tomarkot

Melnq8, just joining your wonderful TR of your latest NZ adventure. Your pics are beautiful, and fun for us to experience, through your report, many areas which we have yet to explore. Thanks!

We have a lot of empathy for your brother and his long, long journey. Of course, you make that same lengthy trip to visit home in CO. Guess it's just the price of travel to and from the Land Down Under!

We like your comment about a 2 1/2 hour trek stretching into an 8 hour day. We experience the same as we stop so often.

We'll be awaiting your next installment.

Melnq8

Thank you tomarkot.

As if CO-NZ isn't bad enough, it's another 6-7 hours to Perth. We couldn't be further away if we tried.

Melnq8

Day 9 – Motueka to Punakaiki

Unfortunately, it was time to move on. Although we’d accomplished what we set out to, there was still so much to see and do - the Nelson Beer Trail and Farmers Market, arts and craft galleries, un-explored bakeries and cafes, un-discovered walking tracks, beaches and caves, and of course the entire Nelson wine region. No matter how often I visit the South Island, there’s never enough time.

We made the final drive to Motueka and worked our way towards Kohatu-Tapawere via the Motueka Valley Highway. I’ve always liked this drive, especially in autumn, when the trees alongside the river are changing color. Today there were lambs, daffodils and leafless trees. We passed row after row of naked hop fields and numerous honesty stands selling kumara, apples and bags of horse poo.

We joined SH 6 at Kohatu, surrounded by fields of gorse and well-logged forests and then continued over Hope Saddle through Kahurangi National Park. We stopped for lunch in Murchison, seeking out Rivers, a café I knew from previous trips. Here Bob tucked into a massive hamburger complete with fried egg; I went for the tomato chorizo soup, which came in a bowl big enough to swim in (good, $34 with flat whites).

Fourteen kilometers southwest of Murchison, we stopped to explore The Buller Gorge Swing Bridge, New Zealand’s longest, where we paid $5 each to access the 110 meter bridge and walk the 15 minute loop track on the opposite side. I knew this bridge long before it became a commercial enterprise, and I’ve boycotted it since, as it bothers me that a piece of NZ history has been reduced to a fee-driven tourist trap. Nonetheless, since Bob had only experienced a handful of swing bridges, I thought he might get a kick out of seeing this one. The consensus - mildly interesting diversion, but a serious sand fly-o-rama, thanks to the muggy, overcast day.

We forged south, detouring to Westport to pick up some groceries and to soak up bit of West Coast flavor at a rough and tumble boozer, The Empire, Bob leaving $12 richer after a go with the pokies (penny slot machines), me breaking even. It dawned on me that I’d not had any NZ ice cream yet, so I rectified that with a scoop of Hokey Pokey at a milk bar as we left town.

Back in the car, we continued our drive, which was beginning to feel like it would never end. Staying alert while navigating the seemingly endless squiggles was exhausting; I’m not sure how the Kiwis do it day after day.

Nearly eight hours after leaving Motueka, we arrived in Punakaiki and got settled into The Beachfront Motel (dated but adequate, woodsy, unit #3 had a sour smell, but was warm & comfy, well equipped, no views as the units all face a gravel seawall, but we could hear the crash of the waves, utterly useless internet, issues with booking, many e-mails went unanswered, I came very close to giving up, $130 per night).

It seems we brought the rain. The proprietor of the motel told us that the sun had been shining in Punakaiki for the last 3.5 weeks. It figures. He also told us that he routinely drives from Nelson to Punakaiki in 2.75 hours. Huh.

The remote, sparsely populated West Coast sees some 2000-3000 mm rain per year, and in all my visits to Punakaiki, I can’t remember a completely clear day. This entry in our unit’s guestbook pretty much sums it up:

An ode to Punakaiki

It rained and rained and rained.

The average fall was well maintained.

And when the tracks were simple bogs,

It started raining cats and dogs.

After a drought of half an hour,

We had a most refreshing shower.

