Reeder

OUR TRIP TO NOVA SCOTIA AUGUST 2007

Despite the on again off again nature in the last minute planning of our trip to Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island—our trip went off without a hitch and I stayed healthy!

We left Connecticut on the morning of August 2nd heading for Portland Maine. This trip was uneventful and was highlighted by a big delicious lobster roll for me at the Hayloft Restaurant in Moody Maine (along Route 1). The roll was 13.99(at lunch) but chock full of big lobster chunks and was simply a treat! When we stopped at the first visitor center in Maine I was surprised to find it was still as muggy as home. Normally the air is Maine is clear and more crisp. Apparently for the most part they have been experiencing hot muggy weather all over Maine this summer. I was told if it was not hot it has been raining.

We had made reservations for every night but the first night of our trip. We didn’t expect to have a problem finding a room in Portland but we did. The first three hotels we tried were booked solid. We were looking hard at the back of our van for the night for awhile there?? We ended up at a Super 8 Motel that night for $100. It was a step up from a dump and there were doors opening and closing all night and traffic in the parking lot. For some reason it would appear that the Portland area is thriving and the hotels can command high prices.

Next morning we were up bright and early in anticipation of our Cat Ferry trip to Yarmouth Nova Scotia. The Ferry departs at 8 AM and we were expected to line up at 7AM. The entire procedure went smoothly. That ferry can hold a lot of cars, buses, vans, motorcycles etc. On our return they announced we had 195 cars on board and 795 passengers and they were not full. Since our van was loaded early we were able to get good seats with great views of the water. Here is what I would recommend: far front right for seating. (I know there are more technical nautical terms for this). The left side front has the gambling machines behind it which would give me a headache. There is other seating where they show children’s movies etc and might be more suitable for families with young children. They have a duty free liquor and a shop for tourist trinkets. I did not check out either one. They have a very busy food station (maybe two). We packed our own picnic lunch each way which I would recommend. It was a rather rough crossing and I would guess over half the boat population got sick. My husband and I had taken Bonine about an hour before sailing so we were fine. However using the bathroom during the first half of the sailing was a challenge with so many sick passengers not to mention rather gross. They also turned down the temp for the air (which apparently helps with the sea sickness) so make sure to carry warm clothing with you from the car in such an event. This trip –round trip- with our Toyota Sienna van cost us as seniors about $700 and included a AAA discount.

The seats on the Cat are more than comfortable and spaced well apart with good leg room etc. We have traveled to Nova Scotia in the past by ferry—37 and 22 years ago respectively. In those days it was an overnight ferry. We would board in the late afternoon, have dinner, sleep in our cabin, wake, have breakfast and then arrive. In all honesty I found that trip to be easier than sitting on the Cat for 6-7 hours. We also would have avoided the night at Super 8!

Arrival in Yarmouth Nova Scotia was smooth and uneventful. We went easily through Customs and set out for Digby Pines Hotel about 100 kilometers away. You must turn your clock ahead one hour when arriving in Nova Scotia.

We honeymooned 37 years ago at the Digby Pines Resort and then came again with our three children 15 years later. The Pines seemed very much the same as back in the day. It is still a very charming relaxed sort of place. Our room had a view of the Bay which was lovely. The food at Digby Pines is also quite good. We found their Seafood Chowder to be the best ever. It is lighter than most in terms of cream but chock full of the best seafood. If you go there you must give this a try. They also had a hot Digby scallop appetizer that is not to be missed. Included in our room rate was a substantial breakfast buffet each morning.

We had planned to stay at Digby Pines for three nights. This was a good decision as we both found ourselves exhausted on arrival. The circumstance of previous weeks and my questionable health had taken its toll. Having three nights here gave us a chance to get back on our feet. This meant lots of naps. It rained on our first morning so John’s golf there was cancelled. When it began to clear we headed out for Brierly Island. By the time we got to the ferry the fog was so thick you could not see three feet in front of you so we gave up and retuned back to Digby. Note here: we did meet several people who had gone whale watching here and had a good number of sightings. In my mind I thought the sightings would be better up in Cape Breton so we passed on whale watching near Digby. I did not research this and based on our later whale watching trip regretted not trying it near Digby.

We stopped at the Digby Visitors Center for some information and we picked up a restaurant coupon for lunches at The Captain’s Table, Digby. It is a cute little restaurant—good food, large portions and reasonable. I had my second favorite lobster roll here (8.99) and John had Digby fried scallops. We noticed that they add diced tomatoes to their potato salad here. Also on the menu is poutine—french fries with cheese and gravy. Poutine was on almost every menu we would see on this trip. We did not try it though.

