Tasmania, Melbourne, and the Great Ocean Road--November/December 2015
Apr 3rd, 2016, 11:12 AM
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DELORAINE, Dec. 7
We were ultimately headed to the east coast where we had reservations for the following night on the Freycinet Peninsula, but on this day we were going only a short distance, having made reservations at a B&B in the town of Deloraine to break up the drive.
We didn’t have a clear idea what we intended to do for the day, so when the Highlanders owner suggested that we visit the rural town of Sheffield to see the murals that are its claim to fame, we were off. We drove northeast through countryside that alternated between bush and farmland toward Sheffield, with a detour to the village of Wilmot, which is known for its curious mailboxes in such forms as a yellow submarine, an owl, a kangaroo, and repurposed equipment. I took the obligatory mailbox photos and we continued on to Sheffield for breakfast at the Blacksmith’s Gallery, an arty café that was housed in a former blacksmith’s shop. On the exterior walls of the Gallery were murals that depicted the work of the blacksmiths who once plied their trade at this location.
From here we walked up and down the three-block-long main street examining the many murals that show the history and activities of the area from aboriginal times to the present. The murals were surprisingly good, if not quite the modern graphics we are used to on city walls. A back street and a small park contained an exhibit of murals from the most recent annual muralist competition and some of the best murals from previous competitions. These were more of a mixed bag, but a few were also very good. At the end of town we spotted a ramshackle building that advertised ice cream and Chinese food—a curious mix. We were chuckling about it until we reached the front window of the restaurant, where recent newspaper reviews were posted that praised the food and stated that this was where chefs came to eat Chinese food. It wasn’t open for lunch without an advance reservation a day ahead, but we made a mental note and considered returning for dinner if that fit in with our evolving plans.
From Sheffield we drove southeast toward Deloraine, with a stop on the way to photograph huge fields of commercially grown white opium poppies in full bloom. Each field had a large sign warning us to keep out--dangerous pharmaceuticals being grown there. Who knew that Tasmania is an opiate growing center?
Our B&B in Deloraine was called Bonney’s Inn (A$150/night) and was housed in the oldest brick building in town, across the street from the river that flows through town. The front garden was a bit unkempt and the floors of the ancient building were very uneven, reminding us of some of the inexpensive places we had stayed in in our younger days. But the place had charm and the owner was extremely friendly and helpful, allowing us to check in at 1 pm. We asked her for recommendations on what to do with our afternoon and she suggested a visit to the caves near Mole Creek. So we were off to the west (from whence we had come) to visit Marakoopa Cave (A$19 each) near Mole Creek. There we booked the 3:00 tour at the ticket office, then walked ½ km along a green, bushy path to the cave entrance.
The cave tour was great. We climbed some steep stairs toward the back of the large cave to see impressive stalactites, stalagmites, columns, cavestone terraces, thin, thread-like features, and a cavern sparkling with glow worms. The guide was informative and we had good conversation with a couple from Taiwan and a young chemist before and during the tour. When the tour ended we hung around talking and the guide asked if the five of us would like to go back into the cave to see something special that she can’t take a larger group to. Yes, of course! So we reentered the cave and were led to a place we could see amazing cave spiders, as well as more glow worms, adding to our growing list of Australian animal sightings. It’s amazing that these creatures can live in total darkness.
Now that we were so far west, it made sense to return to Sheffield to have dinner at T’s Chinese restaurant. We arrived fairly early (5:30), which turned out to be a good thing, and were seated by the wife of the chef--it's a family operation. Apparently we were very lucky to snag a table since reservations are highly advised. We were the only diners in the funky little dining room for just a short time—by the time we finished our meal the place was full and several drop-ins had been turned away. It turns out that the family who owns and operates the restaurant also owns a nearby farm where they raise the animals and vegetables that supply the restaurant. We ordered dumplings, pepper chicken, and kung pao lamb, all of which were absolutely fresh tasting and delicious—as good as any Chinese food we’ve eaten in San Francisco. What a find!
We drove back to Deloraine and settled in our room with glasses of red wine. The next morning we learned what we should have done: take a walk along the river across from the inn, where other guests told us they saw platypuses frolicking in the river at dusk. We’ve never seen platypuses, though we’ve done our share of looking for them, and we kicked ourselves for missing this opportunity. Ahh, the one animal sighting that got away!
Next: Freycinet National Park
We were ultimately headed to the east coast where we had reservations for the following night on the Freycinet Peninsula, but on this day we were going only a short distance, having made reservations at a B&B in the town of Deloraine to break up the drive.
We didn’t have a clear idea what we intended to do for the day, so when the Highlanders owner suggested that we visit the rural town of Sheffield to see the murals that are its claim to fame, we were off. We drove northeast through countryside that alternated between bush and farmland toward Sheffield, with a detour to the village of Wilmot, which is known for its curious mailboxes in such forms as a yellow submarine, an owl, a kangaroo, and repurposed equipment. I took the obligatory mailbox photos and we continued on to Sheffield for breakfast at the Blacksmith’s Gallery, an arty café that was housed in a former blacksmith’s shop. On the exterior walls of the Gallery were murals that depicted the work of the blacksmiths who once plied their trade at this location.
From here we walked up and down the three-block-long main street examining the many murals that show the history and activities of the area from aboriginal times to the present. The murals were surprisingly good, if not quite the modern graphics we are used to on city walls. A back street and a small park contained an exhibit of murals from the most recent annual muralist competition and some of the best murals from previous competitions. These were more of a mixed bag, but a few were also very good. At the end of town we spotted a ramshackle building that advertised ice cream and Chinese food—a curious mix. We were chuckling about it until we reached the front window of the restaurant, where recent newspaper reviews were posted that praised the food and stated that this was where chefs came to eat Chinese food. It wasn’t open for lunch without an advance reservation a day ahead, but we made a mental note and considered returning for dinner if that fit in with our evolving plans.
From Sheffield we drove southeast toward Deloraine, with a stop on the way to photograph huge fields of commercially grown white opium poppies in full bloom. Each field had a large sign warning us to keep out--dangerous pharmaceuticals being grown there. Who knew that Tasmania is an opiate growing center?
Our B&B in Deloraine was called Bonney’s Inn (A$150/night) and was housed in the oldest brick building in town, across the street from the river that flows through town. The front garden was a bit unkempt and the floors of the ancient building were very uneven, reminding us of some of the inexpensive places we had stayed in in our younger days. But the place had charm and the owner was extremely friendly and helpful, allowing us to check in at 1 pm. We asked her for recommendations on what to do with our afternoon and she suggested a visit to the caves near Mole Creek. So we were off to the west (from whence we had come) to visit Marakoopa Cave (A$19 each) near Mole Creek. There we booked the 3:00 tour at the ticket office, then walked ½ km along a green, bushy path to the cave entrance.
The cave tour was great. We climbed some steep stairs toward the back of the large cave to see impressive stalactites, stalagmites, columns, cavestone terraces, thin, thread-like features, and a cavern sparkling with glow worms. The guide was informative and we had good conversation with a couple from Taiwan and a young chemist before and during the tour. When the tour ended we hung around talking and the guide asked if the five of us would like to go back into the cave to see something special that she can’t take a larger group to. Yes, of course! So we reentered the cave and were led to a place we could see amazing cave spiders, as well as more glow worms, adding to our growing list of Australian animal sightings. It’s amazing that these creatures can live in total darkness.
