Thai/Cambodia Trip Report
Feb 20th, 2007, 10:16 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thai/Cambodia Trip Report
First of all, thanks to all of you Fodorites who made this trip really great. From advice on hotels and restaurants and what to do generally, to references for guides and tailors, to discussions of local foods, we learned so much that helped shape and fine-tune our trip. Our itinerary was:
Feb 2-6 BKK
Feb 6-9 Siem Reap
Feb 9-11 Chiang Mai
Feb 11-14 Golden Triangle
Feb 14-16 BKK
I'll start w/BKK. We stayed at Royal Orchid Sheraton in the Towers rooms on the 28th floor for $135/night for a king room, using 1,000 points under their SPG-50 plan. That gave us free breakfast and happy hour in the executive lounge, daily refilled fruit basket, fresh orchids, 6 pieces of laundry per person per day gratis, and free local calls. What a bargain - first time we've ever returned home with a suitcase of mostly clean clothes, which makes the return surprisingly less depressing! We extended our room to a day room on the 16th, as our plane wasn't departing until almost midnight that night, which allowed an 8 pm checkout. That gave us another day of free laundry, too!
On the planes to BKK (ANA from DC to Narita, and then Narita to BKK), we took half an Ambien to make us sleep, and then when we arrived at our hotel in BKK at 11:00 pm took another half pill. Worked like a charm and suffered almost no jet lag. Have tried melatonin but it doesn't work for us. Really loved the new airport - it looks like a space station. Bags came out very quickly. Can't say enough nice things about this place. Had prearranged the AOT limo for 850 bht to the hotel; it's more expensive but at that late hour in a new city, it was well worth the price.
Our first morning was tailors at OP Place. At the suggestion of ROS's concierge, we walked (is it true Oriental Hotel's boat doesn't start running til 11 am?). It was surprisingly cool so the walk was bearable, though loud on New Road. I worked with the woman at T Silk to design a jacket from the Japanese embroidered satin I had brought, and a pair of navy Thai silk pants with a pleat on the outside of each leg using the Japanese fabric. I checked out Cotton House for a suit for me but didn't like their fabrics and thought their prices were a little high. David went to Tramps and ordered 6 pairs of wool pants. Since they had no cotton, we ended up upstairs at Trend with Mr. Lek, where he ordered 3 pairs of cotton pants and 2 French cuff shirts. We were surprised at the high cost of everything, esp. considering I had supplied the fabric for my pieces. However, we figured that if the quality was really top notch, the prices weren't so out of line. From there we took a taxi to Jim Thompson House (didn't feel like figuring out Skytrain quite yet) and learned why everyone uses Skytrain - traffic was horrible. We started by having lunch there - very slow but good food. Realized we didn't have time for the tour, so skipped it for now.
From there we taxied to Siam Paragon to check out glasses. Didn't find a pair I liked in the 6 or so optical stores there, but what a mall! From there, we took a taxi to Face Spa for our massage appointments. Here was our first real ripoff by a taxi. The line to get a taxi at Siam Paragon was quite long and our appointment was in about 20 minutes. The driver had to call someone to find out where Face is and then quoted us 300 bht for the ride. We argued that was too high, but had to settle for it as time was so tight.
Had a marvelous experience at Face. The fact that we were 15 minutes late didn't phase them and unlike in the US, they didn't cut back on the massage time. They begin by a 10 minute foot massage and then you enter a small hut with a bathroom/shower at the far end and mats on the floor of the main room. The 90 minute massages were blissful, with strong pressure and unique moves. (Not Thai massage, as you have probably guessed.) Afterwards, we showered and went to the building next door for dinner at Lanna Thai. Prices here are high but the food is great. We tried their wine by the glass but it was awful, so we ordered beer. The fried morning glories were a little chewy but delicious - had been so looking forward to trying this dish since reading about it here. Food and service were very good here.
Next day we were up early so we hit the gym. Really good equipment though a little old; this was the best gym of the trip. Today was spent with our guide, one of Tong's associates, Charlie. He is a very friendly, animated guy who is very capable. Because his car is older, his price is cheaper by the day than Tong's. But he offered the same great service and cold water, face wipes, etc. as I've read Tong does. We started at the Golden Buddha, followed by Grand Palace, including the Emerald Buddha. What an over-the-top place! Charlie showed us pictures he keeps in his car of the royal families through the years, which helped in understanding the history he explained in the various buildings of the grounds.
Next it was off to a long-tail boat for a khlong tour, stopping at the Temple of the Dawn. Then we crossed the river in a water taxi and Charlie took us to Coconut Palm for lunch. Service was slow there but the food was great! From there we went to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. We had mentioned to Charlie that I hadn't liked the suit fabrics at Cotton House so he offered to help by taking us to Chinatown to buy fabric and then directly to the factories where all the tailoring is done. So we did that - what an experience pushing through the crowd in an inside market in Chinatown to find fabric. Picked a lovely wool and then drove to another area to the factories. First stop was the jacket guy. The place was a real slum, but I could see their work hanging in the workshop and it looked very good. I gave them the picture of what I wanted and they measured me. Charlie kept assuring us that although the place is dirty, he has taken several customers there who have been very happy with their suits. Next stop the pants guys, but since I was wearing a skirt, they couldn't measure me. Next was the skirt woman, who measured me and we designed what the skirt would look like. So we'll return tomorrow for first fitting on the jacket and skirt and measurement on the pants.
At this point, we were done in, so Charlie took us back to the hotel, where we went to happy hour. To our delight, the red wine there is pretty decent, so we each took a glass back to the room at last call. Off to dinner at Gallery Cafe around the corner. Really loved this place - cute gift shop in front, good prices, and great food. Service was very attentive and pleasant here also.
Next day was the Super Bowl, so we woke up at 6:30 and one of us watched the game in the room while the other went to the gym. After the game, we called SJ International, reknowned jeweler of Kathie, to send a car. After much looking, we selected a few pieces and arranged to have them delivered to our hotel when we returned to BKK at the end of the trip. Their driver took us to Jim Thompson House where we had lunch and this time took the tour. Looking back, I remember being surprised at leaving our shoes outside the main building, which of course later became commonplace.
We still didn't have the fortitude to figure out Skytrain, so taxied back to the hotel to meet Charlie. Charlie picked us up and drove us back to the tailor factories. We did first fitting on my pants, first fitting on the jacket which was a little tight, selected button style etc., and did first fitting on the skirt, which I didn't like. Decided to change the design and add pleats. Everything set up to b ready to try again when we get back to town on Feb. 15.
Charlie dropped us off at OP Place for our first fittings there. Made modifications to my pants and jacket, having them bring back the pictures I had given them to work from. David's pants at Tramps were perfect, but changes needed at Trend. Made dates for fittings when return Feb. 15.
Back to happy hour and off to Harmonique for dinner that night. Cheapest dinner so far, and again good food, but atmosphere here is iffy. The first few rooms we walked through were lovely, but we were seated in a back room with tile walls that looked like an old kitchen.
To bed early for our early departure the next day for Siem Reap. Ordered room service breakfast for 4:30 - it arrived on a rolling table like in the movies - complete with a built-in heater to keep food warm. Very impressed with this hotel! Off to airport for our international departure to Siem Reap. They charged us 500 bht each - we bought our tickets so long ago this tax wasn't included in the price.
Next post - Siem Reap. Claire
Feb 2-6 BKK
Feb 6-9 Siem Reap
Feb 9-11 Chiang Mai
Feb 11-14 Golden Triangle
Feb 14-16 BKK
I'll start w/BKK. We stayed at Royal Orchid Sheraton in the Towers rooms on the 28th floor for $135/night for a king room, using 1,000 points under their SPG-50 plan. That gave us free breakfast and happy hour in the executive lounge, daily refilled fruit basket, fresh orchids, 6 pieces of laundry per person per day gratis, and free local calls. What a bargain - first time we've ever returned home with a suitcase of mostly clean clothes, which makes the return surprisingly less depressing! We extended our room to a day room on the 16th, as our plane wasn't departing until almost midnight that night, which allowed an 8 pm checkout. That gave us another day of free laundry, too!
