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And yet another Oz itinerary

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And yet another Oz itinerary

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Old Jun 7th, 2005, 02:15 PM
  #21  
 
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Sally, I deliberately didn't touch ketchup I saw proffered around US because like Neil, I thought it was similar to our tomato sauce. You mean yours is WORSE!! Would never sully a good hamburger with it, bacon/egg are optional extras for which you're charged but the beetroot (tinned of course) is part of it.
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Old Jun 7th, 2005, 04:29 PM
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Well, back to the original questions...Don't bypass Canberra. It's a wonderful city with lots to see and do--the National Gallery of Art, the National Museum of Australia, the Australian War Memorial, Questicon, the science museum, Namadji National Park, Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve, etc...
I like Port Douglas, so that's where I'd recommend to stay. Even though you come from Hawaii, there's only one Great Barrier Reef, so you must plan to do some snorkeling or diving. If you want a snorkel-only tour, I highly recommend Wavelength. I also highly recommend the Skyrail to Kuranda but NOT the train to Kuranda. The train is crowded with tourists and unless you are lucky enough to get a seat next to a window, you don't see much.
We'll be in Australia the same time as you, however, in different parts. Hope we both have a great time.
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Old Jun 7th, 2005, 07:00 PM
  #23  
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We are not from Hawaii, we are from Seattle, also Alaska. Also LA, Edinburgh, Portland... wait a minute... where the <i>hell</i> are we from...?

Canberra will be visited if it works with the rest of the itinerary. With only 17 days in the country priorities are needed.

But I have to confess: one of the (okay, not that many, but a couple) books I'm reading to prepare for Oz and Africa is Bill Bryson's book about Australia. His description of Canberra is, well... not the most flattering, let's leave it at that. Not that I hold his opinion in any great esteem, but, well...
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Old Jun 7th, 2005, 11:28 PM
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Gardyloo - As a Canberran I admit to bias, but I felt Bryson's dismissive comments on Canberra reflected sloppy preparation and research.

He's also, for a millionaire, very cheap. That's OK, but there are ways (that millions of backpackers can tell you about) to have a great time on the cheap. They involve staying at hostels and networking with other travellers - but Bryson doesn't do that, as he seems to be solitary, perhaps even introverted, by nature.

To drive into Canberra and stop at one of the characterless hotels on Northbourne Avenue, then to hoof it into the uninpiring Civic Centre in search of a decent restaurant, is an easily avoidable mistake, but Bryson makes it anyway. Most Canberrans would have directed him to one of several lively, cosmopolitan eating districts a few kilometres away, but what does our intrepid traveller do? He asks a bunch of layabout skateboarders, or at least says he does, with the predictable result. I suspect that many of his subsequent comments were influenced by this unpromising (and self-inflicted) start.

He's also sold parts of his own country short. For example, he was too cheap to buy a day pass in Colonial Williamsburg, choosing to wander around aimlessly and thereby miss the highlights of a visit there. He also couldn't comment on the Vanderbilt &quot;chateau&quot; in Asheville, NC, because he couldn't bring himself to part with the price of an entrance ticket. Well, we could, and this much I can tell you - Bryson is in a much better position to fork out than we are. Not to mention the fact that he was researching a travel book sure to net him six, probably seven figures.

Bryson is a talented, often perceptive and sometimes uproariously entertaining, writer - but at his worst he just doesn't do justice to his subjects. His views on Canberra are mostly in direct conflict with the great majority of the hundreds of thousands of visitors who come here every year, and I urge you to take them with a grain of salt.
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Old Jun 8th, 2005, 05:58 AM
  #25  
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Upon re-reading my post I do want to apologise for what sounded pretty dismissive of Canberra, and I completely expected to see a note from you on the subject, Neil, when I revisited Fodors.

I actually agree with you about Bryson. I like his style, but as a documentarian he leaves a lot to be desired. His writings on the UK and US, to the extent that I'm familiar with the places he mentions, are more about the style than the substance. He is funny, though.

Anyway, we're going to play the Melbourne-Sydney portion of the pilgrimage by ear; if the weather's nice maybe we'll buzz around and through the mountains; or we may zig over to Canberra then zag up to Sydney. Don't know. The roads go everywhere, there are places to sleep and eat most everywhere; we will cope.

The beetroot thing still has me troubled, though. Bryson doesn't mention it, and if one is seeking proof of his lack of journalistic skill, there it is. He spends way too much time dissing the Ned Kelly legend, whereas even a mention of the beetroot/burger fetish would completely convince persons of Yankish or Pomish persuasions that Oz is indeed another planet.
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Old Jun 8th, 2005, 12:33 PM
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No need for apologies, Gardyloo - bagging Canberra is a national sport, and we locals have evolved thick skins. The rest of Australia sends its politicians to us for half the year, and then lays the blame on us - as in &quot;Canberra fouls up on immigration policy&quot;, &quot;Canberra raises fuel excise tax&quot; and so on.

It sounds like you've got a good handle on your route options and whichever you choose you won't go too far wrong.

I think Bryson is at his best when he aims barbs rather than compliments at his subjects, and his Australia book, like the one on England, was too tame for my liking, its concluding sentence strangely limp. For some reason he saves the satire for the land of his birth.

As for Australian cuisine - well, it had its roots in Britain and Ireland and has only overcome this inauspicious start in the last few decades. Beetroot in burgers is easily explained - it used to be a staple in salads, and your standard burger is just a beef patty with salad in a (toasted) bun.
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