Trip Report -Part 1 Luang Prabang
Jan 4th, 2007, 11:16 PM
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Trip Report -Part 1 Luang Prabang
First my thanks to Kathy, Karen and several others who provided information so generously. I'll leave the lyrical prose to others and just offer tidbits on 3 1/2 wonderful days in LP in mid December.
We flew from Bangkok to LP on Lao Air, a prop jet, maybe 50 seats, comfortable enough. Eddie at SeaTours did the ticketing and all went smoothly.
Our hotel, Le Residence Phou Vao, was very fine. Rooms were spacious,wonderful teak floors and much use of wood, bathrooms big with good amenities, everything spotlessly clean. As everywhere, some views more desireable than others. Hotel food very tasty and well presented; service was attentive among all hotel staff. Spa treatments were very very good; one massage (Mohom massage) with Mike was truly memorable (90 minutes $48.00)
Favorite dining in rank order
1 L'Elephant Blanc in the Maison Souvarannephoun Hotel (delicious Lao food and lovely patio overlooking a pretty pool); 2) L Residence Hotel 3) Villa Santi Resort 3) 3 Elephants. Did not have a good meal at 3 Nagas, disappointing given all the good notices.
Best shopping: 1) Lisa Regale Fusion Gallery(a Hungarian designer married to a Lao) designs clothing with great style; on Bon Xieng Thong 42/4. 2)silver jewelry - King Palace on Ban Watthat. Bought a lovely silver bracelet of modern design for $140 3) weavings, scarves: sat Lao Silk in Ban Xang Khong village (a few miles outside LP. Good qualilty workmanship; the shops in town with good quality are absurdly expensive.
Favorite experiences: wandering the small streets of LP and soaking up the leisurely pace, enjoying the food(their Lao beer also tasty) and above all, appreciating the gentleness of the people. Our very well educated guide Ming had a fascinting story to tell about her upbringing. Her father was a viceroy and cousin to the former king. For her safety and education, she was sent to France at age sixteen; her father spent eight years "getting re-educated".I learned alot about her country through her stories of then and now.
I'm sure every Asian location has its champions and I feel lucky to have traveled to Asia over the past eight years. I have very much enjoyed Nepal,north and south India,Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar but only Myanmar calls me back almost as much as Luang Prabang does.
More trip report sections to follow. Our flight from HCMC to Taipei will be called shortly. Happy New Year to all.
We flew from Bangkok to LP on Lao Air, a prop jet, maybe 50 seats, comfortable enough. Eddie at SeaTours did the ticketing and all went smoothly.
Our hotel, Le Residence Phou Vao, was very fine. Rooms were spacious,wonderful teak floors and much use of wood, bathrooms big with good amenities, everything spotlessly clean. As everywhere, some views more desireable than others. Hotel food very tasty and well presented; service was attentive among all hotel staff. Spa treatments were very very good; one massage (Mohom massage) with Mike was truly memorable (90 minutes $48.00)
Favorite dining in rank order
1 L'Elephant Blanc in the Maison Souvarannephoun Hotel (delicious Lao food and lovely patio overlooking a pretty pool); 2) L Residence Hotel 3) Villa Santi Resort 3) 3 Elephants. Did not have a good meal at 3 Nagas, disappointing given all the good notices.
Best shopping: 1) Lisa Regale Fusion Gallery(a Hungarian designer married to a Lao) designs clothing with great style; on Bon Xieng Thong 42/4. 2)silver jewelry - King Palace on Ban Watthat. Bought a lovely silver bracelet of modern design for $140 3) weavings, scarves: sat Lao Silk in Ban Xang Khong village (a few miles outside LP. Good qualilty workmanship; the shops in town with good quality are absurdly expensive.
Favorite experiences: wandering the small streets of LP and soaking up the leisurely pace, enjoying the food(their Lao beer also tasty) and above all, appreciating the gentleness of the people. Our very well educated guide Ming had a fascinting story to tell about her upbringing. Her father was a viceroy and cousin to the former king. For her safety and education, she was sent to France at age sixteen; her father spent eight years "getting re-educated".I learned alot about her country through her stories of then and now.
I'm sure every Asian location has its champions and I feel lucky to have traveled to Asia over the past eight years. I have very much enjoyed Nepal,north and south India,Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Myanmar but only Myanmar calls me back almost as much as Luang Prabang does.
More trip report sections to follow. Our flight from HCMC to Taipei will be called shortly. Happy New Year to all.
Jan 5th, 2007, 06:03 AM
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So glad you had a wonderful time. LP has changed so much in the few short years since we were there (a spa?? bracelets that cost $140?) but it sounds like the people and the lovely atmosphere are unchanged.
Jan 5th, 2007, 06:30 AM
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Thanks for the report! I'm also glad to hear of someone else in love with Luang Prabang. But $48 massages and $140 bracelets! Wow! I'm thinking of going back for Christmas - hope it won't have changed too much. Last time I was there (Dec 2004) they were busy putting in neat brick walkways...