On the planes to BKK (ANA from DC to Narita, and then Narita to BKK), we took half an Ambien to make us sleep, and then when we arrived at our hotel in BKK at 11:00 pm took another half pill. Worked like a charm and suffered almost no jet lag. Have tried melatonin but it doesn't work for us. Really loved the new airport - it looks like a space station. Bags came out very quickly. Can't say enough nice things about this place. Had prearranged the AOT limo for 850 bht to the hotel; it's more expensive but at that late hour in a new city, it was well worth the price.
Our first morning was tailors at OP Place. At the suggestion of ROS's concierge, we walked (is it true Oriental Hotel's boat doesn't start running til 11 am?). It was surprisingly cool so the walk was bearable, though loud on New Road. I worked with the woman at T Silk to design a jacket from the Japanese embroidered satin I had brought, and a pair of navy Thai silk pants with a pleat on the outside of each leg using the Japanese fabric. I checked out Cotton House for a suit for me but didn't like their fabrics and thought their prices were a little high. David went to Tramps and ordered 6 pairs of wool pants. Since they had no cotton, we ended up upstairs at Trend with Mr. Lek, where he ordered 3 pairs of cotton pants and 2 French cuff shirts. We were surprised at the high cost of everything, esp. considering I had supplied the fabric for my pieces. However, we figured that if the quality was really top notch, the prices weren't so out of line. From there we took a taxi to Jim Thompson House (didn't feel like figuring out Skytrain quite yet) and learned why everyone uses Skytrain - traffic was horrible. We started by having lunch there - very slow but good food. Realized we didn't have time for the tour, so skipped it for now.
From there we taxied to Siam Paragon to check out glasses. Didn't find a pair I liked in the 6 or so optical stores there, but what a mall! From there, we took a taxi to Face Spa for our massage appointments. Here was our first real ripoff by a taxi. The line to get a taxi at Siam Paragon was quite long and our appointment was in about 20 minutes. The driver had to call someone to find out where Face is and then quoted us 300 bht for the ride. We argued that was too high, but had to settle for it as time was so tight.
Had a marvelous experience at Face. The fact that we were 15 minutes late didn't phase them and unlike in the US, they didn't cut back on the massage time. They begin by a 10 minute foot massage and then you enter a small hut with a bathroom/shower at the far end and mats on the floor of the main room. The 90 minute massages were blissful, with strong pressure and unique moves. (Not Thai massage, as you have probably guessed.) Afterwards, we showered and went to the building next door for dinner at Lanna Thai. Prices here are high but the food is great. We tried their wine by the glass but it was awful, so we ordered beer. The fried morning glories were a little chewy but delicious - had been so looking forward to trying this dish since reading about it here. Food and service were very good here.
Next day we were up early so we hit the gym. Really good equipment though a little old; this was the best gym of the trip. Today was spent with our guide, one of Tong's associates, Charlie. He is a very friendly, animated guy who is very capable. Because his car is older, his price is cheaper by the day than Tong's. But he offered the same great service and cold water, face wipes, etc. as I've read Tong does. We started at the Golden Buddha, followed by Grand Palace, including the Emerald Buddha. What an over-the-top place! Charlie showed us pictures he keeps in his car of the royal families through the years, which helped in understanding the history he explained in the various buildings of the grounds.
Next it was off to a long-tail boat for a khlong tour, stopping at the Temple of the Dawn. Then we crossed the river in a water taxi and Charlie took us to Coconut Palm for lunch. Service was slow there but the food was great! From there we went to the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. We had mentioned to Charlie that I hadn't liked the suit fabrics at Cotton House so he offered to help by taking us to Chinatown to buy fabric and then directly to the factories where all the tailoring is done. So we did that - what an experience pushing through the crowd in an inside market in Chinatown to find fabric. Picked a lovely wool and then drove to another area to the factories. First stop was the jacket guy. The place was a real slum, but I could see their work hanging in the workshop and it looked very good. I gave them the picture of what I wanted and they measured me. Charlie kept assuring us that although the place is dirty, he has taken several customers there who have been very happy with their suits. Next stop the pants guys, but since I was wearing a skirt, they couldn't measure me. Next was the skirt woman, who measured me and we designed what the skirt would look like. So we'll return tomorrow for first fitting on the jacket and skirt and measurement on the pants.
At this point, we were done in, so Charlie took us back to the hotel, where we went to happy hour. To our delight, the red wine there is pretty decent, so we each took a glass back to the room at last call. Off to dinner at Gallery Cafe around the corner. Really loved this place - cute gift shop in front, good prices, and great food. Service was very attentive and pleasant here also.
Next day was the Super Bowl, so we woke up at 6:30 and one of us watched the game in the room while the other went to the gym. After the game, we called SJ International, reknowned jeweler of Kathie, to send a car. After much looking, we selected a few pieces and arranged to have them delivered to our hotel when we returned to BKK at the end of the trip. Their driver took us to Jim Thompson House where we had lunch and this time took the tour. Looking back, I remember being surprised at leaving our shoes outside the main building, which of course later became commonplace.
We still didn't have the fortitude to figure out Skytrain, so taxied back to the hotel to meet Charlie. Charlie picked us up and drove us back to the tailor factories. We did first fitting on my pants, first fitting on the jacket which was a little tight, selected button style etc., and did first fitting on the skirt, which I didn't like. Decided to change the design and add pleats. Everything set up to b ready to try again when we get back to town on Feb. 15.
Charlie dropped us off at OP Place for our first fittings there. Made modifications to my pants and jacket, having them bring back the pictures I had given them to work from. David's pants at Tramps were perfect, but changes needed at Trend. Made dates for fittings when return Feb. 15.
Back to happy hour and off to Harmonique for dinner that night. Cheapest dinner so far, and again good food, but atmosphere here is iffy. The first few rooms we walked through were lovely, but we were seated in a back room with tile walls that looked like an old kitchen.
To bed early for our early departure the next day for Siem Reap. Ordered room service breakfast for 4:30 - it arrived on a rolling table like in the movies - complete with a built-in heater to keep food warm. Very impressed with this hotel! Off to airport for our international departure to Siem Reap. They charged us 500 bht each - we bought our tickets so long ago this tax wasn't included in the price.
Next post - Siem Reap. Claire
Feb 20th, 2007, 01:10 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Kathie. All of your suggestions were home runs!
Continuing the saga, we arrived at Siem Reap early and were met at the airport by Dara, Poonheary's sister. We had already done the e-Visa thing so it was a breeze getting through immigration. This is high season, so there was a very long line for the visa applications that we were able to avoid. Likewise, we had our photos w/us for the temple passes, so Dara popped into the entry building and got us our temple passes quickly. So off we went to Angkor Wat first, entering by the deserted East entrance. We were struck by the vastness of the place, the very long passageways of the exterior, and the amazing carvings. Dara told us the stories of the bas reliefs of each of the galleries we walked through. He is a terrific guide, by the way, not only as an accomplished photographer who shows you the best places to shoot from, but in his slow, even, laid back manner. He maneuvered us around the large tour groups to minimize the discomfort to trying to listen to him above the noise from the other tourists.
The third level is truly amazing. At the top of the third level is a bamboo ladder used by gardners to pull weeds that grow on the pinnable above so they don't destroy the structure. The ladder consists of a single vertical pole with cross sticks for your feet - very cirque de soleil - amazing! We left that Wat through the west entrance. Good strategy - you don't get attacked by the vendors at all going this direction as there are none at the east entrance and the ones on the west entrance are concentrating on the new arrivals!
