17 days in NZ--1st timer looking for "must-see/do" suggestions
Jun 26th, 2012, 11:43 AM
#21
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I rate it as one of the top coastal drives in the country. But yes its a day trip, about three hours from Blenheim. These not much to do once there but the drive is the experience not the destination.
The others being from Golden Bay, pass Westhaven Inlet and across to the Westcoast and down to Anatori River Mouth pass. Also the road from Colville to Port Jackson on the Coromandel Pensiula.
But sadly most of the scenic coastal drives are on gravel roads so rental car policies disallow them so many tourists never get to experience them.
The others being from Golden Bay, pass Westhaven Inlet and across to the Westcoast and down to Anatori River Mouth pass. Also the road from Colville to Port Jackson on the Coromandel Pensiula.
But sadly most of the scenic coastal drives are on gravel roads so rental car policies disallow them so many tourists never get to experience them.
Jun 26th, 2012, 12:51 PM
#22
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ThomasW and Mel,
Thanks so much for your comments. I am taking to heart that we may be overstaying Akaroa and Oamaru. We may take that as it comes, depending on the weather, and how much we feel like just "hanging and relaxing". We are planning to stay 3 nights in Blenheim, and I will keep your suggestions.
Mel, a special thanks to you for your car rental suggestions off of another post.
LisaG
P.S. We just went to the backpacking store to get rain pants for wet-weather tramping!
Thanks so much for your comments. I am taking to heart that we may be overstaying Akaroa and Oamaru. We may take that as it comes, depending on the weather, and how much we feel like just "hanging and relaxing". We are planning to stay 3 nights in Blenheim, and I will keep your suggestions.
Mel, a special thanks to you for your car rental suggestions off of another post.
LisaG
P.S. We just went to the backpacking store to get rain pants for wet-weather tramping!
Jun 26th, 2012, 04:19 PM
#24
Lisa -
We lived in our rain pants this year. I layer mine over a pair of silk long underwear for warmth w/o bulk. Helps against the wind too. Wore them more this trip than ever in the past.
Just now was checking out LL Bean for some new gear. Time for a new Gortex and fleece, as mine are pretty ancient.
As for French Pass, here's my detailed description of the drive which we made last June. I agree with Thomas that it's a spectacular drive, but it's not generally on the wish list of first time visitors - took us nine trips to even discover it.
--------
Forty-five minutes after leaving Nelson, we turn off towards Elaine Bay, where we study a sign of myriad confusing options. It appears that French Pass is a one hour, 40 minute drive from here. We continue through pastures, rolling hills, and some areas completely devoid of trees due to logging. The road is typically curvy; it quickly becomes seriously narrow, clinging freakishly close to the edge of the road. The sheer drop offs on the left side of the car wig me out.
Spotting a track sign, we pull off and walk the Goat Hill Track, an undulating path that leads to an overlook and gives us a taste of what’s in store (30 minutes, one mile return). We continue our drive to Okiwi Bay, amazed at the 100 kilometer per hour speed limit signs back here; we’re barely doing 50 and still have to slow for the countless tight turns. Okiwi Bay is a quiet little community with pretty bay views, but bigger than either of us expected given the challenges of getting to it. We continue, driving 17 kilometers to Elaine Bay via the Moncreiff Scenic Reserve, passing the sad remains of a forest that has been logged to death. Apiaries are everywhere; we pass two men wrapped head to toe in protective clothing collecting bee hives and putting them on a truck. I wouldn’t want that job.
We reach a fork in the road; one tine leads to Elaine Bay, the other to French Pass. We head down to Elaine Bay first, finding yet another peaceful bayside community. We turn back and take the unsealed road to French Pass, soon dodging large rocks, worried we’ll puncture a tire, and wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We continue anyway, ever curious about what lies ahead. We break free of the forest, finding ourselves on roadway which has been cut into the side of the peninsula, its tentacles stretching deep into the sounds. We’re precariously perched on the edge of the terraced hillside, it’s freaky, but the views are spectacular. We’re surrounded by deep blue water, lush green pasture and perpetually bent trees. It’s so windy that I can’t open the car door at one point, not that I really want to, considering the drop off on the other side.
