WHY INDIA, PART II, THAILAND AND NEPAL
Nov 17th, 2011, 11:35 PM
#244
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Friday Nov 18
Last night we had a 7:30 res at the roof top restaurant of the Udai Kothi Haveli. Oddly, it is located within a stone’s throw of where we ate the night before. While not waterside, the roof is high enough to give a grand view of the lake and the shimmering lights at night time.
The entrance to the hotel is dramatic. There is a small circular drive and an arch over the front door shimmering with mirrors and darting light. The small lobby is rich with decoration and we received a very warm greeting upon arrival. There is a tiny elevator which lifts you to the roof top. You step out into a candle/lamp lite area which ekes romance. A swimming pool is located on an adjacent veranda. Our seats at a small table were located on the wall nearest to the lake for a perfect view out to the lake palace and city palace. K was given a small flashlight to review the menu—I did not need one.
Seated next to us was a charming couple from the Munich area.
The menu offered both Indian and International cuisines. K ordered the butter chicken, as she had read that it was the best in town as well as her favorite palak paneer (spinach and homemade cheese). I had chicken strongenoff, which was a sort of a la king chicken dish surrounded by saffron rice—a bit boring. She had crème caramel and I had a brownie sunday for desserts. ~2000 Rs. With one glass of wine and two large Kingfisher beers.
We would love to stay at this Haveli another time.
Upon our return to the Sheraton, the place was buzzing. The lobby was full of Indians in their best dress who were arriving about 9-10 PM for the large wedding in the tent. Music was blazing from the wedding venue on the hill next to the hotel. We sat in the lobby for quite a while and took it all in. We never heard a sound from our room.
Friday will be a totally down day for us. Sort of a day to recharge batteries. K is at the pool for most of the afternoon and I am doing what I am best at: NOTHING.
Our room, while it has a fine view out to the lake, also has a view to some of the hills, to a hill top temple and to a large area where several farmer families live just below our windows. A couple of days ago I saw a woman here going to the toilet in full view of the entire hotel, just now there is a family of pigs roaming around….a woman and a small daughter collecting fire wood… 6 water buffalo just sauntered thru…a huge daddy pig is sniffing around now…large white egret type birds are in some of the water lilly area…. Green parrots dart from tree to tree…. Pigeons roost on my window sill…an occasional car drives along the water’s edge. In short, you could spend hours gazing from my window… interesting new paragraphing has just developed??
This evening we look forward to another rooftop, lakeside restaurant before we leave Udaipur for Jodhpur. This has been an interesting stop—I think my favorite thus far, as Craig suggested it might be.
Last night we had a 7:30 res at the roof top restaurant of the Udai Kothi Haveli. Oddly, it is located within a stone’s throw of where we ate the night before. While not waterside, the roof is high enough to give a grand view of the lake and the shimmering lights at night time.
The entrance to the hotel is dramatic. There is a small circular drive and an arch over the front door shimmering with mirrors and darting light. The small lobby is rich with decoration and we received a very warm greeting upon arrival. There is a tiny elevator which lifts you to the roof top. You step out into a candle/lamp lite area which ekes romance. A swimming pool is located on an adjacent veranda. Our seats at a small table were located on the wall nearest to the lake for a perfect view out to the lake palace and city palace. K was given a small flashlight to review the menu—I did not need one.
Seated next to us was a charming couple from the Munich area.
The menu offered both Indian and International cuisines. K ordered the butter chicken, as she had read that it was the best in town as well as her favorite palak paneer (spinach and homemade cheese). I had chicken strongenoff, which was a sort of a la king chicken dish surrounded by saffron rice—a bit boring. She had crème caramel and I had a brownie sunday for desserts. ~2000 Rs. With one glass of wine and two large Kingfisher beers.
We would love to stay at this Haveli another time.
Upon our return to the Sheraton, the place was buzzing. The lobby was full of Indians in their best dress who were arriving about 9-10 PM for the large wedding in the tent. Music was blazing from the wedding venue on the hill next to the hotel. We sat in the lobby for quite a while and took it all in. We never heard a sound from our room.
