BERMUDA TRIP REPORT
#1
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BERMUDA TRIP REPORT
Just returned from a week-long visit (3rd time)to Bermuda. Will be happy to answer any questions, if they apply, and will make additional comments below. <BR> <BR>My husband and I were happy to report that we enjoyed a rather decent 85-88 degrees, humid with breezes during the week, with some spotty showers, avoiding the current heat wave back at home in the metro NYC area -- we read in the news, it was hotter in NY than on the island of Bermuda. <BR> <BR>Returning to Bermuda on this visit, we were honestly disappointed only because we usually travel during early high season around (Memorial Day) May 25-31. I'll explain on the next post.
#2
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Hi Maggie. We love Bermuda and have been there many many times but never in July or August. We have been there in late May and early June and most often in mid - to late September, so I am very curious as to why you were disappointed. This yesr we are going in early October!
#3
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Please let me know why you were dissapointed this time! We're thinking of going next october for our honeymoon. I'm not sure how warm the weather will be in early Fall, and other than the beautiful beaches I hear about, I'm not sure if there is much else to do!
#4
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hi maggie;we just returned also(july)our 2nd & loved it. curious where u stayed and why? any dissapointments? mine was finding out the beach at the dockyard was damaged by a storm and closed ,that was my main reason for visiting that side of the island. im not a shopper thanks mike
#5
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Ashleigh Bermuda is a unique and beautiful island, with lots to do and explore. Early October it is still nice and warm, the water is very comfotable and nice empty beaches. We were there last year in early October and plan to return this October a little later! <BR>
#6
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Sorry for the delay - literally just got back from a week-long visit to our favorite island Friday night, the closest thing to paradise for these overly-stressed NY'ers. <BR> <BR>The only disappointment I want to share, though many may not agree, was that my husband and I were truly upset and expected "something else" when we attended the first "Harbour Nights" celebration -- a NYC street festival equivalent, with crafts, music, drinks along Front Street in Hamilton last Wednesday, August 8th. We felt along with the shopkeepers and the staff at our hotel (White Sands Cottages) that the overwhelming amount of American tourists, was a bit much, especially the younger folk: true MTV types with their belly-baring halter tops, and lewd behavior for all of ultra-conservative Bermuda to see. <BR> <BR>We are in our late 20's and would like to think of ourselves as pretty laid-back, and accepting of others in public, but we both couldn't help but feel the complete lack of respect, regard, or sensitivity displayed by these young tourists, behaving like they were celebrating "Carnival" or worse, Bourbon Street behavior. <BR> <BR>It is wrong to visit other countries and behave so arrogantly without thinking about the impact you make on the local culture. A lot of these younger types were tossing around Front Street as if the festival were a human-meat-market-bar. <BR> <BR>We were told by one of the staffers at White Sands, one of the few true English establishments left on the island, that they too, feel "invaded" by cruise ships' visitors, leaving their mark as if they were the only visitors to the island. <BR> <BR>The event was recommended by a shopkeeper at the Royal Navy Dockyard, where we spent most of the day, browsing and enjoying the local sights in Sandy's Parish. <BR> <BR>In the last three years, we've flown to Bermuda, and were always curious about taking one of the many cruise ships out of the West side of Manhattan. <BR> <BR>However, we know now, not to arrive during the week in high season: cruise ships arrive midday Monday, and depart Friday. The island is a lot more crowded than usual, and the locals will vouche for this. <BR> <BR>We'll return to Bermuda, mainly the way we used to: late May/June, and October only. <BR> <BR>Otherwise, this in no way impedes our love for Bermuda -- just limiting our visits to the weekends only, or avoiding "Harbour Nights" in Hamilton altogether. <BR> <BR>The phrase, "to each his own", does not strictly apply, especially when one leaves a mark as red and real as those who have no respect for other cultures. <BR> <BR> <BR>
#7
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Also wanted to add some comments about the hotel where we've stayed during the last three visits: White Sands Hotel & Cottages, Paget Parish, South Shore. <BR> <BR>This is one of the last few smaller hotels (only 35 rooms) with three individual family cottages overlooking Grape Bay) and properties that feels like you're visiting your English Grandmother, complete with stress-free unscheduled activities, enjoying afternoon tea daily 4-5 p.m. <BR> <BR>After major renovations were completed in their terrace wings, the new furnishings: Eddie Bauer inspired/colonial/Bombay teak furniture, and new fabrics has added a new feel to the property. <BR> <BR>What my husband and I love the most, is that the hotel has exclusive rights on Grape Bay Beach, a secluded, private beach in Paget's South shore, where we've never seen more than a dozen people either in the water or sunbathing ashore. I probably shouldn't advertise the privacy here, but it truly feels like your-summer-home-away-from-home. <BR> <BR>Their main restaurant, The Captain's Table, serves mainly continental fare, but it is out of this world: deservedly very good; well prepared meals, choice of seafood, beef, veal, and lamb -- very good overall. Appetizers include quail, cod/crab cakes....delicious! <BR> <BR>Their new staff could use a little more congenial training, but outside of that, I recommend it for one, it's close proximity to Hamilton (a 5 minute taxi ride), and it's beach location. <BR> <BR>Hope this all helps...if I don't respond right away, don't worry, I'll be on this site on and off during the days. <BR> <BR>