The road is paved again as we make our stomach dropping descent into the tiny village of French Pass, home to the narrow and treacherous stretch of water separating the mainland from D’Urville Island. If you’re looking for remote and isolated, this is the place. The wind is fierce and icy. We chat up a friendly Kiwi on the dock awaiting his boat to D’Urville Island; he’s going there to conduct pregnancy tests on sheep.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.wises.co.nz/l/Croisilles-...173.842485/16/
------------------
We lived in our rain pants this year. I layer mine over a pair of silk long underwear for warmth w/o bulk. Helps against the wind too. Wore them more this trip than ever in the past.
Just now was checking out LL Bean for some new gear. Time for a new Gortex and fleece, as mine are pretty ancient.
As for French Pass, here's my detailed description of the drive which we made last June. I agree with Thomas that it's a spectacular drive, but it's not generally on the wish list of first time visitors - took us nine trips to even discover it.
--------
Forty-five minutes after leaving Nelson, we turn off towards Elaine Bay, where we study a sign of myriad confusing options. It appears that French Pass is a one hour, 40 minute drive from here. We continue through pastures, rolling hills, and some areas completely devoid of trees due to logging. The road is typically curvy; it quickly becomes seriously narrow, clinging freakishly close to the edge of the road. The sheer drop offs on the left side of the car wig me out.
Spotting a track sign, we pull off and walk the Goat Hill Track, an undulating path that leads to an overlook and gives us a taste of what’s in store (30 minutes, one mile return). We continue our drive to Okiwi Bay, amazed at the 100 kilometer per hour speed limit signs back here; we’re barely doing 50 and still have to slow for the countless tight turns. Okiwi Bay is a quiet little community with pretty bay views, but bigger than either of us expected given the challenges of getting to it. We continue, driving 17 kilometers to Elaine Bay via the Moncreiff Scenic Reserve, passing the sad remains of a forest that has been logged to death. Apiaries are everywhere; we pass two men wrapped head to toe in protective clothing collecting bee hives and putting them on a truck. I wouldn’t want that job.
We reach a fork in the road; one tine leads to Elaine Bay, the other to French Pass. We head down to Elaine Bay first, finding yet another peaceful bayside community. We turn back and take the unsealed road to French Pass, soon dodging large rocks, worried we’ll puncture a tire, and wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We continue anyway, ever curious about what lies ahead. We break free of the forest, finding ourselves on roadway which has been cut into the side of the peninsula, its tentacles stretching deep into the sounds. We’re precariously perched on the edge of the terraced hillside, it’s freaky, but the views are spectacular. We’re surrounded by deep blue water, lush green pasture and perpetually bent trees. It’s so windy that I can’t open the car door at one point, not that I really want to, considering the drop off on the other side.
The road is paved again as we make our stomach dropping descent into the tiny village of French Pass, home to the narrow and treacherous stretch of water separating the mainland from D’Urville Island. If you’re looking for remote and isolated, this is the place. The wind is fierce and icy. We chat up a friendly Kiwi on the dock awaiting his boat to D’Urville Island; he’s going there to conduct pregnancy tests on sheep.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.wises.co.nz/l/Croisilles-...173.842485/16/
------------------
Jun 26th, 2012, 04:25 PM
#25
Regarding rental cars Lisa -if you're going to go off the main roads and explore extensively as we do, you're best renting an older car from APEX. These cars are well bumped and bruised and have already been put through their paces, yet they're well maintained and operate just fine.
Jun 26th, 2012, 08:55 PM
#26
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French Pass is really only worth doing if you have a whole day to spare and you feel like driving. It does not get much promotion, mainly because its a backwater and these no tourist operations there to pay for it. Its a little jewel which few ever discover.
I never seen the road in poor condition, just typical gravel. Were you there after a storm event?
If you think the road to Okiwi is narrow, I advise never to drive to Tennyson inlet. Thats a narrow road, in one spot it does have a tree in the middle of it. (Tennyson inlet is quite a sleepy little collection of holiday communities, its nice enough but should be far down the list of places to visit.)