Friday will be a totally down day for us. Sort of a day to recharge batteries. K is at the pool for most of the afternoon and I am doing what I am best at: NOTHING.
Our room, while it has a fine view out to the lake, also has a view to some of the hills, to a hill top temple and to a large area where several farmer families live just below our windows. A couple of days ago I saw a woman here going to the toilet in full view of the entire hotel, just now there is a family of pigs roaming around….a woman and a small daughter collecting fire wood… 6 water buffalo just sauntered thru…a huge daddy pig is sniffing around now…large white egret type birds are in some of the water lilly area…. Green parrots dart from tree to tree…. Pigeons roost on my window sill…an occasional car drives along the water’s edge. In short, you could spend hours gazing from my window… interesting new paragraphing has just developed??
This evening we look forward to another rooftop, lakeside restaurant before we leave Udaipur for Jodhpur. This has been an interesting stop—I think my favorite thus far, as Craig suggested it might be.
Nov 18th, 2011, 06:33 AM
#246
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Karen, put some time aside for the Maharani Arts Emporium in the main shopping district (there is only one main shopping district in Jodhpur). Don't be put off by the first floor--it is full of junk and really ugly (at least to me) furniture. The fabrics are up two flights of very rickety stairs. You will be in heaven--and bargain, bargain, bargain.
Also, with the main entry arch of the shopping district in front of you, turn around 180 degrees and walk across the street--there is a spice stall where I bought the most incredible long threads of saffron. The best I have ever had. I still have some left kept in an airtight jar and it is as good as it was when I bought it. A half oz of saffron was something like $40--but a half oz is a HUGE amount of saffron. the fun part it, since it was relative so cheap, I use it in everything. A couple threads of saffron goes a long way. So, if you like saffron.....
So glad you both enjoyed Udaipur so much and that the lake was glimmering.
Loving the report!
Also, with the main entry arch of the shopping district in front of you, turn around 180 degrees and walk across the street--there is a spice stall where I bought the most incredible long threads of saffron. The best I have ever had. I still have some left kept in an airtight jar and it is as good as it was when I bought it. A half oz of saffron was something like $40--but a half oz is a HUGE amount of saffron. the fun part it, since it was relative so cheap, I use it in everything. A couple threads of saffron goes a long way. So, if you like saffron.....
So glad you both enjoyed Udaipur so much and that the lake was glimmering.
Loving the report!
Nov 18th, 2011, 06:50 AM
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My advice is to <i>beware</i> of the Maharani Arts Emporium. I'm not a shopper but even I couldn't resist the merchandise there. No regrets, though. The staircase to the second floor is indeed rickety, if it still stands!
Nov 18th, 2011, 07:33 AM
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rhkkmk....glad you are enjoying India. You have finally hit your stride....just the right combination that suits your travel style between sightseeing, shopping, rest and adventure. Perfect.
Like you say, India is old and modern, rich and poor, and above all loaded with immense amounts of culture. You'll find diversity all around you, most of the time it's good. And talk about constant extra sensory overload. I wouldn't expect anything less from an ancient country of about 5000 years history give or take another 2000 years.
Like you say, India is old and modern, rich and poor, and above all loaded with immense amounts of culture. You'll find diversity all around you, most of the time it's good. And talk about constant extra sensory overload. I wouldn't expect anything less from an ancient country of about 5000 years history give or take another 2000 years.
Nov 18th, 2011, 07:51 AM
#249
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one item i did not know how to approach here, i guess i will just face head-on.
we are experiencing lots of anti-muslim sentiments. In the USA it does not seem to be an issue really, but both in Nepal and especially here in India it is very strong. and these people are not the militant types found in the middle east and elsewhere.
we are experiencing lots of anti-muslim sentiments. In the USA it does not seem to be an issue really, but both in Nepal and especially here in India it is very strong. and these people are not the militant types found in the middle east and elsewhere.