At this point, we left Angkor to check into the hotel and rest for lunch. Hotel de la Paix is amazing. Because of a Fodors poster, we joined the Small Luxury Hotels of the World association (no charge and easy to do online), of which HDLP is a member. Because of our membership, we were upgraded to a suite. Gorgeous new hotel, and the suite was marvelous. First time in our travel lives that we have had too much space - kept misplacing things! The TV is hidden under a silk drape; there was a large soaking tub in the center of the room, and the bathroom facilities very modern. In the room is an IPOD prerecorded with different types of music playing when you enter the room, and the Do Not Disturb sign is a silk bag of potpourri! Forced ourselves to leave the room to go eat lunch - very good food and reasonably priced. At 3:00 Dara picked us back up and we were off to Bayon and Angkor Thom. The approach to Angkor Thom is over one of 4 amazing bridges, each displaying what's left of the Churning of the Sea of Milk sculptures along both sides of the bridges. Many of Bayon's structures bear bas reliefs of huge faces - quite unusual and very different from the rest of what we saw of Angkor. Bought some Tshirts for grandkids and friends children at one of the vendors. Still no hoards of vendors pushing to sell us anything though.
That night we ate at Viroth's since Abacus was booked. What a great choice - wonderful food and very reasonable, and such a beautiful garden setting. Surprisingly, the temp had dropped enough to make sitting outside bearable.
Next day was off to Bantay Srei (sp?), which was an interesting drive about 30 minutes outside town. Houses were surprisingly nice for the most part, built high on stilts, with clean grounds. We were expecting to see poverty here, but not in this area. The road is fairly new and was in good shape. Dara told us about his youth, growing up during the Khmer Rouge regime. How lucky we are in the US!
Here we found our first land mine victim orchestra. Such lovely music they play - really adds to the charm of the ruins. Bantay is decorated with female forms, but wasn't a temple area for females or female priests, Dara told us.
On the way back we stopped at a roadside stand where they make palm sugar and saw the process of boiling and stirring the liquid. Next it was on to Memor East, a temple surrounded by 8 lifesize elephants, 4 each at the corners of two sets of walls surrounding it, and numerous tigers. All of these animals were carved from single slabs of stone.
Back to the hotel for lunch break, slightly abbreviated because we were ending early that day for late afternoon massages at HDLP's spa. We had mentioned to Dara that we wanted to eat at Blue Pumpkin, but he said people complain about their food and instead offered to take us to a place that was locally owned. It turned out to be a large restaurant that obviously caters to bus groups, but only private guides and couples were there at that point. Must say, the lunch there was terrific. We had Amok fish at Dara's suggestion and it was great. Very inexpensive also.
After brief siesta at the hotel, Dara picked us up at 2:00 and we went to Ta Prohm. This is the one in the pictures and movies. Amazing to see the damage the trees have done. Eventually they will remove the trees and this one will be restored like the others, but for now this one is truly the Indiana Jones temple! And Dara showed us the spot where Angelina Jolie was filmed - I must say, she has almost attained goddess status in Cambodia!
Then it was back to the hotel spa for our massages. Great massages in a lovely setting, followed by their outdoor shower. Too hot for outdoor massages though!
More later....
Continuing the saga, we arrived at Siem Reap early and were met at the airport by Dara, Poonheary's sister. We had already done the e-Visa thing so it was a breeze getting through immigration. This is high season, so there was a very long line for the visa applications that we were able to avoid. Likewise, we had our photos w/us for the temple passes, so Dara popped into the entry building and got us our temple passes quickly. So off we went to Angkor Wat first, entering by the deserted East entrance. We were struck by the vastness of the place, the very long passageways of the exterior, and the amazing carvings. Dara told us the stories of the bas reliefs of each of the galleries we walked through. He is a terrific guide, by the way, not only as an accomplished photographer who shows you the best places to shoot from, but in his slow, even, laid back manner. He maneuvered us around the large tour groups to minimize the discomfort to trying to listen to him above the noise from the other tourists.
The third level is truly amazing. At the top of the third level is a bamboo ladder used by gardners to pull weeds that grow on the pinnable above so they don't destroy the structure. The ladder consists of a single vertical pole with cross sticks for your feet - very cirque de soleil - amazing! We left that Wat through the west entrance. Good strategy - you don't get attacked by the vendors at all going this direction as there are none at the east entrance and the ones on the west entrance are concentrating on the new arrivals!
At this point, we left Angkor to check into the hotel and rest for lunch. Hotel de la Paix is amazing. Because of a Fodors poster, we joined the Small Luxury Hotels of the World association (no charge and easy to do online), of which HDLP is a member. Because of our membership, we were upgraded to a suite. Gorgeous new hotel, and the suite was marvelous. First time in our travel lives that we have had too much space - kept misplacing things! The TV is hidden under a silk drape; there was a large soaking tub in the center of the room, and the bathroom facilities very modern. In the room is an IPOD prerecorded with different types of music playing when you enter the room, and the Do Not Disturb sign is a silk bag of potpourri! Forced ourselves to leave the room to go eat lunch - very good food and reasonably priced. At 3:00 Dara picked us back up and we were off to Bayon and Angkor Thom. The approach to Angkor Thom is over one of 4 amazing bridges, each displaying what's left of the Churning of the Sea of Milk sculptures along both sides of the bridges. Many of Bayon's structures bear bas reliefs of huge faces - quite unusual and very different from the rest of what we saw of Angkor. Bought some Tshirts for grandkids and friends children at one of the vendors. Still no hoards of vendors pushing to sell us anything though.
That night we ate at Viroth's since Abacus was booked. What a great choice - wonderful food and very reasonable, and such a beautiful garden setting. Surprisingly, the temp had dropped enough to make sitting outside bearable.
Next day was off to Bantay Srei (sp?), which was an interesting drive about 30 minutes outside town. Houses were surprisingly nice for the most part, built high on stilts, with clean grounds. We were expecting to see poverty here, but not in this area. The road is fairly new and was in good shape. Dara told us about his youth, growing up during the Khmer Rouge regime. How lucky we are in the US!
Here we found our first land mine victim orchestra. Such lovely music they play - really adds to the charm of the ruins. Bantay is decorated with female forms, but wasn't a temple area for females or female priests, Dara told us.
On the way back we stopped at a roadside stand where they make palm sugar and saw the process of boiling and stirring the liquid. Next it was on to Memor East, a temple surrounded by 8 lifesize elephants, 4 each at the corners of two sets of walls surrounding it, and numerous tigers. All of these animals were carved from single slabs of stone.
Back to the hotel for lunch break, slightly abbreviated because we were ending early that day for late afternoon massages at HDLP's spa. We had mentioned to Dara that we wanted to eat at Blue Pumpkin, but he said people complain about their food and instead offered to take us to a place that was locally owned. It turned out to be a large restaurant that obviously caters to bus groups, but only private guides and couples were there at that point. Must say, the lunch there was terrific. We had Amok fish at Dara's suggestion and it was great. Very inexpensive also.
After brief siesta at the hotel, Dara picked us up at 2:00 and we went to Ta Prohm. This is the one in the pictures and movies. Amazing to see the damage the trees have done. Eventually they will remove the trees and this one will be restored like the others, but for now this one is truly the Indiana Jones temple! And Dara showed us the spot where Angelina Jolie was filmed - I must say, she has almost attained goddess status in Cambodia!
Then it was back to the hotel spa for our massages. Great massages in a lovely setting, followed by their outdoor shower. Too hot for outdoor massages though!
More later....
