Trip report part 1
Aug 1st, 2006 | 07:20 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 119
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Trip report part 1
Hi all
This will be a long report so I am doing it in parts.
Finally I am getting around to writing my trip report. As some of you are aware I went to India with my husband and two University aged children in May of this year. Everyone said we were crazy because the heat would be overbearing and they were right!!! It was 45 to 47 degrees in Aurangabad, Jaipur and Agra. Delhi on the other hand was a mild 42 degrees with frequent black outs and a power shortage. Not to be deterred we went on our merry sweaty way and still enjoyed ourselves immensely. All arrangements except our fight to India were made through Prestige travel in Delhi (thanks for the recommendation, Hobbes). Everything went like clockwork.
That said our trip started off in a star crossed manner with me breaking the middle toe of my right foot the afternoon before we left. I was chasing our cat who had escaped from the house. At the same time as I was trying to do myself an injury; my daughter was breaking up with her boyfriend. So the next day we limped painfully and tearfully to the airport for our first trip to India!
Our first few days in Delhi, we stayed at the Crown Plaza, Surya on the Club floor and slowly adapted to the heat and our new environment. The drive from the airport was such a shocker. For all of you frequent visitors to India, I am sure you remember the first time driving in Delhi. Honk to pass, honk to not pass, honk to speed up, honk to slow down, honk to honk, honk to say “I don’t want to honk”! We were amazed at the cows, horses, pedestrians, bicycle rickshaws etc that were all over the place, weaving seamlessly in and out of the traffic. We were also taken aback when we stepped off the hotel grounds into the poverty that was pervasive on the streets. You know it is there when you arrive but nothing prepares you for actually walking through it.
The streets of India were a wonder to us. People lived, cooked and bathed in the street. Merchants sold goods and services on the sidewalks. I particularly enjoyed watching the street barbers. Don’t know why but I found them fascinating.
We spent sometime touring around. We went to the Lotus temple, India Gate and to Koral Bagh market. We loved the shopping there and hoped to return later in the trip. We also watched a wedding procession going past the hotel at night. The drums, dancing, horses and fireworks were a sight to behold.
We then flew (my daughter had Delhi Belly after drinking a margarita shaken over ice) to Aurangabad on India Air. The flight was delayed for 6 hours and in desperation I upgraded to first class for only $100 each in order to gain access to the first class lounge. In the lounge I could put my foot up and my daughter could lie down. We finally took off to Mumbai and changed planes. The new pilot must have been in a temper because when we took off he booted the plane up. It went up so fast and so sharply that the food cabinets in the first class galley burst open and the meals flew down the aisle. They served them anyway and being India, we ate it.
We arrived in Aurangabad and were met at the airport by our driver despite being 5 hours late. We stayed at The Ambassador Hotel. The staff spoke very little English but were very friendly and pleasant. One note of warning regarding the rooms, we were on the third floor in a room with a conjoining room. The staff were using the conjoining room as their break room and were extremely noisy till 3 in the morning. We complained the next day and they quietened down the following nights. We experienced the same thing in Agra, so it maybe a common occurrence in some Indian hotels.
The next morning we went to the Ajanta caves. These “caves” have been carved out of the solid cliff and were beyond breathtaking. The paintings, though hundreds of years old, still have vibrant colours and the images are wonderful. We stopped at a very grubby little restaurant on the way back that was run by the tourist board. The place was none to clean but the food was terrific and the beer ice cold (important when it is 47 degrees and the only air conditioning is a fan).
The next day we went to the Ellora Caves. Well, I didn’t think we could top the day before but we did! The temple to Shiva and the enormous carvings of elephants and other animals were extraordinary!!!! To think these were carved by hand out of the mountain hundreds of years ago is astounding. We stopped on the way back at a cleaner version of the previous day’s restaurant and were again fed terrific food and icy beer.
We stayed an extra day in Aurangabad just to see the area. We visited some traditional weavers and did a little shopping. We bought silk table coverings and scarves that were truly gorgeous. Another note: Our guide, Ayaz, asked us to please tell everyone that since September 11th the tourism industry in and around Aurangabad has gone way down. They are not getting anywhere near the number of Western tourists they used to get. They are hoping that people will start returning if they hear about the area. So if you can fit it into your next trip, it is well worth the detour.
