china_cat

Hi All,

I got so much help from all of you while planning this trip, I just wanted to say thanks. And post my report in hopes that it will help someone else. I'm going to leave the restaurant details and reviews for the end, because some people seem to like that, others would prefer to skip it, so I'll include it but separate. Room types and rates are include because some folks say they find the info useful.

it was just me and the DH, driving from Massachusetts, for 2 weeks in Atlantic Canada and Maine. The heart of the trip was a 1 week rental in PEI, but we decided to take some time on the way up and the way back.

We left on a Tuesday afternoon, drove to Bar Harbor. We stayed one night at the Bar Habor Motel ($110 for a room with king bed, pvt bath). It was a decent, inexpensive room very close to the ferry pier. We had reservations on the 8AM CAT ferry. we arrived around 6:50, and it took about 40 minutes to get our tickets, and get loaded onto the ferry. It must have taken even longer for the folks behind us, because the ferry didn't leave till at least 8:30. It was a smooth and pleasant ride. No view to speak of though, as Nova Scotia was pretty fogged in. Then it took forever to get through the customs gate at the other side (we were in the very slow line...8 motorcycles in front of us!). So we got a late start out of Yarmouth (probably around 1:15 already).

We drove the main highway from Yarmouth to Shelburne, stopped for lunch at Charlotte Lane Cafe. Then we took the lighthouse route through Lunenberg, visiting Blue Rocks, and Mahone Bay. This whole process (lunch, and the driving) took so long it was already 6:30 PM when we got to Mahone Bay. So we decided to skip Peggy's cove and drive straight to Halifax. I found the lighthouse thing pretty uninspiring. I guess Lunenberg and Mahone Bay were pretty enough, but barely worth the side trip. Maybe if I'd stayed longer, and explored a little I would have enjoyed them more. this was pretty much a drive by, but I feel no urge to return.

We arrived in Halifax, and checked in to the Westin Nova Scotia ($209 Cdn, king room, harbor view). Very nice room, very comfortable. The location is a few blocks furthur from the sights than some of the other big hotels, but quite convenient to the restaurants we wanted to try, so I found it a good location.

china_cat

We had 2 full days in Halifax (3 nights). I loved the city. It was a pleasant, pretty and interesting place to visit. We spent one day walking on the harborfront, visiting the Atlantic Museum (great stuff on the Halifax explosion, and my husband really liked the ship models), visiting the historic properties and the shops, and taking pictures of the fiberglass lobsters...really, these were as good as Houston's cows, and Boston's Cavalcade of Cod. We also had the good fortune to be in town for the Busker's festival, so we spent a lot of time just watching the performances in the afternoon. Juggles, fire eaters, swordswallowers, and comedians, it was pretty fun.

The 2nd day we visited the citadel, and found it more interesting than I had expected. Our timing worked out really well, so let me recommend it if you go. We arrived about 10:15, so we were just in time for the 10:30 guided tour. It finished up around 11:30, so we could see the exhibits, and go watch them fire the noon day gun. Hint here....there will be people crowded up on either side of the gunners to hear the explanation. The less crowded side is where they explain in French! my French was good enough to follow a little and translate, but it got a little iffy..."she said they are now cleaning the gun barrel, which its important to do every time they fire it, in case something is inside, and then I think she said something about pigeon sh**..."

After the gun, there were drums and pipes in the main grounds. And we were all done in time to go have lunch somewhere, and then shop and see more buskers. If it hadn't been for the buskers, we might have gone to the art museum in the afternoon, but oh well, something for next time.

Anyways, Halifax was lovely. And we had excellent weather too.

china_cat

Boy, this is already long, and we haven't finished the first week yet! hope you aren't too bored, or can find a bit of usefulness in here....

We left Saturday morning for PEI. It poured that day. In fact, every day we were driving it was raining. Which was fine, because every other day was gorgeous. How lucky could we be? 2 weeks in the Northeast, and it only rained on travel days??

Got to Caribou before 11, and were told the 11AM ferry was just arriving, and we might get on but it would be close. Well, it wasn't...there were 14 cars, and a couple RV's ahead of us when the 11AM ferry took off (at 11:30!). We had to wait for the 12:30 (which left at 1:15, of course...do they get later and later all day?)

