Southern India here we come
Feb 12th, 2016, 02:24 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Traffic is crazy in Mumbai, but transportation by taxi is relatively inexpensive. We enjoyed taking in the chaos and observing the diversity between rich and poor and modern and old.
The Dhobi Ghat, which is mumbai's laundry is estimated to clean approximately half a million pieces of clothing per day. Clothes are beaten clean, hung to dry and pressed. The cleaning and hung clothes can be viewed from the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi railway station.
One can also get closer by going down the stairs and taking a tour. To see the cleaning, beat time is in the morning. To see the hanging garments a return visit in the afternoon is recommended. We enjoyed our morning visit and will try returning if time permits, in the afternoon.
From the Dhobi Ghats we picked up a taxi and headed to india's busiest train station, Chhatrapati Shivaji terminus, formerly known as the Victoria Terminus. This is one of mumbai's largest historical buildings and was quite impressive. Across the street was a municipal building built in the same Victorian Gothic architecture, also impressive.
Walking just north of the train station we headed for the famous Crawford market. Along the way was an array of smaller markets, interesting to walk around. The Crawford market, housed in a Victorian style building was a good place for photo opportunities and everything imaginable was sold here. We encountered tourists who fell for the trick that a guide was required to visit the market, but make no mistake...it is easy to walk around in ones own.
After we had our full of the market, we picked up a cab and returned to the Keneaeth Eliyahoo Synagogue to get a quick look inside. We were surprised to find it more ornate than we expected and learned that there are approximately 5,000 Jews remaining in India, of which approximately 4,500 exist in Mumbai.
Just down the street from the synagogue and behind the Prince of Wales museum, was an excellent arts and craft festival which takes place each February. We spent quite a bit of time wandering around and enjoying this exhibit before heading back to the room for my husband's late afternoon nap and my chance to catch up with emails and relax before dinner.
The Dhobi Ghat, which is mumbai's laundry is estimated to clean approximately half a million pieces of clothing per day. Clothes are beaten clean, hung to dry and pressed. The cleaning and hung clothes can be viewed from the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi railway station.
One can also get closer by going down the stairs and taking a tour. To see the cleaning, beat time is in the morning. To see the hanging garments a return visit in the afternoon is recommended. We enjoyed our morning visit and will try returning if time permits, in the afternoon.
From the Dhobi Ghats we picked up a taxi and headed to india's busiest train station, Chhatrapati Shivaji terminus, formerly known as the Victoria Terminus. This is one of mumbai's largest historical buildings and was quite impressive. Across the street was a municipal building built in the same Victorian Gothic architecture, also impressive.
Walking just north of the train station we headed for the famous Crawford market. Along the way was an array of smaller markets, interesting to walk around. The Crawford market, housed in a Victorian style building was a good place for photo opportunities and everything imaginable was sold here. We encountered tourists who fell for the trick that a guide was required to visit the market, but make no mistake...it is easy to walk around in ones own.
After we had our full of the market, we picked up a cab and returned to the Keneaeth Eliyahoo Synagogue to get a quick look inside. We were surprised to find it more ornate than we expected and learned that there are approximately 5,000 Jews remaining in India, of which approximately 4,500 exist in Mumbai.
Just down the street from the synagogue and behind the Prince of Wales museum, was an excellent arts and craft festival which takes place each February. We spent quite a bit of time wandering around and enjoying this exhibit before heading back to the room for my husband's late afternoon nap and my chance to catch up with emails and relax before dinner.
Feb 12th, 2016, 08:17 AM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the feedback. Again we stayed in for dinner and had a terrific Indian meal at the hotel. We learned that the southern style Indian food is very different from the north. When I asked if the delicious naan that I was accustomed to eating in the Rajasthan region was on the menu, I was told that this type of bread is not eaten in the south. My husband said there was none naan. Disappointed until I tried the equally delicious breads here (cannot remember the name). The paneer dish I ordered was also prepared totally differently, but still yummy and the chicken curry was mouth watering. I'm a happy camper. Off to bed now. Tomorrow we will tour the slum area with a guide.
Feb 12th, 2016, 06:19 PM
#28
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When we were at the Oberoi in New Delhi, for breakfast, the staff wanted us to try the southern india breakfast and brought out dishes totally different than northern india had..........it was so very delicious....... On our lower ganges cruise, the chef prepared southern indian dishes which were mouth watering which were so different than Rajasthan............My guess is you will have a very different food experience where you are and where you are going.
Can't wait to hear your experience...........thanks again for sharing..............
Can't wait to hear your experience...........thanks again for sharing..............