We flew back to Delhi to meet our son, who had to stay and finish writing his exams before joining us. We stayed at the Master Guest House for four days. We booked 3 rooms and were looking to get a real Delhi experience rather just another hotel. The only draw backs were the shared bathrooms and the lack of air-conditioning in the public areas. The rooms were air-conditioned and they had a generator so the black-outs were not a big problem. The place is meticulously clean (better than most hotels!). The floors in all the rooms are scrubbed daily. The bathrooms are cleaned more than once a day. Our room was large and airy but the kids were upstairs in much smaller rooms. Not unpleasant at all just smaller. The bonus for them was that their rooms opened up onto a lovely roof top terrace. Ushi and Avnish, the owners, were wonderful. Avnish spent time with us every morning helping us plan an itinerary for the day. He would then instruct our driver on where to take us and off we went. He also gave us terrific ideas for restaurants such as the United Coffee House in CP.
We visited CP, Kahn Market, did a repeat on the India Gate, The Delhi Observatory (looks like a giant Escher painting), Humayan’s Tomb, the Imperial for drinks and snacks, the Red Fort, the Craft Museum as well as other sites and attractions. We took a bicycle rickshaw through Old Delhi and got out and walked around the spice market. The bales of chillies were piled high all around and you could smell the heady scent of spices everywhere.
This will be a long report so I am doing it in parts.
Finally I am getting around to writing my trip report. As some of you are aware I went to India with my husband and two University aged children in May of this year. Everyone said we were crazy because the heat would be overbearing and they were right!!! It was 45 to 47 degrees in Aurangabad, Jaipur and Agra. Delhi on the other hand was a mild 42 degrees with frequent black outs and a power shortage. Not to be deterred we went on our merry sweaty way and still enjoyed ourselves immensely. All arrangements except our fight to India were made through Prestige travel in Delhi (thanks for the recommendation, Hobbes). Everything went like clockwork.
That said our trip started off in a star crossed manner with me breaking the middle toe of my right foot the afternoon before we left. I was chasing our cat who had escaped from the house. At the same time as I was trying to do myself an injury; my daughter was breaking up with her boyfriend. So the next day we limped painfully and tearfully to the airport for our first trip to India!
Our first few days in Delhi, we stayed at the Crown Plaza, Surya on the Club floor and slowly adapted to the heat and our new environment. The drive from the airport was such a shocker. For all of you frequent visitors to India, I am sure you remember the first time driving in Delhi. Honk to pass, honk to not pass, honk to speed up, honk to slow down, honk to honk, honk to say “I don’t want to honk”! We were amazed at the cows, horses, pedestrians, bicycle rickshaws etc that were all over the place, weaving seamlessly in and out of the traffic. We were also taken aback when we stepped off the hotel grounds into the poverty that was pervasive on the streets. You know it is there when you arrive but nothing prepares you for actually walking through it.
The streets of India were a wonder to us. People lived, cooked and bathed in the street. Merchants sold goods and services on the sidewalks. I particularly enjoyed watching the street barbers. Don’t know why but I found them fascinating.
We spent sometime touring around. We went to the Lotus temple, India Gate and to Koral Bagh market. We loved the shopping there and hoped to return later in the trip. We also watched a wedding procession going past the hotel at night. The drums, dancing, horses and fireworks were a sight to behold.
We then flew (my daughter had Delhi Belly after drinking a margarita shaken over ice) to Aurangabad on India Air. The flight was delayed for 6 hours and in desperation I upgraded to first class for only $100 each in order to gain access to the first class lounge. In the lounge I could put my foot up and my daughter could lie down. We finally took off to Mumbai and changed planes. The new pilot must have been in a temper because when we took off he booted the plane up. It went up so fast and so sharply that the food cabinets in the first class galley burst open and the meals flew down the aisle. They served them anyway and being India, we ate it.
We arrived in Aurangabad and were met at the airport by our driver despite being 5 hours late. We stayed at The Ambassador Hotel. The staff spoke very little English but were very friendly and pleasant. One note of warning regarding the rooms, we were on the third floor in a room with a conjoining room. The staff were using the conjoining room as their break room and were extremely noisy till 3 in the morning. We complained the next day and they quietened down the following nights. We experienced the same thing in Agra, so it maybe a common occurrence in some Indian hotels.
