Back From St. John
Nov 23rd, 2005, 05:19 AM
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Back From St. John
Just returned from 5 days in St. John... 5 nearly perfect days! After a very busy and stressful 9 months, we had had enough and decided we needed to get away even if it could only be 5 days (last chance before the holidays). When we arrived in St. Thomas on Wednesday, we decided to go straight to the car ferry rather than do any provisional shopping. We figured we'd just pick up a couple of things in Coral Bay on the way to our house. After such a long time away, we were anxious to see the condition of things. Happy to say that despite high level of rains this past year, the house was found in good condition. The island is very green. We opened up the house and took a late afternoon swim in our beloved Johnson Bay. I was overjoyed to take my first nighttime outdoor shower in the balmy weather with the stars above and cicadas and tree frogs singing. We knew we would go to Miss Lucy's for my husband's birthday dinner the following night, and we debated about where to go for dinner. We decided what the heck, we'd go to Miss Lucy's as often as possible because it was full moon and the views are spectacular. It did not disappoint! The chef and owner, Guy, roasts native pigs and serves a special limited menu during the few days of full moon, and at the height of the full moon, which was our first night on the island, he had live music as well. The atmosphere is very laid back, the food was delicious and the moon was amazing, lighting up Coral Bay. We returned 2 more times to enjoy this very unique spot.
The weather was beautiful with brief rain only at night. Our neighbor said we had great luck as it had been raining everyday for a week before our arrival. The temperatures and humidity were also perfect, almost crisp at an average of about 80-82 degrees with a soft breeze. The water was also very comfortable and clear. We enjoyed every morning with a cup of gourmet coffee (which I bring with us) and a light breakfast on our porch overlooking the water. (I do have to get around to putting together pictures at some point). Sometimes we take a walk along the beach (within a 3 minute walk from the house) in the mornings. We went to my husband and daughter's favorite beach, Maho. It is placid, sandy and modest snorkeling. My husband and I take turns snorkeling while the other stays with the kid. Well, I love to snorkel but did not expect to see much at Maho. I decided I'd swim around the point to Francis Bay. Well, I never got that far! Near the point, in deeper water around 20 feet or so, a big flash of silver went by. I didn't quite see what it was but it was as big as me, so I thought hhmmhh... all alone out here, nobody else within hundreds of yards... maybe not a good idea. I'm usually intrepid, but it was also late afternoon, so I decided to turn back. Well, I turned and came face to face with an enormous tarpon. I've never seen them this big and this close before. This guy was nearly 5 feet. On my return swim, I saw 5 more of these enormous, kind of scary looking fish all between 5 and 6 feet long! One followed me a little getting close enough to touch. Saw several southern stingrays as well. A few small barracudas, but those tarpon were really impressive. I must have interrupted their feeding. There were many balls of baby fish swimming in the area.
We spent most of our water time this trip in our neighbor's boat. We took the boat to Vie's beach in Hansen Bay and had a glorious lunch on Saturday, enjoying her pristine beach and her delectable garlic chicken, conch fritters and the best spicy rice and beans ever! A couple of cold beers and homemade tarts...! HEAVEN! We also set up a pup tent on the boat for my daughter the princess to nap in while we anchored near Turner Point and snorkeled one of the many underwater canyons around St. John. We also explored one of the offshore islands, Leduck. These places are easily reached by a small boat which you can rent at a place like Crabby's in Coral Bay. We had so much fun snorkeling around Leduck that I plan to return and circum-snorkelate it on the next trip. As much time as I've spent on St. John, I've still only snorkeled a fraction of the possibilities.
A short trip, but I think we packed it with plenty to do and plenty of doing nothing. Can't wait to return in January. Sorry to prattle on, but I know the rest of you St. John afficionados don't mind! Please feel free to ask any questions.
The weather was beautiful with brief rain only at night. Our neighbor said we had great luck as it had been raining everyday for a week before our arrival. The temperatures and humidity were also perfect, almost crisp at an average of about 80-82 degrees with a soft breeze. The water was also very comfortable and clear. We enjoyed every morning with a cup of gourmet coffee (which I bring with us) and a light breakfast on our porch overlooking the water. (I do have to get around to putting together pictures at some point). Sometimes we take a walk along the beach (within a 3 minute walk from the house) in the mornings. We went to my husband and daughter's favorite beach, Maho. It is placid, sandy and modest snorkeling. My husband and I take turns snorkeling while the other stays with the kid. Well, I love to snorkel but did not expect to see much at Maho. I decided I'd swim around the point to Francis Bay. Well, I never got that far! Near the point, in deeper water around 20 feet or so, a big flash of silver went by. I didn't quite see what it was but it was as big as me, so I thought hhmmhh... all alone out here, nobody else within hundreds of yards... maybe not a good idea. I'm usually intrepid, but it was also late afternoon, so I decided to turn back. Well, I turned and came face to face with an enormous tarpon. I've never seen them this big and this close before. This guy was nearly 5 feet. On my return swim, I saw 5 more of these enormous, kind of scary looking fish all between 5 and 6 feet long! One followed me a little getting close enough to touch. Saw several southern stingrays as well. A few small barracudas, but those tarpon were really impressive. I must have interrupted their feeding. There were many balls of baby fish swimming in the area.
