The Road to Hong Kong - Part 1<BR><BR>This is a very long trip report, with many personal observations and ruminations. I suspect that it will be boring to some, and if it becomes so, please go on to the next post. It has a lot of nitty-gritty, details of how to get from here to there, what to expect, how to do this or that, a lot of info which I did not find elsewhere, and which I hope some people may find useful. I will not dwell on the usual tourist sites.<BR><BR>My wife and I went to China with Uniworld from May 8 to 30. The tour included Beijing, Xian, Chengdu, Tibet, Chonqing, Yangtze, Wuhan, Shanghai, Guilin, and Hong Kong. We got our Visa through Generations Visa Service as recommended by Uniworld. Visa for Tibet was included.<BR><BR>If you have any thoughts of China, I can tell you that what you think it is, it isn't; and what you think it isn't, it is. I good part of this trip is the excitement of being surprised with wonderful findings.<BR><BR>We went a day early since we did not want to be jet-lagged at the start. We got upgraded to Business on NWA by FF points. Actually, it was through Continental using Amex points. Complicated, but worked. We were able to use the business lounges, which were good, even though the fare was meager. There was plenty of food on the flights.<BR><BR>Beijing - We got to B at 9PM Thursday night, May 9, and went easily through immigration and customs. Guide met us at the airport, 20 min ride to Kempinski Hotel, which is on the third ring road. The hotel was good, with an impressive lobby. We got a small room with 2 single beds, TV cabinet, desk, small table and chair, nice bathroom, but minimal drawer space so we could not unpack fully. Got Yuan (U-EN) at ATM, had limit of 2500 Y (about $300).<BR><BR>Next morning (Friday) had breakfast at hotel, the usual, typical American breakfast with good choices. My wife had a Swedish massage in the AM, 320Y for 60 min. She loved it, gave 40Y tip. We then took a taxi to the Palace Hotel to see what it was like. Taxi was 20 min, 22Y. The hotel seemed more upscale than the Kempinski. We walked from there 15 min to the Forbidden City, then to Tiananmen Square, and went into the Museum of Chinese History. The building was huge and clean on the outside, bit shabby inside. There were 3 exhibits, which cost 30Y, or 15Y if you are "aged" (over 60). The exhibits of calligraphy and old pottery had no English signs, but was very good with an audio guide (30Y). Then we went to the silk market which had many stalls selling T shirts, handbags, wathches, clothes, etc. Back to Kempinski, wandered through the supermarket which had everything you can find at home. Prices slightly higher. Bought water, the first of many. Local water is much cheaper than imports. Then through large department store, bought birthday cards in Chinese.

Part 2<BR><BR>Twice while walking, we were greeted by 3 young people who said that they just wanted to practice their English. Turned out that they wanted us to go see their paintings in their "art school", and buy them, but we declined. In most tourist places, people tried to sell us things, but we found it best to firmly say, No thank you. It was helpful to know how to say hello (nee-how) and thank you (shay-shay).<BR><BR>The city of Beijing is a very large flat area. There were many hugely wide roads, and many overpasses and tunnels, all choked with cars and bicycles. There was fog and smog but no dust. There were innumerable immense, modern, architecturally innovative buildings, sprinkled on the landscape. New construction was everywhere. Most building and road signs had some English on them. There were many American chain restaurants, and many knock-offs. It was surprising to me how many people spoke some English - until I realized how American investment has changed the country. What a difference Nixon's 1972 trip made. How many millions died of terror in the 1960's and 70's - and how prosperous everyone looked now (at least those we saw) with the Western capitalist invasion.<BR><BR>Sat - We joined our Uniworld group of 29 people and a Chinese tour leader who spoke English well. We drove to Tiananmen Square and walked from there through the Forbideen City. Then the usual Chinese lunch on the way to the Summer Palace. There was such a heavy haze that it was difficult to see the other side of the large man-made lake in the palace grounds. After dinner we went to see the B Opera which consisted of 3 scenes of men posing and mock fighting with swords. Costumes were very colorful and there was just a little singing. It lasted about an hour and I recommend it.<BR><BR>The clothing worn in the cities ranged from common peasant to smart casual (most) to business wear, all the people talking on their cell phones. Most wore black pants, but every color is seen. Anything is acceptable for walking around town. The only time people will notice is if you are a young woman with long blond hair.<BR><BR>Sun - we drove an hour to the mountainous Badaling section of the Great Wall. There were 2 sections - a right section which was easier but more crowded, and a left section which was steeper. We went up the left and reached the end of the restored area in 45 min. It was steep but doable. The sun appeared and it was hot. Thousands of foreigners and many more thousands of native Chinese visit the wall every day. You could barely imagine the one million people who slaved to build the wall over the centuries. Then we drove a short distance to the Ming Tombs. Again the immense size of the area and buildings were astounding.

