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Old Oct 23rd, 2003, 05:16 AM
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Yangtze River Cruise Yes or No

I am currently planning a trip that may include a Yangtze river cruise, for the end of August, 2004. I am not currently planning to travel with a group. I am debating the inclusion of a cruise, due to time limitations. I have taken many trips that included a cruise, and am no longer entertained simply because I get to sleep on a ship and have my meals cooked for me. I understand that most of the ships are relatively luxurious, but the sights are more important to me than being pampered. I can get that at most hotels at home. Last summer I took a river cruise through Russia on the Volga river, which I found boring. Most of the scenery was pine trees. I felt that we could have taken a few side trips out of Moscow or St. Petersburg and would have seen enough of the countryside to satisfy us. The only information that I was able to gather pre-trip was on travel sites such as Fodors, which only had glowing reports about it. I had a different perception.
We plan to see Beijing, Guilin, Xian and Shanghai. Adding the Cruise would add 2 flights and at least 4-5 days. My understanding is that the 3 Gorges area is a small part of the cruise and viewing is subject to weather conditions/visibility which is often poor.
Any thoughts or personal experience?
Also, is there a way to see the 3 Gorges without the cruise? Helicopter or speed boat from a nearby city?
Thanks for your help. Bob
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Old Oct 23rd, 2003, 10:48 AM
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It doesn't sound from your own description as if you'd be impressed by the cruise at all. Some of the ships are indeed, 'relatively' luxurious, given that you are in the middle of China, but not relative to cruise ships you may have experienced elsewhere. They are of the same general size and shape as those on the Nile, but less luxurious than many of those. Food and entertainment are modest.

Your assessment that the Three Gorges section of the trip is relatively brief is correct, and even there the scenery is not spectacular. Fortunately much of the extremely hideous waterside factoryscape and slum housing is being submerged. The main benefits of the cruise are novelty (but not to you, apparently), and a bit of peace and quiet, welcome in the middle of a long trip. But you are sealed in a pseudo-Western environment, and as with your remarks about Russia, there are much better ways to see the Chinese countryside close up.

The rest of your trip is already made up of well-known tourism destinations, and if you a going to Guilin, presumably you'll be on a half-day boat trip to Yangshuo as it is--perhaps a more pleasant boating experience, with more immediately impressive scenery.

If you are willing to add a few days, use them instead to visit some real countryside. There are numerous possible side trips from Beijing and Shanghai for instance, and in the case of Shanghai, neighbouring pleasant small towns with plenty to see and easy access to the countryside, such as Shaoxing.

Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
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Old Oct 26th, 2003, 05:01 AM
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I haven't done the cruise myself, so this is all conjecture, based on the 4 years I've been living in China hearing reports from people who have taken it. The above post sounds about right listing the pros and cons. The main highlight for most people is seeing the smaller villages, of which there are literally thousands that you could see without taking a cruise.

Here are some reasons people take the cruise and my thoughts:

* You hear over and over that it's "disappearing" and that this might be the "last chance" ever to do it, which adds a sense of urgency, which makes it seem like there MUST be something worth seeing if everyone is rushing to see it while they still have a chance. I think this is overstating things quite a bit. Basically, what they?re doing is building a huge damn that will raise the water level far above where it is now, covering many small villages. So what you?d ?miss? is touring the villages that will be covered over, and the view from the very, very bottom of the canyon, since the water will be much, much higher. But there are literally THOUSANDS of small villages you can visit in China (without the time & $$ commitment of a cruise), and, well, you can decide for yourself if you think the canyon is unmissable.

* A cruise sounds kind of luxurious. From what I?ve heard, almost all of the cruise ships are about what you?d consider American 2-star. Not that it?s exactly roughing it, but just keep it in mind ? it?s not the same standard as you would expect on a cruise anywhere else in the world.

I vote with the above poster - sounds like you'd be better off skipping the cruise.

P.S. When you to Guilin/Yangshuo, stay in Yangshuo instead of Guilin, and spend some time exploring the countryside and small villages around there - you can do this by bicycle if you're adventurous or by a golf cart sort of thing, which is what my mom and I did & loved it!
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Old Oct 26th, 2003, 05:20 AM
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one of my friends has jusst returned from a trip that included the cruise. They enjoyed it but said that the facilities were quite spartan.
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Old Oct 26th, 2003, 03:02 PM
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Thanks to all for taking the time to reply to my question. One thing that I am still curious about is availability to see the gorges on a day trip from one of the nearby cities. Speedboad?? Helicopter??
Thanks for your time.
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Old Oct 26th, 2003, 05:12 PM
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Lots of backpackers advocate just going to one of the same cities that the cruises use and just trying to hire a boat on your own. Would require lots of sign language, though, if you don't speak Chinese. It certainly is possible, however, to visit the gorges independently - backpackers do it all the time. I'm afraid I don't have any practical tips - maybe try lonelyplanet or a search on google (or reposting here with a different title).
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Old Oct 31st, 2003, 03:56 AM
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We just returned from a 15 day China trip without the cruise. This is not a long time to spend in China and we were happy to have spent it all on land and were not disappointed. Judging from your question, it would seem the other respondents have good advice.
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Old Nov 1st, 2003, 05:22 AM
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We just returned yesterday from a 21 day trip to China that included Beijing, Shanghai, a 4 day upstream Yangtze cruise, Xian, Guilin and Hong Kong. We had a great time and would recommend at least using the services of a local guide to enhance your experience.
On your specific question--the Yangtze area is important for Chinese history; I read two books before the cruise that really improved my understanding and appreciation of the area. If you are looking at the cruise as just a trip on the boat, by all means don't go. I really enjoyed the experience.

I will caution you that the end of August may not be the best time to go due to the heat--spring and fall are better. I enjoyed the terracotta warriors and walled city aspects of Xian but hated the terrible air pollution--if this will bother you you may want to cut your time there to a minimum. I also caution you about the red tape that exists with internal China flights. Our tour director handled the details but if not on a tour you should plan to spend a longer time than in the US in airports checking in and getting boarding passes. Several of our flights had long delays but we read or played cards.
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Old Nov 14th, 2003, 08:14 AM
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You don't say how long you will have which is relevant; however, from reading your post and getting a little feel for the type of traveler you are, I would suggest not doing the cruise but using those days to go to Lhasa, Tibet (depending on your total time.) We did both when we went and, by far, the better of the two was the opportunity to have a little experience of Tibet. I emphasis little. It was a marvelous window into a very different culture. The gorges were pretty but your assessment is pretty good. If you are interested in a more complete report and pictures of what we did, including Tibet go to www.janeandken.com and navigate to China.
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Old Nov 15th, 2003, 09:45 PM
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I took a river cruise last year(not luxury either, it was a Chinese cruise company). I thought it was worth it as I enjoyed the scenery of the extremely deep gorges, but some might not think it is so great especially since the water level has begun to rise since my cruise. I must say that it was extremely fascinating to see the small villages being disassembled brick by brick by local villagers who are not so excited to leave. One day of the cruise we got off the ship and took a small boat down a very narrow side gorge. That really was beautiful.
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