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I am in LOVE with a Virgin. iamq's Virgin Gorda trip report.

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I am in LOVE with a Virgin. iamq's Virgin Gorda trip report.

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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 04:09 PM
  #21  
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We ate at home a lot as the view was so gorgeous. There were some days we ended up not leaving the villa at all. We provisioned at a bunch of different places. There is Buck's, Road Town Wholesale, Rosys, and SupaValu. We hit them all in our quest for the best of whatever was out there. Buck's was the place we returned to most often. Buck's has a nice little deli section with a fine selection of prepared foods for take out. We picked up a couple of quiches, some bbq chicken, ribs, and some side dishes and all of it was good. The quiches were REALLY good. No surprise...groceries are expensive. We ate all breakfasts and most luches at home.

Our favorite restaurant on the island based on two dinners is Chez Bamboo. It is a lovely little place that is semi-upscale, but casual at the same time. We ate outdoors in the covered garden area. Our first meal was on our first night on the island and we could not have picked a better place. The staff was ultra-friendly and we sort clicked with our server and the other employees immediately. The menu is very impressive. They have a wide variety of tapas, as well as traditional appetizers and main courses. We decided to do 4 tapas. We ordered the frito misto, chick peas with bacon and spinach, fried goat cheese with fried red peppercorns, and fried duck spring rolls. OMG! Everything was delicious and the portions were HUGE. The pieces of pan fried grouper in the frito misto were uniquely seasoned and very good. I had never had grouper before, and thanks to this successful introduction I ordered it twice more while on island. We had no room for dessert, but the selections looked good. 4 tapas, 3 bottles of fizzy water: $91.00 including 15% service charge.

We went back to Chez Bamboo a week later and both had delicious baked Anegada Lobster! Started with a Manchego and ham Croquette that was good. Dessert was a selection of three homemade ice creams and 3 homemade sorbets. The ice cream was better than the sorbet. With 3 bottles of fizzy water the bill was $212.00 with 15% service. Great place!

Another spot we ended up liking was Top of the Baths. We had lunch and dinner here. Lunch was two curried chicken Roti that were very good. With 4 soft drinks the bill was $48.00 including 15% service.

Dinner here was a bit of a surprise. When we had lunch there the place had a very casual tropical bar sort of flavor. We were both in the mood for something low-key and the view for here is lovely, so we drove down. Yikes. The place changes personality drastically for dinner! It was all very formal (as formal as a place on VG can get, LOL) and upscale. The menu had lots of pasta, seafood and meat selections. We split a Caeser. I had a filet mignon and M had lobster. The lobster was a bit overdone, but the steak was one of the better pieces of meat I've had in a while. Creme brulee and bread pudding for dessert were both good. With 15% service and 2 bottles of fizzy water the bill came to $132.00

Dinner at the Mineshaft was fun. We went for all-you-can-eat ribs night. It is a great place to catch the sunset. Don't go if clucking chickens and crowing roosters bother you though. Yikes, I thought Kauai was bad! I had pan seared grouper that was really tasty, and of course M had the ribs, which he thought were very good. Fun place, casual, full of locals by the time we left and good eats. I think the bill came to around $70.00 with 15% service.

more food later...I'm hungry!
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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 04:33 PM
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Loving the report! And making me hungry. I definitely need to put VG on our list of places to get to sooner rather than later.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 08:16 AM
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Time to get back to this thing...

One of my favorite meals was the Friday bbq that we ate on our deck watching one of the most incredible sunsets ever. As I mentioned before, we bought the bbq from a woman we met on the Air Sunshine flight over from SJ.

