Australia Vacation Sept 2014: Focus on WA
Dec 1st, 2014, 04:18 PM
#22
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Mel - I can't speak for all the Salitage units but it would a waste for one couple to stay in the unit we rented , which had two bedrooms and two ensuite bathrooms. Of course, if the couple was not on speaking terms, it could be a different story 
Dec 29th, 2014, 08:30 AM
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It’s the Christmas-New Year break - finally a chance to finish up this trip report!
So....on Saturday, Sept. 13, we awoke to a beautiful morning with sun filtering through the mist rising from the valley below our unit at the Salitage Winery. It was so pretty that, before making ourselves breakfast, we decided to take a walk along the edge of the vineyard to the top of the hill nearby There we were rewarded by an expansive view of surrounding vineyards and farms. Laurenzo scanned for birds of course.
In Pemberton that morning, we stopped at the bakery and then at the Holy Smoke Café and Finewood Gallery to pick up items for a picnic lunch. While the ladies shopped at the bakery, I strolled across the street to take a closer look at the old steam locomotive displayed on the green. At the Finewood Gallery we admired beautiful (and very expensive) furniture made from local timber.
Then we set off for Northcliffe en route to Windy Harbour near Cape D’Entrecasteaux on the coast. As we had been advised, Windy Harbour was a very small settlement with no eating establishments – hence the need to pack a lunch. There was a sizeable parking lot near the beach, but it was virtually empty and there was no one else around. We took a stroll around the rocky headland and beach before heading back to the car and driving up to the nearby national park at Cape D’Entrecasteaux. After admiring the view at the Tookalup lookout, Laurenzo and I set off on the cliff top walk to the cape, about a mile away – the girls met us there in the car. The cape offered sweeping views east and west along the coast, and, looking inland, we could see the granite dome of Mt Chudalup, which we would climb later that day.
Salmon Beach, just to the west of the cape, had a nice picnic area with tables shaded under an open shelter. As in other places, we had the place to ourselves as we enjoyed our Pemberton bakery bread and Holy Smoke cheese and sausage. After a lonely stroll along the pristine beach, we headed inland to climb Mt Chudalup just off the road back to Northcliffe. The climb to the open granite summit was about a mile in length and pretty easy. From the top, we looked over the vast wetland area behind the cape and the ocean beyond.
We timed our return to Salitage that afternoon to arrive in time for wine-tasting at the cellar door. Pouring for us that afternoon was the owner’s daughter, Sarah who explained that Salitage is an acronym for the owner’s children SArah, LIsa, TAmara and GErard. That evening, we took our only other option for dinner besides Sadie's restaurant – pub grub at the Pemberton Hotel. It was a Saturday night and the place was packed with people from all over watching with disappointment as Freemantle lost to Port Adelaide in the Australian Rules Football semifinal.
So....on Saturday, Sept. 13, we awoke to a beautiful morning with sun filtering through the mist rising from the valley below our unit at the Salitage Winery. It was so pretty that, before making ourselves breakfast, we decided to take a walk along the edge of the vineyard to the top of the hill nearby There we were rewarded by an expansive view of surrounding vineyards and farms. Laurenzo scanned for birds of course.
In Pemberton that morning, we stopped at the bakery and then at the Holy Smoke Café and Finewood Gallery to pick up items for a picnic lunch. While the ladies shopped at the bakery, I strolled across the street to take a closer look at the old steam locomotive displayed on the green. At the Finewood Gallery we admired beautiful (and very expensive) furniture made from local timber.
Then we set off for Northcliffe en route to Windy Harbour near Cape D’Entrecasteaux on the coast. As we had been advised, Windy Harbour was a very small settlement with no eating establishments – hence the need to pack a lunch. There was a sizeable parking lot near the beach, but it was virtually empty and there was no one else around. We took a stroll around the rocky headland and beach before heading back to the car and driving up to the nearby national park at Cape D’Entrecasteaux. After admiring the view at the Tookalup lookout, Laurenzo and I set off on the cliff top walk to the cape, about a mile away – the girls met us there in the car. The cape offered sweeping views east and west along the coast, and, looking inland, we could see the granite dome of Mt Chudalup, which we would climb later that day.