If I have three days in Blem, I would probably spend them exploring the wineries, day trip to Nelson Lakes and a day Kayaking/Cruising in the Sounds.
On the way to Kenepuru Sounds these a little tourist venture which hires out small self drive motorboats, you basically follow the guide who has a bigger boat and he gives a commentary. I am not overly fond of the business because they go zooming pass me while I am anchored up fishing ruining my tranquility but it seems to be popular.
Thats it there.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...th_Island.html
I never seen the road in poor condition, just typical gravel. Were you there after a storm event?
If you think the road to Okiwi is narrow, I advise never to drive to Tennyson inlet. Thats a narrow road, in one spot it does have a tree in the middle of it. (Tennyson inlet is quite a sleepy little collection of holiday communities, its nice enough but should be far down the list of places to visit.)
If I have three days in Blem, I would probably spend them exploring the wineries, day trip to Nelson Lakes and a day Kayaking/Cruising in the Sounds.
On the way to Kenepuru Sounds these a little tourist venture which hires out small self drive motorboats, you basically follow the guide who has a bigger boat and he gives a commentary. I am not overly fond of the business because they go zooming pass me while I am anchored up fishing ruining my tranquility but it seems to be popular.
Thats it there.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...th_Island.html
Jun 26th, 2012, 09:34 PM
#27
I don't think there'd been a storm Thomas, but it was winter. The road wasn't what I'd consider rental car appropriate (sedan), but it certainly didn't hold us back. I'm sure the locals wouldn't give it a second thought, but visitors might.
Jun 26th, 2012, 09:54 PM
#28
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Yeah, I did mention that rental policy would probably not allow it. But they do not allow rentals onto any gravel roads. (Although I seen heaps in at Harwoods hole, and that road is quite rough for 2wds. Many people just take the risk I guess).
I only been to French pass once in winter, and never during bad weather, and from memory the place in the forests was a bit greasy but the rest of the road was in good condition. The road down to Port Ligar is normally in worst condition but I would not hesitate for a second to take a car down it.
Gravel roads are in a constant state of change, maybe the grader had just been through and exposed a bunch of stones.
I only been to French pass once in winter, and never during bad weather, and from memory the place in the forests was a bit greasy but the rest of the road was in good condition. The road down to Port Ligar is normally in worst condition but I would not hesitate for a second to take a car down it.
Gravel roads are in a constant state of change, maybe the grader had just been through and exposed a bunch of stones.
Jun 26th, 2012, 11:47 PM
#29
A person would miss a heck of a lot if they avoided gravel roads in NZ. Or fords for that matter.
Same for Western Australia - many of the national parks here are accessible via gravel road only. We just do what we do, and if something happens, we accept responsibility.
Same for Western Australia - many of the national parks here are accessible via gravel road only. We just do what we do, and if something happens, we accept responsibility.
Jun 26th, 2012, 11:52 PM
#30
I was half expecting the rental car company to charge us for the damage a Kea did to the rubber window molding while we were in Milford, but so far so good. Do they actually eat the rubber, or just peck at it?
Jun 28th, 2012, 02:17 AM
#32
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I support others' suggestions and wanted to add a bit. I agree you shouldn't spend 2 nights in Oamaru, maybe not even one, unless you are keen on seeing the blue penguins come in at night or will do other sightseeing in the area.
I don't mean to say that Oamaru or its environs are not worth seeing, it is just you have so few days and your nights in Oamaru come at the expense of missing out on other iconic scenery. For instance, I can't imagine not seeing Te Anau-Milford Sound, which you can even do as a one day combination coach and cruise tour out of Queenstown. You can arrange to take a scenic flight back on the return. My husband and I did this when we first visited Queenstown (about 15 years ago). We usually prefer to self-drive but in this case we were happy to let someone else do the driving (so we didn't have to worry about ice or snow on the roads). I really enjoyed the tour and still vividly and fondly remember our activities and the tour guide's commentaries. We also decided to extend the day tour by doing an overnight stay on Milford Sound (which didn't really enhance our experience).
