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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 09:19 AM
  #41  
 
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Annetti - Are you going to rent a car at all when you are in Vancouver? I have some favourite spots but they aren't too accessible by bus. I can't remember when we chatted about your Victoria visit if you were going to have a car to go up Island or not.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 02:19 PM
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I am really enjoying your report. My dad was born (1906) and raised in Vancouver. I haven't been there in a few years but we love a little French Bistro called the Cafe de Paris, on Denman, between Robson and Georgia, near the entrance to Stanley Park.
If you like books, Lawrance books is a used book store that is a labyrinth of treasure. It is at 41st and Dunbar, or at least it was a few years ago.
Enjoy your stay.
Mandy, from Saskatoon
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:31 PM
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Carmanah: We took your advice and went to Commercial Avenue today, "certainly a bit off the beaten track, I imagine for the three day visitor to Vancouver." This line is delivered with only a small bit of smugness!

We were intrigued by the Commercial Avenue website's declaration (that you thoughtfully provided us) that there were no chain restaurants, all shops and eateries being independent. I hope people don't mind me describing areas using so many comparisons to places I know best and not working out original ways to describe an area, but Commercial Avenue felt like a throwback (and this is said as a compliment) to Telegraph Avenue in Berkley. We enjoyed it very much and wandered into a number of cafes, not really sure where to spend our money for lunch. We finally settled on The Desert and had the chef's special (a vegetarian Indian meal for $6.00) which we split along with a peach shake. It was a ton of food and filled us both up.

There are many consignment stores, a few shops to tempt the gentry, and a lot of shops that would have happily catered to the counter cultural in the late 60s and early 70s anywhere in North America. We wandered up a few streets where some homes are beautifully restored, but others need a lot of hard work, however the trees and gardens as everywhere in Vancouver make it easy to ignore the run- down buildings.
On the way home, we stopped in Kits again for a coffee break. My husband has found yet another place for coffee he likes. To the non-Vancouverite, coffee places are infinite in this town. The bus stopped conveniently in front of his current favorite. We then walked over to a fish store, bought some sockeye salmon for sandwiches for dinner. The clerk very kindly told us how to cook it, so we would not ruin it, and it turned out well, the fish receiving a compliment from my husband, who normally dislikes salmon and is not particularly fond of fish, that if fish tasted this good in California, he would not mind eating it! That is indeed high praise from him.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:34 PM
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I haven't read all the posts so pardon me if I'm repeating someone, but we loved the restaurant called Havana or Cafe Havana on Commercial.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:39 PM
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Hi Mandy: Thank you for the compliment. I am enjoying writing this, so I am pleased someone out there is enjoying reading it.

We have waited for the bus in front of Lawrence's Bookstore quite a few times, but they open late in the day. I can't remember when, but I know we are always too early to go in and browse. We will make the effort now to explore it. Yes, I do like used books.
Thank you, too, for the restaurant recommendation,too.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:49 PM
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Traveller69: We were not planning on renting a car; but I suppose I might be convinced for a few days, though I am not sure my husband would be so willing. We are really enjoying NOT driving. I am not sure everyone can quite understand our enthusiasm for public transport, but it feels so liberating for this pair of Southern Californians, not to be sitting behind a wheel in heavy traffic inching our way in a parking lot (sometimes, called a freeway) and not having to concentrate on the road or wonder if there will be a gridlock up ahead. My husband and I were just commenting for the upteenth time today, how nice it was not to arrive somewhere and have to think about parking or getting lost! Anyway,Traveller69 what were you thinking that might motivate us to drive!?! The last sentence was written with a smile. Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

Annetti
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Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 07:58 PM
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Goddesstogo: No one has mentioned Havana on Commercial. We saw it today; it was very crowded , but we were not quite ready for lunch, besides there was too much grafitti on the walls -- it reminded us too much of home. Just kidding of course, we knew the grafitti was part of the decor. Later, we came across a restaurant review for it that was very complimentary. Unfortunately both your suggestion and the review came after our visit to Commercial Avenue, but perhaps someone else will be helped out. Thank you for your suggestion.
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Old Jul 4th, 2008, 09:33 AM
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To be honest, my last few visits to Havana never impressed me. I felt that it's more about the decor and patio than service or food, in my own opinion. What I do enjoy is Stella's, which is kitty corner to Havana, but I go there because they have Bellevue Kriek, Gulden Draak, and other assortment of Belgian beers.

annetti - Commercial Drive aka "The Drive" really comes alive in the evening when a lot of those restaurants and cafes host live music.