Salmon Beach, just to the west of the cape, had a nice picnic area with tables shaded under an open shelter. As in other places, we had the place to ourselves as we enjoyed our Pemberton bakery bread and Holy Smoke cheese and sausage. After a lonely stroll along the pristine beach, we headed inland to climb Mt Chudalup just off the road back to Northcliffe. The climb to the open granite summit was about a mile in length and pretty easy. From the top, we looked over the vast wetland area behind the cape and the ocean beyond.
We timed our return to Salitage that afternoon to arrive in time for wine-tasting at the cellar door. Pouring for us that afternoon was the owner’s daughter, Sarah who explained that Salitage is an acronym for the owner’s children SArah, LIsa, TAmara and GErard. That evening, we took our only other option for dinner besides Sadie's restaurant – pub grub at the Pemberton Hotel. It was a Saturday night and the place was packed with people from all over watching with disappointment as Freemantle lost to Port Adelaide in the Australian Rules Football semifinal.
Jan 11th, 2015, 08:54 AM
#25
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Okay folks…slowly getting there! The next day (9/14/14) we packed up the car and set off for Albany, our base for the next three nights. We pretty much made it a straight run without any major stops along the way, just a stop for coffee in Walpole and lunch at the much-lauded Denmark Bakery in Denmark, where we all enjoyed one of their meat pies. It was busy place, obviously very popular. We made a short inland detour off the main road between Nornalup and Bow Bridge – can’t remember exactly why – where Laurenzo was delighted to spot several yellow-billed spoonbills, a new species to add to his life list.
Arriving in Albany, we backtracked a little to spend a few hours in nearby Torndirrup National Park, an area with magnificently rugged coastal scenery. The weather was a bit on and off – a little sun, then some mist and low cloud – but good enough to appreciate the beauty of the place. We stopped at several places for walks – the Blowholes (not blowing much that day), The Gap/Natural Bridge, and Stony Hill. Our last stop was at the Historic Whaling Station, Australia’s last operating whaling facility, open until the late 1970’s. It was late so we didn’t tour the station, instead walking out on the breakwater close by for a good perspective.
Back in Albany we found our B&B, the Dunmoylen House, conveniently located within easy walking distance from town. It looked down on port facilities with huge piles of wood chips and silos of wheat and canola seed. The owner, Cheryl, a very sweet lady, showed to our rooms, which were very comfortable, tastefully decorated and had ensuite bathrooms. That evening it was a delicious dinner at Joop Thai in town, and then a couple of glasses of complimentary port while sitting around the gas fire in the lovely dining/living room at Dunmoylen.
Arriving in Albany, we backtracked a little to spend a few hours in nearby Torndirrup National Park, an area with magnificently rugged coastal scenery. The weather was a bit on and off – a little sun, then some mist and low cloud – but good enough to appreciate the beauty of the place. We stopped at several places for walks – the Blowholes (not blowing much that day), The Gap/Natural Bridge, and Stony Hill. Our last stop was at the Historic Whaling Station, Australia’s last operating whaling facility, open until the late 1970’s. It was late so we didn’t tour the station, instead walking out on the breakwater close by for a good perspective.
Back in Albany we found our B&B, the Dunmoylen House, conveniently located within easy walking distance from town. It looked down on port facilities with huge piles of wood chips and silos of wheat and canola seed. The owner, Cheryl, a very sweet lady, showed to our rooms, which were very comfortable, tastefully decorated and had ensuite bathrooms. That evening it was a delicious dinner at Joop Thai in town, and then a couple of glasses of complimentary port while sitting around the gas fire in the lovely dining/living room at Dunmoylen.