Feb 20th, 2007, 06:25 PM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
great information....i look forward to more...
sorry the surroungings at harmonique were not to your liking....i agree and try to warn people, but the food and its costs outweigh the ambiance or lack of it...
sorry the surroungings at harmonique were not to your liking....i agree and try to warn people, but the food and its costs outweigh the ambiance or lack of it...
Feb 21st, 2007, 01:27 AM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CD-super report. Glad you liked the Gallery Cafe. We always stay at the ROS and eat at the GC 2 or 3 times each trip. I always use the ROS gym and then take a sauna. It's a nice way to start each day.
Don't know if you ever got to Blue Pumpkin, but we enjoyed it a lot. At the HDLP could you smell the constantly burning garbage fires?
Don't know if you ever got to Blue Pumpkin, but we enjoyed it a lot. At the HDLP could you smell the constantly burning garbage fires?
Feb 21st, 2007, 06:58 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RMK - Funny, I think it was a guidebook that described Harmonique as romantic, but certainly the food and price made it a great choice. GPanda, will get to Blue Pumpkin in this section. No, didn't smell anything bad at HDLP. They're building a large, allegedly upscale shopping center across from HDLP which is almost finished - quite nice looking. The neighborhood around it wasn't so bad and we certainly felt safe.
To continue the saga, that night following massages was our 7-course Khmer dinner at HDLP's restaurant, Meric. This was included at no charge in our package by booking thru Small Lux Hotels of the World. We had booked a week or 2 in advance for the swings, but as it turned out, we are earlier eaters than most, so wouldn't have needed the reservation at 7:00. The dinner was terrific, as was the service, and even the wine (okay, California - how can you go wrong?). We found the swings fairly comfortable and surprisingly sturdy feeling since the "bed" is suspended on 4 heavy chains.
Next morning, as we were getting templed-out, we opted for the floating village tour. Very interesting, but shockingly poor; how these people can live in such filthy conditions is beyond us. Even Dara said that neither he nor his family would be able to live like that without getting very sick. The worst part is right where the boats depart. This area changes as the river expands and contracts depending on rainfall etc. Once you hit the large open lake, it does seem cleaner somehow, but is amazing that these people live on their boat/huts, never setting foot on dry land. Great upper body workout in all the rowing of their various boats, however. On the way back, at our request, we stopped at Artisans d'Angkor to see the trade school and bought a lovely standing Buddha sculpted from wood. We were happy to support this organization that teaches an art trade to impoverished, local young adults.
We then returned to the hotel for siesta. We took a tuk-tuk to Blue Pumpkin w/out telling Dara because we wanted to try it. We were surprised it was really more of a sandwich and pastry joint. I must say, service was terrible and the table/sidewalk were dirty. Ordered a tuna sandwich and soup which were good. People beside us had an American style burger and fries; we noticed the plate returned almost uneaten later. Nice gift shop next door though.
After siesta, we were off with Dara to to check out the hot air balloon wait and buy more gifts at a vendor we had been to the prior day. Returned to the hot air balloon place after they called Dara with an opening. It was windy that afternoon, so they were only taking groups of 8 instead of the usual 20, and only ascending 140 meters instead of the usual 180. Mainly we wanted to try this because I've always wanted to ride a hot air balloon but with my acute fear of heights, didn't want to blow a lot of money to find I couldn't handle it. So up we went for a glorious float in the air. What a fantastic experience - silent, smooth, and very calming. No fear at all and the most amazing feeling of slowly gliding upwards. (This balloon simply ascends, stright up, and descends on a cable for a 10 minute total ride, providing fanastic views of Angkor Wat directly ahead and another ruin off to the left.)
From there it was off to our last temple, Prea Kahn. This was subtly different from the others as well, with very angular lines and long passageways. Leaving this temple was the first place at Angkor where we were accosted by children and a few women aggressively trying to sell things. Still never felt uneasy - have encountered gypsy children in Paris on the Seine riverbank who did make me feel uneasy and tried to steal my purse - nothing like that here.
From here it was off to see the sunset along a rice paddy that is very popular with private guides and locals alike. Very lovely way to end our visit to Siem Reap.
Next morning, Dara and his driver, whose name escapes me, picked us up and took us to the airport for $5 - compare to the hotel car at $25! These 2 were a great team and really helped make our SR visit outstanding.
From here it was back to BKK and then connecting to Chiang Mai. Nice airport and great taxi setup at CM airport - you tell them inside where you're going and they give you a written paper with the price and info for the driver.
We drove straight to Baan Orapin where Opus met us and showed us to our suite, one of the new buildings in back. Lovely room with 4-poster bed and mosquite netting, which fortunately we didn't need to use. Very modern, ultra cool bathroom. This was only $60 per night.
We walked across the pedestrian bridge, which is now under construction and extremely dangerous to walk on, amidst the construction workers, no railings but tarps on either side, and nails, metal rods, etc. lying all over. Down the other side, we picked up a tuk tuk at the flower market and headed to Wat Chedi (Name?? 1 of the 2 3-star ones in the old town.) Poked around the area, then took a tuk tuk to the main road where silver stores are only to find them closed as it was 6:00. We were pretty low on energy and hungry at this point, so took a tuk tuk to Gallery Cafe. I know this place has gotten bad reviews here, but Opus recommended it and said Hilary Clinton ate there. So we figured we'd try it and see. Glad we did - lovely purple theme from the orchids to the cloth napkins, with very good service and very good food. Prices a little high, but it's that kind of place. Walked back to BA, stopping at a tea house to buy some Chinese chrysanthemum (sp?) tea - what a lovely little oasis this tea house is on the busy road that parallels the river.
Next morning we arranged with Opus for a taxi to drive us the following day to Anantara in the Golden Triangle. His price was 2,500 bhats, which is the lowest we had found the prior day inquiring at several travel agent stores we had stopped in.
We then were picked up by Poon, sister of Ratt in BKK, whom I had arranged as our guide for the day. (Sgt. Kai was booked already). First stop was Doi Suthep. Things didn't start well here - she told us she'd meet us up at the top after she parked the car. We waited about 20 minutes at the top and then started walking around. In another 15 minutes she appeared as we were sitting at the cafe with a coffee. We thought maybe we had misunderstood her and that we were on our own up here. Not thrilled with the wasted time, but she made up for it by a fun tour of the temple area at the top. She took us to the various stations where you make little offerings based on the day, month, and year of your birth, shake out sticks to pull out your fortune, had a monk bless us with holy water and white strings tied on our wrists, walked around the shrine 3 times behind her, with her explaining all of the religious meanings behind these things. It was an interesting insight into another lifestyle.
On to the Hmong hill tribe village, on the same road as Doi Suthep. Nice "museum" with displays showing daily life of the Hmong. Up a steep hill we walked through their market. Interesting - many of the items for sale were from Tibet and China. Not much locally produced - but I guess if you are going to have a market large enough to attract many people, you need a lot of stuff to sell!
From here, we went on to lunch at a local place. We were the only nonThais there. We had wanted to try kao soy, so Poon took us to her favorite place and insisted on treating. I suspect this is because it was so inexpensive they don't want Westerners to know just how cheap things are for locals. Not a problem; their cost of living is worlds away from ours.
Next was my mission to buy silver for my jewelry biz. To our surprise, while it was open, Silver Bell's store was empty (probably at the Tuscon show?) so we crossed the street to Sherry Silver and I bought some great pieces unlike anything I've seen in the US.
From here we went to Siam Celadon to check out both blue and green celadon, selecting some items of both colors. Then it was back to BA. That night we tuk tuked to the night market and ate dinner at a seafood market Poon had shown us earlier that day. Great food in an open, outdoor setting in the food court area. Not hot at night in CM, so sitting outside was quite comfortable.
Walked around the night market and tuk'd back to BA.
Next section - Golden Triangle! David and Claire ride an elephant...
