily again also. But there is just something special for my husband and I about Paris, some kind of magic.

We went to Paris for Christmas last year and made a trip to St. Denis also. We thought it was magnificent. I was a little worried after reading a few comments about the safety of the surrounding area also. We had no problems and thoroughly went through the market that was set up. I bought a scarf and we looked at stalls for a good while. At one point we heard the Cee Lo song "Forget You", but the original version, blaring from someones boom box. We just looked at each other and said CeeLo and cracked up laughing.
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 03:52 PM
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I really enjoyed your trip, and it sounds like you did too. Thanks for sharing it.
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Old Nov 1st, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Great report, cindyjo. That was a really impressive storm yesterday -- I was in the gardens of Saint Germain-en-Laye and nearly didn't make it to the RER in time!
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Old Nov 2nd, 2012, 04:29 AM
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Thank you for your really interesting report. I have made notes about an area that I do not know for my trip in May 2013.
Looding forward to your next report.
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