We are partway through our trip to the South Island, NZ, and I’ll post a report as I go.

It’s 26 nights and we are following a standard, first timers itinerary.

Read several trip reports and answers to questions on both Fodor’s and TripAdvisor NZ forums - excellent advice on best routing, realistic driving times and scenic stops between bases, scarcity of accommodation in Mt Cook (so booked well ahead), grateful thanks to all who contribute to these forums.

Qantas : Adelaide at 6 am, Melbourne to Christchurch arr about 3 pm

Our 26 night itinerary:

Christchurch 1N

Punakaiki 3N

Fox Glacier 4N

Wanaka 4N

Te Anau 4N

Queenstown 4N

Aoraki Mt Cook 4N

Christchurch 2N


Chose March for weather, not school holidays, and not Easter this year.

Journey planner for road trip https://www.aa.co.nz/travel/time-and...ce-calculator/ for road conditions/ closures, travel time, petrol stations,

Weather https://www.metservice.com

Road conditions https://www.nzta.govt.nz/traffic-and...l-information/

Day 1: Travel to Christchurch



Flight-

Qantas from Adelaide, depart 6 am - via Sydney - Christchurch arr 3:25 pm

Up at 3 am, as Qantas suggested passengers be at airport at 4 am for a 6 am departure.

So naturally we slept little, had no traffic at that hour of the day, zipped through bag drop and security in 10 minutes and twiddled our thumbs for 90 minutes, but, still..

this was the easiest overseas trip ever.

Short flight to Sydney.

Transfer by shuttle bus to international terminal.

3 hour flight to Christchurch.









A small airport, easy to navigate, 10 minutes to pick up bags and exit.

Shuttle to Apex car hire office and pick up vehicle.

Easy driving into Christchurch on a Sunday afternoon.



Accommodation is at The Grange BnB, (NZ $259) a grand old house near the Botanic Gardens. Parking is off street. Very nice bnb and location.








Walked 5 mins to Fiddlesticks for an excellent dinner (beef fillet, Rosti, brocollini, fried chicken, fries, wine, beer) NZ $145 with a post dinner Botanic Garden stroll on this mild and sunny day.

What a lovely city, the gardens are gorgeous, we passed lovingly restored homes, and interesting modern architecture. It’s so tidy and well kept.
We only walked the 4 blocks around our bnb and already I loved Christchurch.
























Arts centre complex https://www.christchurchnz.com/explo...he-arts-centre


https://www.ravenscarhouse.com house museum:




Art gallery next to restaurant https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz

The devastation of the earthquakes Christchurch earthquake https://nzhistory.govt.nz/page/chris...uake-kills-185

And the Cathedral rebuild update https://www.rnz.co.nz/news/national/...n-over-for-now



the botanic gardens :

Day 2: Christchurch to Punakaiki






Weather : Clear and warm in Christchurch, cloudy then rain at Arthur’s Pass, cloudy in Punakaiki.

After breakfast, we had an hour before checkout to revisit the Christchurch Botanic Gardens, the dahlia beds are lovely in March, and the gardens will need more exploring when we loop back at the end of our trip, as we have 2 nights in Christchurch then.

Drive Christchurch to west coast (Punakaiki) takes 4 hrs with no stops, travel forum DE’s suggest to allow 6 hours for usual stops (we took 7 as we shopped at Greymouth)


Left Christchurch at 10 am, it was easy driving to exit the city, and pleasant farmland en route, stopping at the Sheffield pie shop for an early lunch, beating the lunchtime crush.


Then on to Kura Tawhiti / Castle Hill rocks, allowing an hour or so to explore.




Incredible.

Do not miss this, it looks interesting from the carpark, but the scale of it is so much more dramatic when walking between the eroded boulders.

A great stretch of legs, good path, fascinating rock formations.

There is a toilet at the carpark.

Left about 1.30 pm


The car park at Castle Hill


Easy walk




















Back to the parking area


It was raining after Arthur’s Pass, and we were a little time poor, so we did not stop at Devil’s Punchbowl.









Driving notes : Good road. Mostly single lane bridges - slow down and keep back, even if your direction has ‘right of way’ another vehicle may already be approaching bridge, and trucks have less ability to swerve when you are too close



Really lovely scenery. Thickly forested mountains. First sighting of tree ferns. And the road soon hits the coast.