To continue the saga, that night following massages was our 7-course Khmer dinner at HDLP's restaurant, Meric. This was included at no charge in our package by booking thru Small Lux Hotels of the World. We had booked a week or 2 in advance for the swings, but as it turned out, we are earlier eaters than most, so wouldn't have needed the reservation at 7:00. The dinner was terrific, as was the service, and even the wine (okay, California - how can you go wrong?). We found the swings fairly comfortable and surprisingly sturdy feeling since the "bed" is suspended on 4 heavy chains.
Next morning, as we were getting templed-out, we opted for the floating village tour. Very interesting, but shockingly poor; how these people can live in such filthy conditions is beyond us. Even Dara said that neither he nor his family would be able to live like that without getting very sick. The worst part is right where the boats depart. This area changes as the river expands and contracts depending on rainfall etc. Once you hit the large open lake, it does seem cleaner somehow, but is amazing that these people live on their boat/huts, never setting foot on dry land. Great upper body workout in all the rowing of their various boats, however. On the way back, at our request, we stopped at Artisans d'Angkor to see the trade school and bought a lovely standing Buddha sculpted from wood. We were happy to support this organization that teaches an art trade to impoverished, local young adults.
We then returned to the hotel for siesta. We took a tuk-tuk to Blue Pumpkin w/out telling Dara because we wanted to try it. We were surprised it was really more of a sandwich and pastry joint. I must say, service was terrible and the table/sidewalk were dirty. Ordered a tuna sandwich and soup which were good. People beside us had an American style burger and fries; we noticed the plate returned almost uneaten later. Nice gift shop next door though.
After siesta, we were off with Dara to to check out the hot air balloon wait and buy more gifts at a vendor we had been to the prior day. Returned to the hot air balloon place after they called Dara with an opening. It was windy that afternoon, so they were only taking groups of 8 instead of the usual 20, and only ascending 140 meters instead of the usual 180. Mainly we wanted to try this because I've always wanted to ride a hot air balloon but with my acute fear of heights, didn't want to blow a lot of money to find I couldn't handle it. So up we went for a glorious float in the air. What a fantastic experience - silent, smooth, and very calming. No fear at all and the most amazing feeling of slowly gliding upwards. (This balloon simply ascends, stright up, and descends on a cable for a 10 minute total ride, providing fanastic views of Angkor Wat directly ahead and another ruin off to the left.)
From there it was off to our last temple, Prea Kahn. This was subtly different from the others as well, with very angular lines and long passageways. Leaving this temple was the first place at Angkor where we were accosted by children and a few women aggressively trying to sell things. Still never felt uneasy - have encountered gypsy children in Paris on the Seine riverbank who did make me feel uneasy and tried to steal my purse - nothing like that here.
From here it was off to see the sunset along a rice paddy that is very popular with private guides and locals alike. Very lovely way to end our visit to Siem Reap.
Next morning, Dara and his driver, whose name escapes me, picked us up and took us to the airport for $5 - compare to the hotel car at $25! These 2 were a great team and really helped make our SR visit outstanding.
From here it was back to BKK and then connecting to Chiang Mai. Nice airport and great taxi setup at CM airport - you tell them inside where you're going and they give you a written paper with the price and info for the driver.
We drove straight to Baan Orapin where Opus met us and showed us to our suite, one of the new buildings in back. Lovely room with 4-poster bed and mosquite netting, which fortunately we didn't need to use. Very modern, ultra cool bathroom. This was only $60 per night.
We walked across the pedestrian bridge, which is now under construction and extremely dangerous to walk on, amidst the construction workers, no railings but tarps on either side, and nails, metal rods, etc. lying all over. Down the other side, we picked up a tuk tuk at the flower market and headed to Wat Chedi (Name?? 1 of the 2 3-star ones in the old town.) Poked around the area, then took a tuk tuk to the main road where silver stores are only to find them closed as it was 6:00. We were pretty low on energy and hungry at this point, so took a tuk tuk to Gallery Cafe. I know this place has gotten bad reviews here, but Opus recommended it and said Hilary Clinton ate there. So we figured we'd try it and see. Glad we did - lovely purple theme from the orchids to the cloth napkins, with very good service and very good food. Prices a little high, but it's that kind of place. Walked back to BA, stopping at a tea house to buy some Chinese chrysanthemum (sp?) tea - what a lovely little oasis this tea house is on the busy road that parallels the river.
Next morning we arranged with Opus for a taxi to drive us the following day to Anantara in the Golden Triangle. His price was 2,500 bhats, which is the lowest we had found the prior day inquiring at several travel agent stores we had stopped in.
We then were picked up by Poon, sister of Ratt in BKK, whom I had arranged as our guide for the day. (Sgt. Kai was booked already). First stop was Doi Suthep. Things didn't start well here - she told us she'd meet us up at the top after she parked the car. We waited about 20 minutes at the top and then started walking around. In another 15 minutes she appeared as we were sitting at the cafe with a coffee. We thought maybe we had misunderstood her and that we were on our own up here. Not thrilled with the wasted time, but she made up for it by a fun tour of the temple area at the top. She took us to the various stations where you make little offerings based on the day, month, and year of your birth, shake out sticks to pull out your fortune, had a monk bless us with holy water and white strings tied on our wrists, walked around the shrine 3 times behind her, with her explaining all of the religious meanings behind these things. It was an interesting insight into another lifestyle.
On to the Hmong hill tribe village, on the same road as Doi Suthep. Nice "museum" with displays showing daily life of the Hmong. Up a steep hill we walked through their market. Interesting - many of the items for sale were from Tibet and China. Not much locally produced - but I guess if you are going to have a market large enough to attract many people, you need a lot of stuff to sell!
From here, we went on to lunch at a local place. We were the only nonThais there. We had wanted to try kao soy, so Poon took us to her favorite place and insisted on treating. I suspect this is because it was so inexpensive they don't want Westerners to know just how cheap things are for locals. Not a problem; their cost of living is worlds away from ours.
Next was my mission to buy silver for my jewelry biz. To our surprise, while it was open, Silver Bell's store was empty (probably at the Tuscon show?) so we crossed the street to Sherry Silver and I bought some great pieces unlike anything I've seen in the US.
From here we went to Siam Celadon to check out both blue and green celadon, selecting some items of both colors. Then it was back to BA. That night we tuk tuked to the night market and ate dinner at a seafood market Poon had shown us earlier that day. Great food in an open, outdoor setting in the food court area. Not hot at night in CM, so sitting outside was quite comfortable.
Walked around the night market and tuk'd back to BA.
Next section - Golden Triangle! David and Claire ride an elephant...
Feb 21st, 2007, 07:04 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jed - Yes, it was just the 2 of us, and we planned nearly everything by reading posts on Fodors, plus a little help from guidebooks. I found email worked well everywhere in making hotel, air, and guide bookings.
FromDC - Yes we did go to Sonle Tap - fascinating! Claire
FromDC - Yes we did go to Sonle Tap - fascinating! Claire
Feb 22nd, 2007, 07:53 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The following morning our driver, arranged through Opus at BA, picked us up for our 2,500 bht taxi ride to Anantara Resort in Golden Triangle. The trip was about 4 hours, including 2 pit stops (clean Western toilets - a real relief) at places that also have markets. We ended up buying some local foods (have yet to open them so no idea what they are), as well as very inexpensive linen and cotton tops and long skirt. The town of Chiang Rai is actually fairly pretty, with a wide divider on the main road with lovely landscaping and even a few scenes made with carved wood.
