Five Weeks in Australia in 2008: Trip Report
Mar 4th, 2009, 08:50 AM
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PALM COVE (4 NIGHTS)
Highlights:
This is truly a beautiful beach. Lovely for early morning or evening walks. And the esplanade is also quite nice. We liked being able to just walk to dinner.
Banana rum dessert at the Sebel Reefhouse (with puff pastry and vanilla creme—yum!).
Kuranda:
This is, of course, a bit touristy. But we had lots of fun with it. After seeing so many animals in the wild, we were ready to get up close and personal! Huge views from the skyrail—of Cairns, Barron Falls and the rain forest canopy beneath us. Loved holding a koala—the softest puff of fur you could ever imagine. Feeding the wallabies was another winner. Two ate from my hand at one time—very delicately with velvety little lips.
We finally saw our cassowary at Bird World. (since we’d given up on finding one in the wild, we were pretty glad to be given this chance!). Its huge blue “helmeted” head and gigantic feet were sobering. I’m not sure what we would have done if we actually HAD come across one of these in the wild! There were even some newly laid, greenish cassowary eggs! And we got to see all sorts of cockatoos and colorful parrots up close.
In addition, a bit of drama was going on in the snake/reptile house. The whole thing is kind of open, so you don’t feel that the animals are caged. So when two pythons met, tried to crawl past each other, and then plummeted 4 feet down to the floor of their enclosure—it was pretty exciting and a bit unnerving (my first instinct was to run far away!). Loved the iridescent blue Ulysses butterflies in Butterfly World.
Bandicoots at dinner: To two tourists from North America, this was beyond amazing. There actually were bandicoots begging at dinner in the poolside restaurant. They even had a sign that said, “Do Not Feed the Bandicoots”. So much more exotic than the occasional squirrel that might beg from us in the U.S.!
Mud crab for dinner: I can’t remember the name of the place were we had this. But it was wonderful. We were sitting next to a woman who had grown up in the more southern part of Queensland. She was telling us that these mud crabs were a childhood favorite of hers. She also advised me not to worry about making a mess—she said there’s no way to properly enjoy mud crab if you are trying to be neat. I happily took her up on that!
Next: Palm Cove continued—Reef Trip
Highlights:
This is truly a beautiful beach. Lovely for early morning or evening walks. And the esplanade is also quite nice. We liked being able to just walk to dinner.
Banana rum dessert at the Sebel Reefhouse (with puff pastry and vanilla creme—yum!).
Kuranda:
This is, of course, a bit touristy. But we had lots of fun with it. After seeing so many animals in the wild, we were ready to get up close and personal! Huge views from the skyrail—of Cairns, Barron Falls and the rain forest canopy beneath us. Loved holding a koala—the softest puff of fur you could ever imagine. Feeding the wallabies was another winner. Two ate from my hand at one time—very delicately with velvety little lips.
We finally saw our cassowary at Bird World. (since we’d given up on finding one in the wild, we were pretty glad to be given this chance!). Its huge blue “helmeted” head and gigantic feet were sobering. I’m not sure what we would have done if we actually HAD come across one of these in the wild! There were even some newly laid, greenish cassowary eggs! And we got to see all sorts of cockatoos and colorful parrots up close.
In addition, a bit of drama was going on in the snake/reptile house. The whole thing is kind of open, so you don’t feel that the animals are caged. So when two pythons met, tried to crawl past each other, and then plummeted 4 feet down to the floor of their enclosure—it was pretty exciting and a bit unnerving (my first instinct was to run far away!). Loved the iridescent blue Ulysses butterflies in Butterfly World.
Bandicoots at dinner: To two tourists from North America, this was beyond amazing. There actually were bandicoots begging at dinner in the poolside restaurant. They even had a sign that said, “Do Not Feed the Bandicoots”. So much more exotic than the occasional squirrel that might beg from us in the U.S.!
Mud crab for dinner: I can’t remember the name of the place were we had this. But it was wonderful. We were sitting next to a woman who had grown up in the more southern part of Queensland. She was telling us that these mud crabs were a childhood favorite of hers. She also advised me not to worry about making a mess—she said there’s no way to properly enjoy mud crab if you are trying to be neat. I happily took her up on that!
Next: Palm Cove continued—Reef Trip
Mar 4th, 2009, 05:55 PM
#42
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PALM COVE (continued)
REEF TRIP
We chose to do our reef trip with Calypso. Partly because the boat seemed a good size—not too big.