We had dinner at the Pines again tonight. We find the people to be very friendly everywhere we go. There were people of all ages here—family reunions, bus groups, etc. On the second day John was able to play golf at the Pines in the early morning and he loved it. The course was as good as he remembered it with great views. When he returned we took off for Annapolis—a very cute town. We stopped at a visitors center that was at the site of a power plant. There was an informational movie there-interesting. We then had lunch at what was called the smallest pub in Nova Scotia. I ordered a hamburger –medium rare –only to find out is is the law in NS that burgers must be cooked well done. There is also a re-enactment there which we did not investigate. It is supposed to be quite interesting. However over the years while raising our kids we would never miss anything educational and I would tutor them in the car before arriving? I was like Rose Kennedy driving her kids to Cape Cod each week making everything a “learning” experience? Those days are over so we pretty much avoid places like that these days. We want to learn “different” things these days!

Now it is August 6th and where have the first four days gone to? We are rested up now and ready to explore. We are so glad we set aside three nights for Digby as we rejuvenated ourselves.

We are heading for a B&B in Pictou tonight as a stopover enroute to Cape Breton Island. I haven’t mentioned this previously but gasoline is a real trip here. We saw it for as much as 1.08 per liter and the lowest was 1.00 per liter. As bad as our gas prices are they seemed cheap by comparison. You just have to put the gas prices out of your mind on a trip like this one. The other thing I should mention are the taxes on EVERYTHING is 14 %. It just adds a chunk onto anything you purchase, etc etc. At one time until April of this year you could get your taxes back on any purchase over $50 but no more. It was sort of like France’s VAT tax.

We heard time and again on the trip that American tourism is down this year. The gas prices and tax sure don’t help as well as the sluggish dollar.

Enroute to Pictou we stopped in Wolfville—another picturesque town. We stopped at the Visitors Center—where there is always a clean bathroom available. We also stopped at Domaine Gran Pre winery which was interesting. Their Ice Wine (like a Port) was the 2006 Canadian Blue Ribbon Winner.

We left the highway and cut across Rte 14. We are hinterland here and we saw cows, farms and more farms. Were we to do it again we would have stuck to the highway.

Pictou is another lovely town and it just felt warm and friendly from the getgo. We stopped at the Visitor Center for info. We picked up a coupon for 20% off knife purchase from the knife factory there. They offer a tour of the factory and my husband was quite interested in doing that. They need four people for a tour so I asked some people milling in the store and found an agreeable mother and daughter. They were collectors of these knives and had always meant to take the tour. The knives were just beautiful. On the tour I saw some steak knives that were very nice. I think to myself—“I need some steak knives” and then think I could pick up a set for each of my kids” When we got back to the shop I found out that the knives I liked cost $85 each and did some rethinking. I will be buying my knives in the good old US I think without that dreaded 14% tax to boot.

We had a delicious lunch at McIntyre’s Tea Room. I had chicken salad on delicious homemade bread. My husband had a half chicken salad sandwich and cup of Scottish broth. It was a beef based soup with beans and he enjoyed it. There is a strong Scottish influence here and the shops and restaurants reflect it.

We then toured their lobster museum for a small fee. What was most interesting to us was the lobster hatchery. The lobster population in Pictou has been down dramatically and they are looking for ways to help it along. It is amazing to see what the eggs look like when hatched (like fleas) and how in a few short weeks they resemble miniscule lobsters. They said when they bring the eggs to their habitat say 6000 of them they think only 3% will survive. There does appear to be some controversy between the lobstermen and those that scallop. I guess they rake the bottom to get the scallops and the lobstermen feel they are endangering the natural habitat of the lobsters. If you do get to Pictou (and make the effort) do not miss the lobster hatchery.

More later—our great B&B find in Pictou, a special dinner out and on to Cape Breton Island. h

LJ

Thanks for following up with a trip report! I am glad to hear you remain healthy and particularly glad to find a fellow fan of Moody's Diner. My family loves the place and we have their cookbook.

I share your reservations about the CAT-it is an expensive way to lose your lunch and we are fans of the drive around whe we have the luxury of time(Bangor-Calais-St. Andrews-Saint Johns et al).

Poutine is an acquired taste and one you can live without if you have cholesterol challenges: it is, however, also, delicious!

In case you are a cook and looking to make that soup you liked so much, you will find it in many cook books under the name Scotch broth (It breaks all the language rules)-I am of Scottish ancestry and make it frequently.

Look forward to more of your report and am so happy you enjoyed our adopted home.

JudyC

Thank you for sharing the report, looking forward to the rest.

