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Fantastic South Island Trip May-June 2016

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Fantastic South Island Trip May-June 2016

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Old Jul 1st, 2016, 02:33 PM
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May 26 Te Anau to Wanaka

We had another lovely, sunny day to travel from Te Anau to Wanaka. On our way, we stopped at AJ Hackett's Karawau River location to watch a few intrepid bungy jumpers take the plunge. At one point, I was considering doing a bungy swing, but the cost made me change my mind - well, that and the cost. Maybe someday!

We chose to drive highway 6 between Lakes Wanaka and Hawea (wow, so lovely!) so we could stop at Mt. Difficulty Winery in Bannockburn for lunch. http://www.mtdifficulty.co.nz/ By the time we arrived, they were only serving their Mt. Difficulty platter (see the menu) which was delicious - a wide variety of cheeses, spreads, breads, etc.

After lunch, we tasted a few wines, all of which were very good. Mr. Pickle isn't a fan of dry wines, so I bought a bottle of their Target Riesling, which he had really enjoyed. It's just barely sweet and really tasty. We packed it in one of the wine bottle protectors we'd bought before we left home, and I'm happy to say it arrived home intact.

Eventually, we arrived in Wanaka and found the YHA Purple Cow, our home for the next two nights. I'd reserved a room with a lake view and ensuite bathroom; we had a good amount of space and a very nice view of the lake and mountains. The hostel is about 1 1/2 blocks from the New World supermarket and the rest of downtown.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 1st, 2016, 03:34 PM
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I'm glad you had good weather. I know you can't edit posts here, but I think you meant to say something else here: "We chose to drive highway 6 between Lakes Wanaka and Hawea (wow, so lovely!) so we could stop at Mt. Difficulty Winery in Bannockburn for lunch." Perhaps the reference to the lakes was for a later entry and you meant to say how lovely Gibbston Valley was?
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Old Jul 1st, 2016, 05:00 PM
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<<We packed it in one of the wine bottle protectors we'd bought before we left home, and I'm happy to say it arrived home intact.>>

What??? Such restraint, actually taking it home
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Old Jul 1st, 2016, 08:28 PM
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>>Perhaps the reference to the lakes was for a later entry and you meant to say how lovely Gibbston Valley was?<<

Oops. I was referring to our pictures as I wrote and got ahead of myself.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 5th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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Wow, I'm off on my dates, too!

May 26 (really) A Day in Wanaka

At some point in our trip planning, we thought we would drive into Mt. Aspiring National Park and hike the Rob Roy Glacier trail. However, our rental car company paperwork said not to drive the car on the unsealed road in the park. That, combined with us bailing out on the Key Summit Track, made us decide to spend the day in Wanaka.

We slept in, then walked to Ritual Espresso for brunch. Delicious food and coffee, with interesting art on the walls.

Fueled and caffeinated, we spent some time shopping for gifts for our family. I bought myself some really nice possum/merino yarn at Fine Wools Wanaka, and Mr. Pickle got me a greenstone necklace to go with the earrings we'd bought back in 2004. I'm not normally much of a shopper, but we enjoyed looking in several stores that sold locally made art and gifts.

After a stroll along the lakefront and a stop at Kai Whakapai for adult beverages, we made our way back to the hostel. On the way, we stopped at Cinema Paradiso http://www.paradiso.net.nz/ to see what was playing. I'd read great things about this movie theater for years, and was delighted to find it was only a block for the hostel.

We dropped off our purchases and drove to Mt. Iron, just outside town, to do some walking. Instead of hiking up to the summit, we walked around most of the base of the mountain - you don't get the views, but it was pleasant and relaxing.

A couple of you recommended The Spice Room, and we had a really delicious dinner there. http://spiceroom.co.nz/ Thank you!

After dinner, we saw X-Men: Apocalypse at Cinema Paradiso. This is a fun place to see a movie - really comfortable seats (including recliners, loveseats, etc.), walls papered with movie posters, and unique decorations (we found Gollum peering out from behind a rock). Every film has an intermission so you can try their fresh homemade cookies and homemade ice cream, plus beer, wine, etc. We don't have anything like it in our city.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 11:55 AM
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Sorry, it's been busy here! Will post more later today.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 18th, 2016, 11:39 AM
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Test post - I've been trying for three days to update this!
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Old Jul 18th, 2016, 11:41 AM
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So annoying - I can post a test post but not the next leg of the report.
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Old Jul 21st, 2016, 02:08 PM
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OK, trying again here...