This whole day was spectacular. I’m so glad we did it. We sat in the bow on the way out, and caught the sea spray for quite a while. Finally, we started seeing the reddish areas that indicate reefs. It’s very cool to be out there in the middle of nowhere, and actually see waves breaking (on the reefs) in the middle of the ocean.
The snorkeling was fabulous. The water was so clear. We stopped in 3 places. At the final stop, the sun came out, and the tide happened to be quite low, so we were very close to the coral (in fact we had to be careful not to accidentally touch it). It looked like an underwater fairyland—in a rainbow of pastels. At one point, we came upon a huge school of teensy-tiny lime green fish—I don’t know what they were, but their shimmer was unforgettable. We saw Angelfish, Clownfish, pink fish, blue fish--fish of every color, shape and size. I could have stayed in the water forever, just chasing them around.
We also got our picture taken with “Marvin the Giant Wrasse”—he is absolutely huge, and incredibly colorful. I guess he’s almost like a pet, because apparently he comes by every time they dock there.
There was lots of good food. A lovely lunch, lots of snacks, and tiny cakes for tea. There was also a very informative talk about the reef and everything that lives there. In addition they gave guided snorkeling tours. At one point, the guide dove down and pointed out a cuttlefish for us to admire (member of the octopus family)!
Advice about planning a snorkeling trip: Plan to do it as early as you can in your trip, so if there is bad weather, you can just move it up another day. We were in the area during an incredibly windy time. When I called to see if we could book a cruise for the first day, they told us that all cruises would be canceled due to wind (unusual, I think). It was lucky that we had a few days and could be flexible, because we ended up not going out until the last day of our stay.
Here is some encouragement for anyone who feels worried about taking one of these trips. I think we were there on one of the more "marginal days". And it was wonderful. I would do it again in a heartbeat:
1. It was really really windy. The waves were pretty big. On the way out, we actually left the bow and went inside after a while, because the bow was getting “swamped” by huge walls of water. That said, the ride was pretty decent. I don’t think anybody got seasick. The trick was to look out at the horizon.
2. Once you get to the reef you are protected. Even on a windy day, the waves can be quite calm in the protected shadow of the reef!
3. I am a very unsure swimmer. But as long as I had my noodle, I felt really safe. Anyone can do this!
An unexpected highlight: I think one of my favorite moments was at the very end of the day. My husband and I sat in the bow with two cups of hot tea as we waited for the divers to come back. We were able to bask in the sun, surrounded by the huge green and red horseshoe that was the reef. Waves were breaking all around it. You feel like you are out in the middle of nowhere—but that horseshoe is proof that you are, indeed, “somewhere” after all
This is a “must do”. It is an experience that we will always cherish.
Next: Tasmania
REEF TRIP
We chose to do our reef trip with Calypso. Partly because the boat seemed a good size—not too big.
This whole day was spectacular. I’m so glad we did it. We sat in the bow on the way out, and caught the sea spray for quite a while. Finally, we started seeing the reddish areas that indicate reefs. It’s very cool to be out there in the middle of nowhere, and actually see waves breaking (on the reefs) in the middle of the ocean.
The snorkeling was fabulous. The water was so clear. We stopped in 3 places. At the final stop, the sun came out, and the tide happened to be quite low, so we were very close to the coral (in fact we had to be careful not to accidentally touch it). It looked like an underwater fairyland—in a rainbow of pastels. At one point, we came upon a huge school of teensy-tiny lime green fish—I don’t know what they were, but their shimmer was unforgettable. We saw Angelfish, Clownfish, pink fish, blue fish--fish of every color, shape and size. I could have stayed in the water forever, just chasing them around.
We also got our picture taken with “Marvin the Giant Wrasse”—he is absolutely huge, and incredibly colorful. I guess he’s almost like a pet, because apparently he comes by every time they dock there.
There was lots of good food. A lovely lunch, lots of snacks, and tiny cakes for tea. There was also a very informative talk about the reef and everything that lives there. In addition they gave guided snorkeling tours. At one point, the guide dove down and pointed out a cuttlefish for us to admire (member of the octopus family)!
Advice about planning a snorkeling trip: Plan to do it as early as you can in your trip, so if there is bad weather, you can just move it up another day. We were in the area during an incredibly windy time. When I called to see if we could book a cruise for the first day, they told us that all cruises would be canceled due to wind (unusual, I think). It was lucky that we had a few days and could be flexible, because we ended up not going out until the last day of our stay.