Nov 18th, 2011, 10:39 PM
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Soaking in a hot spring and enjoying your report from Kurokawa Onsen. India and Japan seem like night and day and is probably why its not high on our list of places to visit but glad you are enjoying and loving your detailed report. Plus Indian food is not one of our favorites and like you I travel with my stomach,lol. Have to ask you about a two to three week intinerary in India the next time we meet. Maybe a India light tour with Varanasi thrown in (ok I can hear the boo birds singing already).
Did you mean that <b>you</b> are getting anti American sentiments from muslim people or did I get your statement wrong?
Aloha!
Did you mean that <b>you</b> are getting anti American sentiments from muslim people or did I get your statement wrong?
Aloha!
Nov 18th, 2011, 11:06 PM
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I am surprised that you are surprised. Unless you bring up the subject, people will not discuss politically charged subject, even in India.
Perhaps the reaction from the people is an effort to show solidarity with Americans, and understanding of the aftermath of 911. They are expressing it more bluntly, perhaps. Iraq & Afghanistan are constant reminder of the effort to counter the threat.
India & Nepal have had their 911's a few times in the last few years too.
(Mumbai twice, Air India jet hijacked 1990's, Ahmedabad twice, Aligarh flares up now & then, Kashmir constantly, etc).
The sentiments that you speak of are just under the surface here in the US...just ask any muslim. Perhaps they are expressed less subtly in India & Nepal. (The people you are meeting (in your travels) are, generally, less educated and poorer.) Welcome to the old world with long standing issues compared to New America where people try to leave old entanglements behind and move on. (Old world is REST OF THE WORLD.)
Like you say, you are meeting the challenge head-on. Will be interested in how you handle it.
Perhaps the reaction from the people is an effort to show solidarity with Americans, and understanding of the aftermath of 911. They are expressing it more bluntly, perhaps. Iraq & Afghanistan are constant reminder of the effort to counter the threat.
India & Nepal have had their 911's a few times in the last few years too.
(Mumbai twice, Air India jet hijacked 1990's, Ahmedabad twice, Aligarh flares up now & then, Kashmir constantly, etc).
The sentiments that you speak of are just under the surface here in the US...just ask any muslim. Perhaps they are expressed less subtly in India & Nepal. (The people you are meeting (in your travels) are, generally, less educated and poorer.) Welcome to the old world with long standing issues compared to New America where people try to leave old entanglements behind and move on. (Old world is REST OF THE WORLD.)
Like you say, you are meeting the challenge head-on. Will be interested in how you handle it.
Nov 20th, 2011, 07:33 PM
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We have just returned from a wonderful 3 week trip through north India and Darjeeling organized by Arvind of Castle and King, a travel agency in Delhi.
Castle and King were excellent. From our first contact with his office, Arvind (the owner) was particularly accommodating and obliging in every way. His personalized service allowed us to change, modify, and update our travel itinerary. Arvind always responded to my emails and phone calls the same day and was extremely efficient. His suggestions for hotels and for out entire itinerary were wonderful. When we arrived in India, the same first class service continued.
We had a driver and a personal guide and driver at each city. We were met at each flight, and were treated royally throughout our trip. Castle and King arranged all hotels, tours and internal air flights. They also provided a cell phone for the entire trip to enable us to contact them, the driver or our guides at any time. During the trip the guide purchased everything, including entry and camera fees (we never had to wait on line), and their representative checked us into our hotels.
Our driver, Krishna was an outstanding and safe driver. He was always on time and very day our car was meticulously cleaned. He always ensured cold water was provided throughout our trip.
All our guides were extremely knowledgeable articulate, accommodating and friendly.
Please do not hesitate to use Castle and King. Arvind is very professional and we cannot recommend him and his company highly enough.
Castle and King were excellent. From our first contact with his office, Arvind (the owner) was particularly accommodating and obliging in every way. His personalized service allowed us to change, modify, and update our travel itinerary. Arvind always responded to my emails and phone calls the same day and was extremely efficient. His suggestions for hotels and for out entire itinerary were wonderful. When we arrived in India, the same first class service continued.
