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12 Days, 2 Carry-Ons, 1 Couple in Benelux + Germany: Trip Report

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12 Days, 2 Carry-Ons, 1 Couple in Benelux + Germany: Trip Report

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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 12:32 PM
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Enjoying your report!
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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 03:41 PM
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Thank you for that info travel. That is good to know there are the early flights

Thanks klondike!
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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 04:06 PM
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Day 2 - Amsterdam

Had a fitful night of sleep. Woke up in the middle of the night, but then back to sleep. Finally up around 8 AM, which is late for us (the doggie usually has us up at 5:30).

Today's itinerary called for museums!!! Much to hubby's dismay

We wandered down by the flower market and found a breakfast place. Met an American couple that were on their way out on a cruise! For breakfast we tried the uitsmiters (sp?). They were just OK. I must admit, that I love greasy diner food, and that was just not going to be replicated in Europe. However, I'm not in Europe to eat diner food....so I enjoyed my fried eggs.

After breakfast we walked down to the tram and headed towards the Rikjsmuseum & Van Gogh. Ahhh, Van Gogh...this is what my whole trip was about! I love Van Gogh. He is, hands down, my favorite artist. Something about the thick paint and the short brushstrokes. I could just stare at them all day.

We started at the Rijksmuseum though. I was prepared for the smaller exhibit. I must say, it's not really worth the price if you are paying for an individual ticket. I didn't mind so much because I had the Museum Card.

So, in we went. It was very easy to follow the exhibit. Is it awful if I say I was somewhat disappointed? Except for The Night Watch. That was indeed a pretty incredible painting.

Hubby spent most of this museum just vegging out on a bench. He doesn't really "get" art. Although we did remark that "Rembrandt was pretty good." and that Monet "doesn't really look like anything."

We then walked over to the Van Gogh museum. There was a pretty good line but we walked right past them because we had the Museum Card. Now, I was VERY impressed with the layout of the museum. You basically follow his progress chronologically.

I was a little annoyed at how crowded it was. I usually like to stare at the paintings from afar, then walk up really close, and then step back slowly. I couldn't do this with a lot of the paintings because it was so packed.

We were there mid-morning, so maybe there is a better time that is less crowded? Nonetheless, I was happy that I was able to see so many of his works. I now have one more to track down (Starry Night in NYC) and I will be content.

After the museums I decided we would head over to the Leidseplein. I wanted to pop into BOOM Chicago and see if we could sign-up for a canal cruise by the St. Nicholas Boat Club. Unfortunately, everything that day was full and I really hate to commit to something later. I decided to wait list for a 2:30 cruise.

So we sat around and drank some overpriced soda (4 euros) and waited. Turns out we are super lucky and some people didn't show up. The captain walked us over to a nearby canal and off we went.

I must say, this is one of the favorite parts of my trip. We had the captain and 7 other people on the boat. It was a really old, restored canal boat. The Captain pointed out a couple things, but otherwise we just sat back and enjoyed the scenery. It was about 90 minutes and boy did we see a lot! It was such a great perspective. We were able to go under the city's lowest bridge (we all had to basically lay down in the boat!). The sun was out....riding past all the houseboats. It made us want to quit our jobs and move to the Netherlands. Of course, then I asked the captain how much house boats are and our dreams were crushed.

We did see the big canal cruise boats going by. They also looked fun, but ours just seemed a bit more authentic. If that makes any sense. Oh, and as we went by one of those big boats under a bridge I got splashed with canal water (we had to move aside quickly because the big boat wasn't moving over). Oh well

After the cruise we hopped a tram back down to our hotel. Stopped at the grocery store across the street. Wanted to grab some soda and munchies for the room. Walking through grocery stores is one of my favorite ways to peek into a new culture. You can tell a lot about a culture by its food! All the different kinds of packaging and different flavors of potato chips. It's fun!

Back to the hotel. We were tired! Dropped everything off and did some vegging. No napping since we wanted to get onto a regular schedule. After a bit of vegging we decided to try and find some food. I'm sure we found something, but I'm not really remembering what it was now. Sorry!

