mfernett

Hello! I am an avid Fodor's user and often use this site to help plan trips! My husband and I (both mid 30s) are taking a 10 day trip to Ireland Aug 26-Sept 4. After reading many forums posted I found an itinerary that seemed to make a lot of sense for what we are looking for in a trip: Romantic, pubs, scenery, not TOO much driving, and not a price we'll be paying off for years to come!). Please see this agenda and any accommodations or suggestions for alternative towns, routes would be wonderful. Also, it really makes no difference if we fly into Shannon or Dublin just though we'd save the 'city scene' for the last leg w/ no car. Also if anyone can suggest a tour group at any of the given towns, that might make more sense than driving, that would be nice also. We want to see a lot, but also not be in the car the entire time!!

Day 1 - Arrive at Shannon. Drive to Kenmare. Have a nice dinner to celebrate your first night in Ireland. Sleep in Kenmare.

Day 2 - Explore either the Ring of Kerry or the Beara Peninsula. (If you want to avoid the tour buses, pick the Beara.) Spend the night in Kenmare.

Day 3 - Drive to Dingle. If the weather is clear as you approach Dingle, drive over Conor Pass. You may not get another chance. Spend the evening in one or more of Dingle's pubs that have traditional music sessions and get in on some good craic (conversation). Sleep in Dingle.

Day 4 - Explore Slea Head and as much of the rest of the Dingle Peninsula as time permits, either by car or bike. More music and craic. Sleep in Dingle.

Day 5- Drive north, taking the Killimer-Tarbert ferry across the Shannon River and then the coastal road to Galway. More music and craic in a pub. Sleep in Galway.

Day 6 - Either visit the Aran Islands or drive the Connemara loop. More music and craic. Sleep in Galway.

Day 7 - Get up early and drive to Dublin. Turn in your car at the airport and take a bus into the city. Explore as time allows. Go to the theatre, a concert, or a pub. Sleep in Dublin.

Day 8 - More time in Dublin. If you haven't already done so, see the Book of Kells at Trinity College. Go to the theatre, a concert, or a pub. Sleep in Dublin.

Day 9 - Fly home. COULD ALSO STAY one more day here if a day trip to Kilkinney is suggested via rail or tour group.

THANKS FOR ALL SUGGESTIONS!

Melissa

Pawleys

Hi, Sounds like a great trip. I've been to Ireland 3 times, always in and out of Shannon. (I'm not a city lover.) I love all of your choices for the SW; but, I don't think you should miss the Killarney National Park. We've done parts of it all three times. Drove through it on our way to Kenmare one time. It really was magical after a rain. Another time we hiked the Gap of Dunloe and took the boat to the Killarney side. The third time we visited Torc waterfall and Muckross House.

janisj

"<i>Also, it really makes no difference if we fly into Shannon or Dublin just though we'd save the 'city scene' for the last leg w/ no car.</i>"

If it was me -- I'd do just the opposite. Get over the jet lag and get acclimated car-less in Dublin the first couple of days. I'd fly into Dublin, stay in the city center for 2 nights, then collect a rental car and do your route in reverse.

Otherwise, it looks very nice.

Cowboy1968

If you arrive with a jet lag, ditto what janisj said.
And you could easily incorporate a stopover in Kilkenney when you drive Dublin-Kenmare.

Cathinjoetown

Consider driving the Burren south of Galway, very beautiful, if barren!

mfernett

Hello and thanks for your replies - my husband will have already been in Europe a week for work, and I am meeting him in Ireland. He will just be coming out of stuffy business meetings and mostly within cities, which is why i thought going straight to laid by west coast would be good. Also, he will be doing the driving initially so I'm not overly concerned about having jet lag. REgardless I do ok with it - we used to travel frequently between Australia and the US so kind of got used to it!

Catinjoetown: So you are suggesting driving thru the Burren on our way to Galway, as opposed to the Killimer-Tarbert ferry and coastal road? Not sure the geographic difference. This also brings up another question - I've read MANY great things about the town of Doolin and have considered staying here a night on our way to Galway, and see the Mur, and have a fun night! (We do like to have a good time aka lots of beers and music - my husband is of Irish decent - and, well I married him so I'm i default! he he). Please also know we'll be traveling in last Aug - I've read this is a busy time of year and potentially crowded.

Can anyone recommend some pubs to sleep in? We are not looking for upscale hotel accommodations, unless someone can recommend a castle that is a must!

Thanks!

janisj

"<i>my husband will have already been in Europe a week for work, and I am meeting him in Ireland.</i>"

Great --I assumed you were flying in long haul. Since jet lag won't be an issue, your original plan makes sense . . .

mfernett

Well, I will have the jet lag and my hubby not. So he gets to drive! We do have an extra day should we spend it in Dingle or Galaway?

Cathinjoetown

mfer,

Sorry I did not reply sooner. We could be talking about the same route. My favorite drive around the Burren is to come south from Galway, heading to Ballyvaughn, go through the village then on to the coast road. BTW, right as you leave Ballyvaughn, there is an excellent pub on your left, great seafood chowder.

