Love your report, gruezi. Where do you get the energy?

Greetings from Wellington where it is sunny and blue and I've fallen in love at first sight.

What a charming city and we are lucky to arrive to perfect weather.

Took the ferry to Day Bay and had a wonderful lunch at Cobar. We were the only ones on the restaurant so we had a private meal with a seaside table. The blue water just sparkled all around us. Breathtaking.

Then we came back to Wellington and took the cable car up to the botanical garden for a stroll. Great views and a beautiful and peaceful walk.

Now we are back at the gorgeous Hotel Intercontinental enjoying a drink in their club lounge overlooking the bay. It's just absolutely beautiful.

Tomorrow I'm up early for a trip to Kapiti Island.


AnnHig - I enjoyed Auckland, but it can't really compare to Wellington. I think you made the right cut.

Treesa - if you only knew how cranky I was this morning when my husband's phone rang at 7 am. It was ugly. There are some very tired moments for both of us. Fortunately we are getting on quite well and our jetlag seems to be hitting at different times!

I love Wellington too, we will be there visiting our son, DIL and two grandchildren for the long weekend coming up, and celebrating my grand-daughter's 5th birthday. I think Wellington is a mini version of San Francisco. It is a great place to just walk around, do some shopping, enjoy the views, stroll along Oriental Parade, try out the wonderful cafes, and visit the art galleries and museums.

Ah wonderful, windy Wellington! I knew you'd like it Gruezi.
You must have a Gin with L&P while you're there.

Hi gruezi,

glad that you are enjoying the Windy city and having better than we did; we never got to the botanical gardens and the B&B that we stayed in rattled and rolled all night - but there were wonderful views in the morning.

more please!

Following along and loving it.

I too am following along and enjoying your travels. Haven't been to NZ outside of Auckland. Someday...

Hi Greuzi

I've been away from computer lately, and so not been able to keep up with your travels - and others, too. I see you are in Wellington - when do you leave? Would be nice to meet you if you are here tomorrow, Friday, and have some free time.

Gruezi,
Sunny Wellington sounds lovely!

I've been told Wellington has been added to my itinerary for next June so I'm hoping the weather then will be just as nice lol.
Like you I will also be a 'trailing spouse' and will have plenty of time alone while my husband works. I've told Mr. Sassy_cat that he has to take a leaf out of Mr. Gruezi's book and factor in time for occasional meals/ outings with me! I think it would be really nice to carve out a free long weekend during our 2 week trip...

Nelsonian - lucky you! Enjoy your family time in Wellington and that special 5th birthday.

Bokhara - the wind and rain certainly arrived after our calm and sunny arrival day!

Dotty - sorry to just get your message now. I'm sorry to be all out of time and have to miss meeting up. How lucky for you to call this wonderful little city home!

Sassycat - I think the weather in June should be quite a bit warmer for you. In any event, NZ is an easy place to spend time alone. You'll be fine while your husband is working. And it seems people do let off work at the end of the day so your husband should be able to spend time with you. I'm actually enjoying having my solo time but also a date for dinner at night. Kind of perfect for me.

Yesterday, bright and early, I took the 6:50 am train (50 minutes) up to Paraparaumu to catch a ferry over to Kapiti (pronounced like cuppa tea but more like cappa tea) Island. If you are at all interested in birding or nature conservation it's a must see. It's a very peaceful and natural predator-free preserve open to a limited number of visitors by special permit. The concierge at my hotel got me all taken care of in terms of permits and ferry (not really a ferry but a small charter boat) over. Before leaving for the crossing to the reserve my bag was checked for rodents. Fortunately no rats were found in my 6x8" purse and I was allowed over

There was talk that morning of rough waters and canceling boats the next few days which "nervoused me up" as it's kind of a remote place and I wasn't keen on staying overnight and not without my toothbrush etc. IYKWIM! But I figured they'd figure it all out.

Thankfully I was at the boat club early and had some breakfast there in town as the boat trip over was rather bumpy. Probably not the best idea on an empty stomach if you get seasick as I can in rough weather. It only takes about 20 minutes to get over. There was just a very small group and the weather looked threatening all day so they warned us it would be a shorter visit. I had a polar fleece and warm scarf but would have liked a hat and gloves as well.