Reeder

Part Two
Based on my research on Pictou we chose a B&B that had great recs on tripadvisor.com and they were right on. There were several that had high praise including the Customs House etc but we decided to go with The Evening Sail B&B primarily based on the warm reception others had experienced. We were greeted warmly by the Mom of this Mom and Daughter operation. Our room was well decorated and spacious with its own private deck.(which we enjoyed). Our room was called Seashell and had a king sized bed. They advertise they have the comfiest beds and I am here to attest to that fact. Both owners are very creative which is evident in the decorating and all the little extra touches. They recommended a restaurant that was perfect for us and we enjoyed our evening there immensely. It was called Pipers Landing and the owner is an Austrian chef. We were asked on arrival if we were celebrating anything special. As it turns out 37 years ago we came to Nova Scotia (Digby Pines) for our honeymoon. Soon the chef himself came out and took our picture. Later he came back again with an 8 by 10 color photo of us in an envelope. It was to be the only photo of the two of us on this trip and we were both touched. Our service could not have been better nor our table right at the window overlooking the water. I had the pork schnitzel(the best schnitzel I ever had!) that came with delicious vegetables of butternut squash and carrots.. My husband had one of the specials that night—shrimp and scallops in white sauce over linguini with broccoli and cherry tomatoes. Both meals were terrific and reasonably priced. The bread basket had a variety of breads including a first for us—Scottish Oat bisquits. We were too full to try the highly recommended desserts. Instead they sent us away with a package of homemade candies-chocolate covered toffee-- that were delicious. It was a warm friendly place we both would highly recommend.

Now back to our “comfy, comfy bed” and one of the best nights sleep for both of us in a long time. I should note here the towels were big and fluffy and plentiful. They are clearly in business to succeed and the comfort of their guests is their number one priority. While not an initial great impression from the outside this place has all the touches and is a gem inside.

While we were waiting for breakfast at 8:30 am we took advantage of their computer and caught up on emails and correspondence with the kids. Breakfast was yet another treat. Candles were lit on the huge table beautifully set with fresh flowers about. They had a full house that day so the overflow sat nearby at a smaller table. Coffee and juice were self serve and on the table were fresh blueberry muffins, jams, granola and yogurts. The main course was Eggs Benedict with a beautiful fruit cup.. Everyone seemed to be most comfortable there and it was a jovial group for sure. We shared our travel experiences and just chatted away. Each guest was offered a muffin in a baggie “for the road.” In case I haven’t communicated this we are very big fans of this B&B—The Evening Sail Bed and Breakfast, Pictou.

Now we eagerly set off for Cape Breton Island! We hit torrential rains on the drive and it was not a pleasant ride. As we approached Cape Breton it seemed to clear a bit and we were anxious to get to Ingonish. It was about lunchtime when we arrived in Baddeck. Baddeck was about what I expected –busy! It reminded me of Hyannis on Cape Cod back in the 50’s. It is a touristy town and not exactly our cup of tea. I should mention here that when we were in Ingonish my husband met another couple who were staying at the same place we were. They had just come from Baddeck which the wife said she loved because she could walk from her hotel to restaurants and shops. Clearly this was not the case in Ingonish which was just fine with us. So everything is just a matter of taste. Our one “bad meal” of the trip was in Baddeck at the Baddeck Lobster Supper place in town. Our first clue should have been that we were the only customers at lunchtime but we stayed. I had the lobster roll that came with cole slaw and maybe potato salad. Both of the sides were dreadful and didn’t taste fresh to me. My lobster roll was just okay—actually less than okay. My husband had the seafood chowder and hot mussels. The mussels were fine but the chowder he felt was lacking-lacking in seafood! Neither of us would recommend this place at all. We can’t win all the time I guess! Now on to Ingonish—our home for three wonderful nights! h

jaspertl

thanks so much for posting your great report....am most interested in your thoughts on ingonish.

we will be there next month staying at the lantern hill and hollow.

Reeder

Expect my next installment tomorrow guys!--if all goes well. It is in the works and my favorite segment of our trip!H

wow

Thx for the great report! Looking fwd to hearing about Ingonish...my favorite place!!

Reeder

Part Three
We drove on for quite awhile stopping at some sort of Celtic School with a bagpiper outfront. There was a gift shop we browsed thorough but did not buy anything. So far the only purchases I made were at the Knife Factory in Pictou and they were four fancy lobster crackers –two for each of our kids. We were enjoying hugging the coast a bit and seeing the sights. As we were winding along on the coast we could see Ingonish ahead! As we approached Ingonish we first came to the Keltic Lodge. My husband was anxious to play at their Highlands course and set up a tee time. We arrived there around 2 pm. He set one for the next day but then thought with my encouragement to maybe play this afternoon since it was clear and the weather can be iffy up here. So play he did with a couple of other walk ons—nice guys he said. The course fees were 100.25 or $72 after 2:30 or $60 after 4 or 4:30. The course which is spectacular takes a good five hours to play.