Will try to look up more info but if you google The Burren you'll get an idea.

mfernett

Does anyone suggest stopping in the small town of Doolin for a night while traveling from Kenmare to Dingle??

c41

We just arrived home from a three week trip that included a few days in Ireland. We stayed with friends who live on the Aran Island of Kilronan and then went to Galway. It happened to be race week in Galway, which is the largest event in Ireland, and it was difficult to find a place to stay. We ended up staying over a pub and got fleeced when we checked out the next morning. Do not stay at Garvey's Inn in galway. When I reserved the room on Monday for Weds, I was told 99 Euros for the night. When we went to check out Thurs morning we were told 99 Euros per person! Of course we had a fit, but what could we do. We went to the Tourist information office around the corner and they said Garvey's was not registered with them so there was not much we could do. We also had a tour booked that did not work out because it got back to Galway late. You can get a book at the Tourist Information office which is right around the corner from the bus station, that lists recommended places to stay. Also make sure you know tour times when you book a tour trip. I would strongly recommend the Aran Islands. Kilronan is beautiful and very picturesque. B & B's are plentiful and there are delicious fish and chips at the white cafe on the corner.

longhorn55

I was underwhelmed by Doolin. Two of the three pubs in town were jammed with tourists from tour buses. We went to the 3rd pub, O'Connor's, and had a good meal and found seating later for the traditional music session.

Besides hearing this music, we found nothing of interest in Doolin to see or do. I think our time there could have been better spent elsewhere.

We very much enjoyed other areas in and around the Burren. We particularly enjoyed Kinvarra, which is technically on the edge of the Burren.

Tony2phones

Kenmare to Dingle via Doolin that is a novel route..

wojazz3

Yes, you will need to look at the map again. You can hit Doolin on your coast drive after leaving the ferry. That will be a fairly full day of driving by the way. Those roads are pretty slow. Doolin during the day is not terribly exciting though at that time of year, O'Connor's may have some music in the daytime depending on the day of the week. Last time through I walked into an Irish session that was amazing and then discover it was a photo shoot with a 6' tall blonde and 4 guys out of central casting playing tunes. The seafood chowder was fantastic though.

As far as pubs to stay in, I've only done this once and wasn't impressed with the accommodations. That said, O'Donnabhain's in Kenmare gets pretty good reviews from what I remember. http://www.odonnabhain-kenmare.com/

Bill

mfernett

Bill, thanks for your response - perhaps better then for us to stay focused and simply have some chowder lunch in Doolin or Ballyvaughn, and keep heading to our Galway destination, seeing the Cliffs of Muir along the way. Agreed?

Re: Kenmare - I am deciding between Virginia's Guesthouse and Davitts Guesthouse. We wanted something in centre village as in Galway we hoping to stay at the PAX house which is a different feel all together! (Any other recommendation for B&B's there btw?)

Lastly - and THANK YOU for all responses it really helps when planning.... hiring a car is going to be pretty expensive. Does anyone recommend returning the car in Galway or Shannon, and catching a train to Dublin in lieu of driving? Will we be missing out on anything spectacular by doing this?

Thanks!
Melissa

mfernett

Sorry for so many questions!! Once arriving in Galway - we will have the next day to do either Aran Islands or drive some of the conmera loop. Any suggestions as to which one we should do? Has anyone taken a plane to the islands? That could be a nice change from driving.... and then perhaps just see the Kylemore Abbey the next day before our departure to dublin. Help!

wojazz3

I would drive to Dublin. You would have to drop the car off at the Galway airport, then get a taxi back into Galway which would probably cost as much as the difference in the car rental. Then pay for the train trip. The drive from Galway to Dublin is quite easy now with the motorway so you will be there (minus the M50) in about 2.5 hours if you don't stop.

I'm not the best person for suggestions in a village town or city as I tend to stay on the outskirts and enjoy the quiet and views. As far as I can remember, both of those choices in Kenmare get excellent reviews. I'm not sure how the parking is for either of them.

longhorn55

We stayed at the Abbey Lodge B&B in Kenmare and I would highly recommend it. They have plenty of free on-site parking and it's only a 12- 15 minute walk into town. Both the accommodations and the hosts were great. Check their website for details.

allisonm

We recently stayed at Virginia's in Kenmare. The location can't be beat. We would get their deluxe room next time for a bit more space. They filled up in April so I would book ahead.

Is there a Pax House in Galway? Dingle has one that gets great reviews. In Galway we tend to stay in the Salthill area.

It's a tough choice between Connemara and the Aran Islands. You can let the weather be your guide and take the drive if it's raining. You can fly to the Arans for nearly the same price as the ferry, I understand, although we have never done that.

jaja

Caha's B&B in Kenmare is conveniently located, clean, quiet and lovely hostess. http://www.cahaskenmare.com/
Although we had reserved 2 twins, our hostess took one look at the tired elderly lady and gave me my own double downstairs and put the young 'uns in a triple upstairs!
Would like to have stayed longer.