Now that we were so far west, it made sense to return to Sheffield to have dinner at T’s Chinese restaurant. We arrived fairly early (5:30), which turned out to be a good thing, and were seated by the wife of the chef--it's a family operation. Apparently we were very lucky to snag a table since reservations are highly advised. We were the only diners in the funky little dining room for just a short time—by the time we finished our meal the place was full and several drop-ins had been turned away. It turns out that the family who owns and operates the restaurant also owns a nearby farm where they raise the animals and vegetables that supply the restaurant. We ordered dumplings, pepper chicken, and kung pao lamb, all of which were absolutely fresh tasting and delicious—as good as any Chinese food we’ve eaten in San Francisco. What a find!
We drove back to Deloraine and settled in our room with glasses of red wine. The next morning we learned what we should have done: take a walk along the river across from the inn, where other guests told us they saw platypuses frolicking in the river at dusk. We’ve never seen platypuses, though we’ve done our share of looking for them, and we kicked ourselves for missing this opportunity. Ahh, the one animal sighting that got away!
Next: Freycinet National Park
Apr 5th, 2016, 09:40 PM
#23
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Thanks, yes! I love how so many Fodors forum posters travel the world! Hope your Ecuador trip was awesome.
Almost finished with this exceedingly long report...
COLES BAY/FREYCINET NP, Dec. 8-11
A great Bonney’s breakfast, made to order, stoked us for the long drive to the east coast. We drove around Launceston and onto the A-3, stopping in the village of Scottsdale where we shared cappuccini at The Cottage and purchased frozen curried scallop pies for our supper after we reached Freycinet. From here we drove through hilly farm country and great forests, including a myrtlewood forest, and thick ferns to St. Helens on the coast. From there we drove north along the lagoon and down to the southern end of the Bay of Fires at Binalong Bay. We had a delicious lunch at recommended Moresco overlooking the bay--excellent calamari and mixed seafood in a clear broth. Later we walked down to the bay and scrambled over red lichen-encrusted granite to view the stormy surf. It would have been great to spend more time at the Bay of Fires, but we still had a fair distance to go, so we got back in the car and headed south toward Bicheno. At least we got a glimpse of the Bay of Fires.
At Bicheno we stopped at the information center, a market, and a wine store for dinner essentials. Heading south, we turned off the main highway onto route 302 toward Coles Bay, then turned onto the gravel road that led a long ways up a steep hill (with several hopping wallaby sightings) to our lodgings for the next three nights at Freycinet Eco Retreat. We were greeted by the two owners, who live a distance away but still on the large property, and were told that we were the first guests in their new cabin complex on the hilltop (eight cabins arranged in an arc), which was opening to the public that very day.
Lodging: Freycinet Eco Retreat, http://www.freycinet.com/cabins/eco-studios, A$300 per night
Our cabin was on the small side, maybe 20’ by 10’, but very modern and well appointed, with a small fridge, two-burner stove, counter with stools for eating, and sliding glass doors onto a small platform with great views down to the Friendly. The views toward the Hazzards, in the other direction, were also beautiful. There were more electrical outlets in this cabin than anyplace else we've ever stayed--obviously it was wired for the modern traveler, though the wireless connection wasn't working in the cabins (since fixed, I believe).
Not long after we entered the cabin, J went out to the car to retrieve some items and a gust of wind through the open back sliders blew the front door of the cabin slammed shut. The door was fitted with an electronic lock, but when J entered the code it wouldn’t open. Nor could I open it from the inside--the locking mechanism was apparently stuck. Fortunately J was able to scramble up to the back platform, but for the rest of the day the back door was our only entrance and exit. For me, entering required standing on one of the outdoor chairs I had placed on the muddy ground. It was a minor irritation, made better by a wallaby visit and a gorgeous sunset. We enjoyed our scallop pies with a bottle of chardonnay and relished the pastel colored sky as evening turned to night.
The rising sun woke us up early, and after breakfast we headed down the hill after leaving a note for the owners about the door issue. In Coles Bay we reserved a kayak trip for the next day and then drove to the Freycinet NP visitors’ center before heading off on an 11-km loop hike to iconic Wineglass Bay and beyond. There were lots of people making lots of noise as we started up the trail, but the crowd began to thin out as we climbed toward a pass in the Hazzards. At the pass a short trail led to the left where many people were gathered for the postcard view down to the beach at Wineglass Bay. Such colors and such perfect symmetry--not spoiled by the crowd of people.
From the pass a steep but well-maintained path took us down to bay, as the crowds thinned out substantially, and a flatter stretch led to the pristine pink and white sand beach. There are rocks at the northern end of the beach, and we found a spot where we could take in the splendid views for 30-40 minutes. We then walked a little way down the beach, wanting to go to end of the bay, but we still had 9 km to go on the loop trail so we retraced our steps and returned to the trail that leads across the isthmus to Hazzard Beach on the other side of the peninsula.
This section of the trail was fairly flat and took us through some nice bush country and across wetlands, with birdsong most of the way. The crowds were gone and only a few walkers remained. We walked up over a dune and down onto the long beach, which was covered with large shells of oysters, snails, and scallops. At the northern end we found what shade we could and sat on the rocks, taking in the views and rehydrating before we moved on to the rest of the hike. To this point the walk had been very enjoyable, as the scenery changed frequently and was often compelling. But we still had 6 km to go, and this last section proved both less interesting and more challenging, especially for me. But we persevered (no other choice!) as the now rougher trail tacked up and down, with only occasional views of the coast. We got back to the car park about 6 hours after we had left, but only about 5 hours (which was the official estimated time for the hike) of that involved actual walking.
Famished, we headed to Freycinet Marine Farm across from the entrance to the Eco Retreat to purchase fresh oysters, prawns, and a green salad with Vietnamese dressing for our dinner, which we enjoyed very much indeed, with a delicious local Milton pinot gris. A dozen wallabies gathered in our front forty, and again we enjoyed watching the sky change as we took in the view.
By the calendar, the next day was J’s 74th birthday, which suggested it was time for a kayak paddle. We drove down to Muir’s Beach to meet the kayak group, with 2 guides and 12 paddlers. We donned company-provided skirts and waterproof parkas and eased out into the bay in calm seas. From there we struck out across Coles Bay toward Parson’s Cove, the site of an old red granite quarrying operation about which the guides gave some interesting history. From here we paddled to Honeymoon Bay, where we beached the kayaks and shared hot drinks and a snack. Back in the water, we paddled along the coast to Freycinet Lodge as the wind picked up and the chop intensified. Vigorous headwinds and good chop slowed our progress back across the bay and around the headland, but it was a good trip, though probably only the third best of our six weeks down under, after two great paddles at Milford Sound and Abel Tasman in New Zealand.
After kayaking we drove over to the Trouville Lighthouse for a short loop walk around the light and along the coast. Then we made a stop in town at the bottle shop to purchase a nice birthday bottle—a Dalrymple 2014 pinot noir from the Piper’s Creek area of northern Tasmania. We returned to the Freycinet Marine Farm for abalone and prawns at the picnic tables and also purchased some things for dinner, including a dozen fresh oysters, a dozen fresh scallops, and a prepared salad. What an amazing resource for fresh seafood!
After some R&R in our cabin, we headed back out to the main highway and drove north to the turnoff for Friendly Beaches, which we followed for a couple of km to the beach parking lot. From there we took a nice long walk along the beach with its very fine-grained white sands, where the only other people we saw were surf fishing—what a nice scene. Just a few miles from Wineglass Bay, we had this lovely stretch of sand almost to ourselves, except for the fishing folks and an oyster catcher with two of her chicks cavorting in tide pools cut into the rocks. If you go to the Freycinet Peninsula, do look beyond the overcrowded (though spectacular) Wineglass Bay lookout and search out some of the other fine spots in the area.