Part 3<BR><BR>Mon - We visited the Temple of Heaven, another example of the amazing architectural ability of the Chinese 5 centuries ago. On to Xian.<BR><BR>XIAN - China Northwest Air A 320, 1 1/2 hr. Rain. 1 hr drive to city. Stayed at Hyatt. Xian is a "moderate" city of 7 million people and the traffic was just as bad as Beijing. The only difference was that cars and buses pass by going over the double center stripe and driving on the wrong side of the street. Buses and cars also drive at night without headlights, cut each other off, and aim for all pedestrians and bicyclists in the street who don't seem to care.<BR><BR>Tues - Rain. Went to the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, saw Buddist monks and nuns praying because it was a holy day. Then to see the terracota warriors, about an hour away. There was a large area of several new impressive buildings, a museum and a restaurant, covering 3 digs. Estimates are for 7000 warriors and horses, about 1000 repaired and standing. It looks like many years of work to get them all repaired as they were found shattered. At night we went to the Tang Dynasty Cultural Show, with colorful costumes and dancing, which was enjoyed by most people, but I felt that it was straight out of the 1940's movie musical extravaganzas.<BR><BR>Wed - Rain then haze.Went to the wall surrounding X. Wall is rectangular, 2.5x3.5 miles, about 30 ft wide. You can rent a bike to ride on it. There are only a few openings in the wall which make getting in and out of the city a nightmare, as if more traffic blockage is needed. On to Chengdu.<BR><BR>CHENGDU - China Northern Air, MD 90, 2-3, 1 hr, snack. Heavy haze on landing. Airport large and modern. Chengdu has 10 mil people, and many large, modern buildings. Stayed at Sheraton Lido, a modern Hotel with attentive service. We walked through a street market selling everything from peas to puppies, film to frogs, and haircuts to hares, all the time dodging cars and pedicycles, garbage and puddles. With modernization, there are only a few old streets, and we walked through one area, which was lined with black walls with openings to small old houses in which 3-4 families live. The area is scheduled to be torn down. All through the city are stores where you can buy anything.<BR><BR>Thurs - Heavy haze. Went to see the giant pandas, 1 hr outof town. Saw momma and 2 cubs. This is where there is the largest number of pandas because bamboo grows well here. You can have your picture taken holding a baby panda for only 200Y - Get it now! Back through the town to the airport. Traffic is mind-boggling. Cars go every which way, death defying passes over the center line in heavy traffic, switching lanes helter skelter. Buses going against traffic on a one way street. Cars going the wrong way around a traffic circle. There is absolutely no concept of courtesy or rules of the road. On to Tibet.

Part 4<BR><BR>TIBET - China Southwest Air, A340, 2-4-2, 2 hr., snack, filled with locals, no assigned seats. Soon we see a large beautiful snow covered mountain range. Approaching Lhasa, we fly between mountain peaks, landing on a plateau at 12,000 ft. we drive 2 hrs to Lhasa, at the same elevation, check into Lhasa Hotel. The hotel is showing its age, but the rooms are the same size as the others. The rooms on the first floor are less desirable. We walk more slowly and rest.<BR><BR>Fri - Sunny and hot. We walked through the central square to the Jokhang temple, the most sacred building in Tibet. Many open stalls selling everything. Many prople walking the cccora outside and inside the temple with prayer wheels. Inside the stones are slippery with yak butter oil used to keep the candles butning. Then to the Sera monastery, where Buddist monks were in training.<BR><BR>Sat - partly cloudy. Toured Patola Palace and Museum. One of our group was light headed, one had delusions and went to the hospital for some shot and was cured, one had the GI's which was cured in 24 hrs with 2 doses of Bactrim Forte. Our guide, Yang Xu, was really great throughout, especially handling the health problems and all of the hundreds of problems with food, rooms, scheduling, etc. Had dinner at the Crazy Yak Restaurant. (Could it have been the Tibetan equivalent of Mad Cow?)<BR><BR>Ruminations - In China, there is no museum, temple, exhibition, tour, trip, visit, or event that does not end in a souvenier shop or merchandise offer, preceeded and followed by sidewalk stalls and hawkers. Each one says "Hello, Hello", to get your attention. Some thrust their wares in your way and follow you. But it pays, as some in our group bought anything and everything at any place for any price.<BR><BR>Booths manned by peasants selling the same items line whatever path ever taken by any tourist in the history of China. I don't know how they all make a living. City sidewalks are sprinkeled with with goods from antiques to genuine fake Rolexes. If you don't want a hassle, it is best not to make eye contact.<BR><BR>As for paying for things, I felt that it was best to get a reasonable amount of Yuan from an ATM as soon as you can and make sure you have smll bills. Also bring some US cash and dollar bills. It is best to pay for the small stuff (tips, water, souveniers, etc.) in the asked currency - dollars or Yuan, rather than try to convert one into the other. Credit cards can be used for bug purchases in most places. Bargaining is a must and has been discussed elsewhere.<BR><BR>Sun - woke up at 5:30. On to Yangtze.