Quick stop at a smoke shop for DH and then off to bed.

Overall it was a fabulous day. I mean, how much better can you get? Van Gogh and an exploration of Amsterdam canals on a beautiful sunny day. *sigh* A little slice of heaven.

Tomorrow we are heading out of town Stay tuned for more train adventures!
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Old Oct 5th, 2010, 05:52 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to share your travel. How did your husband like the coffee shop scene and what did he smoke that changed his mind an hour later, inquiring minds want to know.
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Old Oct 5th, 2010, 03:47 PM
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Hello twiggers

I'm really enjoying your report! Our next big trip next year is to these same areas, so I'll be taking lots of notes as I'm really just beginning to research. Love your idea of Priceline.
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Old Oct 6th, 2010, 03:33 AM
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PA: My husband LOVED the coffee shop scene. We found one place called Dampkring that he really liked. The first place he smoked at I think the stuff he bought had Widow in the name. I think he was just grumpy and was determine not to like anything in Europe, but then he smoked and it was all good LOL

He ended up visiting at least 10 different shops. He really liked the hash and actually started enjoying the prerolled joints where tobacco is mixed in.

Since it was just him smoking he stuck with buying joints because he wanted to try as many different kinds as possible.

He tended to like the shops that weren't super crowded (i.e., he wasn't a fan of Bulldog or Baba in the RDL) and ones that had smoking areas outside.

Swiss: Glad to help! Priceline was a fabulous way to save money and I would do it again in a heartbeat!! The key is to not have your heart set on a certain hotel.
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 03:49 AM
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twiggers - I'm glad to hear that the St. Nicklaus Boat Club at Boom Chicago is up and running again. When we were there last October 2009, we tried to take a canal cruise, but the club was shut down for legal reasons. So I'm happy for you, but envious, too. We're going back to Amsterdam in April 2011, so hopefully St. Nick's will still be operating then, and we'll finally get our cruise.

<i>"Van Gogh museum.... You basically follow his progress chronologically."</i> I thought it was fascinating to see the different stages of his mental health reflected in the colors and styles of his paintings. You truly can take a walk through his life following the progression of his art. I look forward to reading about your adventures to de Hoge Veluwe.

So far it sounds like you had a wonderful time, despite the challenge of jet lag on your first day. Looking forward to more.

Robyn
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 07:03 AM
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Great start twiggers. I'm also looking forward to the de Hoge Veluwe and the Kroller Mueller.
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 12:02 PM
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This is a charming report, and I will follow it happily along with the others!
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 12:53 PM
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I'm really enjoying your report. Something about your writing style....I frequently sample reports but don't continue reading them because they're not that interesting.
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 01:09 PM
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I know why I'm following this report with interest & pleasure: there's a certain honest frankness that isn't always in TRs. One senses that things won't be sugar-coated to make the Travellers look better, and we thus identify with them. Thanks for taking the time to write so well!
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 05:42 PM
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Artstuff: Yes, I was so happy to be able to do the canal tour. It was so enjoyable! DH was marveling at the marijuana plants growing on the front deck of some of the houseboats.

Thanks LSky and taconic!

Pegon: Thank you so much! My job requires me to write boring scientific journal articles, so it's nice to write about something else for a change!

29FEB: Definitely no sugar coating here! Just honest frankness. Sometimes that puts people off, but I'm glad you are enjoying it!
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 06:19 PM
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Day 3: Travel to Den Hague and Delft!

Well, off we go! I am determined to master the trains. I am armed with my daily itinerary that contains train times, etc. The original plan today was to see Den Hague and make a decision whether or not to proceed to Delft. As you can see from the title, we did make it to Delft (thoughts on that decision will be detailed below).

Woke up and decided we would grab breakfast at the train station. Arrived at the station about 30 minutes before our train departure. This gave me enough time to confirm the platform and to try and find something to eat.
Today we used the first day of our Benelux rail pass. We had to get it validated though. We went to the first ticketing area and were told we needed to go to the international desk. Fortunately there was no line-up (as compared to later in the week when I saw a horrendous line). We showed our passports and were given explicit instructions to be sure to mark in the date each time or we could be fined.