As it was our last night in Freycinet, after dinner at the cabin we decided to go for a walk along the road up nearby Mt. Paul, in hopes that we would spot more wildlife (looking for echidna, Tasmanian devils, and perhaps a wombat or two—by now we were quite greedy). What we found were twenty or so wallabies clustered in our front forty but little else. However, we did experience a beautiful sunset and really enjoyed walking along the grassy track at dusk.
Next: back to Hobart for a farewell to Tasmania
Almost finished with this exceedingly long report...
COLES BAY/FREYCINET NP, Dec. 8-11
A great Bonney’s breakfast, made to order, stoked us for the long drive to the east coast. We drove around Launceston and onto the A-3, stopping in the village of Scottsdale where we shared cappuccini at The Cottage and purchased frozen curried scallop pies for our supper after we reached Freycinet. From here we drove through hilly farm country and great forests, including a myrtlewood forest, and thick ferns to St. Helens on the coast. From there we drove north along the lagoon and down to the southern end of the Bay of Fires at Binalong Bay. We had a delicious lunch at recommended Moresco overlooking the bay--excellent calamari and mixed seafood in a clear broth. Later we walked down to the bay and scrambled over red lichen-encrusted granite to view the stormy surf. It would have been great to spend more time at the Bay of Fires, but we still had a fair distance to go, so we got back in the car and headed south toward Bicheno. At least we got a glimpse of the Bay of Fires.
At Bicheno we stopped at the information center, a market, and a wine store for dinner essentials. Heading south, we turned off the main highway onto route 302 toward Coles Bay, then turned onto the gravel road that led a long ways up a steep hill (with several hopping wallaby sightings) to our lodgings for the next three nights at Freycinet Eco Retreat. We were greeted by the two owners, who live a distance away but still on the large property, and were told that we were the first guests in their new cabin complex on the hilltop (eight cabins arranged in an arc), which was opening to the public that very day.
Lodging: Freycinet Eco Retreat, http://www.freycinet.com/cabins/eco-studios, A$300 per night
Our cabin was on the small side, maybe 20’ by 10’, but very modern and well appointed, with a small fridge, two-burner stove, counter with stools for eating, and sliding glass doors onto a small platform with great views down to the Friendly. The views toward the Hazzards, in the other direction, were also beautiful. There were more electrical outlets in this cabin than anyplace else we've ever stayed--obviously it was wired for the modern traveler, though the wireless connection wasn't working in the cabins (since fixed, I believe).
Not long after we entered the cabin, J went out to the car to retrieve some items and a gust of wind through the open back sliders blew the front door of the cabin slammed shut. The door was fitted with an electronic lock, but when J entered the code it wouldn’t open. Nor could I open it from the inside--the locking mechanism was apparently stuck. Fortunately J was able to scramble up to the back platform, but for the rest of the day the back door was our only entrance and exit. For me, entering required standing on one of the outdoor chairs I had placed on the muddy ground. It was a minor irritation, made better by a wallaby visit and a gorgeous sunset. We enjoyed our scallop pies with a bottle of chardonnay and relished the pastel colored sky as evening turned to night.
The rising sun woke us up early, and after breakfast we headed down the hill after leaving a note for the owners about the door issue. In Coles Bay we reserved a kayak trip for the next day and then drove to the Freycinet NP visitors’ center before heading off on an 11-km loop hike to iconic Wineglass Bay and beyond. There were lots of people making lots of noise as we started up the trail, but the crowd began to thin out as we climbed toward a pass in the Hazzards. At the pass a short trail led to the left where many people were gathered for the postcard view down to the beach at Wineglass Bay. Such colors and such perfect symmetry--not spoiled by the crowd of people.
From the pass a steep but well-maintained path took us down to bay, as the crowds thinned out substantially, and a flatter stretch led to the pristine pink and white sand beach. There are rocks at the northern end of the beach, and we found a spot where we could take in the splendid views for 30-40 minutes. We then walked a little way down the beach, wanting to go to end of the bay, but we still had 9 km to go on the loop trail so we retraced our steps and returned to the trail that leads across the isthmus to Hazzard Beach on the other side of the peninsula.
This section of the trail was fairly flat and took us through some nice bush country and across wetlands, with birdsong most of the way. The crowds were gone and only a few walkers remained. We walked up over a dune and down onto the long beach, which was covered with large shells of oysters, snails, and scallops. At the northern end we found what shade we could and sat on the rocks, taking in the views and rehydrating before we moved on to the rest of the hike. To this point the walk had been very enjoyable, as the scenery changed frequently and was often compelling. But we still had 6 km to go, and this last section proved both less interesting and more challenging, especially for me. But we persevered (no other choice!) as the now rougher trail tacked up and down, with only occasional views of the coast. We got back to the car park about 6 hours after we had left, but only about 5 hours (which was the official estimated time for the hike) of that involved actual walking.
Famished, we headed to Freycinet Marine Farm across from the entrance to the Eco Retreat to purchase fresh oysters, prawns, and a green salad with Vietnamese dressing for our dinner, which we enjoyed very much indeed, with a delicious local Milton pinot gris. A dozen wallabies gathered in our front forty, and again we enjoyed watching the sky change as we took in the view.
By the calendar, the next day was J’s 74th birthday, which suggested it was time for a kayak paddle. We drove down to Muir’s Beach to meet the kayak group, with 2 guides and 12 paddlers. We donned company-provided skirts and waterproof parkas and eased out into the bay in calm seas. From there we struck out across Coles Bay toward Parson’s Cove, the site of an old red granite quarrying operation about which the guides gave some interesting history. From here we paddled to Honeymoon Bay, where we beached the kayaks and shared hot drinks and a snack. Back in the water, we paddled along the coast to Freycinet Lodge as the wind picked up and the chop intensified. Vigorous headwinds and good chop slowed our progress back across the bay and around the headland, but it was a good trip, though probably only the third best of our six weeks down under, after two great paddles at Milford Sound and Abel Tasman in New Zealand.
After kayaking we drove over to the Trouville Lighthouse for a short loop walk around the light and along the coast. Then we made a stop in town at the bottle shop to purchase a nice birthday bottle—a Dalrymple 2014 pinot noir from the Piper’s Creek area of northern Tasmania. We returned to the Freycinet Marine Farm for abalone and prawns at the picnic tables and also purchased some things for dinner, including a dozen fresh oysters, a dozen fresh scallops, and a prepared salad. What an amazing resource for fresh seafood!
After some R&R in our cabin, we headed back out to the main highway and drove north to the turnoff for Friendly Beaches, which we followed for a couple of km to the beach parking lot. From there we took a nice long walk along the beach with its very fine-grained white sands, where the only other people we saw were surf fishing—what a nice scene. Just a few miles from Wineglass Bay, we had this lovely stretch of sand almost to ourselves, except for the fishing folks and an oyster catcher with two of her chicks cavorting in tide pools cut into the rocks. If you go to the Freycinet Peninsula, do look beyond the overcrowded (though spectacular) Wineglass Bay lookout and search out some of the other fine spots in the area.
As it was our last night in Freycinet, after dinner at the cabin we decided to go for a walk along the road up nearby Mt. Paul, in hopes that we would spot more wildlife (looking for echidna, Tasmanian devils, and perhaps a wombat or two—by now we were quite greedy). What we found were twenty or so wallabies clustered in our front forty but little else. However, we did experience a beautiful sunset and really enjoyed walking along the grassy track at dusk.
