ElendilPickle

The Dart River jet boat trip is pretty fantastic. We went up into Mt. Aspiring National Park, and our guide told us Lord of the Rings stories (he was a driver during filming), shared some Maori culture, and we had a really good time.

On the way back (we transferred to a small bus) the driver stopped in Paradise, and we got to see more Lord of the Rings filming sites.

Ian Brodie's Lord of the Rings Location Guide has directions and GPS coordinates for sites all over New Zealand. It's worth checking out.

Lee Ann

Diamantina

Lee Ann, that sounds like a great way of combining Lord of the Ring location viewing with a jet boat ride. I might try that trip the next time I'm in the neighborhood.

I did the Skippers Canyon Jet Boat, because I wanted to see the road and it fit into my schedule. I wasn't excited about going on its jet boat ride, but when we did it I was in hysterics. Such fun. Our jet boat driver also pointed out a Lord of the Rings filming location.

Diamantina

Malke, I just read that the West Coast Wildlife Centre in Franz Josef, which I mentioned as a place for seeing rare kiwis, will now have rare tuataras as well (in case you opt for a drive along the West Coast).
https://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/ne...ildlife-Centre

malke

Paulg: No offense taken!

Lee Ann: Thanks for the suggestions!

Diamantina: You've convinced me - Dunedin! There's a flight into Dunedin same price as to anywhere else. I also realize that I want less traveling, and more just being in a place.

So I'm thinking a trip could look like: Dunedin - Oamaru - Omarama - Lake Pukaki/Ohau - Wanaka (if the dates don't conflict with Warbirds) - Te Anau - QTN.

Not necessarily staying in all those spots. Could also fit in Mt. Cook or Lake Tekapi if we were up for more driving.

So stays could look like this:

Day 1-3 Dunedin (or a nearby farmstay)/3 nts

Day 4-6 Is Omarama of interest to stay? Or somewhere in that vicinity? If not, could drive onto Lake Pukaki or Ohau. Okay to just spend 1 or 2 nts somewhere, or a few different nights on the way to Te Anau, in efforts to break up the drive. Or could stay a nt in Arrowtown before going on to Te Anau. Or could stay longer further south. And, as I said, we could get Mt. Cook or Lake Tekapi in there, too. 3 nts

Day 7-9 Anau/2-3 nt

Day 10-12 QTN/3 nt

Whatcha think? Of course, nights can be shifted around if you have further suggestions.

Diamantina

Malke, I hope I wasn't appearing to insist on Dunedin. In fact, I thought I was shining a more favorable light on Nelson/Abel Tasman because of its warmer, drier, sunnier weather and variety; the West Coast because of a wide range of attractions (Pancake Rocks, Montieth's Brewery, Hokitika Gorge, glaciers, temperate rainforests, West Coast Wildlife Centre, Lake Matheson); and Kaikoura because of its whales, dolphins, fur seals, and location between mountains and rugged coastline.

Dunedin is not usually a first-time visitor's destination, unless they're interested in wildlife. The Otago Peninsula is beautiful and the city center, though busy, offers many attractions. No snow-capped mountains, many hills, yet close to the mountains of Central Otago and Te Anau (which is in Southland). You could quickly visit Dunedin to see penguins, fur seals, sea lions and albatrosses, maybe a Speight's Brewery Tour for your husband, before moving along to more scenic mountainous spots.

Your itinerary "Dunedin - Oamaru - Omarama - Lake Pukaki/Ohau - Wanaka (if the dates don't conflict with Warbirds) - Te Anau - QTN" would be fine, and you wouldn't have to drive too much. On this trip, I wouldn't recommend staying in Omarama or Lake Ohau. So your trip could look like this:

1 Dunedin
2 Dunedin
3 Oamaru
4 Tekapo (2 hours, 10 minutes from Oamaru to Tekapo, without stops)
5 Mt. Cook
6 Wanaka (2.5 hours from Mt. Cook to Wanaka)
7 Wanaka
8 Te Anau (3 hour drive from Wanaka to Te Anau, I think this would be your longest drive)
9 Te Anau (self-drive or tour to Milford Sound)
10 Queenstown (2 hours, 50 minutes Te Anau to Queenstown)
11 Queenstown
12 Queenstown
13 Leave

Traveling to Dunedin first would work. Avoid Dunedin March 29 through April 1 (Easter weekend) because of Ed Sheeran concerts (little accommodation available).

