alwaysafrica

I know it looks like I skipped Day 17. Actually it was just a typo : ) Our last day is day 17 (not day 18. It would only have been day 18 if I included our travel day from Toronto as day 1, which I didn't this time around). Just thought I'd clarify : )

janisj

Looks good - just a couple of quick comments since I'm walking out the door . . .

Your day 2 is very difficult. The castle and museum of Scotland p,us the Royal mile will take most of the day not leaving much time for Arthur's Seat. Though it will be light late so maybe walk up after dinner.

Don't count on Kilchurn (one of my faves) because public access has been denied the last couple of years. The order would be Castle Campbell, Stirling, Doune (another busy day but doable)

And don't bother visiting (inside) Eilean Donan, just stop for the terrific photo OP. you will have visited several much more interesting castles.

Good choice for Kildrummy . . .

alwaysafrica

Thanks janisj. I included all of those things on Day 2, but really we can do some on day 1 too (we should be in the city from the airport by 3:00 or 4:00). I know we'll be tired, but likely also very excited to have arrived and wanting to get started on exploring. Hopefully that will help...

alwaysafrica

Hi everyone!

After tweaking our initial itinerary earlier in this thread, my hubbie and I have spent the last month researching our trip like crazy and have come up with a much more detailed itinerary! As travellers, we generally like to have our days planned out (and because of our son’s nut allergy, we need to have our restaurant meals planned out for the most part too). We figure that we’re going to be spending approx. 13 hours a day out and about (yes, we like to keep busy : ) and so the days are full, but of course we also want to make sure that we’re being realistic.

The updated/detailed itinerary is below and once again, I’d love any opinions and suggestions. If there are any opinions as to spots where the timing may not work, or where we may be doing things in the wrong order, it’d be great to know. If there are any opinions about the restaurants and/or hikes we’ve chosen (or haven't!), we’d love to hear them too. And in a few places, we haven’t completely decided on things yet — but I really wanted to get this out for critique. So there are a few questions in there too and where I haven’t listed any restaurant possibilities yet, we’d love to hear any that you may recommend!

Thanks again for ALL of your help (and sorry again that it's such a long post - but it's a long trip after all!) — couldn’t do it without you guys!
Jenn

Day 1: Arrival/Edinburgh: Arrive in Edinburgh at 1:00pm. Lunch at Oink Scottish Hog Roast. Rest of the day in Edinburgh — walk up the Royal Mile. Dinner at the Doric Tavern. Hike Arthur’s Seat in the evening (if too tired, postpone to day 2).
Overnight in condo at the bottom end of the Royal Mile (near Holyrood).

Day 2: Edinburgh: Breakfast at the condo. Start the day off at Edinburgh Castle. Lunch at Makar’s Mash Gourmet. Short visit to the National Gallery of Scotland. Keep exploring the Royal Mile (St. Giles, etc.). Dinner at Mum’s Comfort Food.
2nd overnight in condo at end of Royal Mile.

Day 3: Stirling/Trossachs: Go back to EDI to pick up rental car. Visit Castle Campbell. Continue onto Stirling — eat lunch at the Birds n’ Bees or Smiling Jacks (any opinions?). Visit the National Wallace Monument (decided against Stirling castle for this trip, given that we’ll have just seen Edinburgh Castle which is similar and that the Wallace Monument seems to have a lot to see). Continue on to Doune Castle. Dinner at Scott’s Bistro in Tigh Mor. Evening hike (if there’s time) to Bracklinn Falls (1-1.5 hour hike).
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Brig O' Turk.

Day 4: Trossachs: Breakfast in the cabin. Morning hike of Ben A’an (3-hour hike; unless it’s bad weather, then postpone to next day). Drive Duke’s Pass through Aberfoyle to Loch Lomond area. Lunch at Clachan Inn in Drymen? Hike Conic Hill near Balmaha (2-3 hour hike). Dinner at Faerie Tree Inn in Aberfoyle.
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Brig O' Turk.

Day 5: Trossachs to Glencoe: Breakfast in the cabin. Drive to Balquhidder — hike Creag an Tuirc (1.5 hour hike). Lunch at MHOR Fish in Balquhidder. Drive towards Glen Coe, drive along Glen Etive (2 hours) and explore the Glen Coe area generally while enroute. Devil’s Staircase hike (2 hour hike).
Dinner and overnight in a cabin at the Hollytree Hotel (and a swim in the pool : )).