Next: back to Hobart for a farewell to Tasmania
Apr 6th, 2016, 04:19 AM
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Glad you enjoyed your time at Freycinet. Sounds like there's enough hikes in which you could have spent more time. How did Freycinet compare to Cradle Mountain? For our upcoming trip, we chose Cradle over Freycinet, but really could have gone either way.
Apr 6th, 2016, 12:10 PM
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trip, that's a tough choice. Cradle has the wonderful wombats and other animals, good walking, and colorful mountain and meadow scenery (though not alpine). We really enjoyed it, though I wouldn't call it spectacular. Freycinet had the mountains, some animals, and the beautiful sea, and that circuit hike to Wineglass Bay and Hazzards Beach was amazing. I asked my husband which he would choose. At first he said Cradle Mountain, but ultimately he agreed with me--it would be Freycinet.
Apr 7th, 2016, 11:39 AM
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It was compact but had all the amenities one would want.
Pros: very modern; great bed (and a great view from the bed, overlooking the coast below); peninsula and stools separating bed from well-equipped kitchen; heated tile floor in the bathroom; wooden deck with lovely views; alignment ensures privacy from neighboring cottages even though they are very close together; breakfast supplies provided; nearby walking path up Mt. Paul, isolated from the tourist rush in the park
Cons: expensive; isolated; requires driving to get to the park or restaurants; very compact
We were quite happy there and would gladly return, though the location of Freycinet Lodge, which is right on the water and closer to the park, is very appealing so we might consider that instead.
Pros: very modern; great bed (and a great view from the bed, overlooking the coast below); peninsula and stools separating bed from well-equipped kitchen; heated tile floor in the bathroom; wooden deck with lovely views; alignment ensures privacy from neighboring cottages even though they are very close together; breakfast supplies provided; nearby walking path up Mt. Paul, isolated from the tourist rush in the park
Cons: expensive; isolated; requires driving to get to the park or restaurants; very compact
We were quite happy there and would gladly return, though the location of Freycinet Lodge, which is right on the water and closer to the park, is very appealing so we might consider that instead.
Apr 7th, 2016, 12:33 PM
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BACK TO HOBART, Dec. 11-13
The next morning we were on our way back to Hobart by 9 am, but we were in no hurry to get there. We left the cabin (the front door had been fixed so we didn't have to jump from deck) and tried to find a road that would let us see Moulting Lagoon close up, but to no avail. Our route took us to Route 3 where we tuned west, then south through some vineyards to the town of Swansea. We stopped there at the Bark Mill Bakery (adjacent to the old bark stripping mill), which had been recommended by people we met on the kayak trip. The roasted vegetable pie and outstanding coffees were very good. From there we drove south, with good views to the east, first of the Freycinet Peninsula and then of Maria Island. We wished we had had time to visit the latter, which has no cars and lots of wildlife, but once again there wasn’t enough time to do it all.
We soon spied the interesting Spikey Bridge, built by convicts in the mid-1800s using the local basalt, and we stopped for a better look. We took a short walk at Tribunna/Orford, after which the road turned inland through a basalt gorge. Eventually we took a shortcut on a mostly dirt but well-maintained road through Nugent, which saved more distance than time on our way back to the Tasman Peninsula and led us through charming countryside that I bet few tourists see.
Our goal for lunch was to have yet more seafood, this time in Doo Town at the Doo-Lishious food truck that had our bus driver had pointed out to use on the day we took the cruise to Tasman Island. It was parked, as always, in the parking lot for the blowhole, just south of Eagle’s Neck. They had fresh scallop pies, the best in Tasmania according to Lonely Planet, so we ordered one of those to eat while we waited for our fried seafood orders. The pie was very rich, had a real curry flavor, and contained plenty of plump scallops. Now we can say we’ve had an authentic Tassie scallop pie. Already satisfied, we then plunged into the main course: for me, delicious fish and chips, and for J, the fried seafood special (2 smaller pieces of fish, 6 fresh calamari rings, 3 scallops and 2 prawns) and another load of excellent chips. We ate what we could, but our seafood eyes were way too big for our stomachs.
Though stuffed to the gills, we were still able to complete a short walk that took in the barely active blowhole, an impressive sea arch, and a chasm with churning waves called the Devil’s Kitchen. From here we drove back into Hobart to complete our circle tour, arriving at the Grand Vue around 4 pm.
It was quite windy and a little showery when we headed down to Salamanca Place, where we purchased a set of 13 tiny Australian animals for our granddaughter—we’d seen them all, except the platypus--before heading to the grocery store to purchase a Devil’s Corner pinot noir and a few things to go with it. The weather became more unsettled and there was a bit of rain falling as the day came to an end. We realized yet again how fortunate we had been with the weather throughout our trip, both here and in New Zealand.
Next morning we awoke to blazing sunshine and a view of snow-covered Mt. Wellington. Time to go back down the Kelly Steps to the famous Saturday Salamanca Market. It turned out to be a much better than average market venue, with some very nice local goods for sale and several interesting food trucks. We walked the length of the market to get an idea of what we might wish to purchase, then took a detour into the park at the top to look at the burial monuments of famous early white settlers. Eventually we returned to a stall run by the author of a travel book called "The Long Hitch Home" (Hobart to London) and purchased his book, which he signed for us, along with a children’s book by his mother-in-law. Just as the author was signing his book a batch of angry-looking dark clouds approached rapidly from the direction of Mt. Wellington, threatening more showers. We quickly ducked into the artists’ center and managed to snare the last available table in the crowded Tricycle Café. We had great brunch of avocado and goat cheese on sourdough (for me) and scrambled eggs on sourdough (for J), along with tasty bloody Marys. The intense rain showers never materialized and it was dry as we headed back up the hill for a little R&R.
Soon we headed off to our second fun activity for the day: an international cricket test match being played at Hobart cricket grounds, across the river in Bellerive, between Australia and the West Indies. Seats were available at the gate for what was turning out to be a blowout in Australia's favor, so we drove over to the grounds, parked a few blocks away, and walked to the ticket office. The third day of the 4-day test was well under way, and the West Indies were in their second innings and in danger of not matching Australia’s first innings total. We purchased pretty good seats, just under the roof, as it was showery, and watched for about two hours, until the West Indies were eliminated, falling short by more than more than 150 runs. It was really fun, the crowd was relaxed (like those at an afternoon baseball game), and the guy next to us was more than willing to let me question him endlessly about what was going on. J knows a lot more about cricket than I do (an affinity picked up when we lived in England for a short time in the 1980s), but he enjoyed learning about some of the finer points of the game. We’ve finally seen a test match in person!
After the match we walked back along the beach to our car and then drove into cute Bellerive for a look around. The yacht club bar was humming and we had a nice walk up to the old defensive fortifications that were the twins to those on Battery Point. Back in Battery Point, we purchased tasty takeout vegetarian pizza from recommended Da Angelo (it was too crowded for us to snag seats), which we ate with a mainland shiraz. We packed carefully for the flight to Melbourne the next day and made some choices about what needed to be left behind so we could actually close our small bags.
Next: Melbourne (yes, this report thankfully does have an end)
The next morning we were on our way back to Hobart by 9 am, but we were in no hurry to get there. We left the cabin (the front door had been fixed so we didn't have to jump from deck) and tried to find a road that would let us see Moulting Lagoon close up, but to no avail. Our route took us to Route 3 where we tuned west, then south through some vineyards to the town of Swansea. We stopped there at the Bark Mill Bakery (adjacent to the old bark stripping mill), which had been recommended by people we met on the kayak trip. The roasted vegetable pie and outstanding coffees were very good. From there we drove south, with good views to the east, first of the Freycinet Peninsula and then of Maria Island. We wished we had had time to visit the latter, which has no cars and lots of wildlife, but once again there wasn’t enough time to do it all.