Once over on Kapiti I had a private guide to the wildlife as I was the only one there for that purpose (others were doing a 3 hour hike up to the top of the island - I don't know how it was decided what I was there for actually). He was a young man whose ancestors retained their rights to a small bit of land on the island after the government took it over for conservation purposes. He was very nice and knowledgeable and told me probably more than I needed to know as I was really more interested in hiking. But, I listened politely as he was very proud and enthusiastic. The most interesting part to me was learning how they eradicated the predators and how constant vigilance is needed to prevent their return to the island.

Finally, he set me loose on a nice 1.5 hour hike in the bush with some very nice water vistas. I didn't see a whole lot of bird life, but that was fine as I'm not a birder. It was very peaceful and I had the trail to myself. Time for quiet and reflection.

Then it was time for lunch at the lodge which was hearty and delicious and where I met a couple from Holland and a man from Scotland who had stayed overnight the night before. They were serious birders with major cameras with very large lenses. I imagine they were after seeing Kiwi which are nocturnal. They were all very disappointed to be getting "kicked off the island" early due to impending bad weather. I personally was very tired and a bit cold and had enough of an experience by 1 pm to be happy to head back to Windy Wellington. We all exchanged information over lunch regarding weeks of vacation time in our respective countries and, as always, the USA lost that competition by a huge margin.

At 1 pm we headed back to the mainland on the boat and I caught a train back to now very cold and windy Wellington. I was so tired and cold I barely dragged myself to bed for a nap.

That evening Mr. Gruezi and I had drinks with a colleague of his and then dinner at Logan Browne. We had the steak dinner and it was disappointing. The restaurant is in an old bank and so architecturally interesting, but I can't endorse the food. Mr. Gruezi thought it was fine, but he's not a foodie like me and will happily eat most things

Today we lolled about and had a late breakfast. Then I went off to the Te Papa Museum. I took a guided tour - the first one I've had to pay for ($14) this whole trip! It was fine. The museum is enormous and if you like natural history and learning about indigenous cultures def worth a visit. I kind of made myself go, despite not loving this sort of museum, as I'm interested in understanding the Maori culture and I still have a lot of unanswered questions in terms of overall context. The tour was just too broad for what I wanted to know so didn't really clear things up. Then the guide told a "story" about how a racist American serviceman was the cause of major riots in Wellington during WWII. I really do hope there are some facts to the story as it seemed an odd bit to add in and of course I got the stink eye from all the Kiwis on the tour due to my racist country. (The only thing probably worse than being an American abroad must be being a Brit abroad. They come off even worse somehow in all the history. The only place I've every felt the USA being appreciated was in Normandy. Anyway, I digress - sorry!)

You could spend a few days at Te Papa but I was feeling SO tired and without verve today that I spent under 2 hours including the hour tour. It's not really my kind of thing in general (I'm more of an art gallery type) but I was glad I went for a brief visit. And I think natural history buffs would find much to enjoy. Plus, the walk along the water to the museum is very nice indeed.

Then I went to Nancy's Embroidery Shop (it must be famous as my taxi driver knew it immediately!) which sells wool and fabric of every sort for crafters like me. I didn't buy any wool, but did get some fabrics with Maori and NZ inspired designs. I mostly bought from the sale bins as fabric here is expensive relative to home. I will probably regret not buying wool but perhaps I'll still find something before we head home.

Then I met Mr. Gruezi for lunch at Shed 5 which is in an old boathouse and right on the water. The rain stopped and the sun came out and we had a very pleasant lunch in this charming and friendly spot.

Now I've again collapsed into bed. We have a late dinner tonight at Orteaga (sp?) which we were going to cancel but everyone seems to rave about it so we decided to skip dinner tomorrow night instead. We certainly have eaten very well these last few weeks!

Tomorrow we hope for some strolling weather so we can experience a bit more of the city before we leave for Auckland and Waiheke Island.

Gruezi interesting about Logan Brown. It does have a reputation as being a top restaurant for foodies, although I think the original owners Logan and Brown are off doing other things now. They have done a couple of TV shows where they have gone from North Cape to the Bluff catching fish, shooting deer, getting crayfish, etc and doing cooking programs around what they have caught.