Our house rental was on the eastern side of the north coast of PEI. We were about 20 minutes from East Point, 20 minutes due north of Souris. We deliberately picked this location as it was reputed to be very pastoral, undeveloped and quiet. we were looking forward to some serious relaxation and beach time during this week, not planning to do a lot of sightseeing or driving.

so we're driving along, following the directions, which say we'd take a left, go past an inn, then look for the sign for a private road, where we'd turn right. I expected the private road to be unpaved. We pass the inn, see the road sign and turn, and my DH says "this can't be the road...we're just in the middle of somebody's yard!" But I'm looking at the directions, and there IS a street sign, this must be the place. SO we drive through this persons yard, and come to a tire track, in a potato field. we can see nothing but potato field, lined with trees. No buildings, nothing. DH: "Are you sure we're in the right place? this isn't a road, it's a tire track." Well, the directions say drive to the left of the field. so we rumble along through the potatoes, and soon we can see the ocean in the distance. and then we see the roof of the house. It was only 10 minutes, and 1 mile, but it felt like we were driving forever,but we arrive at the house at last!

china_cat

The house was situated on a bluff, overlooking a small cove on the ocean. Our cove (yes, within days I was calling it "our cove&quot was one of the prettiest spots we visited on PEI. the aforementioned inn was next door, so there were occasionally other people around, but it was mostly extremely private. This wasn't a good place for swimming, it was too rocky for me (although I saw inn visitors go swimming off the rocks), but it was a gorgeous spot for sitting, reading, listening to the surf. And we had fabulous sunsets. The house was new (first year rental), and so it was incredibly clean, well equipped and comfortable. I couldn't have been more pleased...well, except for the mile long driveway in the potato field...that got old fast.

For swimming beaches, we went to 2 nearby public beaches. I absolutely loved the beach at Greenwich National Park. It was very pretty, and practically empty on a weekday. You walked on a boardwalk through dunes for 5 minutes or so to get to the beach, so it felt very isolated from civilization. On the other hand, that may not remain true for much longer, not when they start building "The Estates at Greenwich", some 75 luxury homes right outside the parking lot. I'd say go within the next 2 years...it just won't be as nice after.

we also enjoyed hiking the trails through the barachois to the parabolic dunes at Greenwich. Very interesting, and very pretty.

We also went to the Singing Sands beach at Basin head. They call it singing sands because of the noise it makes when you walk on it. I don't think it sounds like singing...it sounds like a woman with plump thighs wearing wide wale corduroys.

We didn't do much sightseeing. We explored our little corner of PEI pretty thoroughly, but we never went to Cavendish or Charlottetown. We kept saying we'd do that on a rainy day...but that never happened. we just enjoyed our surroundings, and didn't go far.

I took lots of pictures, but PEI was pretty in a way that defied my ability to photograph it. It wasn't dramatically pretty the way mountains and forests are pretty. It was all rolling green fields, acres of yellow flowers, bright blue skies, and little churches with their white steeples shining in the sun. It was those incredible red dirt roads. through potato fields, and woods, leading directly into turquoise ocean.

can you tell that I liked it a lot, and I want to go back? I surely did. Oh, and we were never bothered by mosquitos, and never saw a single jelly fish. Water temperatures were around 68-70 degrees, so the water was defintely swimmable. No surf to speak of, although there was some the day after we had an overnight thunder shower. The water was, in fact, incredibly clear. My only issue with the beaches is they tend to be so shallow, you can't really swim much at low tide...when we were at Singing Sands I thought maybe you could walk to Nova Scotia at low tide.

china_cat

okay, I'm gonna finish up in a hurry now, I promise.

we reluctantly left PEI after a week, a drove across the bridge, and down to the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick. This was an extra day we added to the trip, and its all your fault...posters here kept recommending Hopewell Cape, and the tides, and I decided I had to go.

So we stopped in at Hopewell Rocks that afternoon. Again, the drive had taken longer than we expected (this happened a lot on this trip!), and it had rained a little bit. When we got to the Rocks it was high tide. So we saw them, but couldn't go down to the bay floor. We left, for our B&B in Alma, and planned to come back for low tide. But we were tired that evening, and thought we'd do it first thing in the morning. But the next day was travel day, so it was pouring. We never did get back. We did see low tide in Alma, with the fishing boats resting on the shore. And the rocks were pretty cool even at high tide. Still, I'm sorry I didn't time it better, but it just wasn't possible. the tides didn't cooperate with me!

Alma was a nice enough little town. We stayed at the Captain's Inn ($95cdn, 1 queen bed, pvt bath, bkfst included). The inn was very nice, especially at the price.

the next morning we drove through the Fundy National Park, but, of course, it was pouring, so we didn't stop for a short hike, or anything. It was mostly a driving day on to Bar Harbor.