We soon spied the interesting Spikey Bridge, built by convicts in the mid-1800s using the local basalt, and we stopped for a better look. We took a short walk at Tribunna/Orford, after which the road turned inland through a basalt gorge. Eventually we took a shortcut on a mostly dirt but well-maintained road through Nugent, which saved more distance than time on our way back to the Tasman Peninsula and led us through charming countryside that I bet few tourists see.
Our goal for lunch was to have yet more seafood, this time in Doo Town at the Doo-Lishious food truck that had our bus driver had pointed out to use on the day we took the cruise to Tasman Island. It was parked, as always, in the parking lot for the blowhole, just south of Eagle’s Neck. They had fresh scallop pies, the best in Tasmania according to Lonely Planet, so we ordered one of those to eat while we waited for our fried seafood orders. The pie was very rich, had a real curry flavor, and contained plenty of plump scallops. Now we can say we’ve had an authentic Tassie scallop pie. Already satisfied, we then plunged into the main course: for me, delicious fish and chips, and for J, the fried seafood special (2 smaller pieces of fish, 6 fresh calamari rings, 3 scallops and 2 prawns) and another load of excellent chips. We ate what we could, but our seafood eyes were way too big for our stomachs.
Though stuffed to the gills, we were still able to complete a short walk that took in the barely active blowhole, an impressive sea arch, and a chasm with churning waves called the Devil’s Kitchen. From here we drove back into Hobart to complete our circle tour, arriving at the Grand Vue around 4 pm.
It was quite windy and a little showery when we headed down to Salamanca Place, where we purchased a set of 13 tiny Australian animals for our granddaughter—we’d seen them all, except the platypus--before heading to the grocery store to purchase a Devil’s Corner pinot noir and a few things to go with it. The weather became more unsettled and there was a bit of rain falling as the day came to an end. We realized yet again how fortunate we had been with the weather throughout our trip, both here and in New Zealand.
Next morning we awoke to blazing sunshine and a view of snow-covered Mt. Wellington. Time to go back down the Kelly Steps to the famous Saturday Salamanca Market. It turned out to be a much better than average market venue, with some very nice local goods for sale and several interesting food trucks. We walked the length of the market to get an idea of what we might wish to purchase, then took a detour into the park at the top to look at the burial monuments of famous early white settlers. Eventually we returned to a stall run by the author of a travel book called "The Long Hitch Home" (Hobart to London) and purchased his book, which he signed for us, along with a children’s book by his mother-in-law. Just as the author was signing his book a batch of angry-looking dark clouds approached rapidly from the direction of Mt. Wellington, threatening more showers. We quickly ducked into the artists’ center and managed to snare the last available table in the crowded Tricycle Café. We had great brunch of avocado and goat cheese on sourdough (for me) and scrambled eggs on sourdough (for J), along with tasty bloody Marys. The intense rain showers never materialized and it was dry as we headed back up the hill for a little R&R.
Soon we headed off to our second fun activity for the day: an international cricket test match being played at Hobart cricket grounds, across the river in Bellerive, between Australia and the West Indies. Seats were available at the gate for what was turning out to be a blowout in Australia's favor, so we drove over to the grounds, parked a few blocks away, and walked to the ticket office. The third day of the 4-day test was well under way, and the West Indies were in their second innings and in danger of not matching Australia’s first innings total. We purchased pretty good seats, just under the roof, as it was showery, and watched for about two hours, until the West Indies were eliminated, falling short by more than more than 150 runs. It was really fun, the crowd was relaxed (like those at an afternoon baseball game), and the guy next to us was more than willing to let me question him endlessly about what was going on. J knows a lot more about cricket than I do (an affinity picked up when we lived in England for a short time in the 1980s), but he enjoyed learning about some of the finer points of the game. We’ve finally seen a test match in person!
After the match we walked back along the beach to our car and then drove into cute Bellerive for a look around. The yacht club bar was humming and we had a nice walk up to the old defensive fortifications that were the twins to those on Battery Point. Back in Battery Point, we purchased tasty takeout vegetarian pizza from recommended Da Angelo (it was too crowded for us to snag seats), which we ate with a mainland shiraz. We packed carefully for the flight to Melbourne the next day and made some choices about what needed to be left behind so we could actually close our small bags.
Next: Melbourne (yes, this report thankfully does have an end)
Apr 26th, 2016, 08:49 PM
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Ah, I thought about giving up on finishing this long report, but I decide that one final post could bring it to completion. So here goes!
MELBOURNE, December 13-17
In the morning we drove to the airport to return our underpowered Hyundai and take a flight to Melbourne. The Europcar inspector found a scrape on the wheel casing that we did not cause and had not seen; we may eventually get charged for it anyway. We were not impressed with Europcar in Tasmania.
The flight to Melbourne was quick, and our bags were waiting for us on the carousel after a long walk to baggage claim. Blue Bus had a desk located conveniently next to baggage claim, but the round-trip bus ticket we purchased from them ended up being a mistake--we didn’t use the return portion because no one would answer the phone when we tried to contact the office to schedule our return trip, as instructed. Even on the route from the airport to downtown the bus driver didn’t quite know where our hotel was, but eventually we were dropped off in front of the Citadines on Bourke Street, where we had a roomy and efficient, if not romantic, apartment.
http://www.citadines.com.au/, 3 nights, US$144/night
The location was perfect, just a few blocks from Federation Square. After settling in we walked in the general direction of the square and down Hosier Lane, with its graffiti-mural covered walls, which we thought generally paled in comparison with those in San Francisco. At the end of the lane we saw the sign for Mo Vida, a well-known and highly recommended tapas bar, and walked in for a late lunch. It was nearly 2:00 so we were seated immediately. Both the tapas and the raciones were excellent: J loved the ancho, which consisted of a single anchovy and a few capers on a thin cracker with a spread of frozen salmon mousse; the combination of saltiness and rich sweetness with the intense cold worked perfectly. We shared a pickled vegetable mini brioche and a duck liver pate with sweet sauce sandwich, which was a tad too sweet for our tastes. The raciones were quail with pickled garlic, spring onions, and small peppers, and slow-cooked beef cheek done in sherry over pureed cauliflower. Both were superb and very filling. With plenty of wine, this wonderful meal cost only A$94.
After lunch we walked down to Federation Square and across the street to St. Paul’s Cathedral, where we just happened to walk in to the 3:00 Christmas service, held only twice each season. We sat for a decent interval and sang carols for the first time in a long while, before exiting back out onto the crowded street. From here we walked back over to the square, with its pre-Christmas Sunday crowds, and admired the classic Flinders Station and its bank of old clocks, a favorite meeting place in Melbourne. We spent some time looking at a fantastic holiday Lego sculpture, taking in the warmth of the sun, and just getting the lay of the land. We also went to the Information Center and signed up for a free guided walk the next morning. Then we walked some lanes and streets to do a bit of gift shopping. Finally, we stopped at a couple of shops to purchase groceries and wine. We loved the feel of the city and the buzz of Christmas season on the streets.