We spent most of our water time this trip in our neighbor's boat. We took the boat to Vie's beach in Hansen Bay and had a glorious lunch on Saturday, enjoying her pristine beach and her delectable garlic chicken, conch fritters and the best spicy rice and beans ever! A couple of cold beers and homemade tarts...! HEAVEN! We also set up a pup tent on the boat for my daughter the princess to nap in while we anchored near Turner Point and snorkeled one of the many underwater canyons around St. John. We also explored one of the offshore islands, Leduck. These places are easily reached by a small boat which you can rent at a place like Crabby's in Coral Bay. We had so much fun snorkeling around Leduck that I plan to return and circum-snorkelate it on the next trip. As much time as I've spent on St. John, I've still only snorkeled a fraction of the possibilities.
A short trip, but I think we packed it with plenty to do and plenty of doing nothing. Can't wait to return in January. Sorry to prattle on, but I know the rest of you St. John afficionados don't mind! Please feel free to ask any questions.
Nov 23rd, 2005, 06:53 AM
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Aaahhh...what a nice report. It's lovely to see you and your husband working around the princess! So many folks put their entire life on hold when they have a baby...how old is she?
"Circumsnorkelate" =D> Great word!
"Circumsnorkelate" =D> Great word!
Nov 23rd, 2005, 07:24 AM
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Hello, thank you for the report. It sounds like you know St. John quite well. We went to St. Thomas/St. John last year, and fell in love with St. John....
Would you suggest a place to stay in St. John? Something that will not make my husband and I poor?
Thanks!
Would you suggest a place to stay in St. John? Something that will not make my husband and I poor?
Thanks!
Nov 23rd, 2005, 07:48 AM
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Christie: Those tarpons were definitely thrilling. I haven't had to catch my breath like that in a while. I forgot to mention I also had fun chasing around a little four foot nurse shark, and was very happy to see the resident eagle ray in Johnson Bay. Johnson Bay is a part of Coral Bay. Coral Bay is actually quite large (the largest natural harbor in the Caribbean) which Hansen Bay and Leduck island is also part of.
Joan: My daughter will be 3 in December. I have to say, she is a trooper. She loves the water (can't swim yet) and was pretty patient. But I think it does help that she is so used to doing almost everything with us that she is pretty amenable. I can't take credit for "circumsnorkelate!" I first read that term while reading the beautiful photography book of St. John put together by Steve Simonsen, who was the first (as far as we know) to circumsnorkelate St. John.
e17345: St. John can be pricey to get to, but it does have a pretty good range of accomodations. If you are not too picky, and if you don't have 3 kids and a grandmother to deal with like Christie, you can stay on St. John for as low as $75. per night for 2. Caribbeandays.com has some good options. It really depends on what you're up for. I prefer condo/villa rentals because it can be quite economical lodgings and food wise. It also depends upon what time of year you want to visit. While we were there this time, the weather was so comfortable at night that you could easily do with just a ceiling fan. Usually during the off-season when it is much warmer, I would recommend having airconditioning at least in the bedroom. When you start to firm up your plans, post a wishlist of requirements and I am sure everyone will have plenty of suggestions.
Joan: My daughter will be 3 in December. I have to say, she is a trooper. She loves the water (can't swim yet) and was pretty patient. But I think it does help that she is so used to doing almost everything with us that she is pretty amenable. I can't take credit for "circumsnorkelate!" I first read that term while reading the beautiful photography book of St. John put together by Steve Simonsen, who was the first (as far as we know) to circumsnorkelate St. John.
e17345: St. John can be pricey to get to, but it does have a pretty good range of accomodations. If you are not too picky, and if you don't have 3 kids and a grandmother to deal with like Christie, you can stay on St. John for as low as $75. per night for 2. Caribbeandays.com has some good options. It really depends on what you're up for. I prefer condo/villa rentals because it can be quite economical lodgings and food wise. It also depends upon what time of year you want to visit. While we were there this time, the weather was so comfortable at night that you could easily do with just a ceiling fan. Usually during the off-season when it is much warmer, I would recommend having airconditioning at least in the bedroom. When you start to firm up your plans, post a wishlist of requirements and I am sure everyone will have plenty of suggestions.
Nov 23rd, 2005, 08:28 AM
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Wow!..an Eagle ray..I have always wanted to see one of them..and a nurser shark.Glad to hear that you had a good trip.I cannot wait to travel again..it might be a while as we are trying to get a new home.
Christie
Christie
Nov 23rd, 2005, 09:42 AM
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Hi Tux! Glad you had such wonderful weather on your short trip to paradise.
Sounds like life is good in STJ, just like I remember...Heavenly.
Cool that you saw such a wealth of marine life in Maho. I always thought that bay was pretty tame. Just shows you there are no bad snorkle spots on STJ!