And then, the most curious thing of all,

A gentle rain began to fall.

Next day but one was fairly dry,

Save for one deluge from the sky,

Which wet the party to the skin,

And then at last, the rain set in.

Anonymous

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647759874442/

dottyp

Hi, Mel.

As usual enjoying your TR. Thanks for sharing it and the photos. Funny thing while looking at your photos - the coffee photos were the first to pop up! Must be our combined coffee devotion/passion making this happen.

Our Motueka cousins took us to Riwaka Resurgence last trip there - I had heard of it but wasn't sure where it was, so it was good to be taken there.
On my first trip to Puponga and Collingwood over 41 years ago, I met one of the pit ponies from the Puponga mines a family friend owned. We looked at purchasing a piece of land there a few years later but felt we just couldn't afford the $NZ500 asking price! When we went back about 10 years ago to visit Farewell Spit (the first time for me, umpteenth time for DH) we were stunned at how developed the whole area had become.

Amazing how many of your photos look very similar (although better) to some of mine. Great photos, Mel. Now I am retired I am going to learn more about my camera, and getting the best out of each photo opportunity.

Melnq8

Thanks Dotty -

I do love my coffee!

I find it interesting that a town the size of Collingwood and an area devoid of people could be considered 'developed'. The couple we met from the NI who were on a 2-3 South Island tour had spent about six weeks there. She laughed when I asked her what on earth had they done to fill their time.

I do get what you mean though as every time I return to NZ, it feels as if it's grown in my absence. Pu-Pu Springs for instance, has turned into an official attraction with boardwalks, information boards and kiosks. I could have sworn there was nothing there but the springs and a dirt path the last time I visited.

What are pit ponies?

dottyp

Hi, Mel,

Pit ponies were used in the coal mines to move the coal wagons through the mine shafts and up to the surface. I have a feeling they often lived underground, although I'm not sure about the pony I met. I took a photo of it but not sure at present where it is - probably in Havelock North, where everything I want and can't find here in Wellington happens to be!
I know what you mean about the development of Collingwood - not as a developer would expect, but Puponga has certainly grown and spread out since I first went there.

And I agree about Pu-Pu Springs. When we were last down there, in 2008, was the first time we saw some major development around the springs in the form of boardwalks.

Songdoc

I'm loving your STUNNING photos as much as your report. I'm currently in Wellington; next stop Auckland--and my NZ scenery is now behind me. Your photos--especially of Abel Tasman--made me wish I could turn my car around and somehow squeeze in at least another week!!!

Melnq8

Thank you Songdoc and dotty!

Melnq8

Day 10 – Punakaiki

The morning brought more gloom, but it was dry! We were fed and out the door early, with plans to explore as many walking tracks as we could fit into our solitary day. We began with the Pororari River Track, where we followed the Pororari River upstream through a beautiful gorge into Paparoa National Park. Having not checked river crossing conditions before we set out, we turned around at the Inland Pack track junction (two hours, six km). On the way back, we ran into the proprietor of our motel, Bruce, who was fishing. A discussion ensued, and we learned that it’s now possible to walk the Pororari River Track and the Inland Pack Track as an (almost) loop, regardless of river conditions, as they’ve built two bridges since I was last here.

Next up was the Truman track, an easy 15 minute stroll to a beach. The tide was in, making it unsafe to explore, so we wandered a side trail for awhile and then drove to the village to kill some time before high tide at 11:23 am - THE time to see the Pancake Rocks blowholes in all their blowing glory. We poked through Punakaiki’s only shop and shared a rather excellent brownie at their coffee bar.

Best laid plans and all that...sea conditions weren’t in our favor, high tide or not. We patiently awaited the show, but it never came. So, we wandered the track, explored the limestone formations, took in the not-quite-clear sea views and swatted sand flies. Bummer.