Anantara just blew us away. Again, because of our Lux Hotel membership we were upgraded to a suite. This is the most outstanding resort we've ever stayed in. The grounds are lovely, with a very impressive courtyard entrance, leading to the lobby beautifully decorated in Thai style with flowers, stunning furniture and carvings. Words can't describe this adequately so I'll quit trying! On up to our room (by the way, here, as with HDLP, registration is accompanied by an exotic drink as you sit in a relaxed environment to sign the paperwork, which is already completed). In this suite, the bedroom is separated from living room by a rotating television cabinet - very clever. A large soaking tub separates the bathroom from the bedroom but has sliding doors to close it off if desired. And our ol' buddy from cruises past, the cute towel elephant, was sitting on the headboard of the soaking tub to greet us! Balcony runs the length of the suite, with a window seat along the front and a built-in table of carved silver in the center. View is of the pool with Myanmar and Laos in the background. Didn't want to leave this room, but were starving, so headed down to lunch in the Thai restaurant. Food here is good but expensive. Figured out our activities, set them up with the front desk, and confirmed our tour the following day with Toy (also referred to by other Fodorites as Doi). Walked around the grounds and then went to the pool for our first time just sitting and doing nothing on this whole trip! Drinks here expensive also - DC prices! Had dinner that night in the Italian restaurant at a table we had reserved earlier that day at the suggestion of the head waiter, who is a terrific guy. Fortunately, we sampled the house wine, which was beyond horrible, so picked a bottle of California that was fine (but at $55 and one of the cheapest on the list, gives you an idea of their wine prices). Following the chef's amuse buche, we had their table-side prepared Caesar salad and salmon; excellent meal. Because we don't eat a lot, as we do everywhere in the world, we split every dish and were surprised to find that they did this all over Thailand and Cambodia without being asked. While their portions aren't as big as American, we still found that 2 dishes plus rice was plenty of food.
Anyway, I digress. Next morning we met Toy in the lobby and headed off on the itinerary I had talked over with her. Started by heading to Myanmar, first stopping at a jewelry store that sells strands of stones to buy Burmese jade for my biz. No bargaining here, but prices very reasonable for lovely stones. Had stopped first at a tourist "factory" that sells jade for many times more than what I paid, and poor quality. We continued on the road and crossed the border into Myanmar, getting our temp visas at their outpost on the bridge. Toy found us a truck and we toured around a couple of hours for 200 bht. (Thai currency is accepted here.) First neighborhood was very poor, an ethnic group that is largely addicted to opium, if I understood Toy correctly. Next we visited Chinatown, much more prosperous and clean. Up to the temple where there is a small market, then down to the main market at the border. Returned to Thai side and our hotel van driver with much-welcome cold towels and drinks! From here to lunch nearby at a local restaurant with Toy. Total bill for 3 of us, including beers for David and me, was only 150 bht. As with Poon in Chiang Mai, we were the only non-Thais there. Great experience and terrific lunch.
From here we went to the Queen Mother's garden - quite lovely to see (and we were surprised to see red pointsettias) and well worth the drive there. Palace closed as Princess is due there later today. Next we drove to a hill tribe area. The first tribe was free to see - basically a walk down the hill alongside their market of the same old souvenir items. Then you pay 400 bht/person to continue down the hill and across a stream to arrive at the first of 2 more tribes, again selling wares (but some of these are made by them). This was the Akha, I believe, more affluent and harder working group. Last, at the bottom of the walk, was the Karen long-necked tribe. These girls and women were weaving cloth (we bought one scarf as it was being finished by a very shy but friendly teenager) and most wore the heavy gold neck rings. Toy explained that most of the hill tribe people used to have a much harder life, working in agriculture (opium also of course), but now, with tourism and everyone paying an entry fee, their life is much improved. Made me feel better about the voyeurist feeling of paying to look at people.
On to Golden Triangle now, to buy some things we needed at a market there, and happened upon a taxi service, where we arranged a taxi to take us from Anantara to the Chiang Rai airport for our return 2 days hence to BKK. Setis up for 1,200 bht - much cheaper than Anantara's charge for this. Watched the sunset over the water where the 3 countries meet - great end to a very long but terrific day. Toy is by far the best guide we've had, with English so good you forget she's not US. (Would rank Dara next, Charlie 3rd, and Poon last.)
Had dinner at the thai restaurant at Anantara - much more reasonably priced. Food is hot here, so we ask them to tone down the spice.
Next day was up early to feed the elephants at 7:15 after their morning bath. Quite a remarkable feeling to be with these huge but gentle animals. Went from there to gym then to breakfast then back to the elephant camp for our hour ride. We sat together in a basket on a wood plank as the elephant lumbered along, with the mahout riding on his neck. Not the most comfortable ride, but still an amazing experience, holding on for dear life as the elephant jerks along. Going downhill was a real test of trust in the mahout!
From here we went to the Opium Museum, a surprisingly modern, almost Disneylike, and fascinating tour through the history of opium production, use, wars, etc. Museum uses all types of media to present information; ddn't expect such a good production. Admission tickets were included in our room package.
Back to the hotel for lunch, then our spa appointments. Really needed that massage after the elephant ride! Lovely spa; massage again starts with foot massage. Prices not too bad considering the level of luxury here, but we only did 60 minutes here, instead of the 90 minutes we did everywhere else.
Dinner in the Thai restaurant here. Food really is great in this place.
Next morning we arose early to pack, then met the chef in the lobby for our cooking class. Started by driving to a nearby town to see a local market. Then to a temple for a snack (we had all eaten breakfast previously), then back to the hotel to the cooking school room. Really great setup - chef has a teaching area in front, with 4 separate stoves in the front. She made 3 dishes we had selected, which ingrediants ready for each but some cutting remaining to be done, with her showing techniques to slice, shave, and cut. We each had our own cookbook and took notes as she went, and then were turned over to our own stations to cook the dishes. She and her assistants floated around the room (there were 4 of us students) and helped us when necessary. Then we ate our lunch (or tried anyway - not understanding the process, we had selected 3 entrees!). Back to our rooms to grab our luggage, we were off in our taxi to the CR airport to fly back to BKK.
Last leg of the trip follows...
Anantara just blew us away. Again, because of our Lux Hotel membership we were upgraded to a suite. This is the most outstanding resort we've ever stayed in. The grounds are lovely, with a very impressive courtyard entrance, leading to the lobby beautifully decorated in Thai style with flowers, stunning furniture and carvings. Words can't describe this adequately so I'll quit trying! On up to our room (by the way, here, as with HDLP, registration is accompanied by an exotic drink as you sit in a relaxed environment to sign the paperwork, which is already completed). In this suite, the bedroom is separated from living room by a rotating television cabinet - very clever. A large soaking tub separates the bathroom from the bedroom but has sliding doors to close it off if desired. And our ol' buddy from cruises past, the cute towel elephant, was sitting on the headboard of the soaking tub to greet us! Balcony runs the length of the suite, with a window seat along the front and a built-in table of carved silver in the center. View is of the pool with Myanmar and Laos in the background. Didn't want to leave this room, but were starving, so headed down to lunch in the Thai restaurant. Food here is good but expensive. Figured out our activities, set them up with the front desk, and confirmed our tour the following day with Toy (also referred to by other Fodorites as Doi). Walked around the grounds and then went to the pool for our first time just sitting and doing nothing on this whole trip! Drinks here expensive also - DC prices! Had dinner that night in the Italian restaurant at a table we had reserved earlier that day at the suggestion of the head waiter, who is a terrific guy. Fortunately, we sampled the house wine, which was beyond horrible, so picked a bottle of California that was fine (but at $55 and one of the cheapest on the list, gives you an idea of their wine prices). Following the chef's amuse buche, we had their table-side prepared Caesar salad and salmon; excellent meal. Because we don't eat a lot, as we do everywhere in the world, we split every dish and were surprised to find that they did this all over Thailand and Cambodia without being asked. While their portions aren't as big as American, we still found that 2 dishes plus rice was plenty of food.
