Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Asia
Reload this Page >

Singapore/Phi Phi Report.

Search

Singapore/Phi Phi Report.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 9th, 2008, 08:32 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Singapore/Phi Phi Report.

We arrived on time at around 2.30pm. after a twelve hour flight from Heathrow. We flew Singapore Airlines,economy class. Very comfortable flight, having a row of four seats to just the two of us. In-flight service very good,food better than average,plentiful supply of free wine and a very good on-demand individual entertainment centre. Our first experience with this airline....excellent!! Our plane taxied and parked right next to one of the new A380 planes! First treat of the day. Singapore airport is such a pleasure to use. Spotlessly clean, bright and airy and just oh so stressfree. We were through all the formalities in next to no time and were soon at the taxi rank. Just a few minutes wait and we were heading off to the city centre. We were immediately struck by the clean fresh appearance of everything. Flowers, plants, shrubs and trees are everywhere. Even the central reservation of the freeway was a continual blanket of beautiful pink flowers. This city made an instant positive impression on us.

We soon arrived at our hotel for this part of our stay. The Intercontinental, chosen mainly for it's location. We booked a room on the club floor and though everything was fine, there was no 'wow factor' here and we will not be returning to this hotel. It just felt a little 'tired and jaded'.

However, its location was perfect and after a good nights sleep, we arose next day, bright and early and after a lovely breakfast, we were ready to see Singapore. Oh, one minor irritation, whilst having breakfast in the club lounge we were informed of the lounge 'dress code' at breakfast time. Our shorts and sandals were not acceptable and would we please wear shoes in future!!!!

Armed with our map and cameras we headed off for Little India.
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 9th, 2008, 09:06 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,751
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Keep it coming !

Singapore Airport seems to manage such efficiency, yet, like you say 'stress free'.
JamesA is offline  
Old Mar 16th, 2008, 02:50 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
From our base at the Intercontinental, we walked along Middle Road and turned right into Wateroo Street, and were instantly struck by the colourful sights, sounds and smells. First impression here was that it had more of a Chinese feel, particularly with all the red globes everywhere reminding us very much of what we had seen in China. It felt in fact like we were entering Chinatown.
But after crossing the canal at the top of the road, we entered what was clearly Little India proper.
Awash with scents and sights of the subcontinent, this is a microcosm of India where every imaginable Indian product can be found: trinkets, sarees, spices, sweetmeats, nose studs, flower garlands and anything else that an Indian household needs. Traces of Hinduism are found everywhere, from the elaborate temples to wall calendars with pictures of Hindu deities. On Sundays,which was the day we went, Indian locals and foreign workers flock to the streets to eat, chat, shop and worship. It really is a spectacular sight.
Hard though it is to walk through the crowds, this is a unique spectacle you should not miss.

Next, we headed for The Arab Quarter.

Kampong Glam, named after the Gelam tree which used to grow in the area, and was the historic seat of Malay royalty in Singapore. The Sultan Mosque was the first thing to catch our eye here. This is a huge, golden-domed structure, built in the 1920s, and it sits where Arab Street meets North Bridge Road. Remember, this is an Islamic area, so one must dress modestly when wandering through this area. That means no shorts or sleeveless tops, and always ask permission before entering a mosque especially if you are a woman..
Arab Street is where everyone congregates. It is full of shops selling synthetic carpets, jewellery, fabric, leather and bamboo baskets even tombstones (with a real stonemason in charge).
You can eat quite well here too, especially at Singapore's oldest restaurant, Sabar Menanti, which means “Wait patiently”, a good indicator of its popularity.

Sizable numbers of Indonesians and Arabs still live here, harking back to its beginning as a Malay village which it still resembles in many ways, with its 19th-century mosques, restaurants and shops selling prayer rugs, perfumes and silk.

Next it was head back for our hotel for a swim and some lunch. But during the course of our walk we came accross The DHL Balloon.