After a picnic lunch near the village, we drove out to the start of the Inland Pack Track to examine the new aforementioned suspension bridge, which is massive (!) and felt like serious overkill for the scrawny Punakaiki River, but then again, this IS the wet West Coast. Tempting as it was to walk as far as the second new bridge (one hour each way), we settled for walking about 40 minutes return. Note to future walkers: per Bruce, if walking the combined tracks, it’s best to start at the Inland Pack side as it’s not as steep; pick-up/drop-off is needed at one end, as it’s not a complete loop.

Soon we were picking our way along the rough, six kilometer unsealed Bullock Creek Road, a myriad of signs warning us of the potential for sudden flooding as we worked our way through the narrow canyon; me nervously watching the ominous dark clouds building directly in front of us. Once at the end of the road we walked the track to Cave Creek, site of the 1995 viewing platform collapse which killed 14 people and seriously injured four others. Despite its haunting history, this is an enjoyable walk; the track meanders through beech forest, eventually descending into a gorge of large moss covered boulders, the site where Cave Creek resurges. It’s simultaneously dark, creepy and fascinating; Bob seemed to really enjoy it here (1:15 return).

Naturally, the sun appeared just in time to set. We returned to the Truman Track for an encore walk to the coastline; quietly hoping to spot a penguin or two, the tide low enough to explore the beach this time. It’s amazing the difference a few hours can make, it looked like an entirely different place.

Suddenly struck by an intense ice cream craving (that would be me), we drove back into the village café for a scoop of lemon/lime Tip Top (which tasted suspiciously like bubble gum). Huh.

We then explored the beach at Punakaiki Resort, surprised to find the stick figure ‘Punakaiki’ sign that I’ve so often seen in tourist literature; I had no idea where it was located. We enquired about drinks and dinner, but the young woman working reception was vague about whether or not non-guests could partake, so we left, somewhat confused.

That evening we walked from our motel to the endearingly quirky Punakaiki Tavern, each table sporting a green washcloth centerpiece to cushion the salt and pepper shakers. Oh how I wish I’d had my camera! Other than the seemingly ‘guest only’ (?) Punakaiki Resort, the tavern is the only game in town for dinner. We settled in at a table right in front of their fire; Bob tucking into a fully loaded Kiwi style hamburger; me settling for $5 WiFi and a cider. It’d been yet another full day, temperatures had reached 19c (66F) and we’d not even gotten wet. We’d pretty much ‘done’ Punakaiki.

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647363923398/

Melnq8

Day 11 – Punakaiki to Akaroa

With a long drive day ahead, we were out the door by 6:30 am, winding our way south on SH 6, following the coastline along the angry-looking Tasman Sea, grey skies and obscured views detracting from this usually pretty drive. In Greymouth we gassed our thirsty Corolla ($2.22 a liter!) and sought out caffeine at the Gap Cafe. We were met at the door by the friendly owner who informed us they were hosting a private function, but welcomed us anyway. Nice guy that one.

Refreshed, we continued south, turning inland at Kumara Junction, working our way east along SH 73 to Arthur’s Pass. Here we stopped at the Otira Viaduct overlook, where we were entertained by two inquisitive Keas, the world’s only alpine parrot. Keas are raucous, intelligent and cheeky. They’re attracted to people and amuse themselves by destroying property; the rubber strips around car windows and windshields provide endless entertainment.

After perusing the Arthur’s Pass Visitors Center, listening to birdcalls and learning about the engineering of the Otira Viaduct, we forged on, somewhat slowed down by my incessant need for photos now that the sun was out and the views gorgeous.

Nourishment beckoned; we stopped for a cake and brownie break at Express Yourself in the country town of Darfield, before motoring on towards Christchurch, where we eventually joined SH 75 to Banks Peninsula. The sweet village of Little River begged a proper look, so we called in at The Little River Gallery, a treasure trove of 100% NZ made artwork and keepsakes, and became fascinated with the unexpected Silo Stay; for which the word unique seems ridiculously inadequate. I loved the whole concept; shiny grain silos transformed into motel units, very cool indeed. I might just have to incorporate Little River into my next trip to the South Island for the sole purpose of staying in one of these ‘silo cocoons’.