Here is some encouragement for anyone who feels worried about taking one of these trips. I think we were there on one of the more "marginal days". And it was wonderful. I would do it again in a heartbeat:
1. It was really really windy. The waves were pretty big. On the way out, we actually left the bow and went inside after a while, because the bow was getting “swamped” by huge walls of water. That said, the ride was pretty decent. I don’t think anybody got seasick. The trick was to look out at the horizon.
2. Once you get to the reef you are protected. Even on a windy day, the waves can be quite calm in the protected shadow of the reef!
3. I am a very unsure swimmer. But as long as I had my noodle, I felt really safe. Anyone can do this!
An unexpected highlight: I think one of my favorite moments was at the very end of the day. My husband and I sat in the bow with two cups of hot tea as we waited for the divers to come back. We were able to bask in the sun, surrounded by the huge green and red horseshoe that was the reef. Waves were breaking all around it. You feel like you are out in the middle of nowhere—but that horseshoe is proof that you are, indeed, “somewhere” after all
This is a “must do”. It is an experience that we will always cherish.
Next: Tasmania
Mar 5th, 2009, 09:56 AM
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TASMANIA: 7 nights
We were so glad we’d added Tasmania to our itinerary. However, in our 7 nights there, we were only able to give ourselves a general overview of what that beautiful state has to offer.
We arrived in Hobart on the last day of September, and the weather was still quite chilly. This was why we had carried all that warm clothing in the bottom of our suitcases for 3 weeks! We loved everything about Tasmania. And because of the timing of our visit, we got to see the country burst into spring around us. Visiting Tasmania added so much depth to our Australian adventure: learning about history in the area’s well-preserved convict towns, visiting farms and wineries, and experiencing the exquisite temperate rain forest at Cradle Mountain.
Believe or not, I had wondered if we would find the temperate climate a bit mundane after visiting so many exotically tropical areas up north. After all, we’re from North America, so we’ve seen a plenty of beautiful coastlines, temperate rain forests, etc. But, ironically, that’s the very reason why we found Tasmania so amazing. It may be a temperate climate, but it has entirely different flora and fauna than anywhere we’d ever been. We found it absolutely amazing to go to the beach and find a wallaby hanging out in the sand. I think the most brilliant moment for me was in Cradle Mountain: we were in the cold, rainy, mossy rain forest, just enjoying the whole scene, when suddenly a sulphur-crested cockatoo landed in the tree above us. To me, this is an exotic, tropical bird—and to find it here was beyond amazing. Everywhere—seriously, everywhere—we drove in Tasmania (and we drove a lot), I kept wanting to stop the car to take pictures. Each scene seemed more beautiful and more unique than the last. Gorgeous.
Our Tasmanian Itinerary was as follows:
3 nights Hobart (used as a base for touring the Huon Valley and the Tasman Peninsula)
2 nights Freycinet area
2 nights Cradle Mountain
Books to read: “Gould’s Book of Fish” by Richard Flanagan and “For the Term of His Natural Life” by Marcus Clarke. These both delve into the convict history of Tasmania.
Next: the Huon Valley
We were so glad we’d added Tasmania to our itinerary. However, in our 7 nights there, we were only able to give ourselves a general overview of what that beautiful state has to offer.
We arrived in Hobart on the last day of September, and the weather was still quite chilly. This was why we had carried all that warm clothing in the bottom of our suitcases for 3 weeks! We loved everything about Tasmania. And because of the timing of our visit, we got to see the country burst into spring around us. Visiting Tasmania added so much depth to our Australian adventure: learning about history in the area’s well-preserved convict towns, visiting farms and wineries, and experiencing the exquisite temperate rain forest at Cradle Mountain.
Believe or not, I had wondered if we would find the temperate climate a bit mundane after visiting so many exotically tropical areas up north. After all, we’re from North America, so we’ve seen a plenty of beautiful coastlines, temperate rain forests, etc. But, ironically, that’s the very reason why we found Tasmania so amazing. It may be a temperate climate, but it has entirely different flora and fauna than anywhere we’d ever been. We found it absolutely amazing to go to the beach and find a wallaby hanging out in the sand. I think the most brilliant moment for me was in Cradle Mountain: we were in the cold, rainy, mossy rain forest, just enjoying the whole scene, when suddenly a sulphur-crested cockatoo landed in the tree above us. To me, this is an exotic, tropical bird—and to find it here was beyond amazing. Everywhere—seriously, everywhere—we drove in Tasmania (and we drove a lot), I kept wanting to stop the car to take pictures. Each scene seemed more beautiful and more unique than the last. Gorgeous.