Climb on board Singapore's first helium balloon ride - a novel way to take in the wondrous sounds and beautiful cityscape of Singapore. The DHL Balloon - the world’s largest tethered helium balloon designed in France. It can take up to 29 passengers and drifts upwards to a height of 150m (40 storeys) to unfold a breath-taking 360 degree panoramic view of the city. For 7 - 10 minutes, you’ll be floating on a balcony with nothing under your feet except a bird’s eye view of the lion city.
Do it if you’re not afraid of heights and don’t forget to bring your cameras!
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 16th, 2008, 08:06 AM
  #4  
carolinetaylor
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
i'm heading to singapore in a couple of weeks and 'm really enjoying your report
 
Old Mar 16th, 2008, 09:17 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi, Leigh, it sounds like you enjoyed Singapore. I always love the walk through Little India! The DHL balloon is a new one one me. How much was it?
Kathie is offline  
Old Mar 16th, 2008, 10:32 AM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yes Kathie, we very much enjoyed Singapore. We have been there once before but only as a stopover. For some reason I never really saw it as a destination in its own right. How wrong I was!!
The DHL Balloon is S$23 for adults and S$13 for children. It operates from 11.00am till 9.30pm. We only used it during daylight but I imagine it will be spectacular after dark.

So back to our first full day in Singapore. After lunch, we headed for The Long Bar at Raffles Hotel. S$50 for two Singapore Slings.....but it's one of these things we had to do. Nut shells on the floor, a novel system of fans with leaves mechanically flapping to and fro. Very nice. Hope to upload a video of Lynda very unnaturally throwing her nut shells on the floor!!! We were able to wander around the grounds a little and soaked up the grandeur of this quaint old hotel.

Now we were starting to think about dinner and remembered that the cab driver who drove us to our hotel from the airport recommended a restaurant just around the corner from Intercontinental and he insisted that we should try a Singapore Steamboat!! We couldn't recall the name of the restaurant so just started wandering the streets around the hotel when we came accross a restaurant serving steamboats and with several locals waiting for a table. It looked good so we joined the line for a table.
For those who have not heard of this dish it is Chinese-style hotpot, eaten communally. Side dishes of raw meats(chicken, pork, beef, liver, minced balls), fish, squid(sotong) and vegetables are cooked by dipping into the hotpot which is kept simmering at a boiling temperature. The best part of the steamboat meal is savouring the soup after all the meats and vegetables have been cooked and eaten. It is at this time that the soup is at its richest and tastiest !
The restaurant was Chongqing Original Old Hotpot at 01-02 Chye Sing Building, 87 Beach Road.
Very much my No1 tip for eating out with the locals in Singapore. Just wonderful!!

And that was that, for our first full day in Singapore. After a nightcap, got tucked up in bed with our guidebooks and started to plan the next day. Cable-car to Sentosa Island and what else could we discover...........
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 17th, 2008, 02:11 AM
  #7  
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

There's another steamboat around the corner from Bugis Junction.

http://www.hungrygowhere.com/singapo...oal_steamboat/

http://www.fifo.sg/review/show/11
KMLoke is offline  
Old Mar 19th, 2008, 05:11 AM
  #8  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
After much debate, we decided that we would visit Clarke Quay this morning, Sentosa in the afternoon and the evening in Chinatown.
We took a cab from our hotel and asked to be dropped off at Clarke Quay. We were aware that this little area really comes to life at night but we were sure their would be enough to keep us occupied early in the day.
First thing to catch our eye was a little kiosk offering 'bumboat rides' up and down the river, so we purchased tickets for a 45minute trip and waited for the boat.
The Singapore River has seen 150 years of commercial activity and has been at the heart of the growth of an obscure fishing village to a great seaport and metropolis. A 45-minute ride on a low-slung bumboat enables you to appreciate this transformation whilst admiring
beautifully restored warehouses that now house chic quayside dining and entertainment spots and the contrasting skyscrapers of the Financial District. Then you can marvel at magnificent colonial buildings and grand old bridges before circling around the Merlion statue, Singapore's tourism icon and returning to Parliament House Landing Steps (near Raffles' Landing Site).
A very enjoyable experience.

After lunch we took a taxi to Mount Faber for the cable car station. Several different types of tickets are available depending on whether you wish to simply descend to Harbour Front, or continue on to Sentosa Island. You then have the choice of a variety of combination tickets for Sentosa depending on the number of attractions there you are likely to want to visit.
Lastly, you can decide whether to take a normal car, or one with a glass bottom. We chose a glass bottomed car...just great!!!
This little trip is a must during any visit to Singapore. Fabulous views and quite exciting. Pay a little extra for a glass bottomed car......so long as you have a head for heights!!!