More here: http://www.silostay.kiwi.nz/

We worked our way up and down the twisty roads of Banks Peninsula, surrounded by vibrant green hills and rolling countryside. We passed through Cooptown, the name sending us into gales of laughter and spurring a rhyming game reminiscent of our childhood road trips.

Wood fired pizza awaited us at Hilltop Tavern, where we admired the stunning panoramic views over a late lunch ($49 shared pizza and drinks) before making the final descent into the French settlement of Akaroa, the terminus for SH 75 and home to some ~560 people, tucked alongside a sheltered harbor in an extinct volcano.

It had taken us nine hours to drive from Punakaiki; we got settled into our home for the next three nights, Criterion Motel (the good: upgraded to second floor unit #7 with harbor views, roomy and well equipped, very friendly and helpful proprietor, the bad: curtains and upholstered furniture could use a good clean, unit faced grocery store loading dock which was noisy in the early morning, décor a bit tired, fickle internet, $140 per night).

It’d been a very long day, but we’d been blessed with decent weather en route, and Akaroa welcomed us with clear blue skies and late afternoon sunshine.

With motel proprietor Mike’s promise of more nice weather ahead, we booked the 12:45 pm harbor cruise with Akaroa Dolphins for the following day ($74 each).

We then set out on foot to explore this beautiful slice of the South Island; we walked the jetty, meandered along the waterfront to the lighthouse and poked through the cemetery above town. We toasted the beautiful day with drinks at Le Hotel and sought provisions at Four Square. I’d thought we’d become accustomed to the high cost of food in NZ, but I was shocked at the prices and the dismal lack of...everything....at this, the only grocery store in town. Had I known, we’d have stocked up in Christchurch. As our day drew to a close, we ate a make-do dinner in our motel room and experienced the first bad tap water we’d had in NZ.

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647359975200/

dottyp

Hi, Mel,

Thanks for another interesting insight into places I have travelled regularly, and enjoy. And the amazing photos, too.

Dot

Kwaussie

Such gorgeous photos- they have me yearning for those 'rippled' hills.
Awesome report

Melnq8

Thanks for tuning in Dot and Kwaussie! I'll try to get this baby wrapped up in the next few days.

Bokhara2

You know, I just love your style of exploring & writing, Mel. You notice the little things ( like the curl of that leaf), appreciate the ebbs & flows of travelling in the country & have an enquiring but not intrusive mind.
Big difference between someone who's genuinely interested in different lifestyles & those who think everything beyond their immediate experience is "weird".

" ....and sought out caffeine at the Gap Cafe. We were met at the door by the friendly owner who informed us they were hosting a private function, but welcomed us anyway. Nice guy that one." That's how we found the vast majority of Kiwis too - very welcoming & accommodating.

No surprise this one welcomed you & Bob. You'd be most welcome visitors anywhere.

ElendilPickle

Another fabulous report!

Lee Ann

Melnq8

I'm genuinely touched by your kind comments Bokhara. I take great pleasure in the small things (much to the dismay of my traveling companions!)

The Kiwis are indeed accommodating and always seem willing to go the extra mile, traits I thoroughly appreciate.

Melnq8

Day 12 - Akaroa

We had a quiet, comfortable night; up and ready to go long before the 7:30 am bustle began at the Four Square loading dock. Late sleepers beware; it gets mighty noisy. We could also clearly hear the folks above us moving about, doors closing, and conversation below us in the parking lot and office.

Mike had spoken highly of the breakfast crepes at the French owned café right next door, so we walked over and settled in at Les Declies (a.k.a. Sweet As). Having been open only a week they were a bit disorganized, but the food was lovely; we both really enjoyed our meals, a ham/cheese crepe topped with fried egg for Bob and a parmesan/asparagus crepe for me ($10.50 each, very filling, good value). As we ate, we watched Mike through the café’s windows, wandering through the streets of Akaroa, stopping to chat with everyone he passed. Small town living.