Our Tasmanian Itinerary was as follows:
3 nights Hobart (used as a base for touring the Huon Valley and the Tasman Peninsula)
2 nights Freycinet area
2 nights Cradle Mountain
Books to read: “Gould’s Book of Fish” by Richard Flanagan and “For the Term of His Natural Life” by Marcus Clarke. These both delve into the convict history of Tasmania.
Next: the Huon Valley
Mar 5th, 2009, 10:01 AM
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TASMANIA
ONE DAY IN THE HUON VALLEY
This was one of the most pleasant days of our entire trip. I am actually highlighting everything we did, because we loved it all.
Tahune Air Walk: We wandered among the big trees here. As we ventured out onto the slightly swaying cantilevered section of this walk, I would have been unconcerned, except that several tourists (who turned out to be engineers) were feverishly taking pictures of it. Apparently it is quite the engineering marvel. Their amazement actually heightened my concern as we stood there swaying in the wind! Huge and stately swamp gum trees with beautiful stringy bark. Old-man ferns. And Huon Pines!!! I think that these only grow in Tasmania. We just saw tiny ones—you have to be on the west side of the state to see larger specimens.
Lunch at the “Court of Petty Sessions”: This was really great. There is an absolutely beautiful view and the food is both creative and tasty. We also had a very nice chat with the owner. I had the abalone soup (a specialty) and the “Tower of Chocolate with Berries and Cream” (this was to be the second “engineering marvel” that we would see on that day—just order it, you’ll never regret it!). My husband had a Thai Chicken Curry dish and a very nice shortcake with berries. Yummy!
Hartzview Winery: Lovely location. We enjoyed the tasting, and purchased a bottle of Pinot Noir to take with us, as will a Blackberry Liqueur, which is their specialty.
The light in the Huon Valley was unbeatable on this day. The sun kept peaking from behind dark clouds and highlighting the landscape almost ethereally. Lucky I was driving, because then my husband couldn’t get mad at me for wanting to stop and take in every new vista. Yellow acacias, apple trees just starting to bloom, white sheep dotting green pastures, bright azure rivers sparkling in the sun, white farm houses and fences gleaming in the fields.
Grandvewe Cheesery:
This gets our vote for “first place”. We arrived rather late in the afternoon, because we had heard that at 4:30 p.m. we could watch the sheep being milked. The entire experience was idyllic. The setting is truly gorgeous. The sheep were on a green grassy bluff overlooking the dark blue sea. The late afternoon sun made the sheep radiantly white. We watched all of the antics as two women and two dogs herded them in for their milking. This did not look like an easy job!
Also, since it was spring, there was a large grassy field full of lambs. We got to watch them gambol about making their high little “baaaing” sounds. Absolutely precious.
Next we did cheese tasting, and this was fantastic. We decided that we especially liked the softer cheeses. We also bought a jar of pinot preserves to take home with us. This is a very tasty addition to a cheese hors d’oeuvres plate. And finally, we watched the milking process. Very interesting. I had never seen milking machines before, so this was a first. The sheep are lured into stalls with food and then hooked up to these big machines. Quite a process!
Even the drive back to Hobart was spectacular. We drove through Woodbridge, Peppermint Bay and Kettering. Exquisite views! What a wonderful day!
Next: the Tasman Peninsula
ONE DAY IN THE HUON VALLEY
This was one of the most pleasant days of our entire trip. I am actually highlighting everything we did, because we loved it all.
Tahune Air Walk: We wandered among the big trees here. As we ventured out onto the slightly swaying cantilevered section of this walk, I would have been unconcerned, except that several tourists (who turned out to be engineers) were feverishly taking pictures of it. Apparently it is quite the engineering marvel. Their amazement actually heightened my concern as we stood there swaying in the wind! Huge and stately swamp gum trees with beautiful stringy bark. Old-man ferns. And Huon Pines!!! I think that these only grow in Tasmania. We just saw tiny ones—you have to be on the west side of the state to see larger specimens.
Lunch at the “Court of Petty Sessions”: This was really great. There is an absolutely beautiful view and the food is both creative and tasty. We also had a very nice chat with the owner. I had the abalone soup (a specialty) and the “Tower of Chocolate with Berries and Cream” (this was to be the second “engineering marvel” that we would see on that day—just order it, you’ll never regret it!). My husband had a Thai Chicken Curry dish and a very nice shortcake with berries. Yummy!
Hartzview Winery: Lovely location. We enjoyed the tasting, and purchased a bottle of Pinot Noir to take with us, as will a Blackberry Liqueur, which is their specialty.