The bi-cable, detachable-grip gondola lift system has three stations, namely The Jewel Box Station at Mount Faber, the HarbourFront Station at Harbourfront and the Sentosa Station at Sentosa. Two supporting towers are located between each pair of stations. This distance between The Jewel Box Station and the first tower is about 300 metres, from the first tower to the Harbourfront Station is 400 metres, from the Harbourfront Station to the second tower at 500 metres, and from the second tower to the Sentosa Station is 450 metres long.
The system currently consists of 81 cabins, suspended at least 60 metres above the sea, and about 61 m between each cabin (or one cabin per 15 to 21 seconds). Each cabin can carry a maximum of 6 adult passengers, while the whole system can support 1400 passengers per hour either way. Travelling at a speed of 4 metres per second, it takes about 4 minutes to get from Mount Faber to Jardine Steps, and another 5.5 minutes to continue on to Sentosa.
Including the short interval at Jardine Steps, however, it will take 12 minutes on a continuous ride from Mount Faber to Sentosa.

In addition, there are 27 red-coloured aircraft warning balls mounted on a telephone rope just above the cableway.

On arrival at Sentosa Station, we found the Carlsberg Sky Tower. You can't miss it!!
Day or night, views from the tower are both scenic and breathtaking as it gently revolves to a height of 131 metres above sea level. Spot Indonesia and Malaysia in the horizon, as you scan the skies for birds and planes streaking across the brilliant blue sky. Suitable for all ages, this seven-minute ride gives you certainly, one of the best views of Singapore.


Next we headed for the 'Images of Singapore Exhibition'.
This was on our list of 'must sees', and we were not disappointed. While Sentosa island is a lot about recreation and modern entertainment, its also about describing and showcasing Singapore's history and culture.
Images of Singapore starts with an audio visual presentation to introduce aspects of Singapore and its people. The show room is mocked up to look like an old style warehouse, and the waiting room is a mock office decorated in the 4 styles. It is worth spending some time just looking at the waiting area, and since the time between groups entering the video theatre is about 10minutes thats about the right amount of time.
From there you move to the main showcase area which starts its history of Singapore at the arrival of the British and Raffles. From there, it moves through the history and development of SIngapore and the culture of people who were present or moved to the area.
The exhibit barely touches on Singapore in World War 2 as most of this material has been moved to Fort Siloso for better context so this is an attraction for those who are not interested in the war and militaria. The focus is very much the people and their lives.

The video presentation section does break up the flow of visitors into the exhibit in a useful fashion. You can go through at your own pace, staying away from other groups if you wish.

Next we headed for Chinatown, looking for Sri Mariamman Temple. This is the oldest Hindu place of worship still in use on the island. It's famous for the annual Thimithi festival, during which devotees walk on hot coals. A very ornate and colourful building. We spent a couple of hours just wandering around soaking-up the atmosphere and finished off having dinner at The Singapore Heritage Restaurant.
We opened the meal with a round of vegetable spring rolls. the rolls were presented in a bowl that had a delicate flower as centerpiece. it was carved from a tomato! how creative! fried until they turned a golden brown, the rolls were served warm and crisp. it was the perfect start to what was to be a very colorful and tasty meal. Followed by Pearl Harbour Oyster Conjee, Mango Chicken Rice, Chilli Crab Sauce Spaghetti and some chicken curry with rice. Fabulous!! The restaurant certainly goes to great lengths in providing diners with a richly cultural and nostalgic dining experience. in keeping with the theme of singapore in the 1930s, you hear chinese oldies playing in the background rather than the usual jazz and classical music. Highly recommended.

TO-MORROW IT'S OFF TO PHI PHI!!!!!

Photos of the Singapore leg of this trip are here...
http://tinyurl.com/26zwrq
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 22nd, 2008, 11:45 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
In order to maximise our time we generally try to book early flights when we are transfering mid-trip. So we left Singapore for Phuket at 9.20am. Once again Changi airport was just amazing. No waiting at check-in, no waiting at passport control and no waiting at security. A pure delight! I wish every airport was like this. Arrived at Phuket around 10.00am (time zone change, one hour behind Singapore), swiftly through immigration and by 10.30 we were in our cab heading for Rasada Pier, where our speedboat was waiting to take us to Phi Phi. We were sipping our welcome drink at Holiday Inn before mid-day! The speedboat transfer is expensive but effectively we gained a half day so we consider it well worth it.
As regular visitors to this resort, we always book the same bungalow having found the one we like best.
We were met by Antonio the manager who said that as per our request he had reserved our favourite 108. However, he told us that they had just completed a prototype bungalow of an improved design and would we like to try that. We had seen this prototype being developed over our last couple of visits so we knew its location and also that it was considerably bigger. We gladly accepted the offer and were led to the new development 116. A bottle of Champagne waiting for us and the bungalow was filled with lovely fresh flowers. Full width patio doors led on to a split-level patio leading almost right into the sea. Wonderful!!!

