Long Island Trip Report (long!)
Jan 30th, 2010 | 09:31 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
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Long Island Trip Report (long!)
Ok, so I promised a trip report after returning from the Bahamas Out Islands. So, I’m a couple of months late. Sorry about that, but hopefully I can redeem myself. This one is a little long,..
The Trip to the Long Island
My wife, M, and I catch the red eye to Charlotte. Wheels up at SFO right on time, wheels down in Charlotte, uh, one hour early?! Unfortunately for us, daylight savings time hit us in the middle of the flight. That means we have a 4 ½ hour layover, not 3 ½. And the US Airways lounge doesn’t open until 5:30 am. 45 minutes to wait. Who the heck planned this trip anyway! Oh, right, never mind. However, Charlotte does have some very nice rocking chairs in the terminal! Anyway, no problem to Nassau and Southern Air is only 15 minutes late.
We touch down at the Stella Maris airport, er, landing strip, and are taken forthwith to Cape Santa Maria Resort, henceforth known as CSM. We ride with another couple, Bob and Liza from NYC. It’s their first trip to CSM as it is ours. I guess they are regulars in St. Martin and wanted to try something different.
CSM
We are the first people to check into CSM. It’s November 1; the first day of the season. Check-in is quick and easy. So, dump the gear into the bungalow, which is right on the beach. And let’s be clear, ALL the bungalows and villas are right on the beach. We change and jump in the water. The sand is Bora Bora soft, or for this venue, Anguilla soft. The water is so warm and so shallow, I can walk a hundred yards from the shore. It’s gorgeous.
Off for drinks, and Cindy makes us rum punches. A little too sweet for us (which is saying a lot!) and I switch to Kalik and M has wine.
I’m not going to bore everybody with food and wine stories, so let’s just say the food at CSM is excellent. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. All good. I will say the grouper, prepared any which way, is outstanding. So fresh and tasty. The fruit in the morning is always fresh. Some of the wait staff are in training, but always friendly and always putting in the effort. That’s not something you see everywhere in the islands, or in the states, or in Europe, etc, etc.
FYI, we are on the MAP plan – breakfast and dinner. Not our usual gig, but CSM looked to be very far from anything else on the island…and it is. I would highly recommend the MAP for anyone visiting.
Rooms
Our room, #3, has a wall-in air conditioner and it was loud. Unusually, startling loud. We were thinking that it was probably because it hadn’t been used for a couple of months. So, we figure we’d give it the day to sort itself out. It did not. So we talked to Ewa, one of the managers about the room and she immediately checked us into room #19. A/C was quiet (thermostat with an outside unit) – and we can hear the waves.
The rooms are nice and clean. At night, they’re a little dark, but I’d rather have that than blazing neon!
One night, during our sunset drinks, three dolphins decide to pay us a visit! One “surfed” his way in on a small wave no more than 30 feet from shore. What a highlight!
CSM Staff
The room switch is just one example of the incredible service and thoughtfulness we experienced at CSM. The staff, from Ewa and her husband, Brook, to Sherline at the front desk and Maxine in the restaurant and everyone else, were so friendly and helpful, I would return just for that type of service. Although, Maxine promised me a guava duff, but sadly, it was not to be. Sigh.
I "taught" one of the bartenders how to make a painkiller, and he did an awesome job. He actually came in the next night with a bartender’s guide to study how to make other drinks!
Day Trips
We rent a car to explore the island – a Nissan Sentra for $82. Oh, this poor car. It’s missing a rearview mirror, which it turns out, I don’t really need as there is no traffic. But, it will not go above 50. Uh uh, no way. And when we get to Salt Pond, the transmission slips and now won’t go above 20. M, thinking she’s in the Amazing Race, flags a car going the other way; she thinks it’s a taxi. He stops (you gotta love the islands!), backs up 50 yards and its not a taxi, but instead a pastor with the Church of Christ and an “I Love Jesus” hat. We have a little chat and he tells us to follow him to the nearest mechanic. We do and he drives off with a little wave. Wow. I go in, a mechanic comes out, checks everything he can check and tells us the transmission is probably shot and there’s nothing he can do. I understand that, offer him some cash for his time, but he too waves me off. He says when, not if, it happens again, pull over, turn off the engine and restart it. So, over the course of the day, we do this a half dozen times. Ya gotta love Caribbean rental cars!