Day 6: Explore Glen Coe. Breakfast at the cabin. Hike the Pap of Glencoe. Picnic lunch. Afternoon boat trip - 1 hour Wildlife Tour of Loch Leven (Sea Explorers). Visit Glencoe Village. Dinner at Glencoe Gathering or Lochleven Seafood Cafe (any opinions/preferences?). Evening hike of Steall Falls and the Nevis Gorge (1.5-2 hour hike).
Overnight in a cabin at the Hollytree Hotel (and a swim in the pool : )).

Day 7: Road to the Isles and to Skye: Breakfast at the hotel/cabin. Drive through Fort William; stop for a visit at Treasures of the Earth store (our eldest son is very into rocks and minerals : )). Explore the Road to the Isles (e.g. coast from Arisaig to Morar, Traigh Beach, Glenfinnan Monument, Loch Nan Uamh Viaduct, Rhumach Trail to see the seals) — thoughts any other most memorable stopping points would be great. Afternoon ferry to Armadale on Skye (1:30 or 2:00 departure). Hike to Dun Scaith Castle in the south (1 hour hike). Drive up to Uig (stop to photograph Sligachan bridge on the way).
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Uig.

Day 8: Explore Skye. Start at the Skye Museum of Island Life (opens at 9:30am). Next, hike the Quiraing (2.5-3 hour hike). Picnic lunch while hiking (or maybe Skye Pie Cafe). Stop at Kilt Rock/Mealt Falls viewpoint. Hike to the Old Man of Storr (2.5 hour hike). Explore Portree harbour and have dinner in Portree. We would like to see some live music on one of the nights during dinner — the option would be Portree Hotel on Day 8 or the Edinbane Inn on Day 9 — any opinions on this? Our other option for our evening in Portree is Cafe Arriba.
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Uig.

Day 9: Explore Skye. Start the day hiking the Bioda Buidhe (1 hour hike). Then head west. Hike Dun Fiadhairt (1-2 hour hike). Picnic lunch. Dunvegan 2 Churches Walk (1 hour hike). Drive out to Neist Point Lighthouse (1-2 hour hike).
Should we just backtrack on the same route to get back to Uig? Any suggestions for other good places to eat on Skye? Also, is there a good place for brunch on Skye?
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Uig.

Day 10: Northwest coast. Head south from Uig. Stop at the Kylerhea Otter Hide and try to spot otters and other wildlife (1 hour) or wait to look for otters in Toscaig just past Plockton. Leave Skye via the bridge. Stop at Eilean Donan Castle. Visit the town of Plockton (maybe lunch here). Head north along the coast following the route of the North Coast 500. Sights we’re considering (this North Coast section of the trip is the one we’re still working on and we’d appreciate all help) — Bealach na Ba — we have read that this road up can be very difficult to drive. While I’ve never driven in Britain before (which I know changes things dramatically), I have driven a lot of the “known to be treacherous” drives including Route 66 in California, Hwy 12 in Utah, Road to Hana in Hawaii. I’d love any opinions as to how this road compares. Also, what is a “realistic” driving time if we’re not doing any hikes enroute? After this, we head toward Torridon. Sheildag Peninsula hike (1-1.5 hour hike). Are there any other appropriate (and great) family hikes in the Torridon mountains? Stop at the Kinlochewe Viewpoint. Explore Mellon Udrigle Beach. Hike Loch Coulin and Loch Clair (2.5-3 hour hike, but only do some of it as an out and back) OR hike Ardessie Falls near Dundonnell. Dinner/whisky tasting at the Drumchork Hotel.
Overnight at the Drumdonnell Hotel (just south of Ullapool).

Day 11: North Coast. Continue north from Dundonnell. Explore the Corrieshalloch Gorge. Possible hike: Ullapool Hill and the Braes (2 hour hike). Knockan Crag hike (1 hour hike). Lunch possibility — the Lochinver Larder. Stop at the Ardveck Castle (on Loch Assynt) and Achmelvich Beach (near Lochinver). Cross the Kylesku Bridge. Hike the Ceannabeinne Township Trail (45mins) near Durness. Restaurant idea for dinner? Option: Smoo Cave Hotel.
Overnight in self-catering cottage in Durness.