Great to see you exploring the city!
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Old Jul 4th, 2008, 01:10 PM
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I am really enjoying reading your trip report. It's been quite awhile since I've been to Vancouver, and I never had the kind of time you have, so I guess I feel like I'm getting to "know" the city much better!
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Old Jul 4th, 2008, 02:20 PM
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Carmannah:

I just read your post about Stella's serving Kriek. I was in Belgium last year and my (Belgian) friends were amazed that I didn't like beer. We went to the local pub where they were determined to find a beer I liked. Well, Kriek certainly filled the bill. I had 3 one night (previously I've never finished a single beer). I'm so glad to hear that Stella's serves it. Next time I'm in Vancouver, I know where I'm going.
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Old Jul 4th, 2008, 08:04 PM
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Thank you, Toucan2.

The weather forcast confused us today -- there was a 20% chance of rain and it said it would feel like 84 degrees F. Luckily, it did not rain, though we dutifully carried our raincoats and I was glad I had it, not for the rain that never came, but because I was often cold. We had thought about visiting a park today if the weather was to be pleasant or a museum if the rain was really bad, but planning for a confusing weather day confused us. Also, we started our day very late. We did not get out of the house until almost 1:00 pm. We decided to go to Rangoli's, a popular Indian restaurant discussed earlier on this thread, for lunch and let the day unfold.

Rangoli's had a few people in front when we arrived around 1:20 or so. Someone kindly suggested we put our name on the waiting list. We were told it would be a fifteen minute wait, but within 5 minutes or so we were seated in a small minimalistic designed dining room. Service was very pleasant and not rushed. I ordered a vegetarian mushroom and red pepper curry with a beet salad (for 13.50?) along with a ginger lime drink. I liked it very much. My husband on the other hand was not enthusiastic about his lamb dish nor did he particularly think my meal was great.Perhaps, he was reacting to all the hype and it just did not deliver for him? Who knows? I hope to convince him that we still need to try Vij's next door.

We walked around a bit, bought an eccles pastry at one of the bakeries and then realizing we were just a bridge away from Yaletown where we have not been, we took the bus over the bridge and walked around Yaletown. It was now around 4:00 at least and there was little activity. Most of the outdoor restaurants were empty except for a few early bird Friday night revelers. Perhaps, like Commercial Dr., the best time to be there is evening. All the high rises,factory fronts, and restaurants had too corporate a feel to please me. I might find it more interesting if I were part of the scene, rather than merely observing from a distance.

to be continued. . .
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 06:38 PM
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The forecast today predicted 80% rain which mean a museum day.We chose to visit the Museum of Anthropology, rated highly in our guidebooks and by Fodorites. It is only a short bus ride from Dunbar to UBC campus where you can opt to transfer to a shuttle or walk 10 minutes to the museum. Since it was drizzling, more than a heavy downpour, we walked, constantly asking if we were headed in the right directions. The campus' landscaping is lovely, as I've written before, leafy green trees, tamed gardens of lavender and wild grasses and just an overall feeling of lushness. Even in the rain, I was exclaiming to my uninterested, but polite husband how pretty it was. We had started late again and arrived at the musuem a few minutes before a scheduled tour at 2:00pm. (Admission price is $18) The docent was quite knowledgeable and interesting. The crowd, however was dense and it was not always easy to hear her commentary. People were very involved and asked some excellent questions. I wish I could have heard them all. I guess the rain and the day, Saturday, attracted so many people. She gave a nice overview of the three types of totem poleseath, house, and tourist. She also showed us John Reid's masterpiece, The Raven and the First Men which was pretty impressive. The tour was a nice introduction to the museum. Usually, I hate them, find them hard to follow with people either blocking your view or whispering behind you so you miss a lot , but this one was worthwhile. We wandered around a bit more, but were starved, having had no lunch and left around 4:00 and walked back to the bus bay to take a bus to Kits. My husband had his eye on this Greek restaurant he wanted to try, but after looking the menu over,he changed his mind, and not wanting Sushi again, we entered Las Margaritas after talking to some friendly locals outside who assured us it was very good.