The light in the Huon Valley was unbeatable on this day. The sun kept peaking from behind dark clouds and highlighting the landscape almost ethereally. Lucky I was driving, because then my husband couldn’t get mad at me for wanting to stop and take in every new vista. Yellow acacias, apple trees just starting to bloom, white sheep dotting green pastures, bright azure rivers sparkling in the sun, white farm houses and fences gleaming in the fields.
Grandvewe Cheesery:
This gets our vote for “first place”. We arrived rather late in the afternoon, because we had heard that at 4:30 p.m. we could watch the sheep being milked. The entire experience was idyllic. The setting is truly gorgeous. The sheep were on a green grassy bluff overlooking the dark blue sea. The late afternoon sun made the sheep radiantly white. We watched all of the antics as two women and two dogs herded them in for their milking. This did not look like an easy job!
Also, since it was spring, there was a large grassy field full of lambs. We got to watch them gambol about making their high little “baaaing” sounds. Absolutely precious.
Next we did cheese tasting, and this was fantastic. We decided that we especially liked the softer cheeses. We also bought a jar of pinot preserves to take home with us. This is a very tasty addition to a cheese hors d’oeuvres plate. And finally, we watched the milking process. Very interesting. I had never seen milking machines before, so this was a first. The sheep are lured into stalls with food and then hooked up to these big machines. Quite a process!
Even the drive back to Hobart was spectacular. We drove through Woodbridge, Peppermint Bay and Kettering. Exquisite views! What a wonderful day!
Next: the Tasman Peninsula
Mar 5th, 2009, 05:01 PM
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Am loving your TR, Caligirl - and so pleased it's turned out longer than you thought! Your details and descriptions are wonderful, and the last section on Tasmania brought back so many fond memories of our 10 day visit - thank you!
Looking forward to the next instalment as I salivate over the Choc Tower and cyber-wipe Melnq's chin ....
Looking forward to the next instalment as I salivate over the Choc Tower and cyber-wipe Melnq's chin ....
Mar 7th, 2009, 05:30 PM
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TASMANIA
ONE DAY ON THE TASMAN PENINSULA
Highlights:
“Devil-viewing” at the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park: We got there early, so that we could observe feeding time. The devils were very active, because they hadn’t eaten since the afternoon before. I thought they were rather cute, and quite a bit bigger than I had expected. They walk on all fours, but with a tiny bit of a hop, reminiscent of a kangaroo. A male and female got into an extremely fierce (and noisy) tug-of-war over a piece of food. As they ate, we could hear their powerful jaws crunching the bones. These are truly ferocious creatures. We also enjoyed the kangaroo enclosure. I could have sat there, watching them interact, for hours.
Looking at the funky houses in DooTown (near the Blowhole): Each house has a name: “Doo-Little”, “Doo’in Time”, “Doo-Us”, etc.
Tasman Arch, Tesselated Pavement, Blowhole, Remarkable Cave: All fun to see. And the little trails going to each are very enjoyable--the lovely Tasmanian “spring-mix” of golden acacia, silvery green-eucalyptus, and a bluish-purple flowered shrub, all set against the deep blue water. This coastline is not to be missed. The Tasman Arch was especially impressive.
A lovely tomato-basil soup at the Eaglehawk Neck Café for lunch: Can’t remember what my husband had, but I know that he enjoyed their ginger beer.
Port Arthur: You could spend a lot of time here. There’s lots of fascinating and creatively presented historical information. And as you walk around, you will feel that you are looking at one picture postcard after another. I’ll bet this site is beautiful at any time of year. In spring it was just gorgeous with lots of grassy lawns and with fruit trees bursting into bloom. If you take the 20 minute Harbour Cruise, you can look back at the entire colony from the water—quite picturesque. The buildings are beautifully preserved/redone. We were fascinated by the tiny vertical stalls that the convicts were forced to stand in while attending church! I was also amazed to find colorful rosellas pecking for food on one of the lawns. Each time we found a different exotic bird in this temperate climate, I was surprised (and thrilled) all over again!
Next: the Freycinet Area
ONE DAY ON THE TASMAN PENINSULA
Highlights:
“Devil-viewing” at the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park: We got there early, so that we could observe feeding time. The devils were very active, because they hadn’t eaten since the afternoon before. I thought they were rather cute, and quite a bit bigger than I had expected. They walk on all fours, but with a tiny bit of a hop, reminiscent of a kangaroo. A male and female got into an extremely fierce (and noisy) tug-of-war over a piece of food. As they ate, we could hear their powerful jaws crunching the bones. These are truly ferocious creatures. We also enjoyed the kangaroo enclosure. I could have sat there, watching them interact, for hours.