Day 12: Smoo Cave/South to Glen Affric. Tour Smoo Cave - including the boat tour if possible (tours start at 10am). Drive east to Tongue and then south to Loch Ness/Glen Affic area (possible 4-5 hour drive). Enroute, hike to the Falls of Shin (1 hour hike; hope to see the salmon jumping!). Hike the Contin Forest and View Rock circuit (near Contin) (1-1.5 hour hike). Hike the Silverbridge Riverside Circuit (near Garve) (1-1.5 hour hike). Dinner ideas?
Overnight in self-catering cottage near Beauly.

Day 13: Loch Ness/Glen Affric: Visit the Nessie Exhibition Centre in Drumnadrochit (to learn about Nessie : )). Visit Urquhart Castle (to see the castle, and also search for Nessie : )). Ideas for lunch and/or dinner in the area? Over day 13 and the beginning of day 14 (before we head into the Cairgorns), we’d like to do the following hikes: Plodda Falls (near Tomich; 1 hour hike), Dog Falls and Coire Loch (Glen Affric; 1.5-2.5 hour hike) and River Affric and Am Mealian (Glen Affric; 1 hour hike); Falls of Foyers (1.5-2 hour hike). Any suggestions as to which are the best and what order we should do them in?
Overnight in self-catering cottage near Beauly.

Day 14: Through Cairgorns to Resort. Complete 1 or 2 of the hikes in the Glen Affric/Loch Ness area (from the list on day 13). Then, on the way to Hilton Coylumbridge, hike Loch an Eilein (2 hour hike). Visit the Tomatin Distillery (one of the only distilleries that we can find that allows “under 18” children). Check in at Hilton Coylumbridge and use the resort's pool and amenities. Dinner included at the resort.
Overnight at Hilton Coylumbridge.

Day 15: Resort/Dunnotar Castle. Our son's 10th Birthday. Enjoy breakfast and swimming at the resort. Head to the town of Stonehaven on the east coast — visit the town and Dunnottar Castle. Drive to Kildrummy. Dinner at Kildrummy Park Castle Hotel (visit castle ruins too).
Dinner and overnight at Kildrummy Park Castle Hotel.

Day 16: Highland Games in Fochabers. Visit the town of Elgin. Head to Gordon Castle/Fochabers. Enjoy the day at the Gordon Castle Highland Games (competition day). Drive back to Aberdeen. Where to have dinner?
Overnight at the Moxy Aberdeen Airport Hotel.

Day 18: Return Flight from Aberdeen. Return the rental car and be at the airport by 9:00. Depart Aberdeen at 11:30am.

jane1144

Hi Alwaysafrica,

If you go to Edinburgh Castle first thing (recommended) I would go a little out of order and head directly to the Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland) This is the room that gets really crowded when everyone who is following the radio guide descends at the same time. Go there first and then do the rest of the tour and you will actually be able to see something.
Also, this first time we took our kids to Scotland (circa 1980) we asked about going to Highland Games at an information centre. We were told that the best highland games were in a place called Ontario, Canada. They listed several locations. We laughed as that is where we live. So, if you like those in Scotland, pay a visit to Embro (Ingersoll area) on July 1st, or try the Fergus games later in the season. There are games almost every weekend all summer to choose from.
Your trip looks great. Have fun!

alwaysafrica

Thanks Jane! Little tips like this are amazing. We will be sure to go see the Crown Jewels first (I wouldn't have thought of that).

That is absolutely hilarious about the Highland Games! We just may have to check them out!

Jenn

janisj

teensy comments/suggestions:

on day 5, after returning to the main road from Balquhidder do the short detour up the road to Killin/Falls of Dochart before heading on to Glencoe.

Day 7 you can do a short stop at the Neptune's Staircase string of locks at Corpach. Interesting if there are many boats traveling up and down the Caledonian Canal.

Day 10: I personally don't find the drive across Applecross (Bealach na Ba) to be at all 'treacherous'. It is very scenic and is slow going because it is primarily single track. But it is a lovely drive IME.

Day 12: The 'hike' to Shinn falls is more a walk and probably shouldn't take an hour -- the two times I've been I've see quite a few salmon.

Days 14/15/16 are long/hectic and you might be dragging by the ned of the trip . . . but are doable.