Oamaru is charming, a small city/large town, with a Victorian Precinct, Steampunk HQ, Bushy Beach wildlife viewing area, botanic garden, and its famous Blue Penguin Colony. If you'd like to see blue penguins swim ashore, you'd have to overnight here, as they swim ashore in the early evening, as the sun is going down and it's starting to get dark. The drive from Dunedin to Oamaru is beautiful in autumn and offers lots of interesting scenic stops (I could decribe them later). The direct drive on SH1 from Oamaru to Dunedin takes 100 minutes, but you could spend hours on this drive, stopping at various places, taking short walks, viewing wildlife, having lunch by the sea, etc.
http://www.penguins.co.nz/new-zealand/tours/
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html
http://www.stuff.co.nz/travel/destin...s-coolest-town

The drive through Waitaki Valley, between Oamaru and Omarama, offers more fall colors, pretty dams, and you could make a detour to the marvelous Elephant Rocks.
http://www.waitakinz.com/explore/elephant-rocks

Omarama doesn't have many attractions. Clay Cliffs are nearby and there are farmstays in this area.
https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/Attrac...th_Island.html

Lake Pukaki is stunning, a scenic stop at the intersection of the main highway (SH8) and the gloriously scenic road to Mt. Cook (SH 80). It takes 45 minutes to drive from Lake Pukaki to Mt. Cook village. Apart from from its scenic value, there's aren't many attractions here (lookout, Aoraki Salmon outlet and information centre, toilets) and only a few places to stay (cottages, lodges). It's close to the town of Twizel and High Country Salmon Farm, and about a 35 minute drive from Lake Tekapo.

Lake Ohau, like Tekapo and Pukaki, is a glacial lake. It's home to a small community of private homes, a few vacation rentals, a lodge, walking tracks. It's popular with retirees and folks from the coast who want an affordable holiday/weekend home inland (it's warmer in summer, offers nearby fishing, and, in winter, close to skiing). I think the closest grocery is in Twizel, about a half hour away. It shouldn't be high on a first time visitor's list of places to see, not because it isn't pretty, but because there are so many places that are more interesting, beautiful, fun, and with more tourist services.

Mt. Cook is generally considered more attractive and interesting than Lake Tekapo. I like Tekapo, especially at sunrise or sunset, when it's most serene. The views from Mt. John Observatory are impressive and the night skies are amazing (when the night is clear and the moon is not full). However, because it's on the main inland highway (SH8), Takapo's a lot busier during the day, with passing travelers stopping to use the toilet and take photos. Here's a link to a forum post about Mt. Cook:
http://www.fodors.com/community/aust...ook-or-not.cfm

These are two useful links for Milford Road (if you self-drive)
http://www.doc.govt.nz/Documents/par...-factsheet.pdf
https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/proj...to-milford.pdf

In addition to the usual hotel booking sites and Air BNB, you can also check www.holidayhouses.co.nz, and www.bookabach.co.nz

I'm going to offer tips for Dunedin in my next posting.

malke

Diamantina: This is so incredibly thorough! I think Dunedin will be perfect for my daughter. I'm going to continue looking into it, getting tickets, starting to hotel/bnb/etc. shop, and will get back. Thanks again so much for getting me on my way!

Diamantina

I just wanted to add this link to activity favored by lot of families and others visiting Queenstown:
https://www.realjourneys.co.nz/en/ex...urs/more-info/
I've not done it myself but it seems like something you'd all enjoy.

Diamantina

Here's my long posting about Dunedin.

Malke, March-April brings mostly mild weather. Still, bring water- and wind-resistant jackets for the south of the South Island, in case of unexpected wind and drizzle. A reminder: Dunedin/Otago Peninsula can be cold (as previously noted, similar to coastal Northern California or Oregon).

I suggested two days for Dunedin. Three days increases chances of good weather and allows you to see more, but would cut into the rest of your trip. By spending that third night in Oamaru, you could spend time in Oamaru and break up the drive to Tekapo. Shorter drives means being able to take your time and make frequent stops.

If arriving in Auckland, you might want to read this:
https://www.aucklandairport.co.nz/in...-from-overseas

The flight from Auckland to Dunedin takes 1 hour 45 minutes. If conditions are clear, a window seat on the plane's right side might yield distant views of the North Island's Mt. Taranaki and the South Island's Alps, including Mt. Cook.