Looking at the funky houses in DooTown (near the Blowhole): Each house has a name: “Doo-Little”, “Doo’in Time”, “Doo-Us”, etc.
Tasman Arch, Tesselated Pavement, Blowhole, Remarkable Cave: All fun to see. And the little trails going to each are very enjoyable--the lovely Tasmanian “spring-mix” of golden acacia, silvery green-eucalyptus, and a bluish-purple flowered shrub, all set against the deep blue water. This coastline is not to be missed. The Tasman Arch was especially impressive.
A lovely tomato-basil soup at the Eaglehawk Neck Café for lunch: Can’t remember what my husband had, but I know that he enjoyed their ginger beer.
Port Arthur: You could spend a lot of time here. There’s lots of fascinating and creatively presented historical information. And as you walk around, you will feel that you are looking at one picture postcard after another. I’ll bet this site is beautiful at any time of year. In spring it was just gorgeous with lots of grassy lawns and with fruit trees bursting into bloom. If you take the 20 minute Harbour Cruise, you can look back at the entire colony from the water—quite picturesque. The buildings are beautifully preserved/redone. We were fascinated by the tiny vertical stalls that the convicts were forced to stand in while attending church! I was also amazed to find colorful rosellas pecking for food on one of the lawns. Each time we found a different exotic bird in this temperate climate, I was surprised (and thrilled) all over again!
Next: the Freycinet Area
Mar 8th, 2009, 09:47 AM
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FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK—2 NIGHTS
Highlights:
Scallop pies!! It was a 3 to 4 hour drive between Hobart and Freycinet National Park. On our way, we stopped for lunch in the historic town of Richmond. Richmond has the oldest bridge, the oldest gaol, and the oldest catholic church in Australia—all built in the early to mid-1800’s. We especially liked the bridge. When we walked down to the water, we found some very pretty ducks, swimming in front of the bridge’s graceful arches. But the best part was the curry scallop pies at the Richmond Bakery. These, alone, were worth the stop! If it had been a little warmer, I think we might have taken our pies and eaten them down by the river.
Sheep as far as the eye can see--and the sun glinting off the white backs of a flock of sulfur-crested cockatoos! (my fascination with parrots in temperate climates is fueled again!).
Walking on the beach at Richardson Bay (in Freycinet N.P.) at sunset: Admiring all of the pretty shells.
A lovely hike: We walked up to the viewpoint above Wineglass Bay, then down to the beach, across the isthmus to Hazard Beach and then back along Oyster Bay. This is extremely scenic. The view of Wineglass Bay is classic. And when we walked down to the beach, there was a single wallaby sitting in the incredibly soft white sand. Beautiful views of Coles Bay on the way back.
Bicheno Penguin tour in the evening: These are fairy penguins—very cute and small. They have an informal gathering place in the water just off the beach, where they wait until it gets dark. Then, when one of them decides to swim in to the beach—they all follow and climb up to their burrows. It’s hilarious. They have that sort of “self-important” little penguin walk, and shake their heads from side to side as they amble along. As the evening progressed, we could hear pairs in the burrows, murmuring and trilling very sweetly to each other. Some of them waddle way inland—across the cow pastures—to sleep in rabbit burrows (a long trek for those tiny birds to make every night). We were so glad we did this. The diversity of life in Tasmania is really impressive. Driving back toward Coles Bay, we were very careful to keep to the reduced “nighttime speed limit”. And we were glad we did—we saw several animals crossing the road, and were relieved to be able to slow down and give them a chance to make it safely to the other side.
Next: Cradle Mountain
Highlights:
Scallop pies!! It was a 3 to 4 hour drive between Hobart and Freycinet National Park. On our way, we stopped for lunch in the historic town of Richmond. Richmond has the oldest bridge, the oldest gaol, and the oldest catholic church in Australia—all built in the early to mid-1800’s. We especially liked the bridge. When we walked down to the water, we found some very pretty ducks, swimming in front of the bridge’s graceful arches. But the best part was the curry scallop pies at the Richmond Bakery. These, alone, were worth the stop! If it had been a little warmer, I think we might have taken our pies and eaten them down by the river.
Sheep as far as the eye can see--and the sun glinting off the white backs of a flock of sulfur-crested cockatoos! (my fascination with parrots in temperate climates is fueled again!).
Walking on the beach at Richardson Bay (in Freycinet N.P.) at sunset: Admiring all of the pretty shells.