Is day 18 really day 17 -- or did you lose a day?

alwaysafrica

Janisj - once again, big thanks! Great comments and suggestions. Most of all, I am so incredibly relieved to hear your take on Bealach na Ba. I've been reading such crazy accounts of how scary it is... and I must admit that I was getting myself a little worked up! I remember reading stories about the Road to Hana in Hawaii (although no-one made it sound quite as scary as this one) and then when we got there, not only did I not find it treacherous, I didn't find it even remotely difficult. I am extremely happy to hear your opinion and my heart can stop racing about it now and I'll look forward to it : ) I will look into all of your other suggestions too!

Have you ever been to the Falls of Shinn in May? I've read that there are usually salmon jumping in "late summer", but it'd be amazing if there were some in May for us to see! My boys would love that.

And yes, it's a busy end of the trip ... we usually arrive home after our trips absolutely exhausted and in need of a relaxing few days up at the cottage : )

Thanks again!
Jenn

janisj

I found this photo on line of the bealach na ba road
http://cyclinguphill.com/wp-content/...y-dunckley.jpg

As you can see -- it is windy and there are switchbacks. But it is pretty much wide open territory so no cliffs, or stone wall, or hedge rows. You can see forever in most sections so no car is going to come roaring around a blind corner in the middle of the road. So just take your time and you will be fine (I've driven across it twice many years apart -- last time I drove it solo.

I'm trying to remember which months I've been to Shin Falls - I know once was during a 6 week trip covering mid May through June and we were in the north during the first 2 weeks so would have been there sometime at the very end of May. The other time was mid summer.

Gardyloo

Some comments...

Having a detailed plan is great. Having a detailed <i>contingency</i> plan is even better, given that you're moving around the northwest in <i>May.</i> Do you plan to go hiking when the tops of the mountains are invisible and the rain is coming sideways?

Also...

I'd add some ancient and not-so-ancient history to the mix. Before you get to Tongue on your way from Durness, do a detour down an un-numbered road that junctions at Loch Hope to Dun Dornadilla/Dornaigil, a prehistoric </i>broch</i> or fort, sitting alongside the road - http://gardyloo.us/wp-content/upload...0614_173Hs.jpg . In fact, you could visit Tongue first, then double back to this little road and take it south past the broch to Altnaharra and Lairg, then down to Invershin for the falls. You could stop for a walk in the Ben Hope area (a bit before the broch) if the conditions are okay. This is an exceptionally scenic and lonely road, one of Scotland's real hidden gems - http://gardyloo.us/wp-content/upload...0614_118Hs.jpg for example. Map - https://goo.gl/maps/t1SUyco87EB2

You're probably not going to see fish jumping at the Falls of Shin in May. The main migration occurs in late summer and the autumn, pretty much like salmon everywhere. Which is not to say the falls won't be interesting; all that rain can lead to spates in the river which can make the falls fairly impressive. (But remember we're not talking Niagara here.)

If you're in the vicinity, however, consider driving up Strath Carron from Ardgay (just over the bridge from Bonar Bridge) to Croick church. This little church was the focus of one of the most notorious episodes in the tragic Highland Clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries, when people who had lived in the area for ages were summarily evicted from their homes and sent to fend for themselves - in the central belt, North America... Some people scratched pitiful messages on the windows of the church that you can still see. It's a beautiful and sad place, but an important one if you're going to get a sense of the human story. http://gardyloo.us/wp-content/upload...30614_63Hs.jpg and http://gardyloo.us/wp-content/upload...130614_25s.jpg . It's important to understand that much of the landscape's appearance - treeless, seemingly barren - is due to human activity. Most of Scotland's forests in medieval and Renaissance times were felled for the timber, and the introduction of sheep - who eat everything down to the roots - has contributed to the bare hills and moors to some degree.

Anyway, just some ruminations on my part.

alwaysafrica

Hi Gardyloo -- thanks so much for all of your insight. Really great tips on the "history additions". Will look into all of them. All of your detail is fantastic!

Especially funny that you mentioned having a contingency plan. My husband literally mentioned this exact same thing only last night! And I told him that we may not have time to finish planning this trip and then planning a whole second contingency plan... too funny!

I totally agree with you that it may rain and be poor visibility and that it would be great to have other things to do (particularly on Skye and on the northwest coast). However, as we started thinking about it, we really couldn't find what those "contingency" things may be. What is there to do inside/out of the rain that would be worthwhile? Of course, if we were in Edinburgh or Glasgow during bad weather, it'd be no problem : ) But given that we're going to be up there...? Any suggestions you may have for "a rainy day" would be much, much appreciated!

janisj

>>What is there to do inside/out of the rain that would be worthwhile?<<

The biggest problem is that those areas (Skye and the NW) are ALL about the outdoors. There really isn't much indoor 'stuff'. There is Dunvegan Castle, and the Clan Donald Centre and a couple of small museums on Skye. Other than Portree there isn't another real town.