Anyway, I digress. Next morning we met Toy in the lobby and headed off on the itinerary I had talked over with her. Started by heading to Myanmar, first stopping at a jewelry store that sells strands of stones to buy Burmese jade for my biz. No bargaining here, but prices very reasonable for lovely stones. Had stopped first at a tourist "factory" that sells jade for many times more than what I paid, and poor quality. We continued on the road and crossed the border into Myanmar, getting our temp visas at their outpost on the bridge. Toy found us a truck and we toured around a couple of hours for 200 bht. (Thai currency is accepted here.) First neighborhood was very poor, an ethnic group that is largely addicted to opium, if I understood Toy correctly. Next we visited Chinatown, much more prosperous and clean. Up to the temple where there is a small market, then down to the main market at the border. Returned to Thai side and our hotel van driver with much-welcome cold towels and drinks! From here to lunch nearby at a local restaurant with Toy. Total bill for 3 of us, including beers for David and me, was only 150 bht. As with Poon in Chiang Mai, we were the only non-Thais there. Great experience and terrific lunch.
From here we went to the Queen Mother's garden - quite lovely to see (and we were surprised to see red pointsettias) and well worth the drive there. Palace closed as Princess is due there later today. Next we drove to a hill tribe area. The first tribe was free to see - basically a walk down the hill alongside their market of the same old souvenir items. Then you pay 400 bht/person to continue down the hill and across a stream to arrive at the first of 2 more tribes, again selling wares (but some of these are made by them). This was the Akha, I believe, more affluent and harder working group. Last, at the bottom of the walk, was the Karen long-necked tribe. These girls and women were weaving cloth (we bought one scarf as it was being finished by a very shy but friendly teenager) and most wore the heavy gold neck rings. Toy explained that most of the hill tribe people used to have a much harder life, working in agriculture (opium also of course), but now, with tourism and everyone paying an entry fee, their life is much improved. Made me feel better about the voyeurist feeling of paying to look at people.
On to Golden Triangle now, to buy some things we needed at a market there, and happened upon a taxi service, where we arranged a taxi to take us from Anantara to the Chiang Rai airport for our return 2 days hence to BKK. Setis up for 1,200 bht - much cheaper than Anantara's charge for this. Watched the sunset over the water where the 3 countries meet - great end to a very long but terrific day. Toy is by far the best guide we've had, with English so good you forget she's not US. (Would rank Dara next, Charlie 3rd, and Poon last.)
Had dinner at the thai restaurant at Anantara - much more reasonably priced. Food is hot here, so we ask them to tone down the spice.
Next day was up early to feed the elephants at 7:15 after their morning bath. Quite a remarkable feeling to be with these huge but gentle animals. Went from there to gym then to breakfast then back to the elephant camp for our hour ride. We sat together in a basket on a wood plank as the elephant lumbered along, with the mahout riding on his neck. Not the most comfortable ride, but still an amazing experience, holding on for dear life as the elephant jerks along. Going downhill was a real test of trust in the mahout!
From here we went to the Opium Museum, a surprisingly modern, almost Disneylike, and fascinating tour through the history of opium production, use, wars, etc. Museum uses all types of media to present information; ddn't expect such a good production. Admission tickets were included in our room package.
Back to the hotel for lunch, then our spa appointments. Really needed that massage after the elephant ride! Lovely spa; massage again starts with foot massage. Prices not too bad considering the level of luxury here, but we only did 60 minutes here, instead of the 90 minutes we did everywhere else.
Dinner in the Thai restaurant here. Food really is great in this place.
Next morning we arose early to pack, then met the chef in the lobby for our cooking class. Started by driving to a nearby town to see a local market. Then to a temple for a snack (we had all eaten breakfast previously), then back to the hotel to the cooking school room. Really great setup - chef has a teaching area in front, with 4 separate stoves in the front. She made 3 dishes we had selected, which ingrediants ready for each but some cutting remaining to be done, with her showing techniques to slice, shave, and cut. We each had our own cookbook and took notes as she went, and then were turned over to our own stations to cook the dishes. She and her assistants floated around the room (there were 4 of us students) and helped us when necessary. Then we ate our lunch (or tried anyway - not understanding the process, we had selected 3 entrees!). Back to our rooms to grab our luggage, we were off in our taxi to the CR airport to fly back to BKK.
Last leg of the trip follows...
Feb 22nd, 2007, 10:12 AM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so glad you liked the anantara....we really loved it too....the cooking class was a highlight for us .....too bad the princess was arriving as the "palace" is very interesting in its simplicity and the views are fantastic...
look forward to another segment...
look forward to another segment...
Feb 22nd, 2007, 10:39 AM
#16
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thrilled that you loved the Anantara and "Toy" (Doi to us - did she call herself "Toy"?) I've been recommending her to many people, but you're the first who has actually toured with her. Traveling with her was like hanging our with a friend. Glad she took you to a good place for your beads.
We suspected the jade in the "factory" was poor quality, but it was a good place to distract the nonshoppers in my family while I bought 18k earrings at a decent price.
Did you get to go to the CR market?
The General Manager of the Anantara came along to observe our cooking class and then conducted a little focus group with us. He emailed us to say that our group's suggestions were being implemented and it sounds like they were. Did you buy food at the market for the dish you prepared? (During our vist we just wandered around the market without an actual purpose - still fun, but would have been more interesting to puchase the ingredients we were going to use for our dishes.) Did you also stop for coffee with the locals?
We suspected the jade in the "factory" was poor quality, but it was a good place to distract the nonshoppers in my family while I bought 18k earrings at a decent price.
Did you get to go to the CR market?
The General Manager of the Anantara came along to observe our cooking class and then conducted a little focus group with us. He emailed us to say that our group's suggestions were being implemented and it sounds like they were. Did you buy food at the market for the dish you prepared? (During our vist we just wandered around the market without an actual purpose - still fun, but would have been more interesting to puchase the ingredients we were going to use for our dishes.) Did you also stop for coffee with the locals?
Feb 22nd, 2007, 12:36 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Crosscheck - Toy actually spelled her name for us because I called her Doi. Must be the same woman though - such a comfortable person, like an old friend. At the local market we didn't buy anything, but Un (chef) walked along and picked up strange and unusual items to show us. Some weird stuff - pig heads was the most bizarre and fish lying in a tray sans water (okay, no, she didn't pick up those). But showed us unusual eggplants, corn, things that were different from US or European versions. We did stop for coffee at a stand across the street from the market. David is still telling people about it. I swear, it was just evaporated milk they put in the coffee, but he loved it! We didn't get to the CR market - it was already 10 hours with Toy and we were beat! Getting off the property was difficult, so we didn't even try the other 2 nights.
Bob - didn't know you two had taken the class there also. Have you 2 used your class skills at home yet? We bought some ingrediants at Robinsons before we left Thailand, but I still need to seek out an Asian market for the rest.
Kathie - During the whole 2 weeks, about every 6 hours or so we'd call out Thank You, Kathie! (Gee, come to think of it, except after SJ jewelers - that was a solo...) Claire
Bob - didn't know you two had taken the class there also. Have you 2 used your class skills at home yet? We bought some ingrediants at Robinsons before we left Thailand, but I still need to seek out an Asian market for the rest.