A lovely hike: We walked up to the viewpoint above Wineglass Bay, then down to the beach, across the isthmus to Hazard Beach and then back along Oyster Bay. This is extremely scenic. The view of Wineglass Bay is classic. And when we walked down to the beach, there was a single wallaby sitting in the incredibly soft white sand. Beautiful views of Coles Bay on the way back.
Bicheno Penguin tour in the evening: These are fairy penguins—very cute and small. They have an informal gathering place in the water just off the beach, where they wait until it gets dark. Then, when one of them decides to swim in to the beach—they all follow and climb up to their burrows. It’s hilarious. They have that sort of “self-important” little penguin walk, and shake their heads from side to side as they amble along. As the evening progressed, we could hear pairs in the burrows, murmuring and trilling very sweetly to each other. Some of them waddle way inland—across the cow pastures—to sleep in rabbit burrows (a long trek for those tiny birds to make every night). We were so glad we did this. The diversity of life in Tasmania is really impressive. Driving back toward Coles Bay, we were very careful to keep to the reduced “nighttime speed limit”. And we were glad we did—we saw several animals crossing the road, and were relieved to be able to slow down and give them a chance to make it safely to the other side.
Next: Cradle Mountain
Mar 9th, 2009, 05:32 PM
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Melnq8--Well, it should look familiar (!)--I happen to know you've done lots of the very same things. If we'd been there a bit later in the season, I would have loved to go to Kate's Berry Farm. I think we were a bit early for actual fresh-picked berries, though.
Mar 9th, 2009, 05:49 PM
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CRADLE MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK—2 NIGHTS
Highlights:
Driving to Cradle Mountain allowed us another beautiful country excursion through the unique and exquisite Tasmanian landscape: We stopped in the historic town of Ross for lattes. This is a very pretty town—with lovely statues, and historic buildings. The bridge over the Macquarie River is decorated with beautifully detailed carvings which were done by two very talented convicts. And there is a famous intersection on Church Street which has an historic building on each corner. These are said to represent the town’s beginnings: the pub represents “temptation”, the town hall—“recreation”, the old gaol—“damnation” and the church—“salvation”. All throughout this town, there were trees bursting into bloom, with fluffy chartreuse-green flowers. Brilliant!
Cradle Mountain National Park was teeming with life: Wombats. Pademelons. Echidnas!! We were excited to put on our rain pants and walk through the mossy, dripping rain forest. We felt like we had entered a scene from the Lord of the Rings. The forest is so dark, that the moss and lichen appear to be radiating fluorescent light--they positively glow. And the drizzle just enhances it all the more. Red-barked trees, shiny with rain. Pencil Pine Falls--with gushing white rapids and spray. We ran into an echidna on the way back. As we were walking across a grassy field, we saw something that looked a lot like a bowling ball. But, then the ball sprouted a tiny pointed nose! The little fellow kept about his business, rooting in the weeds, and let us ogle as much as we wanted. And, one more thing: did you know that wombats make CUBE-shaped droppings?!!
Sitting in our room, with a fire blazing in the fireplace and watching the wildlife “pass by”: Wombats and pademelons were grazing right below our window. Really! And then, we were relaxing and having port and cheese after dinner one night, when a brushtail possum showed up on our balcony. It had a little pink nose, merry eyes and a HUGE bushy tail. We had opened our door for a little air, and this possum climbed between the screen and the sliding door. (makes me think, that people feed these little guys—we resisted the urge—it’s not good for them!). Anyway, we were thrilled to see the possum, because we’d had such back luck with our possum-viewing in the Atherton Tablelands. There was also a pademelon that would come up to our front door, and look in through the glass insert. Very cute.
Seeing Pencil Pines and King Billy Pines for the first time ever: There are some truly majestic ones on the King Billy Walk (another surreal tramp with lichen and moss everywhere!). These trees only grow in the southern hemisphere.
Scenic walk around Dove Lake: Yellow button-grass fields brightening up the rainy day. Trying to see Cradle Mountain, obscured in dark clouds and white mists. Admiring the variations in eucalyptus bark, thrown into high relief by the wet weather. Enjoying the sub-alpine plants as we hike through many different terrains. Waterfalls springing like leaks from the surrounding mountains. They’re everywhere! And then--the sun finally peeking out. Watching the crown of clouds slowly lift off of Cradle Mountain, so that we can see the top! Yay!