Jan 25th, 2015, 06:35 AM
#26
just found this, Ralph.
most interesting report for someone who has WA on the far radar.
what were the temps like in September? I know that Mel hates the WA summer - how hot was it when you were there?
most interesting report for someone who has WA on the far radar.
what were the temps like in September? I know that Mel hates the WA summer - how hot was it when you were there?
Jan 25th, 2015, 05:07 PM
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Hi Ralph. Have just read your travel log. I live in Busselton so have been to most of the places and am glad you enjoyed it. Did you visit the Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk? It's located on the side trip you made from Nornalup to Bow Bridge. It's quite spectacular to walk among the tops of the gigantic Tinglewood trees.
Keep smiling.
Keep smiling.
Jan 29th, 2015, 05:09 PM
#28
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annig: daytime temperatures were lovely in September when we were there. Nights were chilly but not freezing. Apart from the storm in Perth the day after our arrival, weather was mostly fine.
Aussiefolk: we were conflicted about the treetop walk and didn't end up doing it unfortunately . Travel companion Laurenzo wasn't happy with heights , like when we did the Otway Fly with him back in 2012.
Realize I still have the remaining three days to cover! Stay tuned.
Aussiefolk: we were conflicted about the treetop walk and didn't end up doing it unfortunately . Travel companion Laurenzo wasn't happy with heights , like when we did the Otway Fly with him back in 2012.
Realize I still have the remaining three days to cover! Stay tuned.
Feb 1st, 2015, 01:55 PM
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Monday, Sept. 15. After a hearty continental breakfast at Dunmoylen House, we struck out to the east for Waychinicup National Park and Cheynes Beach, about 50 km east along the coast from Albany. Following the main road – Route 1, which goes right around the perimeter of Australia – we gave wide berth to a number of huge road trains transporting lumber, woodchips and grain to port. We dodged a huge kangaroo (one of the few we saw on this trip) just as we approached the park.
The draw card for Waychinicup (at least for Laurenzo) was birding – two species of rare bird, the noisy scrubbird and western bristlebird, are found in the park. Or so they say! We hiked the loop from the caravan park through the scrub to the coastal headland and back and, although Laurenzo picked up a new bird or two, no noisy scrubbird or western bristlebird was to be seen. Lunch that day was a packaged meat pie from the Cheynes Beach caravan park store – our only option for food.
We took a less direct route back to Albany in the afternoon. The ladies did some gift shopping in town, and then, around sunset, we took a nice walk part way around Lake Seppings, another birding locale just northwest of town.
That night we opted for dinner at Lime 303 Restaurant. We didn’t have a reservation so, considering there were only a few tables occupied, we were quite puzzled to learn that they were booked out and could only offer us the bar menu. Being put off by the pretentiousness of the place, we almost left, but in the end gave in and ordered from the bar menu, sitting at table in the bar area. Laurenzo and I had an “Icelandic Hot Dog” (very good), an odd menu item I thought being this far from the North Atlantic.
The draw card for Waychinicup (at least for Laurenzo) was birding – two species of rare bird, the noisy scrubbird and western bristlebird, are found in the park. Or so they say! We hiked the loop from the caravan park through the scrub to the coastal headland and back and, although Laurenzo picked up a new bird or two, no noisy scrubbird or western bristlebird was to be seen. Lunch that day was a packaged meat pie from the Cheynes Beach caravan park store – our only option for food.
We took a less direct route back to Albany in the afternoon. The ladies did some gift shopping in town, and then, around sunset, we took a nice walk part way around Lake Seppings, another birding locale just northwest of town.
That night we opted for dinner at Lime 303 Restaurant. We didn’t have a reservation so, considering there were only a few tables occupied, we were quite puzzled to learn that they were booked out and could only offer us the bar menu. Being put off by the pretentiousness of the place, we almost left, but in the end gave in and ordered from the bar menu, sitting at table in the bar area. Laurenzo and I had an “Icelandic Hot Dog” (very good), an odd menu item I thought being this far from the North Atlantic.