Anyway, we make it to the end of the island, 80 miles to Gordons beach, and it is lovely. But, someone really needs to put a bar on this beach! I would have gladly forked over what money I had for a cold Kalik and a cheesburger, or grouper burger, or conch burger...you get my drift. It reminded me of Savannah’s on Virgin Gorda.
We stop for lunch at Rowdy Boys at Winter Haven for lunch for a couple of sandwiches and diet cokes ($28). The food is just ok, but we have a great view of the Atlantic. We snorkel at Dean’s Blue Hole which, for me, is a must see and must do. The snorkeling is just ok, but the thought that you’re swimming over a hole that 2000 feet deep is kinda cool. We stop briefly at Stella Maris; CSM looks to be much nicer and not as worn down.
*******************
We decide to walk the entire CSM beach. We are told it would take 2 to 3 hours and to bring water. It does and we do. The house at the end of the beach sits on a point and has three cannons; one of which points directly at CSM. I tell Ewa this later that night and she promises not to tick them off.
*******************
Up one morning for a snorkeling trip. There are five of us, not including Captain Bert. Bert tries to take us around the northern tip of the island, but the surf is up (foreshadowing). So, we turn around and head to Coral Gardens. There is coral (duh), barracudas and the usual suspects: angelfish, parrotfish, etc. Then, into Joe’s sound to see stingrays and ospreys (or osprey nests) and then back to a reef for more snorkeling. Clear water and more fish, including a way too curious barracuda(!), make for a great time. Bert tells us all kinds of island stories on the way back where he detours south for a bit. It is a three hour tour and we all had a wonderful outing.
********************
M and I decide to walk to the Columbus Monument. We pack water and snacks and off we go. Don’t let anyone tell you differently, this is a long walk! And there really is not a lot to see until you get there. It's all inland. Once you do, you’re standing on the northernmost tip of the island and it’s very pretty. But, now you’ve got to walk back. Let’s just say that towards the end, when I ask M what she is thinking, she replies “banana daiquiri”.
A Word about Mosquitoes/Noseeums
Ok, what is with these bugs? These guys are tenacious. I almost never get bit…by the second day I have a half dozen bites. M is tastier, she’s up to a dozen. We always bring Cutter with 30% DEET; I’m also using the Deep Woods Off (25%) that CSM provides. You know it’s bad when the natives are complaining. Maxine told us that the entire island had been “fogged” during the summer. And, yes, I understand, it’s the tropics…there are bugs…trust me, after travelling to the Caribbean for 20 years, I get it…but, dang me!
Off to Great Exuma.. to be continued…
The Trip to the Long Island
My wife, M, and I catch the red eye to Charlotte. Wheels up at SFO right on time, wheels down in Charlotte, uh, one hour early?! Unfortunately for us, daylight savings time hit us in the middle of the flight. That means we have a 4 ½ hour layover, not 3 ½. And the US Airways lounge doesn’t open until 5:30 am. 45 minutes to wait. Who the heck planned this trip anyway! Oh, right, never mind. However, Charlotte does have some very nice rocking chairs in the terminal! Anyway, no problem to Nassau and Southern Air is only 15 minutes late.
We touch down at the Stella Maris airport, er, landing strip, and are taken forthwith to Cape Santa Maria Resort, henceforth known as CSM. We ride with another couple, Bob and Liza from NYC. It’s their first trip to CSM as it is ours. I guess they are regulars in St. Martin and wanted to try something different.
CSM
We are the first people to check into CSM. It’s November 1; the first day of the season. Check-in is quick and easy. So, dump the gear into the bungalow, which is right on the beach. And let’s be clear, ALL the bungalows and villas are right on the beach. We change and jump in the water. The sand is Bora Bora soft, or for this venue, Anguilla soft. The water is so warm and so shallow, I can walk a hundred yards from the shore. It’s gorgeous.