Or maybe I won't post until Saturday.

May 27 Wanaka to Franz Josef

So this was the day we actually drove between Lakes Wanaka and Hawea on our way to Franz Josef. We had another beautiful, sunny day, so we included short hikes to the Blue Pools and Fantail Falls. It's just amazing how clear that water is at the Blue Pools!

If you, like us, are budget travelers, I can highly recommend the YHA hostel in Franz Josef. We had a spacious double room with ensuite bath, tea/coffee making equipment, and snacks included.

The staff makes a big pot of vegetable soup every night for those who want to eat cheaply or just hang out, and they give great travel advice as well. We were going to take a heli-hike with Franz Josef Glacier Guides, but decided it was too expensive. Instead, we planned to do their guided glacier valley walk. The hostel receptionist said, "Oh, you don't need to pay to do that!" She told us the path they used to use had been partially washed away, so now the company just had to use the regular trail that everyone takes to the glacier. We appreciated saving that money!

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 21st, 2016, 02:09 PM
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Last part of May 27

As the sun went down and the rain started, we had dinner at Snake Bite Brewery, which a friend had recommended to me. http://www.snakebite.co.nz/ This was one of the very best meals we had on this trip - Asian fusion menu with craft beers, tasty drinks, everything you want on a cold, rainy night. Their tofu nasi goreng was excellent, and my #1 Snakebite was the perfect pairing - the slight sweetness balanced my dinner's spiciness really well.

Lee Ann
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Old Jul 22nd, 2016, 12:55 AM
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Lee Ann - I think that the year we were in NZ was the last time you could do a walk onto the glacier - now you either do the valley walk [open to all] or a hell-hike. the glacier walk was quite interesting but no more than that; and it was a long walk out to get there.
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Old Jul 25th, 2016, 06:41 PM
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May 28 Franz Josef and Hokitika

Another cool, cloudy day, perfect for visiting Franz Josef Glacier! It either drizzled, sprinkled, or flat out rained the whole time, but it was a great walk. I loved seeing the waterfalls along the way, and at least one huge chunk of ice partially buried near the path. People need to make sure they take the warnings about staying on the path seriously.

On the way back to the car, we started talking with a Canadian woman who had chosen to wait for her husband at the top of the descent into the river valley while he went on to the glacier overlook. They had reserved the heli-hike, which was canceled due to the weather, and ended up walking from town because they couldn't find any other transportation. We offered to wait with her until her husband returned and gave them a ride back into town.

After lunch at the Snakebite Brewery - great bacon and egg pie, mango lime tart, and my first L & P of the trip - we headed north to Hokitika. After our walk, we were ready for a short driving day! In addition, we found out it was snowing at Arthur's Pass, and we wanted to be sure we wouldn't be delayed by snow if we drove through that day.

While we were still in Franz Josef, Mr. Pickle used booking.com to reserve a room at the ACE bed and breakfast in Hokitika. The house was lovely, the owners are friendly but unobtrusive, our room was very comfortable, and the fresh preserves and butter at breakfast were delicious.

However, here's a pro tip - check lodging reviews on Tripadvisor before booking! When we arrived, we discovered only one room has an ensuite bathroom, and the other four share a bathroom. We booked a less expensive room (though it would have had a fabulous view if it was sunny) and had to share the bathroom with one other couple. We got back from dinner (Fat Pipi Pizza, really good) and had to wait a looong time to use the bathroom. I can't imagine what it would be like if all the rooms are occupied.

We had to wait until 4:00 to check in, so we spent time wandering around downtown Hokitika, looking in the greenstone shops, window shopping, and getting some snacks at the New World. It was a bit too cold and windy to visit the beach, unfortunately.

Lee Ann
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Old Aug 2nd, 2016, 01:22 PM
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May 29 Across The Mountains to Methven (with added Ross)

I forgot to mention that since Mr. Pickle's first name is Ross, we had to make a stop there. It was pouring rain, so we only stayed long enough to use the facilities and take a picture of him in the stocks at the Old Ross Gaol. In nicer weather, when things are open (it was Saturday afternoon and everything was closed), it would be interesting to visit the old buildings and learn more about the town's gold mining history.