Part 5<BR><BR>Travelling to YANGTZE - 2 hr bus to airport. 757, 3-3, 1 1/2 hr. Landed at Chengdu amid heavy fog, smog, haze, shmaze, mist, pollution, etc. Then 5 hr busride to Chongqing (Chong-chin). We drove, as we were told that air service to Chongqing was unreliable, and I could see why. Along the way the countryside was covered by farms, terraced farms, and rice paddies with prople wading ankle-deep in them.<BR><BR>Drove to the dock to get on the boat. As we got off the bus, we were surrounded by a horde of locals who grabbed our arms to help us down a long flight of dimly-lit stairs. It took many "NO's" and some pushing to force them away. Then we walked along a long dark, narrow jerry-rigged floating walkway to the boat. I felt sympathy for these poor people, but it was an unpleasant and unnerving experience. We boarded the Victoria II and finally to sleep after an exhausting day.<BR><BR>ON the YANGTZE - Mon - Ship left 9 AM. Usual American breakfast, Chinese buffet lunch. Passed Fulin at 1 PM. This was the town Peter Hessler wrote about in "River Town". Actually, there were innumerable large buildings on a hill, and I would call it a large city, but our river guide said that there were hundreds of similar cities in China. I was surprised that bridges spanned the river, abd they will survive the dam. In the afternoon we stopped at Fengdu to take the T-bar lift (20Y) to the Temple of Hell - very interesting. Then walked through the busy, colorful city which will be flooded.<BR><BR>Breakfasts on The Victoria were adequate but not nearly as good as in any hotel. Lunch was a buffet with a few choices, and dinner was the usual lazy susan with 6 cold and 6 hot dishes, soup, and "dessert". They advertise "Western food," but it was sparse. Beverages provided were tea, water, and Pepsi. Diet Pepsi and alcohol extra. If you want a cup of HOT coffee, or other than green tea, forget it.<BR><BR>The bright young crew give excellent care for the ship, your room, laundry, and safety aboard and off the ship. Most, but not all, can speak some English. If you need someting, find someone who speaks English, rather than fight a losing cause.<BR><BR>Tues - mistly. 6AM pass through Qutang gorge. 8AM boarded 40 seat motorized sampans up the Danning River to see the 3 lesser gorges. 4 hr up, had box lunch on rocky river bank. 2 hr back. Pass through Wu gorge, dock for the night at Zigui. The 3 lesser gorges are very impressive. They may be seen either by going north from the Yangtze up the Danning River or the nearby Shennong stream, depending on the water conditions.<BR><BR>There are signs along the gorges noting the 135 and 175 meter levels. The banks had many ghost towns and buildings, farms, and terraced farms which will be flooded. It is awesome to realize that these areas, which have been built and worked by unimaginable hard miserable labor over the centuries will be submerged forever. But newer, higher, larger cities are being built into which these peasants will be dragged into the 21st century.

Part 6<BR><BR>Wed - Woke up early to see Xilling gorge. Actually saw the hot sun for 15 minutes. Later we passed through the diversional channel of the 3 Gorges Dam site and docked past the dam. Took a bus up to a high observation point from where there is a good view of the project, which is remarkable. Then continuing downstream for 2 hr we pass through the Gezhouba dam by the ship lock. After this, the Yangtze gets wide, and the landscape flat. <BR><BR>For the Captain's Banquet we dress up, as most people put on the clothes which remained presentable after 13 days. The "Banquet" consisted of the usual 12 course presentation accompanied by frequent toasts made with watered-down champagne. The captain was dragged to each table to make a toast in Chinese. I suspect he would rather have had a root canal. The evening ended with a show given by some of the crew who had surprisingly good talent in dancing and singing, and a few amateurish but enthusiastic performances by some of the passengers. We sailed to Wuhan through the night.<BR><BR>Thurs - Sunny. Arrived in Wuhan., disembarked. Wuhan is an average sized city of 9 million. It has the usual hustle-bustle traffic and large architecturally immaginative buildings. There are pedestrian bridges along the main roads which keep the walkers off the roads. 4 long bridges over the Yangtze connect the city split by the river. Outside the center the road is lined with reasonable apartment houses. But when you look between the building you can see, hidden away, what appeard to be smaller, shabby houses behind the apartment houses. We visit the Bonsai Museum (OK) and the Hubei Museum with a new building which houses many, many recently found magnificent objects of the tomb of the Marquis Yi of Zeng who lived 2300 years ago. Most significant were a set of 65 huge bronze bells which can actually be played. When he died, 21 musicians were buried along with him so they can play for him when he wanted. There is a concert hall where present-day musicians play the bells and other ancient instruments for 15 minutes (30Y). This is a certified "WOW". Don't miss it. On to Shanghai.<BR>