Off for drinks, and Cindy makes us rum punches. A little too sweet for us (which is saying a lot!) and I switch to Kalik and M has wine.
I’m not going to bore everybody with food and wine stories, so let’s just say the food at CSM is excellent. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. All good. I will say the grouper, prepared any which way, is outstanding. So fresh and tasty. The fruit in the morning is always fresh. Some of the wait staff are in training, but always friendly and always putting in the effort. That’s not something you see everywhere in the islands, or in the states, or in Europe, etc, etc.
FYI, we are on the MAP plan – breakfast and dinner. Not our usual gig, but CSM looked to be very far from anything else on the island…and it is. I would highly recommend the MAP for anyone visiting.
Rooms
Our room, #3, has a wall-in air conditioner and it was loud. Unusually, startling loud. We were thinking that it was probably because it hadn’t been used for a couple of months. So, we figure we’d give it the day to sort itself out. It did not. So we talked to Ewa, one of the managers about the room and she immediately checked us into room #19. A/C was quiet (thermostat with an outside unit) – and we can hear the waves.
The rooms are nice and clean. At night, they’re a little dark, but I’d rather have that than blazing neon!
One night, during our sunset drinks, three dolphins decide to pay us a visit! One “surfed” his way in on a small wave no more than 30 feet from shore. What a highlight!
CSM Staff
The room switch is just one example of the incredible service and thoughtfulness we experienced at CSM. The staff, from Ewa and her husband, Brook, to Sherline at the front desk and Maxine in the restaurant and everyone else, were so friendly and helpful, I would return just for that type of service. Although, Maxine promised me a guava duff, but sadly, it was not to be. Sigh.
I "taught" one of the bartenders how to make a painkiller, and he did an awesome job. He actually came in the next night with a bartender’s guide to study how to make other drinks!
Day Trips
We rent a car to explore the island – a Nissan Sentra for $82. Oh, this poor car. It’s missing a rearview mirror, which it turns out, I don’t really need as there is no traffic. But, it will not go above 50. Uh uh, no way. And when we get to Salt Pond, the transmission slips and now won’t go above 20. M, thinking she’s in the Amazing Race, flags a car going the other way; she thinks it’s a taxi. He stops (you gotta love the islands!), backs up 50 yards and its not a taxi, but instead a pastor with the Church of Christ and an “I Love Jesus” hat. We have a little chat and he tells us to follow him to the nearest mechanic. We do and he drives off with a little wave. Wow. I go in, a mechanic comes out, checks everything he can check and tells us the transmission is probably shot and there’s nothing he can do. I understand that, offer him some cash for his time, but he too waves me off. He says when, not if, it happens again, pull over, turn off the engine and restart it. So, over the course of the day, we do this a half dozen times. Ya gotta love Caribbean rental cars!
Anyway, we make it to the end of the island, 80 miles to Gordons beach, and it is lovely. But, someone really needs to put a bar on this beach! I would have gladly forked over what money I had for a cold Kalik and a cheesburger, or grouper burger, or conch burger...you get my drift. It reminded me of Savannah’s on Virgin Gorda.
We stop for lunch at Rowdy Boys at Winter Haven for lunch for a couple of sandwiches and diet cokes ($28). The food is just ok, but we have a great view of the Atlantic. We snorkel at Dean’s Blue Hole which, for me, is a must see and must do. The snorkeling is just ok, but the thought that you’re swimming over a hole that 2000 feet deep is kinda cool. We stop briefly at Stella Maris; CSM looks to be much nicer and not as worn down.
*******************
We decide to walk the entire CSM beach. We are told it would take 2 to 3 hours and to bring water. It does and we do. The house at the end of the beach sits on a point and has three cannons; one of which points directly at CSM. I tell Ewa this later that night and she promises not to tick them off.
*******************
Up one morning for a snorkeling trip. There are five of us, not including Captain Bert. Bert tries to take us around the northern tip of the island, but the surf is up (foreshadowing). So, we turn around and head to Coral Gardens. There is coral (duh), barracudas and the usual suspects: angelfish, parrotfish, etc. Then, into Joe’s sound to see stingrays and ospreys (or osprey nests) and then back to a reef for more snorkeling. Clear water and more fish, including a way too curious barracuda(!), make for a great time. Bert tells us all kinds of island stories on the way back where he detours south for a bit. It is a three hour tour and we all had a wonderful outing.