After a pretty decent breakfast at our B & B (good breads, fresh homemade preserves, butter, Marmite, etc.), it was time to head for the eastern side of the island.

It was snowing again, but Arthur's Pass was open, and we made a fairly quick stop at the visitor center to learn a little more about the area. We especially enjoyed the old stagecoach and the poem a former passenger wrote about the ride from Springfield to Kumara Station. I can't imagine taking that journey!

After several days spent driving through mountain passes, it was pretty neat to see the landscape open up as we got into Canterbury. We stopped at an overlook to admire the braided rivers and the red bark on the trees. As we pulled in, three guys were taking what looked like styrofoam coolers from the back of their pickup. They popped the lids, started pulling out dead furry critters, and shook large bags of salt all over them. I hope they made a dent in the Kiwi possum population!

We'd packed a picnic lunch for the day and decided we would stop in Sheffield to pick up dinner at the Sheffield Pie Shop. I'd read excellent reviews of the place. We bought our pies (Moroccan lamb for me, some kind of steak affair for Mr. Pickle) and realized they were so fresh and hot that we really didn't want to wait to eat them. Our picnic lunch would just have to wait.

Sheffield Pie Shop also makes fantastic desserts; we split a piece of carrot cake that was one of the best I've had in a while.

After a number of photo stops, we made it to Methven. This small town is near Mount Hutt, so it's a base for the ski resorts in the area.

There are no YHA hostels, and very few hotels, so we booked a king ensuite room at the Snow Denn Lodge hostel. The owner, George, is very friendly, and gave us directions to the supermarket and other places we needed to find.

Unfortunately, he forgot to turn the heat on in our room, the light didn't work, and the ensuite bathroom was teeny, with a sliding pocket door adjoining the room next door - fine for a family group, but not so much for us. The room next door, though, was billed as not having an ensuite bathroom, and the pocket door was locked from our side, so we just kept it that way. George got the heat turned on and brought us some lamps, and we were set for the night.

We walked to the supermarket and picked up dinner and breakfast items. The kitchen at Snow Denn is large, with plenty of work space, but all the pots, pans, and cooking utensils, while usable, really need to be replaced.

We wondered why so many of the 20-somethings staying there had milk crates full of non-perishables in the kitchen. After dinner, we chatted with a few of our fellow guests and found that most of them were staying in Methven waiting to get jobs at the ski resorts, which hadn't opened yet. Apparently George gives a lot of people a free room in exchange for their doing chores at the hostel, so it's a good place to stay if you're in NZ on a work visa.

Lee Ann
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Old Aug 2nd, 2016, 01:43 PM
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Ross Pickle...I like it

Your story about the possums reminded me of the year we exited a Blenheim pub to find a Ute with dead possums dangling from its front bumper parked right out front. That was our introduction to the possum in NZ = pest.

I seem to recall that possums are a protected species in Australia.

A thoroughly good read Lee Ann.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2016, 02:58 AM
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no possums for your picnic lunch then, Lee Ann?

sounds like you enjoyed the roadside cafes and bakeries as much as we did - one of the unexpected joys of touring NZ turned out to be how good the fare and the coffee is in even the smallest places.
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 02:20 PM
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May 30 Journey to Edoras (with Bonus Sheep Jam) and Akaroa

I've wanted to visit Mount Sunday, the site Peter Jackson used for Edoras in The Two Towers, since I first saw the film in 2002. It's located on someone's farm, and in past years, you had to ford a small river to hike up to the mountain. After we read that the DOC built a foot bridge over the river to accomodate us Lord of the Rings fans, we decided to spend most of the day getting there and back again. Well, actually, we were going to Akaroa that evening, but I try not to miss getting in a Tolkien reference when possible.

After a quick stop at Cafe Primo e Secundo for the obligatory takeaway flat white, we hit the road, making a brief pause to turn ourselves around and head the right way.

Mount Sunday is located in the Hakatere Conservation Area, a mile or so off the Mount Potts road. It was a beautiful sunny, cold day, and this is a really stunning drive. It reminded me a little of the part of southern Colorado where you top a crest, look into a wide valley and boom! mountain peaks just pop out of what looks like flat ground. You get the idea if you look at my pictures.