She had an amazing selection of standard bbq items (chicken, ribs), but she also had some interesting things that we just had to try. We picked up some bbq pig tails. They looked like little twisty, curvy sausages. The cringe factor was medium, but we got a few of them to try. The other thing we had to try was the the deep fried whole Triggerfish. Triggerfish, known as the Humuhumunukunukuapua'a is the Hawaii state fish and you'd never find that on any menu in Hawaii, so we had to try it here! We picked up some potato salad, smashed plantains, johnny cakes and corn and we were set. The meal was delicious. The chicken and ribs were good, witht he ribs being the winner. The trigger fish was not my cup to tea, being a little too gamey tasting, but Martin loved it. The pigtails were great, but I have to be honest, it was a little strange eating an animal's tail. Oh well...The reat of it was good and it felt good to be eating local food, prepared by locals. If we return, we'd be sure to be there on at least one Friday, so we could visit her again.

The one meal we had on the island that was just dreadful was at the Rock Cafe. They are touted as an upscale place that specializes in lobster. There are five items on the menu that are lobster based and frankly they were the only items that looked good and sounded appealing to us. After we were seated, had placed our drink order, had a chance to look at the menu, we were informed by our server that they didn't have lobster! WTF? We were not happy, but since we had already ordered drinks and had been there for almost 30 minutes we felt we were committed. I was pissed because they could have told us about the lobster situation when we were first seated, but they chose not to. It was sneaky the way it was handled. So we ordered fish instead and shared a salad. The food was a "D" at best, with the fish being overcooked and dry and the preparation shabby at best. The most bizarre thing about the meal was that after we finished, our server walked over and told us that the lobster had just arrived and that is was now on the menu. Another WTF moment. This was around 9 pm at this point. We couldn't get our check quick enough and get the hell out of there. We didn't complain too much because I really didn't want to have too much interaction with the manager. We wrote it off and moved on, but I would not recommend anyone give this place a try. We'd never go back.

One regret I have about our eating experience on VG was that we didn't eat more at the local bbq/homestyle places. They were all over the place, but or one reason or another, we didn't get to them. Thelma's Hideout and M & M Bakery would be on the top of our list if/when we do return to the island.

Wrap up next...
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 10:03 AM
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Bill -- Interesting/unfortunate story about Rock Cafe. We ate there once and thought it was OK but not great. Does it look like they are rebuilding Georgio's Table? How about the restaurant at Nail Bay? Also curious if the restaurants were empty. We felt sad for restaurant owners last summer because a few times we were the only diners.

I understand how eating on the deck at Adagio would be a highlight. Even a peanut butter sandwich tasted great while soaking up the view. But, we would definitely follow your lead and pick up bbq if/when we visit again. We'll probably pass on pig's tail however
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 11:15 AM
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Funny how your dining experiences were the opposite of ours--we could barely eat the food at Chez Bamboo and our two best dinners were tied between Rock Cafe and Giorgio's, with Rock Cafe being about half the cost of Giorgio's, so it won for best overall. Just goes to show how hard it is to compare restaurants from one night to the next, much less from one year to the next!

Glad you're in love with VG, too. Reliving my memories through your trip report is making it that much more difficult to decide which island I want to return to next: Anguilla or VG. They're both so much easier to get to than Grenada, my other longtime favorite.

I've never had pig's tail (I did try oxtail soup once, though) but reading that reminded me of a scene in one of the Little House on the Prairie books where Mary and Laura think it's the biggest treat to be able to eat the pig tail and play with the inflated bladder. ah, those were the days!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 12:10 PM
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Hi Carol and Emily,

That is interesting about your experiences at the Rock Cafe and Chez Bamboo. I am glad that CB was good as it was. I am sorry that your experiences there were not as good as ours. Emily. I am remembering something now...as we were leaving the Rock, at the front door the manager was having a rather serious discussion with this man and I overheard the man telling the manager in an accented voice (French, perhaps) something about needing a chef or something like that. I imagine it is hard to find talented people to work at the restaurants. Like I said if/when we return I would like to eat at more of the local places just to have that experience.

No, they were not rebuilding Giorgios. Someone told me that they were planning to, but then there was another rock slide that happened and that put the stops on that. I was looking forward to eating there. I hope he does something.