I don't know what your plans for Wanaka are, but personally, I find the scenery flanking northbound State Highway 6 breathtakingly beautiful (this is the main road that goes from Wanaka, past Lake Hawea, through Haast Pass, through Mt. Aspiring National Park, and then over to the West Coast and finally up to the glaciers). However, as you will be here in winter, the road conditions will be subject to dramatic weather shifts. Also, don't miss the views from Wanaka's Rippon Winery.
On behalf of Oamaru, I should say it has a beautifully restored Victorian center, a blue penguin colony, and a beach where yellow-eyed penguins and fur seals can be seen. Enroute from Dunedin to Oamaru, you can stop to see the giant round boulders at Moeraki Beach, see the penguins or admire the stunning view at Katiki Point Lighthouse, or stop at scenic Shag Point.
I also agree three nights in Dunedin might be one too many unless you use one of these days to make a day trip down to the Catlins. Nugget Point would be a must (90 minutes from Dunedin). Wondrous Curio Bay (about two to two hours 15 minutes from Dunedin) is one of the best places to see yellow eyed penguins, particularly if you can see them at low tide, which will also give you access to the seashore, where you check out the remains of an ancient petrified forest. Keep in mind, if you stay to see the penguins during the afternoon at Curio Bay you will be driving back to Dunedin in the dark. Luckily, there is little traffic on this road at night.
Again, there is much to see and do in Dunedin, but an extra day here comes at the expense of seeing other places. One of your Dunedin days should be spent exploring the Otago Peninsula.
I hope the weather gods shine down on your trip. We had a week of sunny, warm, nearly windless days (though freezing nights) here in Dunedin, and then yesterday we finally received the storms that have been hitting most of the North and South Islands. So try to check the weather conditions as you go.
http://www.metservice.com/national/index
Thankfully, in winter (low-season) you needn't prebook every accommodation and can remain somewhat flexible, in case you need to make last-minute changes due to weather/road conditions. Unfortunately, ski areas such as Wanaka and Queenstown do get crowded, so you probably should prebook Wanaka.
If the road conditions are okay and you end up spending just one night in Oamaru, consider taking the inland scenic detour to Christchurch/Akaroa (Highway 83 to Highway 8 that goes through Waitaki Valley, Mackenzie District, past Mt. Cook Outlook, etc.) You can spend the night in Twizel or Lake Tekapo.
Akaroa is a picturesque town and its Hector's Dolphins are delightful, but I wouldn't spend two nights there if it were my first trip to New Zealand (again, so much else to see). I guess you want to break up the long drive to Kaikoura by staying somewhere in the area, but keep in mind the drive down into Akaroa from the main highway can be a bit demanding (winding narrow road). We drove there in thick fog.
Good luck and have a great time!
I don't mean to say that Oamaru or its environs are not worth seeing, it is just you have so few days and your nights in Oamaru come at the expense of missing out on other iconic scenery. For instance, I can't imagine not seeing Te Anau-Milford Sound, which you can even do as a one day combination coach and cruise tour out of Queenstown. You can arrange to take a scenic flight back on the return. My husband and I did this when we first visited Queenstown (about 15 years ago). We usually prefer to self-drive but in this case we were happy to let someone else do the driving (so we didn't have to worry about ice or snow on the roads). I really enjoyed the tour and still vividly and fondly remember our activities and the tour guide's commentaries. We also decided to extend the day tour by doing an overnight stay on Milford Sound (which didn't really enhance our experience).
I don't know what your plans for Wanaka are, but personally, I find the scenery flanking northbound State Highway 6 breathtakingly beautiful (this is the main road that goes from Wanaka, past Lake Hawea, through Haast Pass, through Mt. Aspiring National Park, and then over to the West Coast and finally up to the glaciers). However, as you will be here in winter, the road conditions will be subject to dramatic weather shifts. Also, don't miss the views from Wanaka's Rippon Winery.
On behalf of Oamaru, I should say it has a beautifully restored Victorian center, a blue penguin colony, and a beach where yellow-eyed penguins and fur seals can be seen. Enroute from Dunedin to Oamaru, you can stop to see the giant round boulders at Moeraki Beach, see the penguins or admire the stunning view at Katiki Point Lighthouse, or stop at scenic Shag Point.