I took off to check out the rest of the Keltic Lodge which seemed nice but maybe not for us. All they had to offer us at the last minute was a room in one of their cottages. Each cottage has two bedrooms with a shared common room. None of the cottages had water views and to be honest looked pretty ordinary. Through my research I found the Seascape Coastal Retreat in Ingonish. Five years ago they built ten one bedroom cottages on the water. They each have great water views, are comfortably furnished and quite cute. They each have very comfy queen bed, a little fireplace, Jacuzzi tub, refrigerator, microwave etc and are very nice for a couple—young or old. While they take the occasional child the place was not designed for children. They have covered decks with chairs. A nice full breakfast is served each morning (included) in their very nice restaurant also overlooking the water. The owner/chef (French trained) makes a nice hot seafood hors d’s which are delivered to the cottage each afternoon. I checked in by myself and was very pleased. Now this was my cup of tea!

Ingonish is exactly how I pictured it and it was definitely more our speed than Baddeck would have been. It is not developed and doesn’t give off that “tourist” atmosphere. It is very pretty. I did a bit of exploring checked out the little Fresh Mart—and bought some hors doeuvrey kinds of things. I had hoped they might have something more fancy like a seafood dip but not so. If you go and plan to stay for a couple of days I would suggest you think ahead and do your shopping in Baddeck or outside Cape Breton. We have found a couple of big Sobey’s Grocery stores in our travels on Nova Scotia.

They had one in Digby for example and it reminded me of our Super Stop and Shops in New England—just very nice groceries with good produce, fish etc and fair prices.

I checked out a couple of restaurants in Ingonish while John played golf that day. They were restaurants with typical diner type food—lots of burgers and fries etc.. The only “fine dining” around would either be at the Keltic Lodge or our own Seascape Coastal Retreat restaurant. People had recommended we try a meal at the Keltic Lodge but we never got there. While we were staying for three nights in Ingonish it did not seem like enough time for me to do everything we wanted. Five days would have been better I think.

By the time John finished golf we had had a long day so we chose to stay in, have some snacks and wine—enjoy our view and hit the hay early. The bed here is above average again and we slept like babies. The next morning the sun appeared and we were up bright and early to hit the Cabot Trail. We had been advised here and other places to take advantage of a sunny day to do the trail as so many days are fogged in and rainy.

It was a glorious day and we set out for Cheticamp—counterclockwise. That was our plan to come and go the same way to Cheticamp. Not too far into trip a big black bear crossed the road in front of our car! Wow!! He turned around and looked at the car as we stopped. In the craziness of getting the camera ready he disappeared into the woods. He didn’t stick around to pose. We were so thrilled with that sighting that we could not believe our eyes when a few miles further on a mother moose and her baby crossed the road right in front of our car. Then the baby moose seemed to get somewhat discombobulated and ran back out in the road looking for its mother. It again crossed the road in front of us and tried to put the brakes on. In so doing its legs went out from under him and he sort of skidded across the road and back in and out of the woods on the other side of the road. It was a real life “moose show!” We were just too mesmerized to even pick up the camera but we will always remember our show. There were just two cars around for this show—one coming and one going-and as we departed we smiled at each other knowing we had been lucky to be at the spot at that time. I hope the moose family reunited and think the Mom went back to find her discombobulated offspring!

There are so many beautiful stops and sights on this drive that words cannot do them justice. We did detour up to Cape North and towards Meat Camp until the dirt road started. We chatted with people from all over at the many stops—pinching ourselves with the awesome views. One couple told my husband about the Skyline Drive hike so he wanted to try it. My bad knee did not permit me to join him. At first I set out alone enroute to Cheticamp while he hiked but the views from Skyline to Cheticamp were so breathtaking I decided to return to Skyline and wait for my husband so we could share the sights together. There were literally a ton of people taking this hike and the parking area was jammed. He took about 2 hours to do the hike and he said he went at a good clip so with a family I think it might be more like three hours. I was very comfortable in the car with the windows open and a good book. People coming or going would stop and chat so it was most pleasant.

When he got back we took that drive into Cheticamp and thought it was amazing. We tried to have lunch in Cheticamp at some restaurant on the water but ended up leaving. While waiting for my husband I thoughtlessly had some peanut butter crackers. You see for some reason in recent years I am allergic to peanuts and thus peanut butter?? As we sat down in the restaurant I suddenly felt nauseous and rushed to the bathroom. When I got to the bathroom and started to think why I was nauseous when it suddenly hit me that I had stupidly had peanut butter!? What was I thinking? So we had to leave the restaurant and began our trek back to Ingonish. The first half hour of this ride back was a little testy without going into detail and then my stomach calmed down and I was fine. Of course all the meds I brought with me—Alka Seltzer etc were back at the cottage. So the moral of the story is to take a medical bag with you when you hit the Trail—just in case. We had no more sighting on our return but were very happy with the earlier ones. Many people can do the entire trail with no sightings. One thing my husband did note that on his hike he didn’t hear birds the way we are used to hearing in abundance in the woods near our home. Could it be the eagle population up there? He noticed it particularly when we drove into Lake Paquette way in the woods and it was quiet.