First night we headed for Jasmins Restaurant for dinner on the beach. It was the birthday of one of the kids from the Sea Gypsy village so we were entertained by the kids playing games whilst we enjoyed fresh lobster.
I don't know if it's just the location that influences me, but the food here is always.....exquisite!
Then a lovely walk along the beach back to 116. Paddling in the sea, loveley moon-lit night with tens of squid fishing boats, with their very bright lights, all along the horizon.

After a few days just swimming, snorkeling, reading and generally relaxing, we decided that we would walk to Tonsai Bay.......
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 22nd, 2008, 01:18 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Agggh...you're killing me, Leigh.

I remember the east side of Phi Phi so fondly--and am quickly coming to the realization that, most likely, we've already seen the best beach in the world.

Everything else seems to pale in comparison, at least as far as I'm concerned.

Some day we'll get back...in the meantime, I'll live vicariously through you.
filmwill is offline  
Old Mar 22nd, 2008, 03:00 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It sounds just wonderful. I assume you have photos of the new Bungalow?
Kathie is offline  
Old Mar 22nd, 2008, 04:16 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Leigh-thanks for the report. Very helpful, we're going to Singapore for two days in June. Penalty waived.
Gpanda is offline  
Old Mar 22nd, 2008, 06:02 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
great pics and interesting report
rhkkmk is offline  
Old Mar 23rd, 2008, 01:28 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Kathie, yes, photos of the new bungalow on their way.
filmwill,I agree, this is surely where you find the best beaches in the world. Trouble is, after here, everywhere else is.......well....just not quite on a par!
Anyway, on with the report.


The walk to Tonsai Bay.

Having walked from Palm Beach to Phi Phi Island Village, many times on previous visits, we were aware that it is possible to walk all the way round to Tonsai Bay. Feeling full of energy, we decided that this time we would do the full walk. The path starts off following the coast and is quite easy going, particularly now that it is paved for around half the distance between Holiday Inn and Island Village. There is a nice viewpoint with a little shelter just as you approach Island Village. Then you pass through a small collection of huts where some locals live. Eventually you arrive at the new suspension bridge which takes you into Island Village and a couple of backpacker type places. Here you have a choice....cross the bridge or follow the the sign that says Tonsai Bay.
Onwards and upwards!
Off we went heading for Tonsai!!!! After ten minutes or so a signpost directed us right into the jungle....no proper path.... and a not well-used track. Alarm bells ringing now, but with Lynda still full of enthusiasm, I didn't dare suggest that maybe this was not such a good idea. After 45 minutes climbing upwards and through what was really quite dense jungle we stopped for a rest and to work out how much further,and maybe... should we go back!!
It soon became clear that it would be just as difficult climbing downwards and surely it wouldn't be much further, so we set off again. After a another half hour we started to hear the familiar sound of longtails. Much encouraged we trecked on and started to go downhill eventually reaching the sea........and then.......horror!!!!! We had emerged at the Loh Dalum side right at it's furthest out point, and Tonsai Village in the distance looked more than half a mile away.
Worse still.....the tide was in and there didn't appear to be any way of walking to the village.....other than climbing back up and finding another route down!
Fortunately, we came accross a little group of locals who guided us through to a pathway that led right in to the village. First stop a large cold beer. It reminded me of the film Ice Cold in Alex when they all sat at the bar looking at their cold glasses of beer.
Something of a nightmare at the time, but another great memory from Phi Phi.

Suitably refreshed and cooled down, we set off for a wander around the village. Re-construction is still evident but very definitely everything is in full swing once again. It's not really our cup of tea around this part but we always make at least one visit just to check on re-development and to buy some gifts for the grandchildren. I think it's fair to say that this part of Phi Phi is mainly geared towards younger folk!!! And of course, it can get very busy with daytrippers here.

Needless to say we didn't walk back to Holiday Inn, but hired a longtail. 400baht, I think....not expensive at all !!!!!!!
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 23rd, 2008, 02:42 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Enjoying your report. I believe the most memorable travel experiences are usually the 'mistakes'. You two sound adventuresome!

wintersp is offline  
Old Mar 23rd, 2008, 08:33 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi LTC,

I was considering a night or two on Phi Phi at the Holiday Inn. I have six nights for Phuket and/or Phi Phi before I have to be back in Bangkok. Would you suggest I go to Phi Phi for say, two nights?