Hi, Gruezi,

What a shame about Logan Brown's. I think Nelsonian has hit the nail on the head, though.

And what a shame I was not able to get in touch with you before yesterday. I did consider contacting the hotel but didn't think they would be able to put me in touch with the right American lady! I wonder if your helpful concierge was Jason? Anyway, it sounds as if you had a busy day yesterday and then again today. I am sorry the weather changed from the beautiful day Wednesday to what we have experienced the last couple of days. Not sure what is in store for tomorrow yet. Brrr, no wonder it is cold - 13 degrees! Tomorrow, according to my phone, is going to be cloudy with some sun. Bit of a cold night though! Enjoy Waiheke Island.

I can't imagine why you're tired gruezi

I hope you've sampled Kapiti ice cream. OMG. How it took me so long to discover it is a mind-boggling mystery. Heaven.

The only thing probably worse than being an American abroad must be being a Brit abroad>>

lol gruezi - we've never had much trouble but perhaps I've got a thick skin. Oddly, one of the places in which Brits get the best welcome is Germany, where virtually everyone i've ever met has been decidedly pro-british.

anyway, I'm enjoying the tales from your trip very much. I can't compare notes about Logan Brown as for our one evening meal in Wellington, we met up for dinner with our b&B hostess and some old friends of hers at The Fisherman's Table on Oriental Bay, which seemed to be a bit of a local institution. I just looked it up on google to check the name and sadly it's closed!

Anyway as I write this you are hopefully asleep and gathering your energy for tomorrow. hope you have another great day.

Hi Fodors friends. Nice some of you are still traveling along with us.

Dottie - we have been well taken care of by a vivacious and attentive young woman at concierge named Amelia Patterson.

Last night we had a wonderful evening at Ortega Fish Shack. Loved the warm and cozy decor and polished steel and wood bar. Food was delicious - I had a white fish with a coconut and coriander sauce and Mr. Gruezi had grilled salmon. Crepes for him and pear soufflé for me for dessert. Both were really good. Great spot with friendly service and very memorable food.

We woke today to absolutely beautiful weather and walked the Orient Parade along the sparkling waterfront for an hour or so and then backtracked to "climb" Mt. Victoria. Gorgeous views from there.

Then we walked over to Cuba Street to browse the shops. Had a small lunch at Floriditas which has a really wonderful multigrain bread they make on site.

Then, and I do blame Mel for this, we stopped for Kapiti ice cream. I had the passionfruit and my husband had blackberry. Very refreshing and delicious.

More browsing and strolling in the sun and now back at the hotel to pack, rest, maybe, ahem, some exercise?

So glad to see Wellington one last day in all her glory! I will miss this perfect little city and the friendly and welcoming people.

Off to Waiheke tomorrow and tonight a ritual sacrifice to the weather gods.

Still following too. Thanks for posting. Wellington was never on my radar for the oft discussed NZ getaway we keep on the backburner for the perfectly timed airfare sale. It is now.

Always happy to assist in the fattening up of others gruezi.

Shame on you for not visiting NZ yet Clifton! I see cheap fares from your neck of the woods on a regular basis...then cringe when I look up fares from Perth. We can't seem to get over there for under $1,100.

Hi, gruezi,

My pleas to the weather gods worked! You got to see Wellington at its almost-perfect best, and I have managed to get some gardening done! I am pleased you enjoyed Wellington as many people do tend to discard it as just a place to catch the ferry from / to.

I must add Ortega's to the list of places at which to dine before we leave Wellington for Havelock North.

I agree about Kapiti Ice cream, Mel. I particularly like one of their ice-creams on a stick - curses, I've not had it for such a long time I've forgotten what it is. Just located it on their website - Passionfruit and Yoghurt Ice cream with the Raspberry and White chocolate a close second. In fact, I just might have to go buy some tomorrow morning!

<i>Shame on you for not visiting NZ yet Clifton</i>

I know, I know. We always think we're saving the more "possible" places for when we can't find the time or funds to do the big excursion. We were the same about traveling closer to home in the US. And then didn't go hardly any place in the US.

We've been without WIFI on Waiheke Island but are having a lovely time hiking (and eating and drinking wine).

Will catch up with you all at the airports tomorrow.

Sad to go but also know home is calling... Gruuuuueeeziiiii...