Part 7<BR><BR>SHANGHAI - China Southwest, 757, 1 hr, plane full, actually managed to give eneryone a hot snack. Got to Shanghai at night, 30 min drive to Hilton. <BR><BR>Fir - mostly misty. Early morning short walk to Jing An Park to see hundreds of people doing their morning exercises of Tai Chi, line dancing, stretching, and walking their birds. Then a walk through the Yu Yuan Gardens in the center of town, and the Bund by the river. Took a taxi to the Ohel Moishe Synagogue where we had a marvelous recounting (50Y) of the Jewish experience in Shanghai in WW II. Mr. Wang, an 83 year old Chinese resident of the area who was there in WW II gave us a long walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto and war memorial. He felt so honored to give us this tour and sharing his knowledge, which appararently he does not do often, that he did not want to let us go. We felt so priviledged because soon he may be gone and his first-hand knowledge and experience lost forever.<BR><BR>In the afternoon we visited the Children's Palace to see the young children playing old and new instruments, singing, and dancing, which was surprisingly good. In the evening we went to see the Shanghai Acrobats which was 1 1/2 hr of 12 acts of tumbling, juggling, magic, and card tricks, each one more amazing than the other.<BR><BR>Sat - mistly. Taxi to Peace Hotel, looked around. Took pedestrian subway (a must, 50Y) under river to Podong. Walked past Tower of Oriental Pearl to Jin Mao Tower, took elevator to Sky Walk at 88th fl (good). Took ferry (0.5Y) back to Bund. While I could describe the architecture of previous cities with many adjectives, Shanghai gets only "breathtaking". On to Guilin.<BR><BR>GUILIN - plane 2 hr late. China Eastern Air, A 300 2-4-2, 2:15 hr. To Sheraton Hotel, right on Li River. Room was exactly the same size as all the previous. <BR><BR>Sun - hazy sun. Guilin is a small town of 400K, but you would never guess it by the ongoing construction. There is a tremendous of Chinese and foreign visitors daily. 40 min drive to Li River cruise, 4 hr, lunch provided brought our own lunch. Most of cruise was picturesque. 1 hr drive back, Stopped at Prince Jin Jang Palace, visited art "museum" (which I believe is a required stop). When we realized that it was just to sell art, we left. Took walk along Li River and a very nice pedestrian mall one block behind hotel. At night it was filled with flashing neon signs and people strolling and buying.<BR><BR>Mon - mild haze. Walked through Reed Cave, 30 min, quite nice. Got rid of remaining Y. On to Hong Kong.