Feb 1st, 2015, 02:14 PM
#30
Hi Ralph -
You're the only other person I know who's been to Waychinicup! Few Aussies seem to even know about it, but we've been a few times and find the inlet fascinating. One year we watched a whale and her calf play in the inlet for hours.
About those empty tables in the restaurant - we see this all the time - it's not unusual here - when a table is booked, it's booked for the night, the restaurant won't try to fit people in before the booking. It's a practice that seems odd to us too especially since we can usually be in and out before the time of the booking (of course that depends on how fast service is and service here can be pretty darn pokey).
WA as a whole doesn't seem interested in turning tables, which can be good, or bad, depending on if you have a booking or not.
You're the only other person I know who's been to Waychinicup! Few Aussies seem to even know about it, but we've been a few times and find the inlet fascinating. One year we watched a whale and her calf play in the inlet for hours.
About those empty tables in the restaurant - we see this all the time - it's not unusual here - when a table is booked, it's booked for the night, the restaurant won't try to fit people in before the booking. It's a practice that seems odd to us too especially since we can usually be in and out before the time of the booking (of course that depends on how fast service is and service here can be pretty darn pokey).
WA as a whole doesn't seem interested in turning tables, which can be good, or bad, depending on if you have a booking or not.
Feb 3rd, 2015, 12:45 PM
#31
thanks, Ralph. We like Autumn holidays [which are Spring"Down under"]
Mel - sounds as if what the restaurants in WA are charging is enabling this profligate policy. most places have realised that more bums on seats = bigger profits.
Mel - sounds as if what the restaurants in WA are charging is enabling this profligate policy. most places have realised that more bums on seats = bigger profits.
Feb 8th, 2015, 08:55 AM
#33
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Mel - thanks for setting me straight on the table booking - don't think I've seen that practice elsewhere in Aus. And thanks for the Waychinicup recommendation - I like going to places off the beaten path. And annig - spring down under is a good time to for most of the country - I wouldn't hesitate for a moment about going there then. Okay, back to the report.....
Tuesday, Sept 16 was another fine, clear and warm day. We went back to Lake Seppings just after breakfast, this time doing the level 3 km walk right around the lake and spending time at the bird hide part way ‘round. After a brief stop at Middleton Beach, we took the lovely drive along the coast up Mount Clarence, taking in the ANZAC memorial at the summit as well as the spectacular views over King George Sound – sparkling blue water, distant headlands, huge ships at anchor. It seemed a very appropriate spot for remembering the ANZACs, the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who fought in WW1. Albany was the departure point for thousands, and sadly, the last place in Australia many would see.
We enjoyed a nice lunch at Dylans on the Terrace, a short walk down the street from our B&B. The place is very popular and was very busy that day, so busy that we had to split up with couples at separate tables.
Taking another excellent recommendation from Mel as well as our B&B host, we next drove east to visit Two Peoples Bay and Little Beach. We had heard that Little Beach was one of Australia’s best-kept secrets, and it did not disappoint. What an incredible place (!) – crystal clear turquoise water, clean white sand interspersed with giant granite boulders all framed by rugged granite hills and headlands. We spent at least an hour there taking it in and taking photos. Incredibly, we had it all to ourselves.
http://www.news.com.au/travel/travel...-1226899438928
Back in town that evening, we returned to Dylans for dinner – money well spent.
Tuesday, Sept 16 was another fine, clear and warm day. We went back to Lake Seppings just after breakfast, this time doing the level 3 km walk right around the lake and spending time at the bird hide part way ‘round. After a brief stop at Middleton Beach, we took the lovely drive along the coast up Mount Clarence, taking in the ANZAC memorial at the summit as well as the spectacular views over King George Sound – sparkling blue water, distant headlands, huge ships at anchor. It seemed a very appropriate spot for remembering the ANZACs, the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who fought in WW1. Albany was the departure point for thousands, and sadly, the last place in Australia many would see.
We enjoyed a nice lunch at Dylans on the Terrace, a short walk down the street from our B&B. The place is very popular and was very busy that day, so busy that we had to split up with couples at separate tables.