I had my reservations that it would not be good, but I was tired of wandering the streets trying to find someplace that perhaps does not exist.

Perhpas,I was prejudiced from the beginning. The exterior of the building looks like dozens of chain style Mexican restaurants in and around LA. The hostess at the desk assured me it was an independent, but I am convinced that its style indicated something else. It may be the only Las Margaritas in Vancouver, but I am sure that it is part of a restaurant corportation, but I could not find that on its website when I checked later. It just has all the typical trappings of an LA El Torito or Accupulco Chain.

It did not start well, when I saw the waitress scoop up the chips in her hand and place them in a basket. The outside of the menu makes such a big deal of their health practices. The salsa tasted like tomato paste with some chiles added. My salmon tacos were dried out and tasteless. On the other hand, so I appear less negative, my husband's vegetarian fajitas were pretty good. We had crepes with a caramel sauce for dessert, but the crepes were heavy, more like pancakes, and I did not like the caramel sauce, but the ice cream was very good. Well, I did not intend to write such an extensive restaurant review. It appears I got carried away by my disappointment. We walked a bit more about Kits, getting to recognize streets and landmarks by now and took a bus back, planning to make an early night of it, so we don't get started at 1:00 in the afternoon again.

to be continued. . .
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 06:41 PM
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I have no idea how the happy face misplaced the d in the posting above!?! Does it mean something??? Just teasing.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 07:23 PM
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Oh dear! Yeah, Las Margaritas is pretty awful... I was going to mention it, but didn't (didn't want to come off too snobbish!)... but it's like Havana on Commercial Drive. People always recommend it, but it's all about the decor/patio, don't go if you care about service or food. A general point is that Vancouver's Mexican restaurants are sub-par to anything you'd get in the USA... coming from California, I'd avoid them. Or browse Chowhound.com's "Western Canada" forum if you're really looking for restaurant recommendations... as I find the posters on Chowhound have a good sense of what's worthwhile and what's worth missing.
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Old Jul 5th, 2008, 07:54 PM
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Thank you, Carmanah for your confirmation. I, on the other hand, did not want to come off too snobbish, that only good Mexican food can be found in the States or Mexico. To be fair, I am sure there are some good places here in Vancouver, but I generally don't like Mexican restaurants in California with Las Margaritas' decor,and as you put it above, it is usually more about the decor than the food at those places and also usually more about the drinks than the food. However, we were having a bit of a Mexican food withdrawal and needed something that tasted like home. Sadly, it did not come close.
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Old Jul 6th, 2008, 08:32 PM
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Today's events included a visit to North Vancouver and to Lonsdale Quay Market. It was our first time crossing over the Burrard Inlet and using the seabus. It was a pretty ride over with an interesting cityscape to watch.
the bus sure packs in a lot of people.

We expected the market to be more crowded, more like Granville Island, especially on a Sunday. We found some fast food for lunch, mine (fish and chips) was not particularly memorable, though my husband loved his meal from the Greek stand. Although, a pleasant day outing, I prefer Granville for its variety of foods, however it was great fun and we enjoyed ourselves.

We had read in a tourist guide that there was a nice walk along the Fraser River, but instead the info booth guide pointed us to a walk in Ambleside which was very nice, but it took us two buses to get there and the ride seemed interminable. (Probably about 20 minutes in all!) It was a nice walk along the inlet opposite a stoney beach with lots of large rocks and driftwood. It was quite picturesque and we snapped a few photos to make up for all the ones we haven't taken.