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#8
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Also wanted to add that we've yet to venture onto the ubiquitous symbol of transportation in Bermuda -- yes, the scooter. We've not tried it yet, and everytime we go to Bermuda, we always say, "this time we'll try it." <BR> <BR>As always, we skip the scooter altogether and instead go for the safety in taxi's, despite the habitual tail-gating the majority of drivers do on the island. Don't know about the other mode of transportion, either, the bus -- it seems okay, but cannot vouche for this either. <BR> <BR>
#9
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Wanted to make additional comments on the weather last week (Aug 5-10). <BR> <BR>We were told by our taxi driver, that his wife finds the heat (85-88 F degrees) oppressive, and extremely HOT! He said for Bermudians, the heat and humidity is a lot for them. He added that his wife won't even go outside, and opts for indoor activities during this time of year, funny, huh -- for islanders...show them the heat and humidity on the streets of downtown Manhattan with the smell of auto exhaust,sewers, and asbestos in the air....ah! That's a complaint! <BR> <BR>
#10
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Hi Maggie. I have questions for you. <BR>I've never been to Bermuda, but heard it's gorgeous. I am going there for my honeymoon next year (the end of June) and tossed between two different places to stay. We are considering either Pompano or Cambridge Beaches. Have you been to any of these or recommend one over the other. Or if you have any other place to recomend, I would love to hear it. Thanks Maggie (and any others for their input)
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Congratulations Alley! <BR> <BR>Since I'm still on vacation (at home), I have time to reply. <BR> <BR>I'll be happy to recommend some places for you, but keep in mind these are the preferences that both my husband and I share, which might be different from what you think of as "quaint, quiet, or private," all relative terms meaning a whole slew of things to different people.....just keep in mind...different strokes for different folks. <BR> <BR>The island of Bermuda is an ideal choice for your honeymoon. There's something for everyone. I recommend taking a careful look at all the lodging options on the official site of the Dept. of Tourism for Bermuda, here's their link: www.bermudatourism.org, at least before you make that final decision. <BR> <BR>You'll find all the categories of all the places you'd consider. <BR> <BR>Luckily, you were able to narrow it down to those two properties that you mentioned on your earlier post: Pompano & Cambridge Beaches. We have not stayed at either hotel, yet. Both hotels have always been on our priority list, but somehow we chose the White Sand Hotel & Cottages in place of them, three years in a row. <BR> <BR>There are three other properties that we're planning on trying upon our next visit. They are as follows: Waterloo House, Horizons & Cottages, and finally the quirky, newcomer to the island, Daniel's Head Village. <BR> <BR>The White Sands Hotel & Cottages has been able to suit our needs so far: privacy, location, and personal service. This small hotel sits high on a bluff, safe from the storms overlooking the secluded, private Grape Bay Beach, surrounded by residential properties. (Read my above posting; it should give you a better idea). <BR> <BR>If you're familiar with English B&B's they're a little on the "rough" side -- picture your grandmother trying to accommodate you; not everything will be perfect, including their outdoor furniture, which could use an upgrade -- they just finished renovating their Terrace Wing (the only rooms we've stayed)of the 35 rooms in the hotel. Don't go for the Garden Rooms: it's the view of the neighbors and White Sands Road, based on the positioning of the rooms. <BR> <BR>The best room, we believe is in the Main house, room #222 on the top floor, which feels like you're staying in a cylindrical castle complete with a 280 degree view of the ocean. However, were told last week, that the room will be renovated in the coming months, so ask first if it's available. <BR> <BR>Otherwise, again...to each his own. We'd love to try Waterloo House, which has exclusive rights to a private beach, but is housed in Hamilton, not the South Shore, with direct access to the water. Also, Horizons & Cottages has been recommended highly on Conde Nast's Gold List, but has to share the beach with the exclusive, member-only Coral Sands Beach Club, I believe that's the name. <BR> <BR>Well, good luck making your final decision. After visiting, Anguilla (Cap Juluca) via St. Martin last April, we're happier for our sun getaways in Bermuda. Our experiences span from Bali, the Philippines, and closer to NY are the Hamptons: it's really NOT the beach, it's the location. <BR>
#12
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Maggie I enjoyed reading your comments. I agree with you about The Harbor Nights, I believe they were started to help sales at he shops along Front street, to capture the cruise ship customers! <BR>Grape Bay Beach is lovely and well hidden! We had looked at Grape Bay Cottages about 10 years ago, very nice location. <BR>I have never been inside White Sands Hotel, but I read in The Bermuda Gazette last year that the new owner is from New Jersey! <BR>I love the ambience of the Waterloo House, but its too far from the beach from us . I wll have to inquire which private beach they use, I thought it was Coral Sands too! <BR>Other nice cottage colonies are Ariel Sands, Pink Beach and Cambridge Beaches. <BR>Bermuda is one of our favorite islands! <BR>As you know we talked about Anguilla and Cap Juluca but Bermuda is very special and one of our favorite little gems. Only a short hop from NYC area and a fast trip.