Jan 6th, 2007, 08:38 AM
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RobbieTravels,
Very interested in your views of Luang Prabang. Could you tell us what room (or area) you would recommend at the Le Residence. It would be nice to request ahead, if there's a choice. Also, was the 3 1/2 days enough time?
Thanks for your input
Very interested in your views of Luang Prabang. Could you tell us what room (or area) you would recommend at the Le Residence. It would be nice to request ahead, if there's a choice. Also, was the 3 1/2 days enough time?
Thanks for your input
Jan 6th, 2007, 02:02 PM
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i was there 4 nites and i found that to be perfect....
we had room 104 i believe and it was right next to the pool---the very first room and just across from the lobby and the dining room....we loved it...
we had room 104 i believe and it was right next to the pool---the very first room and just across from the lobby and the dining room....we loved it...
Jan 6th, 2007, 08:30 PM
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Fun to read your report -- we were just in LP over the holidays and we loved it too.
Kathie - fear not, as LP is not all $140 bracelets and spas (though there are certainly those options at the Phou Vao and Maison). The town is still mostly $3 foot massages and $1/day bike rentals.
Kathie - fear not, as LP is not all $140 bracelets and spas (though there are certainly those options at the Phou Vao and Maison). The town is still mostly $3 foot massages and $1/day bike rentals.
Jan 7th, 2007, 01:58 PM
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Thanks for your enthusiastic responses. Here's some info and clarifications. We flew one way BKK -LP on Bangkok Air (then flew on to Hanoi via Vientanne). I believe the fare was about $165-175 pp. I saw it advertisied for $20-$35 less on the internet but felt more secure having a responsive person to deal with in case of any unpleasant surprises. Fortunately all went smoothly; nonethless, my peace of mind was worth the upcharge.
At La Residence we were in room 211 or 212, I believe. It was upstairs. Our friends got room 108. These were deluxe mountain view rooms with terrace. The upstairs rooms in the 100 building have the most expansive views imo.
Please don't be put off by the prices I mentioned. I have an unfortunate habit of being attracted to the most costly item in any shop well before knowing the price. I did get market jewelry for $5-$25. I did purchase lovely silk scarves at the market for $2-4 each (pay attention to how they are finished) and the long, stunning weaving I'm getting ready to hang up a stairway was about $45 at Lao Silk (compared to hundreds at swank in town shops).
If you just stay in town, I think 3-4 days is enough to get a sense of the place.
There are many hikes and side trips possible, including an elephant adventure. We took a boat ride to the Pak Ou caves with a stop at the whisky village. Of course, it is touristy but by hanging around for a few hours (we hired our own boat for the two couples) I got to interact with some of the kids and had delightful chats with some vendors. Even their sales approach is gentle. (I was not treated solely as a revenue source, which is how I felt in places in Vietnam, India and Tanzania).
I'm sure LP was much more pristine ten years ago but my guess is that modernization, commercialization and consumerism has not destroyed the essence of LP.
At La Residence we were in room 211 or 212, I believe. It was upstairs. Our friends got room 108. These were deluxe mountain view rooms with terrace. The upstairs rooms in the 100 building have the most expansive views imo.
Please don't be put off by the prices I mentioned. I have an unfortunate habit of being attracted to the most costly item in any shop well before knowing the price. I did get market jewelry for $5-$25. I did purchase lovely silk scarves at the market for $2-4 each (pay attention to how they are finished) and the long, stunning weaving I'm getting ready to hang up a stairway was about $45 at Lao Silk (compared to hundreds at swank in town shops).
If you just stay in town, I think 3-4 days is enough to get a sense of the place.
There are many hikes and side trips possible, including an elephant adventure. We took a boat ride to the Pak Ou caves with a stop at the whisky village. Of course, it is touristy but by hanging around for a few hours (we hired our own boat for the two couples) I got to interact with some of the kids and had delightful chats with some vendors. Even their sales approach is gentle. (I was not treated solely as a revenue source, which is how I felt in places in Vietnam, India and Tanzania).
I'm sure LP was much more pristine ten years ago but my guess is that modernization, commercialization and consumerism has not destroyed the essence of LP.
Jan 7th, 2007, 02:50 PM
#12
Robbie - glad you enjoyed your trip. It brings back memories... and yes, I too found something just a bit more pristine about Luang Prabang than other places I've been. It's still very special. Thanks!
Jan 7th, 2007, 03:44 PM
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About our guide Ming. She was reluctant to give us a direct contact for her. She contracted with HaiVenu tours out of Hanoi and Saigon for our guiding. She seemed to have warm and friendly interactions with all the reception staff at La Residence so I image you could request her as a guide if you stay at the hotel. On my infamous silver bracelet, I got it at King Silver (on the way in to town from La Res; the place is a small shack/workshop, the father was silversmith to former king.Bracelet is about 3" wide of solid silver in concave shape with two types of ribbing on the front; it would cost $350-500 easy in Los
Angeles.
Angeles.
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