Sounds like life is good in STJ, just like I remember...Heavenly.
Cool that you saw such a wealth of marine life in Maho. I always thought that bay was pretty tame. Just shows you there are no bad snorkle spots on STJ!
Nov 23rd, 2005, 06:02 PM
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Wow! Sounds great!
What amazes me is that you guys can identify all these fish species – to me, they would be just that, fishes, wonderful, exotic, but I would have no idea what they were.
When we get there, is there a brochure or something we can get to describe (and show pictures, too) of marine life around the island?
How did you get to know what’s what?
What amazes me is that you guys can identify all these fish species – to me, they would be just that, fishes, wonderful, exotic, but I would have no idea what they were.
When we get there, is there a brochure or something we can get to describe (and show pictures, too) of marine life around the island?
How did you get to know what’s what?
Nov 23rd, 2005, 06:43 PM
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tuxedocat, what a wonderful trip report. st. john just moved up a bit on my travel wish list.
snorkeling off monkey point in bvi we were over what looked to be millions of tiny fish all clusted near a shelf. they scattered as we swam through and lurking beneath were dozens of those huge tarpon! i was sure startled. but they were quite peaceful. my favorite to swim with though are the turtles. so graceful...
xyz99 - the Snorkeling Guide to Marine Life (Florida Caribbean Bahamas) by Paul Humann, Ned DeLoach. is a great book with photos of everything you will see. i think if you look through the book frequently before you travel it is easier to recognize what you are seeing. i try to look up any new fish as soon as i get out of the water. watch for fin shape, body shape, color, markings, etc.
snorkeling off monkey point in bvi we were over what looked to be millions of tiny fish all clusted near a shelf. they scattered as we swam through and lurking beneath were dozens of those huge tarpon! i was sure startled. but they were quite peaceful. my favorite to swim with though are the turtles. so graceful...
xyz99 - the Snorkeling Guide to Marine Life (Florida Caribbean Bahamas) by Paul Humann, Ned DeLoach. is a great book with photos of everything you will see. i think if you look through the book frequently before you travel it is easier to recognize what you are seeing. i try to look up any new fish as soon as i get out of the water. watch for fin shape, body shape, color, markings, etc.
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Dec 5th, 2005, 04:51 PM
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Thank you for your report... we're going back for our 4th trip the first week in January and i'm so excited to enjoy our favorite place on earth. i do have to say that I, too, had a run in with a 5 ft tarpon at trunk bay on our 2nd trip. I am a 5'1 ft, 105 pound woman. the thing was as big as me... and boy did I panic! I thought I was looking at a shark! The experience has made me quite leary of "real snoreling." Now I stay close to shore and am happy to see all the "pretty little shiny fish!" Can't wait to get back...4 more weeks and counting!
Dec 6th, 2005, 08:10 AM
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Stjohnbound: I wouldn't worry about those tarpon. They're pretty big and intimidating but they are definitely not aggressive. Even the barracuda are not aggressive, and I've seen 6 feet long barracuda! If you haven't already, I'd suggest snorkeling around Cinnamon Cay, a small island in Cinnamon Bay. It can get pretty deep around the back side, which is what I prefer, but the side facing shore is shallow. If you can, snorkel with someone else, it's a lot less intimidating that way. I'd hate to think you will miss out on "real snorkeling" due to scary but safe tarpon. Also, Francis Bay is a great, semi-shallow snorkel spot. Enjoy! I'm looking forward to your trip report.
Dec 6th, 2005, 07:03 PM
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Glad to hear it. I am headed down New Years day for a couple of weeks, staying with friends. Will take a few days to head to Jost, Tortola and do a bit of sailing... I have been to the Us/B Virgins probably 20 times in the last 17 years either delivering boats or just loafing with friends... St. Thomas is not for me... (Charlotte Amalie = Ghetto with a view, in my opinion) but St. John is heaven... can't wait to relax there again...
The recent "crime wave" is a bit disturbing, but understandable. Obviously born of some very personal issues that have blossomed a bit, but I still feel safer on St. John than St. Croix, St. Thomas, Jamaica and a few others....Just don't be an idiot anywhere you are (including home..) and you will be fine..
Jason
The recent "crime wave" is a bit disturbing, but understandable. Obviously born of some very personal issues that have blossomed a bit, but I still feel safer on St. John than St. Croix, St. Thomas, Jamaica and a few others....Just don't be an idiot anywhere you are (including home..) and you will be fine..
Jason
Dec 6th, 2005, 09:53 PM
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T'cat, thanks for your great trip report!! I prefer cute itty bitty fishies and hope tarpons don't go past Maho around the bend into Francis Bay, where I'll be staying with grandkids who are smaller than that big boy fish you saw!!!
Seriously, thank you!! We can hardly wait to return. I'd count the days, but it'd be too hard to face!
Seriously, thank you!! We can hardly wait to return. I'd count the days, but it'd be too hard to face!
and 8-)