We spent the next three hours sightseeing; we walked through the sleepy town, climbed up to the hillside residential areas to admire the colonial architecture and poked along the myriad tracks in the Garden of Tane. We took the advice of a passing resident and walked to the Britomart Monument overlooking the harbor. We walked...and walked... and walked...friendly locals stopping to say hello as we passed. It was a glorious spring day, the skies a vibrant blue, bushes covered in bright purple flowers, scattered daffodils, not a cloud in the sky, photo nirvana.

During our second pass through town we sampled the goods at L’Escargot Rouge, one of many cafes on the main street, me quite excited to discover they had Kapati ice cream, Bob trying his luck with a cherry slice and almost breaking a tooth on a pit.

We eventually worked our way down to the wharf and boarded our 50 foot vessel, Into the Blue, immediately offered beer, wine or water, nice touch. We were two of 14 people aboard a boat that can accommodate up to 50, so there was plenty of room to stretch out. Over the next two hours our two woman crew filled us in on the history and wildlife of the area. We saw a penguin, seals and several Hector’s dolphins, the rarest and smallest dolphins in the world. It was a lovely excursion, particularly on such a beautiful day, topped off with cookies offered by our crew.

More relaxation followed at The Brasserie's Happy Hour, situated in a lovely garden near our motel; the wine pours generous, the service abrupt.

All around a brilliant day.

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647778224945/

Melnq8

Day 13 – Akaroa

The morning brought grey skies and gloom, what a difference a day makes. We walked up to The Brasserie, me thinking Bob might want to try a bacon and egg butty, but both of us opting for bagels instead. Just like yesterday, the surly, Capri-wearing (and presumably French) proprietor was on site and apparently still in a bad mood, making me wonder if he was in the wrong line of work.

We drove to Duvauchelle with plans to walk the Onawe Peninsula, a whale-shaped mass of land that protrudes into the water, dividing the top of Akaroa Harbor into Barry’s Bay and Duvauchelle Bay. This is the site of a bloody Maori massacre and is considered sacred. Although I’d walked Onawe unfettered years ago, I’d read that walkers now need permission from the heritage officer; I enquired about this at the Akaroa visitor’s center, and then again at our motel, but was told there were no restrictions.

The Onawe track is only accessible at low tide; the peninsula becomes an island when the tide is in. As we set out along the rocky beach, I fretted that I might have misunderstood the low tide times I’d been given at the visitor’s center, but felt better after seeing some locals walking their dogs not far behind us. We followed the path to the tip of the peninsula and back, about an hour return. The views up here are incredible on a clear day, but unfortunately today wasn’t clear. As I groused my discontent with the gloom, Bob pointed out that he thought it was darn pretty, grey skies and all.

We next visited Barry’s Bay Cheese and French Farm Winery, where we had a lively chat with manager Janet, learning quite a bit about the challenges of growing grapes on the peninsula.

I’d hoped to explore the overlooks and tracks along Summit Road, but the weather just got worse and worse – in fact, we needed our rain gear for the first time - so we poked through Rose’s Cottage Gallery and then returned to town for a Kapati ice cream fix (that would be me) at L’Escargot Rouge. As we vacated our parking spot along a narrow one way road, we felt an unwelcome thump. Bloody hell! I’d backed right into a light pole. I cursed all the way back to the motel as visions of my first ever rental car claim danced through my head, Bob all the while assuring me that car bumpers are pretty durable. He was right, there wasn’t a bit of damage; calm was restored.

After lunch in our room, we spent the afternoon wandering the streets of Akaroa; we visited the museum, various shops and galleries, and I enjoyed a nice coffee at the cute General Store. The weather still miserable, we played the pokies at one of the local boozers, making me $22 richer. We eventually retreated to our room to gaze at the non-views from our window. It was just that kind of day.

