The Best Exotic Off-Season Holiday: Udaipur/Varanasi/Agra/ Delhi
Oct 3rd, 2012, 05:44 AM
#21
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Bookmarking. Can't wait to follow along. Still working on our February India trip..I know it is getting close, but travel partner in Peru right now and we are busy getting ready for China trip. Also wanted to wait on your feedback since we are considering a similar (but reverse direction) itinerary...Delhi to Varanasi to Khajuraho to Orchha to Agra to Udaipur to Delhi. 12 total nights on ground.
We, too, are empty nesters this fall after almost 22 years of 24/7 parenting.
We, too, are empty nesters this fall after almost 22 years of 24/7 parenting.
Oct 4th, 2012, 06:17 PM
#25
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lol re finding serenity at the Anokhi outlet. That's MY kind of spirtiual nirvana!
I'll bet you understand now why the villages in Uganda and Kenya seemed so much less vibrant /colorful than expected. But of course, NOTHING compares to India.
I'll bet you understand now why the villages in Uganda and Kenya seemed so much less vibrant /colorful than expected. But of course, NOTHING compares to India.
Oct 4th, 2012, 09:22 PM
#27
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Wow, thanks everyone. I'm getting very close to posting the actual day-to-day trip report and appreciate your patience.
fun4all4, Congrats to your new college student, and to you on your new lifestyle and your many trips. Crazy that we came up with such similar itineraries. The adjustment has not been so easy for me- spending a lot of time cuddling with our Schnoodle. Hope you don't have to change your screen name!
Cali, Hmm...I'm not ready to compare India and Kenya. Sort of like Sophie's choice. But I will say that when it comes to India, vibrant and colorful is understatement. The wow factor is just beyond belief, on many levels.
fun4all4, Congrats to your new college student, and to you on your new lifestyle and your many trips. Crazy that we came up with such similar itineraries. The adjustment has not been so easy for me- spending a lot of time cuddling with our Schnoodle. Hope you don't have to change your screen name!
Cali, Hmm...I'm not ready to compare India and Kenya. Sort of like Sophie's choice. But I will say that when it comes to India, vibrant and colorful is understatement. The wow factor is just beyond belief, on many levels.
Oct 4th, 2012, 09:40 PM
#28
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TRIP PLANNER:
When it comes to travel I’m a DIY control freak, but for this trip we worked with Louise Nicholson (www.louisesindia.com), a British art historian who wrote the National Geographic guidebook to India, leads cultural tours (often for museum groups), plans cool luxury and mid-range independent journeys and runs a Delhi NGO for street kids. Many rave reviews from India-addict friends…and I admit that it was a great relief to research the big picture stuff, then leave the details to someone with extraordinary taste, connections and an amazing team of helpers.
LOGISTICS:
The perfect 11-day “un-Golden Triangle” itinerary – an urban/rural mash-up with smart/funny/non-drony guides, expert drivers, a road trip, a train trip, plenty of flexibility, and several downtime days on our own. Loved our eclectic mix of accommodations – a heritage palace, an Oberoi, two boutique hotels, a guest house and a haveli…this variety helped keep costs down.
Lots of VIP experiences, but nothing over the top – People kept showing up to escort us through airports during layovers, get us to the front of lines and even fill out our departure forms for us.
While at the Oberoi we got a call about a brand new super highway from Agra-Delhi. The rep suggested that we forego taking the train as planned (would have been our second train trip) and go by car at our leisure instead. Someone promptly came to collect our train tickets for a refund and we were not charged for the last-minute upgraded transportation.
Louise also provided insider shopping advice, which regretfully I didn’t always follow – I fear that a few of our purchases are available at Pier 1 for the same price we paid.
PACKING:
Not nearly as stressful as our safari. I did have a mini-meltdown about shoes because Mr. Crosscheck enforced his carry-on policy, and also became somewhat anxious when I read Louise’s travel tips, which insinuated that my all-black wardrobe would not quite cut it. Obediently packed some bright items from the bottom of my drawer, but I did spot clueless Europeans who looked just fine in dark urban colors.
We each took about three daytime and three evening outfits – which meant a) hotel laundry bliss and b) we looked the same in all of our photos. (I partially remedied this several days into the trip by purchasing some new gauzy scarves.)
Forgot to pack suitcase locks for the train trip – found these at the vegetable market in Udaipur, but never needed them because we kept our luggage with us on the train.
Important: Take an extra pair of sunglasses in case your favorite Ray Bans fall out of your rickshaw while you’re photographing an oxcart in the middle of an Old Delhi traffic jam. (Still recovering from the shock of this trauma.)