********************
M and I decide to walk to the Columbus Monument. We pack water and snacks and off we go. Don’t let anyone tell you differently, this is a long walk! And there really is not a lot to see until you get there. It's all inland. Once you do, you’re standing on the northernmost tip of the island and it’s very pretty. But, now you’ve got to walk back. Let’s just say that towards the end, when I ask M what she is thinking, she replies “banana daiquiri”.
A Word about Mosquitoes/Noseeums
Ok, what is with these bugs? These guys are tenacious. I almost never get bit…by the second day I have a half dozen bites. M is tastier, she’s up to a dozen. We always bring Cutter with 30% DEET; I’m also using the Deep Woods Off (25%) that CSM provides. You know it’s bad when the natives are complaining. Maxine told us that the entire island had been “fogged” during the summer. And, yes, I understand, it’s the tropics…there are bugs…trust me, after travelling to the Caribbean for 20 years, I get it…but, dang me!
Off to Great Exuma.. to be continued…
Jan 30th, 2010 | 10:49 AM
#2
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Hi DavefromCa,
Thanks for posting-I've been waiting to read how your trip went! I'm so happy you loved CSM. Isn't it just the most beautiful beach? It's almost blinding how white the sand is and how turquoise the water is. I'm glad you made it down to Dean's Blue Hole too. It's a pretty amazing and one of a kind place. We tried driving to Columbus Monument, but with 2 kids in tow, got a bit scared on the crazy dirt road and decided to turn back and have drinks at CSM instead. Did you check out the new villas by chance at CSM? Beautiful! We were scheduled to go out w/Bert one day but ended up not since the weather wasn't cooperating and we had our own boat w/our villa. Glad to hear it was a good trip with him though. So about these painkillers. They are hands down my favorite island drink, and I've been so bummed to find that it's pretty localized to the virgin islands, and I haven't been able to find the right ingredients to make it. Are you up for sharing your recipe? Boy could I use one of those right now!!! Looking forward to your Great Exuma report, and pictures if you can share!
Thanks for posting-I've been waiting to read how your trip went! I'm so happy you loved CSM. Isn't it just the most beautiful beach? It's almost blinding how white the sand is and how turquoise the water is. I'm glad you made it down to Dean's Blue Hole too. It's a pretty amazing and one of a kind place. We tried driving to Columbus Monument, but with 2 kids in tow, got a bit scared on the crazy dirt road and decided to turn back and have drinks at CSM instead. Did you check out the new villas by chance at CSM? Beautiful! We were scheduled to go out w/Bert one day but ended up not since the weather wasn't cooperating and we had our own boat w/our villa. Glad to hear it was a good trip with him though. So about these painkillers. They are hands down my favorite island drink, and I've been so bummed to find that it's pretty localized to the virgin islands, and I haven't been able to find the right ingredients to make it. Are you up for sharing your recipe? Boy could I use one of those right now!!! Looking forward to your Great Exuma report, and pictures if you can share!
Jan 30th, 2010 | 04:54 PM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
That was a good call on the Columbus Monument. CSM told us to take the bikes there...I didn't get that at all after seeing the road. I guess we could have gotten about a third of the way there.
Painkillers...I like them the way I first had them in the islands. 4 parts pineapple juice, 1 part cream of coconut and 1 part orange juice and then however much Pussers (I like 2 or 3 parts) you can handle. Serve it on the rocks and sprinkle nutmeg on the top. CSM did not have Pussers, so I had them use Myers Dark instead.
Any ideas on how to post pictures here?
Oh, we did not stop at Max's. We weren't hungry the first time we passed, and we had already eaten the second time. Plus, we were a little "conched out" by that time. We probably should have stopped just for a cocktail!
Painkillers...I like them the way I first had them in the islands. 4 parts pineapple juice, 1 part cream of coconut and 1 part orange juice and then however much Pussers (I like 2 or 3 parts) you can handle. Serve it on the rocks and sprinkle nutmeg on the top. CSM did not have Pussers, so I had them use Myers Dark instead.