It seems you have been there a few times, what is it about the place that you like? Is it difficult to get to from the Phuket airport for a first timer? I noticed they now have a 16 min flight possibility on the HI website, but no prices.

Any info you could share to help me make up my mind would help! I am feeling a little guilty though, spending almost half my trip at the JW Marriott or the HI when I should probably be doing something a little more culturally aware.

I can't help it is all I can think about is beach right now though as today we went over the 100 inch mark for snowfall this winter......
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Mar 23rd, 2008, 08:54 PM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well, while I was typing my post I got an email from the HI. Looks like the transportation from Phuket is 3500b R/T per person so that answers that part of my question. No mention of the flight price but if I have to ask, I probably don't want to pay it Sounds like you took the 14000 b private transfer?
HappyCheesehead is offline  
Old Mar 24th, 2008, 12:28 AM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Happy,yes, there is now a sea-plane transfer option run by a company called Destination Air. (link at the end) Fare is 4999b per person. We haven't used this service....yet, but I imagine the views will be amazing. We did speak with a couple on our recent visit who were transfering this way and they spoke of delays because of 'too rough seas'. So you must bear that in mind.

''Is it difficult to get to from the Phuket airport for a first timer?''
Well using the 14000b private transfer offered by HI, it is very easy. A driver will be waiting for you at the airport to take you to the pier, where your speedboat will be waiting. Airport to HI....less than 90 minutes. No wasted time.

As you have six nights, I would spend 4 at Phi Phi and 2 at Phuket. Actually,I would spend it all at Phi Phi,but as you haven't seen Phuket I understand that you want to spend some time there.

What do we like about Phi Phi....well....the wonderfuly warm Andaman Sea, with the clearest water I have ever seen, a beachfront bungalow just a few steps away from it. No cars, no roads, no TV, beautiful sunsets, beautiful sunrise, dinner on the beach, little coves to explore, often deserted. The hustle and bustle of Tonsai village (occassionally). So many many things. We believe that Laem Tong Bay (location of HI), really is 'A Little Piece of Paradise'!!!

Here's the link for seaplane

http://www.destinationair.com/
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 24th, 2008, 03:38 AM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
And just to finish this report...
March 7th.
Once again, we booked an early flight to go back to Singapore, in order to get the most out of the day. Our speedboat left Phi Phi at 6.30am. Our flight from Phuket was at 9.50. We arrived in Singapore around 12.30. This time losing an hour because of time zone change. Once again, Changi airport was such a pleasureable experience. For our last night we had booked 'Raffles The Plazza'. Can't find enough superlatives for this place. Just outstanding in every way. We booked a room on the club floor which was perfect. Located in the south tower and on the 22nd floor we had the most amazing views. Overlooking Suntec City, with the harbour over to the right and straight ahead....The Singapore flyer. Once we were able to pull ourselves away from the balcony we we headed out for some exploring on foot.

First port of call The Esplanade Theatres, known locally as The Durian. A very striking modern construction. It looks like...well a couple of Durian fruits!!! The Esplanade features two outdoor performing venues. They are the Waterfront Stage and the Stage@Powerhouse, located along the promenade. These venues stage regular free performances, meant to liven up the arts scene. Other than that, the building also features a large roof terrace with a panoramic view of Marina Bay and the city area. There are also courtyards and open spaces which can be used for various activities.
From here we wandered over the bridge to view that water-spouting, half-fish, half-lion Singapore icon The Merlion. The view is fantastic and no visitor leaves without taking a photo here.
We then wandered along to the Singapore Flyer.
I had purchased our tickets for this on line several weeks previously worrying that being a new attraction it might be fully booked. Not at all, there was a constant stream of visitors but not too crowded. This was a highlight of our visit to Singapore. A spectacular piece of engineering and views that are amazing. Very much our No1 tip when visiting this city. Do NOT miss the Singapore Flyer.
There is so much to see and do in the vicinity of The Flyer. Why not try the Kenko Fish Spa. Uncover your legs sit on a bench and dip your legs in to a large fish tank with hundreds of little fishes who will eat all the dead skin off your feet!!!!!


We rounded off the night with a wonderful meal at La Viva Spanish Bar & Tapas 30 Victoria Street, Fountain Court, CHIJMES.

Oh Yes, we will visit Singapore again.
LeighTravelClub is offline  
Old Mar 24th, 2008, 05:19 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
thanks for the tips
rhkkmk is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Your Privacy Choices -