When it comes to travel I’m a DIY control freak, but for this trip we worked with Louise Nicholson (www.louisesindia.com), a British art historian who wrote the National Geographic guidebook to India, leads cultural tours (often for museum groups), plans cool luxury and mid-range independent journeys and runs a Delhi NGO for street kids. Many rave reviews from India-addict friends…and I admit that it was a great relief to research the big picture stuff, then leave the details to someone with extraordinary taste, connections and an amazing team of helpers.
LOGISTICS:
The perfect 11-day “un-Golden Triangle” itinerary – an urban/rural mash-up with smart/funny/non-drony guides, expert drivers, a road trip, a train trip, plenty of flexibility, and several downtime days on our own. Loved our eclectic mix of accommodations – a heritage palace, an Oberoi, two boutique hotels, a guest house and a haveli…this variety helped keep costs down.
Lots of VIP experiences, but nothing over the top – People kept showing up to escort us through airports during layovers, get us to the front of lines and even fill out our departure forms for us.
While at the Oberoi we got a call about a brand new super highway from Agra-Delhi. The rep suggested that we forego taking the train as planned (would have been our second train trip) and go by car at our leisure instead. Someone promptly came to collect our train tickets for a refund and we were not charged for the last-minute upgraded transportation.
Louise also provided insider shopping advice, which regretfully I didn’t always follow – I fear that a few of our purchases are available at Pier 1 for the same price we paid.
PACKING:
Not nearly as stressful as our safari. I did have a mini-meltdown about shoes because Mr. Crosscheck enforced his carry-on policy, and also became somewhat anxious when I read Louise’s travel tips, which insinuated that my all-black wardrobe would not quite cut it. Obediently packed some bright items from the bottom of my drawer, but I did spot clueless Europeans who looked just fine in dark urban colors.
We each took about three daytime and three evening outfits – which meant a) hotel laundry bliss and b) we looked the same in all of our photos. (I partially remedied this several days into the trip by purchasing some new gauzy scarves.)
Forgot to pack suitcase locks for the train trip – found these at the vegetable market in Udaipur, but never needed them because we kept our luggage with us on the train.
Important: Take an extra pair of sunglasses in case your favorite Ray Bans fall out of your rickshaw while you’re photographing an oxcart in the middle of an Old Delhi traffic jam. (Still recovering from the shock of this trauma.)
Oct 4th, 2012, 10:00 PM
#29
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DRESS CODE:
I’m fairly certain we were the only Americans in India in September (except for some Home Shopping Network stars – more about them later). The other travelers were Europeans (French, Portuguese, Germans, Brits and many from Spain), Aussies, Japanese and ex-pat colonial types who live in Hong Kong.
Nearly all of these cosmopolitan globetrotters dressed if they came from Portland or Seattle (and we fit right in). The daytime look was outdoorsy – quick-dry convertible cargos/capris, or chic yoga wear. For evening, even at the Oberoi, women showed up in ethnic tops and men in linen drawstring pants. Mr. C lived in his Keens and I had two pairs of sandals and water resistant trail runners. Hats are a good idea, as are “temple socks,” although we never seemed to have ours with us when needed….ditto for the flashlights.
AN UNESSESSARY ACCESSORY:
Worried about yucky puddles, we packed disposable Hazmat galoshes that slip over your shoes http://www.northernsafety.com/Produc...at-Boot-Covers, not very fashionable but such a bargain at $4.95 a pair. Ordered them by phone and the sales guy said they’re a favorite of oil spill workers. They never left our suitcase until we gave them as a gift to the manager of our guest house in Delhi.
TIPS FROM MY INDIAN FRIEND
My pal Deepa is basically a California girl, but was born in Bombay (as she calls it), owns a business there and travels back frequently. She was slightly freaked that we were going during the monsoon, and assured us that her relatives could ”get us into any private hospital.”
Her advice:
- Take a fold-up nylon tote, a decent small umbrella (not from the streets of NY) and protein bars that won’t melt
- Beware of pashmina scams
- AC is freezing (Correct! Got a lot of use out of a lightweight cardigan)
- Don’t expect to like Varanasi
All valuable hints, minus the umbrella and Varanasi warnings. We were, however, grateful for the heads up about the protein bars – we took some Think Thin bars from Trader Joe’s, perfect for lunch because hotel breakfasts were so huge. Deepa also reported that she always loses five pounds when she goes to India…We did lose a pound (me) or two (Mr. C), but there wasn’t as much walking as we hoped…and there's an awful lot of ghee in dal.