The next morning we went to the Ajanta caves. These “caves” have been carved out of the solid cliff and were beyond breathtaking. The paintings, though hundreds of years old, still have vibrant colours and the images are wonderful. We stopped at a very grubby little restaurant on the way back that was run by the tourist board. The place was none to clean but the food was terrific and the beer ice cold (important when it is 47 degrees and the only air conditioning is a fan).
The next day we went to the Ellora Caves. Well, I didn’t think we could top the day before but we did! The temple to Shiva and the enormous carvings of elephants and other animals were extraordinary!!!! To think these were carved by hand out of the mountain hundreds of years ago is astounding. We stopped on the way back at a cleaner version of the previous day’s restaurant and were again fed terrific food and icy beer.
We stayed an extra day in Aurangabad just to see the area. We visited some traditional weavers and did a little shopping. We bought silk table coverings and scarves that were truly gorgeous. Another note: Our guide, Ayaz, asked us to please tell everyone that since September 11th the tourism industry in and around Aurangabad has gone way down. They are not getting anywhere near the number of Western tourists they used to get. They are hoping that people will start returning if they hear about the area. So if you can fit it into your next trip, it is well worth the detour.
We flew back to Delhi to meet our son, who had to stay and finish writing his exams before joining us. We stayed at the Master Guest House for four days. We booked 3 rooms and were looking to get a real Delhi experience rather just another hotel. The only draw backs were the shared bathrooms and the lack of air-conditioning in the public areas. The rooms were air-conditioned and they had a generator so the black-outs were not a big problem. The place is meticulously clean (better than most hotels!). The floors in all the rooms are scrubbed daily. The bathrooms are cleaned more than once a day. Our room was large and airy but the kids were upstairs in much smaller rooms. Not unpleasant at all just smaller. The bonus for them was that their rooms opened up onto a lovely roof top terrace. Ushi and Avnish, the owners, were wonderful. Avnish spent time with us every morning helping us plan an itinerary for the day. He would then instruct our driver on where to take us and off we went. He also gave us terrific ideas for restaurants such as the United Coffee House in CP.
We visited CP, Kahn Market, did a repeat on the India Gate, The Delhi Observatory (looks like a giant Escher painting), Humayan’s Tomb, the Imperial for drinks and snacks, the Red Fort, the Craft Museum as well as other sites and attractions. We took a bicycle rickshaw through Old Delhi and got out and walked around the spice market. The bales of chillies were piled high all around and you could smell the heady scent of spices everywhere.
Aug 1st, 2006 | 07:35 AM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 0
I am enjoying your report - had to convert your temps from Celcius to Fahrenheit to understand just how hot it was - we have been experiencing a major heat wave all across the United States but the temperatures aren't even close to what you experienced in India. Keep it coming - we were in India in 2005 and are thinking seriously of returning in 2008.
Aug 1st, 2006 | 10:09 AM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
People are suggesting that I add the rest as a reply so here goes...part 2 and 3. Glad you are all enjoying it.
After 4 days we drove off to Jaipur. We spent two nights at the Shahpura House hotel. It is a heritage hotel and is small but lovely with hand painted designs on all the walls. We stayed in the Maharani Suite and the kids had another large room with twin beds. The hotel was really nice as were the staff. The restaurants in the hotel served excellent food at night. The breakfast was just okay.
We ate upstairs at the rooftop restaurant the first night because it was so hot and there was a lovely but vigorous breeze. We were the only guests up there because of the wind. We stayed because we enjoyed the fresh air and the smell of the gardens. The only problem with the restaurant was that there was entertainment (a puppet show and a group of dancers and musicians). Well! When you are the only guests guess where all the focus is??? They worked so hard to entertain us while we tried to eat. There was a scary moment when one of the dancers was dancing with a flaming pot on her head and the wind picked up. The flames started shooting sideways from the pot and it looked like her veils were going to take off in a flaming whirlwind. She valiantly kept smiling as she edged her way away from our table, full of chalk white faces and startled eyes, to the other end of the deck to quickly put out her potted inferno! We tipped mightily and ate the following evening in the restaurant downstairs.