The drive from Dunedin Airport into the city takes about 30 minutes, some of it on a multilane motorway. It's not difficult, but if you think you won't be up to it (due to sleep deprivation, fatigue, unfamiliarity with driving on the left), Super Shuttle will be waiting outside. Kiwi Shuttles is cheaper but must be booked in advance. Depending where you stay, you might not need a car for a day or two.

There are more rental car desks and much greater inventory at the airport than in the city. Though you won't find as many rental companies as you would at Christchurch Airport. For instance, no Apex. But you'll find these:
http://www.dunedinairport.co.nz/transport/#rentalcars
Budget, Avis, Thrifty, Europcar, and Rent a Dent also have outlets in downtown Dunedin, but because of less inventory they can sell out, especially on cruise ship days. Passengers stay between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. (more or less) and generally explore the city center or go on tours; some rent cars.
https://www.portotago.co.nz/assets/S...-Printable.pdf

I suggest you devote your arrival day to "downtime": relaxing, recharging your batteries for the busier days ahead. For the afternoon of your second day, I highly recommend the Elm Peninsula Encounters Tour to see Yellow Eyed Penguins, NZ Sea Lions, Fur Seals (lots of pups), Albatrosses, maybe a few Blue Penguins in nest boxes. You won't see whales or dolphins. This would be the most efficient use of your short time for seeing wildlife and the Otago Peninsula, and you can view wildlife without causing distress to the animals.

You'll want to be well-rested, as some uphill walking is required. Your husband might give this a pass if he doesn't enjoy walking or animals, which will save on costs as well. Their "lite" tour, which costs a little more, requires less walking. When I last did the Elm Tour, an older man (late 60s to early 70s) in our group paid for a "lite" tour, so the rest of us lucked out and saved some steps as well.

Prepare for three seasons in a day. Even a warm day will get colder as the sun goes down, or if the wind picks up. Dress in layers. You might want to bring knit gloves, scarf, hat or hoodie (also sold in souvenir shops or at airports). Wildlife viewing sites are on the rugged, windswept coast. Elm's nearly 6-hour tour starts in the afternoon, so bring snacks and water (food is also sold at the Albatross Centre).

A Monarch Cruise can be added (extra charge, because this is a separate company). It cruises to the harbor mouth, to seal-covered rocks below the Albatross Centre at Taiaroa Head (warm jackets and binoculars provided). The cruise is lovely when the harbor is calm, but when it's windy there's more albatross activity (they need wind for lift-off). The rest of your Elm group would continue to the Taiaroa Head lookout to search for albatrosses from land, outside the Albatross Centre—there would be an extra charge for viewing albatrosses from the glass enclosed viewing hide inside the Albatross Centre (owned by a charitable trust). If you take the cruise, you'd be picked up when done to continue with the tour. Here's Elm's video ad:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPXS7j16rIU
Yesterday's Monarch Cruise got a real treat:
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/o...-otago-harbour

Or you can drive yourselves to the Otago Peninsula looking for wildlife. The Otago Peninsula roads are curvy and narrow, with drops-offs, but highly scenic. The major roads, Portobello and Highcliff, are paved, but some of the smaller roads are gravel and dirt (but in good shape). Top "free" spots are Taiaroa Head/Pilot's Beach, Allens Beach, Sandfly Bay (steep sand dunes). Or you can drive to Pukekura Blue Penguins (admission fee), or Weller's Rock for the Monarch Cruise (charge), or Penguin Place (admission fee and some easy walking required). Penguin Place operates a rehab center for malnourished, sick or injured penguins of all kinds found from the Dunedin to Catlins coasts.

About NZ's penguins. The Yellow Eyed Penguin or "Hoiho", one of the world's rarest penguins, is solitary, anti-social, and unique to NZ. They're endangered and their numbers are dropping. Most of them live and breed on NZ's Subantarctic Islands. They swim out to sea at the crack of dawn, "forage between 2 – 25 km off shore, and dive up to 120 metres as many as 200 times a day."* They generally return to shore in the late afternoon. They'll often climb steep hillsides to their nests, taking the same path everyday. They're endearing. Little Blue Penguins or "Karora" are common, and found all around NZ's coastline. They generally swim ashore in large groups, known as "rafts", in the early evening, when the last light is on the horizon and it's getting dark. They're adorable. An almost genetically identical species is common around some parts of Australia. Both types of penguins are stressed by human presence, so you'd want to give them lots of space (you'll be here during moulting season when moulting penguins cannot swim out to sea, and they're quite stressed). You can read more about them here:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native...penguin-hoiho/
http://www.yellow-eyedpenguin.org.nz...-eyed-penguin*
http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native...enguin-korora/
http://www.penguins.co.nz/new-zealand/see/
While in Milford Sound, you might see Fiordland Crested Penguins or "Tawaki", though they're more commonly seen from July through November:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native...enguin-tawaki/