Yes, the restaurants were pretty deserted. We were the only customers during our dinnner at the Top of the Baths. That is really a great place to watch the sunset btw. There were more customers at both Chez Bamboo and the Rock, however they were in no way busy or even close.

It seemed like the whole island was fairly quiet. There were only about 3 or 4 of the villas at Mahoe that were occupied while we were there.

They are building a new villa right in front of the villa to the right of Adagio. Kelly said it is going to be a two bed two bath villa. Not sure how good of a view of the water it will have as it seemed to be built on low side so as not impacat the view of the one behind it. It will be interesting to see pictures of it when it is done. It is owned by the guy who owns Beachcomber villa there.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 02:43 PM
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very soothing to read

mo' pleeze!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 03:00 PM
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I forgot one sort of funny story that falls into the category of "Stupid Tourist Tricks" or something like that.

As I mentioned above, we took the Biras Creek ferry out to the Fat Virgin Cafe for lunch. It was a very fun trip and it was good to see a bit of the north sound. The ferry leaves and drops off at Gun Creek. It is only about a five or ten minute ride and you get a nice view and it felt good to be out on the water.

Lunch at Fat Virgin was good. There were a few yachties having lunch there. I had a burger and martin had grouper curry roti. The roti was the clear winner, but I had a hankering for a burger and fries, and it felt good to have that satisfied. With a couple of soft drinks the tab came to $34.00 with tip. Not bad for lunch and a boat ride. We struck up a lively conversation with the two ladies that were working there and shared a few laughs with them.

They have a cute little gift shop there and we took turns going in to snoop around while we waited for the check. I bought a very cute Biras Creek tee shirt for 50% off! While Martin was in shopping, the ferry showed up and started loading passengers for the ride back. I jumped up and got him and we quickly boarded the ferry on our way back. About half way back, Martin asked me, "Did you remember the bag?" I said, "No. Didn't you have it?" He said, "No. I thought you had it." And it want back and forth that way for a few moments longer. The "bag" is the beach bag that had our wallets, camera, car key, phone and other things in. S&#t! So, we had to go back and retrieve it (hopefully it was still going to be there). That meant waiting another thirty minutes for the return ferry and then another 30 minutes for trip back to Gun Creek.

Well...we got a huge break, as there was some need to get the boat right back to Biras, so instead of having to wait thirty minutes, we an immediate turn around back to Biras. That was great! What was even greater was that when we pulled into the dock and nervously walked up to the restuarant we saw the bag. Yay! The other thing we saw was the puzzled look on the faces of the gals at the Fat Virgin. When they figured it out they started smiling and then laughing at our studpidity and at our luck. Whew! We were prepared to wait another 30 minutes for the return ferry...what did we care? We had the bag...life was good. Well, as it turned out a boat mechanic at Biras needed a lift back to Gun Creek, so we tagged along on a smaller runabout. You couldn't have asked for a better outcome for a potentially awful situation. The Goddess of the Fat Virgin was smiling on us that day! Even fairly experienced travelers eff-up. My guess is that one won't happen again though. LOL!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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I love that story! Reminds me of one I read about Grenada that made me choose it as a destination. A tourist had left behind his bag, with camera & wallet, etc, after stopping along the road to make some pictures. By the time he noticed it was missing it was about two hours later. When he got back to the location where he remembered stopping, there was a Grenadian sitting there with the bag. He had stumbled upon it and was just waiting around to guard it until the owner came back. I love that story, too. Imagine, just sitting there for who knows how long to guard a bag that someone was careless enough to leave behind!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 03:41 PM
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mmmm - local grinds. so many years ago we bareboated BVI. We picked up a mooring in Little Harbour, Jost van Dyke. A little girl named Kayleigh met us at the dock and asked us where we were from and if we were coming for supper? She then took a piggyback ride on my shoulders to pay her auntie the mooring tariff. Oh there was a heavenly scent coming from her kitchen. Mrlou asked, and she simply said, oh I'm just cooking some beef for my family.

It wasn't Harry's, where we had the most amazing conch fritters, or sydneys but the other side of the harbor.