In Jaipur we went to the City Palace, where we were caught in a sand storm. I’ve read about them but this was the first time I had ever been in one. We also went to the Amber Fort, the Palace of The Winds and a carpet weaver. The ride by elephant up to the Amber Fort was slow but enjoyable. Well worth doing. It was so hot and dry in Jaipur that the Lake Palace was dubbed the Mud Palace by my husband. The local news station was doing a story on tourism so they rushed up to our car and filmed us as we visited the Wind Palace. It was a little weird but kind of fun. We just smiled and waived.
The next day we were off to Agra by way of FatehPur Sikri. FatehPur Sikri was remarkable but we were very hot and tired from the drive. We spent a couple of hours there before heading to Agra. We stayed at the Howard Park Plaza which was okay but nothing special. We had a terrific guide, Sanjay, who showed us the town. We started at 6:00 a.m. the following day and went straight to the Taj Mahal. It was absolutely beautiful. The smell of the jasmine and gardenias in the gardens added to the atmosphere and beautiful surroundings. We also saw the Mini Taj, the Red Fort and the place where they still do the stone inlay.
After Agra we drove 10 hours to Corbett National Park. We did a lot of driving on this trip but it was far from dull. Seeing the differences in the villages and the people from one region to the next was remarkable. As we changed areas we saw the camels give way to elephants which gave way to oxen and horses. We took tons of pictures from the car. We also had our picture taken frequently. People were always asking us if they could have their picture taken with us. We posed for them and they posed for us and everyone went away happy. We also had children coming up and speaking with us to practice their English. It was really special.
At Corbett we stayed at the Corbett Jungle resort. The hotel is very nice and right on the river. The views are spectacular. They have their own elephant so you can book an elephant ride. We did ours at 5:00 a.m. and really enjoyed the forest as it awakened. The staff is very nice. The food is so so. The buffet dinner is “Chinese” and not the best. Ask instead for the Indian food. It comes hot and fresh to your table in copious quantities and is very tasty. The only drawback here are the beds and pillows are like bricks and hot water is sporadic. Other than that, who cares! It’s India and the area is spectacular. We took a jeep ride into the national park and were lucky enough to see a herd of wild elephants and …….my dream was fulfilled……a TIGER!
We spent 2 nights at Corbett before we headed off to Rishikesh. We stayed about 30 kms outside of Rishikesh at the Glass House on the Ganges which is a Neemrana Hotel. The Glass House is right on the Ganges and is lovely. The main house is nothing special. The rooms are pretty and are located in various cottages on the grounds. The kids’ room was huge but ours was tiny. We asked to be upgraded the next day and were given a huge room with a fireplace, small separate sitting area and a private deck overlooking the Ganges. The grounds and gardens are beautiful.
We went white water rafting on the Ganges and had a terrific time. My husband had a problem with blocked ears so the hotel arranged an appointment for us at the hospital in Rishikesh. He was very well treated at a very clean hospital and it only cost us 110 rupees! After his clean out, we bought fruit in the local market which we enjoyed with our lunch. We went to the lights ceremony in the evening at one of the temples. We listened to the drums and the chanting and watched as people lit their offerings from the sacred flame and floated them down the Ganges. After which we wandered through the market at night before heading back to the hotel.
After three nights at the Glass House, we headed to Dhanoulti where we were booked into a Government Guest House. Yikes! They had had no electricity for 6 days, the water pump didn’t work (no flushing those toilets!) and the place was barely clean. Even our driver, Deepak wanted to leave. We went for a walk though the town and decided that this was just not for us and left the next day.
We arrived in Mussoorie a day earlier than expected. We were booked into the Kasmanda Lodge for the following two nights. They were full and could not accommodate us a night earlier so we went to the Jaypee Residency Manor for the one night. Thanks must be given to the owner of the Kasmanda Lodge who is also the Raj. He was very kind and spent a lot of time trying to get us bookings at other hotels. Once we settled on the Jaypee he got us a 20% discount on the price.
The Jaypee was a very nice hotel with excellent amenities but we actually preferred the Kasmanda Lodge. The Jaypee was very much a western Style hotel (except for the monkey that tried break into our room through the window). It is also quite remote but the views are spectacular. The heritage Kasmanda Lodge also has wonderful views but is much more intimate and you can walk down the hill and stroll comfortably for hours through the town mall. Also the food was better at the Kasmanda Lodge, where you had to order ahead of time and tell them when you would be eating. The food was made fresh, hot and served at the requested time. It was way better than the extensive buffets we got at the Jaypee.