Whimsical mailboxes on the road that took us to the Devonport Airport: One, for example, had a full-size lawnmower on top of it. Another was a cat with a life-size man next to it, holding a leash. Still another was a gigantic still. I wish we hadn’t been in a hurry to catch the plane, because I would have liked photograph works of art!
We had worried that it was a long drive to Cradle Mountain, and that it might not be worth it to go there for only two nights. But, I'm so glad we did. Of course, it would be better to stay longer--but it would be a shame to miss this truly unique place!
Next: Sydney
Highlights:
Driving to Cradle Mountain allowed us another beautiful country excursion through the unique and exquisite Tasmanian landscape: We stopped in the historic town of Ross for lattes. This is a very pretty town—with lovely statues, and historic buildings. The bridge over the Macquarie River is decorated with beautifully detailed carvings which were done by two very talented convicts. And there is a famous intersection on Church Street which has an historic building on each corner. These are said to represent the town’s beginnings: the pub represents “temptation”, the town hall—“recreation”, the old gaol—“damnation” and the church—“salvation”. All throughout this town, there were trees bursting into bloom, with fluffy chartreuse-green flowers. Brilliant!
Cradle Mountain National Park was teeming with life: Wombats. Pademelons. Echidnas!! We were excited to put on our rain pants and walk through the mossy, dripping rain forest. We felt like we had entered a scene from the Lord of the Rings. The forest is so dark, that the moss and lichen appear to be radiating fluorescent light--they positively glow. And the drizzle just enhances it all the more. Red-barked trees, shiny with rain. Pencil Pine Falls--with gushing white rapids and spray. We ran into an echidna on the way back. As we were walking across a grassy field, we saw something that looked a lot like a bowling ball. But, then the ball sprouted a tiny pointed nose! The little fellow kept about his business, rooting in the weeds, and let us ogle as much as we wanted. And, one more thing: did you know that wombats make CUBE-shaped droppings?!!
Sitting in our room, with a fire blazing in the fireplace and watching the wildlife “pass by”: Wombats and pademelons were grazing right below our window. Really! And then, we were relaxing and having port and cheese after dinner one night, when a brushtail possum showed up on our balcony. It had a little pink nose, merry eyes and a HUGE bushy tail. We had opened our door for a little air, and this possum climbed between the screen and the sliding door. (makes me think, that people feed these little guys—we resisted the urge—it’s not good for them!). Anyway, we were thrilled to see the possum, because we’d had such back luck with our possum-viewing in the Atherton Tablelands. There was also a pademelon that would come up to our front door, and look in through the glass insert. Very cute.
Seeing Pencil Pines and King Billy Pines for the first time ever: There are some truly majestic ones on the King Billy Walk (another surreal tramp with lichen and moss everywhere!). These trees only grow in the southern hemisphere.
Scenic walk around Dove Lake: Yellow button-grass fields brightening up the rainy day. Trying to see Cradle Mountain, obscured in dark clouds and white mists. Admiring the variations in eucalyptus bark, thrown into high relief by the wet weather. Enjoying the sub-alpine plants as we hike through many different terrains. Waterfalls springing like leaks from the surrounding mountains. They’re everywhere! And then--the sun finally peeking out. Watching the crown of clouds slowly lift off of Cradle Mountain, so that we can see the top! Yay!
Whimsical mailboxes on the road that took us to the Devonport Airport: One, for example, had a full-size lawnmower on top of it. Another was a cat with a life-size man next to it, holding a leash. Still another was a gigantic still. I wish we hadn’t been in a hurry to catch the plane, because I would have liked photograph works of art!
We had worried that it was a long drive to Cradle Mountain, and that it might not be worth it to go there for only two nights. But, I'm so glad we did. Of course, it would be better to stay longer--but it would be a shame to miss this truly unique place!
Next: Sydney
Mar 10th, 2009, 10:52 PM
#60
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Still loving your report, Caligirl - and love how you seize the moment, don rain gear, and experience a different beauty of rainforests in the well, ahhh rain!
Have sent your brilliant trip report link to editor Katie, and asked her to highlight it in the next Fodor's newsletter. It so deserves a wider readership!
Cubed poo, who knew - as Melnq said. I so fondly remember cuddling a wombat in Tasmania but never checked what came out the end as I squeezed!
Now waiting for Sydney!
Have sent your brilliant trip report link to editor Katie, and asked her to highlight it in the next Fodor's newsletter. It so deserves a wider readership!
Cubed poo, who knew - as Melnq said. I so fondly remember cuddling a wombat in Tasmania but never checked what came out the end as I squeezed!
Now waiting for Sydney!