On the morning of your second day in Dunedin, you might visit one or more of the city center attractions. You husband might enjoy Speight's Brewery's Tour or their attractive pub. Their first tour is at noon (advisable to prebook). You'll want to see the Railway Station, NZ's most photographed building. Toitu Settlers Museum is next door and free, and has interesting, interactive displays. The Octagon is home to the Town Hall, Dunedin Public Art Gallery (free, and there's usually a child friendly exhibition), and St. Paul's Cathedral, modest in size but with a great wildlife-themed stained glass window (this coming weekend they're having a "Blessing of the Animals"—all animal welcome!).

You might want to drive to Baldwin Street, the world's steepest street. The Otago Museum has excellent natural history displays and an historic "Animal Attic"; admission is free, but there's a charge for the Planetarium and Children's Discovery World, which includes a butterfly house (with hundreds of butterflies).
http://otagomuseum.nz/whats-on/see/gallery/animal-attic
http://otagomuseum.nz/whats-on/see/g...outhern-people

The Botanic Garden is beautiful and its office freely dispenses to children feed for the ducks in the lower garden pond, the upper garden has an aviary with native birds (kaka, kea, kakariki). Common native birds, such as tui, bellbird and kereru, fly at liberty around the upper garden.

There are two large supermarkets with ample parking downtown: New World City Centre and Countdown. Each have large beer selections. You'll also find a good beer selection at Meenan's Wine & Spirits. While in Dunedin, your husband should try the local favorite, Emerson's:
https://emersons.co.nz/
Reportedly, 'Johnny Dangers" is currently NZ's most sought-after beer:
https://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/f...ealand-records

When driving from Dunedin to Oamaru. If it's a nice day, visit Orokonui Ecosanctuary's cafe in the morning (they open at 9:30 a.m.). If visiting the sanctuary itself, you'd want to be there for the morning takahe feeding. Orokonui's about a 10-minute drive above Port Chalmers (a Dunedin suburb). When leaving, you can continue on the road you came on and it will lead to the main highway (SH1). The road to the sanctuary is curvy, but scenic.
https://orokonui.nz/

Then get off the main highway (SH1) and take the scenic Coast Road from Warrington (at Blueskin Bay, Waitati) to Karitane (where it then rejoins SH1). Stop at Shag Point (fur seals and views) and at Koekohe Beach to see Moeraki Boulders.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-rec...boulders-walk/
You can also see penguins and fur seals at Katiki Pt. Lighthouse in Moeraki, but read this first:
https://www.odt.co.nz/regions/north-...mercy-visitors
Fleur's Place in Moeraki village is a famed cafe/restaurant. It's funky and casual, but reservations are suggested as it's popular.
http://www.fleursplace.com/

Let me know if you need recommendations on where to stay in Dunedin. There are several farmstays within 15 minutes drive from the city center. St. Clair Beach would be a graet place to stay as many accommodations have ocean views, you could walk a few steps to restaurants and cafes, a small grocery/convenience store is short walk away, and a bus from St. Clair Beach goes to or near city center tourist attractions. You'd love the Otago Peninsula, but you wouldn't want to drive on its roads just after arriving in NZ; they can be challenging even for the well-rested. There are also few restaurants, no supermarkets or petrol stations on the peninsula (there are many in the city, enroute).

malke

Diamantina:

Thanks so much for all of this detailed and clear information. I can just print this out and basically follow it like a map! Are you an actual travel writer? You should be! I really, really appreciate your help.

Still haven't purchased flights yet as I'm trying to more or less price out hotels for 12 nights, rental car (with drop-off fee), etc., and make sure we can afford this! I'll keep you posted!

Diamantina

Good luck with your travel plans. I hope it all works out. You chose a good time to visit, after peak travel times, but before major school holidays (April 14 though April 29), yet while the weather is still mild and the autumn colors have started to appear.

Don't forget the shorter Easter holiday from Good Friday March 30 through Tuesday April 3. Yes, Warbirds Over Wanaka takes place during this time.

Based on what you've described so far, I wouldn't book accommodation in downtown Dunedin. It would be too busy for you. Stick with St. Clair Beach or one of the farmstays between the airport and the city.