Feb 12th, 2016, 09:56 PM
#29
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great information and description, Dgunbug. Good news about your daughter in law!
LOL re your driver going through red lights down center of the road in both lanes. Welcome back to India!
I might have missed it, but...how long will you be in Southern India?
LOL re your driver going through red lights down center of the road in both lanes. Welcome back to India!
I might have missed it, but...how long will you be in Southern India?
Feb 13th, 2016, 02:37 AM
#30
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi calinurse - nice to see you and others reading along. We will have four weeks in southern India.
Today was rather eye opening. It is hard to fathom the level of poverty that some of the Indian people have to endure and the disparity between those who have and those who have not. At 10:30 am we met our guide at a cafe close to the dharavi slum which was depicted in the movie Slum Dog Millionaire. Our guide told us that the slum is home to some two million five hundred people. Many have left smaller villages, seeking work in the big city in order to survive. Often they leave families behind and they send a portion of their meager salaries to those in the villages. The slum area is made up of many small factories....many products are recycled - plastics, metals, leather, etc. Business owners do not live in the slum area, but they feed and provide electricity, insurance and housing to the workers who earn approx 200 rupees per day ($1,000 per year), of which they keep little for themselves. Children are provided with schooling.
The condition of the slums were appalling. Rats and mice scurry about. We witnessed one woman carrying a rat which was evidentially her pet. The people work long and difficult hours, but they smiled and seemed content. It is hard to imagine living in those conditions.
We left there and stopped at a hotel enroute to the Dhobi Ghat, to rehydrate and relax before returning to see the city's laundry being washed. This time we decided to go down the steps near the overview, in order to tour the area. The tour lasted approximately 30 minutes and was well worth the 300 rupees per person. Like the slum area, the people live in deplorable conditions and lead a difficult life. We were told that they begin work at 4:30 am and work until 11:00 pm. While the industry is different from the slum that we had visited, the living conditions were similar. The people were friendly and the children interested in saying hello. Children here are also provided with schooling and the people have their basic needs met earning only a meager wage.
Just beyond the slum areas are new and modern buildings. Not far is the beautiful marine drive where couple and families stroll. The disparity is amazing. India is a country of great contrasts with many religions and varying socioeconomic classes. We continue to enjoy our trip while trying to figure out how this society works.
After being out most of the day, we grabbed a taxi to return to the hotel to get out of the heat and recouperate. (I'm not finding the heat too bad, but my husband need his nap and I'm taking the time to write this report while the day is fresh in my memory.
We look forward to our evening meal and are thankful that we have it so good.
Today was rather eye opening. It is hard to fathom the level of poverty that some of the Indian people have to endure and the disparity between those who have and those who have not. At 10:30 am we met our guide at a cafe close to the dharavi slum which was depicted in the movie Slum Dog Millionaire. Our guide told us that the slum is home to some two million five hundred people. Many have left smaller villages, seeking work in the big city in order to survive. Often they leave families behind and they send a portion of their meager salaries to those in the villages. The slum area is made up of many small factories....many products are recycled - plastics, metals, leather, etc. Business owners do not live in the slum area, but they feed and provide electricity, insurance and housing to the workers who earn approx 200 rupees per day ($1,000 per year), of which they keep little for themselves. Children are provided with schooling.
The condition of the slums were appalling. Rats and mice scurry about. We witnessed one woman carrying a rat which was evidentially her pet. The people work long and difficult hours, but they smiled and seemed content. It is hard to imagine living in those conditions.
We left there and stopped at a hotel enroute to the Dhobi Ghat, to rehydrate and relax before returning to see the city's laundry being washed. This time we decided to go down the steps near the overview, in order to tour the area. The tour lasted approximately 30 minutes and was well worth the 300 rupees per person. Like the slum area, the people live in deplorable conditions and lead a difficult life. We were told that they begin work at 4:30 am and work until 11:00 pm. While the industry is different from the slum that we had visited, the living conditions were similar. The people were friendly and the children interested in saying hello. Children here are also provided with schooling and the people have their basic needs met earning only a meager wage.
Just beyond the slum areas are new and modern buildings. Not far is the beautiful marine drive where couple and families stroll. The disparity is amazing. India is a country of great contrasts with many religions and varying socioeconomic classes. We continue to enjoy our trip while trying to figure out how this society works.
After being out most of the day, we grabbed a taxi to return to the hotel to get out of the heat and recouperate. (I'm not finding the heat too bad, but my husband need his nap and I'm taking the time to write this report while the day is fresh in my memory.
We look forward to our evening meal and are thankful that we have it so good.