We loved Mussoorie and the surrounding areas. The area is beautiful and the people are relaxed and friendly. After three nights we sadly drove back to Delhi for our flight home.
Our first trip to India was a success! We might have been able to do more if the weather had been cooler. But despite the heat we saw a lot. We took precautions, like carrying water and wearing hats and sunscreen (no sunburns for any of us!). We met a lot of wonderful people both locals and tourists. We all got sick at least once but with antibiotics and Imodium it didn’t stop us. Our driver was a pleasure as were most of the guides. Prestige tours was terrific even to the point where Mr Anand, the owner, had us to his house for drinks the night we left. We bought some terrific silks and art pieces. Ate excellent food. Saw amazing sights. All in all it was a trip of a lifetime. We will definitely be going back!
After 4 days we drove off to Jaipur. We spent two nights at the Shahpura House hotel. It is a heritage hotel and is small but lovely with hand painted designs on all the walls. We stayed in the Maharani Suite and the kids had another large room with twin beds. The hotel was really nice as were the staff. The restaurants in the hotel served excellent food at night. The breakfast was just okay.
We ate upstairs at the rooftop restaurant the first night because it was so hot and there was a lovely but vigorous breeze. We were the only guests up there because of the wind. We stayed because we enjoyed the fresh air and the smell of the gardens. The only problem with the restaurant was that there was entertainment (a puppet show and a group of dancers and musicians). Well! When you are the only guests guess where all the focus is??? They worked so hard to entertain us while we tried to eat. There was a scary moment when one of the dancers was dancing with a flaming pot on her head and the wind picked up. The flames started shooting sideways from the pot and it looked like her veils were going to take off in a flaming whirlwind. She valiantly kept smiling as she edged her way away from our table, full of chalk white faces and startled eyes, to the other end of the deck to quickly put out her potted inferno! We tipped mightily and ate the following evening in the restaurant downstairs.
In Jaipur we went to the City Palace, where we were caught in a sand storm. I’ve read about them but this was the first time I had ever been in one. We also went to the Amber Fort, the Palace of The Winds and a carpet weaver. The ride by elephant up to the Amber Fort was slow but enjoyable. Well worth doing. It was so hot and dry in Jaipur that the Lake Palace was dubbed the Mud Palace by my husband. The local news station was doing a story on tourism so they rushed up to our car and filmed us as we visited the Wind Palace. It was a little weird but kind of fun. We just smiled and waived.
The next day we were off to Agra by way of FatehPur Sikri. FatehPur Sikri was remarkable but we were very hot and tired from the drive. We spent a couple of hours there before heading to Agra. We stayed at the Howard Park Plaza which was okay but nothing special. We had a terrific guide, Sanjay, who showed us the town. We started at 6:00 a.m. the following day and went straight to the Taj Mahal. It was absolutely beautiful. The smell of the jasmine and gardenias in the gardens added to the atmosphere and beautiful surroundings. We also saw the Mini Taj, the Red Fort and the place where they still do the stone inlay.
After Agra we drove 10 hours to Corbett National Park. We did a lot of driving on this trip but it was far from dull. Seeing the differences in the villages and the people from one region to the next was remarkable. As we changed areas we saw the camels give way to elephants which gave way to oxen and horses. We took tons of pictures from the car. We also had our picture taken frequently. People were always asking us if they could have their picture taken with us. We posed for them and they posed for us and everyone went away happy. We also had children coming up and speaking with us to practice their English. It was really special.
At Corbett we stayed at the Corbett Jungle resort. The hotel is very nice and right on the river. The views are spectacular. They have their own elephant so you can book an elephant ride. We did ours at 5:00 a.m. and really enjoyed the forest as it awakened. The staff is very nice. The food is so so. The buffet dinner is “Chinese” and not the best. Ask instead for the Indian food. It comes hot and fresh to your table in copious quantities and is very tasty. The only drawback here are the beds and pillows are like bricks and hot water is sporadic. Other than that, who cares! It’s India and the area is spectacular. We took a jeep ride into the national park and were lucky enough to see a herd of wild elephants and …….my dream was fulfilled……a TIGER!