Stopped at Greymouth on the way for grocery supplies at the New World, an impressively large store with good quality fruit and veg, and meat choices.

And free, clean toilets!

No shopping in Punakaiki, but there are a few cafes and restaurants. We self catered meals.

The road north is spectacular, with just a few roadside areas to stop - the sea stacks and the road hugging the coastal mountains is really dramatic.



Have a 3 night stay in Punakaiki, at the Hydrangea Cottages (we chose the upstairs Rata suite)
4224 Main Rd, Punakaiki (NZ $915)



View from deck








https://www.pancake-rocks.co.nz/rata-suite

https://www.pancake-rocks.co.nz/region-info



Very nice apartment, with an adequate kitchenette and given we requested the portable bbq we were able to enjoy a nice dinner of bbq lamb chops, stir fried veg, potato. With a nice bottle of NZ Pinot Gris. I always appreciate the extras in an apartment, like books and a selection of tea/ coffee.
Really nice property, and impeccably maintained and clean. Highly recommend.

Huge tree ferns surround the accommodation and can see glimpses of the sea between fronds.



Punakaiki is wedged on a sliver of rainforest at edge of a hillside and the sea. Spectacular setting.

Makes a good base for a few days :

https://punakaiki.co.nz/walks-old/

https://hikingscenery.com/nz-west-coast-short-walks/

Kia ora. What a spectacular start to your South Island trip. I wish you a wonderful month filled with memorable experiences. Look forward to following along with you.

Day 3: Punakaiki

Forecast : cloudy, then sunny patches later 18C max



We decided to have a sleep in and have a gentle day visiting the nearby local sights (Pancake Rocks, Pororari lookout, Truman Track, and a short drive north)

We didn’t venture up to Cape Foulwind which was our original plan - The walkway and Cape Tauranga seal viewing, and Mitchell’s Gully Gold Mine (take $10 pp cash and a torch if visiting)

It is cloudy, windless, and a bit cooler.

Long sleeve shirt, and sandfly repellent on.

Today we visited-

Pancake Rocks is the 45 min boardwalk to view the layered limestone rock formations and coast, it really is well done, with several viewpoints and natural wonders (cliffs, blowholes, ravines, sea stacks, sea coves)

The site is very busy with tourists, good parking, a cafe, shop, we stopped for ice cream.







A blow hole




Another blow hole


Stunning coast




We missed the Punakaiki cavern, which is nearby (take a torch).


Slightly north of Punakaiki is the Truman track (a 20 min walk), this is so lovely, thick forest, mosses, tall tree ferns and tiny ferns, huge trees, nikau palms, then the coastal flax, and the beach.


























Further north we stopped at Fox River and a few lookouts.














We walked from Pororari carpark to the lookout, an easy and pretty 20 min track one way.
There is a longer option, or the loop track.







For those heading even further north, as per our original plan :



Cape Foulwind:

Drive to Tauranga Bay (car park has toilets), it’s 15 min to seal colony lookout,- can continue on along the Cape Foulwind walkway to the lighthouse.



https://awaywiththesteiners.com/cape-foulwind/

https://hikingscenery.com/cape-foulw...oogle_vignette

https://www.tripideas.nz/hokitika-to-westport

https://www.doc.govt.nz/globalassets...aiki-walks.pdf

caving options https://caverafting.com/

coal mining history Denniston https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Attra...th_Island.html

Thanks, tripplanner.

It’s been a fabulous intro to the wonders of NZ!

I love the big drama stuff, but also the little things (the tiny ferns, and mosses)


Day 4: Punakaiki

Forecast sunny, 21C

10C when we got up at 7 am. Nice to feel cool, Adelaide has been so hot and dry.

Had checked the low tide forecaster (9:40 am) and planned to leave before 8 am (20 min drive south of Punakaiki past Barrytown) to optimise timing for the walk to the sea stacks at Motukiekie Beach.

Parked on a layby roadside (near the Kararoa sign, where there is beach access) and walked about 30 minutes, as the area closer to stacks are steep cliffs without access.

Ideally begin walk about 90 min before low tide, to get some time to explore.

Can’t walk the beach at high tide.

It was still in shadow until the morning sun cleared the cliffs.


Beach still in shadow when we arrived


Beautiful rockpools


It was actually really windy





Fascinating geology



More rockpools!