On our way to the I-Center in Federation Square the next morning we encountered fewer crowds, so we stopped to examine the Lego sculpture in more detail, spotting cricket-playing Lego elves and koalas among the decor. We then met up with the guide and four other tourists for what turned out to be a very informative four-hour walking tour that gave us a great introduction to the city center. The tour took us to the bridge over the Yarra River and then back to Flinders station, where the talkative guide reminisced about how he would meet his mother beneath the clocks. We headed under the main road and came up on a laneway known as DeGraves Lane, which is famous for its cafes and coffee houses. We jogged onto another laneway and ducked into the Block Arcade, with its up-scale shops. A little later walked through the Royal Arcade, which has a famous clock and is home to various purveyors since 1869, including a chocolatier, a French patisserie, a store selling only babushka dolls, antique shops, jewelers, and toy stores. In between we walked laneways and main streets, entered old bank buildings and hotel lobbies with wonderful tiled floors and carved and/or painted ceilings, and looked at the Christmas windows at Myers Department Store. Eventually we took a free tram up to the Parliament Building and had coffee and snacks next door to the historic Princess Theater. Afterward we walked down through Chinatown, then over to Bourke Steet and past Peligrini’s Cafe, which had the first expresso machine in Melbourne. Our route then took us east on Flinders Lane to visit an opal merchant and to see the street art/graffiti again at Hosier Lane. We continued eastward to visit two other laneways with abundant street art, including a couple of small graffiti by Banksy.
We finally left the group at Federation Square and head back up to Flinders Lane to have a late lunch at an Asian fusion place called Chin Chin. This may have been the best lunch of the trip (Mo Vida close), with superb calamari squares to dip in a spicy chili sauce, Vietnamese-style spring rolls, and an amazingly good rendition of beef rendang, which was rich and spicy. This was good enough that we thought we might go back again, but we never made it.
Well sated, we took the free tram that loops around the central district, up to the Parliament building, out past the docklands, and along the river back to Federation Square. Love the free transit in the city center! We then visited the Ian Potter Center for Australian Art, where some of the exhibits left us unmoved but the nineteenth-century exhibits contained some really lovely works. Finally we headed back to the hotel and cooked a light dinner in our apartment’s kitchen.
Our morning destination the next day was Peligrini’s cafe but instead we were drawn to Salvation next door for fine cappuccini and a shared order of sourdough toast with cashew butter. The place had a really nice vibe. Then we walked down Bourke to the classic bookstore Hill of Content, located on a corner just down from our hotel. This shop felt like a throwback from the heyday of bookstores. The selections were great and we purchased two books for our granddaughter--one about the revenge of the crayons (with postcards written to the boy who had treated them with less care than they deserved) and another about an aboriginal girl in the outback who loved the books brought occasionally by the library train. We went back to the hotel to drop off our purchases before heading across the Yarra River Bridge to begin our exploration of the south bank.
The area we explored is devoted to parkland. We meandered through an area that contained a large memorial to Queen Victoria and the surrounding gardens, then visited smaller memorials to Edward VII and George V. The Governor’s House and the surrounding gardens were off-limits, so we skirted them to go to the Shrine of Remembrance. Initially constructed to honor WWI veterans, it now honors all Australian war veterans, especially those who died in service to the country. It is an imposing structure, surrounded by steep steps, a little reminiscent of those at the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, DC. The interior contains several displays, and the staff on site were both courteous and helpful in explaining what we were seeing. Eventually we took the stairs to the top level and were rewarded with fine views over the park and back to the city center. It’s hard to leave such a place without brooding on the waste of war.
We crossed over a park road to the Observatory for refreshments and then entered the Botanical Gardens. There were ponds, great old trees, and grassy open spaces, but we didn’t think it quite measured up on this warm day to the garden we had enjoyed in Christchurch in November. We walked back through the garden to the bridge and into central Melbourne.
We were beginning to figure out the excellent tram system, so were able to take a free tram to Chinatown, where we intended to have another late lunch at Hutong Dumpling, which we had seen on our walking tour. We entered just 20 minutes before the kitchen closed but had a delicious meal of steamed buns, prawn dumplings, rice, and an outstanding main course of scallops and eggplant in a rich, dark sauce. A bit leg-weary after our walk in warm weather, we went back to the hotel for some R&R, then purchased a couple of Myki cards at a convenience store and put enough funds on them to take a trip south to the sea at St. Kilda.
Riding through the suburban neighborhoods of Melbourne gave us another perspective on this great city. St. Kilda, however, seemed a bit worn, reminding us of an older British coastal resort town, or maybe even Coney Island in New York. We walked the main thoroughfare but found it somewhat seedy, then headed toward the busy beach where we found a Luna Park. We learned that the original Luna Park was on Coney Island, and that the one in St. Kilda (1909) predated the one we had seen in Sydney. From there we walked along the esplanade behind the beach to the long pier and breakwater (where penguins come ashore at dusk) and then on to Fitzroy Street for drinks on the front patio of a small pub. We were glad we went out to St. Kilda but wouldn’t go again--just not our style. We returned to the city and looked more closely at the Christmas displays in the windows of the Myer department store, then headed back to our hotel for dinner cooked in our little kitchen.
The last full day of our trip took us back to Salvation for a light breakfast and then on to Federation Square via Exhibition, Flinders Lane, and Collins Street. There we saw a parade of graduating students from the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology walking down Collins to the Ian Potter Art Complex for a ceremony. We, on the other hand, continued across the Yarra Bridge to the National Gallery of Victoria, where the current exhibition featured a large number of works by Andy Warhol and Ai Wei Wei. The multimedia exhibits were excellent and the building they were housed in was also spectacular. The exhibits included painting, photos, silk screens, sculptures, videos, movies, TV, music and Lego. They were kid friendly as well, and children of all ages were enjoying the museum experience. In addition, there was a lovely open space behind the museum, again with lots of kids playing. We took a few minutes to go upstairs to see the Impressionist exhibit and some tenth-century works as well. The whole experience of this museum was a real pleasure.
We had made arrangements to have lunch a woman we had hiked with on the Routeburn Track in New Zealand in November, so we headed down an alley to meet her at the Peruvian restaurant Pastuso. We both ordered our first pisco sours since we were in South America last spring—very good indeed. The two ceviches (prawn and red snapper), salad, quinoa, and tamales we shared were also very good. The only drawback was the combination of a large table and a very noisy room, which made it difficult to converse and had us all shouting a bit. But we had a good time nonetheless.
Later we took the free tram to the Victoria night market, which has dozens of food stalls on Wednesday nights serving a wide range of food from around the world. We shared char siuo bao, chicken satay/barbecued pork on a stick, and Thai rice, accompanied by tasty sangria. The market was crowded with people and not very clean, but it gave us another perspective on the city. We were glad we went but would have had a far better meal in the city center.
In the morning we packed up got ready to leave for the airport. We tried to contact the Blue Bus service, but even the front desk of the hotel was unsuccessful so we had them call a taxi to take us to the airport. The price was not much more than we had already paid for the Blue Bus, so we definitely made a mistake booking a return with them. I recommend avoiding the Blue Bus for airport transportation.
Once at the airport, we checked through quickly and looked around for a breakfast place. We eventually ferreted out a branch of the Mo Vida-affiliated Bar Pulpo, a great find. The fourteen-hour flight home on United was uneventful and the extra leg room in Economy Plus that we had purchased (our tickets were otherwise free with our frequent-flyer miles) was helpful. We stopped over in Los Angeles for a few days to visit our son and his family before flying home to San Francisco.
So, at the start of this saga I asked a few questions, and I’m happy to finally provide my answers: The Great Ocean Road was well worth the time we spent there, even though we are spoiled by the coastal beauty along California’s Highway 1 (I never get tired of gorgeous coastline!). Tasmania was NOT a disappointment after the South Island—though not as physically dramatic, its charm, beauty, and abundance of animal life made it a fantastic place to visit. And Melbourne is a strong contender for most interesting city in Australia, right up there with Sydney, with a great food culture. All in all, our six-week trip to southern New Zealand and southern Australia was one of the best trips we’ve ever taken.