Feb 13th, 2016, 02:46 AM
#31
dgunbug,
Thank you so much for the ongoing report. You do a wonderful job of capturing your observations simply but beautifully and I can feel the stark contrasts that you are depicting.
I don't think "enjoying" can be the right word to use here, but I'm completely absorbed in your travel report and look forward to the rest.
Where will you be going after this? I was wondering if you posted your itinerary somewhere. I'm now beginning to think of a return trip to India, too, though will not have the time to spend that you have and would like to go to the south.
Thank you so much for the ongoing report. You do a wonderful job of capturing your observations simply but beautifully and I can feel the stark contrasts that you are depicting.
I don't think "enjoying" can be the right word to use here, but I'm completely absorbed in your travel report and look forward to the rest.
Where will you be going after this? I was wondering if you posted your itinerary somewhere. I'm now beginning to think of a return trip to India, too, though will not have the time to spend that you have and would like to go to the south.
Feb 13th, 2016, 04:05 PM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Progol - I have not yet posted my itinerary in full but will try to take the time soon. From here we take an overnight train to Goa, although we will not be staying in that region. We will have a hired car through Castle & King, pick us up at the train station to head for Hamp.
Last night's dinner at the Italian restaurant here at the hotel did not disappoint us. Again I had a mouth watering piece of local fish with delicious herbs and a mustard sauce on the side. My husband's pasta dish with mushrooms was equally satisfying.
Some observations we made during dinner -
1. Mumbai is a city spread out with no real central area. It is not a walking city and the roads are extremely congested. Most car rides anywhere take approximately an hour. Taxi's are very inexpensive and while the rides are lengthy, we've enjoyed just looking out the window to see the surrounding areas and activities going by. Taxis are everywhere and easy to hire. One must be sure that the meter will be used.
2. On our previous four week trip to India, we commented that we didn't really see the stereotypic head waggling that so many people talk about. That trip was spent in the Rajastan area and Varanasi. On this trip we see the head waggling everywhere.
3. The pollution is evident and the skyline is extremely hazy. Yesterday I happened upon an article saying that more deaths occur in India and China due to pollution than any other cause. We have not had a problem with the pollution though.
4. While we have five days in Mumbai, I think the highlights of the city can be seen in 3 days if one were to do it at a faster pace. We have been taking things easy as we know e have the time.
FromDC - what were your highlights, besides the food in the five days you spent in Mumbai? Is there anything we should not miss?
More later...off to begin our day.
Last night's dinner at the Italian restaurant here at the hotel did not disappoint us. Again I had a mouth watering piece of local fish with delicious herbs and a mustard sauce on the side. My husband's pasta dish with mushrooms was equally satisfying.
Some observations we made during dinner -
1. Mumbai is a city spread out with no real central area. It is not a walking city and the roads are extremely congested. Most car rides anywhere take approximately an hour. Taxi's are very inexpensive and while the rides are lengthy, we've enjoyed just looking out the window to see the surrounding areas and activities going by. Taxis are everywhere and easy to hire. One must be sure that the meter will be used.
2. On our previous four week trip to India, we commented that we didn't really see the stereotypic head waggling that so many people talk about. That trip was spent in the Rajastan area and Varanasi. On this trip we see the head waggling everywhere.
3. The pollution is evident and the skyline is extremely hazy. Yesterday I happened upon an article saying that more deaths occur in India and China due to pollution than any other cause. We have not had a problem with the pollution though.
4. While we have five days in Mumbai, I think the highlights of the city can be seen in 3 days if one were to do it at a faster pace. We have been taking things easy as we know e have the time.
FromDC - what were your highlights, besides the food in the five days you spent in Mumbai? Is there anything we should not miss?
More later...off to begin our day.
Feb 13th, 2016, 04:42 PM
#34
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hope this doesn't sound insensitive, as I do not intend it to be, but the contrasts among the different socioeconomic statuses that you are describing is fascinating.
We also experienced the head wagging everywhere we went in Sri Lanka, so perhaps it is a southern subcontinent thing.
We also experienced the head wagging everywhere we went in Sri Lanka, so perhaps it is a southern subcontinent thing.
Feb 13th, 2016, 05:48 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tripplanner - thank you for your comment. When I wrote about the head waggling, I originally noted that I found it fascinating and somewhat humorous, but took out that language as my husband said it was insensitive. IMO the differences that I have commented on are indeed fascinating, definitely sad to observe, but eye opening and significant. This is why we travel...to learn about other cultures and to hopefully learn as we go.
Feb 13th, 2016, 09:28 PM
#37
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're welcome dgunbug.