We had a driver and a personal guide and driver at each city. We were met at each flight, and were treated royally throughout our trip. Castle and King arranged all hotels, tours and internal air flights. They also provided a cell phone for the entire trip to enable us to contact them, the driver or our guides at any time. During the trip the guide purchased everything, including entry and camera fees (we never had to wait on line), and their representative checked us into our hotels.
Our driver, Krishna was an outstanding and safe driver. He was always on time and very day our car was meticulously cleaned. He always ensured cold water was provided throughout our trip.
All our guides were extremely knowledgeable articulate, accommodating and friendly.
Please do not hesitate to use Castle and King. Arvind is very professional and we cannot recommend him and his company highly enough.
Nov 20th, 2011, 09:00 PM
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Good to hear that the negative sentiments are not toward you and not anti-american in any way. Didn't think so. IMHO India is very friendly toward America.
Awaiting the next installment....Jodhpur & Jaiselmer are on our list for next trip to India.
Awaiting the next installment....Jodhpur & Jaiselmer are on our list for next trip to India.
Nov 21st, 2011, 03:00 AM
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We had the best dinner. Krishna had a bit of difficulty getting us there as the police had one narrow road blocked off. We finally arrived about 15 minutes late, but it really did not matter as there were plenty of seats. The restaurant is located on the two top floors of the Jagat Niwas Palace Haveli, which is a few “doors” along from the City Palace and right on the lake. The interior of the building is quite open and very lovely. The stairs on the other hand are steep and irregular. Not a choice for one who has difficulty climbing.
Our table was directly above the lake with fab views of the palaces, hotels, etc. For dinner, K chose Kingfisher beers, chicken tikka labadar, potato and cauliflower in cashew gravy, a veggie croquette in a tomato, nut, yogurt sauce, naan, water, and we split a rich ice cream Sunday. 1241 Rs.
Returned to our hotel to complete the packing.
Sat Nov 17
Breakfast on the lower level… just ok, but pastry is flaky..
Krishna came for us promptly at 9:30 as arranged. This is to be a long day as we drive to Jodhpur. After clearing the city, we emerged onto a very good 4 lane separated highway (2 each way). After a way we turned off onto a local road in the direction of the Ranakpur (Jain) Temples. This proved to be a very narrow, curving, mountainous road, which passed through many villages, and huge forested areas (leopard country).
We passed many farmers, including lots of yellow mustard plants just beginning to bloom, several water wheels powered by ox or water buffalo, women washing clothes, loads of women pumping water into clay pots for drinking water, kids and more kids, students in school uniforms, and more free roaming cows than you can imagine.
Eventually we reached the Jain Temple which is indeed impressive, and in the middle of no-where…. There are over 1000 individually sculptured columns dating from 1446. BTW, we had opted out of visiting the oft visited fort on the way as this added at least 1.5 hours to the trip. Fully realizing the sensory overload and being a bit hungry we got back on the road.
We stopped at a local family run carpet shop where we purchased one very small cotton dhuri for under my computer table—soft on the feet. Just down the road from there was a hotel “resort” where we stopped for lunch—Ranakpur Hill Resort. We had bread and soup as this was the only offering other than a buffet. A German couple joined us at our table, which was fun.
On to Jodhpur. The road conditions were not great now so it took extreme skill for Krishna to navigate, plus there were tons of trucks after we joined the old delhi-mumbai road.
At 5:45 we finally arrived at our heritage hotel, The Rattan Villas (www.ratanvilas.com ) -- I booked directly with them. This lovely enclave is located right in the city. Down a short driveway, you arrive at an oasis of a building with green grass, a swimming pool, tons of chairs scattered around the property to relax on. Our very large room and huge bathroom (#107) is located on the 2nd floor just above the central courtyard, cum restaurant. Not only were we glad to be here but the place is fab. We received a very warm welcome from the local tour agency (giving us huge kneel-length flower garlands) but also garlands from the hotel.
We relaxed a bit and went down to the courtyard for dinner about 7:30. The food was amongst the best we have had. I had a bowl of chicken lemon soup and K ordered the following for us to share: giant Kingfisher beer, Mattor mushrooms and peas in gravy (yum!!), lentils and spinach, white meat chicken rolled in egg and cashew flour and cooked quickly in the tandori oven, water, naam and split a fruit salad and custard. 1504 Rs. Lovely setting and very reasonable… Room: 3250 Rs incl breakfast—less than $75.