MELBOURNE, December 13-17
In the morning we drove to the airport to return our underpowered Hyundai and take a flight to Melbourne. The Europcar inspector found a scrape on the wheel casing that we did not cause and had not seen; we may eventually get charged for it anyway. We were not impressed with Europcar in Tasmania.
The flight to Melbourne was quick, and our bags were waiting for us on the carousel after a long walk to baggage claim. Blue Bus had a desk located conveniently next to baggage claim, but the round-trip bus ticket we purchased from them ended up being a mistake--we didn’t use the return portion because no one would answer the phone when we tried to contact the office to schedule our return trip, as instructed. Even on the route from the airport to downtown the bus driver didn’t quite know where our hotel was, but eventually we were dropped off in front of the Citadines on Bourke Street, where we had a roomy and efficient, if not romantic, apartment.
http://www.citadines.com.au/, 3 nights, US$144/night
The location was perfect, just a few blocks from Federation Square. After settling in we walked in the general direction of the square and down Hosier Lane, with its graffiti-mural covered walls, which we thought generally paled in comparison with those in San Francisco. At the end of the lane we saw the sign for Mo Vida, a well-known and highly recommended tapas bar, and walked in for a late lunch. It was nearly 2:00 so we were seated immediately. Both the tapas and the raciones were excellent: J loved the ancho, which consisted of a single anchovy and a few capers on a thin cracker with a spread of frozen salmon mousse; the combination of saltiness and rich sweetness with the intense cold worked perfectly. We shared a pickled vegetable mini brioche and a duck liver pate with sweet sauce sandwich, which was a tad too sweet for our tastes. The raciones were quail with pickled garlic, spring onions, and small peppers, and slow-cooked beef cheek done in sherry over pureed cauliflower. Both were superb and very filling. With plenty of wine, this wonderful meal cost only A$94.
After lunch we walked down to Federation Square and across the street to St. Paul’s Cathedral, where we just happened to walk in to the 3:00 Christmas service, held only twice each season. We sat for a decent interval and sang carols for the first time in a long while, before exiting back out onto the crowded street. From here we walked back over to the square, with its pre-Christmas Sunday crowds, and admired the classic Flinders Station and its bank of old clocks, a favorite meeting place in Melbourne. We spent some time looking at a fantastic holiday Lego sculpture, taking in the warmth of the sun, and just getting the lay of the land. We also went to the Information Center and signed up for a free guided walk the next morning. Then we walked some lanes and streets to do a bit of gift shopping. Finally, we stopped at a couple of shops to purchase groceries and wine. We loved the feel of the city and the buzz of Christmas season on the streets.
On our way to the I-Center in Federation Square the next morning we encountered fewer crowds, so we stopped to examine the Lego sculpture in more detail, spotting cricket-playing Lego elves and koalas among the decor. We then met up with the guide and four other tourists for what turned out to be a very informative four-hour walking tour that gave us a great introduction to the city center. The tour took us to the bridge over the Yarra River and then back to Flinders station, where the talkative guide reminisced about how he would meet his mother beneath the clocks. We headed under the main road and came up on a laneway known as DeGraves Lane, which is famous for its cafes and coffee houses. We jogged onto another laneway and ducked into the Block Arcade, with its up-scale shops. A little later walked through the Royal Arcade, which has a famous clock and is home to various purveyors since 1869, including a chocolatier, a French patisserie, a store selling only babushka dolls, antique shops, jewelers, and toy stores. In between we walked laneways and main streets, entered old bank buildings and hotel lobbies with wonderful tiled floors and carved and/or painted ceilings, and looked at the Christmas windows at Myers Department Store. Eventually we took a free tram up to the Parliament Building and had coffee and snacks next door to the historic Princess Theater. Afterward we walked down through Chinatown, then over to Bourke Steet and past Peligrini’s Cafe, which had the first expresso machine in Melbourne. Our route then took us east on Flinders Lane to visit an opal merchant and to see the street art/graffiti again at Hosier Lane. We continued eastward to visit two other laneways with abundant street art, including a couple of small graffiti by Banksy.
We finally left the group at Federation Square and head back up to Flinders Lane to have a late lunch at an Asian fusion place called Chin Chin. This may have been the best lunch of the trip (Mo Vida close), with superb calamari squares to dip in a spicy chili sauce, Vietnamese-style spring rolls, and an amazingly good rendition of beef rendang, which was rich and spicy. This was good enough that we thought we might go back again, but we never made it.
Well sated, we took the free tram that loops around the central district, up to the Parliament building, out past the docklands, and along the river back to Federation Square. Love the free transit in the city center! We then visited the Ian Potter Center for Australian Art, where some of the exhibits left us unmoved but the nineteenth-century exhibits contained some really lovely works. Finally we headed back to the hotel and cooked a light dinner in our apartment’s kitchen.
Our morning destination the next day was Peligrini’s cafe but instead we were drawn to Salvation next door for fine cappuccini and a shared order of sourdough toast with cashew butter. The place had a really nice vibe. Then we walked down Bourke to the classic bookstore Hill of Content, located on a corner just down from our hotel. This shop felt like a throwback from the heyday of bookstores. The selections were great and we purchased two books for our granddaughter--one about the revenge of the crayons (with postcards written to the boy who had treated them with less care than they deserved) and another about an aboriginal girl in the outback who loved the books brought occasionally by the library train. We went back to the hotel to drop off our purchases before heading across the Yarra River Bridge to begin our exploration of the south bank.
The area we explored is devoted to parkland. We meandered through an area that contained a large memorial to Queen Victoria and the surrounding gardens, then visited smaller memorials to Edward VII and George V. The Governor’s House and the surrounding gardens were off-limits, so we skirted them to go to the Shrine of Remembrance. Initially constructed to honor WWI veterans, it now honors all Australian war veterans, especially those who died in service to the country. It is an imposing structure, surrounded by steep steps, a little reminiscent of those at the Lincoln Memorial in Washington, DC. The interior contains several displays, and the staff on site were both courteous and helpful in explaining what we were seeing. Eventually we took the stairs to the top level and were rewarded with fine views over the park and back to the city center. It’s hard to leave such a place without brooding on the waste of war.
We crossed over a park road to the Observatory for refreshments and then entered the Botanical Gardens. There were ponds, great old trees, and grassy open spaces, but we didn’t think it quite measured up on this warm day to the garden we had enjoyed in Christchurch in November. We walked back through the garden to the bridge and into central Melbourne.
We were beginning to figure out the excellent tram system, so were able to take a free tram to Chinatown, where we intended to have another late lunch at Hutong Dumpling, which we had seen on our walking tour. We entered just 20 minutes before the kitchen closed but had a delicious meal of steamed buns, prawn dumplings, rice, and an outstanding main course of scallops and eggplant in a rich, dark sauce. A bit leg-weary after our walk in warm weather, we went back to the hotel for some R&R, then purchased a couple of Myki cards at a convenience store and put enough funds on them to take a trip south to the sea at St. Kilda.