Bob’s big NZ culinary adventure last year involved the discovery of meat pies, finally acquiescing out of sheer hunger as he stood before the display case of a bakery in Wanaka. One bite and he never looked back.

Thus far I’d only been able to talk my non-adventurous food eater brother into crepes. He accidentally discovered (and seemed to genuinely enjoy) fried eggs and beetroot on his hamburgers and sweet chili sauce on his wedges, but I’d been unsuccessful in tempting him with green-lipped mussels, kumara and bacon/egg baps, let alone whitebait

I was still determined to introduce Bob to something a bit more refined than Kiwi burgers, so we walked over to Akaroa’s award winning Ma Maison for dinner. Neither of us was keen on the offerings of duck, venison or lamb, so we did the next best thing, we shared an assortment of entrees, tapas style, choosing the pork rillettes, chicken Caesar salad and panko crumbed fromage.

I suspect Bob had resigned himself to going hungry, but his initial hesitation turned into gobbling glee the minute the beautifully presented food was placed before us – how can anyone resist fried cheese? For dessert we shared a decadent chocolate concoction, almost too pretty to eat, garnished with tiny squares of chocolate jelly – and me without my camera.

We spent a good two hours at Ma Maison, sipping beer and wine, soaking up the ambiance and watching the world go by. The food was lovely, the service...entertaining. The young staff had a rough night, one of them almost burning the place down as he tried to start a fire in the fireplace. The room filled with smoke and set off the fire alarm; diners were forced to evacuate the building, some mid-meal. We were compensated with a round of free drinks, making it a rather boozy night ($78, best meal of the trip).

The staff earned bonus points with their forthright explanation of DCC (dynamic currency conversion, a scheme devised by banks to squeeze more money out of customers by ‘offering’ to charge credit cards in the currency of one’s own country). Nothing irritates me more than a retailer who doesn’t offer customers the option of overriding card readers that automatically default to the currency of the credit card. Not only did Ma Maison offer it, they explained and encouraged it, bravo!

I didn’t take a single photo today!

Melnq8

Day 14- Akaroa-Christchurch-Auckland

We left Akaroa just after 7 am, the morning clear, crisp and beautiful. We worked our way up the peninsula, me pulling over every five minutes to take photos of the rolling hills and bays, gorgeous in the early morning light. It was just so darn pretty...where was this weather yesterday?

We stopped in Little River for breakfast at the café, a massive serving of eggs on toast for Bob, a tasty blueberry friand and flat white for me ($23). We inched towards Christchurch, stuck behind an erratic driver in a no passing zone; inexplicably missing our turn to the airport and ending up right in the thick of earthquake ravaged downtown.

I simultaneously lost my bearings, my composure, and my patience. Evidently my brother and I share the same directionally challenged, poor navigation gene. Fortunately, it was Sunday morning and traffic was light; we eventually managed to find the airport, only to get confused again trying to locate the APEX rental depot. By now I was thoroughly annoyed and thankful that we’d allowed extra time. We’d logged 1,895 km during our two weeks and I was tired of driving; the narrow squiggly roads of the South Island had taken a toll.

Once in the airport we checked in for our flight to Auckland and decompressed in the Koru Lounge.

Upon arrival in Auckland, we collected my luggage (Bob’s had been checked through to LAX), walked over to the international terminal, checked into the Novotel across the street and dropped off our bags (smallish room, spotless, quiet, comfortable, very convenient, 30 minutes of free Internet use from lobby, $234). Sorted, we walked back to the international terminal, bought tickets for the Airport Express to the city ($28 each return) and joined the rather long queue for the 2 pm bus.

Some forty-five minutes later we were deposited a stone’s throw from our destination, the Sky Tower, the tallest manmade structure in New Zealand at 328 meters (1,076 feet). In addition to the casino and entertainment complex on the lower floors, the tower boasts three viewing platforms, a couple of chic restaurants and a café. Not exciting enough? Well, there’s also the Skywalk, where the fearless can pay $145 to walk along the outside edge of the Sky Tower 192 meters from the ground, and the Sky Jump, New Zealand’s highest wired base jump. As we saw firsthand, people do indeed pay $225 to jump off a perfectly good building.