I also wanted to check out the little town of Neil’s Harbor—about 15 minutes north of Ingonish. And what a charming place that was!-with its own lighthouse and right on the water. I don’t know what they have for accommodations there but it would be a darling place to stay in perhaps a cabin or cottage for a while. The town has its own coop that is like a huge grocery in comparison to the Fresh Mart in Ingonish. W e bought the fixings for nice sandwiches etc and planned to have another quiet evening with our view and picture window. We had a very full day (with a bit of drama thrown in) and we were happily tired.

Now we are into Day Three of our Ingonish stay. After breakfast our plan is to take the Whale watching trip out of Ingonish—on the Zodiac. I have been on whale watching trips before on Cape Cod and Gloucester but I was not prepared for this one. First of all they had us put on like full bodied astronaut suits to keep us dry. It turns out the boat was not at all what I expected—not a staid big fishing boat but a small 12 seater rubberized speed boat!! Hello??? The guide drove like a maniac and the boat hit every wave with a significant bang. I have a cracked rib so the two hours on this boat was like some kind of Chinese torture for me! Most of the people seemed to relish the wild ride. I held on to a bar and my husband for dear life as I felt as though I could fall out of this boat at any minute. And the kicker here is that we saw not a whale—nothing!! I had been told at our cottage that the Zodiac guaranteed sighting or money back but this was not the case. Ninety dollars for sheer pain for me! They do have a sister company—Fiddlers—over on Pleasant Bay and they do guarantee that ride. There is probably a good reason for the difference so I would not suggest wasting your money on whale watching in Ingonish but fit that into your day on your trip around Cabot Trail at Pleasant Bay.

The weather on this day turned quite stormy and rainy. We drove over to Neil’s Harbor to a restaurant we had noticed there yesterday—the Chowder House. It is located by the lighthouse and even in the rain is a picturesque setting. The place reminded me of some of the Clam Shacks on Cape Cod. You order at the counter and they call your number. They have a bunch of picnic tables set up inside and it must be nice to sit outside on a clear day and enjoy your food. The place was busy—crazy busy—and the food (mostly seafood) was good and fairly reasonable. I had the fried Digby clams that were okay but not recommended. (I am an authority on good fried clams) These tasted fresh for sure but were a bit overcooked and a skimpy portion. My husband had the seafood chowder and English style fish and chips that he enjoyed. All the other portions I saw others carrying seemed substantial. When I ordered the clams they said they only had one order left and I guess it was a skimpy order. My bad. It was a fun type place that is great for kids and very relaxed. I met an older couple having lunch there who had done the Zodiac whale watch the day before—found it as horrendous as I did and said they had not a sighting either???

We then went to the gift shop directly across from Seascape Coastal. It is a cool shop and I bought a couple of pewter Christmas ornaments there for the kids. The owner’s husband is a talented artist and his works are sold here. Great copies of his work was also on sale at the Chowder House in Neil’s Harbor. We went back to our cottage in the late afternoon having had another busy day. It was raining buckets and there was a chill in the air so we put on our little fireplace to warm things up. It felt good and homey and we just loved our view. Our plan was to have dinner at our place-the Seascape Coastal Retreat restaurant. We had heard from others that the food was quite good and in the end regretted not eating there our first two nights. My meal was the absolute standout for me of our entire trip filled with good meals. I ordered the seafood crepe. The plate looked like a masterpiece. The crepe was used and absolutely filled with the best seafood ever including large pieces of lobster. It was not heavy but light and delicious. It came with a twice stuffed potatoe and a beautifully presented vegetable of butternut squash and turnip with fried leeks on top. My husband order some spicy shrimp that looked beautiful. He liked his meal but ending up eating half of my meal and said that was his favorite.

One more night in Ingonish which we sadly have to say goodbye to and then more of our adventures. H

wow

Hi, Reeder! I am really enjoying reading about your travels. Are you still in Ingonish? Happy to hear that John had a chance to play The Highlands. What a spectacular golf course!
The Seascape Caostal Retreat sounds lovely. Where is it located? is it near Keltic Lodge?( I agree w/ you that the cottages @ Keltic are nothing special. Ditto for Keltic's "The Inn" located down the Hill. But, staying is The Main Lodge is very nice if you have a room overlooking the water. And, I really like having dinner & breakfast in The Main Lodge dining room @ Keltic).
Looking forward to your next installment!