Riding through the suburban neighborhoods of Melbourne gave us another perspective on this great city. St. Kilda, however, seemed a bit worn, reminding us of an older British coastal resort town, or maybe even Coney Island in New York. We walked the main thoroughfare but found it somewhat seedy, then headed toward the busy beach where we found a Luna Park. We learned that the original Luna Park was on Coney Island, and that the one in St. Kilda (1909) predated the one we had seen in Sydney. From there we walked along the esplanade behind the beach to the long pier and breakwater (where penguins come ashore at dusk) and then on to Fitzroy Street for drinks on the front patio of a small pub. We were glad we went out to St. Kilda but wouldn’t go again--just not our style. We returned to the city and looked more closely at the Christmas displays in the windows of the Myer department store, then headed back to our hotel for dinner cooked in our little kitchen.
The last full day of our trip took us back to Salvation for a light breakfast and then on to Federation Square via Exhibition, Flinders Lane, and Collins Street. There we saw a parade of graduating students from the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology walking down Collins to the Ian Potter Art Complex for a ceremony. We, on the other hand, continued across the Yarra Bridge to the National Gallery of Victoria, where the current exhibition featured a large number of works by Andy Warhol and Ai Wei Wei. The multimedia exhibits were excellent and the building they were housed in was also spectacular. The exhibits included painting, photos, silk screens, sculptures, videos, movies, TV, music and Lego. They were kid friendly as well, and children of all ages were enjoying the museum experience. In addition, there was a lovely open space behind the museum, again with lots of kids playing. We took a few minutes to go upstairs to see the Impressionist exhibit and some tenth-century works as well. The whole experience of this museum was a real pleasure.
We had made arrangements to have lunch a woman we had hiked with on the Routeburn Track in New Zealand in November, so we headed down an alley to meet her at the Peruvian restaurant Pastuso. We both ordered our first pisco sours since we were in South America last spring—very good indeed. The two ceviches (prawn and red snapper), salad, quinoa, and tamales we shared were also very good. The only drawback was the combination of a large table and a very noisy room, which made it difficult to converse and had us all shouting a bit. But we had a good time nonetheless.
Later we took the free tram to the Victoria night market, which has dozens of food stalls on Wednesday nights serving a wide range of food from around the world. We shared char siuo bao, chicken satay/barbecued pork on a stick, and Thai rice, accompanied by tasty sangria. The market was crowded with people and not very clean, but it gave us another perspective on the city. We were glad we went but would have had a far better meal in the city center.
In the morning we packed up got ready to leave for the airport. We tried to contact the Blue Bus service, but even the front desk of the hotel was unsuccessful so we had them call a taxi to take us to the airport. The price was not much more than we had already paid for the Blue Bus, so we definitely made a mistake booking a return with them. I recommend avoiding the Blue Bus for airport transportation.
Once at the airport, we checked through quickly and looked around for a breakfast place. We eventually ferreted out a branch of the Mo Vida-affiliated Bar Pulpo, a great find. The fourteen-hour flight home on United was uneventful and the extra leg room in Economy Plus that we had purchased (our tickets were otherwise free with our frequent-flyer miles) was helpful. We stopped over in Los Angeles for a few days to visit our son and his family before flying home to San Francisco.
So, at the start of this saga I asked a few questions, and I’m happy to finally provide my answers: The Great Ocean Road was well worth the time we spent there, even though we are spoiled by the coastal beauty along California’s Highway 1 (I never get tired of gorgeous coastline!). Tasmania was NOT a disappointment after the South Island—though not as physically dramatic, its charm, beauty, and abundance of animal life made it a fantastic place to visit. And Melbourne is a strong contender for most interesting city in Australia, right up there with Sydney, with a great food culture. All in all, our six-week trip to southern New Zealand and southern Australia was one of the best trips we’ve ever taken.
Apr 28th, 2016, 09:01 AM
#32
So glad you finished your TR. I'm sure your entire TR will be invaluable as I continue our planning. Thank you!
Timewise - how much time would you allot to Tasmania and to Melbourne? We have 6 weeks in AUS so are pretty flexible with how much where.
Timewise - how much time would you allot to Tasmania and to Melbourne? We have 6 weeks in AUS so are pretty flexible with how much where.
Apr 28th, 2016, 09:12 AM
#33
I've only managed to find time to read the first half of your delightful TR apillilacs, but I'll be back for more; apart from being a really good read it's giving me lots of ideas for a 2nd trip down under.
Apr 28th, 2016, 04:16 PM
#36
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Thanks to all of you for reading along--that must have been hard work.
Mel, we've done a sunny, warm Christmas several times, including a wonderful time in the South Pacific one year as part of an around-the-world trip, so we knew what to expect. I do find it a bit harder to get in the holiday spirit when it's clearly summertime, but Melbourne certainly goes all out to decorate for the holidays, so they are trying their best!
yestravel--we thought two weeks was a good amount of time in Tasmania, though we easily could have spent longer (I definitely wouldn't spend less than 10 days there). And 4 days was enough in Melbourne, though you would want more if you are planning to add a few days on the Great Ocean Road (maybe 6 days altogether). On our first trip to Australia, in May/June 2008, we divided our time as follows: Sydney, 5 days; Perth/Fremantle 3 days; southwestern Australia (from Yallingup to Albany), 5 days; Uluru/Kata Jutu, 3 days; Darwin/Kakadu/Litchfield, 7 days; Cairns/Atherton Tablelands/Daintree, 7 days; Hinchinbrook Island 3 days. We were happy with that allotment too. With 6 weeks you can see a lot of Australia's highlights, depending on how much you want to move around.
Mel, we've done a sunny, warm Christmas several times, including a wonderful time in the South Pacific one year as part of an around-the-world trip, so we knew what to expect. I do find it a bit harder to get in the holiday spirit when it's clearly summertime, but Melbourne certainly goes all out to decorate for the holidays, so they are trying their best!
yestravel--we thought two weeks was a good amount of time in Tasmania, though we easily could have spent longer (I definitely wouldn't spend less than 10 days there). And 4 days was enough in Melbourne, though you would want more if you are planning to add a few days on the Great Ocean Road (maybe 6 days altogether). On our first trip to Australia, in May/June 2008, we divided our time as follows: Sydney, 5 days; Perth/Fremantle 3 days; southwestern Australia (from Yallingup to Albany), 5 days; Uluru/Kata Jutu, 3 days; Darwin/Kakadu/Litchfield, 7 days; Cairns/Atherton Tablelands/Daintree, 7 days; Hinchinbrook Island 3 days. We were happy with that allotment too. With 6 weeks you can see a lot of Australia's highlights, depending on how much you want to move around.
Apr 29th, 2016, 12:41 AM
#37
wow. made it. What a great TR, and thank you so much for all the detail. We love looking at wildlife so Tassie would be a very good fit for us I think, and Melbourne and the GOR look terrific too.
not sure when such a trip might happen but it will lodge at the back of my head and hopefully progress from there!
not sure when such a trip might happen but it will lodge at the back of my head and hopefully progress from there!
Apr 29th, 2016, 10:41 AM
#38
Great TR -- thanks for the info on your time frames in AUST. That's always one of the hardest parts for me with a trip -- how long to stay each place, so others experiences are helpful. We likely will try to avoid the north due to the heat.
Apr 30th, 2016, 09:26 PM
#39
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A great read aprillilacs. Europcar are well known for their dodgy practises, and were exposed on national TV. They tried it with me once. Keep on their case and insist on them reversing any extra charge. It took about 4 months, but I did get fully refunded.
Thanks for your report, most helpful as I hope to visit Tassie later this year.
Thanks for your report, most helpful as I hope to visit Tassie later this year.
Feb 9th, 2017, 10:02 PM
#40
Hi! I am still checking in on your report. We really liked the Grand Vue and Cradle Mt. Highlander's. We are currently in Coles Bay and will check back for your Melbourne activities as we go there Sunday. Hope all is well with you both.
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