Don’t miss this lovely B&B.
Sun Nov 18
We passed on the buffet breakfast and had fresh cooked eggs, fruit and toast in the courtyard.
Our pick-up was at 10. We headed first to the royal crematory, a taj looking building set high on a hill. All white marble with intricate carving, it was built about 1900. All royals are cremated here after the 1899 death of the Maharaja. The site is very dramatic. There is a small pond next to it where the royals bath after the cremation.
From there we headed to the world’s 8th largest fort, a truly massive place built into a tall rock formation. K and Ragu, our guide, toured it for 1.5 hours. I stayed in the a/c, and from the report it is good I did---think mountain goat.
After this it was lunch time so we headed to On the Rocks, a popular purpose built oasis themed restaurant. We had a nice lunch and Ragu joined us. He is interesting and very well spoken… Each Monday he is a Palace on Wheels guide.
Following lunch we returned to the hotel for a couple of hours. K went to the pool and I cooled down and then did internet. The pool is new and very nice.
At 5:30 we were picked up again and proceeded for a walking tour of the main market area. It was bustling. I loved it and took tons of pics. We ended up at the controversial Maharani Art Exporters, a Jain enterprise. We were taken to the second floor. K expressed interest in their designer goods. We were asked to look at their range of items, starting with bed top covers, “made” for a series of well known designers. The range was $45 to $1200, even the inexpensive ones were very nice. They were very nice but we were not in the market. Bring on the scarves! He started with the least expensive of the wool products and finally got up to the outrageously soft and thin---most expensive was only $300. I bargained a bit and we ended up with 3 items in a group purchase. After spending an hour there, we resumed our walk thru the market towards the Pal Haveli at the edge of the market, where we had a res for dinner at 7:30, on the rooftop, looking directly up to the gigantic illuminated fort. Very close and also illuminated is the clock tower.
We had a very nice dinner in the dimly candle lit highest rooftop area. A chicken dish, white rice, a veggie dish and a mushroom dish, all with gravy were enjoyed and washed down by kingfisher and cold water and finally a local dessert of 3 sweet balls made from milk.
Krishna picked us up about 8:30 and took us back to the hotel where we gave him 2 bags of laundry.
Our table was directly above the lake with fab views of the palaces, hotels, etc. For dinner, K chose Kingfisher beers, chicken tikka labadar, potato and cauliflower in cashew gravy, a veggie croquette in a tomato, nut, yogurt sauce, naan, water, and we split a rich ice cream Sunday. 1241 Rs.
Returned to our hotel to complete the packing.
Sat Nov 17
Breakfast on the lower level… just ok, but pastry is flaky..
Krishna came for us promptly at 9:30 as arranged. This is to be a long day as we drive to Jodhpur. After clearing the city, we emerged onto a very good 4 lane separated highway (2 each way). After a way we turned off onto a local road in the direction of the Ranakpur (Jain) Temples. This proved to be a very narrow, curving, mountainous road, which passed through many villages, and huge forested areas (leopard country).
We passed many farmers, including lots of yellow mustard plants just beginning to bloom, several water wheels powered by ox or water buffalo, women washing clothes, loads of women pumping water into clay pots for drinking water, kids and more kids, students in school uniforms, and more free roaming cows than you can imagine.
Eventually we reached the Jain Temple which is indeed impressive, and in the middle of no-where…. There are over 1000 individually sculptured columns dating from 1446. BTW, we had opted out of visiting the oft visited fort on the way as this added at least 1.5 hours to the trip. Fully realizing the sensory overload and being a bit hungry we got back on the road.
We stopped at a local family run carpet shop where we purchased one very small cotton dhuri for under my computer table—soft on the feet. Just down the road from there was a hotel “resort” where we stopped for lunch—Ranakpur Hill Resort. We had bread and soup as this was the only offering other than a buffet. A German couple joined us at our table, which was fun.