Eventually we reached the parking area and started our hike. It's a pretty easy walk until you start climbing; if you're in shape, it would still be pretty easy, but if you aren't...well, let's just say we were huffing and puffing by the time we reached the top! The last part of the ascent is on the west side of the mountain; since it was still in the shade, the ground was frozen mud in places and fairly slippery.

But the view from the top was fabulous! There wasn't enough breeze for my hair to whip in the wind ala Eowyn, but it was incredibly, geekily cool for me to stand up there and look around. There were just a few other people there, since this site takes more effort to get to than some of the other filming sites.

On the way down, Mr. Pickle gave me a much appreciated helping hand on the slippery frozen mud. We got back into the sunlight, he said, "You should be OK now," walked about six feet away, and promptly slipped and fell. Fortunately, only his dignity was hurt.

We wanted to get to Akaroa by late afternoon, so we walked back to the car fairly quickly and left. A little ways past Lake Clearwater, we ran into a flock of sheep being herded down the road. The shepherd pulled his truck off the road, and the dogs got out of our way. The sheep? Not so much.

It took at least 30 minutes for us to sloooowly drive through the flock. Every time we thought we were making progress, another sheep or two would leap out in front of us from the roadside, then slow to a walk about three feet from our front bumper.

What else could we do but laugh and enjoy the experience? If you look at my pictures, we ended up taking a video which includes our "Hey, tourists! Let's slow them down" ovine conspiracy theory.

Pro tip - driving the narrow, twisty road to Akaroa isn't much fun in the dark, especially when it's raining. We didn't get to see much, though providentially, there wasn't much traffic.

Again, we didn't book a room in advance, so we used booking.com once we got into town to find a room for the night. The La Rochelle Motel was reasonably priced, and it had looked nice when we drove past it, so we reserved online and drove to their property.

When we went to the office, it was closed even though their hours said they were open until 8. I called the number on the door, which went to one of the owners' voice mail.

"It's a small town," Mr. Pickle said. "Let's go across the street to have dinner at the pub, and we can ask someone there if they know the owners and how we can talk to them."

The pub is part of the Grand Hotel in Akaroa, and serves good food and drink. We ordered dinner at the bar, and I chose a table while Mr. Pickle asked the bartender if he knew the motel owners and how we could get in touch with them. Turns out they were sitting at the table next to ours! Since we had booked online about 10 minutes before we arrived at the motel, they weren't expecting anyone and had decided to have some dinner out.

After we all finished eating, we checked in and enjoyed a really nice stay. La Rochelle is a small motel, with kitchenettes and super comfortable beds. Our room even had a small patio, which would be nice for breakfast.

We checked out a copy of The Two Towers from their office so we could compare our pictures to the shots in the movie, and enjoyed a relaxing evening.

Lee Ann
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 02:45 PM
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On the way down, Mr. Pickle gave me a much appreciated helping hand on the slippery frozen mud. We got back into the sunlight, he said, "You should be OK now," walked about six feet away, and promptly slipped and fell. Fortunately, only his dignity was hurt.>>

lol, Lee Ann, that's just what happened to us in Cuba, only the mud wasn't frozen but was very sticky. DH helped me so I didn't slip over but then went down on his bum a few moments later. Did you manage not to laugh? i didn't!
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 02:51 PM
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BTW, there was a discussion on the radio here yesterday [actually during the BBC cricket commentary as the current test match is being played at Edgbaston] about where the Two Towers were. The consensus seemed to be that they were in Birmingham, but which ones there were was hotly disputed.

Apparently Birmingham was the inspiration for Tolkien's urban nightmare!
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 03:48 PM
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<<but it was incredibly, geekily cool>>

Great description!

Also enjoyed the Akarora motel story - part of why I love NZ so much.
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Old Aug 6th, 2016, 04:07 PM
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Thanks for sharing, Lee Ann. I had wanted to visit Mt. Sunday, but I thought you had to join a 4-wheel-drive "Lord of the Rings" tour to get there. Good to know it's accessible via a foot bridge through Hakatere Conservation Area. I'll add that to my long list of "places to visit on the South Island."

That road into Akaroa is curvy, and worse when it's foggy, too!
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