Reflections created a nice mirror effect








holiday shacks




the cliffs are starting to lighten up


School kids exploring later in morning, gives some context to size of sea stacks


https://www.zigzagonearth.com/motuki...h-new-zealand/

https://motorcamps.com/content/motukiekie-beach-walk

https://www.intrepidlife.com/motukiekie-beach-walk/ they clamboured down the cliff, but it’s easier from the beach

My photos are deceiving, there was a ferocious wind and it was gusty, so took photos and explored rockpools when wind dropped.

Have seen photos of low tide and windless day, looked like could walk around the sea stacks.

We spent about 2 hours wandering, without getting as far as the stacks themselves. A really stunning beach, the forested limestone cliffs, the rockpools, the layers of ancient rock, the thumping waves.



Unfortunately, another vehicle clipped our parked hire car while we were on the beach, we had parked in a wide lay-by but those that don’t anticipate the turn in swerve too sharply at speed.

We had checked out the parking options on our drive up from Greymouth, so were prepared.



The next photos are from the Punakaiki river area, where the Punakaiki - Pororari River Loop walk can start / end, and Razorback Point later in the day (near our accommodation)









We did not visit Coal Creek Falls, but was a maybe on my ‘to do’ list.

From my notes :

It is just a few streets off the main road in the little town of Runanga.
From Greymouth, head 10 minutes north on State Highway 6 (Seven Mile Road) Turn right into Seddon Street, right into Fraser Street and follow the road as it turns into Ballance Street. You will find the Coal Creek Falls track at the end of the Ballance Street cul de sac. There are a few parks here, or just park on the road side if it is busy.

lovely photos.

Day 5: Punakaiki travel day to Fox Glacier township


Sunny day today.

leaving Punakaiki and a last look at the sea stacks


lots of haze





Map :



250 km supposedly 3:5 hours non stop to Fox but shopped in Greymouth for supplies and petrol, and visited Hokitika gorge.

Add 30 min each way for the drive in and out from Hokitika, plus 90 min for the walk.

So we anticipated about 6 -7 hours

We had a packed lunch and planned the Hokitika gorge walk (90 min return)

The 30 minute drive from Hokitika town into the gorge area is pretty, picturesque farmland and approaching mountains.









Good car parking and toilets at the site. Lots of campervans.

https://westcoast.co.nz/visit/discov...okitika-gorge/

This is a popular walk, we heard many languages spoken.

A very well maintained track, easy walking, some boardwalks and suspension bridges, and just stunning.

Turquoise river colour, the forest walk, it’s all so gorgeous.
















Our picnic lunch! Perfect spot.








We ate our picnic lunch on the rocky outcrop at the riverside.

Had my sandfly repellant on and long sleeve shirt. No bites.



Return drive the same route, passing through Hokitika which looks a nice town.

Hokitika town to Fox took 3 hours (roadworks)











Nice driving, skirts coast and farmland, distant mountain range, then into lush forest and twisting, hillside roads.
Passed through Franz Josef, which was buzzing, lots of people at cafes, car parks full, looks a nice town though.

Another 30 minutes of twisty road to much smaller and quieter Fox Glacier.

We are staying here, just outside of town:

Mt Cook View Motel 203 Cook Flat Rd, Fox Glacier

https://mtcookview.co.nz which is on the Lake Mathewson Rd.



NZ $840 (approx Aud $775) fantastic value for self catering accommodation bungalow over a long weekend.

Older style, large roomy spaces, very clean, basic kitchenette.

Very comfortable, happy with our choice.

Apparently these 2 units will be remodelled next month.


Owner’s dogs are an added bonus. They pop around looking for treats.




Checking out the potential


Nope, nothing appealing (we were having muesli) see ya!


Oh yes! The neighbours! That’s more like it. They’re cooking bacon!

Thanks for sharing your trip. Love the photos.

Day 6: Fox Glacier

Cloudy, cool, still, max 18C

Drove 30 min to Franz Josef to do the short walks there, lots of parking at end of the Glacier Access Rd (turn left from FJ after bridge) and toilets and several walking trails.

Franz Josef Glacier Valley walk 30 min for glacier views, Sentinel Rock lookout is 20 min, Peter’s Pool is 20 min and can be joined with Douglas walk 1 hour.

Seems incredible to be at a glacier, in this rainforest and so close to the sea.
Stunning walks, understandably popular.
















we had our picnic lunch on a bench with this view…





then a short wander to Peter’s Pool


Peter’s Pool





We considered Callery Gorge 90 min walk had we not visited Hokitika gorge.
This starts on other side of FJ township.