Next: the actual trip report – thanks for sticking around
I’m fairly certain we were the only Americans in India in September (except for some Home Shopping Network stars – more about them later). The other travelers were Europeans (French, Portuguese, Germans, Brits and many from Spain), Aussies, Japanese and ex-pat colonial types who live in Hong Kong.
Nearly all of these cosmopolitan globetrotters dressed if they came from Portland or Seattle (and we fit right in). The daytime look was outdoorsy – quick-dry convertible cargos/capris, or chic yoga wear. For evening, even at the Oberoi, women showed up in ethnic tops and men in linen drawstring pants. Mr. C lived in his Keens and I had two pairs of sandals and water resistant trail runners. Hats are a good idea, as are “temple socks,” although we never seemed to have ours with us when needed….ditto for the flashlights.
AN UNESSESSARY ACCESSORY:
Worried about yucky puddles, we packed disposable Hazmat galoshes that slip over your shoes http://www.northernsafety.com/Produc...at-Boot-Covers, not very fashionable but such a bargain at $4.95 a pair. Ordered them by phone and the sales guy said they’re a favorite of oil spill workers. They never left our suitcase until we gave them as a gift to the manager of our guest house in Delhi.
TIPS FROM MY INDIAN FRIEND
My pal Deepa is basically a California girl, but was born in Bombay (as she calls it), owns a business there and travels back frequently. She was slightly freaked that we were going during the monsoon, and assured us that her relatives could ”get us into any private hospital.”
Her advice:
- Take a fold-up nylon tote, a decent small umbrella (not from the streets of NY) and protein bars that won’t melt
- Beware of pashmina scams
- AC is freezing (Correct! Got a lot of use out of a lightweight cardigan)
- Don’t expect to like Varanasi
All valuable hints, minus the umbrella and Varanasi warnings. We were, however, grateful for the heads up about the protein bars – we took some Think Thin bars from Trader Joe’s, perfect for lunch because hotel breakfasts were so huge. Deepa also reported that she always loses five pounds when she goes to India…We did lose a pound (me) or two (Mr. C), but there wasn’t as much walking as we hoped…and there's an awful lot of ghee in dal.
Next: the actual trip report – thanks for sticking around
Oct 4th, 2012, 10:04 PM
#30
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Loving this! Congrats on your new life and having such a great trip, just the two of you. India is definitely on the wishlist, but first will be an African Safari - am definitely going to checkout your Kenya report! Looking forward to the next installment!
Oct 5th, 2012, 02:35 AM
#31
Wonderful! I'm loving this as well!
By the way, would you mind sharing Louise's packing tips? I'm beginning to think about shoes & clothing - we're going in January for 3 weeks. What does one do about the washing/cleaning?
By the way, would you mind sharing Louise's packing tips? I'm beginning to think about shoes & clothing - we're going in January for 3 weeks. What does one do about the washing/cleaning?
Oct 5th, 2012, 06:53 AM
#32
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Love the advice about ditching the dark colors as that's what I usually travel with also, though in India, I ended up purchasing very thin cotton skirts/dresses to beat the heat. Sounds like you had a wonderful assortment of accommodations too.
Oct 5th, 2012, 07:18 AM
#33
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don't overthink the packing/clothes as crosscheck perhaps did. take what you normally take on a trip to a usually warm destination. comfortable shoes are the most important thing and for ladies no low cut or revealing clothing
we found snacks readily available in india.
we found snacks readily available in india.
Oct 5th, 2012, 09:50 AM
#36
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jgg, Hi - When are you in LA? Let's have a gtg! I'll bore you with my Africa photos.
progol, Louise gave the standard sage advice - put everything on the bed, then edit out half. She also said to bring a hat and to avoid all black or all white. Save lots of room for purchases - you can get anything there. And you probably need a jacket or fleece for the winter months.
Laundry - We rinsed a things out and used hotel laundry twice - service was phenomena...and very cheap. Clothes arrived back in gorgeous packaging - At Devi Garh we thought someone had sent us a present! I had a Tide-stick-resistant curry stain on my favorite travel pants in Varanasi, plus lots of caked mud, etc. Results were miraculous...hope they didn't wash them in the Ganges.
miles, Yes, most travelers were wearing locally-purchased items.
rhk, Overthinking is my specialty! But carry-on parameters are somewhat of a legitimate excuse. Check out earth tone issues in my safari report.
thurs, Loved all the lentil snacks as well, including the no-so-healthy spicy deep fried ones from the Udaipur vegetable market.
progol, Louise gave the standard sage advice - put everything on the bed, then edit out half. She also said to bring a hat and to avoid all black or all white. Save lots of room for purchases - you can get anything there. And you probably need a jacket or fleece for the winter months.