Our $28 per person admission gave us access to three floors of the tower at 182, 186 and 220 meters. We wiled away the afternoon, watching the insanely adventurous flash by the windows on their wire-assisted jumps, wandering between the observation decks; the skies indecisive; the views ever-changing, the sheer size of Auckland a bit overwhelming after our two weeks in the country.

After drinks in the Sky Lounge beneath the main observation deck, we returned to earth and sought out sustenance, Bob balking as I made a beeline for a kebab shop, but relenting after I reminded him that he’d eaten, and liked, gyros, so chances are he’d like kebabs too (and indeed he did, Kebab Time on Victoria Street, $17 for two). We perched on stools at the window and watched an endless parade of people scurry through the hectic streets of Auckland.

In desperate need of a loo, we popped into a Starbucks...I absolutely could not believe how busy it was – two floors, completely jam packed with people and a line to the door. Have these folks never tried a flat white?

We retraced our steps, boarding a bus back to the airport just as I realized I’d misplaced my ticket. The bus driver was understandably miffed, but waved me on when I showed him my credit card slip and promised to locate the ticket (which I produced when we got off at the airport). Cities never fail to discombobulate me.

Back at the hotel we relaxed for a bit, then I walked Bob over to the International terminal and bid him adieu.

Photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647366011518/

Day 15 – Auckland

After a restful night in the hotel, breakfast at an airport café, much wandering and people watching, I checked in for my flight and settled in the Koru Lounge to await my 2:20 pm flight to Perth. I was chuffed that my $190 One Up bid to Premium Economy had been accepted just hours before, but even more so when I discovered I’d be flying on Air NZ's 787-9 Dreamliner, which commenced service on this route just three days prior. There’d been quite a bit of media fanfare on New Zealand TV when they retired the 747 from their fleet, but I didn’t realize they’d started flying the Dreamliner.

I knew something was up the minute I boarded; the flight attendants seemed positively gleeful, this was all new to them too. I'm hardly an airplane buff, but I loved this plane. Brand spanking new, incredibly quiet, the seats very comfortable, the lighting soft, the leg rests a godsend, the entertainment system extensive, and the instruction video explaining how to work the various gadgets much needed and appreciated. Very nice indeed.

As usual in Air NZ's premium cabins, the service was excellent. And the food... my roasted chicken breast with chorizo crushed potatoes and rocket salad vaporized. It almost made up for the inedible food on my inbound flight from SYD to CHC. Sandwiches, fruit and scones with cream and jam were a nice touch prior to landing.

I was a happy camper.

Bob and I caught up a few days later; his flights had gone seamlessly, a big improvement over his inbound flights. He was exhausted but glad to be home.

I think I can safely say that a good time was had by all.
________________________

annhig

ending up right in the thick of earthquake ravaged downtown.

I simultaneously lost my bearings, my composure, and my patience. Evidently my brother and I share the same directionally challenged, poor navigation gene. Fortunately, it was Sunday morning and traffic was light; we eventually managed to find the airport, only to get confused again trying to locate the APEX rental depot.>>

Mel - you are not alone. We found CC a most confusing place and managed to misplace our car completely, only finding it again after an hour's wandering aimlessly with increasing ire with ourselves and each other. Eventually DH found it just round the corner from a bar in which I had sat myself refusing to budge another inch! Perhaps the "fun" we had trying to find the Apex depot had affected us - we decided that the first thing we should do on arriving in CC was to find it and then book ourselves into the nearest convenient motel, as we had a stupidly early flight out; but even with our GPS its position remained infuriatingly obscure. Eventually we phone them and they gave us directions to the parking lot across the road from where we were.

Glad we aren't the only ones to struggle!

Loved the end to your TR, even if the weather did not co-operate. and the flight home sounds like a dream.....