Penelope

I am considering a new three-week tour by Wilderness Travel that begins in Almaty and ends in Ashkhabad, visting Urumqi, Kashgar, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. I caluclate that the total cost will be about $7500. Is it worth it in terms of the historical and scenic value of the region, as compared to, say, the historic sights of Inner China and Southeast Asia (most of which I have visited)? I have lots of other ideas for this money, but have always hankered to visit this part of the world. P

Peter N-H

Whether any trip is 'worth it' is so subjective that I wonder whether my opinion will really be of any use. I think if it were to be done overland this would be a fascinating trip, but as you don't mention cities in Kyrgyzstan I suppose the route on from Kashgar to Samarkand must be by air, and perhaps the route from Urumqi to Kashgar, too.<BR><BR>Almaty's main benefit is its obscurity--there is not a great deal to see, but it does feel a very long way from anywhere else. Anyone who has travelled in the former Soviet Union or its satellites will recognise the broad boulevards, neo-classical opera, theatre, and administrative buildings, vast town square, and crumbling apartments. I rather like Almaty, but I'm at a loss to say why.<BR><BR>Urumqi is a typically hideous Chinese city with a small Uighur quarter. Its booming prosperity is in great contrast to Almaty's gloom, but it has even less to do and see. Usually I would recommend visitors to Xinjiang coming from eastern China to avoid is and head straight for the towns of the north and south sides of the Taklamakan Desert.<BR><BR>Kashgar is a tiny medieval piece of Central Asia which has been quite well preserved until recently, but the arrival of a railway link from the east has accelerated the process of destruction, and you would be wise to see it before it finally disappears and becomes a mini-Urumqi. Of course, Sunday is the day to be there for the market, although if you want real authenticity you'd be better off at Khotan's market.<BR><BR>I'm not familiar with the Uzbek cities you mention, but they undoubtedly offer the cream of what Central Asia has to offer. Personally, I'd love to see them.<BR><BR>At the prices quoted you may be expecting luxury, but although there are decent attempts at modern comforts in Almaty, and there are a couple of foreign joint-ventures in Urumqi, elsewhere expect accommodation to be fairly basic, or at least unimaginative. You could do this trip independently for a fraction of the price, but the visas can be a bit of a bother.<BR><BR>Although I've travelled independently in the CIS, the border crossings can be sticky, and police and border controls tiresome, and for those with limited time a tour is a good idea.<BR><BR>I'd do it.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html<BR>

Penelope

Peter: Thank you for your comments, which have an aire of authority that I appreciate. The tour does plan air travel from Almaty to Urumqi and, then, from Urumqi to Kashgar. From there, it is a road route via Issyk Kul to Biskek, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. Last, the group flies from near Khiva to Ashkhabad. I have reread recently such books as Thubron 's Lost Heart of Asia and get a negative image, but, guessing that he and the others may be jaded, I'm seeking other opinions. P

Peter N-H

The fact that the section from Kashgar on is by land would lead me to encourage you to go--no lack of scenic value and there's a sense of being in the back of beyond's back of beyond, where the car is gradually being abandoned again in favour of the horse.<BR><BR>I've travelled the route from Kashgar to Bishkek independently, but this requires a bit of nerve to argue your way out of China and past the depredations of the Kyrgyz customs without parting with 'fines' (you're lucky you won't be dealing with the border controls on the Almaty to Urumqi railway, too), and then risk negotiating for a ride in a private car to get on from the border. Even so, the Tian Shan scenery make all this worthwhile, and you're travelling on the route of a cart track constructed by the Russians in 1905 and 1906 at a time when it was widely assumed that Xinjiang would become part of Russian territory, and it was practically run by them anyway.<BR><BR>Once over the Tian Shan, make sure your trip turns off to see the Tash Rabat caravansarai, and if in jeeps persuade your drivers to divert east via a magnificent winding jeep track to Son-Kul, a lake 3020m up. En route you'll see camels and other livestock, and the yurts of nomads and semi-nomads. Pull off to visit one at random and you'll be sure of a pleasant welcome (take a gift of some kind). The jeep track winds back down to the route to Issyk-kul.<BR><BR>Bishkek is like a smaller Almaty. Only a few minutes' walk from the vast Stalinist central square you'll find low-rise wooden housing with chickens in the garden.<BR><BR>You'll find this trip entirely different in flavour from anything else you've done in Asia, and while I know nothing of the company you mention, and the cost is certainly severe, this route will be full of interest, and is certainly one it would be tiresome to arrange for yourself.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html<BR>

Roland

Traveled from Beigin to Kasgar on the old Marco Polo Silk route with the Smithonion group in 1985. Visited with the Kassacks up out of Urumqi. Great trip. Got stranded in Aksu which had no tourist accomidations. Fun!