We had a wonderful Sushi dinner in Kits on the way back to Dunbar. The Sushi is so good here, so much better than anything I can get home. I will miss it.

By the way, have I remarked on how helpful and polite the bus drivers are here? They really help us with directions and routes. And if a bus driver fails to remind us, there are always 2 or 3 passengers looking out for us. It is truly remarkable.

A sad note for us - we are almost at the half-way point of our trip. We can't believe how much more we have to explore, but my standing philosophy is not to worry about what we don't see and instead enjoy the memory of what we do see.

More to come. . .
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Old Jul 7th, 2008, 09:42 PM
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Today took us to Bowen Island, a short 20 minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay. We inadvertently discovered Bowen Island through a chance conversation with someone on the bus. It was not in either of our travel books nor have I seen it mentioned lately on Fodor's talk. I iamgine it is a very common day trip for Vancouverites.Although, when I researched it on Fodor's , there was a tiny bit of information on it.

We took the several buses from Dunbar to get to the Horseshoe Bay Ferry Terminal. It took us about an hour with transfers, but as it turned out two people sitting near us were going to Bowen Island (one was a resident);they helped us with our bus transfers.

We could not have chosen a prettier day. Not a cloud in sight and in the high 60s. It was perfect. While we waited for the Ferry, we walked around the pretty park. There's a lovely view of the harbor. When we arrived 20 minutes later in a huge ferry boat, we found several restaurants and shops closed because it was Monday. We scouted around for food, walked the uphill walk to the village and admired the alpine setting. If we had not arrived by boat, we may have thought we were in a small mountain village. Very pretty and very quiet. I suppose, it picks up on the weekends. We had planned on hiking, but neither of us felt very energetic and we just did a few short walks. What a pretty place and so accessible to locals. How lucky they are!
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Old Jul 8th, 2008, 09:09 PM
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Another beautiful day. Perfect weather again. I inderstand we are very lucky.

We took the skytrain to New Westminster Quay to see the market, but it was practically empty and not too appealing. We walked a bit along the Fraser River, but it was pretty hot in the sun and there was little shade, so we boarded the skytrain again, to Burrard, took a bus to Denman, had some sushi (can't get enough of it!) and ended up at English Bay where we walked on the promenade watching people enjoy themselves on the beach and took the ferry to Granville Island. The short ride was fun and very pretty. We wandered around a bit, saw some shops we missed on the first trip, then took another bus to Kits, bought some Halibut for dinner (excellent!) and had a late dinner. It was not a big sightseeing day, but a very pleasant one.
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Old Jul 9th, 2008, 08:58 AM
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I look forward to reading your great
report each day - you are such receptive travellers it's a treat to
see Vancouver through your eyes.

On Sunday I drove by a couple waiting for a bus up from the Lonsdale Quay and later I wondered
if that was you - any chance you were wearing beige capris and (IIRC)
a coral top? Or maybe I'm just seeing phantom Californians and it's
so time I got a real life lol!
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Old Jul 9th, 2008, 09:36 AM
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llamalady: Thanks for the compliments. Sometimes, I wonder if I am writing in a vacuum, but I am enjoying recording my holiday, and it is pleasant when I get an occasional comment, though I cringe when I read back and see all the typos and other errors I made.

No, that was not us. I usually wear jeans and only have one pair of capris for this trip - olive colored ones and a beige skirt, the latter which I reserve for very warm days! Today, we are planning on visiting Queen Elizabeth Park after a leisurely lunch. The restaurant is still in question. We are having such a good time here in Vancouver; we will be sorry to leave. Coming here and not visiting Europe was such a good decision for us. People are friendly and we don't have to struggle with language. We speak some French and Spanish, but extended conversations are strained, it is pleasant to converse easily, get directions and ideas. It has been great fun. And people are very casual and friendly, to have a conversation is so easy and natural, whereas at home, you always worry that you are intruding or taking up someone's valuable time.

More later. . .
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