Laundry - We rinsed a things out and used hotel laundry twice - service was phenomena...and very cheap. Clothes arrived back in gorgeous packaging - At Devi Garh we thought someone had sent us a present! I had a Tide-stick-resistant curry stain on my favorite travel pants in Varanasi, plus lots of caked mud, etc. Results were miraculous...hope they didn't wash them in the Ganges.
miles, Yes, most travelers were wearing locally-purchased items.
rhk, Overthinking is my specialty! But carry-on parameters are somewhat of a legitimate excuse. Check out earth tone issues in my safari report.
thurs, Loved all the lentil snacks as well, including the no-so-healthy spicy deep fried ones from the Udaipur vegetable market.
Oct 5th, 2012, 02:25 PM
#37
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Hi Crosscheck
Really enjoying your report! We were two other Americans in India in September, but we didn't run into any others.
I had to chuckle at your packing/wardrobe comments. I wore Patagonia skirts and capris paired with LuluLemon tops....the same in every pic.
Looking forward to hearing about your time in Udaipur. After our golden triangle (aka India 101) we're already talking about Udaipur for our next India trip.
Really enjoying your report! We were two other Americans in India in September, but we didn't run into any others.
I had to chuckle at your packing/wardrobe comments. I wore Patagonia skirts and capris paired with LuluLemon tops....the same in every pic.
Looking forward to hearing about your time in Udaipur. After our golden triangle (aka India 101) we're already talking about Udaipur for our next India trip.
Oct 5th, 2012, 03:35 PM
#39
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Hey, CC. Can i join the gtg next time in LA? (I live in Bay Area). I'll show you mine if you show me yours....pix of Kenya, that is!!!
Enjoying your report. Darn, you are testing my resolve to NOT spend 'til the Africa trip is paid off. Ahhhh, Incredible India!!
Enjoying your report. Darn, you are testing my resolve to NOT spend 'til the Africa trip is paid off. Ahhhh, Incredible India!!
Oct 5th, 2012, 04:46 PM
#40
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Nikki, I think we were posting at the same time. Just looked back at Louise's tips. She includes info for people going on her tribal and temple tours (which look very tempting).
Her other suggestions, which you probably know about:
- hand sanitizer and packets of wipes
- copies of passport and extra photos
- long underwear top for winter
- sunscreen, repellant, bite cream (Had to take travel sizes of all of these..BA flight attendant saw me organizing my lotions and gels before we landed at Heathrow, said security there is very strict - one ziplock per passenger. She brought me some slightly larger bags so I could fit more in, but it turned out that nobody cared.
I would add:
- credit card that doesn't charge intl. fee
- $1 dollar bills, although our guides gave us a lot of small change for tips
- unlocked phone
- business cards - we both ran out. Everyone wants a card.
- souvenirs: I bought some Hollywood key chains at LAX, drivers and handlers loved these.
cruisinred - Good choice - Udaipur is a very user friendly city, but don't miss and rural surroundings, which are spectacular.
Kathie - thanks, Can't wait to hear your take on things. A lot of moving around, but somehow relaxing. Could be the other worldliness...you WANT to see more. We never felt rushed or as if we were doing too much.
Cali - By all means, join us!! jgg and I had our own exclusive gtg lunch, with Mr. jgg joining us for coffee.
Her other suggestions, which you probably know about:
- hand sanitizer and packets of wipes
- copies of passport and extra photos
- long underwear top for winter
- sunscreen, repellant, bite cream (Had to take travel sizes of all of these..BA flight attendant saw me organizing my lotions and gels before we landed at Heathrow, said security there is very strict - one ziplock per passenger. She brought me some slightly larger bags so I could fit more in, but it turned out that nobody cared.
I would add:
- credit card that doesn't charge intl. fee
- $1 dollar bills, although our guides gave us a lot of small change for tips
- unlocked phone
- business cards - we both ran out. Everyone wants a card.
- souvenirs: I bought some Hollywood key chains at LAX, drivers and handlers loved these.
cruisinred - Good choice - Udaipur is a very user friendly city, but don't miss and rural surroundings, which are spectacular.
Kathie - thanks, Can't wait to hear your take on things. A lot of moving around, but somehow relaxing. Could be the other worldliness...you WANT to see more. We never felt rushed or as if we were doing too much.
Cali - By all means, join us!! jgg and I had our own exclusive gtg lunch, with Mr. jgg joining us for coffee.