Kathie - During the whole 2 weeks, about every 6 hours or so we'd call out Thank You, Kathie! (Gee, come to think of it, except after SJ jewelers - that was a solo...) Claire
Feb 22nd, 2007, 01:11 PM
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Last leg! Flew back into BKK, arriving about 5:00 - our flight was actually early. Found the taxi area - a brilliant escalator ramp that allows you to roll your luggage cart down the moving sidewalk/escalator/ramp to the level below arrivals. Lots of taxis waiting; we got a metered taxi and it was less than 400 bht to our hotel. Checked in on 26th floor before happy hour ended! We decided to walk back to Gallery Cafe for dinner, we had liked it so much. This was Valentine's Day and every restaurant (including Anantara) was doing special dinners. Gallery also had a set menu only, but allowed us to split an entire meal - too much food! And to add to the festivity, they had 2 male waiters dressed in stunning red gowns, full drag w/wigs and makeup, who were simply knockout gorgeous. Recognized one as the waiter or manager who had helped us our first night there. Figures the one night we didn't bring our camera. Not sure if this is a tradition on Valentine's Day, but have heard cross dressing or whatever is very accepted there. It was quite beautiful to see.
Next day was up early with Jerry, another of Tong's colleagues, for floating market tour. Traffic is a nightmare at 7:00 am - glad I don't live there! Nice ride out - amazed at the salt flats - quite an industry they've got there. Floating market was touristy, but Jerry swung us back through the residential area which was nice to see, on a canal that hooked us back up with the one where we started. Fortunately it wasn't too crowded. At the market in the parking lot, we found a silk bedspread and pillows different from everything else we've seen, so bargained hard and bought them. On our return, we had Jerry drop us at JT Outlet store. Had lunch there and checked out the merchandise. Not impressed with what they were selling - clothes didn't seem as upscale and purses weren't what I was trying to find. Bedspreads were very expensive -not much discount, so we were happy to have made our purchase at floating market.
Walked to sky train from there and took sky train back to the pier, and boat to the Oriental, to check on our clothes at OP. Happily my pieces at T Silk were fine. David's pants at Trend still weren't right and Tramps was closed then. Walked along New Road to bead shops and bought some unusual strands at Kabul Imports - nicest we found in about a 5-store group. Back to hotel. Just before happy hour, SJ's rep arrived with my jewelry (and quite a few others in our hotel); both rings were sized perfectly. That Lily knows what she's doing! Took a taxi back to OP for dinner at Tongue Thai. Driver tried the ol' you'll never get in without reservations, I have a better place to take you. Had him wait while we poked our heads inside - completely empty! What a lovely place. It's known for its hot food (thank you Fodorites!!) so we asked them to tone it down. Still pretty hot, but awfully good.
Next day was 8:00 with Charlie. We drove to the tailors, starting with the jacket guy, who wasn't in then. On to the pants guy. Amazing - first fitting and they were perfect - paid the guy and took them w/me. Next door to the skirt gal; not ready yet. So off the our 10:00 appointment at Prasart. We arrived very early -- 9:15 -- but Ben, Tong's friend who's a curator there, was ready for us. Great tour - fascinating place. Prasart is up there with Hearst and others who were life-long collectors. At the end, sitting with our tea in the gift shop, we met Mr. Prasart, who came in and sat down. He was fairly aggressive about pushing his book, which he offered to sign, but we declined. Way too big and heavy (but gorgeous book). Instead, bought a lovely covered tea cup from the collection he has designed. Prices not cheap here, but all proceeds help the foundation, which will continue his museum after he is gone.
From here back to the tailors. Jacket is perfect; paid that one and took it. Next to the skirt woman. The new design is great improvement and it looks very good with the jacket. Paid her and off we went. Had Charlie drop us at Robinson's Dept Store so we could have lunch and buy groceries to carry on the cooking legacy from Anantara! Taxi'd back to hotel and started to pack up. Then back to OP to get David's pants at both Tramps and Trend, and back to hotel. Our laundry arrived (2nd episode of this very strange employee standing there waiting for a tip - never seen this done so obnoxiously even in the US) in time to finish packing. Down to happy hour, checked out, and on to Thong Thai (?), the Thai restaurant in the hotel. So happy we ate there - a great restaurant. Inside is really lovely, with low tables and cushions surrounding each table square and a pit for your feet. But as there was a nice, cool breeze, we opted to sit outside for our last dinner in Thailand. Great ending to a fabulous trip!
PS - Bob, got brave reading one of your posts and declared everything, including the jewelry. Never have spent so much on a trip, so never had to worry about exceeding the max per person. But US Customs guy asked me where I bought the jewelry, called out to another agent Isn't Thai jewelry exempt? and didn't charge us a dime. Thanks for that tip! Arrived home virtuous (if poorer)! Claire
Next day was up early with Jerry, another of Tong's colleagues, for floating market tour. Traffic is a nightmare at 7:00 am - glad I don't live there! Nice ride out - amazed at the salt flats - quite an industry they've got there. Floating market was touristy, but Jerry swung us back through the residential area which was nice to see, on a canal that hooked us back up with the one where we started. Fortunately it wasn't too crowded. At the market in the parking lot, we found a silk bedspread and pillows different from everything else we've seen, so bargained hard and bought them. On our return, we had Jerry drop us at JT Outlet store. Had lunch there and checked out the merchandise. Not impressed with what they were selling - clothes didn't seem as upscale and purses weren't what I was trying to find. Bedspreads were very expensive -not much discount, so we were happy to have made our purchase at floating market.
Walked to sky train from there and took sky train back to the pier, and boat to the Oriental, to check on our clothes at OP. Happily my pieces at T Silk were fine. David's pants at Trend still weren't right and Tramps was closed then. Walked along New Road to bead shops and bought some unusual strands at Kabul Imports - nicest we found in about a 5-store group. Back to hotel. Just before happy hour, SJ's rep arrived with my jewelry (and quite a few others in our hotel); both rings were sized perfectly. That Lily knows what she's doing! Took a taxi back to OP for dinner at Tongue Thai. Driver tried the ol' you'll never get in without reservations, I have a better place to take you. Had him wait while we poked our heads inside - completely empty! What a lovely place. It's known for its hot food (thank you Fodorites!!) so we asked them to tone it down. Still pretty hot, but awfully good.
Next day was 8:00 with Charlie. We drove to the tailors, starting with the jacket guy, who wasn't in then. On to the pants guy. Amazing - first fitting and they were perfect - paid the guy and took them w/me. Next door to the skirt gal; not ready yet. So off the our 10:00 appointment at Prasart. We arrived very early -- 9:15 -- but Ben, Tong's friend who's a curator there, was ready for us. Great tour - fascinating place. Prasart is up there with Hearst and others who were life-long collectors. At the end, sitting with our tea in the gift shop, we met Mr. Prasart, who came in and sat down. He was fairly aggressive about pushing his book, which he offered to sign, but we declined. Way too big and heavy (but gorgeous book). Instead, bought a lovely covered tea cup from the collection he has designed. Prices not cheap here, but all proceeds help the foundation, which will continue his museum after he is gone.
From here back to the tailors. Jacket is perfect; paid that one and took it. Next to the skirt woman. The new design is great improvement and it looks very good with the jacket. Paid her and off we went. Had Charlie drop us at Robinson's Dept Store so we could have lunch and buy groceries to carry on the cooking legacy from Anantara! Taxi'd back to hotel and started to pack up. Then back to OP to get David's pants at both Tramps and Trend, and back to hotel. Our laundry arrived (2nd episode of this very strange employee standing there waiting for a tip - never seen this done so obnoxiously even in the US) in time to finish packing. Down to happy hour, checked out, and on to Thong Thai (?), the Thai restaurant in the hotel. So happy we ate there - a great restaurant. Inside is really lovely, with low tables and cushions surrounding each table square and a pit for your feet. But as there was a nice, cool breeze, we opted to sit outside for our last dinner in Thailand. Great ending to a fabulous trip!
PS - Bob, got brave reading one of your posts and declared everything, including the jewelry. Never have spent so much on a trip, so never had to worry about exceeding the max per person. But US Customs guy asked me where I bought the jewelry, called out to another agent Isn't Thai jewelry exempt? and didn't charge us a dime. Thanks for that tip! Arrived home virtuous (if poorer)! Claire