We spent 2 nights at Corbett before we headed off to Rishikesh. We stayed about 30 kms outside of Rishikesh at the Glass House on the Ganges which is a Neemrana Hotel. The Glass House is right on the Ganges and is lovely. The main house is nothing special. The rooms are pretty and are located in various cottages on the grounds. The kids’ room was huge but ours was tiny. We asked to be upgraded the next day and were given a huge room with a fireplace, small separate sitting area and a private deck overlooking the Ganges. The grounds and gardens are beautiful.
We went white water rafting on the Ganges and had a terrific time. My husband had a problem with blocked ears so the hotel arranged an appointment for us at the hospital in Rishikesh. He was very well treated at a very clean hospital and it only cost us 110 rupees! After his clean out, we bought fruit in the local market which we enjoyed with our lunch. We went to the lights ceremony in the evening at one of the temples. We listened to the drums and the chanting and watched as people lit their offerings from the sacred flame and floated them down the Ganges. After which we wandered through the market at night before heading back to the hotel.
After three nights at the Glass House, we headed to Dhanoulti where we were booked into a Government Guest House. Yikes! They had had no electricity for 6 days, the water pump didn’t work (no flushing those toilets!) and the place was barely clean. Even our driver, Deepak wanted to leave. We went for a walk though the town and decided that this was just not for us and left the next day.
We arrived in Mussoorie a day earlier than expected. We were booked into the Kasmanda Lodge for the following two nights. They were full and could not accommodate us a night earlier so we went to the Jaypee Residency Manor for the one night. Thanks must be given to the owner of the Kasmanda Lodge who is also the Raj. He was very kind and spent a lot of time trying to get us bookings at other hotels. Once we settled on the Jaypee he got us a 20% discount on the price.
The Jaypee was a very nice hotel with excellent amenities but we actually preferred the Kasmanda Lodge. The Jaypee was very much a western Style hotel (except for the monkey that tried break into our room through the window). It is also quite remote but the views are spectacular. The heritage Kasmanda Lodge also has wonderful views but is much more intimate and you can walk down the hill and stroll comfortably for hours through the town mall. Also the food was better at the Kasmanda Lodge, where you had to order ahead of time and tell them when you would be eating. The food was made fresh, hot and served at the requested time. It was way better than the extensive buffets we got at the Jaypee.
We loved Mussoorie and the surrounding areas. The area is beautiful and the people are relaxed and friendly. After three nights we sadly drove back to Delhi for our flight home.
Our first trip to India was a success! We might have been able to do more if the weather had been cooler. But despite the heat we saw a lot. We took precautions, like carrying water and wearing hats and sunscreen (no sunburns for any of us!). We met a lot of wonderful people both locals and tourists. We all got sick at least once but with antibiotics and Imodium it didn’t stop us. Our driver was a pleasure as were most of the guides. Prestige tours was terrific even to the point where Mr Anand, the owner, had us to his house for drinks the night we left. We bought some terrific silks and art pieces. Ate excellent food. Saw amazing sights. All in all it was a trip of a lifetime. We will definitely be going back!
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Oct 6th, 2006 | 02:35 AM
#8
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 741
Likes: 0
Great report.
I would be very keen to know:
a. What area of the Corbett you visited & saw the tiger in i.e. did you see it after entering the Dhangarhi Gate or did you enter the park at Bijrani? It is so heartening to hear that tigers can still be seen in the wild, in these trying times when our northern neighbor, is baying for their blood, to make those ugly costumes, they call ceremonial dresses! I have some cherished memories of this park, which may not be enjoyed again.
b. Was there any specific reason that you traveled 10 hours, from Agra to Corbett, while you have Neemrana- Kuchesar right on the way, for overnight? I did it some years back & I thought it was very tough.
Best Wishes!
I would be very keen to know:
a. What area of the Corbett you visited & saw the tiger in i.e. did you see it after entering the Dhangarhi Gate or did you enter the park at Bijrani? It is so heartening to hear that tigers can still be seen in the wild, in these trying times when our northern neighbor, is baying for their blood, to make those ugly costumes, they call ceremonial dresses! I have some cherished memories of this park, which may not be enjoyed again.
b. Was there any specific reason that you traveled 10 hours, from Agra to Corbett, while you have Neemrana- Kuchesar right on the way, for overnight? I did it some years back & I thought it was very tough.
Best Wishes!
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