Dragon, for Westerners, we shake our heads up and down to signal "yes" and side to side to signal "no". South Asians seem to shake their heads in all directions when asked a yes or no question that it just seems they move their heads in a somewhat circular direction. You have to see it to understand what we mean.
Dragon, for Westerners, we shake our heads up and down to signal "yes" and side to side to signal "no". South Asians seem to shake their heads in all directions when asked a yes or no question that it just seems they move their heads in a somewhat circular direction. You have to see it to understand what we mean.
Feb 14th, 2016, 01:22 AM
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tripplanner - I don't believe the head waggling is done by the south Asians in general. We have only seen it in India. Am I mistaken?
Today we saw several faces of Mumbai. We started out early and headed to the Malabar Hill area beginning at the Hanging Garden. Perched on the top of the hill, on its western side, several lovely gardens provide a peaceful respit away from the chaos of the city. The housing surrounding and below the gardens is primarily expensive residential high rise condos.
Nearby (a long walk or short taxi ride) is the beautiful Adeshwar Jain Temple which we were able to view from the outer sanctum. The Jains were welcoming and allowed photography from just outside the doors of the temple. We considered it quite interesting to watch the people as they worshipped and a great photo opportunity.
In the opposite direction (just a short taxi ride away) is the Mani Bhavan house, residence of Mahatma Gandhi, well worth a visit to see the reference library, a photo exhibition of Gandhi's life, and some well preserved memorabilia.
Just a little farther south (by taxi) on Malabar Hill, is the Banganga Tank, one of the city’s holiest sites. It is here that pilgrims come to cleanse their souls by bathing in its mossy waters. One is transported in time from a modern 21st century Mumbai to another time. Reminiscent of the ghats at Varanasi, it was fascinating to watch the people pray and bathe in the waters here and again, it was a great photo opportunity.
Needing a drink and a rest, we headed by taxi along the famous Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach to the Oboroi Hotel which overlooks the windswept promenade. While the hotel is beautiful and the lobby comfortable, we did not see the value (3 x the price of our own hotel) in staying there. Leaving the hotel, we took the opportunity to stroll along the waterfront, enjoying the couples and families out for their Sunday outings.
It was a lovely day, but by this time we were exhausted and headed back to the room for our naps and computer time. By the way, the weather has been lovely (low 80's and sunny).
Today we saw several faces of Mumbai. We started out early and headed to the Malabar Hill area beginning at the Hanging Garden. Perched on the top of the hill, on its western side, several lovely gardens provide a peaceful respit away from the chaos of the city. The housing surrounding and below the gardens is primarily expensive residential high rise condos.
Nearby (a long walk or short taxi ride) is the beautiful Adeshwar Jain Temple which we were able to view from the outer sanctum. The Jains were welcoming and allowed photography from just outside the doors of the temple. We considered it quite interesting to watch the people as they worshipped and a great photo opportunity.
In the opposite direction (just a short taxi ride away) is the Mani Bhavan house, residence of Mahatma Gandhi, well worth a visit to see the reference library, a photo exhibition of Gandhi's life, and some well preserved memorabilia.
Just a little farther south (by taxi) on Malabar Hill, is the Banganga Tank, one of the city’s holiest sites. It is here that pilgrims come to cleanse their souls by bathing in its mossy waters. One is transported in time from a modern 21st century Mumbai to another time. Reminiscent of the ghats at Varanasi, it was fascinating to watch the people pray and bathe in the waters here and again, it was a great photo opportunity.
Needing a drink and a rest, we headed by taxi along the famous Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach to the Oboroi Hotel which overlooks the windswept promenade. While the hotel is beautiful and the lobby comfortable, we did not see the value (3 x the price of our own hotel) in staying there. Leaving the hotel, we took the opportunity to stroll along the waterfront, enjoying the couples and families out for their Sunday outings.
It was a lovely day, but by this time we were exhausted and headed back to the room for our naps and computer time. By the way, the weather has been lovely (low 80's and sunny).
Feb 14th, 2016, 02:26 AM
#39
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Really enjoying your TR, hope the rest of the trip is as fascinating for you as Mumbai. I was there on business 8 or 9 years ago, had only one "sightseeing" day driving through the city and doing lots of shopping (with a friend who lives there). Didn't even get to the caves, sorry I missed so much.
Feb 14th, 2016, 04:32 AM
#40
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dgunbug, I continue to be fascinated by your insights on Mumbai, so much that India is moving up my list. We experienced the head waggling all over Sri Lanka. And at least the few people I met from the Maldives during my travels had the same characteristic.