Reeder

No we left lovely Ingonish on the 11th of August. As you travel through Ingonish on the main road Seascape Coastal Retreat is on the right hand side just before the harbor and Zodiac Whale Watching. I don't know why I can't remember but the gift shop perhaps called Linda's is directly across the street. I should finish up with our last night and morning in Ingonish, a night in St Peter's and our last night near Mahone Bay in Chester Basin,our Cat ferry back and our final night in Portland Maine H

Reeder

Part Four
We enjoyed another great night’s sleep and packed up. I did wish we had more time for this trip and could have stayed on for a couple more days in Ingonish. John could have played the Highlands again and I could have been so content just enjoying my surroundings and staring out to sea. It always renews my soul somehow.

We enjoyed our final breakfast. John loved the omelets each morning and I really liked the cold breakfast. You could have hot cereal but I had the muesli. I never asked but it tasted homemade and was delicious—accompanied by juice, coffee, fresh fruit cup and two slices of toast. I think I might have mentioned this earlier but they only serve breakfast to their cottage guests. They do have a fine operation there and they don’t seem to be looking to be busy but instead offer quality and fine dining to the lucky few who find them for dinner or lodging. I did have one criticism and that was no decaf coffee there. Actually they did have it but it was instant. I think they could figure out some way to get small pot packets. Apparently they do not have much call for decaf.

Regarding the cottages that I have described earlier: there are ten of them all appear to be exactly alike including furnishings. They are relatively new and all in great shape. Most of the cottages go for $229 per night except for maybe numbers 8,9 and 10. They are at the end with direct views out to the ocean as opposed to the bay and they would offer more privacy perhaps. They go for $249 per night. We were in Number 3 and I found it quiet and private. To go back to the Nova Scotia taxes we paid $96. for our stay in Ingonish. I should mention that we could clearly see the Keltic Lodge on the other side of the bay. We do recommend this place highly and left with very fond memories of our stay here.

So once again we hit the road and are really on the down side of our Nova Scotia adventure. We are now heading to St. Peters to stay at the Bras D’or Inn. We went over on the Elizabethtown Ferry ($5) for a short cut. It was a pretty enough ride but seemed faded after the Cabot Trail if you know what I mean. I just kept marveling at how many homes here are waterfront. I hope they appreciate how lucky they are. In my next life I plan to have a waterfront home.

I don’t want to give a bad report on the Bras D’or Inn because in many ways it was very good but I was disappointed. It is a well kept casual facility and the people greeted us kindly. It was just more rustic than I expected and I found the room rather dark. This was just a decorating error as they chose dark green paint with the other already dark paneled walls. Light colored paint would make a world of difference. Our room had a King bed and was a good size. One odd thing was an inventory in each room of everything in the room in the information pamphlet including wastebaskets etc. The owner was a former longtime schoolteacher and maybe this is the reason. I just had never seen anything like it before. The place gets lots of stars in the Doers and Dreamers that actually I learned is more related to what the Inn offers ie tv, computer,two bedside tables etc. rather than the overall atmosphere. Our room had a very minimal view of the water. Doers and Dreamers gave it 4.5 stars and in American standards it would be a weak three. The room cost $130 and breakfast was not included. In my defense this was one of my last minute reservations and I didn’t put enough time or investigation into it.

My husband was playing the Dundee Golf Course in the afternoon. The resort there was totally booked or we would have opted to stay there. I drove him and it was a long 30 minute drive there. He thought the course was beautiful with all the sweeping views of the lake etc but he complained about the tees that he did not think were in great condition. There is also a lot of construction going on there. He couple he played with were staying there and complained about the cost of food there. The cost of golf in the afternoon was $82 with cart.

I came back to the Inn after dropping him off and decided to treat myself to lunch there. The owner is a French trained chef I believe so it seemed a good choice. We also planned to have dinner there this evening. I had the lobster roll that came with a side of potato salad. Of my four lobster rolls on this trip this one ranked number three. The lobster was more shredded and not in chunks as I would have hoped. I then used the computer in the lobby to email the kids and read a bit outside. When it was time to pick John up I took a side trip to a Christmas Shop there in St. Peters. I can’t quite remember its name but it is worth a visit. I bought myself a Bee ornament for our tree. I collect all things Bee.

Dinner was in the adjoining dining room from where I had lunch. We had been hyped about the French chef and what to expect. There were all sorts of articles around from newspapers regaling the French chef in St Peters revolutionizing its culinary world. Too much hype perhaps. My husband had the salmon oscar which he enjoyed. I decided on two appetizers instead of an entrée. I ordered the French onion soup with apple brandy and the seafood crepes. At 7.95 the soup was a big disappointment for me. It literally had no taste and the seafood crepes were not much better. While checking in- the owner (the school teacher) really was pushing us to go to the entertainment they were having that evening in the lower level. It was the sister of some fiddler that was very famous but meant nothing to me. We had no intention of going but I seriously worried about the noise level we were going to experience. We had a great night’s sleep and heard not a sound. The bed was surprisingly comfortable as well.