Part 8<BR><BR>HONG KONG - China Southern 737, 3-3, 1hr. Arrived at HK Humongous Airport. 40 min to HK Island over world's longest suspension bridge. Stayed at Mandarin Oriental Hotel, excellent. Rooms same size. Can get drinkable water out of special sink tap. Got HK dollars. Had very good dinner at Va Bene, Central District, expensive, 10 min walk. HK food is expensive at all hotels and restaurants. <BR><BR>Tues - mild haze - Drove up to Victoria peak, walked around Stanley Market (usual stuff), and took sampan around Aberdeen Harbor, 15 min, (50HKD) to see the "boat people" who live their lives on the boat. Was taken to "Jewelery Factory" which can easily be missed. Had High Tea at Penninsula Hotel. The regular High Tea costs 165 HKD ($21) and consists of 2 scones with clotted cream and 6 small tea sandwiches and pastry, and a pot of tea. With the addition of another pot of tea, it is enough for 2. The final bill is about 250 HKD ($32), which we felt was worth the experience. Walked up Nathan Road to Jade Market, not much. Better was walking through nearby food market.<BR><BR>HK buildings are tall and skinny, and packed together because there is so little land. Many of the buildings have the unusual architecture, but it is not as spectacular as Shanghai because it is difficult to see. Had excellent dinner at SoHo SoHo, Mid Levels district, moderate. Took "Mid Levels Escalator" to get there, getting there was half the fun. This consists of a series of escalators (free) going from Central part way up Victoria Hill. You can get off at many points, and have to walk down. Do at least part of it. Took Star Ferry to Kowloon (1.7 HKD, free for seniors over 65). Stayed on for ride back, view of HK shore remarkable.<BR><BR>Wed - Took boat tour of harbor (not much). Went part way up escalators for pizza at San Marzano, (very good), then most way up to Ohel Leah Synagogue, a small well-preserved Gothic building, near high-rise containing Jewish school, shop, etc. Had final posh dinner at Vong's, overlooking harbor, expensive.<BR><BR>Thurs - After 21 exciting days, we leave misty China. HKG - NRT - EWR. 16 hr flying, 24 hr airport to airport, 30 hr door to door. <BR><BR>Whew! What a trip. Said Hello 16,729 times, No 62,717, Neehow 10,528, Shayshay 4,486. <BR><BR>Dave

Dave,<BR>Thank you for your terrific narrative. We read with great interest about your adventures. We leave for China on the 26th of June with Uniworld for what appears to be the same trip that you experienced. How would you rate Uniworld? Did you fly United from the states? Thanks again for sharing your experiences.<BR>Jay

Uniworld was a little difficult in the paper department, but the mechanics of the trip were as promised. Everything went off smoothly. A lot depended on the great ability of our guide to take care of the many, many large and small problems as they arose.<BR><BR>We made our own air arrangements. We live near Philly and left from Newark (EWR) on Northwest (NWA).<BR><BR>I can recommend Uniworld as reliable.<BR><BR>I did not make it ckear that a few of the places and restaurants that we went to were on our own, and were not part of the scheduled tour, especially in Shanghai and HK. In HK, only breakfast was included.

great report Dave. Thanks for taking the trouble. We are going to Hong Kong next month.

Great report Dave. Just came from HongKong last month. Am hoping to see China soon.

Ah ha!!! Found it!!! So nice to read this.....we did trod a lot of the same path. I too was on the Vicky 2....cabin 222!!...only we went the other way and ended in C.qing. How did you like that staircase!!!! We actually got to avoid climbing it and put it further up..but I think it was the only stair case we avoided!!!! <BR> <BR>You did better than I on the Great Wall...I went to the right and only got past the 2nd tower....but hey....I was happy...and even took my pic of my foot on the first trod upon the wall!!!! Goofy tourist!!! <BR><BR>Anyway..nice report.....made me homesick to go back!!! Thanks.

Dave, you wrote the following: <BR><BR>Took a taxi to the Ohel Moishe Synagogue where we had a marvelous recounting (50Y) of the Jewish experience in Shanghai in WW II. Mr. Wang, an 83 year old Chinese resident of the area who was there in WW II gave us a long walking tour of the old Jewish ghetto and war memorial. <BR><BR>Question how can we find Mr. Wang, would like to meet with him and visit the synagogue. <BR>We will be leaving from JFK and live upstate NY and are not looking forward to the long trip. My husband is 6' tall what is the leg room like on the planes you flew in China.<BR><BR>Thanks, Susan

Wang Fa Liang was one of two guides at the synagogue. It is at 62 Changyang Rd. First he gave us a small tour of the museum with remains of the synagogue, then I asked him to give us a tour of the old ghetto.<BR><BR>For more info, email me, or google "ohel moishe". There is a web site, &lt;www.moishe.sh.cn&gt; which does not work, and an email address, &lt;[email protected]&gt; which I have not tried. I have telephone numbers.<BR><BR>We upgraded to business on NW with FF points. We thought it was worth it.

Dave:<BR><BR>Thanks for calling my attention to your compprehensive trip report. It makes us more eager than ever to visit China, and your vote of confidence in Uniworld was most helpful.

It is now 2006, and I doubt if you are still looking at this site, but if you are, I would like to know how you &quot;got away&quot; from tour to see the Jewish quarter.How long did the whole experience take, including taxi ride.In every tour I look at, every minute seems accounted for and there is no time to go off on one's own. I am very interested in seeing this area. Is it far fromm the center?

Great report Dave. It brought back fun memories of my China travels.

Anyone interested in the Jewish experience in Shanghai during WWII should immediatly read &quot;Shanghai Diary&quot; by Ursula Bacon, a firsthand account of a young girl in Shanghai.