Off we went. We grabbed a quick breakfast sandwich and some soda/water and went up to the platform. While on the platform I noticed this man in his 20s walking by VERY slowly and seeming to pay a lot of attention to my cross-body bag. My husband also noticed and told me to pay attention (I already was!).

We grabbed seats on the train. While on the train enjoying the countryside and little towns/villages, I noticed that creepy guy walking up and down the aisles. I had a hand on my bag at all times! Guess what? At one of the stops we saw him running by SUPER fast with a bag in his hand. OMG, he totally robbed someone!!!! I felt so bad. But there is no time to say anything to anyone because the train doors were closing and it was pulling away. This definitely served to remind me that you need to be aware of your surroundings at all times. I am certainly glad that I decided to wear a money belt.

Well, that was our excitement for the morning! We got off the train in Den Hague. I followed Rick Steves' instructions to find the trams. All the while my DH is saying "Can we take a cab now?" Poor guy, he really had no idea what he was getting into. He just wanted to smoke some weed and I'm dragging him all over the countryside.

The plan for Den Hague was the parliament building and the Mauritshuis. We got off the tram and had no clue where we were. I walked into a store and asked where the parliament was. We were quickly on our way (we were only a block away).

DH decided to sit down on a bench outside and I walked in. It was so pretty! I walked all around the main square. I really liked how compact the center area was and could just imagine it as a bustling political hub back in the day. I went back out and grabbed DH so he could snap some pictures, and also because to get to the Mauritshuis you have to walk through the complex. Once I actually got DH in he did go "Wow."

It was short lived once I told him that we had to go to a museum (yes, there was some eye rolling). I tried to tell him there would be some Rembrandt in hopes that he would lighten up. Didn't really work LOL

Off to the museum. We used our Museumcards to get in. DH had zero interest and so I left him in the cafe and started walking through. I liked this museum. It was compact and located in an old house. So not only do you get to see some great masterpieces, but you also get a feel for how the rich lived.

The big draw of this museum is "The Girl with the Pearl Earring." As I said before, I'm more of an impressionist/expressionist kind of person, but this painting was beautiful. So intriguing how one simple brush stroke created that pearl earring. DH actually showed up! He walked through all the rooms and remarked "Well, at least this is real art, not like that Van Gogh crap." Gotta love the man.

We didn't spend a lot of time in the museum. It really is small. I made it through in about 30-45 minutes. If you are a big lover of Vermeer era art, then you might spend longer. I often struggle with that. How long are you supposed to stare at paintings? Sometimes I feel like I rush through museums....but I just stop and look at the ones I like!

After the Mauritshuis I decided we would go on to Delft. It was relatively early (noonish) so why not. We were a little turned around, but found our way back to the tram stop. I could have walked but DH wasn't up for that. Poor guy was still looking for a cab!

Train ride to Delft was uneventful. Got off the train in Delft and I think we walked out the back side, so our walk to the town center was a little longer (figured that out on the way back).

Oh my goodness, walking into this town center!! It was so very quaint and beautiful. Even DH was impressed. We were starving though and before I embarked on a hunt for Delftware and churches we grabbed a quick lunch at an outdoor restaurant. We both had ham & cheese sandwiches.

I then saw "Apple gebak." Now, I have a friend who lives in the Netherlands and she said this was a must eat. OMG...this was singlehandedly the VERY best apple pie I have ever eaten. Believe me, I spent the next 3 days trying to duplicate it and didn't succeed. The apples were so thinly sliced, and the crust was a mix between pie crust and cake...but tasted like it had graham crackers. Just simply to die for.

My plan for Delft was to visit the Nieuwe & Oude kerk and buy some type of Delftware. DH, on the other hand, wanted me to find him a coffeeshop. Which I did. I dropped him off and told him I'd be back in an hour.