Bright and early the next morning we gave Tim Horton’s a try for breakfast. Tim Hortons are located all over Nova Scotia and would be the equivalent of our Dunkin Donuts. We are heading today (our last night) to Chester Basin—just this side of Mahone Bay. This was another last minute reservation. I had initially tried for Lunenburg but they were booked up tight with a Folk Festival that weekend. Next I tried Mahone Bay but apparently the overflow from Lunenburg had filled all their rooms. Through a recommendation from one of the B&B owners we found a room at the Sword and Anchor B&B.

We had decided not to go into Halifax at all on this trip. We are just not city people. We did try to take a peek at Peggy’s Cove but there was a tremendous backup of traffic (on a Saturday morning) so we turned around. It might have been a parade that backed up the traffic as there were other parades going on that weekend. We headed into Chester-the town and stopped for lunch at the Duke St. Restaurant. My husband tried the Donash that is a specialty fast type food of Halifax area. I looked it up when I came home. When we asked the waitress what it was she kept saying “Well Donash is like um donash!” My husband liked it but I didn’t even try after I heard it was spicy. We got directions to the Chester Golf Course. It was a charming course again right on the water. It reminded me of a golf course on Martha’s Vineyard or Nantucket. My boy got that excited look on his face and he signed up to do 18 holes right away.

I was on my own again and I went in search of our night’s lodging. It was on the main drag and I found it easily. Again from the outside its appearance made me a bit nervous but the inside was just fine. Our room was a good size, very very plain but clean as a whistle. They had a lovely large dining room and a comfortable television room. There were lots of decking, porch and seating to look over the water across the street.

I took off to do some exploring heading towards Mahone Bay. Once again I hit a backup of traffic only to learn that it was a parade. I eventually got to Mahone Bay which is just a darling town. As you enter the town the sign says ”We love the beauty around us and we welcome you to share it.” Isn’t that nice? I continued on in the direction of Lunenburg but I can tell you ahead of time I prefer Mahone Bay. I drove around Lunenburg and stopped at the Visitors Center. That town was packed. They had a campground at the end of time and people were camping on top of one another. I imagine they have a lot of cool shops but I did not even check out one. On my return I did check out a Bird Shop in Mahone Bay.

I went back to the B&B and read for quite a while until it was time to pick up my boy wonder. He thought the Chester Golf Course was absolutely beautiful and he played with a few native Nova Scotians who were lots of fun.

For dinner we just walked across the street to the Sea Shanty. It is a small place right on the water and it is very busy on a Saturday night. They do not take reservations either. I had stopped by earlier to get a feel for a dinner time. It seemed that they are crazy busy from 6 to almost 8 and then it slows down. So we sat on the porch with some wine and waited until the crowds abated. We were seated right away on the porch overlooking the water. The food was good, reasonable and abundant. We shared a double order of the Drunken mussels, I had a bowl of corn chowder and Jon had the seafood chowder. It was plenty of food for us—so convenient and just plain good. We had another comfortable night’s sleep. Breakfast was well done and plentiful. She had a full house that night so it was a jovial group at breakfast. She had huge muffins, croissants, two juices, cereals, fresh fruit salad, and coffee –self serve. Then she served bacon, eggs and toast. Yogurts and jams were on the table. So it turned out just fine after all! Our room was $100. per night.

Today we are heading to Yarmouth to board the Cat Ferry this afternoon, spend a night in Portland and then head home. The end of my long tale is coming soon. H

wow

Thanks, again Reeder! I am enjoying Nova Scotia vicariously!

Reeder

you are most welcome WOW! When one puts some time into writing a review it is so nice to hear it is appreciated. I like to get these projects done so hope to put finishing touches on it tomorrow with an overall review. H

smcgown

Reeder, thank you so much for your wonderful report! I am so glad that you were able to go and that everything worked out so well for you. My husband & I will be doing a similar trip 2nd week of Sept and your review was perfect for us! We Will fly to halifax, Pictou overnight then head for the Cabot Trail probably staying somewhere near Cheticamp . I think based on what you have said we will try for 2 nights at Seascape Coastal Retreat & head back to halifax from there, not staying anywhere in between. I would love to email you directly if possible [email protected]. I have printed your review and will take it with me as the restaurant ideas and so good. I suspect we are similar age and likes & dislikes. How long a drive is it from Ingonish to Halifax not counting any stops? We are booked in Halifax for 2 nights, primarily so we can see the Bluenose ll and the Maritime Museum. Thanks so much
By the way, you might consider the west coast of Vancouver Island for your next big trip, Pacific Sands is our favorite in Tofino. Just FYI!!!!THanks again, Sue

irecommend

This is the best trip report I have ever read on here!

