The Real Lowdown on Phnom Penh
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2004
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The Real Lowdown on Phnom Penh
I've seen mixed reviews about this city and would love to see some specific rants and raves about it from this sage crowd. Is it worth 2-3 days in its own right? How does it compare to Hanoi in regards to size, attractions and walkability?
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
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I only spent one night in PP but in that time, was able to go to the Killing Fields, Tuol Sleung Museum and the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, and walk along the river a bit. I would go back and spend more time there. Two full days would probably be about right from what I could see, maybe even a day and a half if you only want to spend two nights there. I didn't feel rushed in the amount of time we had there but we only saw a small part of PP. The Killing Fields and museum (both well worth it) took up a little more than half the day.
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
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degas, we did not have a very good experience in PP. I guess I'd give it another chance, but it's the worst poverty I've ever seen (granted, I've not yet been to India). Compared to Siem Reap, where we felt comfortable and safe, we felt uneasy in PP. Seemed like every other person we encountered tried to rip us off in some way or another, including a major scam involving the return of lost property.
My take on the attractions: It's lovely to walk along the river (except for the children begging) and stop in for a drink at the Foreign Correspondents Club. The museum is definitely worth seeing and is the major reason to visit PP IMO. The markets can be fun if you like that sort of thing, although the gems are often not what they are advertised as. The Royal Palace is very pleasant, but lacking the over-the-top glitz of Bangkok's Grand Palace. I think it would be a let down if you were expecting something similar.
I deliberately did not go to the Killing Fields or Tuol Sleng because I no longer subject myself to that sort of horror. But I agree that it is important to know about them. You must decide for yourself whether you want to go there.
You've seen enough of my postings on the Europe board to know that we usually have good experiences. PP was a real exception. We loved the Cambodian people we encountered in SR, but just didn't feel the same in PP. I wouldn't say not to go, but I wouldn't be walking down any dark alleys at night.
My take on the attractions: It's lovely to walk along the river (except for the children begging) and stop in for a drink at the Foreign Correspondents Club. The museum is definitely worth seeing and is the major reason to visit PP IMO. The markets can be fun if you like that sort of thing, although the gems are often not what they are advertised as. The Royal Palace is very pleasant, but lacking the over-the-top glitz of Bangkok's Grand Palace. I think it would be a let down if you were expecting something similar.
I deliberately did not go to the Killing Fields or Tuol Sleng because I no longer subject myself to that sort of horror. But I agree that it is important to know about them. You must decide for yourself whether you want to go there.
You've seen enough of my postings on the Europe board to know that we usually have good experiences. PP was a real exception. We loved the Cambodian people we encountered in SR, but just didn't feel the same in PP. I wouldn't say not to go, but I wouldn't be walking down any dark alleys at night.
#6
Joined: Feb 2003
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We stayed in PP for 3 nights (after 5 in Siem Reap) and quite liked it. Its not very large and fairly easy to get around but quite dirty (I came back with a bonus bug!). The markets are worth a look and the Museum is good as a lot of the sculptures from Angkor are there. We stayed at the FCC which was a good place to stay as we didn't have to venture far in the evenings - I certainly wouldn't want to walk out and about far at night. There are many beggars and lots of street kids. We went to Friends which is an organization for teaching and helping the kids - they have a restaurant for teaching and things like a Nail bar(fingers) and shop in the same complex. That was good. Staying at the FCC we spent some time sitting on the balcony overlooking the river and watching the passers by. There are a couple of "beggar" spots with regular beggars. Very interesting to watch them fleece people all day and then climb onto either a big motorbike or into a van to go home at night. They obviously were doing well. I know there are many many people who really have no choice but to beg and need help dreadfully but these guys were making a killing! I much preferred the ones that at least tried to do something for the money - like in Angkor all the disabled musicians who were outside the temples - I'll happily give them something.
I'd still like to go back again and see PP - its 3 years since we were there and I'm sure it will have inproved in that time.