Any ideas on how to post pictures here?
Oh, we did not stop at Max's. We weren't hungry the first time we passed, and we had already eaten the second time. Plus, we were a little "conched out" by that time. We probably should have stopped just for a cocktail!
Jan 31st, 2010 | 04:47 AM
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 0
Oooh, you just make me want to go there even more!
CSM did you a favor by not having Pusser's for their Painkillers. So much better with a nicer rum! I'm just not a Pusser's rum fan. In fact, at the Pusser's in Annapolis, I routinely order a Painkiller made with Mt. Gay -- the bartenders say that it's a common request and they accomodate it happily.
CSM did you a favor by not having Pusser's for their Painkillers. So much better with a nicer rum! I'm just not a Pusser's rum fan. In fact, at the Pusser's in Annapolis, I routinely order a Painkiller made with Mt. Gay -- the bartenders say that it's a common request and they accomodate it happily.
Feb 1st, 2010 | 08:42 AM
#6
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,368
Likes: 0
Thanks for posting..enjoyed your report.. I think we stayed at 'bunglow #2' last year....love love love that beach...we'll likely go back next year. Laughed about your car rental story...we got lucky and had a decent nissan sentra from Stans car rental...I agree, the staff at CSM was great...
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Feb 2nd, 2010 | 06:43 AM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Ok, so I posted my pictures on Photobucket.com. Album name is CSM November 2009 and my name is, of course, DavefromCA. Anything else I need to do?
I'll try to post our trip to Exuma soon. Don't get too excited...we left early!
I'll try to post our trip to Exuma soon. Don't get too excited...we left early!
Mar 8th, 2010 | 11:22 AM
#12
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
DavefromCA,
Please tell us more. I just looked up their website and it looks just beautiful. They also have excellent rates. My husband and I are real beach people so it looks like it would be perfect for us. That is all we want when on vacation. We don't need shopping or even much night life. Tell us more!!!
Please tell us more. I just looked up their website and it looks just beautiful. They also have excellent rates. My husband and I are real beach people so it looks like it would be perfect for us. That is all we want when on vacation. We don't need shopping or even much night life. Tell us more!!!
Mar 17th, 2010 | 03:19 PM
#13
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Anguillagirl,
Our last island vacation before this one was to Anguilla (we stayed at CA) and Nevis. CSM's beach rivals that of Anguilla's Rendezvous and Shoal Bays. It is gorgeous. The place is very relaxing...we went very early in the season and there was no one around...which we like!
Now, there are not that many food options, certainly not like Anguilla (but then, what is?). But the food at CSM was quite good.
It's a little more rustic than CA!
But the accomodations were fine. I would definitely ask for one of the bungalows south of the Main House.
And it is more difficult to get to than Anguilla. I guess it would be like getting to Anguilla if you HAD to fly into St. Martin first.
I would say if you are looking for a spot that has one of the best beaches I've ever seen, with friendly people and total solitude and relaxation, this is one place you have to visit.
If you decide to go, the Beach Lover's package was excellent. The folks who respond to the request are very nice, also. Even if they are Canadian! (Just kidding!)
If you want more, just ask!
Our last island vacation before this one was to Anguilla (we stayed at CA) and Nevis. CSM's beach rivals that of Anguilla's Rendezvous and Shoal Bays. It is gorgeous. The place is very relaxing...we went very early in the season and there was no one around...which we like!
Now, there are not that many food options, certainly not like Anguilla (but then, what is?). But the food at CSM was quite good.
It's a little more rustic than CA!
But the accomodations were fine. I would definitely ask for one of the bungalows south of the Main House.And it is more difficult to get to than Anguilla. I guess it would be like getting to Anguilla if you HAD to fly into St. Martin first.
I would say if you are looking for a spot that has one of the best beaches I've ever seen, with friendly people and total solitude and relaxation, this is one place you have to visit.
If you decide to go, the Beach Lover's package was excellent. The folks who respond to the request are very nice, also. Even if they are Canadian! (Just kidding!)
If you want more, just ask!
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