There is a teensy museum in Ullapool. There is Inverewe Gardens - still out doors but at least not hiking or Munroe bagging

But you just need to accept that some days will likely be unfit for hiking and you may be stuck in your accommodations . . .

I had to visit Skye three times spread over about 6 or 7 years before I saw a darned thing. The first time was dreadful weather, second time was just drippy/foggy, but oh my(!) that third visit was gobsmacking gorgeous. (They don't call it the misty Isle for nothing)

Gardyloo

As Janis says, there aren't a lot of indoor activities, but you'll have a car, and the roads will still be there, even on the worst days. The <i>Scotsman,</i> Edinburgh's newspaper, had a poll some years back of most popular Scots words or expressions and the word "dreich" came out on top. Dreich ("dreek," more or less) means wet/nasty/gloomy - an apt word for many days in Scotland. http://www.scotsman.com/heritage/peo...ords-1-2754328

But in the spring hopefully the weather systems will blow in off the Atlantic and move on; there's usually a two-day cycle for these things, so you shouldn't have days on end when it's rotten. On those that are, jump in the car and go exploring. Head to open ocean and see if the surf is pounding away. Try your hand at wet-day photography. Usually even on the gloomiest day there are sun breaks that can be very dramatic. Or head to the Talisker distillery on Skye to learn about whisky (kids allowed.) Or look for shops selling local crafts or artworks. Get a couple of books for e-readers or the like - R.L. Stevenson, or Walter Scott (or hell, even get the <i>Outlander</i> series on video and skip past the naughty bits - the history parts aren't entirely bunk, witches and faeries notwithstanding.) Get an English - Gaelic dictionary so you can see where those names come from. Lots of options.

alwaysafrica

Hi Janisj and Gardyloo! I was able to read your replies over the weekend, but only had the chance to write back now. Thanks so much for all of these suggestions! Make no mistake, we are absolutely being realistic about the fact that the weather is not going to be great (likely for much of our trip!). It's just whether we try to push through with our hikes and itinerary, or whether we give in to the weather!? My hubbie and I somewhat disagree on this point... and I guess that only time will tell : ) Your wise and thoughtful suggestions are very much appreciated! We are lucky to have a car for sure and will definitely use some of the time to drive instead!

Any other comments from anyone about the itinerary or restaurant/hike options? I'm starting to think that maybe I should start a separate trail about restaurant suggestions. There haven't been such trails in a while and so they might yield some answers!

Jenn

alwaysafrica

Hi there! Craigievar Castle has been recommended to us and would have to be fit into day 16 (on the way back from Dunnottar Castle to Kildrummy). Which means that we wouldn't have a lot of time to fit it in. We've now read that one can only see Craigievar on a guided tour, which I don't think we have time for.

So... we're wondering... can we park our car in the parking lot and at least see the grounds and exterior of the castle without paying for a tour? If not, is there another location that we can get a good (Free) view of the exterior?

Thanks!
Jenn

janisj

Show up and if you can get in take the tour. Groups are small and there is always the possibility there is no opening when you show up (though that is unlikely) It doesn't take that long - less than an hour, and it is a wonderful example of a Scottish tower house that was lived in until the mid '60's.

You can't really see the exterior w/o entering the grounds.

alwaysafrica

Thanks Janisj! I know it sounds crazy to say that we might not have the extra hour, but that is one of our busiest days where we're heading from Aviemore to Dunnottar castle and then over to Kildrummy. I guess we'll play it by ear!

janisj

Just <i>another</i> reason to <i>not</i> stay in Aviemore (snarky font off beaten dead horse an all )

ksjtravel

alwaysafrica: great itinerary--we're also in the thick of planning our May trip to Scotland so it has been nice to reference all of the feedback on this thread!

I found this Website helpful [and beautiful] for Skye--especially for pubs, cafes and restaurants: http://www.whatsonskye.com/

Safe travels!

alwaysafrica

Hi ksjtravel - thanks for the website! I actually hadn't checked that one before. Looks great. Hope you guys have a great trip too! We just checked the weather around the country and it looks like it's warming up! Looking much more encouraging than it was last week : )