When we arrived at dinner, and had ordered, out came a big complimentary bowl of the most amazing carribean homecooked beef stew with 4 spoons. It was really the highlight of the meal! And Kayleigh was the lite of the harbour.

But that was many years ago..

Local grinds rock!
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 04:28 PM
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The thing I enjoyed most about Virgin Gorda was the friendly, courteous and neighborly attitude exhibited by the local Vigin Gordians. An example: Everyone gives everyone else what I called little "love honks" of their car horns. We even started doing it! It was great. Another thing we caught on quick with was waving at people from the car. It was so fun to see a person's face light up and smile back at you just because you waved a little as you were passing them. Such a simple gesture and one with such a large potential pay-off. I loved it. This sort of behavior and attitude might be customary on many islands, but as I said before the only other Caribbean Island I've been to has been St. John and I didn't see anything that even came close to this there and it was the most pleasant of surprises. M is a naturally congenial, courteous and overtly friendly person and he was in his glory!

What a great trip. I would be happy to answer any questions that you might have.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 04:30 PM
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Loved the food story gyppie! What a pleasure that must have been!

Great story, Emily.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 05:13 PM
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iamq,
thanks so much for your great TR! Loved it! Brings me back. We stayed at Caribbean Wind on Mahoe Bay 3 years ago. It's still one of my favorite places. We too had a bad experience coming and going w/Air Sunshine (I think ours was compounded with having 2 kids under age 1 with us at the time and everyone being double charged coming and going) so unfortunately we probably won't be returning until our kids are older and we don't mind taking 2 planes and a ferry (STT to Beef, then ferry over), but we would definitely stay on Mahoe again. VG is one of my favorite islands. Spectacular villas on Mahoe, gorgeous sunsets, private, and oh, what an island! I agree with you on getting to the Baths early -we did the same times as you and could literally see the people "storming" the beaches on day trips come 10:30! Those caves were amazing though! It cracks me up that the picture of the baths is the "generic" screen saver on my mac! It is wonderful how friendly the people are (St. Lucia is a lot like that too). Thanks again for sharing-and your pictures were great. Looks like you had a fun time!

gypie, your jokes crack me up! too funny
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 06:20 PM
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Thanks kelly. Caribbean Wind was my favorite house on the beach at Mahoe. Nice pool area.
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Old Jun 26th, 2009, 07:17 PM
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"love honks" -- great name for them. Grenada is full of 'em. Honk for hello, honk for goodbye. honk for passing. Honk for being passed. Honk for please. Honk for thank you. And so on.

Anguilla? Not so much. I didn't realize how much I enjoyed participating in the love honks until I was on Anguilla--and was the only one honking. Got a few strange looks!
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Old Jun 28th, 2009, 06:30 AM
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Hi iamq,

Loved your pictures and report! We were there this past February and your post has brought back so many wonderful memories of our trip! Gosh, wish we could go again soon, but there are so many other places on our to do list before we will have the opportunity to go back. Until then, living vicariously through trip reports like yours!

Thanks so much for sharing!
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Old Jun 28th, 2009, 06:42 AM
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Thanks Jayneann. Living vicariously is what trip reports are all about!
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Old Jun 30th, 2009, 03:56 AM
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Thanks for sharing you pictures. British Virgin Islands are lovely.
I read you are looking to go next to Turks? There are great beaches there!!!
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Old Jun 30th, 2009, 08:11 AM
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Great trip report. I am going to have to go back to VG. Savannah Bay is my number one beach in the Caribbean! Your trip was quite the adventure. Your "bag" story is one I can relate to...I left our camera in a taxi in Grenada. The next day, Sunday, the driver came back to the resort and delivered the camera. Of course, he was dressed to go to church and brought his entire family.

Thanks again for the TR!
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Old Jun 30th, 2009, 10:21 AM
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Great trip report. Making me want to give VG another try. When we were there in '02, we had a hard time finding decent groceries, but it sounds like things have changed...
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