Day 7: Fox Glacier

Cloudy, cool, no rain, max 18C

Today we drove to the Fox Glacier Southside viewpoint walkway, just over the Fox River Bridge (car parking but no toilets).

https://www.glaciercountry.co.nz/gct...kway-cycleway/

It’s a flat, wide, well maintained path to the first glacier viewpoint - and is absolutely stunning.
Huge trees, encased in vines, fallen logs with mosses and lichens and tiny ferns, tall free ferns.





































The Moraine walk is a short walk that is just enchanting, a narrower path, steps, rocks, tree roots, fallen trees, a real magical forest feel. So delightful, savouring the little details, the fascinating life on the dead tree trunks, the roots wrapped around boulders, I didn’t want it to end.

The Moraine path rejoins the Southside walkway.

A bit cloudy for great glacier views, but just a wonderful walk.






We had packed a picnic lunch and ate on some rocks amongst the ferns. Perfect.

We have been self catering since Christchurch, eating very decent stir fry veg / chicken, lamb chops, with pasta or potatoes, type of meals in our kitchenettes / bbq.



Tonight we are dining out at Betsey Jane Eatery and Bar, just down the road.

They don’t take reservations, and open 4-9 pm, so go early.

We were there by 5pm, and shortly after it was heaving. There are few choices here that are more upscale restaurant, rather than ‘open all day cafe style’.

Anyway, we had a great dinner and dessert, 3 glasses wine, coffee (NZ $141), and good chat with the couple at the neighbouring table who are from Switzerland (we love Switzerland, interesting to hear their view on cost of living and ‘too busy’), they would have moved to NZ if they were younger. They have travelled here several times and 50 days in a campervan this visit.



Surprised that it is Saturday night of a long weekend and there are ‘vacancy’ signs out.

Fox is much quieter than Franz Josef, but I did expect it to be busier.

Wow Ade, that is such a rarefied part of the world for most of us. Love love love those river, ocean and gorge shots.
Incredible natural beauty and your itinerary seems bang-on to experience it.
I am done. the Mother Nature TR

Oh my! Thank you so much for sharing this incredible trip!

Simply stunning. I appreciate getting glimpses of the west coast of the South Island through you as I've not traveled there. Parts of it reminds me of what we enjoyed on the Kepler Track on the southwest corner of the island.

You know I'm in. Wish I was there.

So different from Adelaide, yet so relatively close!

Enjoy all that green.

What a wonderful trip, Adelaidean! Stunning pictures in a country really privileged with the so much natural beauty. I love to see the green, thick forest with moss and ferns, and also, the high mountains, beaches and rivers. You are lucky to be relatively close to it.

Thanks for sharing it.

I’ve got to share the dinner as I want to remember to create the dessert…



the steak and mushroom sauce was delicious, and the salad was great





So good - I am going to try to recreate it



the ever changing light on our backyard view:




















thanks for your comments and interest.

Day 8: Fox Glacier



Best day of forecast, sunny and 19C

Of our 4 days, we had a single sunny day here, so our days were organised around that forecast - forest walks on the cloudy days and helicopter ride for him/ Lake Matheson for me on the sunny day.

DH had booked the helicopter flight for 10 am, meanwhile I went to Lake Matheson about 9 am to walk the loop around the lake.

Met at the lake cafe 2 hours later.



The lake walk is supposedly best in morning or evening, on a clear still day, for those reflection views.


It’s another lovely forest walk, with 3 lake viewpoints.
The jetty section is best, and I had it to myself for awhile.























We lunched at the excellent cafe there (it’s for sale), really nice salad with my veggie slice.




Also drove on a bit to the Glacier View Access Road nearby, for views of the Fox Glacier.






His day: it was the 2 glaciers and a landing, 30 min option, he loved it






That’s a mountain hut down there







We did the Minnehaha walk before dark, although it is popular at night for glow worms.
Starts at the edge of town, short and sweet, perfect for kids.





















Not another person.
So peaceful and magical.

Another day in paradise.

WHAT A TRIP ADE! Your remark about 'not another person' really puts that area into perspective.
That shot with the fence and the mountain peeking through is a Hall of Famer.
Bookmarking then bookmarking again.
I am done. the awe

beautiful photos