I'd still like to go back again and see PP - its 3 years since we were there and I'm sure it will have inproved in that time.
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#8
Joined: Nov 2005
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I was about to post a question on length of time in PNP, when I came across this posting. I have 5 days between ending an organized Thailand tour and 4 days in Siem Reap. Before getting templed out, I'd like to take two days at the beach and am heading by bus for Sihanoukville.(also a way of seeing more of the country. ) Has anyone been there? any suggestions? An inexpensive guest house? which beach?
That would leave me with a little more than half day in PNP on returning because there's only one early morning boat on Tonle Sap to get from PNP to SR where I have to be the following day, having booked a guide. Does this all seem rediculous or feasible? I'm a single older woman traveler and have no intention of wandering the city at night.
That would leave me with a little more than half day in PNP on returning because there's only one early morning boat on Tonle Sap to get from PNP to SR where I have to be the following day, having booked a guide. Does this all seem rediculous or feasible? I'm a single older woman traveler and have no intention of wandering the city at night.
#9
Joined: Jan 2003
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rsrs
Instead of taking the expensive boat to SR, take the bus. The road is in good shape (although not as good as the PP/Sihanoukville road which is the best in Cambodia) and it only takes 5-6 hours, the same as the boat. The best bus is the Mekong Express which costs $9 (just increased from 6) has a bathroom, is a/c and leaves around 12.30. If the only reason for taking the boat is to see the lake a much better option is to hire a boat once in SR to visit the floating village.
Instead of taking the expensive boat to SR, take the bus. The road is in good shape (although not as good as the PP/Sihanoukville road which is the best in Cambodia) and it only takes 5-6 hours, the same as the boat. The best bus is the Mekong Express which costs $9 (just increased from 6) has a bathroom, is a/c and leaves around 12.30. If the only reason for taking the boat is to see the lake a much better option is to hire a boat once in SR to visit the floating village.
#11
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 74
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Everybody seems so down on Phnom Penh. If you want clean nice touring, no it's for you. If you want to meet ,see and feel the country of Cambodia, I recommend it. I actually felt safer there than at Siem Reap. They are struggling to pull away from a tough past and are grateful for visitors from the west. Siem Reap is overrated and the temples were built in the 1100's. If you need to see ruins, go to Rome...they're a thousand years older and the restaurants in the area are a lot better.
#13


Joined: May 2003
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I just wanted to add my 2 cents about PP. I spent a day and evening there on a river cruise last November. I really liked this city a lot. We saw the Royal Palace, Tuol Sleng, Killing Fields, National Museum & market. My friend and I (both females in our 30's) left the boat and walked along the river after dinner and had drinks at a bar with a balcony to people watch. It was during Water Festival, so it was busy and great fun! We never felt unsafe--we stayed on the river and didn't venture down dark alleys. I loved my time in Cambodia and found the people to be friendly and kind. I really enjoyed my time in PP and want to go back to explore some more there. As for the poverty, I just returned from India (will do report here soon) and the poverty I saw in India was much worse.
#14
Joined: May 2004
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I stayed in PP a year ago for three days. The killing fields and Tuol Sleng were particularly emotional experiences but ones that I would recommend to anyone travelling in asia.
There are a lot of lessons the western world should draw from the experiences of the Cambodian people (i.e. stop making landmines!).
As for the poverty and beggars,what do people expect in one of the world's poorest countries? As ever the best way of eradicatng poverty is never give to beggars but, use local businesses & restaurants where possible particularly those who train and employ the street kids and make a donation to an approprite local charity.
There are a lot of lessons the western world should draw from the experiences of the Cambodian people (i.e. stop making landmines!).
As for the poverty and beggars,what do people expect in one of the world's poorest countries? As ever the best way of eradicatng poverty is never give to beggars but, use local businesses & restaurants where possible particularly those who train and employ the street kids and make a donation to an approprite local charity.