I also agree three nights in Dunedin might be one too many unless you use one of these days to make a day trip down to the Catlins. Nugget Point would be a must (90 minutes from Dunedin). Wondrous Curio Bay (about two to two hours 15 minutes from Dunedin) is one of the best places to see yellow eyed penguins, particularly if you can see them at low tide, which will also give you access to the seashore, where you check out the remains of an ancient petrified forest. Keep in mind, if you stay to see the penguins during the afternoon at Curio Bay you will be driving back to Dunedin in the dark. Luckily, there is little traffic on this road at night.
Again, there is much to see and do in Dunedin, but an extra day here comes at the expense of seeing other places. One of your Dunedin days should be spent exploring the Otago Peninsula.
I hope the weather gods shine down on your trip. We had a week of sunny, warm, nearly windless days (though freezing nights) here in Dunedin, and then yesterday we finally received the storms that have been hitting most of the North and South Islands. So try to check the weather conditions as you go.
http://www.metservice.com/national/index
Thankfully, in winter (low-season) you needn't prebook every accommodation and can remain somewhat flexible, in case you need to make last-minute changes due to weather/road conditions. Unfortunately, ski areas such as Wanaka and Queenstown do get crowded, so you probably should prebook Wanaka.
If the road conditions are okay and you end up spending just one night in Oamaru, consider taking the inland scenic detour to Christchurch/Akaroa (Highway 83 to Highway 8 that goes through Waitaki Valley, Mackenzie District, past Mt. Cook Outlook, etc.) You can spend the night in Twizel or Lake Tekapo.
Akaroa is a picturesque town and its Hector's Dolphins are delightful, but I wouldn't spend two nights there if it were my first trip to New Zealand (again, so much else to see). I guess you want to break up the long drive to Kaikoura by staying somewhere in the area, but keep in mind the drive down into Akaroa from the main highway can be a bit demanding (winding narrow road). We drove there in thick fog.
Good luck and have a great time!
Jun 28th, 2012, 04:38 AM
#33
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Dianamtina,
What a great list of suggestions. I agree with keeping the Oamaru (and other places on the coast) flexible. We will plan those as we go depending on the weather conditions and our mood.
Many thanks,
LisaG
What a great list of suggestions. I agree with keeping the Oamaru (and other places on the coast) flexible. We will plan those as we go depending on the weather conditions and our mood.
Many thanks,
LisaG
Jul 9th, 2012, 08:33 PM
#34
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I am an Aucklander, so have a soft spot for some NI locations (Tongariro National Park is worth a visit in the winter), but I won't challenge any of the excellent advice provided above.
Just a few little suggestions, based on our previous travels down south:
- Continuing the car discussion... Someone above suggested using Apex. We hired from them in Queenstown and would recommend them. I'm not sure about going for an older model however. The good thing about Apex is you tend to get the vehicle you request, or at least that was the case when we last used them. If you don't like big 4x4s go for the 4x4 wagon option (a Subaru legacy) - will give you a bit more grip.
- For food just outside Queenstown, I'd recommend the restaurant at Amisfield winery. In Arrowtown, Saffron's worth a look. I think the latest restaurant of note to open in Queenstown itself is Rata (Josh Emett). I haven't been but my sister visited last month and rated it highly.
Have fun.
Just a few little suggestions, based on our previous travels down south:
- Continuing the car discussion... Someone above suggested using Apex. We hired from them in Queenstown and would recommend them. I'm not sure about going for an older model however. The good thing about Apex is you tend to get the vehicle you request, or at least that was the case when we last used them. If you don't like big 4x4s go for the 4x4 wagon option (a Subaru legacy) - will give you a bit more grip.
- For food just outside Queenstown, I'd recommend the restaurant at Amisfield winery. In Arrowtown, Saffron's worth a look. I think the latest restaurant of note to open in Queenstown itself is Rata (Josh Emett). I haven't been but my sister visited last month and rated it highly.
Have fun.
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