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A quick follow-up re: Horizons and Cottages. We have just returned from a week there (August) and loved it, but it's "our kind of place," i.e. quieter and not for the rowdy, wet t-shirt crowd mentioned above. I'll file a separate, longer commentary thread when I get a few minutes. But briefly: Waterloo House is a sister property to Horizons and Cottages, and both are sister properties to the Coral Beach Club. Both Waterloo House and HC are members of the RElais & Chateax association, if you know the style (charming rooms, excellent service, very good food.) Coral BEach shares the large Elbow BEach with the public beach and other hotels (Elbow BEach and Stonington.) The beach is beautiful, plenty of room, i.e. not crowded even on the weekend. <BR>From either Waterloo House or H & C, you can walk to the public beach, or go to Coral BEach Club. HOWEVER, note that even if you are a guest at either hotel, there will be a charge of $10 pp weekdays or $15 per person on weekends at CB. This fee will get you towels, chairs, umbrella, a nice changing/shower room, access to on-site outdoor (or indoor) dining spots for members only. There are also all sorts of spa services for additional fees, but I didn't use any of them (the beach weather was too good.) The atmosphere at CB is a quite nice, old-money club. If things seem a little clique-ish, it's only that many people here know each other and are regular members. Everyone is very nice. <BR>My husband and I tried both the public beach and went a number of times to COral beach. While we're always people who don't like to waste money, the CB experience is really quite nice in that old-glamour kind of way, and we opted for it. Still, if the fee bothers you, the public beach is very nice, and Blue WAters is on the beach for umberlla rentals, etc. Check also by the Elbow BEach area for other rentals. <BR>I should also mentioned that I, too, would have been VERY disappointed by the sound of the Front Street Fair -- not what I usually associate with classy Bermuda. I hope they don't go in this direction for their events. You can find this at any spring-break type of vacation venue. Most of the cruise tourists seem pretty decent. <BR>Re: buses. My husband and I use them all the time, as well as taxis. We haven't done the scooters yet. I understand that scooters will allow you more flexibilty, but if this is a first trip, the buses go to all the major sites and then some, and taxis are a good option. I've seen one too many cycle spills to be that confident on them. My sense is that first-time users tend to think of them as having the lightness and maneuverability of bicycles, when they are heavier and can get up their own momentum on a sparp curve. This is not to dicourage you since many people we meet swear by them (including a pair of young seniors who have gone to Bermuda for many years,) but be careful in their handling.
#14
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'Should also mention that we stopped by The Reefs, where we have stayed before, and it is looking good. A capsule comparison with H & C: The Reefs is a small hotel, right on its own lovely beach; good to very good food with dine around options at other small hotels (e.g. Ariel Sands); incredibly warm, charming, helpful staff. When we stayed, we thought our room was a bit cramped, but it seems like that is the section that was recently renovated into suites. The horizon pool is new and nice, but still on the small side. <BR>H & C is a cottage colony and a main house with rooms, and gives an old-money feel. The cottage rooms are clustered around common living room areas, all with separate entrances so that you can have all the privacy you desire. Our cottage room was very spacious; service excellent and warm but a bit more reserved in a European way; EXCELLENT food, with dine-around options at WAterloo House and Coral BEach; the beach is a relatively short walk away, but does involve going up and down some hills. <BR> <BR>The main H & C house is parked on top of a hillside, and has an incredibly beautiful view from the dining terrace that overlooks the sea vista from on high. If the weather looks like sprinkles, the French doors open and still allow for some nice breezes. At the Reefs, there is the on-the-beach Coconuts, and the main dining room and terrace above.