Walked over to the Nieuwe kerk first. The entry fee covers both churches. Did my typical walk-through with pictures. Then walked through the town square towards the Oude kerk (the pamphlet provides directions). It was so cool!! They were playing some type of game that kind of looked like lawn bowling!?! The whole town seemed to be out today! The streets were lined with vendors. So crowded, but so incredibly fun to be part of. Once again I thought "Wow, let's give up the city life and move to Delft. I bet everyone knows their neighbors!"

Went through Oude Kerk to see the Vermeer burial spot. Snapped the requisite pictures and was on my way. Stopped back in the town square to buy some Delftware. Um, yea...that wasn't happening. That stuff is ex.pen.sive. I did find a really cool porcelain Dutch shoe that is Royal Delft, but not handmade. And it was still expensive!

Time to pick-up DH and head back to Amsterdam. As I was walking I noticed these people walking with these big waffle looking things. Saw a stand in the market selling them and went up and asked what they were. They were called "stroop waffles" or something like that. Translates to "syrup waffles." Once again, the Dutch know how to do baked goods!! That thing was sooooo yummy and was only 1 euro.

Found DH. Poor guy was standing on the street corner. Apparently whatever smoke he bought made him paranoid and he said he had to leave. LOL.

Back to the train. Uneventful ride back. Wondering why the Dutch wrap their hay bales in plastic? Is it the rain? We still haven't figured that one out.

My plan was to visit the Anne Frank House. Instead of heading back to the hotel we hopped on a tram. The line-up wasn't too bad. This was about 4-5 PM. It took me about 15 minutes to get in. I had just read the diary before coming to Amsterdam, so everything was fresh in my head. DH decided to hang out next to the canal and wait for me. Why waste 8 euros when he has no interest?

Did the walk through. Very moving. Amazing how many people were crammed into that house. Also amazed at how much house there is! Those canal houses look so small, but they just go on and on. I didn't cry, but was close (I did cry at the Holocaust Museum in D.C., so I was prepared for it). Every time I think of Anne Frank, I just shake my head....just so sad.

Well, after leaving the house you're not really in the mood to do happy stuff. You kind of want to wallow in that glum, reflective mood for a bit. So we decided to walk around a bit. Wow, amazingly we ended up in front of a coffee shop (not hard to do in Amsterdam). After a quick stop we went back to hotel.

Had a lazy night. Just walked downstairs and grabbed some Chinese food and off to bed.

It was a great day!!! I was sooooooo glad that I decided to stop in Delft. It was such a great contrast from the big city life of Amsterdam. I really feel like I got to see a bit of the "authentic" Dutch life. I'm not sure if that makes sense...but that is how I felt. Seeing the weekend market and the locals playing that bowling game.

As for DH. He's doing better. The crankiness has worn off...likely because he is enjoying the coffee shop scene and is in his element. He's still not thrilled with public transportation, and has threatened Rick Steves more than once (in a joking way)!

Tomorrow the plan is to go to Kroller-Mueller. DH has said he will go. Anyone want to take bets on whether that happens???
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Old Oct 8th, 2010, 06:26 PM
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Keep on writing; we're going to most of the same places shortly, so I'm taking notes. Though all 3 of us (me, DH and DD) love art and museums, so no difference of opinion there.
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 03:54 AM
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Lexma: You're going to love it!!!! Let me know if you have any specific questions about anything Will you guys be heading out to the Kroller-Mueller? I'll be writing about it later, but it was really enjoyable.
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 05:41 AM
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ttt 4 later
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 01:25 PM
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bags are to help make silage
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 02:19 PM
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IF you're craving stroopwaffles , Trader Joe's sells "Carmel Bites" that are similar.
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 08:20 PM
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I am tapping my foot waiting to hear what you thought of the Kroller-Mueller. It was a museum that I want to visit again.
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Old Oct 9th, 2010, 09:19 PM
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I have not been to the Krolle-Muller for a lot of years, but it made a big impression on me. At that time they had a room full of Van Gogh's pictures of potatoes. Bags of them freshly dug from the fields spilling our on the floor of peasant houses. Just looking at the artist's obsession with the dirt and dust still caked on the spuds in brown painting after brown painting made me realize for the first time how mentally ill the guy really was.

Look for them and see if you don't agree.
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