We stayed 3 nights in Bar Harbor at the Bar Harbor Inn (BIG splurge, at $340/night for a harbor view room in the main inn). I LOVED this place. One of the few big splurge rooms where I felt it was worth the price. Comfortable room, great bathroom with jacuzzi tub, a nice little deck with an awesome view of the harbor. Service was excellent. Even the included continental breakfast was pretty good. (well, except for the bad coffee, but then I'm picky about coffee).

I'll save the Acadia details, that probably belongs inthe US forum anyways. but it was a nice way to end the trip.

Then the long drive home, and the one black mark of the whole time...I got a freakin' speeding ticket in Maine, and it cost me the equivalent of one more night at the Bar Harbor Inn!! yuck! (no, I wasn't driving THAT fast, it was just in a construction zone so the fine was doubled....)

and that was it. A great 2 weeks. Thanks for reading this far (well, if anybody made it through...) I hope somebody out there finds it helpful.

I will post more with restaurant details, but later.

marcarc

Nice letter, very interesting reading. One thing was missing though, what about the people-or were you reclusing? We have stayed twice in PEI but stayed on the west side, at the Jacques Cartier Provincial Park near Alberton. I love that end of the island, very remote. It was just a fifteen minute drive to see the giant windmills and of course they have a whole scientific museum there about how they work. There is also a beautiful walking trail. That's just my two cents worth-do carry on

faithie

O.K. , now I'm homesick for my beauty little island !! Think I;ll call mom, and sisters , and brothers and ...... ( great report , do try to get west a little next time , you will be happy u did )

Daniel_Williams

China Cat,

Thanks for posting a trip report. I agree that Halifax is a super city, without a doubt in my mind one of the most interesting and fun in its size range (100-500 thousand people) in North America, with definitely a character all its own.

Your trip inspires me to do a trip I've been mulling, Moncton combined with Charlottetown.

Cheers and thanks! DAN

laurafromtexas

Thanks so much for the wonderful trip report. It's been 2 years since my mother, daughter, and I visited Nova Scotia and PEI and I dearly wish we could return. Like you, I loved the peaceful and pastoral setting that PEI offers -- so different from the hustle-bustle busyness of life in the U.S. I was so taken by all the pretty white-steepled churches that I took pictures of as many as possible and made a scrapbook page of them.

china_cat

thanks for reading, and your kind comments.

marcarc, I guess we are a bit reclusive when travelling. but our interactions with people during this trip were very pleasant. in general, folks seemed to be laid back and relaxed. service was friendly most every where we went.

faithie, i will most definitely try to see the western side of the island next time. i'm sure it is also very pretty. the drive times for this entire trip seemed longer than i expected, so we never covered as much as I hoped. I do expect to go back sometime. while its a long drive from home, its not impossible, and could be done with a single overnight stop in each direction.

Laura, coming from New England, I thought I'd seen the prettiest little white churches. but the one's in PEI always seemed to be at the top of hills, with farmland and small towns surrounding them, so they just make beautiful landmarks. New England churches are more likely to be surrounded by trees, and not jutting up against the sky like that. it was remarkable. my personal favorite was the one in St Peter's, across the bay from the Inn at St Peter's. from the inn (where we had lunch one day) you could look across their fabulous gardens, and the bay with all the mussel lines, to the little white church. it was incredibly picturesque.

faithie

My father built that steeple on the church across St.peter's Bay !!! True story ..... My family is from " down-east " as we say , and my father was a master carpenter . Greenich is one of my fave places as well , but growing up there were no boardwalks and it was completely different than it is now even. Really too bad about those luxury homes . Yuck !! During W.W.2. St.Peter's lost the most young men per capita than any other place in Canada . My grandfather died at 85 happily dancing a "jig" at the " Circle " in St.Peters ...... ( another true story ) I am glad you appreciated P.E.I.'s charm . Areas to consider next time are Rustico , Stanhope , Dalvay , Tracadie , Stanley Bridge , Canoe Cove , Argyle Shore .......... ( true about the church !! )

CindyW

China Cat, if you're still reading this, I'd love to know the name of where you stayed near Souris. It sounds wonderful!

mayilove

Thank you so much!!! I enjoyed it a lot.

china_cat

Cindy,
you can find the house on the web. It's www.champagnevista.com. The pictures are quite accurate...it was just as nice as it looked.