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Hi Penny! <BR> <BR>How have your summer travels been? <BR> <BR>I remember you very well, along with Karen; though I haven't seen her postings recently -- either I'm out of the loop, or she's traveling again. <BR> <BR>I think the Four Seasons chain needs to consider opening a site in Bermuda; it would surely add to the small options of higher end properties on the island. It happens to be one of the only few chains we'll stay, including Jimbaran Bay in Indonesia -- they've perfected a lot of customers' wants. <BR> <BR>Bermuda sounds like an excellent opportunity for them. <BR> <BR>My husband & I have to deal with so much "canned chatter" and forced "socializing" and "meetings" in our everyday life -- I can't stand going on vacation and having to put up with the same thing. We want to "get away" and so far, Cap Juluca Resort fit that bill, but closer to home, with little time to travel (even the drive to the airports: JFK/EWR is a trek) is a chore in itself. <BR> <BR>That's why we chose to stay at the White Sands: privacy & beach location. We took naps on the beach at Grape Bay, and throughout the day, no more than a dozen people were there (ashore or in the water). This is our main reason for choosing this property. Otherwise, we'd outright purchase land if we could. <BR> <BR>Have to share a story with you on our last visit (last week) to Bermuda. The few days prior to our departure, was a storm brewing off the coast of Florida, and was heading due Northeast toward Bermuda. On the day of our departure, this same storm had made its way up the coast of the Carolinas into the path of our flight. <BR> <BR>As of departure time and well into 30 min. of the 1hr. 45 min. flight from NY, our pilot notified us that everything was fine: no bad weather to report, on-time arrival into St. George's. <BR> <BR>However, during our approach, (sitting in front on the left side facing the aircraft) I could see a series of thick, dense, gray clouds with spotted lightning, covering a large land mass, but not quite sure if the land mass was Bermuda. From a short distance away, I said, the pilot is in no way going through that. <BR> <BR>Low and behold he did. As we approached the airport, the sun was peaking through some low clouds, but when we got closer to the runway, within a few minutes of landing, the pilot, forcibly edged upwards and aborted our landing, seeing rain and wind encapsuling our aircraft. <BR> <BR>I was frightened to say the least. The pilot announced that he was sorry for the aborted landing, but couldn't fathom landing in such horrid conditions. We ended up circling the island, attempting another landing approach. <BR> <BR>As we approached the airport for the second time, visibly seeing the runway in front of us, the pilot, again, lifted the nose and aborted landing a second time! <BR> <BR>My nerves were so frayed; the cabin of the plane was so quiet -- I think everyone was praying if not wondering if "we were going to make it?" <BR> <BR>I've never experienced anything like that -- having traveled through snowstorms in Edinburgh and Glascow, and landing in storms at JFK via British Airways. <BR> <BR>To make this long story short(er), we finally arrived over 1hr. 15 min. behind schedule, but safe and alive to report it. <BR> <BR>The pilot was given a calm applause upon our approach to the Gate. <BR> <BR>Thanks for listening/reading.
#16
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Oh Maggie that is quite a flight experience!!! We fly quite frequently and my husband use to travel alot in his banking job, but have never had that experience! Knock on wood! <BR>I cannot believe the pilot flew into that storm!! Windshear etc. One of my favorite landings is flying into Bermuda, as you do not have to deal with air trafic ect. and it is such a relaxing trip! Was your flight the AA flight out of JFk, we fly that when Continential does not have an morning flight. Friends of mine were on that flight November of 99 when I heard there was an emergency landing and the plane had to dump its fuel over Long Island. A goose flew into one of the engines and it shut down! Nerve racking! <BR>Maggie thanks for sharing, I have to run and I will post again. I agree Bermuda needs some better hotel choices. It will be interesting to see the how Rosewood does the old Castle Harbour!
#19
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Alley, <BR>I've stayed at Cambridge Beaches and would highly recommend it. There are three lovely little beaches and a large pool - and all were fairly deserted whenever we used them last September. The spa and indoor pool area were fabulous. The dining room was very romantic and served excellent food; they also participate in the dine-around. We stayed in a smaller room, but did have a glorious ocean view from our patio. The rooms are connected/housed in cottages scattered through-out the property. It really felt like paradise in Great Britain. I would definitely return to Cambridge Beaches. However, I'm also curious about The Reefs and Ariel Sands. Let me know if you have any other specific questions. <BR> <BR>
#20
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What a snob!!!! In all our trips we have NEVER seen Americans acting lewdley... We arrive by ship and have been to Harbor Night in Hamilton several times.. and have never seen anything that you speak of or either in St. George. Bermuda hAS gotten warmer and more humid and we've run into several air conditioned buses. We usually travel by the way over Memorial Day or mid-September.. The Bermudians can't have it their way..tourists and no ships.. The island is very expensive and even with capacity limited on cruise ships and more does and don'ts from their Government people come in from mid-April to the end of October and leave lots of $$$$. Because the island is so expensive to stay several hotels have closed.. Cut off the cruise ships and many of the shops may as well not open, especially in St. George..I;ve never found a rude Bermudian..