On to Jodhpur. The road conditions were not great now so it took extreme skill for Krishna to navigate, plus there were tons of trucks after we joined the old delhi-mumbai road.
At 5:45 we finally arrived at our heritage hotel, The Rattan Villas (www.ratanvilas.com ) -- I booked directly with them. This lovely enclave is located right in the city. Down a short driveway, you arrive at an oasis of a building with green grass, a swimming pool, tons of chairs scattered around the property to relax on. Our very large room and huge bathroom (#107) is located on the 2nd floor just above the central courtyard, cum restaurant. Not only were we glad to be here but the place is fab. We received a very warm welcome from the local tour agency (giving us huge kneel-length flower garlands) but also garlands from the hotel.
We relaxed a bit and went down to the courtyard for dinner about 7:30. The food was amongst the best we have had. I had a bowl of chicken lemon soup and K ordered the following for us to share: giant Kingfisher beer, Mattor mushrooms and peas in gravy (yum!!), lentils and spinach, white meat chicken rolled in egg and cashew flour and cooked quickly in the tandori oven, water, naam and split a fruit salad and custard. 1504 Rs. Lovely setting and very reasonable… Room: 3250 Rs incl breakfast—less than $75.
Don’t miss this lovely B&B.
Sun Nov 18
We passed on the buffet breakfast and had fresh cooked eggs, fruit and toast in the courtyard.
Our pick-up was at 10. We headed first to the royal crematory, a taj looking building set high on a hill. All white marble with intricate carving, it was built about 1900. All royals are cremated here after the 1899 death of the Maharaja. The site is very dramatic. There is a small pond next to it where the royals bath after the cremation.
From there we headed to the world’s 8th largest fort, a truly massive place built into a tall rock formation. K and Ragu, our guide, toured it for 1.5 hours. I stayed in the a/c, and from the report it is good I did---think mountain goat.
After this it was lunch time so we headed to On the Rocks, a popular purpose built oasis themed restaurant. We had a nice lunch and Ragu joined us. He is interesting and very well spoken… Each Monday he is a Palace on Wheels guide.
Following lunch we returned to the hotel for a couple of hours. K went to the pool and I cooled down and then did internet. The pool is new and very nice.
At 5:30 we were picked up again and proceeded for a walking tour of the main market area. It was bustling. I loved it and took tons of pics. We ended up at the controversial Maharani Art Exporters, a Jain enterprise. We were taken to the second floor. K expressed interest in their designer goods. We were asked to look at their range of items, starting with bed top covers, “made” for a series of well known designers. The range was $45 to $1200, even the inexpensive ones were very nice. They were very nice but we were not in the market. Bring on the scarves! He started with the least expensive of the wool products and finally got up to the outrageously soft and thin---most expensive was only $300. I bargained a bit and we ended up with 3 items in a group purchase. After spending an hour there, we resumed our walk thru the market towards the Pal Haveli at the edge of the market, where we had a res for dinner at 7:30, on the rooftop, looking directly up to the gigantic illuminated fort. Very close and also illuminated is the clock tower.
We had a very nice dinner in the dimly candle lit highest rooftop area. A chicken dish, white rice, a veggie dish and a mushroom dish, all with gravy were enjoyed and washed down by kingfisher and cold water and finally a local dessert of 3 sweet balls made from milk.
Krishna picked us up about 8:30 and took us back to the hotel where we gave him 2 bags of laundry.
Nov 21st, 2011, 03:07 AM
#260
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Can39---i'm so glad that your C&K experience was as good as is ours. Krishna is simply the best....!!!
This trip cements into my mind the strong feelings of gratitude and faith I have put in Avrind and Castle and King.
Their performance for us has been 120% thus far. Each guide has been thorough without boring or overloading us and we are appreciative of that. It also cements in our mind the notion of individual travel.
This trip cements into my mind the strong feelings of gratitude and faith I have put in Avrind and Castle and King.
Their performance for us has been 120% thus far. Each guide has been thorough without boring or overloading us and we are appreciative of that. It also cements in our mind the notion of individual travel.