Taking another excellent recommendation from Mel as well as our B&B host, we next drove east to visit Two Peoples Bay and Little Beach. We had heard that Little Beach was one of Australia’s best-kept secrets, and it did not disappoint. What an incredible place (!) – crystal clear turquoise water, clean white sand interspersed with giant granite boulders all framed by rugged granite hills and headlands. We spent at least an hour there taking it in and taking photos. Incredibly, we had it all to ourselves.
http://www.news.com.au/travel/travel...-1226899438928
Back in town that evening, we returned to Dylans for dinner – money well spent.
Feb 8th, 2015, 04:21 PM
#34
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Wednesday, Sept 17 was our last full day in WA. It was another sparkling day, and a great time and place to celebrating a fifty-something birthday. We left Albany very impressed with its magnificent coastal scenery and all there was to see and do; indeed it would have been nice to have had a couple more days there.
From Albany we headed north and east on Chester Pass Rd toward the Sterling Range, mountains clearly visible on the northern horizon as we left the city. Getting closer, we were treated to picturesque vistas of yellow fields of canola with mountain peaks looming behind. Interestingly, the Sterling Range is one of the very few places in all of WA where snow can be experienced in winter. On this warm spring day, it was certainly out of the question.
After entering the Sterling Range National Park we turned west on the unsealed Sterling Range Drive, which traverses most of the park east to west. We stopped at several lookouts along the way to enjoy the scenery. Several trails invitingly led from the road up various rocky peaks. Signs along the road indicated numbat release areas alerting us to the possibility of seeing one of these rare animals. Alas, although we fleetingly saw movement in the bush on a couple of occasions, we never were certain of having seen the elusive numbat.
Leaving the Sterlings, we turned west on Salt River Rd toward the town of Cranbrook and, from there, drove north on the main road toward Perth. Along the way, we stopped at the Kojunup Country Kitchen for lunch. Our nice lady server surprised me with a birthday scone complete with candle, a nice touch. As we continued North, seas of bright yellow canola surrounded us in all directions. In Perth, we checked in at the Aurum Apartments near the airport, then met up at the Belmont Hotel for dinner with old Sydney friends now living in Perth. The food at this pub was excellent.
We said our goodbyes to our travel friends Laurenzo and B-A early the next morning as they departed for Darwin to visit Kakadu. Then, after returning the car, CJ and I flew to Brisbane to see family and friends in southeast Queensland.
From Albany we headed north and east on Chester Pass Rd toward the Sterling Range, mountains clearly visible on the northern horizon as we left the city. Getting closer, we were treated to picturesque vistas of yellow fields of canola with mountain peaks looming behind. Interestingly, the Sterling Range is one of the very few places in all of WA where snow can be experienced in winter. On this warm spring day, it was certainly out of the question.
After entering the Sterling Range National Park we turned west on the unsealed Sterling Range Drive, which traverses most of the park east to west. We stopped at several lookouts along the way to enjoy the scenery. Several trails invitingly led from the road up various rocky peaks. Signs along the road indicated numbat release areas alerting us to the possibility of seeing one of these rare animals. Alas, although we fleetingly saw movement in the bush on a couple of occasions, we never were certain of having seen the elusive numbat.
Leaving the Sterlings, we turned west on Salt River Rd toward the town of Cranbrook and, from there, drove north on the main road toward Perth. Along the way, we stopped at the Kojunup Country Kitchen for lunch. Our nice lady server surprised me with a birthday scone complete with candle, a nice touch. As we continued North, seas of bright yellow canola surrounded us in all directions. In Perth, we checked in at the Aurum Apartments near the airport, then met up at the Belmont Hotel for dinner with old Sydney friends now living in Perth. The food at this pub was excellent.
We said our goodbyes to our travel friends Laurenzo and B-A early the next morning as they departed for Darwin to visit Kakadu. Then, after returning the car, CJ and I flew to Brisbane to see family and friends in southeast Queensland.
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