Reeder

Part Five--the final installment
Today we are heading to Yarmouth to board the Cat Ferry this afternoon, spend a night in Portland and then head home! I want to add here that the town of Chester itself where John played golf is a very cute town all around. There seemed to be some cute shops and a couple of little places for a nice lunch. Chester Basin where our B&B was turned out less so.

I am running out of my notes here so this report should be brief if you all can believe I can do brief. We headed out back through Mahone Bay and Lunenburg since John had not been there. He agreed with me and liked the looks of Mahone Bay a lot. Lunenburg was pretty busy on a Sunday morning and we basically drove through.. Then we joined the Lighthouse Trail and took that route for quite a while. There were a couple of beach towns that had enormous beach houses like we had not seen in Nova Scotia before. One town might have been called Kingburg?? There were many pretty sights along this way. There was a ferry we should have taken along this route that would have saved us a few miles and would have been fun to take. Eventually we rejoined the highway into Yarmouth. We stopped at a Sobey’s once there for makings of a picnic for the ferry. While there we asked for restaurant recommendations and one couple suggested the Austrian House in Yarmouth—on the Digby side. They were serving a big brunch buffet when we arrived which was quite reasonable at 12,95 each so we gave it a try. It was good—not great but we filled up. So much so that we did not need our picnic when on the ferry.

Once done there we lined up for the ferry that left at 4 pm. This was uneventful. We did once again get seats in the front right but not as good seats as our last trip. First come first seated and you never know when lining up which lanes go on first etc. The seats were fine and we were comfortable. This ferry trip was much smoother than the first one and I was unaware of anyone getting sick at all. One thing I noted was how much and often people eat on this six hour trip!? For some it was non stop the entire time and must have cost a fortune. A picnic lunch would be a must if I were traveling with a family—a very big picnic lunch.

When we landed in Portland everyone is tired and anxious to get going. Customs was a rather slow process. We sadly ended up in a lane that was squishing three lanes into one—rather frustrating. We had reservations for this night through Priceline for $65. at an ESA suite hotel in nearby Scarborough. It was basic but very clean and even had a kitchenette. It was a long day for us and we crashed pretty quickly. We did a quick Dunkin Donuts stop for breakfast and headed home. It always feels so good to be home and find everything safe and sound—to rev up that washing machine and dryer, check the plants to see what has survived and the fridge to find out what died while you were gone. All was in order.

In summary we had just a great trip. We did a lot of driving doing just about the entire perimeter during our stay. It was great to go back to Digby Pines—where we started our marriage. We dig each other more today that back then and enjoy thoroughly each other’s company. It was a reaffirmation to each of us how blessed we are.

We loved the beauty of Nova Scotia and the friendly nature of the people.
We might never get back up there but we will always remember this special trip.

Things I would change? I wish we tried whale watching in the Digby area or squeezed into our day on the Cabot Trail. We go to Cape Cod for two weeks each September (where we met) and next month we will get a whale watching trip in while there for sure. I would like to have had a couple more days in Ingonish to just relax and enjoy it. John I think would like to have played the Highlands course again at Keltic and I know he also would have liked to play the highly acclaimed Bay Bell course (is it?) in Baddeck but time did not permit. Perhaps we could have skipped St Peter’s and stayed closer to Baddeck for that. Overall it was a great trip and experience. I hope that maybe a few people have been helped by this report in planning their next trip to Nova Scotia. Helen

LJ

Helen-my husband and I know the areas on the South Shore (Chester, Chester, Basin, Mahone Bay and Lunenburg) that you speak of very well and I think you have been fair and very helpful in your notes. Many thanks: if you return, post here and I can supply additional info...

A couple of notes; I believe the special Nova Scotia dish you ordered was a "donair"...definitely an acquired taste. Also, I think the fiddler you missed was Ashley MacIsaacs's sister and that is actually a shame as the entire family is brilliant. But it sounds as if you had a grand time and that is the point!

maple23

Thanks Reeder for a fascinating insight on your trip to Nova Scotia. I am heading there in 3 weeks and I will use your reports as a guide for things to see and do. When do you sign up for employment reporting for Fodor's

I am really looking forward to my trip, it can't come quick enough.

Thanks again

LJ

Just another note for those that are likely to visit and get to a ceilidh, the missing fiddler is, I believe, Lisa MacIsaac (Ashley MacIsaac's sister). She is VERY talented in her own right and well worth catching for those who are inspired by Reeder.

Reeder

Thank you all for your kind words. I told my husband at lunch I wanted to finish my report and "get it off my back". He said "You put that monkey on your own back!" and this is very true. We all get such help here in planning our trip it seems only fair to share when we get back! H